Onion: botanical description
Batun is a perennial plant characterized by the presence of bulbs with thin scales. Bulbs do not store well in winter. Only the stems and leaves are eaten, and this variety is grown precisely for them.
The onion reaches a height of 60 centimeters. In the second year of cultivation, the shoots are about 45 centimeters. Young feathers easily tolerate temperatures down to -8 degrees; frost resistance is the main property of the plant; it does not require additional heat for normal development.
In appearance, the spring onion resembles a young onion, only the leaves are larger and larger, up to 40 cm in length and up to 2 centimeters in diameter. It does not form a real bulb, like a regular onion; instead, a “false bulb” forms in the soil. Batun is a variety with a mildly pungent taste and also contains a large amount of vitamin C.
Most often, the grown batun is propagated by seeds, but it is also grown vegetatively. This plant grows quietly in one place for four years or more. There are cases when, for seven years, the plant was pleased with the feathers of the onion. Experienced gardeners do not advise delaying planting, since over time the underground part grows greatly and the yield decreases.
Varieties of perennial onions
More than 200 varieties of perennial onions have taken root in the Russian climate. Every year more and more varieties appear due to the domestication of wild species. There is a list of the most popular and famous varieties. Gardeners prefer them because of their high yield and ease of care.
Onion
The leader in popularity among perennial species is onion. Externally, it is similar to the onion feathers - the feathers are hollow, dark green and long. There is no bulb, and the false bulb, which produces leaves, is not particularly used for food. The root system is strong and powerful and begins to push out feathers to grow immediately after the snow melts. In one place it produces a good harvest for 5-6 years in a row without any problems. The culture is propagated by dividing the bush and seeds.
There are several subspecies of onion, which differ in their economically valuable properties.
Japanese
Onions of this subspecies grow of medium thickness and have large leaves up to 60 cm in length. The Japanese subspecies taste hot and spicy and are characterized by average winter hardiness. The most common varieties of the Japanese subspecies of onion are:
- Harukioka;
- Saladny 35;
- Long Tokyo.
Russian
This subspecies includes medium-sized, highly branched, dark green leaves up to 30-40 cm long. They taste sharp and contain a lot of ascorbic acid. The foliage quickly becomes coarser, gaining mass, but by the third year it branches out to 40-50 shoots per bush. The Russian subspecies does not freeze even in the most extreme cold.
Popular varieties of this subspecies of onion:
- Maysky 7;
- Khibinsky;
- Gribovsky 21;
- April 12.
Chinese
The foliage of this subspecies grows very high - up to 130 cm, does not branch and only by 2-3 years gives about 3-5 branches. The greens are juicy and especially pungent, but have low winter hardiness. The inability to withstand severe frosts is the main reason that influences the slow spread of the Chinese subspecies in most of the country.
Slime
This type of perennial onion differs from its counterparts in having flat, wide, juicy feathers. The slime is not picky about the amount of light, but loves good watering. With proper nutrition, it produces a harvest in one bed for 5 years, with its roots going 20-25 cm into the soil. Tolerates winter well.
Juicy and tender slime leaves are often used to prepare marinades and as a seasoning for various dishes. Due to the abundance of useful substances, the plant is often used for medicinal and prophylactic purposes for stomach ulcers and anemia.
Common varieties:
- Leader;
- Charm;
- Green.
Multi-tiered
This species is rightfully considered the main early ripening among perennial onions. Already at the beginning of spring, they begin to cut the first green feathers of multi-tiered onions from the garden. As the onion grows, it forms 2-4 tiers of airy bulbs instead of inflorescences. It is with their help that the main reproduction of the species occurs, in addition to the division of the uterine bulb.
Multi-tiered onions do not require a rest period for growth, even in high frosts, so they are planted all year round. It actively bears fruit in one place for 7 years. All parts of the plant are suitable for consumption - feathers and aerial bulbs. The foliage is tender and does not become rough on the bush for a long time, so it is happily used for preparing salads, hot dishes and marinades.
Popular varieties of multi-tiered onions:
- Memory;
- Chelyabinsk;
- Likova.
fragrant onion
This type of perennial onion is known for its wide, large leaves, reaching up to 50 cm in length. The belted foliage has a delicate flavor with high vitamin C content and low fiber content. Greens retain their rich taste both in spring and autumn, without changing the beneficial composition. Fragrant onions have a good ability to resume growth after cutting off the feather, so they can please you with a harvest until the end of November.
In the first year of growth, this species forms a pair of shoots, each of which produces 4-6 leaves up to 30-35 cm long. In the second year of life, fragrant onions already form arrows with white flowers. The inflorescences are collected in a simple umbrella and exude the aroma of almonds.
One of the most popular varieties of fragrant perennial onions is Stargazer. It grows everywhere, regardless of the climatic conditions of the country. The variety is famous for its high leaf growth rate up to 60 cm. Feathers up to 1.5 cm wide have a weak semi-sharp garlic taste.
Schnitt
Small tubular leaves of Schnitt are distinguished by a mildly pungent taste and good performance during storage and transportation. The first foliage appears after the snow melts due to the good frost resistance of this variety of crop. A full harvest is harvested 2-3 times per season or pruned little by little as it grows. It performs well until the 3rd year of life in one bed, after which it loses productivity and requires updating of planting material and place of residence.
Due to the decorative nature of many varieties, Schnitt is often used as a design decoration for a site. Blooming onions look like a colorful carpet because of the spherical umbrellas on the flower-bearing arrows. The color palette of this crop ranges from soft pink to deep purple.
Schnitt varieties that are popular among gardeners and are characterized by good feather yield:
- Chemal;
- Honey plant;
- Bohemia;
- Vitamin snob;
- Velta.
Decorative varieties of onions that breeders bred to decorate flower beds and borders of the site:
- Curb;
- Elvy;
- Forescate;
- Moscow.
shallot
Shallots are popular among perennial crops due to their high nutritional and beneficial properties. Nicknamed “centytooth” due to the multi-buds of the bulbs, which perform well when lying down. One mother bulb can produce about 7 daughters, each of which grows up to 6 cm and weighs 50 g. Some varieties are capable of producing shares even during storage.
Shallot greens are not tall (up to 25 cm), but very tender and juicy, tubular in shape and dark green in color. Feathers grow quickly and luxuriantly, which makes it possible to collect an impressive bunch of feathers from one turnip already after 3 weeks after sowing.
Popular varieties of shallots among summer residents:
- Siberian dacha;
- Kuban yellow D-322;
- Belozerets 94;
- Sprint.
How to choose a landing site
Planting onions requires careful preparation. The location is selected taking into account the needs of the plant that will grow there for a long time. In terms of soil, the plant is not considered capricious. It can be planted even in acidic soil. To obtain a rich harvest, it is necessary to prepare the soil: add organic fertilizers that will make the depleted soil permeable and light. Alkaline fertilizers are added to acidic soil for planting.
Soils with clay and wetlands are definitely not suitable for growing. Although onions love moisture. The place chosen for planting must be level so that the seeds are not washed away by water. It is better to sow the seeds close to the trees, along the fence, so that the plant is in partial shade and does not receive bright sunlight. Onions grow well at a temperature of 18 degrees, but even at low temperatures they give a rich harvest.
Planting and replanting perennial onions
Despite the ease of care and the crop’s undemanding nature for the gardener’s attention, there is a system and rules for planting perennial onions. To avoid problems and reap a good harvest every year from the same place, it is necessary to properly prepare the soil and plant the plants correctly.
Site preparation
Agronomists involved in growing perennial onions believe that soil preparation should begin in the fall. The optimal parameters for soil readiness for planting crops are:
- without groundwater;
- light soil composition;
- slightly acidic or neutral soil – pH 6-7.
To achieve such a balanced indicator, the following procedures are carried out:
- thorough digging of the site;
- removal of weeds, the proximity of which is detrimental to perennial onions;
- application of phosphorus-potassium and organic fertilizers.
In the spring, before planting, it is necessary to apply nitrogen fertilizer, weed the beds and deeply loosen the soil to 15-20 cm.
When giving preference to a place for perennial onions, it is necessary to take into account that the area for the beds will be occupied by this crop for 5 years.
Planting perennial onions
There are practically no strict restrictions on the timing of planting onions - they are grown in autumn, summer and spring. Perennials are planted by seeds or by dividing the bush; the choice of method depends directly on the crop variety.
Propagation by seeds
Typically, the seeds of perennial onions are planted in the ground in the spring or before winter. This directly affects the speed of germination and further development.
Spring sowing
When sown in open ground, the sprouts sprout no earlier than 2 weeks after planting. Further development proceeds slowly, periodically requiring the attention of the gardener.
Experienced agronomists, when planting seeds of perennial onions, resort to the home seedling method to avoid a protracted period of germination in open ground. This procedure consists of several stages and begins in March:
- Treatment of perennial onion seeds : washing in potassium permanganate, soaking in water at room temperature for 24 hours, drying.
- Surface planting of seeds in seedling boxes.
- Growing seedlings at home for 2 months.
- Transplanting the finished seedlings into the beds on the site in May.
It is necessary to maintain the correct temperature in the room before germination - 20-22 degrees, after - 18-20 degrees.
Before transplanting perennial onion seedlings into open ground, the soil is loosened, drained and fertilized as necessary.
Pre-winter sowing for early greenery
To obtain a quick harvest of feathers, they resort to winter sowing in early spring. When the soil temperature drops to 3-4 degrees in the fall, densely sow the seeds of perennial onions. For effective cultivation of early feathers, the usual seed rate is increased by 20-25%.
With this planting in spring, seedlings appear 10-15 days earlier. This method is also convenient because low temperatures during feather growth in early spring do not allow the crop to bolt quickly. This allows the gardener to collect high-quality succulent feathers for a long time.
Vegetative propagation
Some types of onions are capable of propagation only by vegetative means. There are varieties of perennial onions that do not form a seed box or it is unsuitable for propagation. The vegetative method involves 2 methods of propagation: dividing the main rhizome and using the aerial upper part of the plant.
Root division
Typically, gardeners divide earthen bulbs in mid-spring or at the end of summer. To do this, take the rhizomes of only adult representatives of perennial onions. The bulbs are divided so that each planting material contains at least one mature root with a well-developed underground system. Planting occurs in beds according to a 20x70 cm pattern, in which the perennial onion bush is deepened 8-10 cm into the ground.
If the root system of the planting bush is weak, it is planted 4-5 cm into the soil.
Using bulbs
To propagate many varieties of perennial onions, bulbs, daughter and sighting bulbs are used. As the flower shoot grows, it gives birth to an inflorescence in which bulbs are formed. The development of the feather does not end here - the arrow from the bulb stretches further, forming another floor of air bulbs after 20-30 cm. Each of these aerial inflorescences can contain up to 30 bulbs.
It is considered optimal to plant such material in open ground immediately after the autumn harvest. To do this, before the onset of frost, plant the bulbs in the ground to a depth of 5-6 cm at a distance of 15-20 cm.
If it was not possible to plant the air bulbs immediately after collecting the arrows, then they need to be stored in a dry room with a negative temperature.
Greenhouse cultivation
Many gardeners, having adopted the method of growing perennial onions in China and Japan, plant perennial onions in greenhouses or on windowsills. To do this, when planting onions in furrows, they are additionally hilled to a height of 8-10 cm. This leads to whitening of the base of the plant and a delicate taste of the feather. When planting multi-tiered onions in such insulated conditions, their feathers grow more juicy and reach a height of 40-45 cm.
How to prepare for landing
Before planting the onion, the selected area is dug up, leveled, and beds are made, leaving 25 cm between them. Moisturize well. The seeds need to be soaked; for this, take one tablet of microfertilizers, which is diluted in one liter of water. You should not leave the seeds for a long time, otherwise they will produce too long sprouts.
Useful tips from professional gardeners:
Some plants are not friendly with each other; they affect the composition of the soil in which they grow. Some crops cannot grow in place of other plants. Onions are not recommended to be planted after carrots, garlic, onions, and cucumbers. In such soil many pathogens of onion diseases remain. Onions grow well after Chinese cabbage, lettuce, dill or radishes.
When growing onions from seeds, you should use a warm solution of potassium permanganate, in which you should keep the seeds for 20 minutes, then transfer them to warm water for a day. Then the seeds are thoroughly dried. Pre-soaking speeds up germination by about a week.
Growing onions from seeds
Onions are most often sown directly into the garden bed. Sometimes seedlings are also grown in the spring in order to quickly harvest the first harvest. Despite the fact that trumpet is a perennial plant, some gardeners prefer to grow it as an annual. In this case, a normal harvest can only be obtained through seedlings: after all, in the perennial version, the maximum yield is achieved only after 2–3 years.
How to collect onion seeds
Collecting onion seeds is easy. From the second year of life, it produces numerous arrows with peduncles, which are constantly broken off so as not to reduce the yield. These arrows on several bushes should be left. In mid-summer they will bloom, then seeds will appear in them. When they are almost ripe, that is, they acquire a black color, but still remain firmly in the inflorescences, the plants are pulled out and hung in bunches “upside down” in a dry room, placing any vessel under them or simply spreading out a sheet of paper.
When the seeds dry out, they will begin to fall out on their own. At this time they are very easy to remove. The seeds are dried for a few more days, spread out in a thin layer, and then poured into small paper bags for storage. The germination period of onion seeds is short: with proper storage (in a dry, dark place) a maximum of two years.
Growing onion seedlings
Seedling cultivation of spring onions is used in the case when the entire cycle from seeds to full harvesting with plant pulling is carried out in one season. In the perennial version, seedlings are not grown. The seeds are sown in April, the grown seedlings are planted in the garden at the beginning of summer, and in September the plants are completely dug up and used for food.
Sowing seeds for seedlings
To speed up the germination of seeds, they are soaked in water for a day. Sometimes they are pre-etched for 20–25 minutes in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. During the day, the water is changed several times, after which the seeds are slightly dried and sown in seedling boxes.
Button seeds look exactly like any other onion seeds.
The soil is a mixture of turf soil with humus (1:1) with the addition of two glasses of ash per bucket of the mixture. Seeds are sown to a depth of 1 cm in moistened grooves, but after covering with soil, a two-centimeter layer of clean sand is also poured on top. In glass-covered boxes at room temperature, prepared seeds germinate in 2 weeks or a little later.
Seedling care
Caring for onion seedlings is similar to this activity in the case of most vegetable plants. So, immediately after the emergence of seedlings, a sharp decrease in temperature is necessary: it is kept at 10–12 °C for a week, after which it is raised slightly. However, temperatures above 15 °C are destructive for onion seedlings, so growing them in a city apartment is very problematic. It is necessary to equip it with lighting: trampoline is a plant of long daylight hours.
Watering is needed infrequently and moderately: it is impossible to fill it with water until it becomes waterlogged. During the growing of seedlings, they are fed twice. The composition of the solution for fertilizing is 2 g of superphosphate and any potassium salt per 1 liter of water, the time of fertilizing is 7–10 days after emergence, and then another two weeks.
If the seedlings are dense, they must be thinned out. This is done in the phase of the first true leaf, at this moment a distance of about 3 cm is left between the plants. Before planting in the garden, a week before, the batun seedlings are hardened off. It is planted in the garden bed at the beginning of summer, preparing holes at distances of about 12 cm from each other.
Onion seedlings are very tender, they are not very easy to grow, so they do this relatively infrequently
Since batun seedlings need coolness, this method of growing can be recommended only if you have an unheated greenhouse or greenhouse, where you can maintain a temperature of 10–15 ° C in April-May: at home, the labor required is too great. Therefore, even for annual cultivation, it is worth preparing seedlings in a separate bed, covering it in advance with film to warm the ground. Most varieties of onions will still have time to produce a good harvest of feathers in this situation.
Sowing seeds in the ground
Sowing seeds directly into the ground is the main method of seed propagation of batun. If you sow them under film in early spring, a normal harvest can be harvested in August. Another option is sowing in June-July (for the middle zone). In this case, the plants will have time to strengthen in the year of sowing, and cutting the leaves will be possible only the next year. Pre-winter sowing is also used, but it should be denser, since many seeds will disappear over the winter.
Recent Entries
Lilac perennials that are beautiful, compact and do not crowd out other plants Why when buying seedlings you should not take the sellers’ word for it and how to determine the age of the plant using 3 signs Tomato seedlings have turned purple or whitish: why the color has changed and how to save the plants
It should be noted that spring onions do not like acidic soils and peat bogs. Sandy loam and loam are best suited for it, but it is important that the area is well lit. Preparing the bed is the same as for most vegetables: preliminary digging with the addition of regular doses of organic and mineral fertilizers. Per 1 m2 this is a bucket of humus, a glass of ash and 10–15 g of superphosphate, potassium chloride and any nitrate.
Seeds are prepared as for growing seedlings. They are sown in grooves spilled with water to a depth of about 2.5 cm, the distance between the rows is about 30 cm. If the soil has already warmed up to at least 5 ° C, the seeds will definitely germinate, but this can be extended over time: from 8 to 20 days. It is advisable to mulch the bed immediately after sowing with a thin layer of humus. When it is clear how many seeds have sprouted, the seedlings are thinned out, leaving about 10 cm between plants.
Video: spring sowing of onions
Sowing seeds
Autumn planting of seeds
How to plant onion? Most often, seeds are sown in spring or summer. But the seeds overwinter well, so they can be planted in the fall to get a harvest of juicy green onions in early spring. Peculiarities of crops, timing of planting onions and harvesting time depend on the type of seed:
- Late ripening. Frost-resistant, ideal for open ground. The feathers are sharp and appear in May. Example, Mayskiy variety.
- Mid-season. They belong to the semi-sharp varieties. They tolerate frosts well and are pleased with their feathers in May. For example, varieties Baia Verde, Russian Winter and others.
- Early ripening. Suitable for protected and open ground. Onion feathers ripen already in April and are semi-sharp. Example, varieties Salatny-35, Aprilsky, Serezha.
Domestic varieties of perennial onion batun are ideal for planting before winter; their frost resistance allows them to withstand temperatures down to -45°C. These varieties are not susceptible to diseases.
Don't miss important moments
Regardless of when to plant spring onions, spring or fall, it is important to consider several other factors. The plant needs constant moisture. With its deficiency, the feathers begin to coarse, acquiring a bitter taste. In addition, flower stalks appear on the crop quite quickly. As a result, the leaves lose their nutritional properties.
There is another extreme. With frequent watering of the beds or an abundance of rain, a crust forms on the surface of the soil. It prevents the flow of oxygen to the root system. As a result, the plant begins to weaken and may even die. Therefore, experienced gardeners weed the beds both after rain and after watering.
If you do not plan to collect seeds, it is advisable to remove the arrows immediately after they appear.
As you know, spring onions reproduce not only with the help of seeds. Therefore, in the fall, lush bushes are chosen to divide them into several parts. The sprouts are planted in a new bed at a distance of 10 cm. Usually the crop has time to take root before the onset of cold weather.
In the last ten days of October they begin to prepare onions for winter. To do this, cover the area with the plant:
- a layer of sawdust;
- old bags;
- spruce branches;
- straw.
To keep the artificial protection from frost, it is pressed down with boards. Also, don't forget about rodents. Old metal buckets that have no bottom will help protect crops from mice. They are installed on top of onion bushes, protecting access to “hungry” pests. Only those who apply the advice of experienced gardeners harvest abundant harvests of lush greenery every year.
An amazing crop - onion - is grown today almost throughout Europe. Some people like to do this in their garden beds using seeds. Others are engaged in seedlings to speed up the maturation of the crop. City dwellers grow it in their apartments or on their balconies. The main thing is that there is always tasty, juicy and healthy greens on the table.
Onion care
It is not difficult to care for the trampoline. Three rules must be followed:
- Watering. It is necessary to water the beds twice a week. In very hot weather, watering should be done every other day. If there is not enough moisture, the onion will change color and become bluish-white. If there is excess liquid, the color will turn pale green.
- Weeding. Be sure to weed the beds; you won’t get a good harvest with weeds.
- Loosening. It is necessary that the roots of the bulbs breathe, accelerating the growth of the plant. Loosening of the soil is carried out after weeding. The hoe must be used carefully; it can easily damage the roots.
How to use spring onions as fertilizer
There are plants, both garden and wild, that perfectly perform the function of fertilizers: these are many legumes, oats, vetch, etc. They are called green manure: before flowering, the crops of these crops are mowed and plowed into the ground, significantly increasing its fertility.
Onion plants are not included in the number of green manures, but after the trumpet has served its life, many gardeners do not pull out the plants, but dig up the bed along with them. Those nutrients that the onion accumulated during its growth remain in the soil. Moreover, this technique also heals the soil, since any onion plants release a huge amount of phytoncides, killing pathogenic microbes around them.
Fertilizer application
To obtain a high-quality harvest, fertilizing onions is mandatory. The type of fertilizer is selected based on the growth period. During the growing season, the plant consumes active substances from the soil. If the soil was well fertilized before planting, fertilizers begin to be applied for the next season.
In early spring, organic fertilizers are applied (infusion of bird droppings or mullein). The following fertilizers are mineral. Often other fertilizers include ammonium nitrate 50. Liquid fertilizers are applied in the fall, when the crop has already been harvested. Superphosphate and potassium chloride are added to nitrate.
Rules of care
Caring for perennial crops is not difficult. That is why gardeners give them preference. However, there are some nuances.
- It is necessary to remove greens in a timely manner.
- After planting the seeds, mulching is carried out with humus, peat, compost and sawdust.
- Plants need systematic feeding from the second year of cultivation. In the spring, fertilizers based on potassium, nitrogen and phosphorus are applied. In autumn, the soil is not enriched. You will have to fertilize the beds again in early spring.
- Weeds pose a threat to young perennial plants. Therefore, the soil near the plants should be loosened regularly.
- You need to moisten the soil in the evening.
- It is necessary to carry out preventive treatments against pests and diseases.
Harvest
The first harvest can be harvested approximately a month after planting. After two months, the collection of onion greens is repeated, cutting them off completely. In the second year, the onions ripen even faster. It is believed that in the northern regions, when planting onions before winter in the first year, it is not advisable to cut off young leaves. It is necessary that the root system is reliably strengthened in order to easily endure harsh winters. Every year, onions begin to produce less yield, so it is necessary to rejuvenate the plantings annually, removing three-year-old plants that only have 5-7 arrows.
Harvest and storage
Batun is distinguished by early germination and excellent keeping quality. The harvest is harvested within three weeks after the first greenery appears. After another six weeks, the culture again produces succulent feathers.
Growing spring onions is only advisable for producing greens. The bulbs themselves are rarely used.
Reference. The faster you cut off the first feathers, the sooner the next ones will appear.
The baton is torn off or cut off carefully at a height of about 5 cm from the ground. The bulb is not pulled out so as not to damage the root system. Feathers are packaged in cling film or boxes and sent to the refrigerator.
Pests and diseases of batun
Like any plant, onions are susceptible to pests and diseases. Fungal diseases, onion fly and onion moth often affect onion. With proper cultivation and preventive measures, you can avoid the occurrence of diseases and encounters with pests. Do not allow the beds to overflow. They must not be overgrown with weeds; it is in the excess grass that pests accumulate.
The main diseases of onion include:
- Aspergillosis.
- Fusarium.
- Smut.
- Mosaic.
- Cervical rot.
- Downy mildew.
Possible pests of perennial onion:
- Onion hoverfly. The larvae of this pest penetrate the bulb and the onion rots.
- Secretive proboscis beetle. He trims the onion feather, lays the larva inside, and it eats away the soft tissue.
- Root mite. Causes vegetable rotting by gnawing through the bottom of the bulb.
- Stem nematode. Worms that damage bulbs and leaves.
- Medvedka. Most often it affects young plants, gnawing roots and stems.
- Tobacco onion thrips. Silvery spots form on the leaves, and black dots appear on the feathers, these are pest excrement.
Growing onions indoors
This plant has virtually no dormant period, which allows it to be grown year-round. It is possible both in greenhouses and, if necessary, at home. Although, of course, temperature restrictions make this option not very simple. On the balcony you can harvest greenery from April to October. But the window sill should be cool, and then for 1-2 years the onions will produce crops all year round.
In warm weather, the plant will be pampered, and the harvest will be meager and less juicy.
Seed preparation is carried out in the same way as for a vegetable garden. Fertile, loose soil is poured into any deep boxes or pots and the seeds are sown to a depth of about 1.5 cm. Water well and cover the crops with glass. After emergence, the main thing is light and coolness. The ideal option after a week of cold (10–12 °C) is a daytime temperature in the range of 18–20 °C, and a night temperature several degrees lower. In addition to sunlight in the autumn-spring period, illumination with phytolamps must be added.
At home, it is easy to monitor the soil moisture, so it never gets too dry. For irrigation, use settled water at room temperature. To prevent accidental waterlogging, be sure to place a drainage layer (small pebbles, sand) in the box or simply make holes in the bottom. Air humidity is also important: the optimal value is about 75%.
At home, any convenient container can be used for growing batun.
Every two weeks the batun is fed with weak solutions of complete mineral fertilizers (according to the instructions, but less is better than more). From time to time it is useful to use infusions of any herbs for this purpose. When grown at home, batun leaves are usually not cut off all at once, but selectively, as needed.
Is it possible to sow spring onions before winter?
This onion variety is frost-resistant and can be planted before winter. It belongs to those vegetable crops that, when sown in late autumn, grow stronger than when planted in spring. Like every perennial crop, onions need stratification for good germination.
Not all varieties of crops are suitable for winter planting, but only those that can withstand even a snowless winter. These varieties include:
Onions are grown in one place for several years. If you plant it in the last month of autumn, then in March you will be able to enjoy the sweet, fragrant feathers of the vitamin plant.
What to do with annual onions before wintering
With the annual method of growing onions, sowing is done in early spring, and harvesting is done in August or autumn. At the same time, the false bulb is also dug out. If there is no time for this in the fall, complete cleaning is done in the spring.
If the trumpet is grown as an annual crop, the bulbs are selected after autumn pruning. After this, they are dried and stored.
Important! Harvesting can be done once or twice. At the third stage, the bulbs are dug up.
When to plant onion seeds
Onion can be sowed at least three times a year, but its seeds lose their ability to germinate during storage, so sowing before winter is the best option for this plant.
It can also be planted in any spring-summer month and get a good harvest of vitamin-rich greens. For earlier shoots, planting is organized in February; the last sowing date should be no later than July-August.
Basically, trampoline onions are planted with seeds for seedlings - this is the most reliable way to get early greens. In this case, sowing begins in February and is planted in open ground, depending on the climatic conditions of the region.
Planting spring onions with seeds before winter begins in the last autumn month.
Is it possible to sow vegetables in the fall, when is it better?
Onions are suitable for planting before winter due to their frost-resistant properties .
The plant can withstand frosts down to -10°C. Sowing seeds is carried out at least 3 times a year in autumn, summer or spring. The gardener chooses the planting time independently, based on personal preferences and the timing of the harvest. Important ! Spring onions are usually sown before winter in early or mid-November. The air temperature should be at least +5-+6°C. We should not forget about the recommendations of the seed manufacturer.
When to plant spring onions before winter
When planting batun before winter, it must be taken into account that early varieties sprout quickly, but their feathers also quickly become coarse, fibrous and unsuitable for food.
Late varieties are highly productive; they produce fresh, juicy stems within 5 months.
Planting onions in the fall before winter begins no earlier than November, when the top layer of soil survives the first frost. The air temperature should be at least 5-6 degrees.
Selecting a landing site
This culture does not like direct exposure to the sun; a shaded place is more suitable for it. The plant sap well under the cover of trees or hedges.
A rich harvest of onions will be on the soil where the predecessors were:
Planting after the following crops is undesirable:
The most suitable land for planting spring onions is in lowlands where there are no shallow deposits of underwater water. It is not recommended to plant on slopes and hillocks to prevent the soil from being washed away by water during precipitation.
Land preparation
The soil is disinfected and fertilized with organic fertilizers a month before planting.
A good harvest directly depends on the composition of the soil. She must be:
- loamy, sandy loam;
- slightly acidic;
- fertilized, fertile;
- with moderate humidity.
The soil should not be allowed to dry out - arrows are intensively formed in the bow on dry soil.
If the soil is highly acidic, it must be neutralized. To do this, six months before sowing the following is added to it:
- wood ash;
- lime;
- dolomite flour.
Since the crop will grow in one place for several years, it is necessary to fertilize the soil well in advance. The following is added to the soil 2-3 months before planting:
- humus;
- mineral and organic fertilizers;
- ammonium nitrate.
The soil should be well saturated with fertilizers; after sowing, the soil is no longer fed so intensively.
Seed preparation
Onion seeds need to be calibrated. To do this, they are kept for half an hour in a saline solution of 1:10. Poor quality seeds float to the surface.
Seeds that have settled to the bottom are processed as follows:
- Rinse.
- Soak for disinfection in a manganese solution for 20-30 minutes.
- Soak for 7-8 hours in a growth stimulator solution.
When updating the bed, you can dry the collected seeds, process them and leave them for the next sowing.
Sowing onions before winter
When planting, a large number of seeds are sown, taking into account the fact that some of them may not germinate.
Recommendations for planting onion seeds before winter:
- the best time to plant Tatarka is after the first slight frost, at the end of November;
- choose loamy soil for planting;
- Before sowing, the land is fertilized - superphosphate, humus, and potassium salts are added;
- loosen the ground, remove weeds;
- the interval between grooves should be 20-22 cm;
- The planting hole is 2 cm deep, between the holes a space of up to 4 cm is required.
Sowing
The row spacing should be at least 20-22 cm. The depth of the planting hole should be approximately 2 cm. The interval between holes is maintained at 4 cm. After planting, the soil is mulched. Fallen leaves, vegetable tops or peat are used as mulch.
Regardless of the method and timing of planting, the soil for growing should be:
- Fertile;
- Loose;
- Not sour.
Give preference to light loamy and sandy loam soils. It is not recommended to plant spring onions on drying out grasslands and sandy soils, since as a result of moisture deficiency the crop will produce abundant shoots.
REFERENCE: The crop is planted in the beds after cabbage, tomatoes, green manure, beans, peas, and beans. Do not plant after garlic, onions, carrots.
Onion is a fairly unpretentious crop. However, it is still worth following agrotechnical recommendations for cultivation in order to get a good harvest of healthy greens even on a small plot of land.
After a long winter, adults and children need to replenish their vitamin reserves. Young spring onions, which were planted before winter, will help cope with vitamin deficiency. Tatarka or fennel onions are easy to grow at home on a windowsill, balcony, or in a greenhouse. It is enough to learn how to prepare planting material, how to plant it correctly and care for plants, and what difficulties may arise.
Content:
Care after landing
Onion is a moisture-loving crop, so the soil should be moistened regularly.
As soon as the first feathers appear, the onion must:
- thin out the plant;
- treat with a growth stimulator;
- regularly, especially after rains, weed and loosen the soil;
- water moderately every other day;
- cut off onion feathers as soon as they grow more than 15 cm.
Since this is a perennial crop, it is necessary to remove old plants and plant new ones every year. Renewal is necessary to increase productivity.
Despite the fact that Tatarka retains its productivity for 10 years, it is recommended to renew the beds every 5 years.
The first year after planting, onions do not require intensive feeding; they can only be lightly sprinkled with ash.
Characteristics of perennial onions, advantages and disadvantages
Perennial onions have many varieties, which sometimes do not resemble each other at all. Despite all the variety of varieties, perennial onions have a number of common features that can be attributed to the advantages or disadvantages of the plant.
Advantages:
- longevity on one bed - sowing once every 3-5 years;
- contains a large number of useful microelements and vitamins;
- good frost tolerance (some species can withstand temperatures down to -40° degrees);
- high productivity;
- ease of soil preparation;
- high immunity to many diseases;
- ability to develop under snow cover;
- harvesting the first crop after the snow melts;
- pleasant spice and aroma of many varieties;
- decorativeness of flowering varieties.
Flaws:
- using only the green top part of the plant, as opposed to annual onion bulbs;
- mandatory systematic weeding to avoid overgrowing the beds with weeds.
Gardeners are happy to grow perennial onions, not considering their shortcomings to be critical. It does not require frequent planting and scrupulous care, and gradual harvesting occurs almost from snow melting until frost. Thanks to the decorative properties of many species, planting this crop becomes not only a source of lush greenery throughout the year, but also an excellent decoration for the site.
Growing and caring for batun onions.
Caring for onions is very simple:
- timely loosening,
- fertilization and fertilizing with organic fertilizers,
- correct watering - with a lack of moisture, green feathers become bluish-white, the tips of the feathers bend, with excess moisture, green feathers become pale green. Onions need to be watered once a week at the rate of 10 liters of water per 1 m² of bed.
- weeding,
- pest protection,
- preparation for winter.
Batun can be propagated not only by seeds, but also by dividing perennial bushes.
How to care for it in open ground, do you need to cut it?
Many gardeners claim that spring onions are capable of developing independently and well without human attention, watering, fertilizing, or thinning.
But this opinion is wrong. Any crop needs care and proper care. To please the onion with fresh, juicy feathers, it is enough to take into account the basic tips and recommendations, they are as follows:
- Watering . It is better to arrange water procedures abundantly and regularly. This way the stems and feathers will acquire tenderness, crunchiness and excellent taste. Excessive dryness of the soil will “delight” the vegetable grower with coarse and too bitter onions.
- Loosening . If a dry and strong crust has formed on the soil, it is necessary to loosen the top layer to a depth of 1-2 cm. This will improve the flow of air to the root system and saturate the roots with the necessary nutrients.
- Thinning . This activity should be carried out when onions are grown as a perennial crop. After the first 3-4 true feathers appear, thin out the plants. Leave a distance between them of 4-5 cm.
- Feeding . An excellent option would be manure and mineral fertilizers. The latter include ammonium nitrate (50 g per 1 sq. m), sodium chloride (20 g per 1 sq. m), superphosphate (30 g per 1 sq. m). Feed the bushes 3-4 times throughout the growing season. The main emphasis should be placed on the thinning stage.
- Trimming . When asked whether to trim onions, the answer is yes. Perform when the plant is 20 cm long. Leave 5-7 cm at the base to avoid loss of harvest quality. If the seeds are not needed, then it is better to remove the arrows with flowers. This will allow you to achieve more lush greens. Otherwise, the arrow will take away all the important vitamins and components for the formation of the flower and seeds.
Read about growing and caring for spring onions in open ground here.
Additional care measures
Additionally, you can treat the sprouts with a growth stimulator. The drugs will help young plants grow stronger, gain strength, and produce more strong and juicy feathers.
Planting spring onions before winter is easy and simple if you know some simple techniques. Growing a crop will become an exciting activity, and after a while you will have the opportunity to enjoy fresh, crispy feathers. Taking into account recommendations and advice will help to correctly carry out agrotechnical measures and simplify the growing process.
Sources used:
- https://agrognom.ru/vegetables/bow/kogda-seyat-luk-batun-pod-zimu.html
- https://proroslo.ru/lukovye/luk-batun/posadka-luka-batuna-osenyu-semenami.html
- https://nasotkah.com/ovoshhi/luk/vidi/batun/posadka-pod-zimu.html