How to grow a watermelon at home from a seed: step-by-step instructions

Author: Elena N. https://floristics.info/ru/index.php?option=com_contact&view=contact&id=19 Category: Garden plants Published: February 24, 2016Last edits: January 06, 2021

plant (lat. Citrullus lanatus) is a herbaceous annual, a species of the Watermelon genus of the Cucurbitaceae family. Watermelon is a melon crop. The homeland of watermelon is southern Africa - Botswana, Lesotho, Namibia, South Africa. The colocynth species, related to the watermelon, is still found here and is considered the ancestor of the cultivated watermelon. This crop was cultivated in Ancient Egypt, in the 20th century BC: watermelon seeds were discovered in the tomb of Tutankhamun. Evidence that watermelon was known to the ancient Romans, who ate it fresh and salted and also made honey from it, can be found in the poems of Virgil. The watermelon fruit was also grown in China, where it was called the “melon of the West,” and by the Arabs, who consumed it before meals to cleanse the body. The crusaders brought watermelon to Europe, and on the territory of modern Russia it appeared in the 13th-14th centuries AD. Today, the champion in growing watermelons is China, followed closely by Turkey, Iran, Egypt, the American states, as well as Uzbekistan and Russia. Watermelons grow best in climates with long, hot, dry summers and short, cool winters.

Is it possible to grow watermelons at home from seeds?

Increasingly, garden and field crops are taking root on apartment windowsills. Usually peppers, cucumbers and tomatoes are planted in pots, and such an exotic fruit as watermelon is chosen only by the most daring plant growers. But caring for this berry is not as difficult as it seems, and the taste of the homemade fruit is not inferior to melon specimens.

How to grow a square watermelon

Square or cubic watermelons have only one advantage - they are easier to store and transport. To grow such watermelons you will need cubic plastic containers with a diagonal larger than the expected diameter of the watermelon and many ventilation holes.

Watermelons that have grown to the size of an apple are placed in such containers. Care for the fruits as usual, adjusting the frequency and amount of watering as necessary.

Reference. To reuse containers, they must be collapsible and have a hole 3-4 cm in diameter in one of the faces for escape with the fruit.

What varieties are suitable for this?

Watermelon is a crop that is sensitive to heat and light. It is easy to maintain a high temperature in a heated apartment, but providing the plant with enough light in autumn and winter is problematic. Therefore, give preference to varieties that bear fruit in short daylight conditions. The timing of ripening is also important. It is better to plant early varieties at home; in this case, the harvest will be harvested within three months.

The following varieties of watermelons are grown on a windowsill or covered loggia:

• Gift to the sun;
• Volgar;
• Rose of the Southeast;
• Ogonyok;
• Stokes;
• Siberian.

When to plant watermelon seeds for seedlings: timing

Seedlings of watermelon seeds
It is important to understand that you can plant watermelon seeds or seedlings only in already warmed soil. That is, if weather forecasters still promise frosts and warm weather is unstable, then planting cannot be done. The fact is that seeds can germinate normally only at temperatures above 16 degrees Celsius. In addition, fruit ripening lasts 1.5-2 months. Accordingly, it is important to plant around the end of May-beginning of June.

At the same time, planting dates for all regions differ due to climate conditions. In particular, in central Russia, seedlings can be moved into the ground around the end of May. It takes about a month to grow, so sowing is done in mid to late April. If ultra-early varieties were taken for planting, then already at the end of May or beginning of June they can be moved into the ground.

• In the Moscow region, sowing in open ground is allowed from mid-May. If you plan to plant seedlings first, then this is done from mid-April. But ready-made sprouts reach the soil in the first ten days of June, and for seedlings - in the 3rd-4th ten days of April. The last batch is planted in the ground at the end of May.
• In the northern regions, watermelons are planted in greenhouses and greenhouses. Early varieties can be sown as seedlings in early May, and moved into the ground in the first ten days of June.
• In the south, early and late varieties are sown immediately in the ground. This is done in the 3rd or 4th decade of April.

Necessary conditions for growing watermelon at home

If you do not provide the melon crop with a comfortable climate and care, you may not expect fruit. Growing watermelons indoors has its own characteristics that are important to consider.

Place

The watermelon will feel best on the southern windows, but the northern side is not at all suitable for it. In rooms facing east or west, it will also be possible to grow this exotic crop.

Watermelon does not like cold and drafts. You can place it on the windowsill, under which there is a central heating radiator.

Attention ! If you plan to plant a crop on the balcony, it is important to create additional heating.

Tara

Watermelon seedlings are grown in plastic cups, small pots or special cassettes. A stronger sprout will need a larger container. A bucket, basin or other container with a volume of at least 10 liters will do. You can independently put together a box 50*50*30 cm from wooden boards.

It is not advisable to plant seeds immediately in large containers, because water often stagnates in a large lump of earth, and the plants may die. If you don’t want to bother with seedling cassettes, watering will have to be carefully controlled.

The soil

Loose, nutritious soil is prepared in advance. It is made from equal parts of humus, turf and sand, with a little ash added. Before planting, the soil is disinfected by scalding it with boiled water.

Light and temperature

The plant needs a 12-hour daylight hours, so during cloudy periods it will require additional lighting sources: LED, fluorescent or phytolamps.

Important! During the period of ovary formation, the plant should not be overcooled. The optimal temperature regime, which must be regularly monitored, is +25...+30°C during the day and +18°C at night.

Soil and seed preparation

Preparation of seeds consists of selecting them and growing sprouts. The largest and most uniform seeds are selected. In order to kill all harmful bacteria, the seeds are immersed in a solution of potassium permanganate for half an hour. The ratio is 1 to 1000 (the color of such a solution should be purple).

After the seeds have been in the solution for 30 minutes, they must be washed with plenty of running water. The seeds should be sown in a prepared container, 3 seeds per hole. In the future, only one of the strongest cuttings remains.

The soil at home should be rich in wood, humus and ash, and also fertilized with nitrogen fertilizer.

Watermelon seedlings

Seed preparation consists of their selection, disinfection, and germination.

Landing

Seeds with hatched sprouts are planted in plastic cups filled with lightly compacted earth - 4-5 pieces each. in each. Make sure that the soil always remains moist and the air temperature is about +25°C. If these conditions are met, shoots will appear in 7 days.

After 2-3 weeks, when the seedlings have grown a little, it is necessary to pull out some of the sprouts, leaving one of the strongest seedlings in each container. After a month, the plants are moved to a permanent place along with a lump of earth.

Sowing seeds directly into the ground

Sowing seeds directly into open ground is permissible only in the southern regions, characterized by a warm and mild climate.

As a rule, sowing is carried out at the end of May, but it is necessary to focus on weather conditions and air temperature ( not lower than +12+14°C ) and soil - it should warm up to a depth of 10 cm to +12+14°C.

Site selection and soil preparation

To plant watermelons, choose a well-lit place, protected from gusty winds, located on a plain or hill - watermelons tolerate drought well, and excessive soil moisture can lead to rotting of the root system.

Melon crops prefer light, loose, fertile soil with good aeration and moisture permeability; the best option is virgin sandy loam chernozem with a neutral acidity level; sandstones or sandstones pre-enriched with humus are also suitable.

In the fall, the selected area is dug up and fertilized with rotted manure; in the spring (March-April), the ground is harrowed, loosened, and for every 1 sq. m. m of area, 20 g of potassium fertilizers and 30 g of urea and superphosphate are applied.

Good predecessors and neighbors

Watermelon is not planted after melons, squash or zucchini; winter wheat, perennial herbs, radishes, dill, basil, tomatoes, celery, root vegetables, onions and cabbage are good predecessors.

Strawberries, potatoes, eggplants, peppers, beets, carrots, garlic, radishes, pumpkins and cucumbers are not planted next to watermelons To create protection from the wind, corn, peas or beans are planted around the site; to prevent attacks of spider mites, black radishes are planted near watermelons; and tomatoes are planted to repel aphids, sawflies and moths.

Landing algorithm

Scheme for sowing watermelon seeds in open ground:

1. In the prepared area, form beds at a distance of 1.5-2 m from each other.
2. Every 0.7-1.5 m, make planting holes in them with a depth of at least 30 cm and a diameter of 1 m.
3. Add 1 kg of humus to each, 1 tbsp. l. ash, 1 tsp. nitroammophosphate and 2 liters of water.
4. Place 4-5 seeds in the holes, deepen them 3-6 cm, cover with soil, compact it.
5. Mulch the soil with humus.

After seed germination and in the phase of 3-4 leaves, the seedlings are thinned out.

Reference. This method of growing watermelons makes it possible to obtain fruits that are more resistant to stressful conditions, but the harvest ripens later.

Growing in a pot and care

After transplanting the crop into spacious pots, its root system begins to develop rapidly. Pinch the third or fourth leaf, giving the side branches a vertical or horizontal direction. You can also leave just one lash. In this case, the harvest will be obtained faster.

When the flowers bloom, perform artificial pollination. Without this procedure there will be no fruit. Using a soft brush, transfer pollen from a male flower with a thin stalk and stamens to a female flower with a thick stalk and pistil. The beginning of berry growth is signaled by an increase in the size of the female stalk. If the whip with the ovary is in a vertical position, it must be secured to avoid breakage.

Attention! You should not leave more than two fruits on one bush, otherwise they will not have enough nutrition.

Watering

Water generously but rarely (once a week) to prevent the soil from turning sour. If the soil is waterlogged, the taste of the fruit will deteriorate. Experts recommend limiting the water supply after the berries begin to ripen. It is believed that a slight moisture deficiency makes watermelons sweeter.

Feeding

The plant begins to be fed after the formation of three large leaf blades. First, the watermelon is watered with water, and then with a solution of complex fertilizer. At this stage, preparations with equal contents of potassium, nitrogen and phosphorus or with a slight predominance of nitrogen are suitable.

The second fertilizing with potassium and phosphorus fertilizers is carried out during the formation of the ovaries. After 2-3 weeks, the procedure is repeated a third time.

Features of cultivation

There are some important tips on how to grow watermelon at home and get a tasty fruit. Since watermelon is a very light-loving plant, a pair of reflective screens will help to grow watermelon, which will provide the plant with uniform lighting. As the lashes grow, they should be tied to the support with soft, wide ribbons. For proper formation of the plant, especially if there is not much space, peripheral loops are removed.

Experts often have differing opinions on watering. Some insist that growing watermelons at home requires abundant watering, while others are confident that during the ripening period it can be limited, even completely stopped, since water is not needed for the sugar content of the fruit. One way or another, it is recommended to water the seedlings as usual, as needed, and then navigate according to the situation and experience.

When the plant has 3 true leaves, you can begin fertilizing with complex mineral fertilizers, which should contain potassium, nitrogen and phosphorus (preferably in equal proportions). The second time, fertilizing is done during the formation of ovaries, and there should be more potassium and phosphorus. The third feeding is usually carried out after 2-3 weeks. As the watermelon grows, it is advisable to slightly loosen the soil in the container.

Diseases and pests

Watermelons are susceptible to a number of diseases, which especially often develop due to errors in care. When growing crops at home, the following pathologies are common:

1. Fusarium wilt is a fungal disease that leads to intoxication and death of the plant. For preventive purposes, the soil is disinfected and dried lashes are removed in a timely manner.
2. Anthracnose occurs when there is high air humidity. The rind of the watermelon becomes covered with yellow spots, which merge with each other over time. Keep equipment clean, disinfect the soil, and treat planting material with Fundazol.
3. Root rot - occurs when overwatering. The disease destroys the root system and appears as black-brown spots on the lower part of the stem. Copper sulfate and wood ash are used for treatment in the initial stages. In advanced cases, the diseased plant is destroyed.
4. Powdery mildew develops when the soil is infected with a fungus. The leaf blades become covered with white spots, the berries become deformed and become tasteless. Powdery mildew is combated using a 25% karatan solution.
5. Bacterial spotting - spots appear first on the leaves, and then on the peel of the fruit. There is no effective drug against this disease yet, so the affected parts of the crop are cut off.

Pests enter the pot from the street or from untreated soil. Watermelon is damaged by the following insects:

• melon aphid;
• germ fly larvae;
• spider mite;
• wireworm;
• thrips;
• root-knot nematode;
• cutworm butterflies;
• locusts

To get rid of pests, plants are sprayed with chemicals (BI-58, Fitoverm, etc.). Among the folk remedies, an infusion of wormwood, a solution of wood ash and laundry soap, as well as a chamomile decoction are effective.

Caring for watermelons grown in the country

Caring for watermelons growing in open ground consists of:

• regularly loosening the soil under plants;
• in watering and fertilizing melons and melons;
• in removing weeds;
• in the fight against pests and plant diseases;
• in protecting the lashes and ovaries from freezing.

The soil under the plants is loosened to a depth of 7 cm, not only after planting, but also after watering and rain, until the vines and foliage cover the spaces between the individual bushes.

To protect the ovaries and shoots from the wind, it is useful to secure the lashes to the ground using wire pins or by sprinkling sections of the stem with moist soil.

If there is a risk of moisture stagnation or insufficient light in the area where watermelons grow, trellises are built for the plants and, when the vines begin to grow, the shoots are transferred from the ground to strong vertical supports. This same technique is useful if there is not enough space in your dacha to grow watermelons using the traditional melon method. As they grow, the shoots are distributed along a trellis or laid out on the ground so that one lash does not shade the other.

If a watermelon in the country is grown on a trellis, it is recommended to leave only one main vine, on which, after flowering, depending on the variety and climate, 3 to 6 fruits should be formed. The remaining shoots are pinched in the early stages of growth, and then, when the ovaries reach the size of a five-ruble coin, the top of the fruiting stem is removed.

When growing watermelons in open ground using the melon method, pinch out all shoots after 3–6 ovaries, remove stems emerging from the leaf axils and female flowers.

It is interesting that the cut side vines can be rooted and you can also get a high-quality harvest from them, albeit late and small.

If there is a threat of frost in the area where watermelons grow, the plants are protected with cardboard or special covering material.

Harvesting

When the fruit ripens, its stalk dries out and the rind becomes glossy and smooth. Check the ripeness of the watermelon by lightly flicking it with your fingers. If it is ripe, the sound will be dull and deep.

The weight of home-grown berries usually does not exceed 600-800 g. If the plant has enough light, watermelons will be as sweet and tasty as fruits brought from the south.

Flowering and fruit formation

After about two months, the indoor watermelon begins to bloom: first the male flowers appear, then the female ones (they can be distinguished by their rounded stalk). Since there are no natural pollinators indoors, fertilization can be done by simply touching flower to flower or using a soft brush. Before this, female flowers can be treated with a special stimulant.

When the watermelons begin to grow, you should select 1-2 and remove the rest. To prevent the plant from breaking under its own weight, the fruits must be placed in a net and tied to a trellis or placed on the ground, having previously placed boards under them (otherwise they may rot). For the fruit to ripen, it needs 11 leaves; it is advisable to remove all the rest, as well as the top of the vine. It takes about a month from fertilization to maturity. A ripe watermelon can be identified by its dried stalk; when tapped, it makes a ringing sound. As you can see, growing watermelons on a windowsill is not that difficult!