What are KSD, NSD and DSD strawberries (strawberries)?

Almost every plot grows garden strawberries, or strawberries. It is a pity that the season of this berry does not last long, and through the efforts of breeders from all over the world, many varieties have been developed that provide a continuous harvest until the autumn frosts. And of course, varieties were obtained suitable for growing in an apartment, producing crops all year round.

One can easily get confused in the variety of species and varieties of this berry, especially when the packages of seedlings and seeds bear the designations DSD, NSD and KSD. How to decipher this abbreviation, and which variety to buy for growing in the house or in the country?

Botanical description of strawberries (garden strawberries)

Everyone knows what garden strawberries are - they are strawberries, which are one of the first berries to ripen in the garden beds.
This is a perennial plant up to 40 cm tall, with a fibrous root system. Strawberry leaves are collected in a rosette, trifoliate. The upper side of the strawberry leaf is slightly pubescent, and the lower side has prominent veins and is densely hairy.

Homemade strawberries produce mustaches and have shortened stems or horns. The more horns grow on a bush, the higher its yield will be. Strawberries produce several flower stalks on each horn.

The flowering period of the crop lasts about three weeks. The most interesting thing is that strawberries are actually overgrown receptacles. On the receptacle there are small nuts, which are the real fruits.

Strawberries have taken pride of place in garden plots along with currants for centuries. Despite the fact that recently appeared varieties of blackberries and blueberries are gaining popularity, strawberries are very popular among gardeners.

Strawberries grow well even in a city apartment, and with proper care they yield good harvests even on a window in winter. If you take into account the characteristics of the variety and choose seedlings wisely, you can pick berries all year round.

What are the features of remontant strawberries?

To know how to properly grow remontant strawberries, you need to have an idea of ​​how they differ from ordinary strawberries (garden strawberries). Strawberries form a harvest once a year, since they lay fruit buds during short daylight hours (closer to the end of summer). And its remontant variety is capable of more: it can form buds during a long daylight hours (DSD varieties) or during a neutral day, when day and night have the same duration (NSD varieties).

What are KSD, NSD and DSD strawberries (strawberries)?

All varieties of strawberries are divided into three groups according to the length of daylight hours. KSD (short daylight) are short-day varieties. We can say that this is an ordinary strawberry that will produce a harvest once per season.

KSD varieties are able to bloom only under conditions of 10-12 hours of daylight, and only at a temperature of about +12-17 degrees.

Strawberry varieties NSD (neutral daylight) will produce crops for as long as growing conditions allow. This is a separate group that can have four waves of fruiting.

Kidney laying in the NSD group occurs in cycles every 6 weeks. The main advantage of growing NSD strawberries is that for such varieties the duration of lighting is not at all important. Also, these varieties reproduce well - they produce a lot of tendrils, which do not even need to take root to start bearing fruit. NSD strawberries are cultivated indoors.

There are two peaks of fruiting in strawberries of the DSD group (long daylight hours). The first wave occurs almost simultaneously with the peak of ripening of ordinary strawberries. The second peak occurs in August-October.

DSD strawberries need long daylight hours - up to 17 hours. these varieties produce very few tendrils, and the rosettes on the tendrils do not bloom.

Differences between KSD, NSD and DSD

Each group has its own growing characteristics. But NSD strawberries in open ground conditions have the same features as DSD.

Day neutral varieties bear fruit continuously. Out of habit, gardeners call all NSD varieties remontant.

The main difference between these groups of strawberries is the duration of lighting required for fruiting. KDS strawberries, like NSD, can bloom and ripen during short daylight hours. The third group needs a long day.

Strawberry NSD. Features of cultivation

Spoiler

Regarding the length of daylight hours, garden strawberry varieties are divided into three types (source).

• Short daylight (SDD)
  varieties are early fruiting varieties that produce crops once at the end of May - June. Establishment and differentiation of peduncles in generative fruit buds under short daylight hours (10…12 hours).
• Long daylight hours (LDD)
  - fruit buds are laid at a temperature of +15 ° C and a daylight duration of 14...17 hours. For flowering, the required daylight hours are 12 hours or more.
• Remontant
  – produces 2…4 waves of fruiting depending on the variety.

You can often find descriptions of positions in very serious nurseries: remontant, neutral day. Can a remontant one be at the same time an NSD or not? If you start a word game, then yes, it can. The remontant bears fruit again, and the neutral also bears fruit again. So, maybe. Therefore, without demagoguery: when we say remontant, we mean 2...4 collections, neutral – a continuous conveyor starting from June-July.

Day neutral strawberries (NDS)

- plants lay fruit buds every 5...6 weeks, they develop in 14...16 days. Daylight hours and temperatures (vary from +2...+5 to +30 °C) have no effect. Starting in June, NSD varieties bear fruit continuously until frost. At the same time, such a plant has ripened fruits, flowers, ovaries, and ripening berries. Strawberry NSD has an accelerated development cycle. It is grown for only one season.

A feature of growing NSD strawberries is the small number of whiskers - instead of them, flower stalks are formed in the axils of the leaves.

The plants are less leafy and the bushes are more compact. Such varieties reproduce much more slowly than usual, but you don’t have to worry about thickening.

Basics of care

To form sufficiently large fruits, NSD strawberries need more fertile soil and more abundant watering compared to the short-day group. In general, the crop is not for the lazy: devoting all their energy to fruiting, day-neutral strawberries also require increased care and enhanced agricultural technology.

Sufficient watering is necessary for the formation of the ovary and the formation of fruit buds - without it, you can’t expect a decent harvest.

More intensive fertilizing is the application of the NPK mineral complex and complex fertilizers containing iron, boron, manganese, calcium, magnesium, phosphorus in the initial phases of the growing season and throughout the entire growing period, including flowering, ovary, ripening and autumn fertilizing.

If humus and superphosphate are added in the required quantities during soil preparation, fertilizers containing phosphorus may not be applied during the growing season.

• First feeding

If remontant strawberries are already growing in the beds, the first fertilizing should be done in early spring. Immediately after the snow melts, trim the bushes and apply fertilizers containing nitrogen.

The source of nitrogen can be both organic and mineral fertilizers. As a mineral fertilizer, you can use nitroammophoska. Dissolve 1 tbsp in 10 liters of water. fertilizers and water the plants at the rate of 300...400 ml per bush.

Green fertilizer is a good fertilizer. Pour water over nettles and other herbs. After 3...4 days, dilute the infused solution with water 1:10 and water the plants, using 1 liter of the resulting solution per 1 plant. You can carry out foliar feeding with an infusion of herbs; for this, the solution is diluted with water 1:20 and the plants are sprayed leaf by leaf.

Before flowering, fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers is carried out 2 times.

• Second feeding

It is carried out during flowering. At this time, remontant strawberries especially need potassium. With enough of this microelement, the berries will grow large and sweet.

1 tsp Dilute potassium nitrate in 10 liters of water and pour under the root. The solution consumption is about 400 ml per bush.

Make a 0.02% solution of zinc sulfate (2 g per 10 liters of water) and spray the plants (increases yield).

It is very useful for good berry set to spray the plants with a solution of boric acid (5 g per 10 liters of water).

Feeding during flowering is carried out every 7 - 8 days. They must be stopped before fruiting begins so that the substances included in their composition do not accumulate in the berries.

After harvesting the first wave, fertilizing is repeated cyclically to ensure the quality of the berries of the second wave of fruiting.

Spoiler

When adding additional nutrition in this case, it is not recommended to combine different types of fertilizing. Each of them should have its own time and composition, and the minimum break between procedures should be at least 7-10 days.

Source: https://gidfermer.com/sadovodstvo/yagody/chem-podkormit-klubniku-vo-vremya-cveteniya.html
Modified on May 21, 2022 by Natsha/Natalia

Strawberry (garden strawberry) yield

The yield also varies depending on the variety. Many large-fruited varieties have been bred, and the weight of the berries could be about 50-60 or even 100 g.

Productivity of KSD

Short-day strawberries produce a single harvest, but it can be very abundant. As a rule, the bushes bear fruit for three to four years, and after this cycle the plantation must be renewed. On average, the yield of short-day strawberries is about 370 g per bush.

Yield NSD

The average weight of day-neutral strawberries is about 30 g. The main harvest from these varieties is harvested in the second half of summer and early autumn. In heated greenhouses and indoors, day-neutral strawberries produce crops almost continuously. NSD strawberries produce an average of about 4 kg of berries per square bed.

Productivity DSD

Long-day varieties produce two harvests per season, with the second wave of fruiting being much more abundant. Often, after such a load, sockets die. The berries weigh on average about 50 g, but some varieties produce fruits up to 100 g. On average, a garden strawberry bush DSD produces up to 1.5 kg of berries over the entire season.

Advantages and disadvantages of KSD

The main advantage of strawberries with short daylight hours is their high yield for several seasons in a row. For at least 4 years, one bush will bear fruit well.

But over time, the berries on the bushes will begin to become smaller and ripen less well. Therefore, it is recommended to update the plantations every few seasons.

Among the disadvantages of short-day strawberries, one should highlight the too burdensome care of the plantation. The fact is that such varieties produce a lot of whiskers, which have to be constantly removed. If this is not done, the rosettes will weaken and will not be able to produce a high yield the next season.

Characteristics of the KSD group

When the air warms up to +12 degrees in early spring, the KSD varieties begin to grow. Among the varieties of the KSD group, early, mid-ripening and late are distinguished. The KSD will bear fruit only once. One rosette produces many whiskers, which makes reproduction easier. In one place, a KSD bush can grow and produce crops for up to 6 years.

Advantages and disadvantages of NSD

Neutral varieties, the development of which does not depend on the duration of lighting, are excellent for indoors and in heated greenhouses. Indoors, such strawberries will produce berries all year round, since the rosettes lay buds every 5-6 weeks.

In open ground conditions, neutrals begin to bear fruit in the second half of summer and, under cover, strawberries produce crops until late autumn. In the beds, neutral varieties begin to grow when the air temperature reaches +15 degrees. But a large load on plants quickly depletes them and therefore plantings must be regularly updated.

Most neutrals produce almost no whiskers, which makes propagation of such varieties difficult.

Strawberry care nsd

The basis for caring for neutrals is fertilizing, otherwise the plants will quickly die due to the heavy load in depleted soil. Neutrals should be fed very intensively.

Bushes need NPK mineral complexes and chelate additives throughout the growing season. In one season, up to 10 fertilizers are applied. The soil for planting is filled with organic matter - rotted manure, humus, and superphosphate is always added.

In open ground, the crop will develop well in a sunny area, protected from the north wind, on sandy or loamy soil with a neutral reaction.

Every two years it is recommended to renew the NSD strawberry plantings.

Basic techniques for caring for DSD varieties

How to grow remontant strawberries? There are general care rules that are typical for any strawberry crops, but there are also some peculiarities.

Loosening the soil should be carried out regularly, especially after watering or rain. Loosening is necessary to provide air access to the roots of the plants. This technique is carried out carefully: you must not damage the root system or newly rooted mustache (if you need to preserve it). When mulching, loosening is not necessary: ​​the soil under the mulch layer remains moist and loose.

When caring for remontant strawberries, watering with warm, settled water is very important. This care is especially important during the period of fruit ripening, when the climate is very hot. The soil should not dry out, and moisture should be kept 2-3 cm deep, otherwise the berries will be small or begin to crumble. If the surface is covered with mulch, then such frequent watering is not necessary.

It is most convenient to fertilize during watering. To do this, grind the herbs of wormwood, yarrow and nettle, add water and leave for 7 days until the composition ferments. This is good nutrition during the period of growing and caring for remontant strawberries, as it contains a set of microelements necessary for the plant. An infusion of bird droppings (1:15) or an infusion of mullein (1:10) is useful.

Caring for remontant strawberries also includes removing the mustache. There are varieties that produce almost no mustache, while others produce a lot of them. They weaken the bush, reduce the yield, and do not allow the plant to grow stronger.

During the growing season, gardeners regularly remove excess shoots. If necessary, leave 1-2 strong young specimens from the mother plant to renew the plantation next year. Reddening leaves are also removed, which helps rejuvenate the bush during cultivation and is one of the techniques for caring for a remontant crop.

Advice! Since plantings are renewed every 2 years, the strawberry bushes should be placed freely so that there is room for the growth of mustaches that will replace the mother plant.

During cultivation, remontant strawberries are not spared by pests and diseases. Most often the berry crop gets sick

• gray rot, which is a fungal infection and “attacks” bushes in cool and humid weather;
• powdery mildew, similar to a white coating in the form of a cobweb and also related to fungal “misfortunes”;
• brown spot is a fungal disease that affects old leaves, on which bright brown spots are clearly visible.

If signs of the disease are noticed, the infected foliage or berries are removed and, if necessary, treated with chemicals. Of the pests, strawberries most often suffer from the strawberry mite, which is removed with a Karbofos solution after harvesting.

Warning: Insecticides should not be applied to flowering plants.

The first treatment occurs during the formation of young foliage, the second is carried out during the formation of inflorescences, and the third is possible after harvesting. The drugs need to be changed, since both pests and microorganisms can get used to them.

When growing DSD varieties in open ground, the second harvest does not always have time to “give off the berries” in full. Cold weather sets in and the fruit-bearing plant goes under the snow with berries. The plants remain unprepared for winter, and it is no longer possible to collect the crop remaining on the branches.

In the northern regions, remontant strawberries are grown in protected soil (under a film), so the first fruiting occurs earlier and the second wave of berries has time to ripen. This type of care is called “growing in tunnels,” when in August a breathable covering material is stretched over the beds using arcs. Due to the heat, fruiting extends until October.

How to prepare berries for winter

How to care for remontant strawberries before the onset of cold weather? Autumn care and care for red berries in the fall are no less important than during the growing season. The following activities are carried out:

1. Plants that are tired over the summer period need to be fed using complex fertilizers. This will give the bushes strength for spring growth and make subsequent care easier.
2. At the end of summer, all peduncles of remontant strawberries are pruned. Before the onset of cold weather, the berries do not ripen, and the plant uses forces to form them.
3. Before frost, the soil around the holes is loosened, mixed with a mulch layer. Then sprinkle a fresh layer of mulch on top: rotted leaves, humus, sawdust.
4. After the onset of cold weather, remontant strawberries are pruned, during which the leaves are completely removed, leaving the petioles at a height of 2 cm from the soil surface.
5. During the same period, the plantation is covered for the winter with spruce branches, leaves, and mown grass. This is an important point in care, which allows the remontant bushes and roots not to freeze in the cold.

Features of continuous fruiting strawberries

Many varieties do not tolerate even short-term cold snaps very well. In winter, bushes must be covered.

Remontant varieties of strawberries need high humidity, so watering should be regular and fairly plentiful. Be sure to mulch the bushes to reduce moisture evaporation.

It is recommended to remove the very first flower stalks to obtain a harvest of larger berries. If the rosette is grown as a queen rosette, all flower stalks on it must be cut off.

Varieties of strawberries (garden strawberries)

Strawberry varieties are divided into early, medium and late ripening, as well as into the groups KSD, NSD and KSD.

In indoor conditions and in open ground, it is easier to grow varieties that are stress-resistant, less susceptible to insects and diseases, less demanding of care, and at the same time produce high yields.

The best varieties of strawberries with short daylight hours are traditional

Excellent domestic variety Tsarina

average term. Produces berries weighing up to 60 g, the taste of which is sweet and sour. It is transportable, tolerates heat and prolonged drought, and is resistant to spotting and root rot.

Eliana

- This is a Dutch early variety. It produces a lot of runners, the weight of the berry is up to 90 g. In drought and intense heat, the berry begins to shrink. Overwinters only with shelter and is disease resistant.

Honey

begins to bear fruit in May, producing up to 1.2 kg of berries per bush. Does not require special attention

Nightingale

– a domestic variety of medium maturity, produces berries weighing up to 50 g. Requires frequent watering and is susceptible to root system diseases. Showed itself well in the winter conditions of the Middle Zone.

The best remontant strawberry varieties

Queen Elizabeth

bred in Holland. The second version of the variety was obtained in our country. The berries are large, up to 100 g. Already in the first season, the variety produces a harvest. Requires updating every season.

Albion

was released in California in 2006. The variety is high-yielding, tolerates drought well, and is little susceptible to disease. But the plants do not tolerate the frosts of the Middle Zone. It grows well indoors; up to 2 kg of berries can be collected from one bush.

The Portola variety ripens a week earlier than Albion.

. The variety is resistant to diseases and is not susceptible even to late blight. Gives consistently high yields.

Moscow delicacy

produces harvests already in the first season. It bears fruit well all year round in an apartment and in a heated greenhouse. Does not like excessive watering - strawberries begin to shrink. In the beds it needs shelter before frost.

Rating of the best strawberry varieties

Perhaps one of the best varieties of Dutch breeders Wim Zant

. Although the variety is generally unpretentious, the berries do not tolerate transportation well. Ripening begins at the end of May, the weight of the berries is about 40 g, one bush produces up to 800 g of fruit.

Gigantella berries

reach a weight of 125 g. The variety is easily transported, easy to use in agricultural technology, and suitable for business. Gigantella ripens in June; up to 3 kg of berries can be harvested from one bush.

Pearl American breeders variety Diamond

– he is already 20 years old, but he is not losing ground. Resistant to most diseases, ripening begins at the end of spring, up to 2 kg of fruits are harvested from one bush.

Dukat variety is not afraid of cold

, produces up to 2 kg of fruit per bush, fruiting begins in late spring.

Canadian breeders developed the Kent

, who is already 35 years old. One of the most unpretentious varieties, produces up to 1 kg of berries per bush, begins bearing fruit in June, and is resistant to powdery mildew.

Tolerates winter well and produces up to 1 kg of berries per bush, the Divnaya

. Berries weigh up to 40 g with dense pulp, tolerate transportation well, and are resistant to gray rot.

The best remontant varieties of NSD

You can achieve high yields per hundred square meters of berry plantings by growing remontant strawberries with neutral daylight hours (NDD). The best remontant varieties of strawberries differ from traditional varieties not only in their large fruits, but also in their high yields, as well as the transportability of the harvest.

Ways to grow strawberries

Garden strawberries are grown both in beds and indoors. The culture grows well in vertical beds, in greenhouses and greenhouses, and even on a windowsill in a flower pot in a city apartment.

Growing on the ground

Strawberries grow well on black soil. Peat should not be planted in the beds, as it can cause harm. The area for the plantation is dug up in the fall and manure and humus are covered at a rate of 7 kg per square bed.

It is useful to grow alkaloid lupine next to strawberries, which will protect the plantation from insect attacks. The optimal time for planting is early spring or late summer.

A step of about 30 cm is left between the holes, holes are dug according to the size of the roots of the seedlings. The leaves of the seedlings are torn off before planting, leaving only 3-4 well-developed leaves on the bush. It is important to ensure that after planting the root collar of the bush remains flush with the soil. First, the hole is filled with water, then a bush is planted, covered with soil and compacted.

After planting, be sure to mulch the strawberries.

A layer of mulch will help reduce the evaporation of moisture from the ground, and will also make it easier to care for the plantation - it will inhibit the growth of weeds.

Already in the spring, almost all varieties of strawberries bloom. At this time, potassium is needed - you can also use ash. To increase productivity, it is useful to spray the bushes with a solution of boric acid.

The area under strawberries must be kept clean - the beds are weeded and loosened so that air can pass to the roots. All whiskers that the rosettes produce, if they are not needed for reproduction, are cut off.

Growing in a greenhouse

To obtain an off-season harvest, strawberries are grown in greenhouses. For flowering to occur in the greenhouse it should be about +18 degrees, and for fruiting a temperature of about +20 degrees is required.

In greenhouse conditions, the plants' requirements for air humidity change. During the period of green mass growth, it is necessary to increase the humidity by placing containers of water in the greenhouse or watering the paths. The humidity indicator should be 90%. During the fruiting period, air humidity should be 85%.

Air stagnation should not be allowed in greenhouses, otherwise the onset of fungal diseases cannot be avoided.

It will not be possible to obtain a very early strawberry harvest in a film greenhouse, since it is more difficult to maintain the desired microclimate in such structures. Strawberries are also grown in glass greenhouses. As a rule, they are built from old frames. In this case, it is necessary to carefully seal all the cracks, otherwise the greenhouse will be cold at night.

In greenhouse conditions, it is enough to water strawberries once a week during flowering and twice a week during fruiting. Strawberry plantings in greenhouses are renewed every 1-2 years.

Growing hydroponically all year round

The essence of the method is growing strawberries in a special substrate that supports the root system of the plants. Hydroponics allows you to get high yields of strawberries even in a city apartment.

About 20 cm are left between the bushes. For large varieties, the step is from 25 cm. The row spacing should be at least 35 cm. The nutrient solution should under no circumstances come into contact with the green mass, flowers and fruits.

Creating conditions for growing years

They use the simplest substrate - according to the technology, soil is simply not needed. Strawberries are growing quickly. The technique allows you to avoid treating plants with chemicals against pests, since they simply do not exist.

When growing strawberries hydroponically, it is necessary to strictly observe the temperature regime. The temperature of the air and the root system of plants should be around +20 degrees. Heat will cause the roots to die, and cool air will cause plant growth to stop. There should be at least 12 hours of daylight.

Planting remontant strawberries

This is the first and most important point when growing. Correctly selected place and soil, timely planted mustaches are the key to successful settlement of strawberries in the beds. If all techniques are carried out correctly, and care is thought out taking into account the characteristics of remontant varieties, then success is guaranteed.

Preparing for landing

Growing remontant strawberries begins with preparing the soil. Regardless of whether planting will be done in spring or autumn, the soil is prepared in advance by adding humus and superphosphate (according to the instructions) for digging.

Strawberries prefer fertile, well-drained soil. If the soil is “heavy”, then be sure to dilute it with peat, sand, humus and create drainage, otherwise the roots of the berry crop will rot.

In spring, bushes are planted in mid-May, and in autumn - from mid-August to September. Late planting will destroy the plants, as they will not have time to take root before the first frost.

Planted in the spring, it will also bear fruit, but not as abundantly.

Landing Features

The optimal way to arrange the whiskers (future bushes) is the nesting method. With this type of planting of remontant strawberries, care is greatly simplified. But some gardeners find it most convenient to arrange plants in a carpet at a distance of 20x20 cm. As they grow, strawberries occupy free space and during cultivation a carpet of red berries is obtained.

The row method is easy to care for, when the distance between bushes is 20-25 cm, and between rows up to 70 cm. Plants planted in rows look more neat and are easier to process.

The landing sequence is as follows:

• according to the most convenient scheme, dig holes to a depth of 10-15 cm;
• the depth may be greater or less depending on the size of the seedling;
• a “hump” of soil is made inside the hole, on which the roots are laid out and straightened;
• the hole is filled up, compacting the soil;
• the root collar or “heart” is placed at soil level and cannot be buried;
• The bush is watered abundantly and mulched with peat, straw, and sawdust.

You can add rotted manure or “Agrovit” and “Fertika” containing phosphorus and potassium to the hole. A month later, the plants are fed with the microbiological preparation “Extrasol” and the stimulant “Novosil”, which relieves stress in unfavorable weather conditions and helps the plant adapt during cultivation.

Most often, remontant strawberries are propagated by mustaches. If the number of whiskers is insignificant, then you can divide the bush into several equal parts. The seed propagation method is also possible, but the seeds are small, take a long time to germinate, and the bush forms slowly. In addition, propagation by seeds does not guarantee the preservation of the varietal qualities of the mother plant.

Secrets of increasing productivity

The basis for a good strawberry harvest is timely and proper watering and fertilizing. This is why it is so important to mulch your bushes to reduce evaporation.

Strawberries should be well watered in the spring when the leaves are growing, during budding and flowering, and when the crop is ripening. After each berry picking, the plantation is watered generously. Autumn watering is also very important. That is, the strawberry bed needs to be watered constantly.

Strawberries should be fed at least three to four times a season. Moreover, remontant varieties should be fed almost every week.

Organic infusions of herbs, vermicompost and ash are used. Ash can be sprinkled under the root after picking the berries.

Reproduction

The easiest way to reproduce is with a mustache. Young rosettes completely inherit varietal characteristics and take root very well. Experienced gardeners advise taking tendrils from the strongest, best bushes in order to obtain high-quality planting material.

Mustaches that grow in July take root faster. Each can have up to 3-4 young sockets. The whiskers are simply pressed into the ground and fall asleep. By autumn, young plants are separated from the mother bush and planted in a new area. This way you can get a lot of planting material.

Botanical description

Leaves are trifoliate, complex in shape. They are located on long stems, the height of which can reach 8-10 cm. Creeping shoots are characterized by the ability to take root. The root system is fibrous type, with a depth of 20-25 cm. The inflorescences are represented by a multi-flowered shield. The flowers are located on long peduncles extending from the root collar of the plant. The berries are complex, or prefabricated.

The characteristics and yield indicators depend on the varietal characteristics of strawberries. When choosing a variety, you should familiarize yourself with its description, characteristics and reviews of experienced gardeners. It is important to choose zoned varieties that will show the best results in home garden cultivation.

Ways to prevent morbidity

You should not thicken strawberry plantings, as this will lead to the appearance of diseases. The beds must be kept clean. It is recommended to plant garlic and marigolds next to strawberries, which repel insect pests. Dusting the plantation with ash will serve as both a top dressing and an effective remedy against parasitic insects.

For preventive purposes, strawberries are sprayed with copper sulfate or Bordeaux mixture in early spring. To prevent the development of root rot, seedlings are kept in a Fitosporin solution for a couple of hours before planting.