Tchaikovsky's Cucumber F1: main violin in a symphony by Rijk Zwaan


From Holland with warm greetings

In 2009, she introduced a new hybrid cucumber variety, Kibria, which captivated vegetable growers with its excellent early harvest. But soon the hybrid also showed a negative feature: it quickly depleted the soil, especially in greenhouses. After the first good harvest, the cucumber, without constant care, lost its ability to bear fruit: the greens were crushed, the growing season slowed down and the plant died. Because of this, his popularity quickly fell.

Four years later, the company’s breeders presented an improved version of Kibria - the Tchaikovsky F1 variety, which began the “symphony” of cucumber varieties from Rijk Zwaan. Like its predecessor, the new variety has excellent resistance to powdery mildew, mosaic virus, and cladosporiosis. All this, together with a short ripening period, made it possible to use the cucumber in arid regions with hot summers.

Plants of this variety do not require pollination

The main problem with growing a rich harvest of cucumbers in the southern regions is the high probability of drought due to the small amount of rain, the bulk of which falls in April, May, early June, then in August, September, and early October. Therefore, in the south, varieties used in the scheme: spring - summer, summer - autumn, which begin to bear fruit in a short time, are highly valued.

Very quickly, the Tchaikovsky F1 variety became a sales leader, winning respect from gardeners who strive to get a quick harvest by growing cucumbers in greenhouses. Cucumber does not require pollination and allows you to grow the crop in early spring, when insects have not yet come out of hibernation.

With such yields, it is not difficult to earn the respect of gardeners

Reviews

Anastasia, 45 years old: “I like to experiment, so every year I plant new varieties. I planted the Tchaikovsky variety last year. The plants pleased with their high yield and pleasant taste. I recommend".

Igor, 51 years old: “A neighbor treated me to a cucumber. Since then, for me, the Tchaikovsky variety has been one of the best varieties of cucumbers. The bushes brought a generous harvest with normal care. We eat these cucumbers every summer with the whole family and make preparations for the winter.”

Have you grown a hybrid called Tchaikovsky? Is it worth growing this variety? Please leave reviews so that gardeners can see all the pros and cons of this variety of vegetable crop. Thank you.

Description of the variety Tchaikovsky F1

The yield of this variety is up to 50 tons of cucumbers per hectare. From planting to receiving the first greens, only 40–45 days pass. It is grown in greenhouses and in open ground by trellis or horizontal method. Ties up to three cucumbers in one bunch. Good formation of green mass along with active regeneration allows the plant to quickly recover from shock and recover from illness. It is formed into one stem, the side branches are small, up to 30–40 cm. Plants are planted 30–35 cm apart.

Tchaikovsky F1 belongs to the parthenocarpic varieties, which, unlike those pollinated by bees, are characterized by the friendly formation of ovaries and the ability to bear fruit until late autumn.

The fruits are up to 15 cm long and weigh 50–60 grams and have a uniform dark green color. The surface is densely covered with tubercles with spines. Therefore, you should wear gloves when harvesting. The pulp is fleshy, without bitterness, crispy, and has a pleasant taste characteristic of a cucumber.

Video: greenhouse cucumber plantation Tchaikovsky F1

Table: advantages and disadvantages of the variety

AdvantagesFlaws
Parthenocarpic variety: does not require insects for pollination.If pollinated by insects, the cucumber loses its shape and grows crooked.
Early stages of ripening and development of the bush.Requires increased feeding.
High yield.There is a danger that the greens will outgrow.
Heat-loving, tolerates heat well.Not suitable for growing on the ground in regions with cool climates.
Resistant to diseases characteristic of hot climates.The variety is not resistant to diseases caused by sudden changes in weather.
Pleasant taste, small size cucumber.The gherkins are covered in thorny thorns.
Well stored and transported.

Characteristics and description

Parthenocarpic, early ripening variety. From the day the sprouts appear until the start of fruiting, about 40 days pass. The stems of the plant are both compact and powerful: they can easily support the weight of the fruit. The leaf blades on the central cucumber vine are medium in size. The type of ovary is bunched: at least 3 cucumbers are formed at one point.

Description of cucumbers:

  • The fruits are cylindrical in shape.
  • The tubercles, which moderately cover the surface, have short, sharp spines.
  • The color of cucumbers is dark green with yellow splashes at the stalk.
  • The flesh is pleasantly sweet and crispy. There is no genetic bitterness.
  • The length of ripe cucumbers reaches 10–12 cm, and the weight varies from 60 to 80 g.

The main advantage, without which the characteristic of a variety loses some of its attractiveness, is high yield. With proper care, 50 tons of cucumbers can be harvested from 1 hectare. There is one drawback - the inability to collect seeds yourself.

The variety is tolerant of temperature changes. In case of late planting, the hybrid can bear fruit before the arrival of cold weather. The hybrid is resistant to most cucumber diseases. Resistance to downy mildew, white rot, and anthracnose is average.

In the south, the variety can be grown in garden beds, and in the central and northern parts of the country in film shelters.

Seed preparation

When buying seeds, pay attention to the presence of appropriate markings on the packaging indicating pre-planting preparation: as a rule, processed seeds are colored. If there is no marking and the seeds are of normal color, then it would be useful to soak them in a nutrient and disinfectant solution prepared from a bioactivator (Vermisol, Azotofit, Epin, Zircon) and a disinfectant, for example, potassium permanganate. This will not only improve germination, but also protect against root rot and fusarium.

Before planting, it would be a good idea to soak cucumber seeds in a nutrient and disinfectant solution.

Table: bioactivators and seed exposure time

Drug nameDilution rateAging period
Vermisol1:5, diluted with warm water12 hours
Epin1 ml per 2 liters of water24 hours
Azotophyte1 teaspoon per 500 ml of water, 2 tablespoons sugar, leave for 2 hours1.5–2 hours, dry for 4 to 8 hours
Zircon1–2 drops per 300 ml of water8–18 hours

History of selection

Tchaikovsky F1 cucumbers are the result of the work of Dutch breeders of the agricultural company Rijk Zwaan Zaadteelt En Zaadhandel BV The variety was bred in 2013. Tchaikovsky F1 is an improved variant of the Kibriya F1 variety, which is also of Dutch origin . The latter did not fully meet the expectations of gardeners, which was the reason for the development of a new type of cucumber.

Cucumbers of the Tchaikovsky F1 variety - a hybrid brought from the Netherlands

The main difference is the ability not to reduce yield volumes under intense sun exposure and high air temperatures (the Tchaikovsky F1 variety is better adapted to such conditions). Gardeners also note that the fruiting of the new hybrid is abundant not only at the beginning, but throughout the entire period of development.

Preparing the soil and planting site

Before planting, complex fertilizer is applied to the soil and dug well, leveling the area with a rake. It is best to add potassium and nitrogen fertilizers before planting, since potassium and nitrogen salts are washed out with water over the winter. Ammonium nitrate should be added in the fall, despite the fact that potassium and nitrogen are washed out, the phosphorus contained in it will not disappear anywhere and will remain in the soil, forming poorly soluble phosphates that are well absorbed by plants.

The cucumber is capricious. He does not like direct sunlight, shaded beds, too dense soil, or drafts. Try to plant the plantation in areas where shade and sun alternate with each other. The optimal bed is one where there is sun in the morning, and in the afternoon it is covered by shadow from trees or tall plants (corn, sunflowers).

As they develop, the bushes grow, so Tchaikovsky F1 cucumbers are recommended to be grown on trellises

Soil requirements

The thermophilic nature of the cucumber requires its cultivation in light partial shade. In direct sunlight, its leaves quickly lose moisture. A place under short trees or tall thickets is considered successful. To ensure such conditions, you can plant sunflowers or corn next to the cucumber beds.

The soil for planting cucumbers should be loamy so that it retains moisture for a long time and has a loose consistency to provide the root system of the plants with enough water.

Boarding pattern and time

For quick germination, the crop should be planted in soil warmed to +16 °C. If this condition is met, the first shoots will appear 5–6 days after sowing. The optimal planting time is mid-to-late May. At this time, the soil is already well warmed up (+20–25 °C), frequent rains occur, and the threat of frost disappears.

Remember: when the temperature drops below +8 degrees, cucumber plants die, so in such a case, take care of reliable shelter.

For a late harvest, which is planned to be harvested before mid-October, and if planted in a greenhouse, then (depending on the region) until late November, the seeds are planted in July. To get an early harvest, seeds begin to be sown for seedlings in early or mid-March. Seeds are sown in cups or cassettes, one per cell. The cucumber is a great individualist and does not tolerate close proximity.

Three tablespoons of wood ash and one spoon of nitroamophoska are added to a bucket of prepared soil, consisting in equal parts of forest or turf soil and peat, mixing everything thoroughly. Cups are filled with soil mixture and cucumber seeds are planted in it.

Phases of seedling development - table

PhaseExternal signsWhat to do
GerminationA spine appears.The plant is transplanted into cups filled with soil mixture.
ShootsA plant with two cotyledon leaves appears above the soil mixture.When watering, do not overwater the seedlings, protect them from drafts, and provide sufficient light.
Real leafA real one appears between the cotyledon leaves.When watering, do not overwater the seedlings, protect them from drafts, and provide sufficient light.
Third and fourth sheetThe cotyledon leaves slowly die off, and true leaves actively grow on the stem.You can start feeding the seedlings.
Landing in the groundThe real leaves of the seedlings have become stronger and increased in volume.The seedlings are transplanted into the ground, deepening the top leaves, the buds and ovaries are pre-torn off.

The first true leaf appeared

The distance between seedlings should not exceed 35–40 cm, between rows 1–2 m. Planting density per 1 sq. m - 4–6 bushes.

Seedlings grown in peat pots are planted together with the container. The cucumber is removed from the plastic cup along with a lump of earth so as not to damage the roots. The cup can be cut and removed by unwinding it in a spiral.

Video: forming cucumber bushes and adjusting lighting

Irrigation regime

Despite the plant’s moisture-loving nature, it should not be filled with too much water. For small bushes, 1 bucket of water per 1 square meter is enough. m. But after the vines grow more than a meter in length, this amount should fall on each bush. Only heated water should be used.

In case of heavy rainfall, cucumbers should not be watered. It may even be necessary to drain excess water through dug grooves.

It is recommended to pour water into the depressions located next to the beds so as not to erode the root system. In a greenhouse environment, you can use a sprinkler to wet the entire plant. But in open ground, small drops of water on cucumber leaves can cause sunburn. The optimal time for watering is morning or evening. After which the earth should be loosened. This should also be done after rainfall.

Watering, fertilizing

Tchaikovsky F1 creates a significant load on the soil, and therefore requires balanced nutrition as it grows. When planting, wood ash and humus are added to each hole in equal quantities, usually no more than one scoop. The plant immediately receives a good boost for the proportional development of the root system and green mass.

When applying fertilizer, monitor the condition of the plant. The best indicator is the appearance of the leaves, vines and stem.

To prevent micronutrient deficiency, carry out complex feedings every 10–14 days.

Table: complex feeding of cucumbers

Type of feedingPreparationApplication method
Chicken droppingsFor 10 liters of water, 50 g of chicken manure. After stirring well, leave for 10 days to ferment. Root feeding.
ManureFor 10 liters of water 1 kg of rotted manure.Root feeding.
Wood ash1 tablespoon of ash is diluted in 10 liters of water. Scoop ash at the root, before watering, once a season. Root feeding.
Humate fertilizersDiluted depending on the concentration according to the manufacturer's instructions.Root and foliar feeding.
Chelated fertilizersDiluted according to the instructions on the package.Foliar feeding.

Remember: by applying fertilizers, you compensate for the lack of microelements in the soil. It is very important not to overfeed the cucumber so that “fatification” does not begin. The first signs of an excess of microelements are a change in the appearance of the leaves, stems, and the cessation of the formation of ovaries.

Signs of deficiency and excess of microelements - table

Microelementa lack ofFertilizingOversupplyCauses and methods of control
Iron and copperChlorosis, the plant turns yellow, the leaves are small, growth slows down, the color crumbles.Foliar feeding with chelated fertilizers, watering with infusion of chicken manure.Brown spots appear on the leaves, young leaves suffer from interveinal chlorosis.Occurs when there is an excess of treatment with copper and iron sulfate. Stop processing.
ManganeseThe leaves are dark green in color, gradually curl, and tubercles form on the surface.Foliar feeding with chelated fertilizers.Interveinal chlorosis and brown spots appear on older leaves.Occurs on acidified soil. Add lime, dolomite flour, chalk powder, and mulch.
PotassiumA yellow border forms along the edge of the leaf, and the greens take on a pear-like shape.Feed foliarly or at the root, with humate fertilizers, chelates, compost infusion, and ash.The leaves turn white, the internodes lengthen, the plant withers and dies.Stop feeding the plant and watering.
NitrogenThe stem becomes thinner, the cucumber turns pale, the upper leaves turn yellow, the lower leaves fade, gradually drying up, and the tips of the greens become pointed.Water with infusion of chicken manure and mullein. Foliar feeding with chelated fertilizers or humates. The leaves and stem turn dark green and the plant stops bearing fruit.Stop fertilizing and watering. Sawdust is buried under the root, mixed well with the soil.
MagnesiumCucumber leaves fade, become brittle, the lower ones become covered with yellow spots, the green color is only on the veins.Foliar feeding with chelated fertilizers.Leaves darken and curl. Due to the death of the roots, the cucumber dies. Add chalk, lime, dolomite flour and stop watering.
BorThe ovaries and side shoots die, the flowers fall off.Foliar feeding with chelated fertilizers.The edge of the leaf dies and the leaves become dome-shaped.Stop feeding.
PhosphorusThe lower leaves turn yellow and die, the ovaries and flowers fall off.Foliar feeding with chelates. When watering, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are added to the water. The leaves turn yellow and fall off.Application of potash fertilizers that do not contain phosphorus.
SulfurThe leaves change color, the leaf blade becomes rugged.Foliar feeding with chelated fertilizers.The leaf becomes covered with scaly growths and becomes coarser. The leaf color changes to grayish-brown. Stop feeding.
ZincLeaves of varying sizes with uneven yellowing.Foliar feeding with chelated fertilizers, root feeding with zinc sulfate.Discoloration of the leaf near the veins.Stop feeding.

The main signs of mineral starvation in cucumber

Cucumber is a moisture-loving plant; in the hot season, for normal growth, especially during the fruiting period, an adult bush may need up to 3 liters of water per day. Watering is carried out in the evening, after the temperature drops. It is most rational to use a drip irrigation system; this makes it possible to evenly distribute moisture, control its quantity, and facilitate root feeding of the plant. To retain moisture during hot weather, be sure to mulch. The average volume of water for each adult plant is 2 liters of water.

Cucumber is a moisture-loving plant; Tchaikovsky F1, like a true European, prefers progressive drip irrigation

When watering, make sure that the water does not flood the stems of the plant, expose the roots, or form potholes. Excess moisture will lead to fattening, the development of root rot, fungal diseases on the leaves and stems, wilting and death of the plant.

Seedling care

Watering cucumbers is carried out once a week . If plants are planted in open ground, then they need to be watered more often in hot weather and less often in rainy weather. If it rains too often, then the cucumbers do not need to be watered, and the plants must be protected from waterlogging. To do this, it is worth making drainage grooves.

At the initial stage, one bucket of water is enough for one square meter of area. When the cucumbers grow, pour one bucket under each bush. It is better to water by sprinkling or along furrows, but not under the roots . In a greenhouse, you can water the entire plant, but if it is in open ground, then the water should not get on its leaves, because. in sunny weather this can lead to burns on them. Watering is carried out in the morning or evening hours. The water temperature should not be lower than + 10ºС . It is advisable to loosen the soil after each watering or after rain.

In a greenhouse, it is better to grow cucumbers on a vertical trellis. The top shoot, which can grow to the very top of the trellis, is pinched. Pinching is also carried out over the second or third leaf after the last fruit. Pinch the plant above the fourth or fifth leaf. To avoid damaging the lashes, the cucumbers are tied with a double slip knot .

Table: feeding and fertilizing cucumbers in open ground

Feeding timeAmount of fertilizer appliedWhat nutrients will be added to the soil?
autumn, after harvesta bucket of compost, a bucket of rotted sawdust and a glass of wood ashpotassium, phosphorus, nitrogen
spring, before plantingper 1 square meter add 10 g of nitrogen, 12 g of potassium, 12 g of phosphoruspotassium, phosphorus, nitrogen
after the appearance of the first two true leaves1 tablespoon of urea is diluted in 10 liters of water, you can use chicken droppings or mullein instead of ureanitrogen
in 15 dayshalf a liter of mullein is diluted in 10 liters of waternitrogen
during the flowering of cucumbers2 cups of wood ash and 10–15 g of urea are diluted in 10 liters of waterpotassium
during fruiting of cucumbers (carried out three times at equal intervals)half a liter of liquid chicken manure and 2 cups of wood ash are diluted in one bucket of waterpotassium and nitrogen

Table: feeding and fertilizer in the greenhouse

Feeding timeAmount of fertilizer appliedWhat nutrients will be added to the soil?
autumn, after harvestper 1 square meter - a bucket of manure, humus or compost + 500–600 g of dolomite flour or fluff limepotassium, phosphorus, nitrogen
spring, a week before planting the crop20–30 g ammonium nitrate, 20 g potassium sulfate and 20–30 g superphosphatepotassium, phosphorus, nitrogen
after three or four true leaves appear15–20 g of potassium sulfate or potassium chloride, 10–15 g of ammonium nitrate and 20–25 g of double superphosphate are diluted in 10 liters of water. This solution is enough for 10–15 plants potassium, phosphorus, nitrogen
in 15 daysDissolve a tablespoon of nitrophoska and half a liter of liquid mullein in 10 liters of water. A glass of ash or 50 g of potassium sulfate, half a gram of boric acid and 0.3 g of manganese sulfate are also added. For 1 square meter - 3 liters of solution potassium, nitrogen
after 15 days, another feeding (carried out three times at equal intervals)1–2 tablespoons of liquid mullein are diluted in 10 liters of water. Water at the rate of 7–8 liters per square meter nitrogen

Tchaikovsky is quite picky about feeding

Diseases and pests

The variety is resistant to cucumber mosaic virus, brown spot, powdery mildew and white rot. But, nevertheless, he is susceptible to other diseases. The most dangerous is considered to be downy mildew or downy mildew, which occurs with sudden changes in temperature and frequent precipitation. In addition to diseases, plantings can be seriously damaged by pests that attack stems, roots, green mass, buds and ovaries.

Photo gallery: the main enemies of cucumber beds


Anthracnose disfigured cucumber greens


A colony of melon aphids occupied a cucumber leaf


This leaf is affected by downy mildew


The reverse side of a leaf affected by peronosporosis


Slugs are dangerous pests of vegetable crops, including cucumbers.


New slugs will soon appear from this clutch

There are many methods of pest and disease control, both chemical and traditional, which are used in different ways. Folk remedies are used to prevent disease, very rarely for treatment. Chemical remedies can be used for both prevention and treatment of cucumber.

Table: traditional methods of preventing diseases and pests

Disease, pestSignsMethods of treatment and prevention
Downy mildewThe leaves become covered with yellow spots, a gray coating forms below with black dots of fungal spores, and the plant dries out.Spray solutions:
  • urea is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10;
  • 3 liters of sour milk per 10 liters of water;
  • Add 10 drops of iodine to 1 liter of milk and dilute it in 10 liters of water;
  • Bordeaux mixture: 100 g of copper sulfate is mixed with 100 g of lime and diluted in 10 liters of water.
AnthracnoseBrown spots with a depressed surface on leaves and fruits.
  • Spray with Bordeaux mixture.
  • The affected areas are sprinkled with charcoal, lime or chalk powder.
Cucumber mosaic virusThe leaves become covered with yellow spots, curl, the fruits are disfigured by necrotic spots and stripes, and the tip of the greenery dies.
  • prophylaxis with a solution of 1.5% low-fat milk. Dilute 1 liter of milk into 10 liters of water and spray;
  • be sure to combat aphids and other pests capable of carrying the virus;
  • affected plants are destroyed.
White rotThe fruits and stems become covered with whitish “threads” of mold, and the plant rots.
  • prepare a solution for spraying: 2 g of copper sulfate is diluted in 10 liters of water, adding 10 g of urea;
  • the affected areas are sprinkled with ash.
AphidThe leaves of the plant are curled, on the inner sides there are colonies of black or green insects.
  • Infuse 400 g of shag in a bucket of water for two days, add 80 g of soap;
  • Pour hot (70 °C) water over the onion peel (half a bucket), leave for a day, then filter. When used, dilute in a ratio of 1:2;
  • Grind 50 g of red chilli pepper, pour boiling water (1 l), leave for 2 hours, bring to 10 l with water;
  • 200 g of ash are diluted in 10 liters of water, adding 50 g of planed laundry soap.
SlugsSilvery marks appear on leaves, stems and soil. The surface of the leaf becomes covered with holes, and the stems eaten at the root fall off. The soil around the bush is sprinkled with lime, ash or salt.
Spider miteThe leaves are entangled in a cobweb, under which a colony of mites develops.Spray with a solution of ash and laundry soap.
ThripsThey gnaw the leaves and suck out the juices.No.

Unlike folk remedies, chemical means of protection must be alternated and not used twice in a row, in extreme cases - more than three. This is due to the adaptation of fungal pathogens to them and the formation of resistant strains of fungi. In addition, modern means not only prevent diseases, but also treat them.

Treatment with chemical protective agents - table

Plant development phaseDisease, pestA drug
3–4 sheetDowny mildewQuadris or Previkur Energy
6–8 sheetDowny mildew, aphids, spider mites6 g of Topaz, 25 g of Ridomil Gold package Vertimek 018 EC are diluted in 5 liters of water or according to the instructions the drugs Alyet and Luna
10–12 sheetDowny mildewRidomil Gold or Previkur Energy
Budding and floweringDowny mildewQuadris (6 ml per 5 liters of water) or Infinito (12 ml per 10 liters of water)
Beginning of fruitingAphids, downy mildew, anthracnoseInfinito 12 ml + Confidor 1 per 10 liters of water, Quadris 6 ml + Actellik 12 ml per 5 liters
FruitingDowny mildew, anthracnoseInfinito 12 ml per 10 liters of water or Quadris 6 ml per 5 liters of water

It should be remembered that there is a danger of poisoning with chemicals that are classified as enteric-contact toxic substances. Therefore, be sure to adhere to the waiting period from processing to harvest indicated on the packaging.

Features of cultivation and care

To obtain seedlings, seeds are planted in cassettes or cups filled with loose substrate. Cucumbers are grown in seedlings in the northern regions. To use cucumbers for planting in open ground, they are planted after the soil has warmed up to +15 ⁰C. Since most Dutch companies disinfect planting material before sale, they do not carry out pre-sowing preparation.

Unlike tomatoes and peppers, it is better to choose semi-shaded areas for planting cucumbers. If there is such a place in the garden, corn or sunflowers are planted around the cucumber bed.

To provide the cucumbers with the required amount of macro- and microelements, organic or mineral fertilizers are applied during digging in the fall. If the bed was not fertilized before winter, humus or a complex mixture is poured into the furrows before planting in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations.

Cucumbers are planted according to the 1×0.35 m scheme. Thus, per 1 sq. m of bed there should be 3-4 plants. Denser planting will negatively affect the crop yield and the description of the Tchaikovsky f1 cucumber variety will bear little resemblance to the grown plants.

Like any other cultivated plant, cucumbers of hybrid origin need watering, fertilizing and weeding. Despite the fact that cucumbers love water, you need to water the crop in moderation: the soil should be slightly moist and not swampy. Due to excess moisture, bushes suffer from root rot and dangerous fungal diseases. Water consumption depends on the age of the plants: 2.5–3 liters of water are applied to young plants, and 10 liters to mature plants. Water for irrigation should be slightly warm.

Cucumbers that grow in a fertilized bed are fed 4 times. Most gardeners add nutrients according to this scheme:

  1. After the formation of 2–3 true leaves. Water the cucumbers with urea solution - 1 tbsp. l. granular substance into a bucket of water.
  2. In 2 weeks. Add 500 ml of cow dung to a bucket of water and mix thoroughly. Apply 0.5–1 liter of solution per plant.
  3. During the flowering period. For 10 liters of water add 1 tbsp. l. urea, 2 tbsp. l. ash.
  4. During the fruiting period. 200 g of ash and 500 ml of chicken are stirred in a bucket of water.

To prevent weeds from compacting the soil and drawing nutrients from the soil, plants are pulled out immediately after they appear. Loosen the soil after watering and rain.

Harvest and storage

Harvesting begins when the cucumbers reach a length of 10 cm. They are harvested every two days. Do not delay picking cucumbers, otherwise they will lose their taste. Vegetables are cut with a knife; pulling and twisting the stalks is undesirable. Collected cucumbers can be used immediately, while they are as fresh and crisp as possible, or canned. The harvest can easily be transported and can remain in the refrigerator for a month without changing its taste. Despite the early stages of ripening, gherkins in the marinade retain the firmness and crunch of a young cucumber.

In winter, the Tchaikovsky F1 variety will remind you of itself with high-quality preparations

Advantages and disadvantages

The Tchaikovsky variety has not yet had time to show its shortcomings, but was able to fully show all its positive sides.


In the Far East and Siberia, cucumber can only be grown indoors

Advantages:

  • fast growing season;
  • self-pollinating;
  • amicable maturation;
  • high productivity;
  • transportability;
  • keeping quality;
  • excellent taste without bitterness;
  • resistance to temperature changes;
  • strong immunity.

Flaws:

  • prickly thorns;
  • inability to collect seeds;
  • increased requirements for soil.
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