Thornfree blackberry: characteristics of the variety, growing features

Thornfree is one of the thornless blackberry varieties. The name translates from English as “without thorns.” Because of this, some gardeners mistakenly classify all specimens of this species as Thornfree. When purchasing Thornfree blackberries, it is better to read the description of the variety in advance. This hybrid, bred in 1966 in the USA, differs from wild plants in its ease of care and high yields. It was with him that domestic gardeners began to become acquainted with Western species of this fruit shrub.

Variety Thornfree

Description of the variety

This blackberry variety is dessert. The berries on the bush ripen late. And the plant itself is a semi-creeping bush of impressive size. Blackberry shoots are thick, round in shape, and have no thorns, which makes the variety recognizable. The bush is half upright and massive. It needs support and pruning is required. The shoots of the plant reach 5 cm in thickness. Many fruit branches appear. Approximately 25 berries are formed on each cluster.

The very next year after planting, the bush begins to bear fruit. The leaves of this blackberry variety are large and dark green. The berries are also large, oval-shaped without blemishes, black in color. They can be frozen for the winter. Ever since the variety was developed, the taste of the berries has been rated with the highest scores. Now they are given 4 points when just removed from the bush, and when thawed - 3 points.

Until ripening, the berries retain a glossy shine. Only ripe fruits become matte, acquire sweetness and a noticeable aroma. But at the same time, the berries become more vulnerable to external influences. Therefore, they are collected for storage a little earlier. During the period when they have a slight sourness and almost no smell, but keep their shape perfectly.

Thornfree blackberries (a description of the variety and photos can be found online) have a high yield. With proper care and favorable weather conditions, one bush can produce about 20 kg of berries during the season.

The table provides a brief description of the variety:

Thornfree blackberries bloom pink. In the middle zone, flowers appear at the end of June. The bush bears fruit quite late. And the process lasts about 1.5 months. In cold areas, the berries do not have time to ripen. It is problematic to grow it in the northwestern regions.

For a very long time, it was the Thornfree variety that was considered one of the most productive. But others have now been developed, such as Black Satin. It is more productive, but the berries have a less intense taste.

Varietal characteristics

The description of the Thornfree blackberry is of interest to many summer residents. A distinctive feature of the culture is creeping shoots up to 6 meters long. The bushes are powerful, young branches have a green tint, mature ones are blue. Leaf blades are dark green.

Thornfree blackberry - a variety that is distinguished by the absence of thorns

The harvest ripens on two-year-old shoots. Flowering begins in June, the flowers are quite large in size, can reach 3.5 cm in diameter, have a pink tint, and have a wonderful smell.

Each cluster produces up to 40 berries. The fruiting period is approximately one and a half months, the weight of the fruit can reach up to 7 grams.

For reference! With good care, you can harvest up to 20 kg of harvest from one bush.

Advantages and disadvantages

Thornfree blackberry, a description of the variety and photo of which can be seen above, was bred for industrial cultivation. This should be kept in mind when assessing its positive and negative aspects.

Advantages of the variety:

• greater productivity;
• absence of thorns on the shoots;
• large berries;
• compared to other varieties, Thornfree tolerates drought and heat better;
• lack of growth next to the bush;
• resistance to many pests and diseases;
• When harvested at the correct stage of ripening, it tolerates transportation well.

Disadvantages of Thornfree:

• low resistance to frost;
• the stems are hard and difficult to cover for the winter;
• average taste quality of berries;
• late ripening of fruits, which does not allow the bush to be fully grown in the northern regions;
• overripe berries cannot be transported; they wrinkle and quickly deteriorate;
• Crops that are not harvested in time can be affected by gray rot.

Thornfree blackberries can develop gray mold if not picked promptly.
These features make the variety ideal for cultivation in the southern regions using industrial methods. On a personal plot, in order to get the most juicy and tasty berries, you will have to focus on regional characteristics and monitor the harvest time.

History of selection

Thornless blackberries Thornfree (Thonfree) appeared in 1966 thanks to the American breeder D. Scott.
It belongs to the Maryland varieties, widely known throughout the world. The hybrid blackberry Thornfree originates from the varieties Brined, Merton Thornles and Eldorado. In 2006, Thonfree was included in the State Register of the Russian Federation and recommended for cultivation in all regions.

Now Thornfree blackberries are used in the creation of new varieties as a donor of thornlessness and yield. In particular, it acted as one of the parent crops for the American Black Satin variety and the Serbian Chačanska Bestrna.

Disembarkation rules

Thornfree is a late variety. Therefore, it is planted in the spring. They do not plant in the fall for the reason that the planting material most likely will not survive the winter. The site is prepared in the fall in order to plant in early spring. Preference should be given to a sunny place. But in the southern regions it is better to be careful because the berries can “cook” due to extreme heat. In addition, in open space, shoots in spring and autumn can dry out too much in a strong wind and quickly freeze.

Thornfree blackberries should be planted on a level surface with protection to the north and north-west. Protection can be either a fence or any structure; other tall plantings are no less effective. A description of the planting method can be seen in numerous photos.

Blackberries can be planted in loamy soil with low acidity. And soil with a high sand content will require good fertilizer first. It will need to be dug up with the addition of clay and black soil.

In autumn, preparation involves fertilizing the site. This is especially necessary if such a procedure has not been carried out on the site for a long time. You will need manure, compost and ash. The soil needs to be dug up. During the autumn-winter period, fertilizers will release useful substances into the soil. Before spring planting, the soil should be prepared. This is done in the fall so that the fertilizer has time to transfer nutrients to the soil.

Autumn soil preparation for planting Thornfree can be carried out in the following order:

1. The soil is dug up.

2. Fertilizers are applied. Per 1 m² add 10 kg of humus, superphosphate and potassium salt.
3. To plant several bushes you will need a trench or several holes. The width and depth of each should be about 50 cm.

When planting blackberries in holes, a 1.8 * 1.8 m pattern is used. If the bushes are planted in trenches, then about 1 m is left between them, and row spacing is formed at least 2 m wide. In the spring, cuttings are prepared. They are cut to a height of about 25 cm. And then planted in pre-prepared holes. The neck of the cutting must be deepened into the soil by 3 cm. Freshly planted blackberry bushes are watered abundantly. The top of the planting is covered with mulch.

It can be sawdust, peat, dry grass, finely chopped branches. Mulch will help retain moisture in the soil and slow down the appearance of weeds near the bush. The first time after planting, blackberries are watered abundantly. 2 times a week you need to pour about 5 liters of water under the bush. As soon as the bush grows a root system, you can stop frequent and abundant watering.

But good watering will still be necessary during the flowering and ovary formation period. This will increase productivity. In summer, blackberries are watered even less frequently. And in the autumn, before wintering, water-charging watering is done.

Features of cultivation

Thornfree blackberries, the description of the variety and photo of which are given above, require mandatory gartering and lifting. Most often, one-sided garter is practiced, which involves spreading old and new shoots on opposite sides. Before sheltering for the winter, branches that will no longer bear fruit are cut off to the very roots. In the spring, young shoots are tied up in their place.

The support can be pipes or iron poles with a diameter of at least 10 cm and a height of about 2.5 m. They are immersed in the ground at a short distance from each other, and a wire is pulled between them at a height of about a meter.

Watering and loosening

Cuttings planted in the soil in spring need regular watering. This advice is especially relevant for the southern regions. Despite the variety's resistance to drought, to obtain a full harvest, watering is required as the soil under the bush dries out. You can slightly reduce the frequency of watering by mulching the soil under the bush.

In summer, blackberries need to be watered at least once a week. At the end of August, water less so that the fruits do not become watery. Thanks to this, the stems will become woody. After watering, the soil under the bush must be loosened each time so that air can easily penetrate into it. You can avoid this or do it less often if you cover the soil under the bush with mulch.

Top dressing

Only 3 years after planting the bushes, the soil will require fertilizer. Around this period, full fruiting occurs. You will need to fertilize throughout the season. In spring, nitrogen-containing fertilizers will be useful. They will help increase the number and growth rate of new shoots. You can use humus, bird droppings, and saltpeter.

In the summer, ash and mineral fertilizers are added to the soil to ripen the fruits. You can also use herbal infusions. In the fall, after harvesting the last harvest, water with diluted organic matter or ash. This will help strengthen the root system.

Bush formation

Thornfree blackberries, a description of the variety and a photo of which can be seen above, require shortening young shoots immediately after planting. Branches that bear fruit for one season are also pruned. Old branches are cut off in the autumn, when the last berries have already been collected and it is time to cover the blackberries for the winter. Next year, berries will appear on new shoots that the bush will produce in the spring.

If fruit-bearing shoots are not cut off, they will still dry out during the next season. Fruits will no longer appear on them, so they are simply not needed. In addition, old branches will take away moisture from young ones. The bush is pruned and formed in the spring. The plant is opened and the best 5-6 shoots that have survived the winter well are selected. It is difficult to form a bush, because the shoots are woody and do not bend well.

Trimming methods:

• The young shoot is pinched while it is still growing, as soon as it reaches a height of 20 cm. This allows you to get several branches that will be thinner than the mother trunk. They are easier to handle as they bend more easily.
• The shoots are allowed to grow to their full length. Then the top is cut off. The side shoots that appear after the procedure are pinched when they reach a length of 40 cm.
• Only cut off excessively long branches.

Shaping the bush allows you to get a neater bush. In addition, it is easier to cover it for the winter.

Preparing for winter

Thornfree blackberries tolerate frosts well down to -20°C. If in the planting region the temperatures are even lower in winter, then the bushes need to be prepared for winter. The first step is to cut off the damaged branches. Before the first snow, the branches are removed from the trellis and laid on the ground. Secure them in a lying position in any convenient way. Most often this is done with metal hooks that just need to be driven into the soil.

Next, mulch the soil. For this you can use peat and plant soil. The thickness of the coating must be at least 5 cm.

Then the bush is covered:

• Spunbond, folded in 2 rows. It allows air and moisture to pass through well.
• Film. Dense samples are chosen for this.
• Spruce branches . Good air permeability. But it is only suitable for small planting areas.
• Straw or leaves. They are also covered with non-woven material on top to prevent the wind from blowing them around.

But the best way to cover specifically for Thornfree blackberries is straw or spruce branches, which are covered on top with a sheet of slate or agrofibre. In the spring, the branches are lifted and tied back to the trellis.

How can you cover blackberries for the winter?

For shelter, you can use improvised or purchased materials.

Available materials

Suitable materials for shelter include:

1. Soil - this type requires a lot of time, but gives a good effect. The disadvantages include the difficulty of removing this type of cover in the spring - the thorns can scratch your hands, and the remaining soil on the tops of the bushes causes increased growth of side shoots.
2. Snow - in snowy winter conditions it will reliably protect the plant, but in the event of a thaw it can be a dangerous source of excess moisture, which will freeze and damage the plant when cold weather sets in.
3. Vegetable tops - dried and healthy ones are used, which are harvested during the vegetable harvesting process.
4. Hay and straw - both materials are easy to use and can be easily removed in the spring. The downside is that such a shelter can attract mice for the winter, which will willingly feast on blackberry bushes.
5. Fallen tree leaves - this type is characterized by low labor intensity, but it is important not to cover it with leaves from fruit and berry trees, as pest larvae can be transmitted with it.
6. Corn leaves - this material is characterized by rigidity, so it can protect the bush well; it also does not absorb water well. The leaves are dried after the corn harvest or used naturally dried, laid in a thick layer. Make sure the leaves are healthy and undamaged.
7. Sawdust and shavings are not recommended for use due to the fact that they reduce the nitrogen content, acidify the soil, strongly absorb water, which then freezes into an ice block, and promote the proliferation of pests.
8. Peat is characterized by a high degree of moisture absorption, so it is not suitable.
9. Branches of coniferous trees - a thick layer of this shelter allows the bush to breathe, retains heat well, and repels rodents and pests.
10. Sunflower husks, buckwheat, rice - the material is good because it does not absorb water well, but you will need a lot of it to cover it.

The positive side of using scrap materials is the absence of financial costs, the negative is the impossibility of using them over large areas.

Synthetic materials

You can cover blackberries using synthetic materials purchased in the store:

1. Film - its thick layer will serve as a good shelter in a snowy winter, but can create problems if a thaw occurs. In this case, a lot of moisture and heat will form under it, which will lead to rotting. Snowless winters pose a danger; in this case, a greenhouse effect occurs, which is created by the sun on a frosty day and creates a high temperature under the film. After sunset, the drop in temperature leads to frostbite. As an option, you can put paper under the film or sprinkle sawdust on top.
2. Ruberoid, pieces of old linoleum - the ease of use of this type of shelter resists fragility during frosts.
3. Felt or synthetic winterizer - this type is only suitable for northern latitudes, where there are snowy and frosty winters, since during a thaw the material can pick up moisture and the blackberries will freeze.
4. Burlap - used as an additional covering material in conjunction with improvised means of covering.
5. Non-woven material (spunbond, agrotex, lutrasil, agrospan) - the advantage of this type of material is good frost protection and the ability to allow air to pass through. It does not create a greenhouse effect, so you can cover it with it before the start of frost, and remove it long after it ends.
6. Polystyrene foam protects well, but is expensive and easily chewed by mice.

Reproduction methods

The developed varieties of blackberries that do not have thorns are characterized not only by ease of care, but also by the same ease of propagation. Thornfree is much easier to cut and root than other varieties.

Gardeners propagate blackberries in the following ways:

• seeds;
• pulping;
• bends;

• from root suckers;
• cuttings;
• dividing the bush.

The simplest, and therefore popular of them, are pulping and cuttings.

Pulping is carried out in the following order:

1. Select a blackberry branch, which is located below. It should be about 40 cm long.
2. Cut off the top of the branch to a distance of 4 buds.
3. The stem is stuck into the soil with its cut end.
4. It is watered periodically.

The procedure is carried out in mid-April. This way the stem will have time to take root before the onset of cold weather. As soon as buds appear on the stem dug into the ground, it is separated from the mother plant. For cuttings it is necessary to select material. Most often these are ordinary branches that are cut off.

The cutting process is carried out as follows:

1. Preliminary preparation is carried out, which consists of sharpening the sections and sprinkling them with growth stimulants. Kornevin is perfect for this.
2. Choose a container. It must be as opaque as possible, since the roots form better in the dark.
3. 3 cuttings are immersed in each container, after filling it with water.
4. A month later, after the roots have formed, the cuttings are removed.
5. They are buried in pots. You can fill them not only with soil, but also with sand or sawdust.

Cuttings are carried out at the end of August or beginning of September. Thornfree blackberries tolerate low temperatures well. But cuttings are planted in the ground in the spring. Before planting, you need to choose a place and prepare a hole.

The bottom is lined with the following three layers in succession:

• drainage 15 cm thick;
• peat or black soil 15 cm thick;
• garden soil 15 cm thick.

Thornfree does not like alkaline soils. Therefore, it is better to acidify the garden soil before pouring it into the hole. Further care for cuttings does not differ from the usual care for adult plants.

The only peculiarity is that in the first year the bush definitely does not need feeding. The nutrients contained in the hole will be enough for him.

Treatment against diseases and pests

Blackberry Thornfree very rarely gets sick. Almost the only disease is gray rot. It can infect a plant if the plant bears fruit, but the berries are not collected on time. This happens because the fruits begin to rot and decompose, attracting bacteria. Pests also rarely appear on blackberries. This only happens if the plant is not properly cared for. It becomes weak and susceptible to infections.

Preventive measures to avoid the development of disease in blackberries:

• Thornfree should not be planted next to raspberries, strawberries, or nightshade varieties. These plants can infect blackberries with their common diseases.
• After raising the shoots of the plant in the spring, it must be watered with copper sulfate. The same procedure is carried out before covering for the winter.
• When fertilizing the roots, Epin can be added to the solution with fertilizer. This will support and strengthen the immune defense of blackberries.
• When planting between blackberry bushes, you must maintain the recommended distance. Planting should not be done more densely than required.
• In the spring, bushes are treated with Nitrofen against pests.

• It is imperative to weed the soil under the blackberries, and burn the fallen leaves and grass waste.
• In the fall, you need to dig up the area where the blackberries are located.
• Be sure to trim the bushes.
• In autumn, shoots can be sprayed with Bordeaux mixture to avoid the appearance of fungal diseases in winter.
• Since mice can settle in the winter shelter and can damage the base of the shoots, you can leave mouse poison in little bags there.

Preventive measures will help avoid the appearance of diseases and pests on the plant. Since in general the plant is resistant to infectious diseases and fungal diseases, it is enough to follow simple rules and the bushes will always be healthy.

When is the best time to start covering?

Blackberry bushes freeze at a temperature of about -17 °C; a sharp drop in temperature is especially dangerous, which can destroy the plant even at -10 °C. The best time for shelter is when the temperature is constantly at -5 ° C, that is, usually at the end of October or early November (the time period may vary depending on the region).

If you cover the bushes ahead of time, then under the influence of heat they will continue to grow, and in the absence of light and ventilation, the young shoots will stagnate and rot. Rotting of roots and ground shoots is promoted by condensation formed under cover from excess heat and lack of air.

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Tips and tricks for growing

To get the largest possible harvest, experienced gardeners recommend adhering to the following rules when growing Thornfree blackberries:

• It is necessary to plant the bushes in the soil approximately 2 weeks before the expected first frost. And in the spring, even before the start of active growth.
• A prerequisite for a good harvest is the selection of the optimal place for planting and complete filling of the hole.
• The bushes need to be planted to a depth of 30 cm according to the 2.5X1.5 m pattern.
• Water the plant generously after flowering.
• The yield of the bush is directly affected by the shape of the crown, so blackberries of this variety must be pruned.
• It is better to cover blackberries for the winter with natural materials rather than film.

Despite the fact that the Thornfree blackberry variety was bred quite a long time ago, it was replaced by competitors, they are still not able to fully compete with the variety. The description of the bush and its photo allows you to appreciate all the advantages of the variety.