Berry with Siberian health: growing watermelon in Siberia

Growing conditions

It is guaranteed that watermelons can only be grown in such conditions using seedlings, although some gardeners plant seed immediately in open beds. Under abnormal weather conditions, when the temperature can drop sharply in the middle of summer, using the latter method is impractical.

It is important to choose the right time for sowing seeds for seedlings: so that they do not have time to outgrow, and at the same time the ovary can form.

On a note! To grow an early ripening watermelon, you need to choose seeds that can be stored for no more than 2 years.

Successful cultivation of berries depends significantly on both daylight hours and temperature. Watermelon needs lighting at least 10 hours a day. There are also special conditions for heat. The daily temperature during the formation of the ovary must be around +19C, and the temperature at night must be at least +14C. Intensive growth of seedlings is possible only on sufficiently warm soil (from +13 degrees).

Another feature is the organization of so-called “warm” beds. They are prepared at the end of autumn. The soil on the site is dug up half a meter. The main part of the trench is filled with plant debris, peat, humus, and laid on top with a composition of sand, manure and turf soil so that the soil rises 25 cm above the main level. In this bed, even with constant rainfall, the melons will not get wet.

Diseases and pests

Watermelons grown in Siberia are also vulnerable to diseases and pests. The most dangerous enemies of melons and melons:

• Powdery mildew. Symptoms: the appearance of white spots on the foliage and stems, leading to the death of the plant. If the disease is not dealt with, the problem will spread to the berries. Fighting powdery mildew: treating plants with colloidal sulfur or Topaz, Bayleton, Planriz products.
• Anthracnose. The disease appears due to high humidity in the greenhouse. Symptoms: yellow-brown or pink spots form. Fighting anthracnose: treatment with Bordeaux mixture or chemicals.
• Spider mite. Symptoms: the plant withers and curls, pests feed on watermelon juice. Pest control: folk infusions, for example, with tobacco and laundry soap, help.

The best varieties of watermelons for Siberia

The most common varieties of watermelons that are suitable for planting in cold climate regions are:

1. Kai F1 is a fairly common type of watermelon for northern latitudes. Ripens in 2.4 months. The pulp has a raspberry tint. There are few seeds, the peel is thin.
2. Chill is a mid-season species. Approximately 90 days pass from the appearance of sprouts to the ripening of the crop. The lashes are strong, about 4 m in size. The variety is characterized by high resistance to diseases. Suitable for planting in greenhouses and open ground. The berries grow weighing up to 7 kg and have a round, slightly elongated shape. The pulp is juicy and has a reddish-pink color.
3. Sugar Baby watermelon is not such a common variety. It has large berries that reach a weight of 14 kg. Productivity per 1 m2 – up to 5.8 kg.
4. Siberian lights - ripening time 2.6-3 months. The small berries have sweet flesh, bright green and thin skin. The variety is often planted using the seedless method. Used in open beds and greenhouses.
5. Watermelon Ogonyok is a fairly popular variety that is not picky in care. The berries grow weighing 3 kg, but the variety still produces a bountiful harvest.

For open soil

Many varieties have been bred for northern regions with short and cold summers. At the same time, many are not inferior in taste and weight to those watermelons that are grown in the southern regions:

1. Crimson Sweet - fully ripens within 70 days. The berries weigh about 12-14 kg. The variety is planted in open ground in Siberia, but requires shelter for a short time. The skin is thin, the flesh is sweet with a raspberry tint.
2. Photon is an early ripening variety. Has high resistance to anthracnose. Ripens within 2.6-3 months. The approximate weight of the fruit is 5.8 kg. The flesh is deep pink with black seeds.

For the greenhouse

For greenhouse conditions, it is best to choose early-ripening hybrid varieties, tested in northern regions with insufficient lighting:

1. Ultra early - grows in approximately 2.6 months. The weight of the berry is 3-5 kg. The pulp is juicy and has a sweet taste. Watermelon is grown only in a greenhouse.
2. Eureka F1 - watermelon is unpretentious in care, it was bred by breeders from America. Eureka F1 is resistant to sudden temperature changes, but it is recommended to plant the variety in a greenhouse. It also has high disease resistance. The berries grow weighing about 13-16 kg. The variety matures completely in approximately 60 days.

Which type of watermelon to choose for a cool region (not the South)

As you know, watermelons require a lot of light and heat for normal growth, so getting a decent harvest in the middle zone (Moscow region), in Siberia and the Urals is not so easy, especially if the summer is cold and cloudy...

Accordingly, the variety must be suitable for your growing conditions, namely:

• early ripening or at least early ripening (from full germination to the first harvest of fruits 70-80 days, maximum 85 days).

Mid-season (from 90 days) and even more so late (100 days) you simply won’t have time to ripen.

• hardy to unfavorable conditions (cold-resistant, drought-resistant) and resistant to diseases.

Growing seedlings

Before growing watermelons in Siberian conditions in open ground, you will first need to germinate strong and healthy planting material.

When and how to plant seedlings

Seedlings are transplanted to open ground in early July. Taking into account the fact that its age at the time of planting must be at least a month, sowing is carried out in May. If the seedlings are planted in greenhouses, they can be sown 10 days earlier.

The soil for planting seedlings must be nutritious. To prepare it, you need to mix part sand, two parts turf and manure, 3 tbsp each. saltpeter and dolomite flour, 1 tbsp. superphosphate.

The best container for seedlings is peat pots. The seedlings along with the pots are transplanted into the ground, so the roots are not injured.

In a pot with a diameter of about 10-12 cm, place 2 seeds “sideways”. This way the leaves sprout faster from the cotyledons. Using a spoon, dig holes about 4 cm, water them with water (100 ml) and add fertile soil mixture. The container is covered with film until shoots appear.

Seedling care

The temperature for seedlings during the day should be at least 24C, at night - at least 14C. After 7-10 days, seedlings appear; to prevent them from stretching out, the temperature must be reduced to 19C. At the same time, the roots require heat, so the container must be placed above the radiator.

After 5 days the first true leaf will appear. When 3 true leaves appear, the seedlings need to be fed with complex fertilizer. After 10 days, the bait is repeated.

Watering should be light; seedlings should be watered twice a week. 2-3 days before transplanting, water the plants daily.

In Siberia, growing seedlings sometimes requires additional lighting. In order for the sprouts to receive the required daily rate of 10,000 lux, they are illuminated with fluorescent lamps for 8 hours daily.

Transplanting seedlings into the ground

Watermelons are grown in open ground in Siberia in early July, when there is no threat of late frosts. The seedlings are transplanted into a prepared warm bed. 2-3 days before transplanting, you need to harden the seedlings. First, they are transferred to a cooler place for half an hour and the time at a lower temperature is increased daily.

The holes on the ridge must be prepared in advance, immediately after planting the seeds. While the seedlings grow, the earth warms up to the required temperature. The holes are made in increments of at least 0.9-1.3 m, row spacing should be about 1.6 m.

The holes should be several centimeters larger than the height of the pots. To fill the holes, you need to prepare a soil mixture of 2 parts manure, 1 part sand and ash. Then the bed is mulched with polyethylene. This preserves moisture longer and reduces temperature changes as a result of heat release. At the same time, the seedlings are additionally protected from weeds, and the fruits ripen 10 days earlier.

On the holes you need to make cross-shaped slits according to the size of the pot. Carefully remove the soil, water it thoroughly, place the pot with the bush so that it is level with the ground, and fill it with the extracted soil.

Features of growing watermelons in Siberia

Experienced farmers recommend paying special attention to agrotechnical rules when growing watermelons in Siberia . It is important to provide the plant with balanced nutrition, proper watering, and timely loosening.

The melon crop is planted in seedlings. This strengthens the plant’s immunity and helps watermelons adapt to climatic conditions more quickly. The plant must be immune to sudden changes in weather, prolonged fog and rain.

The planting procedure and pattern play an important role. Before sowing, be sure to disinfect the seeds and beds, and maintain the distance between the bushes.

Planting seeds

Planting and caring for watermelons is greatly facilitated if you plant melons on a flat area. Moreover, groundwater must be located at a distance of approximately 1.6-2.2 m. The most illuminated places are selected.

Into open ground

Seeds are prepared as for planting seedlings. They are washed, dipped in a growth activator, wrapped in cloth and kept warm until they germinate. Watermelon seeds should always be slightly moist. Germination takes about 10 days.

There are different sowing methods; they are selected taking into account the characteristics of a particular variety. Compact varieties can be planted in holes with a spacing of 50 cm and a row spacing of 100 cm. Moderately climbing plants require a little more space - 0.9x1.3 m, long-climbing plants - 1.2x1.6 m.

At the end of May, the seeds are planted in previously prepared holes. Afterwards they are watered and covered with prepared nutrient soil. The beds are mulched and a shelter is built.

The first feeding is done with a non-concentrated solution of manure (in a ratio of 1:15) after the appearance of 3 true leaves. In the future, it is enough to fertilize twice a month with a tincture of weeds. Plants need to be watered 2 times every 10-14 days.

To the greenhouse

Planting time will depend on the temperature in the greenhouse. In polycarbonate greenhouses, the air warms up to the required temperature 8-12 days earlier, unlike film ones. Most often this is done at the end of May.

Preparation and planting techniques do not differ from planting in open ground. But in greenhouses, watermelons do not take up so much space, since they are grown on trellises. Typically, compact planting is used with a spacing of 50 cm and a row spacing of 70 cm.

When planting seeds, you need to choose only early ripening varieties. This way you can avoid the negative impact of unexpected frosts. The crops are covered with cardboard boxes or plastic eggplants.

How to grow a good harvest of watermelons

It’s not enough to choose a variety, you need to provide it with proper care:

1. Landing . Of course, Siberian conditions require a seedling growing method. First, the approximate time for landing on the street is determined. Taking into account the landing site (open or protected ground). At this point, the seedlings should be about 25 days old. Plus a few days for the seeds to hatch. The seeds should be treated first in hot water (60 degrees), then in a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate. Half an hour for each treatment. Plant in separate containers with light nutrient soil.
2. Transplant . Grown plants are transferred to a permanent place. For open ground, warm beds, either manure or with grass laid under the ground, are well suited. The main condition at this moment is protection from possible cold snaps. The soil must be nutritious. For this purpose, adding high-quality humus is suitable. In addition, it is quite loose (you can add sand or peat).
3. Care . To preserve heat and moisture, you need to mulch the surface in an accessible way. After 7–10 days, the first nitrogen fertilizing is done with an infusion of mullein, bird droppings, or ready-made fertilizer with nitrogen. Watering should be plentiful, but not frequent. The main thing is to prevent the soil from drying out. During the period of fruit filling, the frequency of watering increases, and when ripe it almost stops. The second and subsequent feedings should consist of fertilizers with microelements. Every 14 days. A substrate should be placed under the resulting fruits to avoid rot.
4. Pollination . If there are few insects, and at the initial stage, you will have to pollinate the plants yourself. To do this, pick the male flower and lightly rub the female one with it.
5. Plant formation . In order to get a good harvest, you need to control the number of shoots and ovaries. For small-fruited varieties, 5 pieces per shoot are enough. For large-fruited plants 2 pieces. A large number of shoots can lead to watermelons not ripening.
6. Harvesting . Stop watering 3-4 weeks before the expected harvest. Otherwise, the fruits will be watery and unsweetened. If it rains, you should take care of shelter.

Signs of ripeness:

• Drying lash near the fruit;
• The yellow spot together on which the watermelon lay;
• A loud knock;
• The ripening period of the variety has come to an end (from late July to mid-August).

Plant care

To get a good harvest, you will need to constantly monitor the melon crop. Caring for Siberian watermelons differs depending on where they are grown.

In the open ground

Watermelons with mulched soil need to be watered twice a month. Simultaneously with watering, you can feed the plants with mullein (diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10).

Be sure to pinch watermelons. Usually they leave 2 lashes and remove all the stepsons. This must be done every week, regularly monitoring the formation of watermelon shoots. You need to leave up to 3 flowers on the main stem so that the berries do not grow very large and have time to ripen.

When the ovaries are 6-7 cm in diameter, the top of the shoot is pinched off, leaving up to 4 leaves near the top. Future berries are placed on boards so that they do not come into contact with wet soil and rot.

The row spacing should be periodically loosened and weeds carefully removed so as not to break the roots of the plant. At the last stage of the growing season, loosening is completed, and they try not to trample the soil around the bushes.

In mid-summer, they are fed with phosphorus fertilizer. Watering is completed 10 days before harvest.

Bricks are placed under the ripening berries, which accumulate heat during the day and release it at night, compensating for the temperature difference. The fruits are periodically turned over to ensure that each side receives enough sunlight.

In the greenhouse

In summer, the air in the greenhouse should not be allowed to heat up too much (more than + 29C), so the greenhouse should be ventilated periodically. Watering is carried out only with warm water, avoiding it getting on the leaves.

Until female flowers form on the bushes, you need to water them up to 4 times a week. Pollination is done manually. To ensure that the berries ripen well, after pollination they are watered three times a week, combining this with bait. When the lashes reach a height of 2 m, the plant is formed by pinching the top of the bush.

Planting and further care

Planting watermelon seedlings in a permanent place in open ground is carried out from mid-May to June, when the soil has warmed up to +15...+17°C. The place and soil for planting must be prepared in the fall. The area where the seedlings will be planted must be warm, located on a hill, have good lighting, and be free from drafts.

To obtain a rich harvest, you must follow the rules of crop rotation. It is best to plant watermelon in a garden bed where wheat, legumes, cabbage, onions and garlic were previously grown. It is not recommended to plant in an area where potatoes, tomatoes, peppers, eggplants and pumpkin family crops previously grew.

Important! The soil for planting should be loose, well permeable to air and water. If the soil is clayey, you need to add sand to it during the digging period.

After harvesting, it is necessary to dig up the selected area, fertilizing it with humus and mineral fertilizers, for example, superphosphate (30 g/1 m²) and potassium sulfate (40 g/1 m²). 14 days before planting, you can begin preparing the holes.

To do this you need:

1. Dig holes in an area measuring 30x30 cm, the distance between them should be about 1.5 m.
2. Place a small layer of straw in each hole and sprinkle soil on top. This is necessary to release additional heat, which will have a positive effect on the plant.

Before planting, you need to water each hole, spending at least 2 liters per hole. Then you need to place the plant in the hole along with a lump of earth.

Watermelon planting diagram.

If the plant is planted in a peat cup, then the seedling is placed in the hole along with it and sprinkled with soil on top. Next you need to compact the soil and water it.

Further care for watermelon consists of:

• watering;
• loosening;
• applying fertilizers.

Plants need to be watered once every 7 days with warm water at the roots. Watering is stopped during the period of fruit ripening, as this will lead to cracking of the berries, reducing their shelf life, as well as the level of sugar content. Loosening is carried out on the second day after each watering. The loosening depth should be 6 cm.

Read more about how to properly plant a watermelon at home.

The first application of fertilizer is carried out 7 days after planting; for this, ammonium nitrate and urea are used. The second feeding is carried out 7 days after the first. Fertilize the plant with 10 g of yeast, diluted in 1 liter of water, with the addition of 80 g of sugar.

This mixture must be fermented and watered over the plant. The third time, fertilizers are applied during fruit set. As a top dressing, use 200 g of wood ash diluted in 10 liters of water. The addition of minerals is stopped during the period of fruit ripening.

Diseases

Bushes in open ground suffer the most from the harsh climate, since high humidity is ideal conditions for the emergence of many diseases.

Anthracnose

The development of this disease can be easily determined by the leaves, which become covered with yellow dots, darken and dry out over time. An ovary infected with a fungus stops growing. The pathogen infects new bushes, spreading with the wind or as a result of improper watering.

In this case, you need to regulate watering, organize periodic ventilation, control the density of plantings, inspect the leaves and get rid of infected plants. If anthracnose is detected, the melon is sprinkled with sulfur.

Fusarium

The pathogen is usually found in seeds and soil. The roots and base of the plant are the first to suffer. The disease then spreads to the entire bush.

As a result of the accumulation of toxins, plant development is inhibited. Typically, Fusarium infection occurs when the soil moisture is high.

Infection can be prevented if you properly care for the seedlings: treat seed material, regulate crop rotation, and provide timely feeding. Infected plants are destroyed and the remaining bushes are fed with potassium-phosphorus fertilizer.

Powdery mildew

The disease is expressed by the formation of whitish plaques on the leaves. The foliage dries out, curls, and in the fall, instead of powdery deposits, black spots form.

Having identified the disease, the plantings are watered with a sulfur solution (100g/20l).

Recommended varieties

The growing season should be short. It is preferable if the weight of the watermelon does not exceed five kilograms. There is a list of zoned varieties intended for planting on open ridges.

Ogonyok

The ripening time of the Ogonyok variety is from 70 to 82 days. A small spherical berry, weighing two kilograms. Black-green color of the fruit, the pattern is blurred. Red color of the pulp.

Sibiryak-97

The duration of harvest ripening ranges from 76 to 83 days. The fruit weighs four and a half kilograms. The shape is round. Dark green color, stripes are barely noticeable. Sweet pulp, bright in color. The watermelon variety is characterized by resistance to temperature changes.

Honey couch potato

An early hybrid variety of watermelon. The time interval from the emergence of seedlings to ripening is from eighty to ninety days. The honey couch potato is ideal for open ground in the cold Siberian region. The lashes are long and highly branched. The red pulp of the variety has a very sweet taste. One bush produces up to fifteen kilograms of harvest. Watermelons can be grown for long-term storage.

Photon

A very productive variety. Grows and ripens quickly. It has pronounced resistance to many diseases. The crop can be grown for transport over long distances. The berries are oblong in shape and large in size. The shade of the fruit pulp is bright pink. Juicy consistency. Pronounced dark stripes on the green peel. The minimum weight of a watermelon of the Photon variety is four kilograms.

Northern lights

The duration of the fruit ripening period is from 67 to 74 days. The spherical berry weighs just over two kilograms. Dark green peel color. Scarlet sugary pulp.

Ultra early

The harvest ripens on the eightieth day. The weight of the fetus is about five kilograms. The shape of a watermelon is spherical. The structure of the scarlet pulp is granular. The variety is very sugary and frost-resistant. Branching is moderate.

Siberian lights

The harvest can be harvested on the 75th day. The fruit weighs three kilograms and is spherical in shape. The dark peel has light green longitudinal stripes. The flesh is bright in color and juicy. Weak branching. The berries have an attractive presentation. Watermelons can be grown for sale.

Pests

As a rule, watermelons are infested by aphids and wireworms.

Wireworms

Small yellowish-brown worms are beetle larvae that gnaw at the roots. They are in the ground, under a withering plant. Bugs usually settle in perennial weeds. Thus, by getting rid of weeds, pest infestation is prevented.

On a note! For prevention, you can also scatter walnut leaves in the garden; many pests cannot tolerate this smell.

melon aphid

Aphids suck sap and are carriers of diseases. The pest can be identified by curled leaves. If you do not get rid of aphids, they produce more than a dozen generations during the growing season. The most important thing is to detect the first invasion in time; in this case, the aphids are simply washed off with water.

The beds are periodically weeded, the bushes are sprinkled with ash, and treated with garlic tincture. Insecticides are not often used in Siberia, since the cool climate prevents the proliferation of aphids.

Middle and late varieties of watermelons (for the South)

You all know them very well and, most likely, bought them at the market - these are Kholodok and Astrakhan .

Slightly less famous are:

• Icarus.
• Bedouin F1.
• Melania F1.
• Photon.
• Tamerlan F1.

Of course, you can try to grow these mid- and late-ripening varieties in central Russia, but the result is unlikely to please you (if only in a greenhouse).

Have you, dear summer residents, tried to plant watermelons in the middle zone (Moscow region), in the Urals and in Siberia? How's the harvest? Taste?

Questions and answers

Why do watermelons not grow sweet enough?

One of the main reasons is unfavorable climate and poor lighting. Photosynthesis can only proceed successfully if there is sufficient sunlight. If the summer is cloudy or the area is shaded, sugar practically does not accumulate in the fruits.

Why mulch the soil?

Mulching prevents the appearance of weeds, retains moisture in the soil, and also eliminates the need for regular loosening.

How long do the fruits of the Siberian Lights variety last?

The shelf life of watermelons in a dark, dry place is 3 weeks.

How to form a bush?

Two lashes should be left on the plant, and the main stem should have at least three inflorescences. After the ovaries reach a diameter of 5 cm, the upper part of the shoot is removed.

When can you harvest?

Harvest usually occurs at the end of August or beginning of September.

Photon

Photon is a mid-early variety whose ripening lasts from 80 to 100 days. In addition, this variety has many advantages over other, earlier varieties. Among the advantages of Photon are its undemandingness to soils, resistance to many diseases and attractive color. The rind of the fruit is alternating bright green and light green stripes, and the flesh under the rind is tender and juicy, with a moderate amount of seeds. One watermelon can weigh 3–6 kg.

Ultra early

This watermelon is an even earlier ripening variety than Kholodok, because its growing season is only 80 days. In the south, Ultra Early can be grown directly in open ground, but in the north it is better to do this in a greenhouse, especially since it is perfect for this. Under cover, the sprout forms only one stem, which makes plants of this species more compact.

The fruits are spherical, dark green, with thin sparse stripes over the entire surface. The pulp of the fruit is very sugary, tender, scarlet in color, and the number of grains is average. The weight of Ultra Early fruits ranges from 4–6 kg.

Conditions for good growth

Watermelon "Siberian Lights" does not tolerate overly moist soil, so watering should be done infrequently.

One and a half months before the fruits ripen, irrigation stops completely. During this period, you can apply potassium-phosphorus fertilizer.

With the appearance of the ovaries, it is necessary to begin the formation of the bush. In order to get uniformly ripening fruits of good size, only three shoots should be left on one plant.

Fertilizer

Plants can be fed 3 times per season: a couple of weeks after planting, at the time of flowering and during the formation of ovaries. Herbal infusions, ash, mullein or bird droppings and other substances are used as fertilizers.

First feeding, 14 days after planting:

• Herbs (nettle, burdock, chamomile, dandelion leaves) - 3.5 kg;
• Water - 10 l.

Pour the grass with water and leave it in a warm place for 10 days, that is, it is prepared within four days after planting.

The resulting infusion must be diluted with water in a ratio of 1 to 9. Water each plant with three liters of the mixture.

Second feeding, during the flowering period:

• superphosphate - 6 g;
• potassium chloride - 4 g;
• ammonium nitrate - 4g.

Before adding these fertilizers to the soil, it is necessary to water each bush well. If you consider that during the flowering period, watering should be frequent and abundant, then you can fertilize after any watering, so as not to intentionally flood the plants.

But before watering, not all of the required volume of liquid is poured under the bush, but only half of it. Then the fertilizers are applied in dry form, and only then the beds are irrigated again with the remaining water.

The third feeding is the formation of ovaries:

• boric acid - 5 g;
• water - 5 l.

The acid is dissolved in water, after which the solution is used to spray the plant. This mixture is necessary for the sweetness of the fruit.

After 2 weeks, the procedure must be repeated again.

Watering and humidity

The “Siberian Lights” variety should not be watered more than once a week, and the volume of water per hole should be 7 liters. Watermelons are watered strictly at the root in the morning or evening (after sunset). A month before the fruits ripen, irrigation stops.

For normal growth and productive development of the plant, air humidity is required in the range of 45-60%. The topsoil layer should be moistened by 75%.

Thanks to its powerful root system, the plant is able to absorb moisture from the deepest layers of soil even at a minimum humidity level of 6%. However, such a mark is not considered normal, and lack of moisture over a long period of time can have a negative impact.

Temperature

Story

The “Siberian Lights” watermelon was bred by breeders of the West Siberian Experimental Vegetable Station under the leadership of Doctor of Agricultural Sciences Vasily Grigorievich Vysochin.

The variety was developed specifically for cultivation in Siberia and other regions with identical weather conditions.

In 2000, an application for permission to grow was registered, and three years later the variety was included in the register of those approved for cultivation in the West Siberian and East Siberian regions.