Yellowing of seedlings and adult pepper and eggplant bushes can be caused by a number of interrelated reasons. These plants are very sensitive to air temperature, the amount of moisture and the content of nutrients in the soil. How to balance these factors?
There is no sadder sight than the yellowing foliage of peppers and eggplants. Moreover, a change in leaf color can occur in just a few days. How to act in such an “extreme” situation, when there is not much time left before the harvest? Is it possible to save your favorite plantings and what needs to be done for this?
Causes of yellowing of pepper and eggplant leaves
Yellowing of leaves is a common occurrence that is associated with one or more factors
Among the green parts of peppers and eggplants, it is the leaves that most often turn yellow. This happens for a number of reasons:
- lack of moisture – peppers and eggplants are moisture-loving crops, so they need abundant watering (every day on hot days);
- excess moisture - oddly enough, these crops also cannot tolerate stagnant water. If there is enough moisture, and at the same time daytime temperatures are low and cool at night, then the root system rots, which leads to yellowing of the above-ground part;
- lack of nitrogen is the most important and common macronutrient, however, with its deficiency, the plant weakens and loses its healthy appearance;
- lack of other macro- and microelements. Deficiency of calcium, potassium, magnesium, sulfur, phosphorus and other substances also manifests itself in the form of yellowing of individual parts or the entire leaf;
- exposure to toxins - if crop rotation is not observed, young pepper and eggplant bushes poison the toxins of their predecessor plants. At best, this leads to yellowing of the seedlings, and at worst, to the death of the plants;
- diseases and pests - the main danger is late blight, viral mosaic, spotting and spider mites;
- interweaving of roots and competition between plants . Too dense and thickened plantings lead to plants fighting among themselves for “resources.”
Yellowing of seedlings: causes, how to treat
In most regions of Russia, heat-loving crops are grown at home through seedlings. And it is at this stage that the problem of yellowing leaves often appears. There are various reasons:
- poor quality seeds. The shoots are weak, frail, with pale leaves. Seedlings are stunted and get sick;
- incorrectly selected soil mixture for peppers;
- lack of lighting. Peppers sown in January and February especially often suffer from lack of light. At this time, the daylight hours are short, which affects the condition of the plants;
- cold window sills on which there are boxes or cups with seedlings;
- unsuccessful picking of peppers;
- overwatering of seedlings;
- watering seedlings with cold water;
- lack of moisture;
- temperature changes;
- dry air;
- pests (spider mites, aphids). They often switch to peppers from seedlings of other crops or from indoor plants;
- infections.
Having identified the cause, they immediately take action, otherwise the seedlings will die. What to do:
- When there is a lack of nitrogen, the plant gives a signal by yellowing the lower leaves. Seedlings are fed with urea or complex fertilizer. A good result is obtained by planting Azogran (one granule) under each seedling.
- If the cotyledons turn yellow and the pepper already has 2-3 true leaves, there is no reason to worry. The cotyledons have done their job, they are no longer needed. But if there are no real leaves, and a couple of cotyledons have turned yellow, the watering regime is reconsidered. This is usually associated with watering with cold water. Therefore, the soil is slightly dried, and from now on the seedlings are irrigated only with warm, settled water.
- If the soil becomes too moist, stop watering for several days. Gently loosen the soil and drain excess water (pallets, drainage). If there is a suspicion that the roots have rotted, spill the soil in the boxes with a solution of Fitosporin.
- For seedlings sown early, additional lighting is provided. There should be at least 12 hours of daylight. Use phytolamps, LED or fluorescent lamps.
- Containers with seedlings on window sills are placed on stands (wooden grates, foam sheets). In severe cold weather, it is better to remove the peppers from the windows for a while, but do not forget about high-quality lighting.
- On hot days, seedlings are shaded from direct sunlight. Place cardboard and foil and cover the glass with thick cloth.
- Having discovered pests on the bushes, the seedlings are sprayed with Fitoverm and Vermitek.
- Bell pepper seedlings often suffer from a fungal infection - blackleg. At the first symptoms - yellowing of the leaves, thinning of the lower part of the stem, it is necessary to add calcined river sand to the seedlings and water the soil with a pink solution of potassium permanganate.
- To avoid problems after picking, it is advisable to immediately sow the peppers in separate pots. If common seed boxes are used, replanting is done no later than the first couple of true leaves appear.
- Before planting in a permanent place, the seedlings must be hardened off, gradually accustoming them to new conditions. To increase immunity, bushes are sprayed with Zircon and Epin.
On a note! It is possible to feed such seedlings with ready-made fertilizer, for example, Kemira, Aquadon Micro or Agricola 3.
Why do the leaves of peppers and eggplants turn yellow in a greenhouse?
When planting vegetables in greenhouse soil, you will also need to add a complex of microelements and fertilizers
Yellowing of leaves is often observed in plants even in such a seemingly protected place as a greenhouse. It is possible to understand what led to yellowing only by assessing the totality of parameters. And here's what you should pay attention to:
- humidity level in a greenhouse or greenhouse . Peppers and eggplants are quite delicate crops that react sharply to lower humidity levels. The optimal humidity level for peppers is 70-75%, and for eggplants – 65-70%;
- soil composition . If the required amount of fertilizer is not available in the greenhouse soil, then peppers and eggplants actively signal this by changing color. Most often they lack iron, which in turn leads to the development of chlorosis;
- temperature regime . It is believed that plants in a greenhouse are more protected from temperature changes. However, poor-quality assembly of the structure, early planting of seedlings, frequent ventilation and a greenhouse opened at night can lead to yellowing of the foliage. Even short-term frosts can damage the fragile structure of the leaves;
- the presence of fungal or bacterial infections . More often than others, greenhouse plants are affected by black leg, fusarium, verticillium, septoria, gray mold, late blight, etc. The first symptom of almost all of these diseases is yellowing of the leaves;
- parasite invasion . Greenhouse crops are no less susceptible to pest attacks than those growing in open ground. Aphids, nematodes, thrips, slugs, mole crickets - this is just an approximate list of those who want to feast on fresh greens.
Peppers turning yellow in the garden
The reason may be too early planting or sudden cold weather. Most often, a native of the tropics suffers due to drops in temperature at night.
If, after moving to open ground, the weather is sunny and windless, tender young greens can get heat burns.
The situation is more likely in the southern regions, but even in the middle zone, if an inexperienced gardener does not harden off, the seedlings will suffer due to the unusual abundance of sunlight on the first clear day.
In open ground, bushes are accessible to pathogens and pests. An attack is more likely if peppers or other nightshades - tomatoes, eggplants, potatoes - grew at the planting site in previous years.
Late blight manifests itself as yellow spots on the leaves that gradually turn brown. The leaves die and fall off, and wet rot forms at the bottom of the stem.
With tobacco mosaic virus, the surface of the leaves is dotted with small yellow spots and swellings appear. The affected plate curls, acquiring a needle-like shape.
