Vegetable growing » Tomatoes
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Kira Stoletova
Gardeners often wonder what to spray tomatoes with after rain. Is it necessary to treat tomato bushes after rainfall and what is best to use? Let's look at how to carry out this procedure.
Spraying tomatoes after rain
Damage to rainwater
In rainy and damp weather, a fungus develops on tomato bushes. The presence of drip-liquid moisture on the leaves contributes to the spread of late blight spores, which affects tomato bushes. Frequent temperature changes and increased humidity only provoke the spread of infection.
Tatyana Orlova (candidate of agricultural sciences):
Tomato has a high requirement for soil moisture. With a lack of water, it stops growing and sheds buds and ovaries. On the other hand, the tomato suffers greatly from high air humidity (optimal 45-50%). At high air humidity, flowers are poorly pollinated and also fall off.
Young seedlings are most vulnerable during the dive period. Plants in the greenhouse are also susceptible to infection. It is important to process tomatoes in a timely manner to prevent fungal infections and prevent its proliferation.
How to spray tomatoes with copper sulfate?
The roots of the plant are damaged.
Gardeners often have to deal with such a phenomenon in tomatoes as leaves curling into a tube. This confuses some inexperienced farmers, because it seems that every effort was made for the normal development of the plant, but that was not the case. More on the reasons and methods of struggle.
NV-101 is an excellent product that increases productivity by generally improving the physiological state of plants and increasing their resistance to disease.
Often, due to temperature inconsistencies, flowers fall off without being pollinated. Comfortable temperature for tomatoes is +28-29°C during the day and +13-21°C at night. If the seedlings are planted in a greenhouse, the maximum permissible temperature is +36°C. If the tomatoes stood for at least an hour at a temperature of +40°C, this is almost 100% likely to result in pollen sterilization and flowers falling off. If you do not allow them to “rest” at night, that is, do not provide a temperature below +20°C, this will also have a detrimental effect on the potential harvest. And no amount of spraying or fertilizing in this case will save the situation.
If you are not sure that you can choose the right concentration, it is better to buy other, less toxic drugs (so-called fungicidal) in specialized stores.
Zolotynka
dissolve a bar of soap and a bag of copper sulfate).
or kefir. Phytophthora fungus cannot cope with stronger ones
bolshoyvopros.ru
One tablespoon of fertilizer is dissolved in 20 liters of water and watered once a week.
How to spray bushes
Dairy
Gardeners recommend using improvised means in the fight against fungal diseases, namely dairy products:
- Serum. The components of the whey composition feed and strengthen the tomato stems. Lactic acid stops the spread of fungal spores. Take 1 liter of serum per 1 liter of cold water and spray the bushes every day for 2 weeks.
- Kefir. The solution (10 liters of water, 1 liter of curdled milk) is sprayed every 7 days before harvesting.
- Milk with iodine. To combat the fungus, take 10 drops of iodine per half liter of milk, and spray the resulting mixture on tomatoes for 3 days. For prevention, it is recommended to treat with the mixture every 15 days (1 liter of milk and 15 drops of iodine per 8-9 liters of water).
Potassium permangantsovka
A mixture of potassium permanganate and garlic has an excellent preventive effect. For 2 glasses of warm or hot water, take 200 g of chopped garlic, mix thoroughly and leave for 24 hours in a dark place. The prepared mixture is filtered.
The indicated proportion is calculated for 2 buckets of water. Tomato bushes are sprayed onto dry seedlings after rain. After 14 days, the procedure is repeated.
Ash solution
Spraying the bushes with an ash solution helps destroy the fungus and prevent infection. To prepare an antifungal mixture, 20 g of ash is dissolved in 1 liter of warm water. After 48 hours, treat the bushes and the soil underneath them.
The components of wood ash serve to strengthen the immunity of tomatoes and stimulate their growth. Tomatoes and the soil around them are dusted with ash well sifted through a sieve.
Bordeaux mixture
It is important to be careful when spraying
Bordeaux mixture is a well-known remedy for the prevention and treatment of fungal diseases. The preparation contains lime, copper sulfate and water. It is quite toxic, and if the proportions are not observed, you can destroy the entire bed.
Tatyana Orlova (candidate of agricultural sciences):
A sign that the concentration of Bordeaux mixture solution is higher than permissible during processing is the appearance of a brown net and border on the leaves. At the same time, the leaves become stiff and curl inward.
For tomatoes, it is recommended to use a minimum concentration of 1%, no more. To prepare the mixture, take 50 g of copper sulfate and the same amount of slaked lime per 5 liters of warm water. The mixture must not be prepared in metal containers. When spraying, it is recommended to use protective gloves and a respirator.
Yeast
Using yeast is a very simple and effective method to use: 50 g of yeast is melted in 5 liters of water (warm). The resulting mixture is used to treat the bushes when the first signs of the disease appear.
Yeast is also used as a nutritional supplement. For each liter of water take 10 g of yeast, 50 g of chicken manure, 50 g of ash and 1 tsp. Sahara. Tomatoes are treated with the solution once a week.
Boric acid
Boric acid is a drug with an antiseptic effect. It is used to treat tomatoes by finely spraying them on the bushes during flowering and fruiting. The acid is dissolved in hot water: 1 g of the drug for each liter.
Boric acid is used not only for the prevention of fungal diseases, but also as a high-quality fertilizer. In the same proportions, fertilize the soil under the bush once every 2 weeks.
Antibacterial drugs
You can also spray tomatoes after prolonged rains with antibacterial drugs that are low-hazard for humans and animals:
- "Gamair" is a biological bactericide, a therapeutic and prophylactic agent against fungal diseases both on plants and in the soil.
- "Glyokladin" is an environmentally friendly drug for disinfection and restoration of soil microflora.
- “Fitosporin” is a microbiological preparation for treating both plants and soil for the prevention of fungal diseases.
- "Alirin-B" is a biological agent based on natural bacteria that suppresses the development of fungal spores and has a good therapeutic effect.
Fungicides
The drug can be applied to wet bushes
Fungicides are very effective - preparations of chemical (Thanos, Ridomil Gold, Quadris, Strobi) or biological (Fitosporin, Acrobat, Ecosil, Difenoconazole) origin that help delay development infections.
One of the most effective fungicides in the fight against fungus is Strobi. A single use of the drug per season is sufficient. It is important to use it before fruit appears as it is toxic. The advantage is the ability to use it in wet and rainy weather on wet bushes.
The fungicide "Quadris" helps stop the spread of infection, but does not completely kill it. Ridomil Gold protects tomatoes both inside and outside.
Trichopolum
One of the most effective remedies remains Trichopolum, a non-toxic bactericide with an antifungal effect. Solution proportion: 1 tablet of the drug is dissolved in 1 liter of water.
It is recommended to add liquid soap or a little milk to the resulting solution (25 g of additive for each liter of water). You need to be extremely careful when using the drug, since it is one of the antiprotozoal medications.
Fungal infections can adapt to the composition of chemicals, so it is not recommended to treat them with one product for a long time.
How to protect at different times of the year
Tomatoes are particularly vulnerable among their relatives, not to mention other vegetable crops. A systematic approach is required to protect them.
All necessary activities can be included in the following calendar plan:
- In August-September, it is necessary to clear the planned plots of land from perennial weeds, which reduce disease resistance and tomato yields by 10-15%. Dicotyledons and cereal perennials can be destroyed using the herbicide Hurricane Forte 500SL.
- Digging the soil in October-November to a depth of 25 cm will improve soil freezing, which, in turn, will destroy some of the spores and larvae that have settled for the winter.
- Treating tomato seeds with potassium permanganate is a reliable method against fungi living on them.
- Before planting tomatoes in open ground, the roots are soaked for 2 hours in a solution of the Aktara insecticidal agent to protect them from pests - May beetle larvae, wireworms, aphids.
- Treating tomatoes throughout the entire growth period with fungicidal preparations (Ridomil Gold, Quadris) will protect against the appearance of numerous fungal diseases. The use of tank mixtures, which, in addition to the above-mentioned products, include microfertilizers and “Karate Zeon 050”, will protect the fruits from damage by cutworms. Spraying tomatoes should be stopped 2 weeks before the fruits ripen.
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Treatment of late blight
Late blight (late blight) is a dangerous disease (fungus) that appears after prolonged rains. It first comes from the leaves, and then the whole plant, including the fruits. The first signs of late blight on tomatoes are the appearance and rapid spread of rusty spots on the leaves. In rainy and damp weather, a white coating similar to fluff becomes noticeable on the bottom of infected leaves.
The fruits become covered with gray spots and become deformed, and in the later stages they begin to rot. Under no circumstances should infected fruits be eaten. The leaves turn black and curl. The fungal disease affects the bushes and spreads very quickly. After infection, the plant dies within 1.5-2 weeks.
After the first signs of infection appear, immediately after rain, infected leaves and fruits are immediately removed from the tomato bushes, which are subsequently burned. It is also recommended to collect the fruits unripe. Before use, tomatoes must be thoroughly washed and disinfected in hot water. In this way, the harvest can be partially saved.
Tatyana Orlova (candidate of agricultural sciences):
To disinfect green tomato fruits removed from plants infected with late blight, they are immersed in hot water at a temperature of 60-65 degrees for a few seconds. After this, immediately dry the fruits by wiping them with a paper towel.
You can save the harvest by spraying the bushes with table salt (100 g of powder for every liter of water). The solution is very strong, it is recommended to use it in cases where the plant is affected by more than 50%. The product will burn not only infected leaves, but also healthy ones, and stop infection of the fruits.
Video
The fight against diseases and pests of vegetable crops begins with prevention. In order to protect bushes and crops from late blight, use modern chemicals and time-tested folk remedies. If you follow the rules of agricultural technology, you will reap a bountiful harvest of tomatoes. Timely protection of the site from pests is the key to successful gardening. From the video below you will learn what time of day is best to spray tomatoes and how to properly process the plant.
Prevention of fungal development
There are basic rules for disease prevention:
- avoid proximity to potatoes (risk of late blight infection);
- change the planting site every 2-3 seasons;
- remove the lower leaves that touch the ground;
- plant bushes at a distance of 20-30 cm for early varieties and 30-40 cm for late varieties;
- choose soil with a high nitrogen content;
- avoid getting liquid on the leaves when watering the bushes;
- choose early varieties (the fruiting period of which begins before the appearance of late blight);
- treat seeds with fungicides.
Tatyana Orlova (candidate of agricultural sciences):
Tomatoes should not be watered by sprinkling - spray them with a hose. The optimal methods of watering are flooding the beds with a calm flow of water and drip irrigation. The so-called “dirty watering,” when water with eroded soil particles falls on the leaves, is a direct path to the appearance of fungal infections.
Pruning greenhouse plants
Tomato bushes that grow in a greenhouse require pruning of leaves in the same way as varieties in open ground. Determining the trimming time is easy. Look through all the bushes. If they have already grown enough and the green mass is intertwined with each other, it’s time. It is important to remember that if the process of foliage infection has already begun, there is no point in postponing the procedure. The sooner you tear off all the diseased leaves, the greater the chance that the bulk will remain healthy. You need to remove all dry, blackened leaves with brown spots, side shoots, outer foliage, and leaves that are already lying on the ground. Also thin out the stems that appear on the sides of the bush. There will be no fruit on them, but they take away strength.
Timing for pruning leaves
There is no exact time frame for trimming unnecessary foliage. Experienced gardeners disagree. Some say that you need to pick off the foliage immediately after the bush blooms, others recommend doing this only after the fruits have formed. If you don't know what decision to make, do the following. Divide the beds into two parts and trim the foliage using these two methods. At the end of the season, compare the results and use the method constantly. The exact timing of leaf pruning cannot be determined due to the variety. Tomatoes that ripen earlier will be processed earlier. It would be more correct to wait until the buds and fruits form, and only then begin processing each bush. If the bush is well developed, then the fruit cluster should be at a height of about 30 cm, and there should be no foliage from the root to the cluster. Only then will the fruits receive enough light, and the beneficial substances will go from the roots directly to the fruits. If you live in a cool region, then along with the leaves it is necessary to remove the upper growth point so that the plant does not waste energy on forming new fruit-bearing branches. Then by the time cold weather sets in, all the tomatoes will be fully ripe.
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Advice from experienced gardeners
Experienced gardeners pay special attention to removing stepchildren. No need to break out the branch. It is best to carefully trim it, stepping back a few centimeters from the main trunk and leaving a small stump. This way the wound area will dry out faster due to the smaller cut diameter. By the way, cutting the stepsons disrupts the stem tissue, which can lead to severe disease of the bush after suffering stress. The optimal length for cutting stepsons is about 6 centimeters. It is also recommended to monitor the appearance of yellow and dry leaves. If you notice, remove it immediately, because the tomato will direct a large amount of nutrition to the dead leaf in order to reanimate it. And since this is useless, the person must remove the unnecessary sheet. If you have the opportunity and time, treat the cut area with a disinfectant solution to ensure that the plant is protected from germs. For the same purpose, it is necessary to treat the tool blade after pruning each bush to prevent the spread of diseases. Tomatoes are very delicate, susceptible plants, so safety precautions must be fully observed if you are aiming to obtain a high-quality harvest.
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Garden treatment in May depending on the region
The optimal time for treating a garden against diseases depends on the air temperature. In our country, these indicators can vary greatly by region, and this is worth taking into account. It is better to determine the appropriate time for spraying based on weather conditions, but there are approximate processing dates for different parts of Russia.
Middle lane
The first treatment of the garden here is carried out from the end of March to the first ten days of April.
But in May there are treatments at the budding stage and after flowering.
Siberia
In Siberia, treating a garden in May against diseases and pests involves spraying at the “green cone” and “budding” stages.
IMPORTANT ! Each year, the indicated dates may shift, and in matters of garden processing you should always rely on the readings of the street thermometer. When during the day it shows +5 C°, and at night the air temperature does not drop below 2 C°, then spraying can begin.
Southern regions
In this region of Russia, treatment is carried out according to the scheme after flowering.