The best self-fertile and low-growing varieties of cherries for growing in central Russia: planting and care


The best varieties of cherries for Central Russia

This variety is the leader of our top, as it has the highest self-fertility among the known cherry varieties.
Due to the fact that the tree is of medium size, and the fruits are tasty and aromatic, the Garden Yellow is always a welcome guest in any garden plot, even a small one. The yellow color of the fruits will add charm and charm to the garden, decorate the table and diversify the gardener's diet. You don’t have to wait long for fruits - the trees quickly begin to bear fruit, are characterized by active growth and high resistance to both diseases and pests, and to winter frosts, and even spring frosts.

Cherries of this variety will always provide you with a harvest, because its fruits hang on the branches without falling off or cracking even in rainy weather.

Entry into fruitingTree height (m)Fruit weight (g)HarvestPollinator varieties
For 5-6 years3,5-4,55,0-5,5Early JulyDoes not require pollinating varieties

Do you already have beautiful, tasty cherries growing in your garden?

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  • Frost resistance. The higher it is, the better.
  • Short stature. Such plants are less likely to freeze and have higher yields.
  • Late flowering period. It allows you to escape from the returning cold.
  • Self-fertility. Such varieties do not require cross-pollination, therefore, harvesting is guaranteed even when planting one plant.

Taking into account all factors, you can decide on the variety.

A tree of medium height (4-5 m) of pyramidal shape with a dense crown. Thick, shortened petioles with three to four white flowers. Flowering early. Fruits of universal use up to 9 g (considered large) are glossy, burgundy to black in color. Juicy, sweet pulp.

Self-sterile, productive (up to 30 kg) variety, resistant to fungal infections.

Lapins

A variety of Canadian selection with low frost resistance, productive with simultaneous ripening of fruits that do not fall off for a long time. The fruits are large – up to 8 g, transportable.

With enhanced agricultural technology, they reach 13 g. Orange-red color and dense pulp. A variety with great vigor, highly productive, self-fertile, late-ripening. Fruiting begins at the end of July. Universal berries.

The height of the tree usually does not exceed four meters. The crown is spreading. Under good agricultural technology, fruiting can occur in the third year after planting the seedling.

The dark burgundy berries (up to 6 g) do not fall off for a long time, ripen in July, and are picked dry. Used for processing, freezing and fresh.

Summit

The variety is frost-resistant, early-bearing. Berries (10 g) with a wine aftertaste. Transportable. Good fresh and processed. The variety is used for cross-pollination of many types of cherries.

Poetry

Tree up to 3 m with a pyramidal crown shape. Yellow fruits (6 g) with dense creamy pulp. The taste is sweet and sour. Average winter hardiness and drought resistance. The yield is high, the quality of the berries is excellent.

NameRipening timeWeightColorTasteTree heightWinter hardiness, productivity
Julia/Juliamid-earlylarge, 8 gYellow-pinkdessertaverageNo
FatezhEarly July4 gRose reddessertaverageYes
Bryansk pinkEnd of July4-5 gpink-mottledsweetaveragewinter-hardy, early-fruiting
Valery ChkalovEarly July9 graspberryexcellent dessertmedium heightwinter-hardy, early fruiting, very productive
VedaJuly4-5 gdark redthe pulp is dense, sweetlow-growing (2.5 m), spreading crown, roundedYes
OlenkaearlyUp to 10 gred to blackdessertstuntedincreased
In memory of ChernyshevskyJune4-5 gRed to blacksweet and sourtallwinter-hardy
Revnamid-late5 gBordeauxsweetMedium heightwinter-hardy
MotherlandJune July6 gBordeauxsweetishMedium heightvery winter hardy
Rossoshanskaya GoldJune July6 gyellowsweet with honey aftertastelow-growingYes

The State Register identifies three types of cherries that are approved for cultivation in Russia. These are felt cherry, common cherry and steppe cherry. There are also ornamental cherries and Sakhalin cherries, but since they are non-fruitful, they will not be considered here.

Most varieties of felt and steppe cherries are unpretentious and frost-resistant, therefore they are approved for cultivation in all regions, including in the Middle Zone. Common cherry varieties are most often heat-loving and can grow only in the southern regions, but there are also frost-resistant ones.

Usually, for good fruiting, cherries need proximity to other varieties of cherries or sweet cherries for cross-pollination. But there are so-called self-fertile (or self-pollinating) varieties that have both female and male flowers, due to which dependence on neighbors is significantly reduced. Some have flowers of such a shape that pollination can occur inside an unopened bud.

By definition, self-fertile varieties include those in which 40% (or more) of the ovaries of the total number of flowers are independently formed. In partially self-fertile people this figure is 20%.

But in any case, if possible, it is advisable to plant pollinating trees next to the cherries, which will significantly increase the number of ovaries, and as a result, the harvest.

When choosing a variety for planting, you must also remember that self-fertile varieties are often susceptible to fungal diseases. Of course, you need to give preference to trees that are resistant or moderately resistant to diseases.

What varieties of cherries are suitable for Central Russia? A question that worries many summer residents who want to grow this crop on their plot.

Unlike cherries, sweet cherries are more heat-loving and painfully tolerate very frosty winters. Thanks to the efforts of breeders, new, “hardened” varieties have been developed.

Hybrid cherries are less demanding on favorable weather conditions and, regardless of winter temperatures, bear fruit consistently.

This is the conventional name for the European part of Russia. The weather here is temperate continental. Winter begins in the second half of November and lasts almost until mid-March. January is considered the coldest. This month the thermometer can drop to 29 degrees below zero. Average winter temperatures range from minus 2 to minus 14 degrees. In this region, all winter months are snowy and frosty.

The snow begins to melt only in mid-March. Warming in the spring is often replaced by prolonged cold spells with snowfalls and frosts. Only by mid-May warm weather sets in, and the air warms up to 10-15 degrees Celsius. Although even during this period of the year return colds are possible.

Throughout the summer, the weather in central Russia is warm and comfortable. The air temperature in summer is 22-25 degrees Celsius. The weather is influenced by anticyclones, bringing with them 30-degree heat, cyclones with rain and thunderstorms.

With the arrival of September, summer gradually turns into autumn. It is gradually getting colder, at night the thermometer drops below zero, and it rains more and more often. From the second half of October the weather worsens even more. The wind becomes cold, dank, and it often rains and snows. In November, the thermometer drops to sub-zero levels. By the end of this month, the entire territory of the Middle Zone is covered with snow.

The best varieties

The climatic conditions of Central Russia allow the cultivation of various varieties of cherries. Most trees are self-fertile; to get a high yield, you need to plant several varieties of cherries in the garden.

Winter-hardy

In the European part of Russia, it is desirable to grow frost-resistant varieties, the crown of which is resistant to frost damage, and the flower buds almost do not freeze over the winter. It is best to plant those trees that bloom closer to June, and their flowers are not afraid of returning spring frosts.

A domestic hybrid, bred specifically for the Middle Zone. A tree 2.5 meters high is not afraid of winter frosts. Cherries bloom in mid-May and are not afraid of return frosts. The harvest is harvested at the end of July.

This is a table variety with sweet, medium-sized, dark cherry berries. From one mature tree you can harvest almost 23 kilograms of cherries. This variety is self-sterile. To form ovaries, pollinator trees (Bryanochka) need to be planted nearby.

Bryansk pink

It blooms in mid-May, bears fruit at the end of July and in August. Yields 25 kilograms from each tree. The berries are sweetish in taste, medium in size (one weight is up to 5.45 grams). The pulp is juicy and crispy. The skin of ripe berries has a yellowish-pink tint. This is a self-sterile crop.

Cold-resistant sweet cherry with large, almost black when ripe, very sweet berries. The height of an adult tree is 3.45 meters. It blooms in May, the berries ripen at the end of June. From each mature tree you can collect up to 45 kilograms. The variety is self-sterile.

Odrinka

Low temperature resistant variety. Blooms in May, ripens in July. The berries (each weighing 5.45 grams) have a dark cherry color, a sweetish taste, and juicy, crispy flesh. The tree is self-fertile and needs pollinators.

A winter-hardy crop that begins to bear fruit from the 5th year of life. It blooms in mid-May, the fruits are picked in early July. The berries are dark burgundy, sweetish in taste, crispy, juicy. The weight of one is 4.67 grams. From each mature tree you can pick 14-20 kilograms of berries. Partially self-fertile crop.

Pink pearl

The sweet, large, orange-pink berries can be harvested as early as the first week of July. The first fruits ripen when the tree is 5 years old. Self-sterile variety. It has excellent winter hardiness of flower buds.

Mid-early ripening tree. The berries are medium in size, sweetish in taste, yellowish-red in color. The level of winter hardiness is above average. This is a self-sterile crop.

Yellow-fruited

In a summer cottage located near a forest, it is better to plant yellow-fruited cherries. Birds do not touch yellow berries; they prefer to peck red ones. The yield of such varieties is much higher.

Drogana yellow

Seedling care

The plant does not need frequent watering; it is enough to moisten the tree well 3 times a season. At the same time, the soil near the trunk is loosened, fertilizing is introduced and then watered thoroughly. When the cherry blossoms, you can spray it with a solution of honey to attract bumblebees and bees.

Weeds have a detrimental effect on the health of the tree, so you need to get rid of them carefully. The weed-free circle around the trunk of a two-year-old cherry tree should be at least 1 m. In subsequent years, it should be expanded by about 50 cm annually, while mulching the soil. Expansion can be stopped at the age of three.

Temporary beds with honey plants can be planted between growing young cherries. Suitable plants for this include mustard or certain varieties of mint, which will attract pollinators.

To fertilize cherries use:

  • complex fertilizing for fruit and berry crops (100 g per bucket of water);
  • tincture of ash on water;
  • slurry from manure (1:8).

The solution is injected into the area of ​​the circle cleared of weeds, but not under the trunk itself - local roots poorly absorb nutrients. At the beginning of spring, up to 80 g of urea is added to each cherry.

Attention!

Before the buds swell, the cherry tree is pruned, removing dry and damaged branches.

Whitewash is applied to the trunks in early spring and late autumn to prevent cracks in the bark.

Bereket

This variety is highly self-fertile, but to increase the yield, one or a couple of varieties of pollinators can be added to it. The variety was obtained at the very beginning of the 21st century, and therefore is characterized by all the characteristics inherent in modern varieties - high winter hardiness and drought resistance, as well as resistance to pests and diseases.

Trees of the Bereket variety are medium in size; they are suitable for any, even the most modest plot. The plants quickly begin to bear fruit and produce beautiful dark red fruits with juicy, surprisingly tasty pulp.

The undoubted advantages of the variety include the high transportability of the fruits and the absence of the need for formative pruning of the tree, which makes it simply ideal for planting in the country.

Entry into fruitingTree height (m)Fruit weight (g)HarvestPollinator varieties
For 4-5 years4,8-5,35,6-6,3Beginning – mid-JuneSelf-fertile, but when pollinated by Iput and Revna varieties, the yield increases

Cherry Raditsa and other large-fruited varieties for the temperate climate zone

The best self-fertile varieties of cherries

As you know, almost all fruits are cross-pollinated, that is, for the ovary you need another plant, and of a different variety - only then can you get a good harvest. But the weather is not always favorable: constant rain, wind or cold can prevent bees and other insects from fertilizing the pistils of a flower. Consequently, the harvest immediately falls. Is there a way out? Of course, there is - self-fertile cherries can be pollinated within the same tree.

A feature of such varieties is the specific structure of the flower, where the pistil and stamens are at the same height. Thus, pollination occurs in a flower that has not yet opened, which guarantees minimal yield losses and independence from weather conditions. We bring to your attention the most popular self-pollinating varieties.

  1. People's Syubarova. One of the best self-fertile varieties that exist in Russia. You shouldn’t expect huge harvests from it - up to 40-50 kg from one tree; you can’t collect more even in a great year. The fruits are relatively large, up to 4-5 g, some grow up to 10 g, but this is very rare. The plant is powerful, tall, the branches are strong and can withstand heavy loads. Pollination reaches 98-99%, fruit ripening up to 90%. The survival rate of seedlings is up to 90%, even on sandy loam soils and loams.
  2. Ovstuzhenka. Frost-resistant, can withstand down to -45 degrees, which is why it is so popular among residents of the central and northern regions. It is a conditionally self-fertile variety, pollination occurs within one tree, the percentage of resulting ovaries is no more than 90%. Relatively large, the average weight of one berry is 4.5 grams, some are 7 grams. The advantages of the variety include stability (annually you will receive from 35 to 55 kg from one tree, even in drought or rain), as well as short stature of the trees. It makes industrial cultivation possible.
  3. Revna. The crown has a pyramidal type, the plant is small, 5-6 meters at the age of 10-11 years. Self-fertile, has berries measuring 4 grams, some are 6 grams, good taste, very sweet and aromatic. The yield is 70 centners per hectare, frost-resistant. This is the best cherry for the winter: it can withstand temperatures down to -6 degrees even during the flowering period, damage to the tree is up to 1%, and damage to pistils is up to 45%. Very high shelf life and transportability; at the stage of technical maturity it has a high density. Not watery, dry matter content – ​​14%.

Please note that self-pollination is not always the key to a huge harvest. These trees, as a rule, do not produce much fruit and you cannot collect more than 15-20 kg from an adult tree. If you need stability, this is the right choice. Among them there are extremely winter-hardy varieties of cherries; they are also not affected by fungal diseases. If you expect big profits and want to get a lot from one tree, plant proven high-yielding varieties.

The largest-fruited varieties in Russia

Quantity does not always matter, especially if the fruit is planted for its own needs. In this case, you want to get tasty and large fruits that are convenient to pick and preserve. They are also in great demand on the market because they have an excellent presentation and are often sold at a price 2 times higher than the usual “row”. We present to your attention the most prominent representatives of this category and their descriptions.

  1. Drogan cherry is yellow. One of the largest fruits in the Russian Federation, the average weight of one fruit is 6.3 grams, the maximum is 9 grams . It begins to bear fruit in the third year, you can get up to 0.5 kg of berries. In the fifth year, the yield increases to 12-18 kg, the maximum you can harvest is up to 70 kg in the 10-11th year of growth. The berries are yellow, juicy, firm, easily transported and stored. Can be used for home and industrial cultivation; the trees are low-growing, strong, and practically no pruning is required. The crown is large, pyramidal. Drogan's cherry is weakly resistant to many diseases, it is subject to attacks by fungi and insects; it requires treatment with an insecticide 2 times per season, before flowering and 3 weeks before harvesting, as when growing columnar apple trees.
  2. Melitopol black cherry. One of the best, known throughout Europe since the 70s, when 5 varieties of this variety were bred at the Melitopol breeding station. Melitopol sweet cherry has an excellent taste, has a solid weight of fruits - up to 6 g on average, and with a light load their weight reaches 9 grams. It is universal, suitable for any kind of preservation, for importing abroad, eating raw, jam, mousses and more.
  3. If you need large-fruited and winter-hardy cherries, then it is best to give preference to Pink Pearl. It has relatively large fruits (up to 5.4 g on average) and very good yield per hectare - up to 135 centners. It tolerates droughts and frosty winters well, when the average temperature does not rise above -15 degrees for 2-3 months. The tree is of medium size, not spreading, forms a pyramidal crown, the ends of the branches bend down, which greatly simplifies harvesting. Cherry Pink Pearl has an excellent presentation, shelf life and transportability, so it is suitable not only for home cultivation, but also for export.

As a rule, large-fruited varieties have lower resistance to frost, as well as to many diseases. If you want a reliable source of income, then it is better not to give preference to the varieties described above. They need proper care, preparation for winter and treatment with insecticides and fungicides against fungal diseases of the leaves.

High-yielding varieties or how to get up to 80 kg from one tree

If your main goal is to supply products to the market or sell them to canneries, then you should give preference to these varieties. They allow you to collect up to 80-100 kg from one tree, thus bringing huge profits to the owner. Their taste is excellent - they are recognized by most gardeners and are recognized in any market. Below is a list of the most popular and high-yielding varieties in Russia.

  1. Pink cherry Bryansk. The fruits are small, only 3 grams, some grow up to 5 if the year has been wet and pollination has been carried out properly. Its main advantage is its high yield - it gives up to 145 c/ha. Preparation of cherries for winter is practically not required. Before frost, all young shoots have time to become woody; it can withstand up to -35 degrees for one month. Color retention at a frost of -5 degrees in spring is 60%. If you need productive yellow cherries, Bryansk will be the most suitable option!
  2. Cherry Napoleon. One of the most stable varieties, which constantly produces up to 120 c/ha, regardless of the weather. It pollinates well, has large fruits, the weight of which often reaches 6-7 g (the average is 4 grams). Its advantages are that it is not susceptible to fungal diseases and is not eaten by insects. Insecticide treatments are almost never required; in some cases, 1 treatment is carried out 2 weeks after the tree blooms. It grows up to 6 meters in height, the crown is cone-shaped, spreading. Large-fruited cherries, which were the first to be imported to European countries and passed the quality standard. At the moment it is universal and can be used for any purpose.
  3. If you need the most productive varieties of cherries, large-fruited Zabuta and Talisman are the best choice for you. These are relatively new varieties that are very popular among Russian gardeners. They yield up to 165 c/ha, subject to good care, and this yield is stable. They are unpretentious to growing conditions: any soil is suitable, lack of moisture is not a problem, and frosty winters are not at all scary for them. Fruit size is up to 5-6 grams. The leaves are large, the crown is spreading, the branches are slightly lowered, not brittle.

By growing the varieties described above, you will receive a solid profit, because even a few trees in the country can well replenish the family budget, not to mention industrial cultivation. They are resistant to most diseases and tolerate winter well. The only drawback is the relatively small fruits compared to the first two categories of fruits.

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Goryanka

The variety was bred in the last century, but this does not mean that it is obsolete. It will give a head start to any, even the most modern cultivar, because its trees have moderate growth, resistance to drought and frost, as well as diseases and pests.

The fruits of this variety quickly set after flowering and ripen together, turning into elegant dark burgundy “dresses” with pleasant, juicy and very tasty pulp.

The variety is remarkable in that it produces good yields even if only a single tree is planted on the site. The fruits can be transported over long distances without damage, and the seeds in the berries are small and are very easily separated from the pulp.

The variety is suitable for growing in dachas and small farms.

Entry into fruitingTree height (m)Fruit weight (g)HarvestPollinator varieties
For 4-5 years4,1-4,76,0-6,4 Beginning – mid-JuneSelf-fertile, but when pollinated by Iput and Revna varieties, the yield increases

When to plant cherries

Spring planting is practiced in Siberian regions with a sharply continental climate - short summers and harsh, long winters. In the middle zone, where the climate is temperate, more humid and warm, cherry seedlings are planted in the fall - in September-October.

This period is considered the most optimal, since the gardener’s task is to allow the seedling to take root well and go into the winter before the growing season (growth and development) begins. If the deadline for autumn planting is missed, then you have to wait for spring. During this period, seedlings are buried in a shallow trench with a slope of 45 degrees until the onset of warm days.

Advantages of autumn planting cherries in the middle zone:

  • During this period, there is no need for frequent watering, since there is enough rain.
  • Seedlings are sold fresh, recently dug up. They still retain young roots and leaves that have not dried out, by which one can determine the condition of the seedling, the presence or absence of infections.
  • Large selection and relative cheapness.

And finally, in the fall the gardener has more free time than in the spring.

Landing

Cherry planting scheme

Cherries are planted in spring or autumn. In spring, you need to catch the short period between the cold nights and the beginning of bud break. In the middle zone, this is the third ten days of April.

But in the fall the planting period is quite long - from the beginning of September to the end of October. During the autumn planting period, you need to be guided by the fact that the seedling must have time to take root before frost sets in.

Cherry is a southern guest in mid-latitudes, so when choosing a planting site, you should adhere to some features:

  • there must be an obstacle from the north. Protect young seedlings from cold northern winds. To do this, you can either use the buildings protecting the northern side of the cherry tree, or plant it behind garden trees;
  • Please note: do not plant cherries at air temperatures below 0 degrees.
  • sunny side. Cherry is a sun-loving plant, so if you choose a shaded place to plant it, you may not expect good harvests ;
  • elevation. Beware of lowlands when choosing a landing site, because... High humidity can lead to fungal diseases and rotting of the root system. For planting, choose hills so that the place is well-ventilated, but not from the north.

After choosing a location, begin preparing the hole.
Its diameter should be 1 m and its depth 0.7 m. Mixed mineral and organic fertilizers should be placed at the bottom of the pit and given the shape of a hill. But add fertilizer to the seedling, drive a stake and tie the plant. Fill the hole with fertile soil and create a groove. Be sure to water the seedling well. Good to know: when planting several trees, maintain a distance of 3 m between each one.

Tyutchevka

A modern variety of sweet cherry with a whole range of useful and necessary traits for any summer resident - this is sufficient self-fertility, and modest size of the tree, and resistance to diseases, pests, frost and drought, as well as early entry into the fruiting season and, of course, excellent taste and color fruits that are good both in compote and fresh when they are full of sweet juice.

The fruits have a bizarre, wide-rounded shape, a pleasant dark red “outfit” and surprisingly juicy, tasty red pulp.

It is recommended to plant this variety on your own plot because its fruits are very pleasant to collect. The thing is that their stalk is thick and quite long, and the berries themselves come off easily, almost effortlessly, and the ripe ones hang on the branches without falling, as if waiting for you.

Due to the fact that the fruits are well transported, you can easily transport them from your dacha to your home.

Entry into fruitingTree height (m)Fruit weight (g)HarvestPollinator varieties
For 4-5 years4,0-4,35,3-7,4End of June – beginning of JulySelf-fertile, but when pollinated by Ovstuzhenka or Raditsa varieties, the yield increases

Cherry varieties: classifications

Classification of cherries by ripening time

You can provide yourself with sweet juicy fruits for almost the entire summer - from the end of June to August. To do this, you need to create in your garden a collection of early-ripening varieties of cherries (ripen around the end of June), mid-ripening (ripen around mid-July) and late-ripening varieties (ripening period - early August). Early ripening varieties of cherries - Iput, Gronkavaya, Early Rozovaya, Valery Chkalov, Fairy Tale, Chance, Rubinovaya Early, Electra, Ariadna, Chermashnaya; Mid-season varieties of cherries - Tyutchevka, Leningradskaya pink, Rechitsa, Revna, Fatezh, in memory of Chernyshevsky, Ovstuzhenka, Orlovskaya Pink, Veda, Adeline, Poetry, Pink Pearl, Dnieper, Dilemma; Late-ripening varieties of cherries - Prestizhnaya, Leningradskaya black, Red dense, Bryanskaya Pink, Orion, Romantika, Turovtsev's lyubitsa.

Classification of cherries by fruit color

Black (dark red cherries): Veda, Adeline, Tyutchevka, Bryanochka, Revna, Raditsa, Leningradskaya Black, Iput, Gronkavaya, Ariadna, Ovstuzhenka, Rechitsa, Michurinka; Yellow cherries: Chermashnaya, Drogana yellow, Homestead yellow, Red dense (yellow cherry with a red barrel); Pink cherry: Leningrad pink, Early pink, Oryol pink, Bryansk pink, Fatezh; Orange cherry: Pink pearl;

Classification of cherry varieties according to taste

Sweet cherries: Michurinskaya, Raditsa, Ovstuzhenka, Tyutchevka, Rechitsa, Leningradskaya black, Chermashnaya, Iput, Gronkavaya, Bryansk pink, Ariadna, Revna; Sweet cherries with sourness: Early pink, Poetry, Orlovskaya pink, Fatezh, Pink pearl.

Classification of cherries by pulp structure

Conventionally, according to the density of the pulp, cherries are divided into two groups - with tender, soft pulp (gini) or dense, crunchy (bigarro). Varieties of guini cherries: Early pink, Orlovskaya pink, Lningradskaya black, Leningradskaya pink, Chermashnaya, Iput; Varieties of bigarro cherries: Michurinka, Poetry, Fatezh, Rechitsa, Bryansk pink, Ariadna. Description of cherry varieties with photos

How to choose and plant cherries correctly

Before purchasing, you need to decide in advance whether this plant will be rooted or on a rootstock. If the second option, then when purchasing, you need to find the grafting site - it has a pronounced thickening just above the root collar.

In addition, the tree must have a main conductor, which will subsequently become the main trunk, and pruning will be done with an eye on it. If there is no central conductor, then the result will be a highly branched plant with a high risk of breaking the crown during the fruiting period.

Immediately before planting, the plant is inspected again to identify any shortcomings and:

  • remove “soaked” roots;
  • trim very long root ends;
  • cut off those roots that do not fit into the planting hole;
  • tear off remaining foliage.

Under no circumstances should branches be cut, unless they are broken during transportation.

If there are dried roots, before planting they are placed in water for several hours (from 2 to 10) to become saturated with moisture.

When the seedlings are dealt with, you need to determine a favorable place for planting cherries. This should be a well-lit area, protected from the north wind.

It “feels” best on loams and sandy loams with good aeration.

The planting site is carefully dug up, weeds removed, and leveled with a rake. Planting holes are planned at a distance of 4-5 meters from each other. Their diameter and depth are 80-90 cm. When the cherry orchard is planned and the holes are ready, the following is added to them:

  • humus - 3 buckets;
  • ash – 1 l;
  • superphosphate – 0.2 kg;
  • potash fertilizers – 0.1 kg.

In addition, if the soil is clayey, a bucket of sand is poured into the hole; if the soil is sandy, a bucket of clay is poured into the hole. Mix everything with a shovel and form a small mound in the center for convenient placement of the roots.

You can start planting. First, a support peg is stuck into the hole, then the seedling is placed strictly vertically and the roots are carefully straightened along the slopes of the mound. It is necessary to ensure that the root collar and the scion site (if any) are 3 cm above the ground surface. The roots are sprinkled with soil, shaking the tree periodically. When the process is half completed, a bucket of water is poured into the hole and planting is completed. The earth around is carefully compacted.

Then, they tie the plant to a support and, stepping 30 cm around the circumference from the trunk, make a small depression into which another bucket of water is poured. It is advisable to mulch the planting site with rotted sawdust or compost. If the soil settles after a few days, it should be added to the general level.

Basic growing rules

Regardless of which variety is preferred, it is worth remembering a few basic rules for growing cherries.

Firstly, it is better to choose a site for seedlings that is protected from northern winds. If possible, cherries should be planted on the south side of buildings or on a gentle slope, preferably in a sunny place, as this is a light-loving crop.

Secondly, cherries grow very poorly on heavy clay or peaty soils and sandstones. It is better to give preference to loamy or sandy areas, away from groundwater.

The site for future planting of seedlings has been prepared since the fall. Dig a hole 50-60 cm deep and about 80 cm wide, add humus there and cover it again with earth. In the spring, phosphate fertilizer is added in combination with ash or sodium sulfate and mixed thoroughly.

It is not recommended to add too much fertilizer because... Cherry is highly susceptible to growth stimulants, and therefore there is a possibility of the formation of too many branches that will not have time to ripen during the season and will then freeze over the winter.

Under no circumstances should you plant too deep. The root collar should be at soil level, and to be on the safe side, it is better to raise the seedling by 4-5 cm in the expectation that the soil will certainly settle after planting.

It is better to apply fertilizers in early spring, in April or May. And to prepare the tree for winter, you can apply a small amount of phosphorus fertilizers in September.

The shoots need to be pruned annually, since in cherries they form extremely intensively. This is done only in the spring, and in no case in the summer or autumn. Trees older than five years are thinned out with great care, since at this age branching weakens.

If necessary, sanitary pruning is carried out, during which all broken, dried or diseased branches are removed. The sections are cleaned and treated with garden putty.

In autumn and spring, it is advisable to regularly whitewash not only the trunk, but also the bases of the skeletal branches; for the winter, carefully cover with improvised means (dry grass, spruce branches, etc.) and snow from rodents and frost.

As for the fruiting period, the biggest problem for cherries is birds. Many gardeners know that the entire crop can be destroyed in just an hour. To protect against birds, stuffed animals, rattles, various shiny elements, and even plush cats are used, which are placed on branches.

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Danna

A rare variety can boast of a complete absence of flaws, Danna is one of them. The trees stand out among others with their luxurious pyramidal crown, which practically does not thicken and requires only sanitary pruning, its highest resistance to winter frosts and spring frosts, as well as to pests and diseases.

It is worth planting at least one seedling of the Danna variety on your plot, and you will soon receive a good harvest of large and lined fruits of a pleasant dark red color. And their pulp will be juicy, tender and so pleasant to the taste that you will eat all the berries without noticing.

Entry into fruitingTree height (m)Fruit weight (g)HarvestPollinator varieties
For 4-5 years4,0- 4,74,5-4,9Beginning – mid-JuneSelf-fertile, but when pollinated by Iput and Revna varieties, the yield increases

How to care for cherries

Caring for cherries after planting is practically not required:

  • The main thing is to protect it from rodents, frostbite, damping off and sunburn. To do this, the trunk should be whitened, wrapped in burlap and toxic chemicals should be spread out. In cold winters, it is better to add snow.
  • In the spring, when the snow melts, the trunk and skeletal branches are whitened to reflect the sun's rays and to prevent disease.
  • During the growing season, cherries require watering 1-2 times a month: young ones require 2 buckets, adults – 5-6 buckets of water.
  • For the first 2-3 years, only nitrogen fertilizers are applied in the spring - they stimulate the growth of branches and green mass.
  • Starting from the 4th year, the full mineral complex is added.

The soil under the trees can be mulched, turfed, or kept fallow.

Selection of seedlings

Cherry seedlings 1-2 years

The choice of cherry seedlings must be approached seriously, because...
Further successful fruit growing depends on this. Seedlings should not be mature trees that are 3 or more years old.
The best option is 1-2 year old plants, with 3-4 frame branches and a length of up to 0.5 m, with a trunk diameter of 16 mm. If the trees are older, adaptation takes longer and the seedlings tolerate new natural and soil conditions less well. When choosing, you should pay attention to the roots and trunk.

The roots are well developed without damage. The trunk is smooth, has a smooth surface, and is free of spots, scales and wrinkles. There should be no broken buds on the seedling, because... Only from them do young shoots appear.

Dolores

A variety with a romantic name that will not leave anyone indifferent. It will be useful for gardeners in a hurry who are not used to waiting for a long time for the harvest, for those who do not want to use a stepladder to pick every last berry, and for those who want to see healthy and lushly flowering plants when they arrive at the dacha or return to the garden in the spring.

Those with a sweet tooth will also not be disappointed - the fruits of the Dolores variety have all the qualities to satisfy the taste of even the most fastidious cherry lover. Each fruit, like fresh candy, is “packed” in a dark burgundy wrapper and contains a small, almost imperceptible seed, which is hidden in a juicy, tasty and aromatic burgundy pulp with a piquant sourness, which does not spoil at all, but, on the contrary, gives the taste sophistication.

The fruits are suitable for all types of processing, and the trees are suitable for planting in any, even the smallest area.

Entry into fruitingTree height (m)Fruit weight (g)HarvestPollinator varieties
For 4-5 years3,5-3,85,5-6,2Mid JuneSelf-fertile, but when pollinated by Iput and Revna varieties, the yield increases

Pruning and shaping cherries

Cherry is a fairly common crop in Russia in general and in the middle zone in particular. This is the oldest variety of cherry. In modern conditions, dozens of varieties have been bred with different size, taste and color of berries, height and spreading of the crown, and timing of fruit ripening.

One of the mandatory procedures for caring for cherries is pruning and shaping the tree. It allows you to achieve regular abundant harvests. Improper implementation of these measures inevitably leads to weakening and death of the plant.

Spring pruning of skeletal branches before the start of sap flow is preferable, since they are clearly visible, and with the onset of a warm period, the risk of freezing disappears. The wounds heal quickly.

For the middle zone, the optimal time for the procedure is the end of March-beginning of April. In the autumn, after leaf fall and until October, sanitary pruning is carried out and the crown is thinned out.

Young seedlings begin to form from the first year when they reach 50-55 cm. If the trees have not yet grown to this height, then pruning is postponed until next year. So:

  • In the first year, the conductor (main trunk) is shortened to 50 cm, leaving 5-6 buds (skeletal branches will develop from them).
  • In the second year, the skeletal branches are shortened to 45-50 cm, and excess shoots of the second tier are removed, leaving only the strongest. The conductor is shortened in this way: four buds are counted from the first tier and cut off.
  • In the third year, the second tier is laid in the same way as the first, taking into account that its branches should be 20 cm smaller than the branches of the first tier. All vertical shoots and crowns growing inwards are also removed.
  • In the fourth year, the conductor is cut at the level of the weakest skeletal branch.
  • In the fifth and subsequent years, sanitary pruning is carried out to thin out the crown. Throughout the life of the tree, root shoots are removed.

If all agrotechnical practices are followed and with proper formation, the cherry tree will delight you with its flowering and abundant harvests from year to year.

Timing and methods of planting a tree

You need to buy a seedling during the season when it will be moved to open ground. In warm regions, planting should be done in the fall. However, the procedure must be postponed to next year if cold weather is approaching. Roots that are not yet strong will quickly die when the soil freezes. In this case, you need to choose a place that is not windy. If the entire territory of the summer cottage is not fenced, at first you can build a small fence for the tree.

Cherry roots grow vertically, so the plant may not take root in a garden where groundwater is located higher than 200 cm from the surface. Also, when choosing a location, you need to avoid lowlands. With the onset of spring, melt water will accumulate in them, an excess of which will negatively affect the root system of the young tree. Also, the chances of a plant to take root depend on the soil. Cherries feel worst in clay or peat soil. In such an area you will have to add the substrate yourself. You can use sandy loam soil or loam.

Attention!

For a better harvest, you need to plant 2-3 cherries of different varieties nearby.

There are 2 ways to plant cherries: by pitting them or by placing a seedling in open ground. Each of them has its own specifics. It is better for a novice gardener to choose the second option, because... growing a tree from a berry is much more difficult. When choosing a seedling, you need to pay attention to the age of the tree. Plants younger than 1 year or older than 3 years may not take root and will die with the onset of the first frost. Young cherries should not be planted next to walnuts, peaches or pears. The tree will best take root next to a plum or apple tree.

Pridonskaya

This variety closes our top 7. But you should not think that it does not have sufficient self-fertility to produce crops, even if you have only one tree growing on your site. It's not like that at all. Despite partial self-fertility, Pridonskaya cherries will supply you with a harvest in the form of very large, one-dimensional fruits of a rich bright red color with pink, slightly gristly and very juicy pulp with a pleasant, refreshing sweet and sour taste.

The variety is also valuable because its yield is stable and annual, because the flowers are not afraid of spring frosts, and the plant itself is not afraid of severe frosts and summer heat.

The variety is suitable for growing both in the country and in a medium-sized garden; its trees do not require any pruning other than sanitary pruning, and no protection, because they do not get sick and are extremely rarely affected by pests.

Entry into fruitingTree height (m)Fruit weight (g)HarvestPollinator varieties
For 5-6 years3,8-4,55,0-6,5Beginning - mid-JuneSelf-fertile, but when pollinated by Iput and Revna varieties, the yield increases

We looked at the most interesting varieties of cherries that deserve the attention of both amateur gardeners and professionals. The listed varieties have all the characteristics inherent in modern varieties and are also characterized by high self-fertility, which will allow you to grow not only cherries, but also plants of other species on your plot. Do not forget that it is best to plant trees of self-fertile varieties, like other stone fruits, in the spring.

What are self-fertile varieties?

First, a little theory. Varieties can be divided into two types: self-fertile and self-sterile. What's the difference? It's simple. We are accustomed to knowing from childhood that bees fly and pollinate trees; this is the only way there will be a good harvest. If the year turned out to be windy, there were a lot of insects, then very few fruits are set or none at all.

Selection never stands still and, along with self-fertile trees, there are self-fertile varieties. These are magnificent views that do everything themselves. That is, the tree does not require additional pollinating varieties that should be planted nearby, or the presence of insects. Such varieties can produce up to 50% of the harvest themselves. There are also less productive varieties, the so-called semi-self-fertile ones - they set 20-30% of the berries.

Advice!

You can plant a whole array of cherries that will pollinate themselves, but in order for the harvest to be several times larger, it is better to plant at least one tree for pollination.

It is also worth noting that pollination in many self-fertile varieties begins already in an unopened flower, which provides an additional guarantee under unfavorable conditions. Next, we will tell you about some of the best cherries that do not require pollination. They have been grown by summer residents for decades, they have proven themselves, and you can take note and plant these varieties in the new season.

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