What types of fertilizing do honeysuckle need in spring for a good harvest?
Some gardeners are sure that honeysuckle is an unpretentious shrub, which means there is no need to fertilize it. However, this is not entirely true, because with the required amount of fertilizing, the quality and quantity of the crop will increase significantly.
The plant has long roots located superficially, so it is necessary to carry out at least 3 feedings:
- In early spring - for recovery after winter.
- In late spring - to improve the quality of flowering.
- At the beginning of summer - to obtain large berries.
According to the methods of applying fertilizer, there are root and foliar feeding. More common and well-known is root feeding. To fully fertilize honeysuckle, it is necessary to use both of these types.
The best varieties of honeysuckle
Honeysuckle (literally life and youth) are ornamental and fruit shrubs of the Honeysuckle family. There are about 200 types of culture. In nature, most deciduous shrubs are found; evergreen varietal varieties are rare species.
According to the shape of the bush, honeysuckle can be:
- creeping;
- curly;
- erect.
Some species are grown as a fruit crop (edible varieties and hybrids), and decorative varieties are used in landscape design. Lush bushes with fragrant colorful flowers of different colors decorate front gardens, alleys, flower beds, gardens and parks.
Edible varieties
According to the State Register of Breeding Achievements of the Russian Federation, varietal varieties of honeysuckle are conventionally divided according to the timing of harvest ripening:
- Early varieties and hybrids - Roxana, Sineglazka, Omega, Morena, Moskovskaya 23, Gerda, Assol, Viola.
- Mid-early species - Maria, Gzhelka, Nymph, Sibirinka.
- Mid-season varieties - Atlant, Vlada, Goryanka, Dymka, Ivushka, Iolinka 1, Lapis lazuli.
- Mid-late varieties - Kingfisher, Gorlinka, Slavyanka, Fianit, Dessertnaya, Nekrasovka.
- Late-ripening species - Blueberry, Selena, Provincial, Chosen, etc.
Stages of fertilizing
How to feed honeysuckle in the spring for a good harvest. Root feeding must be carried out with highly soluble mineral fertilizers, which contain important nutrients. In this case, the fertilizer can be used both in dry and liquid form.
To use fertilizer in liquid form:
- water from a watering can without a mesh;
- Wash off the fertilizer from the leaves in case of accidental contact (otherwise burns may occur).
When using fertilizer in dry form, you need:
- prepare furrows 10-12 cm deep, at a distance of 10 cm from the plant;
- wait for rainy weather;
- distribute the fertilizer along the furrows.
Root fertilizers are not always well absorbed by plants due to bad weather conditions. In such cases, foliar feeding can help. The principle of such fertilizers is based on the absorption of substances by plants through leaves and stems.
The idea is to spray the fertilizer on the leaves.
For foliar feeding, a number of conditions must be met:
- spray in the evening or in rainy weather, sunny weather is not suitable;
- Apply the solution evenly to the leaves of plants;
- use a suitable sprayer.
There are also two other types of fertilizer application: continuous and local.
If a continuous method is chosen, then the required dose should be evenly scattered around the entire perimeter of the soil bed, and sprinkled with earth on top.
If preference is given to the local method, then the fertilizer must be mixed with the soil. Application can be in holes or in rows.
The stages of fertilizing depend on the schedule of vegetative processes:
- In spring, during the period of active leaf growth and the birth of flower buds.
- In summer, during active flowering and fruit formation.
- In autumn, when the plant is preparing for winter.
Honeysuckle does not like too frequent fertilizing, so there is no need to apply fertilizer more than three times a year.
Seasonal work on honeysuckle care
Growing honeysuckle - a schedule of seasonal work to care for the crop with a listing and detailed description of all the necessary elements:
Month | Types of work and frequency | Method | Main substance (dosage/recipe/instructions) |
March, before the buds open | Thinning postponed from autumn (see corresponding season) 1 time in 2–3 years (see autumn season) | ||
April, before the start of sap flow (the length of young growth is at least 20 cm) | Sanitary pruning (first 4–6 years annually) | Crown formation | |
Fertilization with substances containing nitrogen | Spreading | Ammonium nitrate (once a year) 10–15 g/1 sq. m. | |
Urea (once a year) 8–10 mg/1 sq. m. | |||
March, snow melting period | Adding mineral solutions | Infusion with melt water, watering, sprinkling, | |
April, before flowering (due to the fragility of the roots, they deepen by a maximum of 20 cm) | Slurry Annually 1:10 (ratio to water) | ||
Chicken manure Annually 1:20 (ratio to water) | |||
Weeding, loosening, mulching | |||
April–May, period of flowering and fruit set | Abundant watering, sprinkling | Water (only in dry springs) - 30–50 l/1 sq. m. | |
May | Top dressing | Spreading | Humus 1 time every 2–3 years, 10 l (bucket) |
Phosphorus-potassium fertilizer 1 time every 2–3 years 100–120 g | |||
Wood ash 1 time every 2–3 years 0.5–1 l | |||
June July August | Watering, sprinkling, treatment with insecticides, acaricides | Water Annually As needed | |
June | Fertilization with mineral solutions | Watering | Phosphorus Annually For composition, dosage and recipe, see the packaging of the finished mixture |
Potassium Annually For composition, dosage and recipe, see the packaging of the finished mixture | |||
Loosening, abundant watering of tree trunk circles - annually | |||
September (Length of young growth – at least 20 cm) | Sanitary pruning (First 4–6 years annually) | Forming the crown, removing branches growing inside the bush | |
November, after leaf fall ends | Thinning | Trimming a third of the skeletal branches. Shorten another 1/3 to a strong side shoot. Complete pruning of old branches. If the shrub bears fruit for 4 years in a row or more, the procedure is carried out once every 2–3 years. Branches older than 8 years should be cut out at the base, leaving stumps 7–8 cm high. | |
Anti-aging pruning | The lower part of the honeysuckle bush has become bare, the crown has risen higher along the trunk, and the berries appear only on the periphery. If the shrub bears fruit for 4 years in a row or more, the procedure is carried out once every 2–3 years. Stumps should be left 40–50 cm high | ||
September October | Top dressing | Incorporation of fertilizers into the root zone of the soil at a depth of up to 10 cm | Organic mixtures: rotted manure, compost 1 time in 2 g. 10 kg for each bush |
Superphosphate Annually 100 g/1 sq. m. | |||
Potassium salt Annually 30–40 g/1 sq. m. | |||
November, two weeks before the start of frost | Introduction of moisture-charging irrigation | Water Annually 6–8 liters for each bush |
Ash - fertilizer for honeysuckle
Watering
The crop loves abundant watering and does not tolerate dry soil. During the period of flowering and setting berries, honeysuckle needs a lot of moisture. Its deficiency can lead to shedding of the ovaries. From the beginning of May to the end of June, four to six abundant waterings should be carried out: 40–50 liters of water for each bush of the plant.
Fertilizing
The productivity and growth of honeysuckle depend on seasonal feeding. Soil fertilization calendar:
Season | Month | Top dressing | Application rates for a substance or mixture | Method (method) of feeding |
Spring | March | Urea | 8–10 mg/1 sq.m. | Root spreading with a depth of 20–30 cm into the soil |
Ammonium nitrate | 10–15 g/1 sq. m. | |||
Salts of nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus - amide, ammonia, nitrate | 15 g/1 sq.m. | |||
10% aqueous solution | Watering, sprinkling, infusion with melt water | |||
April | Slurry | |||
Chicken droppings | 5% aqueous solution | |||
Phosphorus flour, phosphate, superphosphate, double superphosphate | 40–60 g/1 sq.m. | Application into the hole using the root method | ||
10% aqueous solution | ||||
May | Humus | 10 l (bucket) | ||
Phosphorus-potassium fertilizers | 100–120 g | Spreading under each bush with a depth of 20–30 cm into the soil | ||
Summer | June | Urea | 20 g | |
20 g/10 l for 1 bush | Watering | |||
Phosphorus | Added as part of ready-made mixtures | See packaging | ||
Potassium | ||||
July, after harvest | Slurry | 10 l (bucket) | Watering | |
Nitrophoska (with water) | 20 g/10 l | |||
Autumn | September October | Potash fertilizers – kainite, sylvinite | 40–60 g/1 sq.m. | Application into the hole using the root method |
Peat | 10 kg for each bush | Mulching, embedding into the soil using the root method to a depth of no more than 10 cm | ||
Manure | ||||
Humus, vermicompost |
Feeding honeysuckle
Pollination and cross-pollination
Honeysuckle is cross-pollinated. A single bush will not produce a harvest of berries. Proper care of honeysuckle involves creating conditions for pollination and cross-pollination:
- At least a dozen different varieties of crops are planted using the rotation method.
- To attract bumblebees and bees at the beginning of flowering, the plant should be sprayed with a sweet solution of honey or sugar: two tbsp. l. for 10 liters of water.
- Honeysuckle should be planted in clumps, not in rows. Bees and bumblebees prefer to visit groups of plant bushes.
Seasonal pruning
It is useful to use four main types of seasonal honeysuckle pruning:
- Anti-aging pruning is carried out to strengthen and prolong the life of the bush. The procedure ensures normal growth of shoots and improves the general condition of the crop. Old, dry branches are removed.
- Sanitary pruning is the removal of broken, deformed, shriveled, unhealthy shoots that affect the general condition of the crop.
- Formative pruning is carried out in the early stages of crop development. The seedlings are given the necessary habit – a standard spherical shape. In the central part of the bush, thick shoots are cut to the point of lateral growth. Branches growing inward and spreading along the ground are removed. Cut off weakened shoots with small growth. Decoration is an additional function of formative pruning.
- Detailed pruning is the removal of non-viable, damaged shoots from the bush. The procedure is carried out once every 3-4 years to increase fertility.
Honeysuckle pruning diagram
Loosening and mulching
The habitat of honeysuckle is undergrowth with loose and moist litter. The roots of the crop are located close to the soil surface. Digging can harm them, so the tree trunk circle is only loosened to a depth of 20 cm. Having completed the procedure, the soil under the bush is mulched. Types of mulching materials:
Types of Mulch | Materials | Layer height (cm) |
Organic | wood chips | 3–4 |
fallen leaves | 40 | |
Chopped hay | 5 | |
Needles - spruce branches or needles | 3 or more | |
Sawdust | 5 | |
Peat | 10–15 | |
Straw | 5–10 | |
tree bark | 3 or more | |
Mowed and chopped weeds: clover, mustard, chamomile | 5–7 | |
Cake | ||
Paper, cardboard |
| |
Inorganic | Tol | Up to 3 (1–2 layers) |
Ruberoid | ||
Nonwoven materials | ||
Film | Up to 1.5 (1 layer) | |
Pebbles | Up to 5 | |
Crushed stone |
Mulching honeysuckle
Disease Control
To achieve fruiting, honeysuckle must be protected from diseases and pests. Infections and fungi enter the area with soil and planting material, and viruses are carried by nematodes. List of common diseases and agrotechnical measures to combat them:
Disease | External manifestations | Fighting methods |
Powdery mildew | A milky-white coating forms on the foliage of young shoots | Pruning of affected branches, treatment with one of the following preparations:
|
Spots caused by fungus:
| Brown, red, red, olive, white, black spots of a round shape. The leaf at the site of the lesion is withered, thinned and dry. | Collection and removal of vegetation residues, preventive spraying of foliage after flowering with one of the following preparations:
|
Rezucha mosaic virus | Spots of green and white colors on foliage and fruits of varying sizes and shapes. The disease causes damage to leaves and changes in their contour. | Timely removal and burning of affected shoots |
Terms of treatment of honeysuckle from pests
Pest Elimination
Description of pests and measures to combat them: treatment methods, preventive procedures, insecticides:
Insect name | External manifestations | Fighting method | Facilities |
Spider mite | Causes leaves to dry out and fall off. On the reverse side you can see a web in which the insect lays eggs. | Insecticide treatment | Fitoverm – 1 ml per 1 liter of water. The bush is sprayed twice per season. Fufanon – 1 ml of emulsion per 1 liter of water. One seasonal treatment is required at the rate of 200–400 liters of solution per 1 hectare of area. Kemifos – 10 ml of the drug per 10 liters of water. Spraying is carried out 2-3 times a season in dry, windless weather before 10 am or in the evening from 18:00 to 22:00. Aktelik – 2 ml of pesticide per 0.7 liters of water. Watering at the rate of two liters of working fluid per 10 square meters. area. The maximum number of procedures is two with a ten-day break. Lightning – 2 ml of emulsion is diluted in 10 liters of water. Two sprays per season. |
Honeysuckle aphid | The leaves curl up and resemble corrugation. | ||
Trimming and burning part of a shoot affected by an insect colony | Kinmiks – 50 g of chemical per 10 liters of water. A maximum of two applications per season is allowed. Spark – 1 tablet per 10 liters of water. Watering - a bucket for two hundred square meters. Inta-Vir – 1 tablet per 5 liters of water. Treat by spraying a maximum of three times per season in cloudy but dry weather. | ||
Scutellum | Damage to the cortex. Strong repulsive odor. | Annual preventive spraying, insecticide treatment | |
Fufanon, Kemifos, Aktellik | |||
Zlatka | Turns a sheet into a sieve. Damaged areas become darker. | Fufanon | |
Honeysuckle beetle | Gradual drying out of damaged shoots. | ||
Pruning and burning drying branches with larvae | |||
Injection of an insecticide solution into the openings of woody shoots | |||
Collection and destruction of single beetles | |||
Sawfly | The leaves are roughly bitten off, the pest leaves only thick veins and petiole. | ||
Annual preventive spraying, insecticide treatment | Kemifos, Kinmiks, Actellik, Iskra, Inta-Vir, Fufanon | ||
Gallica | They leave galls on the wood - growths with eggs. The larvae disrupt the plant's metabolism: leaves fall and damaged shoots can dry out completely. | ||
leaf roller | Dark rot in areas of infection. | ||
Honeysuckle moth | Damages the inside of the sheet, which becomes transparent. | ||
Autumn moth | Buds and flowers are nibbled. The pest hides between the leaves, holding them together with a web. | ||
Cabbage scoop | General wilting of the plant. Lead-like tint on the inside of the leaves. | ||
Timely removal of cruciferous weeds | |||
Collection and destruction of single caterpillars | |||
Bumblebee-shaped honeysuckle | Dried buds. | ||
Annual preventive spraying, insecticide treatment |
Mineral fertilizers for honeysuckle
Mineral fertilizers in industry are obtained by carrying out chemical reactions between substances. Such fertilizers act quickly on plants and help ensure their good growth. The presence of mineral fertilizers in the ground is short-term.
The following fertilizers are suitable for honeysuckle:
- Ammonium nitrate. This substance contains about 34% nitrogen in combination with chalk, limestone and phosphorus gypsum. It dissolves well in water, but can also be used dry. The optimal dose of use is 15 grams per 1 square meter of land. When using nitrate as a foliar application, the dose is 5 grams per 10 liters of water.
- Urea (nitrogen urea). The substance contains 46% nitrogen. It can be used dry, buried in the ground, or dissolved in water. The optimal dose of use is 15 grams per 1 square meter of land.
- Ammonium sulfate. The substance contains 23% nitrogen and 17% sulfur. It is highly soluble in water, but can also be used in dry form. To use, it must be mixed with chalk or limestone in a ratio of approximately 1 to 1 to reduce the acidic properties of ammonium sulfate. The average amount per 1 square meter is approximately 25 grams.
- Ammonium chloride. The substance contains 24% nitrogen and 68% chlorine. The fertilizer has the ability to greatly change the acidity of the earth, so it must be mixed with lime in a ratio of 1 to 1. It is highly soluble in water.
How to fertilize honeysuckle in summer
The harvest ends early. Already at the end of June - beginning of July, the plant produces its last berries and begins to prepare for the next season. Mineral fertilizers are used to feed honeysuckle in summer. They are introduced in mid-July.
During fruiting
Fertilizers should not be applied during the ripening period of berries. This will affect the taste and reduce the benefits of the fruit.
After harvest
Additional nutrition is applied under the honeysuckle bushes after harvesting the berries. During this period, the shrub lays buds for the next growing season and needs nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus or complex mineral supplements.
It is best to water the plants once with a solution of nitroammophoska, prepared at the rate of 30 g of fertilizer per 10 liters of water.
Important! At the end of the growing season, honeysuckle is weakened, so it requires additional nutrition.
How to feed honeysuckle with potassium and phosphorus
How to feed honeysuckle in the spring for a good harvest. The application of organic fertilizers affects the proliferation of beneficial soil microorganisms. Bacteria, in turn, increase the fertility of the soil, saturate it with oxygen, and prevent the development of diseases due to pathogenic flora.
The following fertilizers can be used on a phosphorus basis:
- Superphosphate. The substance contains 15% phosphorus. Application should be carried out using a continuous method. Norm: 50 grams of fertilizer per 1 square meter of land.
- Double superphosphate. The substance consists of 42% phosphorus. In addition, it is cheaper than superphosphate and does not contain unnecessary substances.
- Phosphorite flour. The substance contains 21% phosphorus and 64% calcium. Can be used on acidic soil. It can increase the plant’s immunity to diseases, protect against parasites, and increase the winter hardiness of honeysuckle. The fertilizer rate is 30 grams per 1 square meter of land.
Potassium fertilizers can be used when preparing honeysuckle for the coming winter. Potassium has the ability to strengthen the root system. In addition, a sufficient amount of potassium can reduce the likelihood of bush diseases and is an excellent preventive measure against parasites. The application rate is 50 grams per 1 square meter of land.
Reproduction
Honeysuckle can be propagated at home in several ways:
- seeds,
- green cuttings,
- layering,
- dividing the bush.
Propagation by seeds
Honeysuckle seeds retain the properties of the variety well. They have good germination. On sale you can find different varieties that are completely ready for sowing. Growing honeysuckle from seeds is easy.
Stages of sowing seeds:
- You can choose any container for sowing.
- The soil mixture for planting is prepared from peat, humus, and garden soil in a ratio of 2:2:5.
- Seeds are sown to a depth of no more than 0.3 cm.
- Watered.
- Cover with film.
- Place in a warm place.
The first shoots appear after 2-5 weeks. After the formation of 3 true leaves, the seedlings are planted.
Reproduction by dividing the bush
Dividing a bush is not available to every gardener. Only plants that are less than 5 years old can be divided. This method injures the bush and can lead to its death.
To get several plants from one bush you need:
- dig up a plant;
- divide it using garden pruners;
- plant each specimen in a new area.
When to plant honeysuckle by dividing the bush? Reproduction occurs in March and September.
Propagation by cuttings
From mid-June to early July, honeysuckle is propagated by green cuttings. The strongest young shoots of the current year are taken as cuttings. The cuttings are cut with a “heel” (capturing the lignified part of the main branch).
You can make several cuttings from one branch:
- the lower leaves are removed;
- find the next pair of leaves after the cut site;
- cut the cuttings 1 cm above the leaves;
- Use scissors to cut off half of each leaf.
Honeysuckle has a difficult time taking root. Therefore, it is better to plant several cuttings at once. It must be taken into account that the bushes will practically not pollinate among themselves. To obtain a bountiful harvest when transplanting, you need to plant other varieties nearby.
To root cuttings, you need to create greenhouse conditions with high humidity (air temperature not lower than 22 0C).
The cuttings are planted in loose, breathable soil - a mixture of peat, compost, and sand. After planting, it is recommended to cover the ground with 2 cm of sand. Watered. Cover with film. Shade. They are transplanted into open ground next spring.
Reproduction by layering
Reproduction by layering is not suitable for all varieties of honeysuckle. To do this, the bush needs to be bent to the soil. Sprinkle the bottom branch with soil (10 cm). Secure with metal pins or V-shaped branches. Cover with soil and water.
It is important to know how to properly plant honeysuckle propagated by layering - the rooted above-ground shoot is separated from the mother plant using garden pruners. They are transferred to a permanent place next spring.
How to properly use manure to feed honeysuckle
Manure is a popular and affordable fertilizer. For feeding, it is better to use it in a rotted form, adding it when digging up an area. To feed mullein, you need to dilute it with water in a ratio of 1 to 6, leave it and pour it over the honeysuckle. First, you need to dig holes around the bushes. Using fresh manure is dangerous for plants, as it can cause severe burns to the root system.
Bird droppings also contain sufficient nitrogen and can be used as fertilizer in the spring.
Growing honeysuckle from seeds at home
Propagation of honeysuckle by seeds is used very rarely, since this method is very labor-intensive and ineffective. Most often it is used by breeders to develop new varieties. In addition, a significant disadvantage of this method is the fact that one cannot be sure of the taste of the fruit and the yield of the crop, since varietal characteristics are not preserved when sowing seeds (Figure 5).
Figure 5. Sowing and germination of honeysuckle seeds
As planting material, take seeds from the ripest and juiciest berries, soak them in potassium permanganate, and then plant them in a container with light fertile soil and cover them with polyethylene. The optimal temperature for germination is +24 degrees, subject to regular watering. After the sprouts appear, the film is removed, and by autumn the sprouts already have a pair of true leaves. The seedlings are covered for the winter, and a year after planting they are planted in the garden bed at intervals of 5 cm.
Foliar feeding of honeysuckle with urea
The foliar method of fertilizing must be used in conjunction with the root method to achieve maximum effect. The essence of the method is that the leaves have a large absorption area. This facilitates access of nutrients to the plant and speeds up the feeding process.
Spraying with a urea solution is well suited for foliar feeding. It must be used when young leaves are deformed and grow very slowly, and also have an atypical pale green tint. Urea affects the growth of young shoots and the formation of buds on them. If there is a danger that the bush will bloom during a cold period, foliar fertilizing with urea will help delay the appearance of flowers. To spray honeysuckle, a 10% aqueous fertilizer solution is required. The rate of fertilizer used is 1 liter for each bush.
Organic plant supplements
The dacha of a gardener who pays due attention to growing plants looks well-groomed, fruit crops bring a good harvest.
When planting an early variety in a garden plot, it is important to choose a good location and soil favorable for the shrub. Garden honeysuckle is considered an unpretentious plant, but for the normal development of the bush and to obtain a large harvest, it is necessary to care for it.
Organic fertilizers
Berry crops require regular moderate watering and timely feeding of the soil. Plant care procedures are recommended to be carried out every season.
Young seedlings should be planted in a sunny, windless area. Before planting, organic fertilizers are added to the soil. As the plant grows, gardeners are wondering how to feed the honeysuckle bushes.
Feeding until the buds swell
For the buds to swell, leaves to grow, flowers to bloom, and fruit to set, the plant requires a lot of strength and energy.
Preparing the soil before planting
You can increase soil fertility by adding organic fertilizers. Rotted manure and compost have a beneficial effect on the development of shrubs. Before the flowering period, 5 kg of manure is applied to each bush. The spring procedure is carried out every three years.
If you didn’t add humus in the spring, you can feed the bush in the fall. There are a few facts gardeners should know about organic fertilizers:
- Fertilizers in the form of humus mixed with peat can serve as mulch for shrubs. The roots of the plant are located close to the surface;
- Rotted manure and compost are nutrient additives with a prolonged effect, so it is important to observe moderation;
- Watering the bush and rain allow the nutritional components to dissolve and penetrate into the soil, thereby nourishing the roots of the plant.
Before flowering
The optimal time for adding organic matter is considered to be the period before the bush blooms. Honeysuckle is fertilized:
- Chicken droppings;
- Slurry.
To do this, take 1 kg of fertilizer, add it to 5 liters of water and mix thoroughly. Such a solution will saturate the root system with nutrients and improve the plant’s immunity.
Note! Correct dosing of organic matter for fertilizing improves the quality and quantity of the harvest, and increases the resistance of the bush to environmental influences.
The root system of a plant can be damaged if there is an excess of organic matter. Honeysuckle that begins to dry out and turn yellow indicates that the soil is oversaturated with additives. Therefore, it is better to apply a little less fertilizer for the normal development of the bush.
Methods for preparing effective organic fertilizer at home:
- Take compost from wormwood, clover, mustard, and weed residues. Water the ground under the bush during the flowering period;
- Grind lawn grass and straw, 150 g of dolomite flour, mix the ingredients. Pour in 5 liters of water and let it brew.
How to feed honeysuckle in the spring for a good harvest: folk remedies
To obtain a plentiful, tasty harvest, as well as to ensure good growth of plants, folk remedies are also suitable. They have become widespread among gardeners due to their ease, accessibility and simplicity.
Fertilizing with herbal infusion
To prepare the fertilizer, you need to fill the container halfway with finely chopped grass, add water, and leave to ferment. The fertilizer will be ready when foam stops forming and the liquid darkens.
Another recipe is also possible: infuse weeds, clover, straw, and mown grass in one container. Fill a large container halfway with them, add water and leave for about one week. Add dolomite flour to the infusion at a dosage of 150 grams per 5 liters.
Humus can also be ideal for feeding. It is often used for mulching and digging up soil, and is capable of making it loose. Thanks to the looseness of the soil, oxygen penetrates more easily to the roots, and the soil retains water longer. For liquid honeysuckle fertilizer, humus must be dissolved in water and infused in a warm place.
How to properly feed honeysuckle with ash
Ash is a source of useful elements such as calcium and potassium. It can be used not only as a fertilizer, but also as a means of combating honeysuckle diseases. It is also great for pest control.
You can simply scatter the ash over the area when loosening the soil or prepare a solution. For the solution, 300 grams of ash must be dissolved in 10 liters of water. Leave for 3 days, strain.
Other folk remedies for feeding honeysuckle
There are several other folk recipes that can be used to feed honeysuckle:
- Coffee grounds. It has the ability to replenish the nitrogen content in the soil. It is enough to water the plant with cold coffee or bury the cake near the roots.
- Water remaining after boiling potatoes. With this remedy, the bush receives a large amount of starch, which is an additional nutrient for honeysuckle.
- Aquarium water. The product contains fish waste products, which are very useful for honeysuckle.
Planting honeysuckle - instructions
In order to consistently obtain a bountiful harvest, it is important to plant at least 2-3 seedlings, preferably of different varieties. The peculiarity of the culture is that the plant is not self-pollinating; cross-pollination requires group planting .
Selection of seedlings
It is better to purchase planting material in special stores or order it from a nursery. The seedlings are already vegetating; in the nursery they are grown in special containers with a volume of up to 3 liters.
In gardening centers, as a rule, there are more than 20 varietal varieties of honeysuckle available for free sale.
When choosing honeysuckle for your garden plot, you need to focus on the main indicators and characteristics of the crop:
- type – edible or ornamental varieties;
- height of the bush, spreading of shoots;
- crown shape;
- size of berries and yield (for edible hybrids);
- timing of flowering and fruiting (in accordance with the growing region).
planting several paired varieties at the same time to increase productivity . For each area with a characteristic climate, the most suitable varieties are selected.
Seedlings with a closed root system
Sold in retail chains and nurseries in pots from 0.2 to 10 liters. Sometimes the roots can be wrapped in a special damp layer of clay mash and sawdust. The closed root system (CRS) protects the seedling from death and drying out, as well as the penetration of infections. Such seedlings tolerate planting more easily and adapt more quickly to a new location.
Saplings with open root system
Seedlings without an earthen clod (OCS) are planted only in the fall, when the active growing season is completed. The roots are soaked in a solution of a growth stimulator at least 24 hours prior to starting the root formation process.
Site selection and soil preparation
Garden honeysuckle loves well-lit places. The seedlings develop faster, the berries fully ripen. Mature bushes are quite cold-resistant, but do not tolerate drafts.
Reference. The wood and bark of honeysuckle calmly tolerates temperatures down to -50C, while the flower buds and root system tolerate frosts down to -40C. In spring, buds form at a temperature of -8C.
The ideal place to plant honeysuckle is along the fence, in low-lying areas, near an orchard and berry bushes of raspberries, currants, and gooseberries.
Edible honeysuckle does not like acidic soil; the optimal acidity level is pH 5.5-6.5 . Chalk, lime or dolomite flour is added to the site 3-4 weeks before planting. The average consumption of chalk for liming soil is 150-200 g per 1 sq. m.
Any type of soil is suitable for fruit crops. For poor and sandy soils, the first filling and regular fertilizing with organic and mineral complexes are required.
Planting pattern, distance between bushes
The planting hole is dug 40-60 cm (depth and width). The distance between holes is at least 1-1.5 m . For tall species, the distance between planting holes is increased by 50-70 cm.
Useful tips
- Before and after fertilizing, plants must be watered. This is necessary to dissolve dry fertilizers and reach the roots.
- After use, organic fertilizers must always be buried with a sufficient layer of soil to ensure the decomposition processes of the fertilizers.
- It is necessary to loosen the soil in the area with honeysuckle as often as possible. This can improve the penetration of oxygen into the soil, which has a beneficial effect on the plant.
- It is imperative to follow the regime of watering the plants.
- Don't feed with too much fertilizer!
- It is necessary to correctly observe all the timing of fertilizing.
You may also be interested in : how to feed strawberries and raspberries in the spring for a good harvest.
Natalia
Author
Ask a Question
Compliance with all feeding rules and sufficient care of the plant will provide the whole family with a tasty and large harvest.
Preventative treatment
Timely preventative work can protect your harvest and ensure a normal growing season for the plant. For a long time, honeysuckle was considered a crop resistant to various diseases and pests. But, unfortunately, every year the plant is increasingly susceptible to various diseases. To protect honeysuckle fruits from danger, it is necessary to carry out preventive work. Let's look at them in more detail.
Did you know? Honeysuckle is the leader among berries in terms of magnesium content. For the nervous and cardiovascular systems
—
this is a very valuable microelement.
From diseases
The plant is often susceptible to viral and fungal diseases. One of the reasons for this is the wrong site for planting. It should be protected from the wind and open to sunlight.
Fungal diseases include:
- Frostbreakers. This disease affects the shoots of the bush. After winter, bacteria (saprotrophic) form in the cracks of the bush. As a result, the shoots dry out if treatment is not taken in time. The main method of combating frostbite is pruning the affected shoots. To remove a fungal infection, the bushes must be treated with Bordeaux mixture. This should be done immediately after the bushes bloom.
- Tubercularosis. Red bumps form on the shoots. The disease gradually spreads throughout the plant, can live on it for a long period, persists even in severe frosts, after which it continues to harm the bushes. At the first sign of infection, infected shoots should be removed. In order to avoid this disease, it is necessary to spray the bushes with copper oxychloride or Bordeaux mixture for preventive purposes. The procedure must be carried out in the spring, after flowering.
- Blackening of branches. The infection affects withered branches. The plant must be treated with Bordeaux mixture in early spring. This procedure can also be carried out after the bushes have flowered.
- European cancer. Infection occurs at the sites of open wounds. This disease is typical for warm and dry climates. Regular watering of honeysuckle is effective in the fight against European cancer. In addition, it is necessary to promptly remove infected branches.
- Ramulariasis. One of the most dangerous diseases for honeysuckle. Affects the leaves of bushes. As a result, the plant is greatly weakened due to loss of nutrients. At the first signs, the plant must be sprayed with fungicides. Liquids based on copper sulfate are effective.
- Leaf spotting. The leaves are covered on both sides with reddish-olive spots. Regular pruning of branches and removal of fallen leaves helps fight this infection. You can spray the bushes with all of the above means after the bushes bloom.
- Powdery mildew. The infection occurs due to lack of regular watering. It affects leaves in the form of white and gray spots. As a preventive measure, regular boiling water works well. It is necessary to thoroughly water the plant with it, especially the affected areas. The procedure must be carried out early in the morning.
Viral diseases are also very dangerous for honeysuckle. These include:
- Rhea mosaic virus. The cause of this disease is often the spread of roundworms on the plant. In addition, gardeners are faced with disease due to purchased low-quality seedlings. Axillary buds awaken on the plant, internodes shorten and lateral shoots actively grow. As a result, the honeysuckle bushes dry out. Affected branches must be removed and destroyed off-site to avoid re-infection.
- Leaf mottling. Brown spots appear on the leaves, which have an arched or streaked shape. To prevent the spread of this disease, it is necessary to carry out phytosanitary pruning of the plant. Infected parts of the bushes must be burned at the stake.
From pests
As for insect pests, the situation here is much better. Honeysuckle grows and ripens very quickly. The early harvest period allows you to preserve the fruits from insects. But some pests can invade bushes after harvest, thereby spreading to neighboring plants. Pests can be:
- aphid;
- caterpillars;
- mealybugs.
In the fight against insects, it is necessary to use standard treatment methods (spraying with insecticides, folk remedies).
Applying mineral and organic fertilizers in early spring will effectively help get rid of unwanted insects. Important! If ladybugs or lacewings, which are beneficial predatory insects, are artificially introduced into the garden, the number of pests will be significantly reduced.
How to get rid of aphids on edible honeysuckle: what to spray with?
Aphids are a common pest of honeysuckle. It often happens that a shrub affected by aphids gets sick several times during the season. The insect, in turn, infects the plant en masse with its several generations. Because of aphids, the bush weakens, because aphids feed and suck out all the juice from the young shoots of honeysuckle and leaves.
IMPORTANT: The most effective remedy against aphids, in addition to special chemical sprays designed for insects, is an infusion of tobacco dust. You need to add a solution of laundry soap to it (a piece of 100 per 10-liter bucket). This product must cover the plant completely and on all sides (it is important to spray in dry weather).
How to choose fertilizers for different varieties
The rules for feeding honeysuckle are the same for all varieties of this plant - with the caveat that we are talking specifically about a fruit bush, and not an ornamental shrub, that is, the ultimate goal is to obtain a large harvest of large, sweet and, if possible, shelf-stable fruits, and not just to decorate the garden plot .
Some adjustments to the fertilizer application schedule may occur depending on the following factors:
- initial composition and condition (fertility) of the soil;
- climatic conditions in which the shrub is grown;
- plant age, etc.
The characteristics of the honeysuckle variety can only slightly influence the composition and dosage of fertilizing. For example, the higher the initial yield indicators, the more intense the fertilizing should be; for varieties prone to fruit shedding, you can slightly increase the dose of nitrogen fertilizers, etc.
How to dig up branches of edible honeysuckle and root them with cuttings?
For planting, cuttings should be prepared when they have already begun to become woody. Be careful, the tops of the branches should be grassy and the berries are about to ripen. This feature will allow the cuttings to take root well.
IMPORTANT: It is best to take the petiole from the top of the branch; the flower buds must be removed. A cutting needs 2-3 buds and 1-3 internodes (the cut should be made obliquely 1 cm above the node).
Before you start propagating from cuttings, you should know that not all cuttings take root. You can speed up root formation on a cutting by first scratching it a little and treating it with a special “stimulating” solution.
Honeysuckle cuttings should be carried out in a greenhouse or nursery for greater efficiency. The soil with planted cuttings should be sprinkled with a mixture of peat and sand. The deepening should be made no more than 2 cm. The cuttings are covered with polyethylene on supports (greenhouse). Water the cuttings generously, avoiding drying out. After the greenhouse, the cuttings should be planted in the ground. To do this, prepare a place on the site in advance. Protect the seedlings from wind and draft.
Honeysuckle cuttings
Edible honeysuckle: growing secrets and advice from “experienced” people
Important and useful 10 secrets for successfully growing honeysuckle:
- Choose the right variety (focus on the characteristics of the variety and your land plot).
- Cross-pollinate honeysuckle (plant several varieties at once for a harvest).
- Attract pollinating insects (for example, bees and bumblebees - they will significantly increase the fertility of shrubs).
- Combine varieties (for bush fertility)
- Properly organize the honeysuckle planting site (observe all soil requirements).
- Do not allow the honeysuckle crown to be very dense (reduces the plant's fertility).
- Prepare the holes correctly and plant the plant (with the full range of fertilizers).
- Water the plant generously during fruiting period
- Mulch the soil after the harvest season (for winter)
- Feed the plant well (organic and nitrogen fertilizers).
Is it necessary to cover edible honeysuckle for the winter?
Honeysuckle is a frost-resistant crop (even down to -50 degrees), but still some varieties are whimsical and do not have such endurance. If your winters are cold (-40, -50 degrees), you can insulate your shrubs to protect them from frosty weather.
IMPORTANT: More cover is required for decorative varieties of honeysuckle, and not for edible ones.
How to make a shelter:
- Remove supports from branches
- Bend the branches to the ground, attach them with wire or a stapler (special gardening device).
- It’s good to lay the branches on the peat
- Cover the branches with spruce branches
IMPORTANT: Honeysuckle bark can become an attractive winter food for rodents and birds. Therefore, if there is such a need, cover the bushes with special garden nets or synthetic bags.
Honeysuckle in winter
Difference between fertilizers for ornamental and fruit species
Ornamental shrubs do not require annual phosphorus supplements. Mineral nutrients are added to the soil in the following order:
- end of March - potato decoction at the root 1 time (optional);
- mid-April - nitrogen solutions are applied once every 2 weeks for a month for better flowering;
- end of June - phosphorus granules 1 time (optional);
- end of August – potassium mixtures 1 time.
Fruit crops need phosphorus, as it is involved in the growth and ripening of fruits. Mineral nutrients are added using the above technology with the following amendments:
- end of June and beginning of July - phosphorus supplements once every 2 weeks for 1 month.
Organic fertilizers are not mixed with mineral ones. Transfer from one substance to another is carried out with the onset of a new growing season.