Vasilina is one of the most popular tomato varieties in the West Siberian region. It is ideal for growing in these harsh places, it tolerates cold well without losing productivity, and its fruits taste no worse than heat-loving southern varieties.
| Height | Landing location | Ripening time | Fruit color | Fruit size | Origin | Fruit shape |
| Tall | Greenhouse, Open ground | Early ripening | Pink | Average | Variety | Flat-round |
Description and characteristics of the variety
Tomato Vasilina is an indeterminate plant. The growth of the bushes is not limited, they stretch up to one and a half meters, semi-spreading, with an average number of branches, heavily leafy. There is a spot on the stalk. The variety is early ripening, the first fruits reach maturity 95-100 days after sprouting. Tomatoes are soft, juicy, sugary, have a sweet taste with almost no sourness. They are medium in size and weigh 85-200 g. They can be used for canning, fresh consumption, and processing into juices.
Thanks to early ripening, tomato is resistant to a number of diseases, in particular late blight.
How to grow Vasilina tomatoes?
Before planting, seedlings must be subjected to a hardening procedure: change the room temperature, maintain average watering, and protect from strong winds and direct sunlight. Seedlings should be planted in the ground to a depth of 2 cm, maintaining a distance between them. The soil is pre-moistened to an average level. When planting in greenhouses, you need to provide the plant with 16 hours of light per day.
After planting, the plant is looked after, watered promptly with warm water, and the soil is loosened, ensuring oxygen access to the roots. Tomatoes need to be regularly removed from weeds and fed 5-6 times per growing season. Fertilizing is carried out with complex mineral fertilizers, according to the instructions from the manufacturer.
When the height reaches 45-50 cm, the plant is tied up in the usual way. This is necessary in order to increase productivity, eliminate the risk of trunk breakage, and besides, a tied plant is easier to care for.
Bushes need to be pruned once every 10 days. This is necessary in order to control the growth of the bush and the number of its fruits. The more stepsons that are not removed, the fewer tomatoes on the bush. There is no need to remove the shoot to the base of the stem; you can leave 2 cm.
With proper care of the plant, you can get up to 15 kg of tomatoes from one square meter.
tomato Currency - description and characteristics of the variety
V. DADYKIN, scientist agronomist. Photo by the author.
To be honest, I personally didn’t believe it until I visited his (5.5 acres) plot in the Stroitel gardening partnership, on the outskirts of the town of Zhukovsky near Moscow, Ramensky district, Moscow region. I visited and photographed everything. I will reproduce our conversation that took place in the garden almost verbatim.
– Yuri Nikolaevich, let’s not only talk about your technology for growing heat-loving sissies, but also immediately clarify for readers that you grow tomatoes not in the open air, but under glass.
– Yes, although I have an old one, it is still a glass greenhouse, almost 47 m2. This is my “lifesaver”, and there is also a small tomato bed in the open ground (the latter, rather, for comparison, experiments and in case of hot summer). I don’t hide it: in the middle zone, the main condition for success when growing such a heat-loving crop as tomatoes is the construction of a greenhouse.
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For those who are too expensive for glass, the simplest one is suitable, with a frame made of wooden slats and plastic arches, which are covered with film or non-woven material in early spring. The difference between the temperatures inside such a greenhouse and outside is minimal: two to three degrees.
Therefore, in the spring and autumn, gardeners are forced to heat their greenhouses by any means available to them: some with a “potbelly stove” on diesel fuel, and some with an electric stove, heating element, or simply a constantly switched on electric light bulb.
Everyone has the same task: as early as possible, without wasting a single precious spring day, plant tomato seedlings in a greenhouse so that they have time to produce their potential harvest. After all, any, even the most productive varieties of heat-loving crops, as a rule, develop slowly in cool spring and June weather.
By the beginning of August, when many hobbyists are just beginning to bear fruit, they are destroyed by cold and late blight. Tomatoes, in order to have time to fully “give up” the harvest, need not one warm month (with nights at least 15-18 degrees), but four or five. That’s why I plant seedlings in my greenhouse in mid-April.
It is also important that I try to rationally use every meter of space in the greenhouse: in the free rows, between the tomato bushes, I place pots and other containers in which tomatoes also grow. At the end of May, or even at the beginning of June, when the nights become warm, I plant them in open ground.
– What else, besides the greenhouse and early planting dates, determines success?
– Please note: at high (more than 35 o C) and low (12-14 o C) temperatures in combination with high air humidity, tomato flowers are not pollinated and the ovary falls off. Therefore, during the day in July, it is necessary to either regularly ventilate closed greenhouses and greenhouses, or open them completely. I have provided through ventilation for this purpose (doors on two opposite sides and a window on top). In the spring, as well as in July, August, and even more so in September-October, the greenhouse doors should be tightly closed and all cracks sealed.
– Do fertilizers affect the yield and which ones do you use?
– Without effective fertilizers there will be no good harvest. What should it be formed from?
Each fruit plant “takes out” from the soil a total of one and a half dozen macro- and microelements every season. Therefore, they must be returned there in the fall or spring. But, however, with all the “gluttony,” the root system of tomatoes, especially young plants, is unable to effectively absorb nutrition from the soil, especially on cool nights.
For the second season I have been using humus from horse manure with vermicompost “Gardener’s Dream”. It contains a lot of phosphorus and potassium in organic form available to plants, which, as I said, is necessary for tomatoes. I use this organic matter at the stage of growing seedlings, adding 2 kg of it to each bucket of soil mixture.
In addition, when planting plants in a greenhouse, I again add 100-200 g of vermicompost to each hole. The result is similar: the development of tomatoes is noticeably accelerated. The harvest ripens two to three weeks earlier than usual.
– As far as I understand, you, as an amateur, have been growing tomatoes in one place for many years, although this is contrary to generally accepted recommendations: it leads to the accumulation of pathogens in the soil. Scientists recommend returning tomatoes to their original area only after four to five years and planting them only after predecessors such as cucumbers, cabbage, onions, legumes and green crops.
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– Theoretically this is true, but in practice it is impossible to implement such recommendations in a densely planted small area.
I see for myself: when cultivating tomatoes in one place for many years in a row, every year more and more different infections accumulate in the soil, and above all late blight pathogens. What should I do? Every two years we have to do labor-intensive work: completely replace the top ten-centimeter layer of soil in the greenhouse. And this means forced shoveling of tons of earth.
I recently learned about an alternative soil replacement - the FAS sulfur bomb, which can reliably disinfect the top layer of soil from almost any pathogen. I'll definitely try it out in the very near future.
– Now let’s talk about your famous varieties with supposedly incredible yields.
– Over the 25 years of my hobby, I have scrupulously tested and tested more than 500 different varieties and hybrids. Most of them were “rejected” due to low yield. The so-called “folk selection” varieties, which, alas, are almost unheard of now, turned out to be many times tastier and more productive.
Of course, not all of these varieties are truly good. In the first ten years of my research, I exchanged seeds and nutritional recipes with hundreds of distrustful and restless “tomato fans” like myself. In the end, I settled on tomatoes of undeniable merit (both in terms of yield and taste), which showed themselves not only in ideal conditions.
This is, first of all, the Yubileiny Ushakova variety I bred, and also Mechta, Bananchik, Mashenka. All of them are tall, on average up to one and a half meters, and early in maturity. And during a season without climate disasters, they produce an average of 8-10 kg of tomatoes per bush. The fruits are generally not large: Yubileiny Ushakova - 25 g each (about the size of a chicken yolk), Bananchik - 40-50, Mechta - up to 100 g.
Well, now about the most important thing: not only the potential yield of varieties is important, but also that it is realized even in not the most favorable conditions and when dangerous diseases are spreading. Here in the middle zone, the harvest of most varieties is destroyed in addition to the cold by late blight. What can resist it?
Using the example of my large collection of varieties, I undertake to assert: different varieties suffer to varying degrees from this destructive fungal disease. Thus, tomatoes of the Yubileiny Ushakov variety have not turned black for three years now. Of course, it is too early to draw final conclusions and it would be best to draw them together with scientists and variety testing specialists. I invite you to cooperation.
Cultivation Tips
The originator recommends the variety for seedling planting. Healthy seedlings are obtained by following simple rules:
- Plant seeds to a depth of 1–2 centimeters.
- Pre-moistening of universal soil for planting nightshade crops.
- Temperature conditions from 21 degrees.
- Timely watering with water at room temperature.
- A lighting source that organizes a 16-hour sunny day.
IMPORTANT! Hardening off seedlings before planting in open ground ensures better tomato yields. The hybrid variety of Russian selection is not demanding in care
To obtain a decent harvest, it is necessary to follow simple rules of agricultural technology: watering, loosening the soil and removing weeds, feeding with complex mineral fertilizer
The hybrid variety of Russian selection is not demanding in care. To obtain a decent harvest, it is necessary to follow simple rules of agricultural technology: watering, loosening the soil and removing weeds, feeding with complex mineral fertilizer.
Which ones are better?
Few people know about the properties of determinate tomato varieties. "What is it?" – people often ask themselves. Let's find out which variety is better to choose. It all depends on the purpose for which you cultivate tomatoes and how much work you are willing to put into them.
The basic advantage of indeterminate varieties is that their fruiting is extended. They give away the harvest in parts throughout the season. With good care, you can remove a bucket of fruits and even more from each bush. But these tomatoes require strict shaping into one stem, constant gartering and proper elimination of excess leaves and shoots.
Medium-sized determinate varieties begin to bear fruit earlier and yield more consistently. They are tied only once, and then formed into two stems (other stepsons are also removed). They do not create a “jungle” in the greenhouse, they are more compact, and their flower clusters are more likely to form.
Determinate varieties of tomatoes can also produce a harvest of up to a bucket per bush, but only with excellent care. Standard hybrids and varieties will delight you with the first tomatoes in June. They do not require pinching or staking; they grow great in pots: you won’t spend a lot of time and effort on them.
But there is still a minus: these plants will give one tiny harvest, and that will be the end of it. Therefore, before purchasing any variety, think about why and how many tomatoes you need: for canning, for eating in the summer months, or just to pamper yourself.
Agricultural cultivation technology
To grow the crop, Asvon tomato seeds purchased at specialized sales points are used, because in the second generation the hybrid loses its varietal advantages.
Sowing seeds for seedlings is carried out in late February-early March in special containers with moistened soil. The planting is carried out to a depth of 1.5 cm and covered with film until the plants hatch.
Planting material is transferred to greenhouses in early May. For open ground, this process is delayed until the end of the spring frost period. Harvest occurs in July.
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Since the release of tomatoes from the bush occurs simultaneously, it is important to follow the planting rules. To do this, prepare the area and transfer the planting material into prepared holes with compost.
To get a high yield of tomatoes, you need to fertilize with complex fertilizers. Watering is carried out once every 10-14 days, with the drip irrigation method - once a week.
To quickly ripen the crop, it is recommended to mulch the soil using grass, sawdust or black non-woven fiber. Tomatoes require regular feeding; nutrient deficiency negatively affects the yield and taste of tomatoes.
The plant is resistant to diseases, but during a late blight epidemic, it is recommended to treat the bushes with a mixture of slaked lime and copper sulfate. Control of biological pests involves the use of insecticides.
Growing seedlings
When planting a crop, it is important to follow hygiene rules, as there is a possibility of infection reaching the seeds through the growing container. It is preferable to carry out all work when planting seeds with gloves, wash your hands periodically
For this purpose, you can use expanded clay or crushed charcoal. For planting, take a specially prepared soil mixture. You can simplify the process using a substrate, which is sold in stores.
The soil is lightly compacted, watered with warm water, holes are made 1 cm deep. The seeds are laid out at a distance of 3 cm from each other. The sowing is covered with a layer of dry soil, and the container is placed in a warm place.
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To ensure the smooth emergence of seedlings, it is important to maintain the optimal air temperature at +28...+30 °C. Compliance with the temperature regime is required to accelerate the emergence of sprouts
Otherwise, the seeds will rot or the germination period will increase.
After the first shoots appear, lower the air temperature to +15...+18 °C during the day and +10...+12 °C at night. After 7 days, the air temperature is increased to +20...+25 °C during the day and +12...+15 °C at night.
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