Climbing rose, planting and care in open ground, tips and tricks

Transplanting bushes

It is known that it is not always possible to find a suitable place for rose bushes, but replanting mature bushes is often not recommended, unless for rescue.
A good time for transplantation is autumn (last days of September - beginning of October). These deadlines must be met in order to preserve the plant and give it time to fully take root. When transplanting from one place to another in spring, you should choose an early time, while the buds on the shoots have not yet awakened.

When the time for replanting has come (in autumn), the vines should be removed from the support, the bushes should be dug widely around the root, then the plant should be removed. Trim all torn hairy roots with pruning shears. In the new location, straighten the root system, cover it with fertile soil, compact the soil and water generously. A few days after replanting, the bushes should be further hilled, and then this procedure should be repeated before winter.

When transplanting Ramblers, young shoots are left untouched. One only needs to pinch the tops of the shoots in advance, back in August, to speed up their lignification. Two-year-old shoots are cut off completely. The Clymer and Climing varieties are replanted according to a similar scheme, only long shoots in their case should be shortened by 50%.

Features of planting climbing roses in the Moscow region, Siberia, and the Urals

Depending on where they grow, roses require special care.

Ural

Growing roses in the Urals will be successful if you follow the rules for caring for shrubs.

• Feeding. During the growing season, flowers are fed at least 3 times (in June - using mullein infusion, in July - nitrogen-phosphorus potassium fertilizer, in early August - superphosphate and potassium).
• With the onset of autumn, heavy watering stops.
• In the Urals, it is better to cover the bush in advance: 2 weeks before sub-zero temperatures set in. All green twigs, flowers and leaves are removed from the bush. The shelter is removed in early May.
• In general, the plant needs to be cared for in the usual way: watering, weeding, loosening.

Note! If the seedlings were purchased with wax-coated stems and packed roots, then they can be stored in the basement. To prevent the roots from losing moisture, you need to open the package slightly and add a little water.

Siberia

In landscape design

Since the Siberian spring is late, the earth often does not have time to warm up to the required temperature, it is recommended to plant roses in southern areas. During the day, it is recommended to hide the plant so that the buds do not burn out.

It is advisable to plant them so that there are walls or a gazebo nearby. This will help protect the plant from strong winds. In addition, elevated areas are chosen so that the ground does not have time to freeze.

Moscow region

In the Moscow region, overwintering of climbing roses is much worse than in warm regions. Due to the short summer, shrubs do not have time to fully prepare for winter. The bark of the branches is more watery and loose. There are not enough nutrients. Therefore, plants need good shelter.

Thus, a key role in the abundant flowering of roses is played by proper planting and care, which will allow gardeners to grow magnificent flowers on their plots that will delight with beauty and aroma for many years.

vote

Article Rating

When to open climbing roses after winter in spring?

It is necessary to take into account the timeliness of opening the plant after the winter period:

• Early removal of cover can lead to kidney damage due to late frosts
• Later - fraught with rot and blackening of the bush

Optimally remove the shelter:

1. When the ground thaws 35-50 cm deep
2. When a stable above-zero temperature is established during the day and slight frost at night

Opening times for roses depending on the region of growth:

Support for climbing roses

There are a huge number of different supports for this type of rose. So, as a support you can use an old dried tree, a wooden, metal or polymer arch or lattice, as well as arched rods made of metal. But the best support for such a plant is a building or any structure, but we must remember that plants should be planted at least 50 centimeters away from the wall. It is necessary to fix guides on the surface of the wall, to which the plant shoots or lattice will cling. But we must not forget that if the stems are positioned horizontally, the flowers will grow along their entire length. If they grow vertically, then the flowers will bloom only at the tops of the stems.

In order to fix the stems on the support, you need to use plastic twine. It is prohibited to use wire for these purposes, even wrapped in cloth or a sheet of paper. The shoot must be secured to the support securely, but so that the fastening material does not damage it. It is necessary to systematically inspect plants for the integrity of fastening materials. The fact is that under the weight of the plant itself or from gusts of wind, the twine can break, and in this case there is a risk of significant damage to the rose. Step back 30 to 50 centimeters from the bush and then dig the support into the ground.

Care and cultivation of climbing roses

Rose care

There is a decorative type of perennial shrub called climbing rose. Despite the fact that roses are similar to each other, they still have some differences:

• climbing rose reaches 15 m in length;
• the stems are able to cling to the support themselves due to the tendrils;
• the bush is easy to shape.

To grow a beautiful and healthy bush, you need to know about important points:

• The rose should be planted in a sunny, ventilated place. Optimal south and south-west exposure. Under the most comfortable conditions, the rose will begin to bloom in the second year.
• Open ground should be fertile with drainage.
• Bushes should be planted at a distance of at least 50 cm from each other. Over the years, the roots will have little room and will deplete the soil around the bushes.
• For a healthy and properly formed bush, timely pruning is necessary. It is recommended to prune in late August - early September.
• Rose staking occurs at an early stage to control the direction of shoot growth.
• The climbing rose is frost-resistant, but it still needs to be wrapped in winter. Preparations for wintering begin in the fall. To begin with, loosening the soil and fertilizing it stops. The number of waterings is also reduced. Bushes take shelter during the onset of the first frosts. In order for the rose to withstand the cold well, when wrapping it is worth leaving an air gap between the film and the crown.
• If it is possible to remove the rose from the support, you can rewind it with twine and lay it on a layer of leaves. The top is also covered with leaves, burlap or oilcloth.
• Most often, climbing roses are planted in groups. Other types of flowers should not be located nearby. The exception is trees - apple, pear or rowan.

Note! If the climbing rose is securely attached to the support, you should not try to remove it. Such actions can damage the shoots

The rose is covered with spruce wood and wrapped in burlap.

How to tie climbing roses to a support

Caring for climbing roses includes tying up their flexible shoots. As support for the branches, trellises, reinforcement, wooden poles, metal lattice or plastic mesh are used, which are attached to the walls of houses or fences. Climbing roses also decorate small architectural forms, which are also supports for shrubs:

• pergolas;
• arches;
• tripods;
• gazebos;
• pyramids;
• trellises.

The stems of the plant are tied to the supporting structure with plastic fasteners, twine, non-metallic wire or elastic. The shoots should not be tied with garters - this will interfere with the growth of the vine. As the branches grow, the procedure is repeated, and the lower loops are weakened.

With the help of supports and the right garter, rose bushes can be given different shapes. How to form a fan-shaped plant:

1. Install a metal grid 7.5 cm from the house or drive hooks into the wall in equal rows at a distance of 1.2 m from each other. Stretch a plastic-braided wire between them in 50 cm increments.
2. Attach branched shoots of roses to the support in the form of a fan.

How to give a climbing bush a pillar shape:

1. Drive 3-5 long wooden stakes or metal rods into the ground, placing them in a circle. Cover them with mesh.
2. Wrap the structure with young shoots in a spiral and secure.

Features of caring for a climbing rose in the first year of growth

Usually, roses planted correctly in the ground do not cause much trouble. They are actively starting to grow, they only need to be watered with warm water in time. But sometimes, a young seedling freezes and does not grow. Or it produces new leaves and they immediately dry out. This seedling needs help.

• be sure to shade the seedling;
• water daily with warm water;
• mulch the tree trunk circle;
• Spray or water with a solution once a week, adding epin, zircon, HB-101 and other stimulants.

Important! If the seedling is weak and has not grown enough, but is about to bloom, then it is better to cut off the buds so as not to weaken the rosette. https://www.youtube.com/embed/MLiU2TiVKDo

Caring for a climbing rose

Rose cuttings or layering will require much more attention.

Reproduction

You can propagate a rose garden by seed, by cuttings, layering and by grafting. The main thing is to know the features of each method.

Seeds

First of all, the seed material should be disinfected by keeping it in a hydrogen peroxide solution for 30 minutes. After that, you need to place the seeds between two cotton pads soaked in hydrogen peroxide and place them one “sandwich” at a time in plastic bags. After signing them, you need to put them in a container and put them in the refrigerator on the vegetable shelf.

The seeds are periodically inspected, and if mold is detected, the cotton pads are replaced. You can expect sprouts to appear in 6-8 weeks.

The sprouted seeds are planted in peat pots and perlite is placed on top of the soil, which will prevent blackleg from developing. The containers are placed in a well-lit place and watered as the top layer of soil dries. The formation of the first buds is possible 8 weeks after planting, and flowering is possible after 4-6 weeks. Planting in a permanent place is carried out in the spring.

Cuttings

The most common and easiest way to propagate climbing roses is cuttings; even a beginner can handle it. Stems that have already faded and those that are still blooming are suitable as blanks. They are cut at the end of June and beginning of August at an angle of 45 degrees. The lower oblique cut should be under the bud, and the upper one should be made straight far from the bud.

The material should have at least 2 internodes. The upper leaves are shortened by half, and the lower ones are removed. The cuttings are buried 1 centimeter into the soil; it should consist of sand and earth or sand alone. To create a greenhouse effect, it is covered with a glass or plastic container. The cutting should not be in direct sunlight, but should be well lit. It is watered periodically.

By layering

In the spring, you need to make a cut in the stem above the bud so that the depth and width are 10-15 centimeters. Then a layer of humus is poured into the groove and covered with soil. In this case, the escape must be securely fixed in two or three places. The main thing is that its upper part remains open. The cuttings are regularly irrigated, and the following spring they are separated from the mother plant and planted in a permanent place.

Vaccination against rose hips

Budding is performed in late July-early August. Before the procedure, the rosehip is moistened abundantly. After which, a T-shaped incision is made on the root collar.

At this point, the bark is carefully removed and a peephole with a piece of bark and wood taken from a rose cutting is placed in the incision. Then they wrap it with budding material and spud up the rosehip bush, adding soil so that the grafting area is covered by at least 5 centimeters. After half a month, the bandage is released, and in the spring it is completely removed.

Subgroups

Today, there are 3 subgroups or species of the climbing group: rambler (multifloral climbing roses), climber (large-flowered climbing roses) and climbing.

Ramblers (multifloral climbing roses) were obtained by breeders by crossing the multifloral rose multiflora and the Vihuraina rose, which grow in East Asia. It became widespread in Europe in the 19th century.

The characteristic features of this climbing subgroup are: long, flexible, creeping or arched shoots (the length of which is from 2 to 6 m), which, like lashes, rise upward. The stems of these climbing roses are covered with thin thorns and have a light green color. The leaves are usually hard, small, leathery, shiny, like polyanthus roses. The flowers are small and small (2-4 cm in diameter), but there are many of them on stems that have overwintered, double and semi-double, but there are also simple ones.

Basically, the range of rambler colors is small: they are pink, red, white, with a weak odor, mostly, or no aroma at all. The flowers of this climbing species are collected in inflorescences of 5-20 pieces. Rambler blooms once and profusely for 30-35 days along the entire length of the shoots in the first half of summer (June-July). Some varieties of this subgroup can bloom repeatedly, adding fun to the garden. Caring for a Rambler is a little more difficult than other representatives of this group. Multi-flowered climbing roses are quite sensitive to powdery mildew, so they need to be sprayed and pruned regularly.

However, it should be remembered that climbing varieties are more winter-hardy than other types and require light shelter.

Climber (large-flowered climbing roses) were obtained by crossing hybrid tea roses, floribunda, in some publications you can find another division of clamber into: grandiflora (large-flowered with long buds) and floribunda (smaller buds, collected 5-15 in racemes).

They are similar to the previous subgroup, but their shoots are much shorter (2 - 4 m) and less flexible, rather thick and durable. In total, from different sources, the more used name of the species is as large-flowered climbing varieties, and climbers or climbers are less used. From English Сlimber means climber, i.e. these flowers seem to be climbing on supports. The buds are large (more than 4 cm in diameter), terry, fragrant, shaped like hybrid tea roses, collected in small inflorescences of 4 - 10 pieces, which is typical of floribunda.

Most large-flowered climbing species bloom repeatedly.

The subgroup is not as winter-hardy as ramblers; they require air-dry shelter. However, this class is resistant to diseases such as powdery mildew.

Climbing (third subgroup) can be found in the modern assortment. These are climbing roses that arose as a result of bud mutations (changes) from hybrid tea, polyantha, floribunda and other shrub roses. This class differs from its parent forms (the species from which it was bred) by its strong growth (that is, much larger), but later produces buds that are quite large (4 - 11 cm in diameter), collected in small inflorescences or single. In our climate (middle zone) they are affected by burns. From English climbing - ascent, as if they are rising up.

Mainly used in landscaping in southern regions with mild winters.

How to plant climbing roses in summer and autumn

How to plant climbing roses in summer? The summer period is considered not entirely favorable for planting these flowers, so at this time it is better to buy seedlings in pots. In hot weather, you need to especially monitor soil moisture.

Important! If the rose is not watered, it may not take root. But you shouldn’t water the bush too often, otherwise the roots will begin to rot.

Planting a climbing rose in the fall is also possible. In this case, a seedling with both an open and closed root system is used. When planting, you need to carefully inspect the roots for rot. Long roots should be shortened; patients are cut until the cut turns white.

How to plant a climbing rose correctly

Usually in the autumn, planting work is carried out in September or October. If you plant seedlings earlier, the plant will begin to actively develop, but in the root system this process will stop. As a result, the rose may even die. And with later planting dates, the plant often does not take root.

How to cover a climbing rose for the winter

One of the important procedures for caring for a rose is covering it for the winter. In frosts, the flower runs the risk of dying, so it needs to be covered on time and correctly.

When the first cold weather sets in, the growing season of roses stops. But since the weather is changeable and the temperature can rise, provoking sap flow, then with subsequent cold snaps the sap freezes, causing the stems and roots to suffer. As a result, the rose dies. But you can’t wrap roses too much; you should definitely leave access to oxygen. This will quickly dry out the protruding juice and heal cracks, if any.

Preparing for winter

At the beginning of August you need to feed the rose bushes. A nutrient solution can be made from the following ingredients:

• superphosphate - 25 g;
• boric acid - 2.5 g;
• potassium sulfate - 10 g.

Boric acid for roses

Everything is diluted in 10 liters of water. This volume is enough for 4 m² of land.

In September, another feeding is done:

• superphosphate - 15 g;
• potassium sulfate - 16 g.

Also dilute in 10 liters of water.

Cover methods

One of the most successful methods of shelter is the laying of wooden panels in the shape of a roof. This method is suitable for roses that can be removed from the support. The maximum suitable canvas should be 80 cm high, the length depends on the size of the bushes. To ensure that the structure stands securely, pegs are driven into the ground for support. The use of wooden boxes is allowed. In the first and second methods, you need to additionally cover the top with film.

Important! With this method of covering, it is important that the shoots do not come into contact with the boards, as moisture can accumulate on them. This risks causing the flower to become infected.

Can be covered without constructing structures. The shoots are carefully removed from the supports, trimmed, collected into one heap, tied with a tourniquet and laid on the leaves. A mound of soil mixed with peat is made near the root. You can cover the top with spruce branches or cover it with dry leaves. Cover the top with film.

If it is not possible to remove the rose from the support, first cut off dry branches and weak shoots, tear off the leaves, then wrap them in spruce branches (spruce), on top with burlap or film and tie them with a tourniquet.

If you use high-quality materials and properly wrap your climbing rose, you don’t have to worry, since the flower will survive winter frosts 100%.

Shelter

Possible problems and solutions

Yellowing of leaves

Caring for a climbing rose in the first year

How does it differ from standard requirements? Its further development and splendor of flowering depend on proper care in the first year of a plant’s life. When new shoots appear, the soil from the bushes is removed (the one that was used for hilling). If the days are sunny, then at first light shading with coniferous spruce branches will not hurt. After 10-12 days have passed after removing the hilling soil, you can begin the first pruning of the central shoot. It should be shortened above the second or third sheet. A little later, with the side branches of the second order, a similar procedure needs to be done, while the eyes “looking” inside the bush must be removed, and those eyes that are located on the outside are left for further correct formation of the bush.

Caring for a climbing rose in the first year also involves removing the buds, no matter how strange it may sound. From the beginning of flowering until the first weeks of August, it is recommended to leave only two flowers on each branch. With the arrival of autumn, these flowers will turn into boxes with seeds (fruits), and after these manipulations, your rose will bloom especially magnificently next year.

In the summer, preventative irrigation against parasite invasion should not be neglected, and with the onset of autumn, rose bushes should be covered. Lutrasil, spunbond or coniferous spruce branches are excellent covering materials for this plant. The bush is completely covered. When a new spring comes, young bushes open first, older representatives later. In principle, all climbing rose bushes are covered for the winter. An old proven method is hilling with earth and sand (1:1) to a height of about 30 cm, with the arrival of autumn, and a little later - complete cover with the onset of the first frost.

Terms and rules for fertilizing climbing roses

Fertilizers for climbing roses are of great importance; timely fertilizing stimulates the growth and development of flower buds.

From the beginning of the season, organic matter must be applied to rose bushes; nitrogen fertilizers promote rapid growth of shoots and leaf mass, which is especially valuable on varieties that have been radically pruned for the winter.

Roses respond well to foliar feeding on the leaves, especially when diseases arise from a lack of certain microelements. Once or twice a season, it is useful to spray the leaves of climbing roses using a cocktail of microelements.

Autumn planting

When planning to plant a climbing rose, you must first learn how to choose the best quality planting material. Nowadays you can buy rose seedlings that are rooted, as well as those that are grafted onto rose hips

But how are they different? Grafted seedlings have one important difference from rooted ones. The fact is that the root system of such a seedling belongs to the rose hips, and on it there is a scion belonging to the varietal climbing rose

In this regard, planting and caring for a rooted rose should be somewhat different than a grafted one. So, for example, a grafted seedling must be buried in the soil when planting so that the place where the graft is located is underground at a depth of 10 centimeters. With this method of planting, the part of the plant that was grafted begins to form its own root system, while the rosehip roots eventually become unnecessary and die off. In the case when, during planting, the scion was not buried in the ground, but remained above its surface, it can lead to the death of the plant. The fact is that rosehip is a deciduous plant, and a grafted rose is an evergreen. If planting was carried out in violation of the rules, then such a discrepancy between the rootstock and scion can lead to the death of the cultivated part of the plant.

Seedlings with an open root system must be immersed in a container of water for 1 day, and this should be done immediately before planting in open ground. After this, you should tear off all the leaves and cut off, using pruners, those stems that are unripe or have been damaged. You should also trim the root system and above-ground parts, leaving 30 centimeters each. The cut areas should be treated with crushed charcoal. If you use grafted seedlings for planting, then you must carefully remove all the buds that are located below the scion. The fact is that rose hips will begin to grow from them. Next, the planting material should be disinfected. To do this, it must be dipped in a solution of copper sulfate (3%).

The hole for planting roses should have dimensions of 50x50. In this case, a distance of at least 100 centimeters must be maintained between the planting holes. The top layer of soil, the most saturated with nutrients, must be removed from the hole being dug and combined with ½ part of a bucket of manure. Part of the resulting earth mixture must be poured into the hole, and then a relatively large amount of water must be poured into it. This procedure must be carried out a day or two before the plant is supposed to be planted. On the day you are planning to plant a seedling, you need to prepare a special solution in order to treat the root system before planting. To prepare the solution, you need to dissolve 1 tablet of heteroauxin, 3 tablets of phosphorobacterin in 500 ml of water.

Then pour this liquid into 9.5 liters of clay mash. Before lowering the seedling into the hole, its roots should be dipped in the prepared mixture. A mixture of soil and manure should be poured into the hole in a mound. Then you need to place the seedling in the hole, carefully straightening its roots. Fill the hole with the same mixture of soil and manure and thoroughly compact the soil surface. Do not forget that the place where the graft is located must be buried 10 centimeters into the ground. In this case, the root collar of a self-rooted seedling must be buried 5 or more centimeters into the ground. The planted plant must be well watered. After the liquid is absorbed into the soil, a mixture of soil and manure will need to be added to the hole. Then the plant spuds to a height of 20 centimeters or more.

Saplings

Climbing roses love a sunny area that is well ventilated. However, some of them can grow in partial shade. Air movement quickly dries drops of dew, rain or water from irrigation on the leaves, which reduces the risk of disease.

It should be noted that strong winds also harm the rose, because it will develop poorly and be affected by aphids.

Seedlings of climbing varieties are planted in autumn or early spring, inclined towards the support, because this way the bush is more firmly attached to the ground. The depth of groundwater should be 1.5 m (that is, there will be no standing water, since it does not stay on the surface).

If you have such land, then you should make drainage to counteract stagnant water. The best soil is loamy or fertile, with a high humus content. Grafted seedlings of climbing varieties are planted a little deeper than rooted ones, so that the grafting site is 10 cm underground to the root collar. This is done so that the climbing bush takes root, subsequently drowning out the rose hips and recreating the cultural part on it. If you do not adhere to these conditions (do not deepen the grafting site), the climbing rose bush may disappear, or degenerate into a rose hip, or freeze out.

A self-rooted seedling does not depend on the root collar; it can be 3-4 cm above the surface. The bush is weaker than the grafted one in the first year, but it is easier to care for because it is not necessary, like its predecessor, to remove the wild shoots that grow from the rose hips. In a self-rooted climbing rose seedling, the cultivated part of the bush immediately begins to grow.

Wild growth from a rose must also be removed correctly: we turn the soil away from the bush and cut it out at the root collar with a sharp tool (knife, pruner). If you leave at least part of such shoot, then a mass of new stems will develop from the “dormant” buds and it will be more difficult to remove the rose hips.

Additional factors

Growing climbing roses requires mandatory insulation before wintering. Before covering the bushes, they need to be properly prepared. To do this, you need to remove dry leaves, cut off old branches and weak shoots. As a result, only 10-12 strong shoots remain. All actions should be carried out only in dry weather.

There are different methods for covering roses. Their choice depends on the region where roses grow. If the climate is milder, then the branches do not need to be removed from the support. They can be covered with spruce branches and then wrapped with additional film.

If the winter in the region is too cold, then the branches should be removed from the support. First you need to collect them in a large bunch and tie them. When the temperature drops to 5°C, this bundle must be carefully tilted towards the ground and secured with stakes and wire. The base of the bush should be covered with a mixture of soil and peat, and the shoots should be covered with spruce branches. Cover everything on top with agrofibre or film.

In spring, it is important to remove the entire structure in time. Otherwise, without fresh air and high humidity, roses will simply suffocate and rot.

After opening the bush, the shoots need to be tied back to the support. The first fertilizing should be introduced only after young leaves appear.

Preventing diseases.

If you care for the bushes incorrectly, powdery mildew, black spot or bacterial cancer may develop. These are the most common diseases of climbing roses. It is imperative to follow all the rules for caring for the plant. In addition, all dry branches and leaves must be burned, otherwise the disease will spread from them to new shoots and flowers. In addition, you need to use chemicals and folk remedies.

Diseases

Diseases and insect pests can cause irreparable damage to the rose, including death.

When the weather changes, the bush weakens and loses immunity to many diseases.

Powdery mildew

Basically, only the blossoming leaves and shoots are affected. The disease appears in cool weather with high humidity. A white coating appears on the plant, leading to the curling of the leaf plate and the death of the shoots. Treatment: treatment with fungicides.

Black spot

A fungal disease affects the foliage. As a rule, the disease manifests itself in the month of July. The leaf plate becomes covered with dark spots, losing its decorative effect. If the disease is advanced, the leaf completely turns black, dries out and falls off. Treatment with fungicides.

Rust

The disease begins to affect the plant in warm and humid spring. A cluster of spores forms on the necks and next to the young leaves. In summer, small orange pads containing spores appear on the inside of the leaf. Treatment consists of removing the damaged areas.

Chlorosis

The disease occurs from a lack of microelements in the soil. When affected by chlorosis, the leaves turn white or yellowish.

Diseases and pests of roses

Often, when growing a crop, problems arise with various ailments and parasites that have chosen climbing roses for residence. The following table will tell you what to do and in what cases.

Plant diseases and pests

Pests

Among insect pests, the most dangerous are beetles, caterpillars, and larvae. They damage the tissue of one of the organs, stop growth and shorten flowering time.

Aphid

They live in colonies on the inside of leaves, on shoots, on peduncles and flowers. You can get rid of aphids by spraying the plant with insecticides.

Rose leafhopper

A dangerous insect that causes great harm to the rose. The leafhopper can be identified by the appearance of its leaves. They are sprinkled with small white dots. If the plant is not treated, it dries out and drops its leaves.

Leaf rollers

Caterpillars appear in the spring, eating everything in their path: barely opened buds, young leaves and shoots.

How to properly care for climbing roses in open ground

Like all ornamental plants, climbing roses require certain care.

In order for flowers to delight the owners of the site with their abundant blooms for several years, it is important to know some subtleties

climbing roses

Caring for a climbing rose in the first year

During the first year, roses take root and are not always pleased with the blooming buds, but this is not the main thing. It is necessary for the bush to grow roots and produce healthy stems

This is important before the first winter. In conditions of regular rains, the plant does not require frequent watering

The only period when it is recommended to water the bushes is the moment the seedlings take root (if the weather is hot). When the bush is formed and actively growing, it can only be watered in the summer.

Important! When watering, do not pour water on the leaves, only under the roots. Morning is considered the best time

The soil needs to be loosened, and to prevent it from drying out, it must be mulched.

In the first year of life of a climbing rose, dried and damaged branches are pruned. There is no need for short pruning.

Caring for climbing roses in the second year

In the second year of life, the flower does not require painstaking care; it is enough to water it abundantly (once every 10 days), feed and prune it on time. Young stems that grow on the sides need pruning. Branches that have flowered should also be pruned to encourage new flowering. The soil around the flower is mulched with grass, straw or sawdust.

In subsequent years, organic feeding is needed. During the growing season, 4 feedings are required. To rejuvenate the bush, you can carry out medium pruning. If all these requirements are met, the plant will be healthy and beautiful.

Feeding and watering

If planted in the spring, the flowering of the bush will be delayed for a couple of weeks. Before planting in the ground, the seedling is shortened by 3 buds. Inexperienced gardeners prefer to buy seedlings in a pot and at the end of spring plant them in the soil along with a lump of earth on the roots.

Note! Under no circumstances should seedlings be grown on the corner of a house. The corner part is always accompanied by a draft

Fancy roses will not like this.

In order for the plant to please the eye with regular and lush flowering, you need to properly care for it.

Necessary care for climbing roses in summer

In summer, flower care consists of the following activities:

• monitor the possible presence of aphids and other pests;
• prevention of rust, powdery mildew, aphids;
• abundant watering in the heat;
• pruning fading buds;
• loosening the soil;
• removing weeds near the bush;
• second feeding of roots;
• shoot distribution;
• budding;
• shoot garter;
• second pre-autumn feeding.

Important! Rose can get bark cancer. In most cases, the disease is detected in early spring, when the cover is removed

The disease is expressed in the form of light brown spots. If the removal procedure is not carried out in time, the stem will soon die. To save the flower, you need to remove the spots with a small portion of the healthy part of the trunk. It is recommended to burn the cut branches, but under no circumstances leave them in the yard.

How to care for a climbing rose in autumn

In autumn, flower care comes down to the following procedures:

• feeding with bone meal;
• preparing holes for planting new roses in the spring;
• pinching shoots;
• protecting the soil from drying out;
• picking off dried buds;
• cutting cuttings for propagation;
• pruning old and damaged shoots;
• cleaning the soil around the bush from debris and weeds, hilling;
• cleaning the bushes from leaves and removing them from the support (late autumn).

Site selection and site preparation

The ideal place for planting a climbing rose is a well-lit, flat and dry area with a slight slope to drain rain and melt water or equipped with drainage. It is not recommended to choose lowlands and wetlands for planting. Stagnant water will lead to rotting of the roots, and lack of sun and ventilation will lead to fungus.

Choosing a location and planting a climbing rose in summer

For the same reason, the depth of groundwater in the territory of the rose garden should be no higher than 2 meters. If the location of the site does not allow choosing such a place, then the roses are planted on an artificial hill. A large stone is placed at the bottom of the planting hole, which prevents the roots from going deeper and starting to grow horizontally. Climbing roses planted using this technology require additional protection of the root system. The roots are well compacted when planting, they are mulched with tree bark or sawdust.

If groundwater lies close to the surface, caring for climbing roses requires the presence of a room on the site for moving the bushes for winter storage. A dry heated basement or garage, insulated veranda or terrace are suitable for this purpose.

Repeated planting of roses in one place is not advisable.

A place where roses have previously grown is not suitable - new flowers will develop poorly and lack minerals.
If there is no alternative, the top soil layer to a depth of half a meter must be replaced. The soil for planting in spring is prepared in the fall, in other cases - a month before the planned procedure. Fertile, air- and moisture-permeable loamy soils with a slightly acidic pH of 5.5-6.5 are most suitable for climbing roses.

Coarse sand, humus, compost, turf and leaf soil are added to the clay soil (6:1:1:1:1); in sandy - clay, turf soil, humus or compost (2: 2: 1: 1). Based on 1 sq.m. 1 kg of wood ash, half a kilo of bone meal, 100 g of superphosphate and a kilogram of chalk are also added to the earth mixture, depending on the pH of the soil.

Planting scheme for climbing roses

Climbing rose is a perennial plant with powerful roots that should be freely located. Therefore, for one bush, they dig a hole up to 70 cm deep and 60 by 60 cm in size. The distance between the holes should be up to 3 m.

The top layer of soil is set aside and the podzol is removed. The bottom of the pit is covered with a layer of pebbles or small crushed stone, and a prepared earthen mixture is laid on top 40 cm high, which is sprinkled with the deposited layer of soil.