What to do if the leaves on the cherry tree do not bloom (dry, wither),

Reasons for drying out cherries

Every gardener who grows fruit trees on his own plot begins to worry if he notices that the leaves are drying on the tree and the plant is dying. This often happens with cherries. To prevent this process, you need to understand why cherry leaves dry out and find out what to do to avoid this unpleasant phenomenon and get a good harvest of berries as a result.

Preventive measures

To prevent yellowing of leaves, it is recommended to carry out preventive measures :

1. Purchase varieties that are suitable for the respective region.
2. Plant trees in favorable places, away from apple and pear trees.
3. Regularly inspect cherries for signs of diseases and pests.
4. Carry out timely pruning of the plant in dry weather, using clean tools. Treat wounds with garden varnish.
5. Apply water at the root, bypassing leaves, fruits and shoots.
6. Feed the plant in a timely manner.
7. In the fall, dig up the soil under the tree. Remove weeds and debris.
8. Produce lime whitewash in the autumn. To remove fungal spores, copper sulfate is added to the lime.
9. Cover cherries for the winter.

Possible causes of drying cherries

As soon as you notice that the tree begins to dry out at a young age, you should immediately be wary and find out why the cherry is drying out. If you do absolutely nothing in the current situation, then soon you will have no chance at all to save the plant. It is important to take the necessary measures in time to eliminate the death process.

One of the key mistakes often made by many gardeners, due to which the seedling dries out, is improper planting of the plant. To make the tree feel comfortable, you need to choose a place that is well lit and ventilated, but not in a draft. The drying process will not begin if the plant is planted in a place located at least on a slight hill. Despite the fact that many varieties are frost-resistant, it is very important to choose a site that is not blown by northern winds, and among the ideal soil options, you should choose medium loam or sandy loam. If you do not adhere to these features of planting a seedling, the cherry tree will quickly dry out and the leaves will fall off.

Among the reasons why any cherry variety dries out are the following:

• adverse weather conditions;
• presence of diseases;
• exposure to pests;
• improper care.

It is worth paying attention to the fact that each selected type of cherry has its own drawback. It lies in the fact that drought in summer is destructive for frost-resistant species. Trees that are accustomed to high temperatures cannot tolerate severe frosts.

Why do cherries dry out and what to do?

The moment the cherry tree branches begin to dry out, the gardener should sound the alarm. If you leave this fact without due attention, the tree will soon wither completely. It is necessary to determine the cause of drying out as quickly as possible and eliminate it immediately.

Here it is immediately worth mentioning the issue of mistakes when planting cherries. She loves a lot of light and a well-ventilated area, preferably on a hill, even an artificial one. Like any heat-loving plant, even frost-resistant varieties should be protected from northern winds. The most favorable soil is sandy loam or medium loamy. Failure to follow these rules can greatly affect the development and growth of cherries.

Why do even cherry trees planted according to all the rules dry out?

Probable reasons:

— unfavorable weather conditions;

Adverse weather conditions

The disadvantage of selective cherry varieties is that frost-resistant varieties tolerate drought extremely poorly, and conversely, varieties that thrive in high temperatures cannot tolerate frost.

Exposure to weather conditions

In conditions of excessive heat, all the soil is burned. It loses its unique properties. When wondering why cherry leaves dry out, we can conclude that the main reason is lack of moisture. In order to improve the condition of the tree and ensure that young cherries do not dry out in the summer, it is necessary to systematically and frequently water the soil. To fully provide moisture around the trunk, you can make small depressions into which water will flow. Many gardeners, after the watering process, cover the soil with artificial materials so that the moisture does not evaporate and the branches and leaves on the tree do not dry out.

If the seedling is not prepared for winter, freezing often occurs. It leads to the fact that in the spring the branches of the tree dry out, and the resulting leaves wither and fall off. In the worst case, the trunk cracks, after which it will not be able to resist pests and diseases. To avoid the process of freezing cherries, you need to carry out simple steps.

1. Systematically prune those branches on the tree that have dried out or been affected by disease.
2. Constantly fertilize the root system in the autumn.
3. Remove dried bark.
4. Coat the tree trunk with water-based paint or whitewash it.
5. Cover the seedling with insulating material that can protect it from severe frosts.

If these rules are followed in the spring, the tree grows healthy and continues to develop.

Wrong landing site

One of the common reasons why cherries dry out is errors in the tree planting process. It should grow in a well-lit and ventilated place. But drafts should not be allowed.

If the tree is located at a slight elevation, it is highly likely that it will not be subject to drying of leaves and fruits. At higher elevations, the root system is protected from excessive groundwater.

Most cherry varieties are frost resistant. But you can’t plant them in places blown by cold northern winds. The composition of the soil also plays an important role. For fruit trees, sandy or loamy soil is optimal.

Summer drought is also a negative factor. Cherry varieties with increased frost resistance are especially susceptible to this. In turn, heat-resistant varieties die from frost. Therefore, it is better to plant frost-resistant varieties, but water them abundantly in dry summers.

Violation of these requirements leads to the fact that the cherry tree dries out after flowering, the leaves quickly fall off and the process of drying out of the branches begins. Thus, the tree will gradually die.

If it is still possible, it is worth transplanting the seedling to another place. If this possibility is no longer possible due to the age of the tree, it is worth trying to create favorable conditions in this place - apply fertilizers, protect from drafts, ensure good lighting and breathability.

Influence of pests

It often happens that cherry leaves and branches dry out due to the harmful effects of pests. Among the most common insects that negatively affect the condition of the tree are the Californian scale insect and bark beetles.

If you notice that your young cherries are drying out, check them for the presence of a pest such as California scale insects. In the first weeks after the lesion, it is practically invisible, since the size of already adult individuals reaches about 2 mm, and sometimes less. In fact, the impact of this pest can only be noticed after several life cycles have passed. This leads to the formation of a special growth on the bark, consisting of dead insect scutes.

The basis of the scale insect's nutrition is cherry juice, so cracked bark is often observed on the tree, and the plant gradually withers. To avoid this, all affected areas should be cut off and burned immediately. Then you need to treat the plant with special chemicals.

Often the presence of insects such as bark beetles can contribute to the drying out of cherries. The greatest danger is posed by the gypsy western bark beetle, which has a destructive effect on young seedlings of sweet cherry, cherry and dogwood.

Old trees will be the most vulnerable. To determine the presence of such pests, you need to pay attention to the bark. If there are many miniature passages in it, the cherry tree has been attacked by these insects. To get rid of them, you should:

1. regularly prune, water, feed, spray the tree;
2. in early spring, while buds have not yet appeared on the branches, the tree should be treated with a special anti-bark beetle agent;
3. all branches that are affected by this insect must be cut off and burned.

Problems when growing cherries

Often, a gardener, faced with some incomprehensible (but clearly unpleasant) sign of a disease when growing cherries (and not only), cannot always establish an accurate diagnosis. Sometimes it is difficult to immediately determine whether it is a disease or the consequences of a pest attack. Let's look at the most common cases.

Berries rotting on a tree

The most common cause is widespread moniliosis . With scab and some other diseases, the berries also eventually begin to rot, but before that, the disease is usually diagnosed by primary symptoms.

Leaves on cherry trees turn yellow

Premature yellowing of cherry leaves is caused by violations of agricultural practices. Most likely reasons:

• Incorrect landing site chosen. When groundwater is close to the groundwater and in flooded, swampy places, the roots of the plant begin to warm up, as a result of which the leaves turn yellow. In this case, to eliminate the problem, you will need to transplant the tree to a suitable place or carry out drainage work.
• Excessive watering, creating waterlogging.
• Moisture deficiency. Cherry is a moisture-loving plant, and in drought conditions on sandy and sandy loam soils, young trees, the root system of which has not yet been formed, suffer from this. Therefore, you should regularly water the cherries, maintaining soil moisture at a depth of 40-50 cm, but also avoiding waterlogging.
• Damage to roots by soil pests - moles, beetles. Young trees with poorly developed roots are sensitive to this.
• Chemical burn of leaves. It is caused by accidental contact with herbicides on the crown or as a result of their incorrect dosage during planned treatments. For example, Bordeaux mixture or copper sulfate are often used for treatments against fungi and pests. During early spring eradication treatments, their concentration in the solution is 5%. If you treat the leaves with this solution, they will get severe burns. During the growing season, these solutions are used in a concentration of 0.5-1%.
• Deficiency of nutrients that occurs due to unbalanced or insufficient nutrition (chlorosis). If the plant does not have enough nitrogen or calcium, the leaves begin to discolor. With iron deficiency, they dry out and crumble. In such cases, it is necessary to apply appropriate fertilizers at the root or by foliar feeding as soon as possible with a dosage according to the instructions.

Why do cherry tree leaves turn white in summer?

Lightening of leaf blades, as a rule, is caused by chlorosis in its initial stage, as well as by a deficiency of basic elements - nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium. The plant should be fed with urea or saltpeter (20-30 g/m2) and potassium monophosphate (20 g/m2). After watering, mulch thoroughly with organic matter (humus, compost) with the addition of wood ash.

If powdery coating gives the leaves a white color, then this is a sign of powdery mildew disease.

Black spots on leaves

Blurred black spots in the form of a powdery coating are a sign of sooty fungus. Small brown or black spots are scab.

Cherry leaves curl

Leaves rolled into a tube most often indicate that aphids have settled inside them. It’s easy to verify this - you just need to unfold the leaf. Another leaf-curling pest is the leaf roller, which is also easy to spot by unrolling the leaf.

If the leaves are not just curled, but also lumpy, then most likely the plant is infected with leaf curl.

Sticky leaves on a cherry tree

Typically, sticky leaves are caused by honeydew when cherry trees are infested with aphids.

Why cherries don’t bloom and what to do

Possible causes of this problem include the following:

• The time for the young tree to bear fruit has simply not arrived. Some cherry varieties bloom for the first time 5-7 years after planting. When purchasing seedlings, you should study their varietal characteristics.
• Wrong landing site. If the cherry tree is planted in dense shade or in a flooded area, then it most likely will not bloom.
• Insufficient nutrition. If it is deficient, the plant will first of all spend nutrients on the growing season, and what remains will be used for fruiting. Therefore, fertilizers should be applied regularly and in the required quantities.
• Freezing of flower buds in winter. To avoid this problem, it is worth planting only zoned varieties.

The cherry tree has not blossomed after winter, what to do?

The most likely reason is freezing of the roots and (or) the trunk. This can happen even in the coldest winter, since freezing often occurs as a result of significant temperature fluctuations during winter thaws. To diagnose freezing, you should make longitudinal cuts on the trunk and roots with a sharp knife and examine the color of the bark and cambium. If they are light brown in color, then frostbite is minor and the plant can be helped. To do this, you need to do severe pruning, since the weakened root system is not able to provide nutrition to the extensive crown. You should also feed the cherry with humus, since it will need increased nutrition to restore strength.

If the color of the cambium and bark is dark brown or brown, then frostbite was severe. In this case, there is no guarantee for its restoration. You can try to grow a new shoot from a dormant bud near the root collar, but the chances are slim.

To prevent problems in the winter, you should insulate the root system by mulching, and the trunk and thick branches by insulating them with spunbond or other suitable materials. If the winters are snowy, then you need to shovel more snow towards the trunk, but in the spring it should be removed to prevent it from getting warm.

The second option for frostbite is that the branches of the crown are damaged, but the trunk and roots are intact. In this case, it is almost certainly possible to grow new shoots from dormant buds on the trunk.

In all cases of frostbite, if there is growth in the root zone, then it should not be removed in the first year. It will help nourish the roots of damaged cherries.

Why does the ovary fall off on a cherry tree?

This unpleasant phenomenon is caused by various reasons:

• Excessive soil acidity (soils with normal acidity in the range of pH 6.5-7.5 are suitable for cherry trees). The problem is solved by deoxidizing with lime or dolomite flour (400-500 g/m2), which is added in the fall during digging.
• Lack of nutrition.
• Lack of pollinators due to self-sterility of the variety.
• Bad weather conditions that prevent bees from flying during the flowering period.
• The crown is dense - ovaries in shaded areas develop poorly and fall off.
• Overload with harvest - the plant itself normalizes it.
• Moisture deficiency.

Fruit cracking

It is caused by excess moisture in the berries. Water enters the fruit in two ways. The first is from the soil through the root and vascular systems. In heavy clay soils and chernozems, a constant pressure of juices is usually maintained, and in light sandy and sandy loam soils, with irregular watering, the amount of moisture periodically fluctuates, which can cause cracking of the fruits.

The second way moisture enters the berries is through the cuticle (the so-called outer waxy layer covering parts of the plant, including the fruit) during rains. At the same time, moisture penetrates abundantly through microscopic cracks and scratches, while nourishing the fruits more strongly than through the vascular system. A large number of cracks occur during drought due to drying out of the cuticles.

Cracking of cherry berries is caused by excess moisture

Conclusion: to avoid cracking, the plant should be provided with a constant level of humidity through regular watering in the absence of precipitation. Do not allow the soil to dry out or become waterlogged. And also two weeks before harvesting, watering is sharply limited or stopped altogether.

Worms in cherries: how to get rid of them

To do this, you need to fight their source - the cherry fly.

Cherries don't grow, what to do?

If the cherry seedling is healthy, planted in the right place and in compliance with planting rules, then the cherry will grow and develop normally. If this does not happen, then a mistake was made somewhere. Possible options:

• An unregistered variety was planted, which is not suitable for local conditions.
• Close occurrence of groundwater, stagnation of moisture in the root zone.
• High soil acidity. In this case, it will need to be deoxidized.
• The tree is planted in the shade.
• Nutritional deficiency.
• Soil pests that damage roots.

Diseases

Many gardeners do not know what to do when they notice that in early spring there is a gradual process of tree withering. At the first stage, small branches begin to dry, and after 2-3 years, the growth of the cherry stops and it dies. One possible cause may be verticillium. To determine this disease, you should pay attention to the following factors:

1. strips of bark gradually peel off in small quantities;
2. gum flows from the cracks.

This fungal disease affects trees under 7 years of age, but there are also cases where older cherries suffer from this disease, although its development is an order of magnitude slower. To carry out prevention, the following conditions must be adhered to:

1. do not plant plants near cherries that may be affected by fungal diseases;
2. do not plant on clay and heavy soil;
3. for high breathability, constantly loosen the soil;
4. all instruments used for processing must be thoroughly disinfected;
5. the root collar should be located from the soil surface at a distance of no more than 5 cm;
6. carry out systematic treatment with polycarbacin, polychome and cuprosate.

In addition to verticillium, cherries can be susceptible to a fungal disease such as moniliosis. It is determined simply. It is worth paying attention to whether there are dried leaves on the cherry. You can see the burns on them. The plant's shoots, inflorescences and even fruits gradually dry out.

Prevention of the disease is simple: you need to ensure that the soil in which the plant is located is not too waterlogged, since fungal spores quickly develop in a humid environment. If you got rid of certain parts of an already infected tree, then you need to make sure that these fragments do not fall into the uninfected area of ​​your garden or vegetable garden. During the flowering stage of the tree, you need to ensure that the weather is warm and dry. Do not forget that annual treatment with fungicides is the key to active growth and flowering of cherries.

Prevention of diseases and pests

Timely and regular sanitary and preventive work will in most cases relieve the gardener of problems associated with cherry diseases and pests. These works are simple and do not require significant labor costs.

Table: preventive and sanitary measures to prevent diseases and pest attacks

Why can cherries dry out?

A gardener most often notices that a tree is sick or has been attacked by pests when external signs appear, such as wilting, drying of foliage, and ovaries. The problem should be solved quickly, since external lesions lead to a decrease or absence of yield, and sometimes even to the death of the plant.

Errors during landing

The main factor influencing the fact that cherries dry out is failure to follow the correct process of planting the tree. The plant loves light and sun. It should be protected from cold winds and drafts.

When purchasing a seedling in a nursery or at garden markets, pay attention to the above-ground part of the plant and the rhizome. It is recommended to plant an annual plant, as it takes root faster.

Important: overdried roots provoke the death of the entire tree.

Timely planting remains an important factor. The hole for the seedling is prepared in advance so that the soil in it is stable, and the root collar is located at or slightly above the ground. If you stick a plant into a fresh hole, it, along with the soil, will settle, which will lead to oppression of the culture.

You cannot plant the plant shallowly, otherwise the root system of the cherry seedling will begin to dry out. It is not recommended to add a lot of mineral fertilizer into the planting hole. As a result, the tree may begin to dry out and die.

Adverse climatic conditions

Unfavorable weather has a harmful effect. A hot, dry climate leads to the fact that the leaves of cherries that have already begun to bear fruit may begin to dry out. The situation can be corrected with regular watering. It is recommended to dig a shallow ditch around the tree. After watering, the soil is mulched with sawdust and grass. The mulch layer should be at least 10 centimeters.

This crop is a heat-loving plant, so it must be carefully prepared for winter. Otherwise, next spring the young leaves will fall off and the trunk will crack and become bare. The following steps will help you avoid freezing:

• trim damaged branches;
• remove dead bark;
• in the fall, wrap the seedling with covering material;
• fertilize the rhizome well before preparing for winter;
• paint the trunk with lime or special paint.

Without protection from adverse weather conditions, the plant loses moisture, fruiting decreases or stops.

Impact of diseases

The garden needs systematic protection. Various diseases lead to crop loss, drying of shoots and leaves. Many diseases can be prevented if signs of their development are noticed in time. The most common are fungal infections, which appear mainly due to careless gardening. Bacterial infection is less common.

Verticillium

The infection causes the tree to dry out. The disease most often affects young plants and is characterized by the following symptoms:

• the edges of the leaves curl along the main vein;
• the buds bloom and fade after 7-10 days;
• The fruits stop ripening.

As a result, the foliage falls off and the trunk is completely exposed. Root feeding with wood ash, urea or potassium sulfate helps against the disease.

What to do to prevent cherries from drying out from frost?

Cherries that are not prepared for winter can freeze in extreme cold. The most harmless thing that can result is dried buds and young shoots in the spring. The worst option is a cracked trunk, which becomes defenseless against disease.

How to avoid freezing:

— abundant fertilizer of the root zone in the fall;

- pruning affected branches;

- peeling off dead bark;

— whitewashing the trunk with lime mortar or coating with water-based paint;

— young seedlings are protected by completely covering them with insulating material, after driving pegs around the trunk and compactly rolling up the crown.

What to do if the reasons are not determined?

After examining the tree and not seeing signs of diseases or insects, it is recommended to pay attention to the rhizome of the tree. It can be damaged by moles or larvae of the mole cricket and the May beetle.

They get rid of moles using professional preparations, the acoustic method, and repellent odors. You can protect a tree from burrowing harmful insects using a soap solution, marigolds planted nearby and various traps, as well as chemicals.

The cause of leaf wilting may be exceeding the norm of applied fertilizer. An agronomist can determine the exact cause of drying of shoots and leaves. A professional will not only identify the factor that negatively affects the tree, but will also give advice on how to restore the plant.

Cherry diseases: leaf rust

The initial signs of the disease are the formation of red and brown “swells” on the leaves of trees, reminiscent of rust spots. The source of infection is a fungus that overwintered on last year’s leaves. When the disease is advanced, the trees shed their “rusty” leaves early, and most of the crop dies.

Actions to prevent the disease include keeping the garden area clean, regularly inspecting plants and removing suspicious formations on branches and bark.

Cherry rust is caused by the parasitic fungus Thekopsora padi.

Copper oxychloride is used to treat affected cherries. Trees are treated with oxychloride (80 g per 10 l) after flowering, and in the fall, after harvesting fruits, with Bordeaux mixture (1% solution).

How to prevent drying out?

Having discovered massive drying out of branches and fruits on a tree due to disease, you need to immediately take preventive action. Namely:

• remove infected shoots and burn;
• carry out sanitary pruning to control the condition of the crown;
• lubricate the cracks in the trunk with garden varnish;
• collect fallen leaves and burn;
• dig the soil around the tree deeply;
• After flowering, treat the plant with Bordeaux mixture and copper sulfate.

Attention should be paid to caring for the crop, namely, ensuring timely watering, mulching, pruning, whitewashing and shelter for the winter. The first treatment should be carried out before the buds open. Urea and iron sulfate are suitable for this. Then mandatory autumn spraying is carried out after harvesting the fruits. Suitable for treatment are preparations that increase resistance to adverse weather - Zircon, Ecoberin biocomplex.

The most effective remedy for diseases is compliance with agrotechnical rules, as well as proper care.

It is important for a gardener to recognize signs of disease and identify harmful insects in a timely manner. This will help you choose effective ways to protect the tree and get a generous harvest.

The ovary of the cherry tree falls off

When do cherries ripen in Uzbekistan?

The tree begins to lose ovaries due to improper care, which requires an integrated approach to solving the problem. They begin to fall off en masse for several reasons:

1. Excessively acidic soil. At a distance of 1 m from the center of the tree trunk circle, 400 g of lime or dolomite flour are added per square meter.
2. Nutrient deficiency. In the spring and summer seasons, the minimum number of fertilizer applications is three times. It is necessary to apply complex mineral fertilizer - 50 g per square meter, alternating it with an infusion of mullein (bird droppings) - 2-3 buckets with abundant watering. One of the feedings should be carried out immediately after the cherry blossoms. In the fall, the tree needs to be given potassium and superphosphate.
3. Excessively thickened crown. In the spring, before the buds open, you need to prune. Old and inward-growing branches are removed so that the middle of the crown allows sunlight to pass through.
4. Self-sterility. Such varieties of cherries need the proximity of other varieties that are pollinators.
5. Exhaustion. A harvest that is too rich can deplete the cherry tree, and it will not have enough strength to lay new flower buds. Therefore, after collecting the fruits, it is necessary to fertilize and water the tree thoroughly. Autumn feeding is required: humus (15 kg), superphosphate (300 g), potassium (100 g) per square meter. The mixture is applied at a distance of 50 cm from the trunk, at the location of the suction roots.
6. Dry period. If the spring is dry, do not let the plant dry out. Cherries should be watered during flowering, as well as after it. It is recommended to apply nitrogen fertilizers at the same time.
7. Groundwater. Cherries will wilt if the groundwater is too close, less than 1.5 m.
8. Lack of pollination. Prolonged rainy weather can cause the extinction of pollinating insects. The ability to fertilize is retained in pollen for 3-5 days. It is necessary to spray the trees with honey water (100 g of honey, sugar per 1 liter of water) to attract bees. In extreme heat, pollen may dry out and its properties will be lost.

Moniliosis: why cherries dry out

Moniliosis, or monilial burn, is a dangerous fungal disease of cherries. Almost every cherry tree in the European part of Russia and Western Siberia suffers from moniliosis. Flowers, ovaries, young leaves, shoot tips dry out, branches seem burned - this is how the onset of the disease manifests itself. How to cure cherries from moniliosis?

• Signs of moniliosis
• How does moniliosis develop?
• Why do you need to cut off dry branches from a cherry tree?
• When does moniliosis develop more strongly?
• Which cherry varieties are unstable and which are resistant to moniliosis
• Prevention of moniliosis
• Measures to combat moniliosis and treatment of the disease

Cherries are losing leaves and berries

Monilial burn (gray rot) is a fungal disease that completely affects the entire tree during its flowering period. The fungal spores penetrate the pistil of the flower and grow inside the tree. The wood begins to dry out due to toxins released by the fungus. Moniliosis causes cherries to dry out after flowering, and the berries to rot and fall off. Characteristic features:

• drying of leaves, shoots and branches;
• a small brown spot develops on the fruit, and after 10 days the entire berry is covered with it;
• falling of leaves, flowers, fruits;
• berries that have not fallen from the tree become hard and begin to turn black;
• the brown color of the dried parts of the plant resembles a burn;
• in damp and cold weather, a moldy gray coating is noticeable on the shoots and flowers, producing dust when drying.

The fight against moniliosis begins with cutting off the affected branches. The cut should include 10 cm of a healthy part of the wood, as it may contain fungal spores. The removed parts of the cherry must be burned, and the cut areas must be disinfected. Then sanitary pruning of the crown is carried out to enhance aeration. The cuts must be treated with garden varnish. Immediately after flowering, and also a month later, the cherries are sprayed with copper sulfate (100 g per 10 liters of water) or 1% Bordeaux mixture.

Signs of moniliosis

Moniliosis, or monilial burn, is a common and dangerous disease of cherries, plums, cherries, cherry plums, apricots and other stone fruits. On cherries and many other stone fruits, moniliosis is caused by the fungus Monilia cinerea. The causative agent of the disease overwinters on mummified fruits and infected branches.

Many people mistake the sudden death and drying out of branches with blossoming leaves as the result of winter freezing, burns from pesticides or fertilizers. But in cherries infected with moniliosis, the flowers suddenly wither, turn brown and dry out, then the leaves and young fruit branches wither and dry out, and annual non-lignified shoots become like burnt ones.

It is during flowering that fungal spores fall on the pistil and germinate, affecting the conducting vessels.

The first signs of moniliosis on cherries

Cherry fruit diseases

The following are diseases of cherry fruits that worsen the presentation of the resulting crop. Reduces its shelf life and suitability for transportation.

Septoria cherry blight.

The causative agent is the fungus Septoria pallens Sacc, and has a marsupial stage - Gnomonia egrthrostoma (Pers.) Auersw. The spots on the bark are initially yellowish in color, barely noticeable, later brown and dry out. Multiple small brownish fruiting bodies—pycnidia—are formed in the necrotic tissue. The affected leaves turn brown, become red-brown, dry out and curl, but remain hanging on the tree.

Witch's broom cherry

The causative agent is the fungus Taphrina ceraci (Fckl.) Sadeb. Numerous, densely spaced thin shoots grow on individual branches, resembling brooms or bushes in appearance. The leaves on the shoots are small, chlorotic, with a yellowish tint, fragile, and have wavy edges of the leaf blades. A grayish sporulation coating forms on the underside of the leaves. The fruits of cherries and sweet cherries are severely affected and take on an ugly shape.

The fungus overwinters as mycelium in the bark of branches and spores in the bark and bud scales. In the spring, the spores germinate and infect the budding buds, from which thin, diseased shoots develop. With severe damage to trees, the productivity and frost resistance of trees decreases, since weak shoots and branches do not lignify well.

Control measures. Pruning and burning affected witches' brooms, spraying at the beginning of bud swelling and immediately after flowering with 1% Bordeaux mixture or its substitutes (HOM, Abiga-Peak).

How does moniliosis develop?

Monilial burn can develop in two forms. After a warm winter, in the spring, with the onset of rainy and cool weather during flowering, the symptoms of the disease resemble the effects of frost or fire, which is why this form of the disease is called “monilial burn.” Flowers, leaves, shoots and branches are affected.

The second form is fruit (gray) rot. First of all, fruits become infected through damage resulting from mechanical stress or caused by insects. Small dark spots appear on mature fruits, which quickly grow and cover most of the fruit, and sometimes the entire fruit.

Later, similar sporulation pads form on the affected fruits. They are located in a random order, which distinguishes moniliosis fruit rot from fruit rot, in which sporulation is arranged in concentric circles. Diseased fruits shrink and dry out, mummifying.

Moniliosis rot of cherry fruits

Main cherry diseases: diagnosis and treatment

With proper care, cherries rarely get sick, but the list of possible diseases is quite large.

Moniliosis

This fungal disease occurs in two forms: monilial blight and fruit rot. The first occurs in the spring, when the fungus infects young leaves, tips of young shoots, and flowers. Then the affected parts droop, curl slightly, then turn yellow and black. From the outside they look as if scorched by fire, which is where the second name comes from. If such signs are detected, the affected parts of the plant should be removed and destroyed, and the tree should be treated three times with fungicides (antifungal drugs) at intervals of one week. At this time, you can use Chorus, Abiga-Peak, Strobi, etc.

Fruit rot (another name for moniliosis) affects berries during their ripening period. Such berries begin to rot, then dry out, mummify and continue to hang on the branches until the next season. They should also be collected and destroyed, if possible, and after harvesting, the tree should be treated with fungicides. At this time, Skor, Quadris and others are more effective. During harvesting, only biological preparations can be used. The most popular of them is Fitosporin-M, which can be used without harm to humans even on the day of fruit harvest.

Berries affected by moniliosis begin to rot, then dry out, mummify and continue to hang on the branches until the next season.

Video: processing cherries from moniliosis

Scab

The first signs of this fungal disease can usually be seen in May. At this time, brown or almost black spots with a yellow border appear on the affected leaves. After the formation of ovaries, green berries develop poorly and become wrinkled. On already ripened fruits, depressed spots form, which become rough, hard and then crack. Affected berries take on an ugly shape and sometimes they rot.

In May, brown or almost black spots with a yellow border appear on scab-affected leaves.

Prevention of the disease is described above, and treatment, as in the case of moniliosis, consists of removing the affected parts of the plant and treating with fungicides.

Sooty fungus

If a black soot-like coating appears on the leaves of the cherry tree, this indicates that the plant is infected with sooty fungus. Usually its spores germinate on the sweet and sticky secretions of aphids that cover the leaves of cherry trees during its invasion. These secretions are the most favorable breeding ground for the development of fungus. Initially, the plaque appears in the form of small individual spots, and as the fungus develops, it completely covers the entire surface of the leaves, blocking the access of oxygen to the tissues and stopping the process of photosynthesis. It can also migrate to fruits, which as a result will become unfit for consumption.

When infected with sooty fungus, the plaque first appears in the form of small individual spots

Prevention of sooty fungus is the fight against aphids and ordinary sanitary measures. Treatment in the first stages can be carried out by washing off soot deposits with a stream of water from a hose, followed by treatment with fungicides. In case of severe damage, you will have to remove the affected parts of the plant.

Powdery mildew

A white powdery coating on cherry leaves may appear in dry, hot weather following heavy rains. This is evidence of powdery mildew infection. Young plants, in which leaves and young shoots are affected, are especially affected by the disease, which leads to arrested development and stunted growth. Mature trees tolerate the disease more easily, but with severe damage, their winter hardiness decreases. Control and prevention are similar to the previous ones - removal of affected parts and treatment with fungicides.

White powdery coating on the leaves indicates powdery mildew infection.

Leaf curl

This is a dangerous fungal disease in which young leaves develop unevenly in the spring, as a result of which they curl, become wavy, and become covered with bubble-like swellings. Depending on the specific pathogen, the leaves may become stained and change color. The disease is often accompanied by necrosis of leaves, young shoots and fruits.

When infected with leaf curl, young leaves develop unevenly in the spring, as a result of which they curl, become wavy, and become covered with bubble-like swellings

If such signs are detected, the affected parts of the plant should be immediately removed and treated with fungicides (Abiga-Pik, Strobi, Horus, etc.). Then the treatments are repeated twice more with an interval of one week.

Chlorosis

Chlorosis is a disease in which the activity of photosynthesis and the formation of chlorophyll in the leaves decreases. It can be recognized by premature yellowing of leaves, their falling, shredding, and drying out of the tips of the shoots. The nature of chlorosis can be infectious or non-infectious. In the first case, the disease is caused by viruses or fungi introduced to the plant by pests. This form is incurable and affected plants must be destroyed. But fortunately, it is extremely rare, so we will not consider it in detail.

But the second, non-infectious, form of chlorosis is quite common. It is caused by a deficiency of certain elements, increased soil acidity and waterlogging of the roots. Most often, chlorosis is caused by iron deficiency. In this case, it is enough to feed the cherries with preparations containing iron in chelated form, for example, Ferrovit, Ferrylene, Micro-Fe, Mikom-Reak, Iron Chelate.

You can determine which element deficiency is causing chlorosis by the color of the leaves.

Why do you need to cut off dry branches from a cherry tree?

The pathogen is well preserved in winter in affected twigs and shoots, as well as in dry mummified fruits. In spring, sporulation pads form on them. The spores are spread through the air by raindrops or insects, and infect plants through flowers or damage to the bark. Why does cherry dry? The primary infection occurs through the stigmas of the pistils, then the mycelium penetrates the wood of the branch through the peduncle and partially destroys it. As a result, after about a month, the flow of water completely stops, and the part of the branch above the site of infection dries out. With repeated re-infection, severe weakening of plants and their death occur. If there are dark rings on the cut of a cherry branch, this is a symptom of moniliosis.

Sweet cherries do not bear fruit, reasons, solution to the problem, video

Cherry is a tree that can bear fruit for a hundred years. But in order for cherries to produce large yields, it is necessary to properly care for them.

Choosing a cherry variety

When planting a garden, it is important to choose zoned varieties of cherries. In cold climates, early-ripening varieties will take root better

Cherry flower buds are more sensitive to cold than deciduous ones. During spring frosts, the branches of the tree may not be damaged, but the flower buds will freeze. Therefore, it is better to choose varieties with increased cold resistance.

Correct fit

Often cherries do not bear fruit due to improper planting. The root collar of a fruit tree should not be buried in the ground. It should be kept at soil level, and the graft should be raised 10 cm above ground level. If the root collar is too deep into the soil, the development of the tree is delayed. Cherries will enter the fruiting period later, and the berries will be smaller.

The place for planting cherries should be on the south or southwest side of the site. Most of the daylight hours should be exposed to direct sunlight.

Cherry fruiting period

Cherries begin to bear fruit 4 years after planting. The tree bears fruit every year. Cherries begin to bear fruit in full force only after reaching 10-12 years, depending on the variety. Yellow cherries begin to bear fruit earlier than red or pink varieties. The tree will begin to bear fruit earlier if the seedling was grown in a container. You can speed up the entry of cherries into fruiting if you provide good nutrition to the tree and add mineral fertilizers to the soil every season.

Fertilizer and watering

Sweet cherries do not like stagnation of water. This is a drought-resistant crop, so it is enough to water it only three times per season. 10 liters of water are poured under a 4-year-old cherry tree in one watering. The first time is watered during the blooming of flower buds, the second time after flowering, the third time after harvesting.

In early spring, when there is melting snow, the tree is fed with nitroammophos to increase the ovary. Sweet cherries are particularly susceptible to potassium deficiency, so in early May, before flowering, potassium and magnesium-containing fertilizers are added to the soil. After flowering - potassium fertilizers again, but together with herbal infusion or a solution of organic fertilizers.

In summer, beans, mustard or phacelia can be planted in the tree trunk circle. Then mow it and embed it into the soil.

It is better not to apply nitrogen fertilizers in the autumn, since the cherries will begin to grow intensively, their shoots will not have time to ripen and will freeze out in the winter.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=fe5fbOEw0qg

When does moniliosis develop more strongly?

Moniliosis spreads in the spring (during flowering) by spores carried by wind and insects. In humid weather, ash-gray sporulation pads of the pathogen develop on dead areas. At first they are located separately, then they increase in size and merge. Cracks and gum droplets also appear on infected large skeletal branches.

The disease spreads especially strongly in years with prolonged flowering and high air humidity. For the development of moniliosis, damp weather at a temperature of +15 is favorable. +20 °C or with prolonged rains in spring and summer. The development of the disease is facilitated by the density of plants and location in the lowlands.

In the relatively arid steppe zone, cherries are affected by moniliosis much less frequently, although in certain years that are favorable for the development of the pathogen, the disease also becomes widespread here.

Why are cherries wormy?

After harvesting cherries, you may find that there are small white worms in the fruits. Their length ranges from 1 to 7 mm depending on the stage of development. Worms are the larvae of the cherry fly; they feed on the pulp of the fruits of cherries, cherries, honeysuckle, and apricots.

The cherry fly is 3-5.3 mm long, has a black abdomen, and the front of the head and legs are yellow. The wings are transparent with pronounced stripes, the eyes are green. There are wide yellow stripes on the sides of the chest. From mid-May to July, the fly emerges from the cocoon. Mating occurs at temperatures above +18 °C. Insects are less active in warm and cloudy weather.

The cherry fly lays larvae in green or ripe fruits. The process takes no more than 4 minutes. The female’s lifespan is about a month, during which she lays up to 150 eggs. The larva eats the pulp of the cherry and moves inside the berry to the seed. The development period ranges from 16 to 20 days.

Often the worm leaves the fruit before harvest. As a result, the cherry darkens, rots and falls off. The larva then moves into the soil, where it pupates and survives the winter. In the spring, new flies develop from the pupae, and the cycle repeats again.

Which cherry varieties are unstable and which are resistant to moniliosis

The degree to which cherry trees are affected by moniliosis depends on the variety, the density of the area, and the weather during flowering. Trees that bloom during rainfall are most severely affected. One year these may be early-flowering varieties, another year they may be late-flowering varieties. The most susceptible to moniliosis are ancient varieties of folk selection: Vladimirskaya and Lyubskaya , as well as felt cherry .

Cherry varieties resistant to moniliosis : Anadolskaya, Shpanka Krasnokutskaya.

Prevention

Having spent a lot of effort to get rid of moniliosis, it is important to remember that the moniliosis fungus is a persistent infection. It may return soon if preventative measures are not taken.

What you should know:

1. For planting, choose disease-resistant cherry varieties.
2. The place for shrubs should be open, sunny, and ventilated. Hills and elevations are good.
3. You can’t plant cherries near ponds and springs, moisture will only provoke viruses and fungi.
4. Periodically prune trees, getting rid of dry branches, and collect all mummified fruits. Afterwards, burn the affected branches and fruits, because the fungal spores remaining in them can again lead to bush disease.
5. Feed the plant with fertilizers and microelements. To prevent felt cherry from being damaged by fungal infections, fertilizers must contain manganese, zinc, boron and copper.
6. Be sure to clear the soil around the felt cherry tree and neighboring trees from plant debris, leaves and weeds. Don’t forget to dig up and loosen the soil in the tree trunk circle.

This way you can protect the bush from pests and diseases.

Prevention of moniliosis

removal of cherry branches affected by moniliosis

• Harvest carefully to avoid damaging the fruit. Store only fruits without mechanical damage. At the first signs of disease, damaged fruits should be immediately removed from storage.
• In the fall, collect and destroy all mummified fruits hanging on the tree, rake and burn old leaves, since some of the infectious agents can overwinter on fallen leaves, especially in the southern regions.
• Dig up the trunk circles around the trees after the leaves have completely fallen.
• After the leaves have completely fallen in autumn or spring, immediately after the snow has melted, plants and tree trunks can be treated with 1–3% Bordeaux mixture against overwintered pathogens.
• Destroy moth larvae, weevils, cherry flies and other pests of fruit trees.
• Use biological drugs.

During the growing season, spray cherries with the following preparations:

• Fitosporin-M (20 ml/10 l of water) in the phases: coloring of buds, beginning of flowering, after flowering, formation of ovaries up to 1.5 cm in size, formation of fruits the size of a hazelnut (hazelnut);
• Phytolavin (20 ml/10 l of water) in the phases: bud formation, flowering, ovary formation, fruit formation with a diameter of up to 2 cm, fruit formation with a diameter of up to 4–5 cm.

Read in detail:

What to do, how to save a tree

If the reason for the yellowing of leaves on a cherry tree is drying out of the soil, begin to water the tree regularly. Nutrient deficiencies are compensated by feeding the trees with phosphorus, ash or potassium.

When yellowing and falling occurs due to fungal diseases, the following measures are taken:

• after harvesting, the tree is sprayed with 1% Bordeaux mixture (100 g of copper sulfate, 150 g of quicklime per 10 liters of water);
• affected branches are cut off and burned;
• the sections are treated with a special composition, which is made from lime mortar with the addition of iron (3%) or copper sulfate (1%).

Reference. In case of coccomycosis, it is recommended to treat the tree with “Skorom”. To do this, dilute 1 ampoule per 10 liters of water.

Also, for diseases and pests, chemicals are used , for example, “Horus”, “Kaptan”, “Strobi”, “Gamair”. They are used for treatment and prevention. The products are used in accordance with the instructions on the packaging. If entire shoots are affected due to disease or pests, they are removed and burned. After which the plant is treated with mustard solution (100 g of powder per 10 liters of water). Spraying is carried out in the morning. This remedy strengthens the cherry’s immunity and helps it recover.

If the main problem of yellowing is insect pests, then first they try to remove them by hand, after which the tree is treated. Special tape traps are used, insects are washed off with water from a hose, then the soil is watered with boiling water.

Ant holes are filled with a decoction of wormwood or wild mint, or the tree trunk is smeared with tar. The Anteater remedy is also used. May beetle larvae are dug out from the ground and destroyed. Lupine, which is planted next to cherries, helps to get rid of them. Its roots are poisonous to insects.

To cure a plant from chlorosis, use an integrated approach that improves the condition of the root system:

• water the cherries with soft water from natural reservoirs or rain;
• do not use fresh manure for fertilizing;
• humus with bird droppings is used as nitrogen fertilizers, which is diluted with water 10-12 times;
• for quick help, the tree is sprayed with a solution of iron sulfate (50-70 g per 10 liters of water), the procedure is repeated 3 times after 2 weeks;
• in the autumn, add 150 g of iron sulfate and 10 kg of humus or compost to a depth of 60 cm;
• To improve the oxygen regime in the root system zone, use a solution of potassium permanganate (30-40 g per 10 liters of water), consumption per tree - 10 liters.

To prevent the appearance of chlorosis before the leaves bloom, it is recommended to treat the crown with a solution of iron sulfate (300 g per 10 liters of water).

What to do if the leaves fall

When the leaves from the cherry tree begin to fall, experienced gardeners recommend pruning . To do this, remove dry, diseased and bare branches. Such measures prevent the death of the entire tree. After that, fallen leaves and weeds are collected under the cherry tree. Branches and debris are burned.

To protect the plant from leaf fall next year, it is recommended to apply ammophoska before winter. The product is used to fill the grooves under the plant at the rate of 30 g per 1 square meter. m. The base of the cherry tree is sprinkled with dry ash, which strengthens the plant’s immunity.

After pruning, the soil under the tree is loosened and watered with warm water . Then the weakened plant is fed with complex fertilizers containing iron, nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus, zinc, calcium, copper, boron. For this purpose, products for fruit and berry trees are used: “Gumi-Omi”, “Kemira”, “Magic Leika”.

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Drying of cherries from pests

Not only diseases, but also pests can lead to drying out of the leaves and shoots of stone fruit crops. Let's take a closer look at the main parasites and methods of combating them.

California scale insect

This small insect is difficult to notice against the background of the cherry tree crown. The body length of the scale insect does not exceed 2 millimeters, its protective coloring completely merges with the foliage. Growths on the tree bark in the form of dead scutes appear only after several life cycles of the pest.

The parasite sucks nutrients from the shoots, which leads to cracking and peeling of the bark. To get rid of the pest, you need to mercilessly cut out and burn dead areas, and also treat the tree crown with chemicals.

Bark beetle

The most dangerous is the gypsy bark beetle, which can infect healthy trees. The second type of pest, fruit bog, settles on weakened crops. Well developed strong plants can resist this parasite. The first sign of cherry damage is the presence of passages in dried shoots.

Methods of combating the bark beetle consist of the following simple operations:

• constant care of crops, including watering, fertilizing and pruning plants;
• treating cherries with Bordeaux mixture in early spring;
• pruning and burning of dried shoots.

Pests and their control

Wilting of cherries, deformation of its leaves and berries, decreased yield, yellowing and shedding of leaves are important symptoms that often indicate damage to the crop by insect pests. In some cases, to accurately determine the type of pest, it is enough to carefully examine the most affected parts of the plant (parts of the trunk, the surface of the branches, leaves, the surface and inside of the fruit), using a magnifying glass if necessary. Using this simple tool, you can detect both adult cherry pest insects and their larvae and even egg laying.

Garden aphids are small sucking pests of cherries and many other fruit crops that feed on plant cell juices. Adults on cherry trees can most often be found in early or mid-summer by carefully examining the lower parts of the leaves of affected trees.

The main signs of aphid damage to garden trees are:

• accumulations of colonies of small black insects (less often gray or green) on the underside of leaves, on buds, flowers and ovaries;
• spiral twisting, wrinkling of leaves and their drying out;
• stop in the development and growth of buds, ovaries and developing berries;
• the presence of a large number of ants on (or under) trees.

In most cases, aphids enter an area during the migration of ants, who are attracted by the honeydew it secretes - a sticky substance containing a large amount of sugars. Moving from one territory to another, ants carry aphid colonies with them. For this reason, while fighting aphids, the gardener must simultaneously control the number of ants on the site. You can get rid of them in the following ways:

• remove all anthills from the garden;
• scatter bleach in tree trunks;
• wrap tree trunks with “catching belts”.

To combat aphids, insecticides are used: “Inta-Vir”, “Decis Profi”, “Aktara”, “Biotlin”, “Commander”. They are used strictly observing consumption rates, timing and frequency of treatments of affected cherries. During flowering, drugs are not used so as not to harm bees and other pollinating insects.

Additionally, trees affected by aphids are sprayed with a solution of ammonia (2 tablespoons of ammonia and 1 tablespoon of liquid soap per bucket of water) or a soap-soda solution (2 tablespoons of soda, 1 tablespoon of soap, 1 liter of water ).

The cherry fly is another malicious pest of fruit crops - cherries, cherries, apricots, and barberries. It is a small (4-5 mm) black fly with translucent black and white wings. The pest is most active after cherry blossoms - during this period it lays eggs in the set fruits. Larvae soon emerge from the laid eggs - small white-yellow worms that eat the pulp of the fruit.

To combat the pest, insecticides are used: “Fufanon”, “Inta-Vir”, “Iskra”, “Konfidor”. They are recommended to be used approximately 10 days after the fly leaves the soil (larvae pupate in the ground). Trees should be re-treated after 13-14 days.

Good results are obtained by treating trees with Lepidocide, a biological product with a less aggressive effect. It is recommended to use it during the formation of buds and after cherry blossoms.

The cherry leaf beetle is an aggressive pest that damages the ovaries and leaves of cherries and other fruit crops. It is a small beetle 5-7 mm in size (there are also larger individuals - up to 8-9 mm) black or dark blue in color. The pest is most active in May. To combat the leaf beetle, broad-spectrum insecticides are used - Fufanon, Kemifos. The garden is cultivated during the growing season.

Causes

Drying of cherry leaves and shoots should be an alarm bell for a gardener. When identifying such symptoms, you need to act decisively, determine the cause and take timely measures.

Every gardener should know the rules for planting crops. Sweet cherries love well-lit, sunny, elevated places. In addition, the plant must be protected by a hedge or fence from the influence of cold northern winds. Loamy or sandy loam soil is considered the most favorable for the development of cherries. Despite following all planting rules, even an adult tree can dry out and there are reasons for this:

• influence of diseases;
• pest attacks;
• bad weather.

Note! Drought-resistant varieties of cherries do not tolerate negative temperatures well, while southern stone fruit crops do not tolerate the effects of negative temperatures.

What to do if cherries dry out from the heat

During prolonged drought, intense evaporation of moisture from the upper layers of the soil occurs. In such conditions, the cherries will dry out due to a lack of water in the soil, but periodic abundant watering of the crop with warm water will help correct the situation. To ensure good absorption of moisture by the soil, the gardener must dig up the soil in the root zone near the trunk.

Advice! To retain moisture, the root zone of the plant is covered with mulch made from broken straw or peat.

How to protect cherries from the effects of negative temperatures

A tree that is not prepared before winter can freeze in severe frosts. The influence of negative temperatures leads to the appearance of shrunken buds and damaged shoots on the plant. In some cases, cracks appear on the tree bark, into which pests or dangerous infections subsequently penetrate.

To prevent the crop from freezing, the following actions must be taken:

• apply fertilizer to the roots of the crop in the fall;
• prune disease-affected branches;
• remove dead areas of bark;
• whiten the trunk or coat it with water-based paint.

Young seedlings must be protected with spunbond or other material. The non-woven material is fixed to the frame.

Cherry pests and their control

Aphid on cherry

Sometimes cherry trees are affected by aphids, and cherry seedlings especially suffer from it. Small aphid larvae appearing on leaves and shoots in early spring form entire colonies, and their flying female dispersers spread aphids throughout the garden. How to fight aphids on cherries? At the moment the larvae appear, before the buds open and at an air temperature of at least 5 ºC, cherries are sprayed with nitrafen or oleocuprite, and a little later, but before flowering, they are treated with karbofos, metaphos or phosphamide. During the summer, if necessary, insecticide treatment can be repeated.

Worms in the cherry

How disappointing it can be for a gardener when a long-awaited harvest is hopelessly spoiled - a wormy cherry is not good for anything. Where do the worms in cherries come from? The culprit is the cherry fly - a tiny pest that spends the winter in a cocoon in the top layer of soil, and as soon as it gets warm, the fly flies out and feeds on aphid honeydew and the juice of cherry fruits, laying eggs in them. The fly larvae, which develop over two to three weeks, eat the pulp of the fruit, making passages around the stone, then crawl out of the cherries, fall to the ground and build a cocoon around themselves in anticipation of wintering, and the fruits affected by them rot and crumble.

The cherry fly affects early varieties of cherries much less often than mid- and late-ripening ones. Treatment with insecticides (Iskra, Aktara, Molniya) against cherry flies is carried out twice: the first - when the ground warms up and the air temperature rises above 18 ºC, and the flies begin to fly out of the ground en masse. Focus on the acacia blossoms. Repeat the treatment 10-15 days after the first, but no later than two weeks before the fruit ripens.

Ringed silkworm on a cherry tree

If you notice a cobweb on the branches of a cherry tree, then you are dealing with a ringed silkworm - a beige-colored nocturnal butterfly with a dark stripe on the upper wings, whose dark gray hairy caterpillar, up to 6 cm long, feeds on the buds and leaves of the cherry, weaving web nests in the forks of the branches - that's where the web on the cherry comes from. Caterpillars live in colonies, pupating in folded leaves.

Remove detected ovipositions in cloudy weather manually and burn them; in the spring, before flowering, treat the cherries with karbofos, metafos, chlorophos, zolon or a similar insecticide. Treating the tree before bud break with nitrafen or oleocuprite also gives good results.

Other insect pests

Unfortunately, cherries have many enemies in the insect world. The pests of cherries are almost the same as those of plums and cherries, and this makes it easier for gardeners to fight insects. So, in addition to those pests that we have already told you about, cherries are affected by: brown fruit mite, cherry shoot, fruit striped and fruit moths, cherry, yellow plum and slimy sawflies, cherry and pear pipe rollers, sapwood, western gypsy moth, downy and gypsy moths, red apple mite, leafminer moth, striped moth, subbark leaf roller and apple glass beetle. However, if you maintain a high level of agricultural technology in your garden, monitor the health of the trees and do not neglect preventive work, you may never know what these insects look like.

How to protect cherries from birds

What a shame it can be if the long-awaited cherry harvest, grown with love, goes not to you, but to the birds, mercilessly spoiling the cherry fruits. To prevent this from happening, hang shiny, rustling objects on the trees - foil, New Year's "rain", etc. This should scare away the birds. If they continue to peck at the cherries, cover the trees with a covering material, preferably transparent, and secure it with clothespins or other clamps. After harvesting, the film can be removed. And leave some berries for the birds.

What to do if the cherries do not bud at the right time

First of all, it is important to try to determine the reasons by eliminating all possible options. Then take measures to eliminate them:

1. If planting conditions are violated, the tree is moved to another area or groundwater is drained if the reason is high humidity.
2. They adjust the requirements of agricultural technology - increase or decrease watering, apply fertilizing in accordance with the schedule.
3. If the roots of a young tree are frozen, the leaves do not bloom - the cherry is removed from the soil, and the damaged areas are cut off. They are treated with a disinfectant and placed in a growth-stimulating drug for 12 hours. Then the tree is returned to its place.
4. If branches are damaged by frost, they are cut off and the sections are lubricated with garden varnish.
5. If more than 60% of the bark is damaged, it will not be possible to save the cherry.
6. If damaged by spring frosts, the tree will recover on its own, but will not produce a harvest. Change the variety to a more winter-hardy one.

The same goes for infections. This reason can be easily eliminated; next year the cherry leaves will appear in due time.

Measures to combat moniliosis and treatment of the disease

To curb the spread of moniliosis, it is very important that the treatment of cherries with fungicides is carried out simultaneously not only in yours, but also in all neighboring areas. To cure cherries from moniliosis, it is advisable to choose dry days for treatments.

After spraying, there should be no rain for at least two to three hours so that the preparations have time to be absorbed into the plant tissue, and especially the pistils of the flowers. The current “List of Pesticides and Agrochemicals” recommends the use of several drugs against moniliosis.

Abiga-Pik (40–50 g/10 l of water). Spraying during the growing season.

Bordeaux mixture (100 g copper sulfate + 100 g lime/10 l water). Spraying during the growing season with a 1% working solution.

Bordeaux mixture “Extra” (300–400 g of copper sulfate + 400 g of calcium hydroxide/10 l of water). Early spring “blue” spraying before buds open.

But. Use only in combination with other fungicides. Spraying during the growing season with a 0.014% working solution before and after flowering: with a fruit diameter of 4 cm with an interval of 9–10 days; with a fetal diameter of more than 4 cm – 12–14 days. Before and after treatments with this drug, it is necessary to use fungicides with a different mechanism of action. The total number of treatments with the drug But should not exceed two.

Cupid - spraying during the growing season. Phases: green cone, pink bud, subsequent phases after flowering with an interval of 7–14 days.

Cuproxat. The first spraying is in the phase of blossoming of fruit buds, subsequent sprayings are carried out at intervals of 7–10 days.

Topsin-M. Spraying during the growing season with a 0.1% working solution.

Chorus (2 g/10 l of water). Spraying during the growing season: the first - before flowering, subsequent - at intervals of 7-10 days.

Be careful when using plant protection products. Always read the label and product information before use. Carry out processing in compliance with all safety rules. Remember: you can harvest the crops and consume the products only 20, or even better, 30 days after the last chemical treatment.

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When cherry leaves bloom in spring

Cherries are classified as early fruiting crops. The beginning of sap flow is in the spring – from the moment the snow melts and daytime temperatures rise to above zero. The first stage of the biological cycle is flowering; flowers are formed before the vegetative buds fully bloom, or simultaneously with them. The time depends on the variety and region of growth:

• approximately in the middle zone - from the second half of May;
• in the Leningrad region - two weeks later;
• in the south - in April;
• in Siberia - late May - early June.

Flowering duration is 14 days at a temperature not lower than +10 0, if weather conditions do not meet the biological requirements of the crop, the dates are shifted. This means that vegetative buds should bloom at the end of May or mid-June. Each climate zone has its own timing. At an early stage of the growing season, it is difficult to determine the problem, since the buds on the cherry may appear green in appearance, but may not bloom at the appropriate time.

When there are no leaves on a tree during the period of flower formation, this is a normal phenomenon. If ovaries appear, but the vegetative buds do not begin to grow, something is wrong with the tree. The problem can be determined by the flowering: it is weak, most of the ovaries crumble. Those that remain are unlikely to survive to biological ripeness.

Cherries dry up due to disease

What to do about verticillium

Increasingly, many gardeners are complaining about the drying out of cherries for no apparent reason in early spring. First, small branches begin to dry, then large branches dry out and after 2-3 years the tree dies. The probable cause is verticillium disease.

First of all, young trees up to 7 years old suffer from this disaster. A clear symptom of the disease is rust-colored gum leaking from cracks in the bark. In the worst case scenario, the cherry tree dies in one season.

Older trees cope better with this fungal disease, so it progresses more slowly. Gradually, strips of bark peel off, and abundant smudges of gum are observed. It can take 8 years for the cherries to completely dry out.

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Powerful antifungal agents, which are offered in large quantities in specialized stores, will help cure the plant. The gum must be cleaned off and all cuts treated with garden varnish. Before winter, the affected tree is coated with a solution of lime and copper sulfate.

In order to eliminate the possibility of disease, the planting site should be selected with special care. If groundwater flows close to the surface, drainage is required. Strawberries, melons, nightshades and sunflowers should not be planted next to cherries, as they are also susceptible to verticillium.

Cherry roots should be protected from damage, since the fungus penetrates the tree through the soil. It also doesn’t hurt to spray the plant before flowering and before leaf fall with Bordeaux mixture as a preventative measure.

What to do with moniliosis

Many types of stone fruit crops are susceptible to moliniasis. Cherry is no exception. During the flowering period, fungal spores enter the tree through the pistil of the flower. This is followed by the falling of flowers, and then the drying of shoots and branches. It looks like a consequence of a fire, which is why the disease is also called molinial burn.

Treatment measures:

- cut off diseased branches, taking a small healthy area to get rid of the fungus, and then burn them;

— make sanitary pruning of the crown for better ventilation, after which treat the sections with garden varnish;

- cover all the cracks in the cherry bark with garden varnish;

— after leaf fall, dig deep into the soil around the trunk to destroy the fungal spores remaining in the foliage;

- immediately after flowering and a month after it, treat the tree with Bordeaux mixture or copper sulfate.