Raspberries do not require special and complex care, since they are too susceptible to cold and temperature changes. Before growing a vitamin crop, you need to carefully study the varieties that grow well in the given climatic conditions and the quality of the soil in the region.
Raspberry varieties for the Urals and Siberia must have a high ability to survive in frosty years, be able to quickly produce a harvest of high-quality berries, and also be resistant to diseases and pests.
Raspberry traditional variety “Zorenka Altai”
The bush is powerful, medium spreading, with average shoot-forming ability.
Mature plant size
Decorative all season.
Flowering and fruits
Medium sized berries (2.8-3.0 g).
Remainings valid as of: February 19, 2022, 11:29
To choose the right site for raspberries, you need to take into account some of its features. This crop needs nutritious soil and good lighting. Bushes do not like strong winds, so you should choose a place that will be protected by trees, a house or a fence. Moreover, this will give raspberries the opportunity to more easily endure cold winters. But try to ensure that protecting objects do not create a shadow at the planting site. It is best to plant raspberries there. where dill, beans, garlic, onions, beets, carrots, and calendula used to grow. When preparing a site for planting a raspberry tree, it is good to grow legumes and cereal grasses on it: clover, timothy, alfalfa, wheatgrass, vetch - these plants not only improve the structure of the soil, but also enrich it with nitrogen. Lupine is also an excellent precursor for raspberries, which helps clear the soil of May beetle larvae, which cause great harm to plantings. It is not recommended to plant raspberries where potatoes, peppers, physalis, tomatoes, eggplants or strawberries previously grew.
Raspberries require several feedings during the growing season. The generally accepted feeding scheme is as follows: in the spring - nitrogen fertilizers, during the period of flowering and ripening of berries - complex mineral fertilizers, which contain potassium, nitrogen and phosphorus. immediately after harvesting - phosphorus-potassium. and by the end of the growing season - only phosphorus. This crop loves organic fertilizers, so in the spring it is worth making liquid fertilizers from rotted manure or bird droppings. You can feed raspberries with saltpeter or urea: in the spring, until mid-June. A single dose is 60-100 g per 1 m2, but fertilizer can be applied in parts, in 2-4 doses. Fruiting raspberry shoots take 2 years to develop. In the first year, annual shoots grow from the buds on the rhizome, and in the second year a crop is formed on them, after which the branches die. New shoots appear instead of old ones, which is why you have to constantly prune raspberries. If you grow bushes in an ordinary way, then for 1 linear. m (up to 40 cm wide) we leave 5-8 of the healthiest and strongest young
Medium ripening raspberry variety. Originator: Research Institute of Horticulture of Siberia named after. M.A. Lisavenko. Seedling from open pollination of a hybrid of a wild local form and the Viking raspberry variety. The raspberry variety is winter-hardy. Affected by purple spotting. The berries are one-dimensional, red, with strong grip on the drupes, tasty, and transportable. The berries hang on the shoots for a long time, are not susceptible to gray rot, do not overripe or fall off, and are slightly affected by the raspberry beetle.
Agricultural technology
The requirements for agricultural technology for growing raspberries of the Zorenka Altaya variety are in many ways similar to the requirements for other varietal varieties of this crop, and provide for the selection of the optimal site for planting, the correct implementation of all planting activities and clearly organized further care, based on timely watering, fertilizing and pruning of bushes .
Selecting a location
When considering different options for sites for planting raspberry bushes of the described variety, you should pay attention only to places illuminated by the sun, with deep groundwater or a good drainage system that can prevent unwanted stagnation of moisture near the raspberry plant. In addition, the bushes do not like strong gusts of cold wind, so in open areas on the north side you will have to place some kind of protective structure, or immediately plant seedlings not far from outbuildings or a fence, retreating about 1 m from it.
Ideal precursors for raspberries would be legumes, garlic, onions, beets, carrots, calendula and green manure plants (for example, alfalfa, wheatgrass, vetch). In the latter case, with the help of the specified vegetation, you will not only enrich the soil with mineral compounds, but also saturate it with a large amount of nitrogen, which is very necessary for raspberries. You should not plant shrubs after peppers, potatoes, tomatoes or eggplants, since all of these crops suffer from the same ailments and pests.
Important! The raspberries themselves can be returned to their original place of cultivation no earlier than after 3-4 years, and even when we are talking about different varieties of the crop.
Planting and care
Having chosen a suitable place for planting and prepared a seedling of the selected raspberry variety, you can proceed to the direct planting process, which begins with the organization of suitable holes. The optimal placement scheme for Zorenka Altai seedlings provides for the presence of one and a half meters of free space between individual trenches, each 30 cm deep. The width of the seat is selected based on the size of the seedling itself, but on average it is 40–50 cm.
At the bottom of the dug planting hole, it is necessary to place a drainage layer of broken brick or expanded clay, and on top of it, pour a nutrient mixture of peat, humus and fertile soil removed earlier. The last one should be clean soil so that the rhizome of the seedling placed on its surface does not receive burns from the fertilizer. All further actions are carried out according to the general planting plan: holding the seedling, you need to carefully straighten its roots and dose them with soil mixture, evenly distributing it between the individual roots.
When planting several seedlings at once, the distance between them should be about 60–70 cm, the interval between rows should be 150–180 cm. At the end of the process, it is worth compacting the soil at the planting site and watering the seedling well. Further watering is carried out as needed, based on weather conditions and rainfall. On average, up to 8–10 such actions are performed in one season, using at least 3 buckets of water per adult plant. Fertilizing plants also deserves special attention.
Read the rules for autumn planting raspberries.
Without a sufficient amount of nutrients, Zorenka Altai cannot produce a rich harvest of berries, therefore, with the arrival of spring, the plants are fed with nitrogen-containing compounds (for example, pouring 3-5 liters of diluted manure under a bush or adding 80 g of urea per 1 m² of territory), at the flowering stage and fruit ripening, complex mineral fertilizers (necessarily with a high potassium content) will be useful, and after harvesting, phosphorus-potassium compounds can be used (sometimes, towards the end of the growing season, gardeners give preference only to phosphorus fertilizers, which help annual shoots to lay flower stalks for the next season).
No less useful will be spring fertilizing using saltpeter and urea, which can be applied until mid-June, adhering to a one-time norm of 60–100 g per 1 m² of plantings.
Disease and pest control
General preventive measures are based on compliance with the requirements for watering and fertilizing raspberries, as well as regular inspection of individual parts of the bush, which will help to promptly identify and eliminate any problems. To protect plantings from purple spot, in early spring the bushes are treated with copper-containing preparations, the most popular of which are “Abiga-Pik”, “Oksikhom”, “Skor”, “Hom”. In addition, no less famous, and at the same time affordable, will be a one-percent Bordeaux mixture, which can be re-applied when pruned young shoots grow back and after harvesting.
Did you know? The first raspberry garden on the territory of modern Russia appeared thanks to the decree of Yuri Dolgoruky, and its area was so large that bears and other forest inhabitants walked freely around it.
If there are shoots damaged by disease on the bush, do not be afraid to remove them, since almost any disease spreads very quickly over the surface of the plant, and you risk losing more than half of the harvest. This also applies to raspberry beetle infestations. By damaging leaves and shoots, it opens the way for pathogens and fungi, so the fight against the pest begins immediately after the first signs of its activity are detected. The drug “Fitoverm” is highly effective against pests, capable of maintaining its beneficial effects for three weeks.
Raspberry beetle An acceptable alternative is the “Fufanon” product, which is processed at the end of May (during the cherry blossom period). The dosage and method of creating any medicinal solution are always indicated on the packaging and should definitely be followed. Of the mechanical methods of eliminating the problem, preference is given to manual collection of beetles and removal of disease-damaged branches with their further burning, which will prevent the spread of the disease in the raspberry field.
Trellis
Despite the growth of raspberry bushes, they rarely need to use a trellis, since the shoots do not droop down. However, with a large amount of harvest, some gardeners still use support, and in this case it is worth attaching the branches on the south side so that the structure itself does not shade them. You can also separate shoots that have already bear fruit from young shoots, securing each group from different sides.
Pruning and wintering
The following spring after planting, young raspberry bushes need to be pruned by about 15–20 cm, thereby causing increased growth of dormant fruit-bearing branches. Autumn pruning in this case is considered as one of the stages of preparation for the winter season and is carried out in October, when the night temperature reaches zero. All fruit-bearing branches, as well as shoots damaged by diseases and pests, must be removed.
Annual specimens are simply bent to the soil, thereby facilitating better formation of a protective snow layer in the future. Sanitary pruning of branches can be carried out in the spring, but always before intensive sap flow begins. In this case, along with the broken parts, it is worth cutting out all frozen or weak specimens, leaving no more than 10 strong stems on one plant.
Anti-aging pruning of the raspberry tree is carried out regularly once every 2-3 years, and if it grows in one area for 15 years, the plants will have to be transplanted to another place in their entirety (all raspberry bushes must be transferred).
Important! All cut shoots must be taken out of the area and burned so that they do not become a source of disease in the future. It is better not to use the ash obtained from burning to fertilize the soil, not in the place where the raspberry tree grows, nor in any other place in the garden.
Modern, basic requirements for raspberry varieties.
Modern raspberry varieties should be well adapted to the weather conditions of a wide range and, if possible, combine frost resistance, flower resistance to late spring frosts, tolerance to thaws and drought resistance.
In northern latitudes, a limiting factor for many large-fruited and productive raspberry varieties is low winter hardiness; in the southern regions, hardy varieties are needed, albeit not very frost-resistant, but capable of safely withstanding snowless winters and frequent thaws - not all varieties have bark that is resistant to damping off. New raspberry varieties should not be inferior to the best varieties in terms of yield (120 c/ha) and resistance to the most dangerous pests and diseases.
Suitability for mechanized cultivation technology is an important requirement for modern raspberry varieties, therefore the bush must be compact, low (1.5 - 1.8 m), with an optimal number of stems (4 - 8 shoots per bush), equal vigor of growth and development, with shortened internodes along the entire length (3 - 5 cm), with a restrained growth rate of new shoots. The shoots are without thorns, but pubescent or with an intense waxy coating that prevents excessive evaporation of moisture. Flowering and ripening of berries should take place in a short time and simultaneously on all branches.
Raspberries should be large (more than 3 - 4 g), uniform in size and shape, dense, durable, not crumbling, attractive, transportable, resistant to rot on the bush and during storage. In addition, the berries must have high taste and a strong aroma, homogeneous, well-cohesive drupes, small, few seeds, and the required content of sugars, organic acids, vitamins and biologically active substances.
Why is maintenance so important for cool climates?
Remontant raspberries have proven themselves well in the conditions of the Urals.
Remontant raspberries are berry bushes that can bear fruit for a long time. At the same time, the first harvest of them is harvested simultaneously with ordinary raspberries, and then the plants bloom and continuous fruiting occurs, which lasts until the onset of frost.
Remontant raspberries also have the following advantages:
- Shoots on which a large number of berries are placed, in most cases do not require support or tying up the stems .
- The above-ground part of the raspberry must be mowed , this ensures winter hardiness for the plants, since its roots have good frost resistance and freeze at temperatures in the soil layer where they are located from -20 degrees.
- If you remove the cut shoots in time, you can to some extent protect the raspberries from insect pests and diseases (there will be nowhere for them to overwinter). But it is possible that remontant raspberries may become infected when adjacent to regular ones.
- Due to the fact that pests and fungal diseases are less likely to appear on the shoots, they will not need chemical treatments, and, naturally, such raspberries will be more environmentally friendly, and the owner will not incur the cost of protective equipment.
Remontant raspberries do not need chemical treatment.
By growing remontant raspberries, people consume the fresh harvest longer. At the same time, the last berries ripen in late autumn, when there are no others.
List of varieties suitable for the Ural region
In the Urals, such remontant raspberry varieties as Zorenka Altaya, Augustovskoye Miracle, Golden Domes, Bryanskoye Miracle, Brilliantovaya, and Orange Miracle are effectively cultivated.
There are several varieties of raspberries that get along in the Urals.
Zorenka Altai
Raspberries of this variety grow tall and medium spreading, with many thorns on the stems. The shoot-forming characteristics are average.
Altai Zorenka has an average harvest period, its bushes exhibit high frost resistance and have large-fruited berries. They are round in shape, scarlet, have a size of up to 3 grams , and tolerate transportation well. The taste of fresh berries is pleasant, and jams and compotes are also made from them. Productivity is high, 24–46 c/ha. Zorenka Altai has simultaneous ripening of fruits.
Zorenka Altai raspberry bushes have high frost resistance.
Raspberries can hang on the stems for a long time without deteriorating the quality of the fruit or falling off. There is mild susceptibility to raspberry beetle and purple spot.
August miracle
The bush reaches a height of 175 cm, its stems are straight and powerful. The inflorescences, and then the berries, are located along the entire height of the plant, except for its very lower part. The August miracle gives people their harvest before the frost begins. It is distinguished by the most intense fruiting at the beginning of the season.
Raspberries of this variety are high-yielding, the yield from its shoots can reach from 6 to 9 kg per bush, and per hectare it can produce up to 11 tons of berries. The berries are medium in size, weighing up to 4.5 g, but abundant fruiting allows you to get a generous harvest. The August miracle is grown on an industrial scale in the central and northern parts of Russia.
The berries of the Augustovskoye Miracle variety weigh up to 4.5 g.
This variety has excellent winter hardiness: it can withstand up to 29 degrees of frost, if the plant was properly cared for in the fall. The advantage of the August miracle is complete immunity to insects that parasitize raspberry bushes. She is devoid of worms and does not suffer from various spots.
Bryansk miracle
Bryansk miracle is a promising variety of domestic selection. This raspberry has powerful, thick stems with thorns, but the branches on the sides are thornless and have a waxy coating on them.
The bush is slightly spreading, it does not require tying, but in case of sharp gusts of wind it is still better to do this. The plant has a small amount of root shoots.
The Bryansk miracle bears fruit for a long period, it begins in the second half of August. Annual stems bear fruit until the end of the season. Cold resistance is up to 24 degrees below zero.
The berries of the Bryanskoye Divo variety have an elongated shape.
When this raspberry bears fruit, you can have up to 3 ½ kg from each plant, and from 1 hectare it is up to 13 tons . The berries reach a size of 5–7 g, but some of them can grow up to 11 g. The berries are large, elongated, red and sweet with a slight sour taste. The fruits have increased density, so they are easy to transport and store for a long period. Based on the totality of its characteristics, Bryanskoe Miracle is an effective industrial variety.
Secrets of care
Like other varieties, this raspberry has its own secrets for caring for it. Since the berries of the Bryansk diva ripen from the top down, the lower inflorescences are torn off . The remaining fruits turn out to be larger, and there is also a greater chance for the entire Bryansk Mira raspberry to ripen before the onset of frost.
The Bryansk miracle raspberry ripens from top to bottom.
Flaws
The disadvantages of the variety include average resistance to fungal diseases , so by autumn these raspberries look unhealthy. Then it is mowed down, and in the spring everything starts all over again.
The Bryansk miracle is very fond of soil with a light structure - on heavy soils the plant produces a noticeably smaller yield. Like other varieties of remontant raspberries, these bushes like to grow in a sunny area.
Raspberries planted in heavy soil will produce a small harvest.
Diamond Raspberry
The Brilliantovaya variety bush is not tall: it grows only 1–1.2 m, less often up to 1 ½ m. Its shoots have a waxy coating and a small number of thorns.
Ripe berries grow up to 4 g, are shiny, and have a slightly sour taste. The pulp is juicy, but tolerates transportation well and also has excellent keeping quality.
Diamond raspberries bear fruit actively; if conditions are favorable, you can collect up to 8 kg of berries from one plant. The harvest ripens from the beginning of August until frost. The winter hardiness of the bushes is up to -24 degrees.
Raspberries of the Brilliant variety are active in fruiting.
Care
- It is advisable to tie up the stems of these raspberries, since they, when hung with fruits, may not withstand such weight and fall to the ground. To make the berry larger, you need to leave no more than 5 branches in each bush.
- As young shoots appear in the bushes, you can root them . To do this, take such an offspring, the height of which is 5 cm, and it has red leaves. Place it in a container with soil mixture. The top of this pot is covered with a jar, and the optimal humidity regime is maintained.
Raspberries need to tie up their stems.
Peculiarities
The peculiarity of Diamond is that it bears fruit in the form of clusters, so it must be regularly periodically fed with organic matter or mineral fertilizers.
Raspberries should be fertilized regularly.
At the end of the season, it is mowed and the ground is mulched with humus or other suitable material. This will serve as both shelter and fertilizer for the next year. This variety is also suitable for cultivation in a two-year cycle.
Orange miracle
The Orange Miracle raspberry bush has tall, spreading shoots. Up to 7 replacement stems and basal shoots are formed in the plant. There are many thorns on the branches of the plant, which can, to some extent, make harvesting raspberries difficult.
The fruits have an oblong shape, up to 4 cm long, they weigh 4 ½ -5 ½ g, but some grow up to 10 g. There is a noticeable raspberry aroma, there is sourness in the taste, the color of the berries ranges from yellow to bright orange. The harvest can be harvested from each plant up to 3 kg. Before frost, all the raspberries usually have time to ripen.
Raspberries of the Orange Miracle variety have a sour taste.
The fruits have a velvety surface, and their pulp has increased density. Orange miracle raspberries are productive, easily transported, and can be stored for a long time, so they are quite suitable for commercial cultivation.
Advantages
The bush of this variety has good resistance to parasitic insects and diseases, but can suffer from severe frosts and heat. Frost resistance is up to -24 degrees.
Raspberry bushes are resistant to diseases.
Due to the abundant amount of fruit, the stems sag and can break, so the Orange Miracle must be tied up.
Standards for raspberry planting material
The quality of raspberry planting material must meet certain technical requirements. — The stems of raspberry seedlings with an open root system must be without leaves and shortened to 40 cm. — The sale of seedlings with a closed root system is allowed with leaves and without shortening. — Seedlings must not be dried out, without mechanical damage. — Infection with viral, phytoplasma diseases and leaf-eating insects is not allowed. — Varietal purity 100%. — The length of the roots is at least 15 cm. — The number of shoots is 1 piece. — The diameter of the base of the shoot is 0.8 — 1 cm.
Description of the variety
The Zorenka Altai variety was bred at the Siberian Horticulture Research Institute named after. Mikhail Afanasyevich Lisavenko by crossing wild forest raspberries with the Vityaz variety.
The shoots of this raspberry are tall, powerful, spreading, with a characteristic waxy coating. By the time of cold weather, they become their usual brown color, flexible, and bend down to the ground without difficulty. There are not many thorns and they are soft, located mainly in the lower part of the bush. The shoot-forming ability of this variety is average, but it allows you to easily propagate the crop by root suckers.
Altai Zorenka is included in the State Register for the North-Western, Central, Volga-Vyatka, West Siberian and East Siberian regions.
The berries of Zorenka Altai are light red, weighing up to 4-5 g. They have good adhesion of the drupes and, as a result, excellent transportability. The first fruits usually appear by mid-to-late July, for which the variety is considered mid-season. The berries are endowed with a pleasant sweet and sour taste. Good fresh, as part of all kinds of desserts and preparations. Tasting score 4.5 out of 5.0 points.
Reviews from gardeners
Larisa, 44 years old: “A lot of modern raspberries grow in our garden near Moscow, but we don’t want to give up the old Russian variety Novost Kuzmina. The berries are not too large, and the harvest is moderate, but the taste and aroma are like those of real forest raspberries. And if the bushes are fed and watered in time, the elongated berries become twice as large. And they ripen early. The variety is unpretentious, never freezes, and grows in one place for many years. According to our taste, Novosti Kuzmina raspberries are our favorite. By the way, it’s not very prickly.”
Mikhail, 69 years old: “The weather in the Urals is contrasting, and not all raspberries come out of winter well. Even if you bend the bushes, some still freeze, damp out, and break. This is especially true for large-fruited varieties. Ordinary Ural and Siberian varieties are more reliable (Lyubitelskaya Sverdlovskaya, Fregat, Blestyaschaya, Zorenka), and their berries are sweeter.”
a brief description of
Zorenka Altai is traditionally famous for:
- large-fruited;
- excellent taste;
- productivity;
- excellent frost resistance;
- good transportability;
- The fruits do not fall off when ripe.
The disadvantages of the variety can be considered:
- presence of thorns;
- susceptibility to purple spotting;
- tendency to be affected by the raspberry beetle (in the absence of timely pest control measures).
Zorenka Altai raspberries do not require staking to trellises, since the variety does not have a tendency to droop.
Landing
Zorenka Altai raspberry prefers well-lit areas of the garden, with fertile soil and deep groundwater. It is sensitive to drafts, so it is given places protected from gusty winds by buildings, plantings or other barriers.
The variety is best planted after legumes and cereals, which make the soil as loose as possible and enriched with nitrogen. But after other berry plants and nightshades, raspberries grow poorly and often get sick.
Altai Zorenka is planted in pits and trenches located 1.5 m from each other and up to 0.3 m deep. A nutrient layer is laid on the bottom, and the seedlings themselves are shortened to 30 cm for better survival in a new place. When planting, the rhizomes are thoroughly straightened, the soil is compacted around the stem. Planted young raspberries are moistened and mulched.
Growing and care
The conditions for growing raspberries of this variety are dictated by harsh natural conditions, but do not differ much from traditional agricultural techniques.
Watering
The Zorenka Altai variety is tolerant of lack of moisture. However, to obtain good yields, raspberries should be watered regularly and abundantly. During the season, up to 8-10 waterings are traditionally carried out.
Excess moisture is much more destructive than its lack. During periods of prolonged rain, some gardeners make special canopies in order to prevent the rotting of rhizomes and preserve the existing crop.
Trimming
Raspberries need periodic thinning. This allows you to protect the crop from thickening, fungal infection and crushing of the berries.
Pruning is done twice a year: in spring and autumn. Each of them pursues its own goals.
Autumn pruning is one of the stages of preparation for the winter period. It is carried out in October, when the night temperature is already below zero. All fruit-bearing shoots are removed, as well as stems affected by pests and diseases. All “one-year-olds” bend down to the ground in order to be protected by snow cover in winter.
In the spring, all broken and frozen shoots are removed, the tops of the remaining trunks are shortened by 0.2 m. The bush itself is thinned out, leaving no more than 10 stems. Spring pruning is done before the snow melts and serves as a stage in preparing raspberries for the new season, helping to increase yields.
The raspberry tree needs periodic updating. After 15 years of growing in one place, it is customary to transfer it to another site.
Top dressing
Zorenka Altai raspberry is sensitive to fertilizer application. Without proper nutrition, it bears little fruit and the fruits are small. The crop is fed several times per season.
In the spring, nitrogen fertilizers are applied, for example, urea (up to 80 g per meter). Before flowering and fruit set, the crop requires complex mineral compositions, and after harvesting - phosphorus and potassium. In mid-autumn, in preparation for winter, additional phosphorus-containing fertilizers are applied. The latter help annuals to lay flower stalks for the next season, and also allow them to more successfully endure a period of prolonged cold weather.
Features of growing remontant raspberries in the Urals
In the Urals, ordinary raspberry varieties freeze out due to frost, which becomes the reason for the unprofitability of this crop. Therefore, it is necessary to make a choice in favor of winter-hardy and remontant options.
Remontance is the ability to bear fruit continuously; such varieties immediately after the main harvest produces inflorescences, bloom and bear fruit.
Remontant raspberry shoots are resistant to drooping and do not need to be tied to trellises and supports. It is enough to mow the shoots in the fall and then remove them from the site to prevent the development of diseases and overwintering of pests on the stems.
But if after cutting you leave stumps, and there are plantings of ordinary raspberries nearby, such pruning will not guarantee against damage by pests and fungi. Therefore, when caring for remontant raspberries, you do not need to spend money on chemical treatments, but only devote time to correct, simple agricultural technology. And in the summer, such varieties will produce an environmentally friendly harvest.
Raspberry varieties for the Urals must have high yields and be adapted to unfavorable growing conditions. After all, the yield and taste of fruits depend on favorable wintering conditions and weather during the growing season. The yield is reduced by heavy rains during this period, which lead to inhibition of shoot growth, as well as severe frosts in November in the absence of snow cover, which leads to freezing of branches.
When growing remontant raspberries, the problem of freezing and winter drying of shoots is solved. The root system of such varieties is also very frost-resistant, so in the spring it will produce new, strong shoots.
Remontant raspberries have different ripening periods, so when purchasing seedlings, take into account the climate zone. Adapted varieties are offered by nurseries located in your area. It is optimal to choose several options in order to verify their quality in practice.
Raspberry variety Giant
Reproduction
Raspberry Zorka Altai forms a moderate number of shoots. There are not many of them, which facilitates the process of dealing with excess shoots, but there are quite enough to propagate the variety precisely by root suckers. Young shoots are planted mainly in the spring, so that during the season they have time to start growing, get stronger and prepare for the cold period.
For planting, only healthy and strong shoots are used, without signs of damage by pests or diseases. They are separated from the parent plant with a lump of earth and transferred to a permanent place. The holes for seedlings are prepared a couple of weeks in advance. Their maximum depth is up to 30-40 cm. Organic matter is laid in the bottom layer, then mineral fertilizers and ash. All this is sprinkled with a little soil. After planting, the seedlings are thoroughly watered and mulched.
To preserve moisture in the soil, as well as to block the growth of weeds, it is advisable to mulch the raspberries
In addition to shoots, the method of propagation by root cuttings is very common. To do this, dig up the raspberries a little in the spring and separate the large roots (no smaller in diameter than a pencil), which are cut into segments approximately 20 cm in length. The latter are placed in containers with fertile soil, which, for faster results, are placed in a greenhouse. It is better to put them in a greenhouse for better growth and development. By autumn, a lot of young shoots will appear, which are transferred to a permanent place of growth.
