Care depending on the variety
Caring for blackberries, such as watering, preparing for winter cold, feeding with fertilizers, is common for all varieties. There are some differences in pruning. For tall species, bush formation is required every year. Pruning involves pinching off the tops of the main branches. This will stimulate the growth of young branches and the bush will be more lush.
Summer care
In summer, during the heat of June and July, when the temperature reaches +30 degrees, blackberries are watered at least three times a week.
Pour a bucket of water onto one bush. Watering is done twice a day: in the morning and in the evening. At normal air humidity and temperature no higher than +25 degrees, as well as in the presence of rain, you should refuse watering. This procedure is carried out only in cases where the soil dries out by about 15 centimeters.
Scheme of planting and watering blackberries
Fertilizers for blackberries
It is necessary to fertilize blackberries to obtain a bountiful harvest. The basic rules for applying fertilizers include:
- The amount of fertilizer applied depends on how long the crop has been growing on the given land, how much harvest needs to be obtained, how densely the bushes are planted, etc.
- Before planting a bush, gardeners, as a rule, spread humus, nitrogen and phosphorus in the spring, and potassium in the fall.
- Before planting blackberry berries in the fall, after harvesting previously growing crops, they nourish the soil with mineral and organic fertilizers: rotted manure, phosphorus and potassium.
- If a bountiful harvest is not required, and the soil in the garden is not of very high quality, then for an adult bush that is 3 years old, organic matter and a nitrogen-mineral complex are used: humus (5-7 kg), ammonium nitrate (40 g), potassium fertilizers (25 -30 g), superphosphate (90-100 g).
- In places where the soil is fertile, organic fertilizing should not be carried out. Otherwise, the plant will begin to actively grow, which will lead to a decrease in the berry yield.
Complex mineral fertilizer for berry bushes
What fertilizers are there for blackberries?
The main task of the gardener is to solve the problem of how to additionally fertilize blackberries. All fertilizers can be divided into mineral and organic.
Mineral fertilizers
The most popular types of mineral fertilizers for the described crop include:
- Master: a composition of several microelements, which are presented in the form of chelates. The fertilizer is universal for all types of plants at any stage of development. It contains different ratios of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Apply by sprinkling or drip irrigation. Suitable for almost all varieties of blackberries.
Pros: soluble in water, effective to use, easy to use, quickly absorbed by the plant, low price.
Cons: none found.
Universal fertilizer Master for all types of plants
- Plantafol: used to feed leaves. It includes complexes of nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and trace elements. Can be used at any stage of cultural development. Fertilizer is used in tank mixtures with pesticides. It stimulates processes that are associated with plant nutrition.
Pros: does not leave residue on the leaves, affordable price, effective in use Cons: inconvenient storage.
Plantafol is used to feed leaves
- Kemira: complex fertilizer in the form of granules, does not contain chlorine. It includes all the micro- and macroelements necessary for the plant in optimal proportions. Used for growth and good yield. It is used during soil preparation for planting seedlings and during the growing season.
Pros: quickly dissolves in water, effective, few toxins Cons: high price.
Kemira is used to obtain a good harvest
- Solyupotass: nitrogen-containing fertilizer without chlorine. It has a positive effect on the crop’s resistance to drought, frost, and fungus. Has a beneficial effect on the ripening of berries. Well suited for use at the final stage of fruit formation.
Pros: ease of use, efficiency, low cost. Cons: inconvenient packaging.
Solyupotass has a beneficial effect on berry ripening
- Agriflex: used as an anti-stress adaptogen. Promotes the active growth of the plant, protects it from severe frosts, increases the protective reaction, and contributes to obtaining a bountiful harvest.
Pros: effectiveness, ease of use. Cons: high cost.
Agriflex promotes active plant growth
Organic fertilizers
Organic fertilizers improve soil quality while maintaining a balanced water and air regime. These include:
- Fertimix Biohumus. Promotes growth of leaves and root system. Feed once every two weeks.
Pros: high quality, low cost, safe composition. Cons: none found.
Fertimix Biohumus - organic fertilizer
- Novofert berry. It is used once every two weeks when the berries ripen. Fertilizers are applied by watering or spraying. Effectively and quickly increases berry yield. It also helps protect the crop from fungal infections.
Pros: quick effect, natural composition, low price. Cons: none.
Novofert berry, increases berry yield
- Riverm: fertilizer in liquid form, provides significant crop growth. It is a slightly alkaline solution with fungicidal properties. Protects the plant from many fungal diseases: powdery mildew, gray rot, etc.
Pros: low cost, ease of use. Disadvantages: none found.
Riverm protects plants from fungal diseases
- Bioterra: contains four types of manure and other agricultural waste. Has a significant impact on soil fertility. Has the ability to ensure the survival of culture and its full development.
Pros: effectively improves soil quality, does not have a strong odor. Cons: none found.
Bioterra - soil fertilizer
Opening after winter and checking the condition of the bushes
It is in the spring that every gardener spends most of his time in the garden. When growing blackberries, you should remember that you have to really take care of the crop. It is especially important to control the number of young animals. Wrapping the crop for the frosty period is necessary for the crop to survive bad weather without problems, begin active growth in the spring and enjoy the harvest in the summer.
The following means are mainly used for covering:
- peat;
- wood chips;
- fir branches;
- humus;
- dry fallen leaves (not from garden and flower crops);
- sawdust;
- dry straw;
- tree bark.
Experienced gardeners also use various non-woven products, including spunbond, roofing felt, agrospan, plastic film, and lutrasil.
Before using the shelter, you need to carefully bend the stems to the ground and secure them using hooks or other suitable devices. Three troubles await the crop in the spring before the cover is removed:
- spring desiccation, which is exposure to dry cold wind at a temperature of about -3°C (leaves turn black, shoots dry out and become brittle);
- return frost, which suggests that low temperatures return at night, having a negative effect on the plant;
- damping-off observed in the form of condensation when the cover is removed late.
It is advisable to get rid of winter materials as soon as the last frost has subsided. When the air temperature warms up to +5°C and above, you can remove the shelter. The fact that it is necessary to get rid of it immediately is indicated by the presence of condensation that appears on the walls.
Important! Do not delay removing the cover, since evaporation inside the materials occurs under the influence of heat. This has a negative effect on the bush and leads to the activation of pathogenic microflora and bacteria, which provokes rotting of the plant and the development of fungal diseases.
Practice shows that early opening (even under suitable weather conditions) in March leads to a delay in harvest. If you keep it longer (literally until the buds are almost completely open), you can speed up the ripening of the fruit.
The optimal time for removing the shelter is the established night and day temperature conditions from +5°C (in different regions this occurs in different months, usually from the beginning of March to the end of May), but before the buds fully open. Usually you need to wait 2-3 weeks after the snow melts.
Immediately after this, the shoots are left to lie on the ground for about a week. There is no need to tie them to a trellis to prevent drying out; it is advisable to cover them with a thin, breathable agro-fabric to increase protection. You can do without fabric in cloudy weather, high humidity, and if the blackberries are not located at a high elevation.
Next you need to clean the plantings. To do this, remove rotten leaves, plant mulch, and trim damaged and rotten shoots and tops. After this, the plants are left to dry. It is advisable that this process occurs under a thin white cloth to avoid overdrying and exposure to ultraviolet rays. The fabric is lifted from time to time for ventilation. This avoids moisture accumulation.
Fertilizing blackberries at different times
Spring fertilizers
In spring (April), the blackberry bush needs nitrogen fertilizing. To get a rich harvest you should:
- contribute per 1 sq. m 20-25 g of saltpeter;
- add 10-15 g of urea per 1 sq. m;
- mulch the soil in the area near the roots with peat, manure, humus to a depth of 10 cm;
Feeding the root system with humus is enough for 2-3 years.
If the soil is infertile, then it is necessary to feed it with Kemira, Master, etc. In spring, it is imperative to fertilize the soil. Since it is at this time that the number of pests increases significantly and there is a high probability of infection with various diseases.
Summer fertilizers
The third time fertilizers are applied to the crop in question during fruiting (mid-August).
It is worth feeding blackberries in the summer with complex mineral fertilizers. It is necessary to fertilize the bush in moderation, otherwise the crop can be seriously harmed. The leaves are sprayed with potassium dissolved in water, as well as phosphorus and nitrogen. Mineral fertilizers are used only in moist soil. During the ripening period of the berries, the following feeding is carried out for the plant: potassium sulfate (2 tablespoons) is dissolved in water (10 l). For 1 sq. m. use 6-7 liters of solution. Before carrying out this procedure, the ground is thoroughly spilled with wood ash.
Wood ash for soil
Autumn fertilizers
During autumn digging (September), the soil is fed with fertilizers, which consist of organic substances. Between the rows they dig up the ground with a pitchfork, adding a mixture of superphosphates, manure and potassium sulfate. Every year, humus and compost are used, which are prepared in advance.
Fertilizers for certain varieties
When selecting fertilizer for a crop, it is important to consider the variety of crop being grown.
The main difference is the presence of spines: thornless and spiny types. According to the amount of harvested crops - remontant and ordinary. The most famous types:
- Thornless variety Thornfree
. Grows well in the Krasnodar region. Rotted manure is suitable for it. In spring, the crop is fed with nitrogen-containing fertilizers, which promote the growth of thornless blackberries. To do this, take 20 g of ammonium nitrate per square meter. m. When the bush bears fruit, it is fertilized with phosphorus. Closer to autumn, potassium is added. - Blackberry Agavam
. The variety requires constant application of organo-mineral fertilizers. During the beginning of the growing season, the plant is fertilized with complex nitrogen-containing minerals. For example, nitrophoska in a proportion of 20-30 g/m2. m. During fertilizing, the soil is loosened in the rows and between them. Loosening depth is up to 5 cm. If the bush is in good condition, then there is no need for a second feeding, in June, so as not to provoke long-term growth of branches. - Apache
. The variety bears fruit well in central Russia and the Moscow region. In the spring it is fertilized with the following mixture: humus 1.5 kg, superphosphate 10 g, potassium fertilizer 5 g, garden soil 5 kg. 1.5 kg is applied per square meter. After three years, repeat feeding. Also in spring, the crop is fertilized with ammonium nitrate (250 g per 10 sq. m) and urea (100 g per 10 sq. m). In the autumn, 6 kg of humus is added. - Polar
. In spring, 50 g of ammonium nitrate is laid under the bush to a depth of 10 cm. When the spring frosts pass, they also fertilize with humus (6 kg) and superphosphate (100 g). At the beginning of summer, manure diluted with water (1:5) is removed. - Natchez
. Three feedings are carried out per season. In early spring, 5 kg of humus and 50 g of ammonium nitrate are added to the bush. Before flowering, the plant is watered with diluted mullein (1 kg per 10 liters of water) or bird droppings (1 kg per 20 liters of water). When the harvest is harvested, the bush is fed with wood ash (500 g per bush) and complex superphosphate (100 g per bush).
Natural fertilizer - humus
Crouching to the ground
Preparing blackberries for winter in the fall will allow you to grow a healthy bush and get large, juicy berries from it. Of no small importance is the stage of bending its shoots to the ground. If you don’t prepare them and press down the loose stems, it will be difficult to cover the blackberries.
To prevent the branches from breaking, a hard round object with a diameter of 10 to 20 cm is placed at the very base of the bush. A section from a tree trunk is perfect for this purpose. Carefully bend the plant so that the bend follows a radius. Then the stems are fixed in this form by attaching them to pre-hammered hooks or pegs. If the bush is erect, bending down should be done gradually. This simple technique will allow you to securely secure blackberries for the winter, so caring for them in the spring will no longer be so labor-intensive.
Important! If the bushes were planted in a strip, then it is more advisable to bend them not in a circle, but in a straight line.
To do this, the stems of the bush are bent towards each other, the rods are collected together and tied. This results in a solid line, which is easier to cover later.
One of the ways to bend down and fix a blackberry bush in this position
Contribution of folk remedies
Among the home options for feeding this crop are:
- Urea treatment
. More than half of the composition is nitrogen. It dissolves easily. Feeding is carried out in 2 approaches: during the formation of flowers and during the period when the fruits ripen. 10 g of urea are diluted in water (2 l). Then the bush is sprayed. - Nitrate (ammonium nitrate).
It is a salt of nitric acid. Sodium, potassium, and ammonium nitrate are isolated. The result of its use is the strength of the bush and an increase in the quality characteristics of the berries. For feeding you need 20-30 g/sq.m. m. If the soil quality is low, add 30-50 g/sq. m. - Using egg shells
. It is a fertilizer with a high level of calcium in its composition. It also contains: iron, magnesium, fluorine, phosphorus, etc. To prepare the fertilizer, the shells are crushed and then watered. The shells are left in this state for a day. The next day, pour the mixture under the bush. - Yeast
: tolerates all varieties favorably. Yeast will also be useful for microorganisms living in the soil. To prepare the mixture, they are taken dry and diluted in warm water: 10 g/10 l. Then add sugar (2 tbsp) and leave for 2 hours. - Feeding with compost
. It is a composition that consists of plant or animal waste (weeds, grass, etc.). It is applied as mulch with or without digging. Humus is placed in the planting hole in the spring and autumn. - Seaweed
. They include 60 microelements, nutrients, growth elements that fight fungi and diseases, and also repel harmful insects, improve soil quality, and are part of compost. - Shoddy
. Feeding consisting of wool waste. It contains nitrogen and decomposes well in the soil. This type of fertilizing is applied in autumn and winter. Use 6 kg/sq. m. - Manure
_ They fertilize berries only once over several years. Before applying it, the soil is loosened, then manure mixed with soil (5 kg/sq. m) is added. During the autumn digging they add: per 1 sq. m mix 5 kg of manure, 40 g of potassium sulfate and 30 g of superphosphate. - Chicken droppings
. It is one of the most effective fertilizers. It includes nitrogen, phosphorus, calcium, potassium, magnesium, sulfur, lime, etc.
To improve the quality characteristics of chicken manure, it is dried and kept in plastic containers with holes for better air passage.
Chicken manure - soil amendment
To feed with droppings in the fall, use a bucket of the mixture (3-7 kg per 5 sq. m). The culture feeding procedure is carried out once in May-June, another time during the formation of berries, and a third time when the fruits are ripe.
Description of the plant
Blackberries (Rubus) belong to the Rosaceae family. This shrub is becoming increasingly popular in our gardens - its berries are tasty and healthy, and caring for garden blackberries is not difficult.
Plant characteristics
- Escape. A shrub with straight, rigid shoots (American varieties) or arched, reaching a length of 2 meters. There are also species with stems creeping along the ground. The shoots of wild blackberries are covered with straight or hook-shaped, downward-curved spines of varying sizes. Garden blackberries have no thorns.
- Roots. The bushes form underground rhizomes, due to which they grow quite quickly.
- leaves are finger-shaped, wrinkled along the veins.
- The flowers are white or pink, collected in clusters or panicles.
- The fruits are dark purple or black in color and have quite a variety of flavors, ranging from sweet to sour.
Blackberries grow naturally in Europe, North America, and Asia. In Russia it is found in many regions, in Belarus, Ukraine - throughout the country. Favorite places for blackberries in the wild are forest edges, especially oak-hornbeam, beech, and oak forests. The shrub loves fertile, moist areas most of all, so it often grows in ditches, near field and forest roads, and in clearings. The number of species that grow naturally is difficult to determine because they overlap each other to create new varieties.
Scientists - bathologists (bathology is the science of blackberries) have not yet determined the exact number of blackberry species, some say that there are more than 300 of them in the world.
There are mainly 2 species growing in Russia:
- Rubus fruticosus – bushy (bush);
- Rubus caesius – gray (ozhina, azhina).
Plants that freely interbreed under natural conditions prevent full systematization. For centuries, blackberries were collected primarily from wild bushes. Nowadays, thorny species of this plant are no longer grown in gardens; they have been replaced by varieties without thorns, obtained by scientists as a result of selection.
Benefits of fruits and leaves
The sweet-sour and rich taste of blackberries makes them suitable for the production of tinctures, jams, and wines. Thornless blackberries, like raspberries, are a rich source of nutrients that promote health:
- contain antioxidants;
- The large amount of fiber contained in berries limits the absorption of unhealthy fats, reduces the risk of heart attack, regulates blood sugar levels and speeds up metabolism, which is especially desirable when dieting for weight loss;
- a large amount of vitamin C (ascorbic acid) in berries helps the body fight infections;
- the presence of vitamins C, E and anthocyanins alleviates the consequences of eye diseases;
- Vitamin K, calcium and magnesium have a positive effect on bone health.
Not only the fruits, but also the leaves of the plant are beneficial for health. Infusions and teas from blackberry leaves have antidiarrheal and antipyretic properties, and relieve the symptoms of premenstrual syndrome. The health benefits of blackberry fruits and leaves have been known for centuries. Frozen berries retain valuable nutrients, make jams, juices, infusions and wines taste much better, and can complement a healthy diet.
Fertilizers for various types of soil
Blackberries do not have any claims to soil.
However, it is best to grow the crop on thoroughly drained, fertilized loamy soils that have a neutral or slightly acidic reaction. Limestone soil is not suitable for this crop. It is low in iron and magnesium, so the crop can suffer from chlorosis. Acidic soils with a pH of 6 are most suitable for the plant. Sandy and poor soils need to increase their water-holding capacity. To do this, it is fed with organic fertilizers. Chernozem soils are also suitable for blackberries. The carbonate layer of such soils should be below 1.2-1.3 m. Clay soils are not suitable for the crop.
Bush pruning
Spring pruning is mandatory. It is complex and time-consuming. All varieties of blackberries require special care: erect, creeping, remontant. You need to familiarize yourself with the main features of the procedure in order to perform it quickly and without any problems.
Important! Blackberries are a biennial crop. The harvest comes exclusively from last year's branches, and only once. After this, you can cut them off without regret: they will not produce more harvest, but will only interfere with the young growth. If you ignore pruning, then after a year you can expect exceptionally small and sour berries.
Please note that it is advisable to carry out the procedure in early spring. The optimal temperature is no more than +5...+7°C, and the snow should completely melt away. It is in this case that the crop will tolerate pruning painlessly.
Sanitary
Sanitary pruning is considered one of the most important. It pursues the following goals:
- removing shoots to the very roots that have already borne fruit;
- inspection of young growth to remove immature and too thin branches;
- getting rid of dry, damaged, diseased and non-viable shoots;
- correct distribution of load on the roots.
Pruning comes down to removing all branches except the 10 strongest. The latter are cut immediately above the origin of the kidney. Usually it is enough to cut about 20 cm.
Formative
Formative pruning can be done using one of several algorithms, taking into account the plant variety. Forming a bush is an opportunity to facilitate the procedure of care and insulation before winter.
Upright varieties pleasantly surprise with excellent frost resistance and excellent yield. The formation of such shrubs is necessary for a beautiful appearance, the absence of unnecessary branches, as well as for convenient insulation of fragile shoots. So, you need to act as follows:
- overwintered lashes are carefully lifted, placed on a trellis and fixed vertically;
- young growth is tied up as it grows along the bottom row, moving along the contour of the bush and at an angle;
- woody shoots are placed in the central part for ease of removal later;
- the 10 strongest ones are selected, and all other shoots are cut off at the root;
- young growth should be cut by ¼ (in the summer it will grow upward and eventually settle vertically);
- the remaining branches are carefully bent to the ground, placed on the ground in the form of a fan or sun, covered with a layer of mulch (agrofibre, straw, burlap are suitable);
- After wintering, the bushes are opened and after the flexibility of the branches is restored, they are tied vertically.
The formation of creeping shrubs, which are not so resistant to low temperatures, occurs in a different way. A distinctive feature is long (mostly up to 10 m) and flexible shoots, which is important to consider when creating a crown. In the spring, you should select the 10 strongest shoots that will survive the winter, and the rest should be cut out without regret. If this is not done, then the necessary shoots will receive an order of magnitude less nutrients. In the spring, you must definitely devote time to forming the bush, otherwise in the fall it will be impossible to cope with it.
You need to proceed as follows:
- overwintered lashes are wound on a wire in a spiral to the right;
- with young animals they do the same, but move to the left;
- in the fall, old branches are cut off;
- the young animals need to be unwound, the 10 best lashes selected, the rest cut out without regret;
- for wintering, the bush is placed in a dug trench to get rid of the hassle with thorns, and thornless varieties are simply covered with agrofibre and fixed with arc-shaped rods.
Remontant varieties are considered the newest and pleasantly surprise with their excellent characteristics. The easiest way to prepare them for winter is to form a bush. Preparation for wintering comes down to removing all shoots at the root. The remaining stump is covered with mulch or other garden insulation. In the spring, new shoots will appear, which will produce a harvest this year.
Garter
Almost all varieties of blackberries require staking due to the high flexibility of the shoots, as well as their susceptibility to breakage. If you do not make a garter, the branches can break in the rain, in strong winds, and even under the weight of their fruits. The garter also provides convenience for picking berries due to the fact that most varieties have thorns. In addition, the crop is sun-loving, so the lack of sufficient lighting will not allow you to get a good harvest.
When choosing materials, you need to comply with some requirements, namely:
- They should not be slippery, otherwise the shoots will move, especially in the rain and wind.
- Nylon line is a poor choice. It slips and also damages the shoots.
- The stems should have minimal contact with the wire, otherwise there is a risk of damage to the shoots, especially in bad weather.
- When exposed to sunlight, the material should still remain durable.
- The material must be flexible and light.
- Do not use material that can damage the shoots during berry picking or when performing various bush care procedures.
In general, give preference to materials that are highly resistant to chemical compounds (including those used for feeding), durable and reliable. Rapidly oxidizing materials must not be used. They must be soaked in copper sulfate or treated with bitumen.
Learn how to make your own trellises (supports) for blackberries.
There are 5 main methods of gartering, information about which is given below:
Single trellis. Trellis with one or more stripes are suitable. Single-lane ones are the most popular. For manufacturing, two supports are taken. Preferred materials are wood and metal. Height - 1.2–1.7 m. They are immersed in a hole 0.5 m deep, sprinkled with broken bricks (crushed stone can be used as an alternative). There should be about 4–6 m between the supports, and they, in turn, are separated by supports, the height of which is 70 cm from the ground. A wire should be pulled over the latter, to which the shoots of the crop are attached, securing each one in turn.
The shoots are wrapped around the wire rather than tied. It is very important. It’s not difficult to make sure that everything is done correctly: you need to look at the profile of the row. If the gardener acted correctly, then all the stems will be arranged in the form of the letter “V”.
You can use multi-lane trellises, which are similar in design, but in this case they use pillars 2–2.5 m high, which are placed at a distance of 5–6 m from each other. The wire is pulled in several layers between them.
Double trellis. The design is slightly different from that described in the previous method. To build it, you need to use pillars approximately 2 m high. They are installed in holes at a distance of 3–4 m from each other, and transverse supports 40–60 cm long, made of metal or wood, are placed on them. Then the wire is pulled between them in 2 rows so that the first layer is stretched at a height of 1 m from the ground level, and the second at a height of 1.5 m. Moreover, the tension is performed at both ends of the crossbars, so the branches will be, as it were, inside the structure.
Fan. This structure is extremely simple. You need to drive a 2 m high pole between two adjacent bushes. The shoots are tied to it with thick twine. Moreover, one shoot is taken from the left bush, and the other from the right.
Tying with a bun . Drive a stake into the center of the bush. Then all the shoots are tied and mounted on a pole. This method is not very popular because it has disadvantages: the bushes receive little light, and the plants' resistance to fungal diseases is reduced.
Using a single support . Near the bush you need to drive a pole and tie nearby shoots to it.
This method is used only when growing single bushes. Most often, metal poles are used, which are buried to a depth of 40–50 cm.
The most common are trellis and fan methods. The rest are rarely used.
Pest Control
Blackberries are a crop that is resistant to diseases and pests.
Problems with the plant only arise if it is not cared for properly. Among harmful insects, raspberry beetles are especially dangerous. You can fight them only by picking ripe berries. Overwatering can cause root rot. When it occurs, the soil is thoroughly drained and the volume of water poured is adjusted. Fungal infections occur more often in the spring with high humidity, after cleaning the shelter. Therefore, covering the bush should only be done with breathable materials. If a plant lacks iron or magnesium, it develops chlorosis. The disease manifests itself in yellowing and wilting of leaves. To eliminate the problem, the shrub is fed with mineral fertilizers.
Blackberries require care and careful care. However, its cultivation does not cause any particular problems. Fertilizers play an important role in growing crops. They should be selected depending on the variety, soil and season. If you properly care for the plant, fertilizing will be necessary only at certain times of the year.
Advantages
Blackberries have many advantages when compared to other berries.
Main advantages:
- high yield (up to 4 times higher than raspberries), second only to grapes in productivity;
- excellent immunity - less likely to be affected by pathogens and pests;
- relatively undemanding to soil composition;
- drought-resistant due to a fairly branched root system;
- Possibility of freezing without loss of quality.
In addition to the undeniable advantages, there are also disadvantages to cultivating this berry garden. Among the latter (especially during industrial cultivation) note:
- poor shelf life (quick sale or processing required);
- bears fruit only on two-year-old shoots;
- needs shelter for the winter (except for the southern regions).