How to properly care for grapes in spring?

When do you start caring for grapes in the spring?

Spring grape care includes a whole range of work, the timing of which depends on the climate, specific weather conditions and the method of wintering the grapes.

The signal for the start of spring work is the cessation of night frosts. To release the grapes from shelter, wait until the average daily temperature exceeds 5 °C. As soon as stable warm weather sets in, the grapes are opened and the spring work begins.

What you need to know about the beginning of spring care:

• You can begin pruning uncovered grapes as early as early March, as soon as weather conditions allow.
• Pruning must be completed before the buds swell, otherwise the trimmed bushes will dry out.
• At the beginning of March you can also start feeding. Moreover, it is not necessary to open the covering grapes for this.

In the middle zone, varieties that can withstand frosts down to minus 32 °C are not covered. In the south, grapes with frost resistance down to minus 25 °C are grown without shelter.

Consequences of early and late opening of grapes

If you remove the shelter early, before the air warms up and the soil thaws, under the influence of the sun’s heat, the above-ground part of the vine will begin to wake up and the buds will begin to swell. But since the conditions for stable sap flow are unfavorable, the plant does not have enough nutrients for the formation of fruit buds. The vine will awaken, but the yield will be low. In addition, there is a high probability that during return frosts the vineyard will freeze.

When the opening is delayed, the earth has time to thaw and nutrients begin to flow from the root system to the above-ground part. The shelter heats up under the sun's rays, and as a result, the awakened buds overheat. Oxygen is not supplied, high humidity causes rotting. The vine may die.

Inspecting the grapes and eliminating possible problems

Visually examining the grape bushes, they identify damage acquired by the grapes during wintering. Some problems can be solved on the spot, others require radical action - dead bushes have to be replaced.

If the vine has dried out or has dried out

Frequent temperature changes that accompany winter thaws lead to damage to the shoots. Annual vines are especially often affected. Damage options:

• The vine has dried up. The bark of the shoots is cracked. If you lift a shoot to tie it up, a clearly audible crunch is heard.
• The vine fell. Rotted shoots are wet to the touch, they are darker than others - they look like damp wood. The bark may have a whitish coating and mold.

Such damage is not a reason to uproot the bush. Try to fix the situation:

• in black roofing felt film (50 x 50 cm), cut a hole in the middle with a diameter of 10 cm;
• open the shoots so that the heel roots appear - dormant buds may well awaken on them and begin to grow;
• cover the seedling with a film, pressing its edges with something heavy, pour water through the hole into the bush (temperature 45-55 °C);
• add a growth stimulator and biofertilizer to the water.

After 1-3 weeks, the result should appear - shoots will begin to grow from the awakened buds.

Sudden spring frosts

For many crops, returning spring frosts pose a huge danger. When frost takes a plant “by surprise” - after the start of sap flow, the consequences can be catastrophic. The vineyard owner risks losing part of the harvest or being left without it altogether. Frost kills all blossoming buds.

The winegrower’s task is to prevent the death of the buds. When the shelter is removed, it is necessary to slow down their opening. To do this, the bushes are sprayed with a solution of iron sulfate. This drug will not only delay the growing season for half a month, but will also prevent the development of many grape diseases.

Problems with condensation under cover

Condensation may accumulate under the shelter due to soil and air moisture. This leads to the appearance of mold and fungus development. If the weather is cold and it is too early to remove the shelter, it is useful to arrange daytime ventilation.

If the option of ventilation is not suitable, and the grapes run the risk of drying out under cover, do this:

• Remove the film. Do this on a warm and sunny day.
• Fill the tree trunk circle with soil. Don't compact it. For one bush, 2 buckets of soil are enough. This procedure is carried out if the vine was not buried for the winter.
• A hill built around the bush will protect the roots of the grapes from spring frosts.
• Pin the vine to the ground and cover it with fiberglass. This lightweight and breathable material will prevent the accumulation of moisture, due to which the shoots become damp and suffer from fungus.

How to open grapes in spring

Regardless of what was used for insulation, it should be removed gradually. To prevent the plant from dying, you need to wait for the optimal temperature. If frost occurs, the start of work should be postponed for a week. The grapes are opened gradually.

Attention!

During return frosts, the soil is covered with mulch - sawdust, dry hay or straw, and a film is thrown over the vine. If weather forecasters promised a long-term cold spell, it is better to quickly build a frame from reinforcement or slats, and stretch the film over it.

Removing winter shelter

The timing and technique of removing the cover depends on the characteristics of the regional climate. If the spring weather is unstable, the bushes are opened gradually. As soon as the temperature reaches above zero, holes are made in the covering material for ventilation. When a green cone appears, the shelter is removed.

Swollen buds are not a reason to remove the cover. A clear signal is the appearance of shoots on the vine.

If bushes grow in lowlands or trenches, make narrow grooves to drain water. If you don’t dig them, you will have to scoop up water from under the bushes, otherwise the roots will rot.

When and how to open a grape bush in early spring, you can see in the video below:

How and when to open a vineyard after wintering?

The shelter is removed from the vineyard only after a stable above-zero temperature has been established and the top layer of soil has dried.

Untimely removal of grapes from under the shelter threatens buds sprouting under the bush and breaking the vine during tying it up.

One of the signals that the optimal time to remove the cover has come is the condition of the vine. If there are sprouting shoots and not swollen sprouts, this means that everything is in order and you can safely remove the protection.

Remember that immediately after removing the cover, you need to warm up the ground around the bush as soon as possible and awaken the root system. This is done by watering with warm water and mulching with black film.

Opening in the southern regions

There is practically no risk of damage to the vineyard by late spring frosts, so feel free to remove the protection provided the average daily temperature is not lower than +5 degrees Celsius.

Opening in the northern regions

In such areas, it is strongly recommended to open the plant not all at once, but gradually. This reduces the risk that it will suffer from cold and also allows it to adapt to temperature conditions.

Give the vineyard the so-called ventilation and wait for a green cone to appear. Only after this can the protection be completely removed.

How to successfully overwinter a plant?

After winter, be sure to evaluate the condition of the vineyard. One of the most common problems is the death of a huge number of eyes.

To reduce the risk of bush death, it is recommended:

• plant grape varieties that have high frost resistance;
• optimally form plants and plant them correctly;
• cover in a timely manner for the winter;
• provide feeding;
• open the protection in time in the spring.

Garter

One of the first activities for caring for grapes in the spring is tying up the shoots. Dry tying of the fruiting parts to the trellises is carried out before the formation of green leaves and shoots.

If you are late with the garter, the following problems are possible:

• damage by insects and diseases;
• complication of bush formation;
• drop in yield and deterioration in the taste of berries.

For garters, use soft fabric, twine or special devices - they can be bought in specialized stores. It is prohibited to use fishing line and nylon ropes for gartering.

Features of garter grapes in spring:

• For young bushes - up to two years old, place a mesh or a small vertical support. The vine crawls along the mesh on its own; it is tied to a peg as it grows.

• Fruitful branches are bent to the bottom row of trellises so that green shoots have the opportunity to grow upward. Further gartering will be done as the shoots grow - every two weeks.

Grafting and pollination

When caring for grapes in the spring, grafting and pollination of the plant are considered important agrotechnical techniques. Each procedure has its own characteristics and purpose.

Grafting work

To obtain new plant varieties, experienced gardeners graft it. In addition, this allows you to increase the bush’s resistance to unfavorable conditions and diseases. Usually, fastidious varieties of grapes are grafted onto their more hardy relatives. The first thing you need to do is get cuttings for the scion. They are harvested in October-November, after the harvest. On the selected bush, chibuki measuring 9–12 cm are cut (each part should have 2–3 buds). It is important to take the tops of healthy vines. In this case, the upper cut is made smooth, and the lower one is slightly beveled.

The finished grafting material is placed for 30 seconds in a 3% solution of ferrous sulfate. After that, let it air dry. Dry grape cuttings are wrapped in damp cloth or cellophane and stored in a cool place at a temperature of no more than +5 ˚С. Vaccination begins in the spring. The procedure is carried out in April or May, in not hot weather (air temperature is +15 ˚С).

There are several methods of grafting a plant - splitting into an underground trunk, underground butt grafting, budding. It will be easier for beginning winegrowers to master the first method. The algorithm of actions is as follows:

1. The prepared chibouks are sharpened and dipped into a solution of a growth stimulator (for example, Epin or Kornevin) for a couple of days.
2. The selected rootstock (the stem on which the stems will be grafted) is cleared of excess roots and bark, and then dug in to a depth of 15 cm.
3. A cleft is made in the center of the scion trunk. Its depth should correspond to the size of the tip of the chibouk (3 – 4 cm).
4. A cutting is inserted inside. If the thickness of the stem allows, you can insert another shank on the other side of the split;
5. The scion is tightly wrapped with twine and lubricated with garden pitch or clay. You can also wrap the grafting site with a piece of fabric or stretch film.
6. The dug hole is filled with soil. Now the new bush should be hilled up and watered abundantly. As the soil dries, watering and loosening around the plant is repeated.

In two weeks, young shoots should grow. If this does not happen, you need to cut the rootstock at the grafting site and repeat everything again. It is important to monitor how the cuttings take root and remove unnecessary roots (which grow past the rootstock) in a timely manner.

If cuttings are performed on old grapes, it is recommended to leave shoots. In the future, some of them will be cut off.

For successful grafting with cuttings, you should use a well-sharpened sterile instrument. The cut points on the plant should remain open for a short period of time. 3-5 leaves must be left above the grafting. In the future, they will serve as a kind of pump: the junction will receive nutrients.

Additional pollination

Sometimes, when caring for grapes in the spring, artificial pollination is required. This is done twice: when 50% of the buds bloom and during full flowering. The procedure is carried out in the morning, after the moisture has evaporated, and is completed before noon. In sunny and calm weather, winegrowers work until the evening.

The tools you will need are a fur puff. It is made from winter fur of a hare or rabbit. Then they are cleaned, disinfected and fixed with nails on a wooden blade. You will also need a glass jar. Before starting work, the container is treated with boiling water and dried.

Pollination is carried out as follows: pollen is shaken off the inflorescences of bisexual flowers into a prepared container. Then the substance is collected with a puff and applied to the desired inflorescences.

Irrigation schemes

The grapes are watered for the first time in order to awaken them and stimulate growth. On the other hand, watering slightly slows down the opening of buds - this prevents them from being damaged by frost. Water the bushes with warm water. On the eve of severe frosts, the grapes are given moisture recharge with cold water.

Features of watering grapes in spring:

• An adult grape bush requires 200-300 liters of water. Water, penetrating into the deep layers of the soil, will nourish the roots for several months.
• The next waterings are not so abundant - 20-30 liters per bush. The interval between watering is 8-10 days.
• The second water-recharging irrigation is carried out at the end of spring - 3 weeks before flowering.
• Water is poured into holes near the stems - at a distance of half a meter, or grooves 20 cm deep are dug.
• It is recommended to combine watering with fertilizing. To do this, special watering holes are installed in the ground or a drip irrigation system is installed.

Before and during flowering, you should not water the grapes abundantly - many flowers may fall off.

Drainage holes made around the perimeter of the rhizome allow you to effectively moisten the grapes. How to build an irrigation system:

• Drill 4 holes on different sides of the bush - one meter deep.
• The distance from the bush to the holes is determined by the length of the roots; it leaves 50-80 cm.
• Place a 200 liter barrel on a raised surface. Connect a hose to it. Attach an adapter to the end of the hose and attach 4 tubes.

This watering system allows you to water the bush quickly and thoroughly. This method is especially good at the initial stage of the growing season.

Watering grapes

The intensity of watering depends on whether a grape shelter was used or not. If the soil has been protected with any material, it must be thoroughly moistened 14 days after planting the vine. In the future, watering is carried out as the soil dries out. It is especially important before flowering begins (in May).

Open ground is more demanding for watering work. The plant should be moistened weekly until mid-July. During this period, fruit formation occurs. Water consumption per bush ranges from ½ to 1 bucket. Next, the intensity of watering is reduced so that the seedling’s immunity is strengthened before the coming winter.

On large plantings of the crop, it is advisable to carry out drip irrigation and underground watering of grapes in the spring. These methods are characterized by high efficiency. They are also most effective in the summer. For example, with drip irrigation, moisture does not fall on the foliage of the bushes, which is especially important in hot weather. Under the scorching rays of the sun, the drops turn into peculiar lenses and can cause burns on the plant. As a result, grapes will become more susceptible to various diseases and less resistant to negative environmental factors.

When and how to mulch the soil?

Mulching involves covering the soil with different materials. This is done to improve the properties of the soil. Benefits of mulching:

• the formation of an earthen crust is prevented;
• the soil retains moisture well;
• the roots are protected from overheating and drying out;
• the soil remains loose for a long time;
• when it rains and waters, soil particles that may contain pathogens do not fall on the leaves;
• the lower clusters remain clean after rain and are less covered with dust;
• the wind carries away particles of fertile soil;
• organic mulch is also a fertilizer that forms humus over time;
• weed growth is prevented;
• the vineyard looks more attractive.

Mulching is a simple and inexpensive process. It is carried out in the spring, after moisture-recharging irrigation. Various materials are used as mulch. The soil is sprinkled with straw, wood chips, sawdust, bark, pine needles, cones and other suitable materials.

Possible problems after overwintering

Outdoor vineyards require assessment after winter. In winter, especially in the presence of significant low-temperature indicators, most often on table grape varieties that are characterized by insufficient frost resistance, the death of a large number of eyes can be observed. As a result, it is necessary to leave a significant number of eyes when pruning, which will ensure a full load on the grapevine in the spring.

Recently, many winegrowers are experiencing difficulties with overwintering grapes even in conditions of not too severe winters, which is due to climate change, temperature changes and a decrease in the height of snow cover in most regions. One of the most dangerous natural phenomena for a vineyard is the alternation of frosts with prolonged thaws. Such temperature changes are especially destructive for grapes in early spring.

The plants will ensure the most successful wintering:

• selection of varieties and hybrids with increased frost resistance and winter hardiness;
• competent planting of grape seedlings;
• frost-resistant rootstocks;
• optimal plant formation;
• reliable and timely shelter of the vineyard for the winter;
• timely opening of the vineyard in the spring;
• high-quality watering and fertilizing of bushes, catarrh;
• rationing of bushes by shoots and bunches with reasonable intensity.

Only compliance with the entire range of agrotechnical measures will reduce the risk of the grapevine freezing in winter and the root system being damaged by rot in the spring.

Feeding and fertilizing

For spring fertilizing, organic and mineral fertilizers are used. Grapes can be fed with cow or horse manure, chicken manure, compost, complex fertilizers with nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Fertilizer is poured into furrows 40 cm deep - they are made around the trunks at a distance of 50-80 cm.

Timing and composition of grape feeding in spring:

Spring feeding

The need of grapes for minerals changes during the growing season. Therefore, fertilizing is carried out purposefully, adding only the nutrients needed at the moment to the soil. In spring, the plant's primary need is nitrogen. This is a necessary element for the development of the green mass of the bush. Spring feeding is carried out in two stages.

The first stage is before the opening of the winter hut. The second is on the eve of flowering. The composition of the feeding is one:

• superphosphate (20 g);
• ammonium nitrate (10 g);
• potassium salt (5 g);
• water (10 liters).

An additional source of nutrients is manure and chicken droppings. In addition to containing useful elements, manure improves soil aeration. It also creates a favorable environment for the development of microorganisms that help roots absorb fertilizers. Slurry is used at the rate of 1 kg per 1 m2.

A solution is prepared from chicken manure, which is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10. Each bush should have 1 liter. Composition of the solution: 1 part litter and 4 parts water. Infuse for a week.

Trimming

Grapes are very heat-loving, so the vine often freezes even under cover. In spring, two types of pruning are carried out:

• Sanitary. They start working on it right away, removing the cover. Damaged and dead shoots are found and immediately cut off.
• Formative. After sanitary pruning, the formation of the bush begins. This trimming is aimed at adjusting the length of the cordons and sleeves.

In order for the cuts to heal faster, they are made even, smooth, and neat. When cutting old branches into a ring, the stump should be small - no more than 1 cm in height.

Cuts are made on the inside of the bush. 4 buds should be left on the branches, 12-14 on the fruit shoots. Be sure to remove all root shoots so that they do not draw on the nutrients and strength of the plant.

Proper pruning is the key to a high yield, proper development of the vine and good taste of the berries.

Pruning and shaping grapes

Caring for grapes in the spring is not complete without pruning. It ensures a uniform supply of nutrients and moisture to all parts of the plant. However, this is a rather painful manipulation for the bush, as it is accompanied by the infliction of a large number of “wounds”. To mitigate the negative impact, a novice winegrower should adhere to the following recommendations:

• for thin vines use pruning shears, and for thick ones (more than 8 cm) use a hacksaw;
• focus the tool on the part of the plant that is being removed;
• the diameter of the cuts should be minimal;
• Place the cutting part of the tool on the side of the branch that is being left. This will provide the shoot with an even cut;
• garden tools must be disinfected, sharpened and lubricated with machine oil. This way, pruning grape bushes will be done quickly and painlessly.

After the fattening vines of the plant are removed with a hacksaw, they need to be trimmed with pruning shears. Due to this, the surface of the wounds will become smooth and heal faster. If this step is skipped, moisture will be retained on the cuts. Over time, this will provoke the development of fungal infections and other dangerous diseases.

Professionals advise pruning and further care of grapes in the spring before the sap begins to flow (in early April). First of all, the bushes are thinned out by eliminating weak, dried out and diseased shoots. This will limit the loss of nutrients and water to healthy plant stems. Thick branches should be carefully tilted towards the tool and the cut should be made with a quick sliding motion. It is important to ensure that the branches are not compressed when pruning.

Mature bushes (2 years old or more) are trimmed by 60%. Experienced winegrowers recommend shortening them by 5 eyes. To ensure that the cuts on perennial shoots of the plant are small, maximum effort must be made during work. Otherwise, the plant tissue will die. If the grape vines are harvested at the base in the spring, you will need to leave stumps 5 mm in size.

After pruning the bushes, all “sleeves” of the crop should have a shortened part of last year’s vine with several shoots. As for the replacement knot, it is cut into 3–4 buds. The fruiting arrow is shortened by a maximum of 6 eyes. The fruiting of grapes depends on these branches, therefore, it is advisable to carry out the work extremely carefully.

Graft

The grafting is done in order to improve yield, increase frost resistance and immunity. For grafting, cuttings 10-15 cm long are used. They should have 2-3 eyes. They are cut in the fall and stored until spring, having previously been dipped in a solution of potassium permanganate, dried and wrapped in film. Store them in the cellar or in the refrigerator.

In order for spring grafting to be successful, varieties that have the same growth vigor are grafted. Only disinfected instruments are used. Grapes are grafted end-to-end, by copulation, by splitting or half-splitting.

Pruning for fruiting

In the fourth year of life, the grape bush is fully formed. In subsequent years, pruning is carried out for sanitary purposes in order to free the bush from old or diseased shoots and concentrate energy on the development of fruit-bearing vines.

In more fun times, adult shrubs are inspected for frozen shoots and signs of disease. Weak and diseased shoots are removed. It is important to cut the shoot at a right angle, so the area of ​​damage to the wood will be minimal.

Old dried vines must be removed. Checking a woody vine is easy. A dry branch breaks easily even with a slight bend. If the bush is healthy, then the number of dry shoots does not exceed 15%. A completely dried out bush or a large number of dried shoots indicates a problem with the root system. Most often, the roots freeze or rot. You can check their condition by digging a little under the bush. Such a plant is uprooted and cannot be resuscitated.

After pruning an adult bush, the soil around it is sanitized to prevent the appearance of parasites. Insecticidal preparations are used (karbofos, oxychome, nitrophen, Bordeaux mixture).

Disease Prevention

Preventive measures in spring:

• To prevent mildew infection, immediately tie the vine to the trellis after the cover is removed. Leaves and shoots should not be allowed to touch the ground and absorb moisture - this contributes to the spread of infections.
• After gartering, the soil is disinfected. The soil in tree trunk circles is treated with Bordeaux mixture, iron sulfate, Zineb or Ridomil Gold. Preference is given to the latter drug - it is the least toxic. The lower branches of the grapes are sprayed especially carefully - the root zone is most affected by diseases. Bushes can also be sprayed with biological products - Fitosporin, Trichodermin, Actofit.

Preventive spraying is carried out at intervals of 10-15 days or as recommended by the manufacturer of the drug.

Find out more information about how, when and what to spray grapes in the spring on the pages of our website.

Formation of a bush and garter of grapes

In the spring, only young grape bushes up to three years old are pruned or for certain indications. The procedure is needed in order to facilitate their care, increase productivity, rejuvenate the plant and improve its nutrition with the necessary nutrients.

Recommendations for spring pruning of grape bushes:

1. If damaged after wintering, up to 75% of the vine shoots are cut off, leaving 15 buds.
2. If more than 75% of the shoots are damaged, only old and damaged branches are cut off.
3. If all the buds die, but the tissues are healthy, 2 buds are removed from all branches.
4. When both buds and tissues die completely, the entire above-ground part of the plant is cut off. The bush needs to be restored using root grafting.

Important! During pruning in the spring, sap flow is observed in the vines, which stops itself after a month or is stopped forcibly - using special preparations (for example, Etisso), methods of coating, cauterization or pulling.

Pruning is carried out with special disinfected scissors or pruners, which make it less traumatic. First, a sanitary procedure is carried out, and after that a formative procedure. For each variety there are separate recommendations on how best to form a bush.

After pruning and the first preventive treatment, the grapes will need to be secured to the trellis using the “dry” garter method, according to how the formation of the bush is intended. Tying is done with fabric strips. Annual vines are tied in a horizontal position, fruiting arrows - in a vertical position.

Pest treatment

The fight against insects usually begins after they appear. Insecticides are used. But preventive spraying is also carried out. So, with the help of Nitrofen you can destroy almost any parasites. For prevention, the bushes are sprayed with Nitrofen, diluting 200 g of the drug in 10 liters of water.

The most dangerous pests for grapes are phylloxera, mealybugs and spider mites. For prevention, grapes are sprayed with Karbofos. Per 100 sq. m use 15 liters of solution. To prepare it, 60 g of the drug is dissolved in 8 liters of water. You can destroy phylloxera when it appears using the drugs Zolon, Actelik or Confidor.

Disease Control

Like many fruit and berry crops, grapes are susceptible to attacks from fungal, viral and bacterial diseases. Each season, losses are about 30%, and with poor protection of bushes, these numbers increase to 50%.

The most dangerous infections and methods to combat them are presented in the following table.

Transfer

To replant grapes, you have to take into account the size of the root system. The depth of the roots is 60 cm. The procedure for transplanting grapes is:

• Dig up the plant within a radius of half a meter.
• Remove the bush from the ground. If the roots have grown very deep, cut them off.
• Clean the extracted rhizome from the soil. Dip the roots into a clay mash.
• Fill the hole dug for planting with warm water - 10 liters.
• Pour sand, clay and crushed stone into the hole.
• Immerse the plant's roots in the hole and cover them with fertile soil.

To improve the survival rate of grapes and enrich the soil with iron, 200 g of barley and two rusty nails are placed in the planting hole.

If a young plant is transplanted, it is moved into the planting hole along with an earthen lump - using the transshipment method.

Opened grapes after winter: what to do next

Early spring is a time when sudden temperature changes and unpredictable weather changes are common. Therefore, choosing the right moment to remove winter protection from sheltering grape varieties is very important. As mentioned above, protection is removed when the average temperature during the week remains above 5 °C.

Inspecting the grapes and eliminating possible problems

When you start working with grapevines in the spring, you must first conduct a visual inspection. In this case, you can find that wintering was not easy for the plant. Upon inspection, you may find dried or damaged parts of the plant. Sometimes it may happen that the bush has died and needs to be replaced.

During inspection you may encounter the following problems:

• Dried vine. If you pick it up from the ground, you can clearly hear the crunch.
• The propped up vine. It is easy to identify by touch: the shoots are wet and look like thoroughly wet wood. They look darker than others. Unfortunately, the matter is not limited to this; white spots of mold can often be distinguished.

Caring for grapes in the spring after winter includes improving the health of such shoots.

Grapes on trellises

What to do if the grapes are dry or damp

In these cases, there is no need to get rid of the bushes. In order to correct the situation, you need to do the following for the vine on which the shoots are located:

• Prepare a sheet of roofing material for each of them measuring 50x50 cm.
• It requires cutting a hole for the bush.
• The leaf must be placed on the ground so that the vine passes through the hole.
• A biostimulator is added to warm water for irrigation (40-50 degrees).
• The vine needs to be watered regularly, avoiding overwatering.

Stopping the "crying vine"

“Vine weeping” refers to the flow of sap from the cuttings left after pruning. If juice production is moderate, there is no need to do anything - this is a normal process for grapes, indicating good metabolism and health of the plant.

The volume of liquid released when “crying” depends on the size of the bush and is 0.3-2 liters. With prolonged and abundant sap flow, the soil becomes depleted and dehydrated, so it is stopped if necessary.

How to stop juice production:

• Apply 5-10 g of complex non-mineral fertilizers to the trunk circle of all grape bushes.
• Thoroughly loosen the soil and water the plants.

Formation of a grape bush

The time for pruning comes immediately after the winter shelter has been removed. If for a given variety it is possible that it will not be available during the winter, then it is done as early as possible, provided that the weather is warm enough. It is important to complete this treatment before buds begin to form on the vine. Otherwise, this may lead to drying out of the branches.

Trimming

Grape garter

In early spring, a garter is done. It must be completed immediately with the start of spring work. Otherwise:

• the risk of dangerous diseases increases;
• the formation of bushes will be difficult;
• the quality and size of the harvest may be reduced.

To make a garter, pieces of soft fabric, twine, and special devices that can be purchased in specialized stores on the advice of experts are suitable.

Attention! It is not allowed to tie grape shoots with nylon threads or fishing line.

For mature plants, trellises should be installed. The shoots are first attached to the lower level. As they grow, they are fixed to higher ones. Experienced gardeners inspect the plant every two weeks and make the necessary changes in the garter for the correct formation of the bush.

Table of step-by-step agricultural activities by month

Spring work is carried out in a certain sequence. The timing and subtleties of agrotechnical measures are adjusted taking into account the characteristics of the local climate.

Spring work calendar:

Protection against return frosts

Even in the south in the spring, plantings run the risk of frost, the weather is so unpredictable. What can we say about grapes grown in risky farming zones: in the regions of Siberia, the Urals, the North-West, as well as central Russia.

Cold weather is especially dangerous if buds begin to bloom on the shoots. If the forecast predicts a cold snap, it is recommended to treat the bushes with a solution of iron sulfate (1%). This will slow down the growing season of the plant without any consequences for the grapes.

Gardeners also build light shelters: they put up arcs with non-woven material, and spill cold water on the plantings.

Features of spring care depending on regions

Spring care depends on climatic conditions. The timing and order of agrotechnical measures are influenced by humidity, temperature, soil structure and other factors.

Features of spring grape care in different regions:

• Middle zone and Moscow region. Spring starts late here. There is a risk of return frosts. There is no need to rush to remove the shelter; it is removed at the end of April. First remove the top coating, then the rest. Carry out sanitary pruning. After 10 days - feeding. The frequency of fertilizing is every two weeks until fruiting. Local soils lack magnesium. The soil is mulched and watered occasionally if there is no rain. A local feature is waterlogging of the soil, which promotes the spread of fungi. To prevent disease, it is recommended to tie the vines to trellises.
• Volga region. The shelter is removed at the end of April or even at the beginning of May.
  Removing the shelter right away is dangerous, as there remains a risk of night frosts. The grapes continue to be covered at night. An option is to install an arc frame onto which the film is stretched. In such a temporary greenhouse, the grapes quickly awaken. Gradually removing the cover allows you to painlessly and safely awaken and adapt the plant. After opening, the bushes are sprayed, protecting them from fungi and insects. Watering is rare but plentiful; fertilizers are added when loosening.
• Siberia. Only the most winter-hardy varieties with early ripening are cultivated here. Usually white and pink hybrids are planted in Siberia, since dark grapes simply do not have time to ripen. In the Siberian climate, grapes are grown only in greenhouses. The soil here is light and well aerated. With the onset of spring, the grapes are fed with complex mineral compounds. It is important not to overdo it with nitrogen fertilizers - their excess leads to intensive growth of leaves and shoots, which is harmful to flowering and fruit formation. Grape pruning in the spring is carried out only for sanitary purposes; the formation of the bush is postponed until the fall.
• Ural. Here the climate is less severe than in Siberia, but it is still unfavorable for grapes. Frost-resistant varieties that are hardy and disease-resistant are grown in the Urals. The shelter is not removed until May - the bushes are protected from frost. The grapes are opened after the onset of stable heat - when the temperature does not drop below 13-15 degrees Celsius. Before fully opening, the grapes are ventilated to prevent condensation from accumulating. The shelter is opened slightly during the day and closed at night. Pruning is regular, but not severe.
• Crimea. Here the vine is not covered for the winter, so it does not have to be removed from the trellis. Pruning begins in February. In the south, it is important to control soil moisture, as lack of water causes the vines to dry out quickly.

The fate of the harvest largely depends on spring care. If each agrotechnical activity is carried out correctly and on time, all the prerequisites for a full harvest will be created. It is especially important to remove the cover in time; if you rush, the plants will suffer irreparable damage.

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Basic rules of care in spring

Sudden changes in temperature can harm the plant. Therefore, carefully inspect the vineyard and do the following:

1. Make sure the vine is not dead and the eyes are not dead.
2. Form the plant correctly, leaving the optimal number of eyes.
3. Perform pruning and then tying up the bushes.
4. Get vaccinated.

Pruning and shaping the bush

The formation of the future bush directly depends on its condition and the degree of damage after winter. After a thorough examination, the gardener needs to draw up an approximate pruning diagram:

1. When 3/4 of the shoots of the bush have been frozen, remove all old and dead parts of the grapes.
2. If a smaller amount of vegetative mass is damaged, only unnecessary parts are cut off and 5 to 15 eyes are left on each shoot.
3. When all the buds have frozen, the shoots are removed, leaving only a few buds.
4. If the above-ground part is frozen, it is all removed, and the vine, in turn, is restored using grafting.

You can see how a grape bush is correctly formed in the spring in the following video:

Stepsoning

To form a beautiful, fertile bush that produces large, tasty berries, be sure to do pinching. The meaning of the procedure is that the gardener removes excess shoots that have grown. After this, the bush becomes denser and more fertile.

Stepping is carried out approximately a month after the main pruning.

Stopping the "crying vine"

When a vine is pruned while it is waking up, a specific liquid is released from it. Gardeners call this phenomenon “crying vines.” The process itself is an intense release of moisture, which occurs from breaks and cuts. This lasts from several days to a month, after which it stops on its own.

“Crying” is a signal that the plant’s root system is in good condition. However, watch this process, because excessive leakage of liquid leads to weakening and drying out of the crop due to loss of beneficial properties and moisture.

To stop excessive fluid secretion:

• Coat the wounds with a mixture of red lead, chalk and boric acid. There is also a ready-made special balm for cuts on sale.
• Use the method of burning the top layer of the vine, which helps stop the release of liquid.
• Tie the vineyard vines with wire.

If you apply early watering, loosening and mulching to the vineyards, then gardeners are less likely to encounter problems with excessive “crying vines.”

Garter

Young gardeners often wonder whether it is worth tying up grapes. Yes, this is required. The grape vine grows quite quickly and clings to absolutely everything that gets in its way. If you do not garter in time, problems will arise in the future with processing the plant and harvesting.

If you tie the bushes correctly, this helps the grapes optimally distribute the amount of air and sunlight, as well as establish the process of timely pollination. As a result, the vine develops well and bears fruit.

If we are talking about spring garter (it is also called dry), it is done in early spring, when the cover is removed and sap flow begins. But you need to do it before the buds swell.

The process looks something like this:

1. When high-standard bushes are formed, the shoots are tied to a stake in 2 or 3 places.
2. Those vines that are pruned long and left to bear fruit are usually tied horizontally.

To make tying easier, use a garter cord and loop knitting scissors. The rope itself is made of steel wire and paper winding, which prevents the possibility of damage to the wood.

Spring loosening

Conventionally, the vineyard soil is divided into three layers:

1. The top one is a protective layer in which there is practically no root system. Its main function is to protect plants from external factors (drought and frost).
2. Average. Almost all the roots of the bush are located here. It is on the condition of this ball of soil that the entire subsequent harvest depends.
3. The reserve layer is the lowest rooted layer, where there are practically no roots, only a few deeply penetrating ones, the function of which is to nourish the bush during periods of drought and when the plant cannot be watered (the process of ripening of vines and berries).

It is recommended that the top layer is always loose and free of weeds. This allows the required amount of moisture and air to pass into the lower balls of the earth.

The middle layer is usually not loosened. You can do this once every 3-5 years, and then not completely.

Digging up the vineyard

Remember that in the spring the vineyard is dug up twice:

1. The first digging occurs as soon as you open the protective film after winter. Immediately break up any lumps with a rake and straighten the rows. In this case, the depth of treatment should not exceed 20 cm. Ammonium nitrate is often added under it, which helps ensure rapid growth of shoots.
2. the second digging at a level of 10 cm. The best time to do this is before flowering. It is then that additional microelements are added, which help the bush during the period of setting berries.

Mulching

Mulch is a protective layer around the plant. It contains organic minerals that regulate air and water regimes in the upper globe of the earth. This cover protects the plant from drying out and washing out, preserves the fertility of the bush and its structure.

The benefits of mulching are obvious:

• control of moisture evaporation near the root system;
• protection against temperature extremes;
• the plant receives the desired level of acidity;
• retention of necessary substances prevents their premature leaching;
• reduction of weed growth, which promotes the effective functioning of various microorganisms in the soil;
• reducing the risk of diseases, protection from pests.

What is important to pay attention to:

• Mulch, which was applied to unheated soil, inhibits the process of warming it up, and, accordingly, the development of the plant.
• Before mulching the soil, be sure to water it and level it, and also sprinkle with a small amount of compost (or organic fertilizer).
• In order to compact the structure, experienced gardeners recommend mixing coarse and fine mulching materials.
• Allow the material to dry, especially if you are using weeds and hay.
• The thickness of the mulch should be at least 5 cm, preferably 15-20 cm.

Among the various materials that gardeners use in mulch are:

• Garden compost . This is a fertilizer that is obtained as a result of the decomposition of organic matter (fallen leaves, sawdust, chopped branches, etc.). It is considered one of the best types of mulch, which contains many useful substances and improves soil structure.
• Manure with straw . Rich in phosphorus. It is advisable to mix it with the topsoil, otherwise there is a possibility of loss of nutrients.
• Mown grass and hay . It is recommended to use in small quantities, as the effect of overheating the soil is possible.
• Organics . Husks from rice, buckwheat, wheat and other grain crops are often found on the farm. They can be used as mulch.
• Green manure . This is the green mass of plants that are specially grown for fertilizer. Most often among them are lupine, white mustard, oil radish, alfalfa, sainfoin and clover. The grass is scattered over the surface or mixed with the top ball of soil to achieve maximum effect.
• Eggshell . It perfectly increases soil fertility, enriches it with useful microelements, and reduces acidity. Another benefit of using eggshells as mulch is that it protects your plants from snails and slugs.

The best time to mulch a vineyard is early or late spring and mid-autumn. Remember that more water is used when watering, since it is not so easy to wet the mulch.

Watering

The productivity and durability of the vine directly depends on a sufficient amount of moisture. Gardeners recommend watering the vineyard immediately after removing the cover. A good option is to install a drip irrigation system.

There is no need to water the plant too often. The exception is during the dry season when you find the ground very dry. In general, it is recommended to water the vineyard deeply at intervals of 2-3 weeks, depending on the amount of rainfall. In a season this amounts to up to 10 waterings.

Approximate calendar of recommended watering:

• water for the first time immediately after gartering the shoots;
• the second - when the shoots are 20-30 cm long;
• third – the period before flowering;
• the fourth - after the vineyard blooms;
• the fifth watering is carried out when the berries soften;
• the sixth is carried out approximately 10-15 days after the fifth watering;
• seventh - after full harvest;
• the eighth - before preparing plants for the winter.

Between the main waterings, you can additionally do 1-2 depending on weather conditions.

Feeding

In addition to watering, grapes require fertilizing. The approximate scheme of actions is as follows:

1. After winter, moisten the soil and sprinkle it with woody vines.
2. After a couple of days, when the green cone period begins, treat with a mixture of phosphate fertilizers, as well as urea (30 g per bush).
3. Before flowering, water and fertilize with a special solution that contains:
   a tablespoon of saltpeter;
4. 2 tablespoons of superphosphate;
5. 1 g of potash fertilizer per bush.

For root feeding, the scheme is as follows:

1. Mix 5 tablespoons of nitrate, 4 tablespoons of superphosphate and magnesium, 3 teaspoons of potassium fertilizer.
2. Dissolve the resulting mixture in water.
3. Use a metal piercing pin to make deep holes down to the roots and pour the solution under the root itself.

If you use organic fertilizers, reduce the nitrate rate by 50%.

We recommend that you read the article: “Features and rules for spring feeding of grapes.”

Trimming

The main purpose of pruning grapes is to increase their yield. By removing shoots, you stimulate the growth of fruitful branches. Also in the process, the bush is formed, which allows you to maintain its neat appearance.

There are many techniques for pruning a plant. Here are the main ones:

• Short. The second name for this method is “on a knot”. The main idea is to trim all shoots as short as possible and leave 2-3 eyes on them.
• Average. Here, up to 8 eyes are left on the branch, and about 50 on the bush.
• Long. This type is specifically aimed at increasing fruitfulness, but is not suitable for all grape varieties. Up to 15 eyes are made on each shoot, and no more than 60 on the entire plant. This type of pruning is mainly used for Asian species.
• Mixed. Most popular among gardeners. Includes combining short and long trims. It turns out that some of the shoots are aimed at their constant renewal, the other - at fruitfulness.

To perform any type of pruning, it is necessary to have a good, sharp garden tool.

If we talk about the timing of pruning, there is no specific date. It all depends on the region you are in. In spring, grapes are usually pruned in areas where winters are cold and harsh.

Some tips for beginners:

• It is better to make all cuts towards the inside of the bush. This allows the plant to heal wounds faster.
• The cuts are made in one movement. The surface of the vine should be smooth. When pruning, be careful not to damage perennial shoots.
• The shoots of grapes that you leave for fruiting should not be visually damaged. The required sprout diameter is 12 mm.
• If you want to replace knots, choose those that are closer to the trunk.
• When pruning grapes after planting, two healthy shoots are left.
• During the work, all the vines that were frostbitten after the winter are removed.

Start grafting grapes in spring

If you have grape cuttings prepared in the fall, it’s time to start grafting them. About 2-3 days in advance, remove the cuttings from the cold, sharpen their tips and place them in an immunostimulant solution (Epin, etc.).

Carry out the procedure itself in dry, warm weather (about 15°C), but without the scorching sun. The buds on the rootstock should already have swelled by the time of grafting - most often this happens in April. Spring grafting of grapes can be carried out in various ways: by budding, by splitting into an underground trunk or by underground grafting end-to-end. Read more about this in our next article.

• Grafting grapes - step-by-step instructions for beginners

  Do you want to increase the winter hardiness of grapes or save space on your plot? Achieve this through vaccination.

A method for rejuvenating old bushes

Grapes in Bashkiria - care in spring

It often happens that it is a pity to remove old bushes of good grapes. This bush is valuable for its developed root system. How to care for grapes to preserve a valuable variety? It can be rejuvenated. To do this, the bush is completely cut off at the end (to the stump), and new shoots are waited for. The pruning will quickly recover, the vine will be young. However, if the bush was initially grafted, it will disappear, since it is not rooted.

On a note! If the bush has its own root, it can be grafted onto an old trunk and onto a green bud. The location of the scion must be deepened into the ground to protect it from temperature changes.

Prune the grapevine in spring

After the positive weather becomes stable, prune the grapes - this must be done before the sap begins to flow!

Uncovered grape varieties are pruned even earlier, in March.

First of all, remove broken, frozen and damaged shoots, as well as fruit-bearing, excessively thin and fattening shoots. Then proceed to trim the remaining shoots, leaving 7-12 eyes (buds) on each.

Make cuts with a sharp, disinfected instrument. Make them straight (perpendicular to the branches), even, without leaving splits or burrs.

If the grapevine “cries” a lot after pruning (it releases a large amount of sticky liquid-sap), cover the cut areas with the already mentioned garden paste (RanNet, BlagoSad, Zhivitsa, etc.).

• Pruning grapes in spring - step-by-step instructions with video for beginners

  Simple and visual instructions for spring pruning of grapes.

If you intend to propagate grapes during the season, then during pruning, also cut the woody cuttings and soak them in water with a root formation stimulator dissolved in it (Heteroauxin, Kornevin, KorneStim) for 1-2 days. Then send the rooted cuttings for growing in individual containers.

• How to propagate grapes in spring

  Are you dreaming of a vineyard on your summer cottage? Spring is the best time to propagate grapes.

How to care for grapes in spring for a good harvest

Preparations for spring work begin in February. However, all main activities begin with establishing a stable above-zero temperature. Mandatory spring work includes:

• removing cover;
• pruning shoots;
• first watering;
• feeding;
• garter;
• landing;
• spraying against pests;
• loosening and mulching the soil.

Ignoring even one of these procedures can lead to decreased yields and crop diseases.

Caring for grapes in spring

Removing cover from a vineyard

Depending on the climatic conditions of the region, the vineyard is opened in early April or May. The main thing is that the temperature stays stable at +10 during the day. However, you also need to monitor the night temperature, because awakened buds and shoots can die even at C. Experienced gardeners make small holes in the shelter before the average daily above-zero temperature is established. This way they provide ventilation until the vineyard is completely open.

Late raising of the cover can also cause harm; heat causes the buds to evaporate and germinate under the cover.

On a note! Sprouting shoots indicate that the vineyard can already be opened.

To protect the plant from fungus, mold, and various diseases, it must be treated after opening. This can be done with a solution of potassium permanganate, copper sulfate (300g per 10 liters of water), Bordeaux mixture (3%).

Proper pruning

Starting in March, when above-zero temperatures are established, the first spring pruning of shoots is carried out. Winter-hardy varieties that are not covered for the winter need to be pruned. They start by pruning last year's vines. Broken, unproductive, dried shoots, vines thinner than 5 mm, and diseased wood are subject to complete removal. To ensure smooth ripening of the bunches, the leaves are thinned out.

Spring pruning of grapes

An experienced gardener knows how many branches to cut and how many to leave. The central perennial branches and a couple of young shoots are preserved, the old shoots are cut off. Shoots of 10 or more buds are left.

The cut is made closer to the base. Trim to large buds, leaving 2-3 cm to them.

Note! The pruning shears must be well sharpened.

Everything needs to be done as carefully as possible so as not to damage the plant, weakened after winter.

Katarovka

Along with pruning in the spring, catarrh is performed. This is a root pruning procedure. Only the surface roots belonging to the adventitious root system (located at a depth of 25 cm) are trimmed. The adventitious root system, which begins to grow, takes strength from the deep roots. This increases the likelihood of freezing during the cold season. And in a dry summer, the grape bush can dry out.

Catarovka grapes

Only an experienced gardener can cope with catarrh, beginners should not attempt this. To perform catarosis correctly, you need to adhere to the following scheme:

1. To protect the deep root from damage, a hole about 20-25 cm deep is dug around the bush. You need to dig very carefully.
2. Superficial roots are cut with a sharp knife or pruning shears.
3. Incisions are disinfected with boric acid (1%) or copper sulfate (3%).
4. After the cuts dry, the hole is filled up.

Grape garter

It is carried out to give the bushes a compact appearance and improve light penetration. The procedure allows for pollination of all inflorescences and reduces the incidence of fungus in grapes. The garter is performed on each planting site.

Grape garter

Be sure to garter before the buds open. Otherwise, many of them will break off in the process. However, before this you need to prune all dried branches and lifeless shoots. Gartering grapes in spring includes two stages:

• Main vine garter. The branches are tied horizontally to the bottom wire stretched between the supports.
• Garter green shoots (when the shoots reach 45-55 cm). They are tied vertically, at an angle, using women's tights or scraps of old fabric as material. The vine itself crawls along the support and does not require a garter if a mesh is used as a support, rather than pegs or trellises.

As you grow, the “green” garter is repeated 3-4 times. The subsequent garter procedure is planned for the summer.

Formation of a grape bush

To make caring for grapes as convenient as possible, the plant is formed into bushes using a support. Depending on the length of the sleeves and shoots, several types of formation are distinguished:

• Formation on a wire trellis. Depending on the growth rate of the bushes, the distance between them in the rows is determined. If the distance is small (1.3 m), only one sleeve is formed per bush.
• A compact method is fan forming. It is preferable for medium bush growth, as well as for small distances between bushes. It may vary in the number of sleeves. Its principle is that each fruiting branch is located on its own sleeve. Outwardly, such a bush resembles a fan, which is what the name is connected with.
• Horizontal cordon. Well suited for large-fruited varieties with increased vigor. With this method of formation, significant space is required for the development of bushes. Short sleeves are placed on several long perennial parts of the bush. The number of sleeves is two or more. The number of sleeves depends on whether the flowering is strong, on the characteristics of the grape variety, and on the distance between the bushes. It is advisable that the shoulders of the cordons (perennial parts of the bush) do not exceed 3-4 meters. Since too long cordons are not convenient for winter shelter and spring raising on a trellis.

A vertical cordon is used for growing frost-resistant varieties that remain uncovered all year round. For such a forming system, high arched supports are used. Thus, the vineyard takes the shape of an arch.

After the arched structure is completed, bushes are planted on both sides. The vigor of the variety determines the distance between them. As the bush grows, the young leaf is directed to a vertical and horizontal plane.

Grape rationing

In order not to overload the vine with fruits, it is necessary to correctly determine the rate of crop load on the bush. Normalization is carried out in the spring, breaking out excess shoots of the bush when they begin to grow.

On a note! To remove a young shoot, you need to press your thumb on its base. If the shoot has already outgrown, it is better to use pruners.

General normalization rules:

• normalization is carried out when the shoots just begin to grow, until they reach a length of 4-5 centimeters;
• the first excavation is planned for June (beginning of the month);
• final thinning is carried out after flowering, removing the upper ones and leaving the lower inflorescences;
• correct calculation of normalization is possible if you know the average weight of a bunch of grapes for this variety;
• it is necessary to count the number of inflorescences on the bush;
• in young 3-4 year old bushes, no more than 30% of all inflorescences are removed, if there are more than 5 of them (if there are less than 5, then the inflorescences are not thinned out);

Standardization by grade

Grape rationing

Varieties can be divided into groups according to the approximate volume of harvest per year. Each group has its own normalization.

1 group. Varieties White Kishmish, Edna, Amirkhan, Ukraine. The group includes prolific varieties with large clusters. The weight of one bunch can reach 1-1.5 kg with proper care. Since these varieties are characterized by increased productivity, only 1 inflorescence per shoot is preserved. Otherwise, the grapes will be small.

2 inflorescences per shoot can be left for large-fruited varieties: Adele, Campbell, Alpha, Tavriz, Avgustovsky, Taifi Rozovy, Jura Uzyum, Marshall Foch, Muscat Donskoy. In the future, when summer comes, it will also be necessary to remove the stepsons. Stepchildren are removed by breaking them off at the base and as the shoot grows.

On a note! The stepson is the so-called summer bud, to which shoot growth can proceed if the main growth point is damaged.

2nd group. Grape varieties with an average bunch weight of up to 300-500g. They are not so sensitive to load and can withstand large increases in yield. These varieties include: Silvaner, Kleret, Saperavi, Riesling, Traminer and others with an average degree of fertility. In these varieties, the number of inflorescences is reduced by approximately 35%. The increase in load for these varieties can be increased by half compared to the previous year.

3rd group. Low-growing varieties, sensitive to increased load. These include, for example, Chasselas, Aligote. The load of these varieties should be increased by no more than 25% from the previous season. Otherwise the berries will be small.