When and how to plant tulips in 2022: in spring, autumn, for forcing by March 8

There are probably no summer cottages where tulips do not bloom in the spring. An exquisite and at the same time unpretentious flower decorates flower beds and paths. In this article we will tell you when to plant tulips in open ground in the fall and how to do it correctly.

The characteristics and timing of planting tulips in autumn are determined by the climatic characteristics of the region. When overwintering the bulbs on the site, the plants develop a strong root system. Also, for high-quality germination, tulips require a period of cooling of the planting material. At the same time, substances are formed in the bulbs that stimulate active plant growth.

Planting tulips in 2022 according to the lunar calendar

In the calendar you can find dates for planting tulip bulbs not only before winter, but also for spring planting, as well as for forcing them by certain dates.

Month	Favorable days	Unfavorable days
January	3, 6, 7, 10, 11, 12, 16, 17, 21, 22, 25, 26, 30, 31	1, 2, 4, 5, 18, 19
February	3, 4, 7, 8, 9,12, 13, 14, 17, 18,21, 22, 23, 26, 27	1, 2, 16,28
March	3, 6, 7, 8, 11, 12, 13, 16, 17, 21, 22, 25, 26, 29, 30, 31	1, 2, 18, 27, 28
April	3, 4, 12, 13, 14, 17, 18, 21, 22, 26, 27	1, 16, 23, 24, 25, 29, 30
May	1, 2, 3, 10, 11, 12, 14, 15, 19, 23, 24, 27, 28	16, 21, 22, 29, 30, 31
September	5, 6, 9, 13, 14, 15, 18, 20, 23, 24, 27, 28, 29	7, 8, 10, 25, 26
October	2, 3, 7, 8, 11, 12, 13,14,15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 26, 27, 30	4, 5, 6, 9, 24, 25
November	3, 4, 7, 9, 12, 13, 14, 17, 18, 19, 22, 26, 27, 30	1, 2, 8, 23, 24, 28, 29
December	1, 2, 5, 6, 9, 10, 11, 14, 15, 19, 20, 24, 27, 28, 29	8, 22, 23, 26, 28

Caring for tulips after planting

Tulips, like other garden plants, require timely care and attention. A plant that is planted in the fall must be provided with favorable conditions and protection from rodents.

Autumn care

Caring for tulips in the fall is simple. Watering is carried out only in dry autumn once every 10 days. In the autumn-winter period, tulips have a time of rest, and you should not touch them again. It will be enough to add ammonium nitrate and cover them for the winter with mulch or a breathable covering material. Shelter is necessary not only to protect against frost, but will also prevent cracking of the ground caused by sudden changes in temperature. Mice and other rodents are the main enemy of tulip bulbs. To prevent damage from small pests, specimens for planting can be treated with hot pepper or Vishnevsky ointment.

IMPORTANT

In order to save tulips from rodents, they can be planted closer to the cold weather.

If you follow these simple rules of care, the flowers will delight you with their friendly, beautiful blooms immediately with the onset of warm days.

Winter care

Tulips planted in flower pots need winter care. Care consists of timely watering, loosening the soil and fertilizing.

When to plant in different regions

In open ground, tulip bulbs are planted in different regions at different times. Planting too early may cause the bulbs to sprout in warm fall weather. Then the cold weather will come, and the green seedlings will freeze. The bulb may also die. Therefore, you need to plant them at the optimal time, a month before the main cold weather sets in and the ground freezes.

In the south , even in November there are warm days with temperatures of +12-15°C. Here they begin planting bulbs in the second half of October. Even if a single sprout appears above the ground, they can be covered with mown grass or lutrasil.

Middle zone and Moscow region . Tulips are planted in these regions from mid-September until the first days of October. Be sure to make a light shelter from spruce branches or straw.

Siberia, Ural, Far East, North-Western region . The beginning of planting tulips here is usually dated to the beginning of September. Already in October the ground here freezes several centimeters.

Optimal time for planting

Since the life cycles of wild and cultivated tulips generally coincide, the optimal time for planting is still autumn. Bulbs planted before frost grow roots in a short time, and then go into suspended animation as the weather gets colder. In the spring, stems begin to emerge right from under the snow, which quickly form the first buds. When the tulips finish flowering, the bulbs are dug up and sent to a dark, cool place until the fall, and then planted again.

The most preferable time for planting tulips is mid-September - late October. More precisely, the time is determined for each region separately depending on weather and climatic conditions. For example, in central Russia, bulbs are usually planted on the twentieth of September, in the North Caucasus - in October. Of course, the timing of planting can also be influenced by purely weather factors, because sometimes winter comes earlier and sometimes later.

One of the main weather indicators by which you can determine the optimal time for planting is soil temperature:

• You can start planting from the moment the soil cools down to +7+9 degrees (measurements are taken at a depth of about 10 cm);
• if you plant the bulbs in warmer soil, sprouts will quickly emerge from them, which will immediately die during the first frost, which will greatly weaken the plant from the very beginning and possibly even lead to its death;
• by being late with planting and immersing the bulbs in colder soil, you will not give them the opportunity to take root normally; frosts will find the roots too weak and unformed, which ultimately also threatens underdevelopment and even death of the plants.

Ideally, planted bulbs should have about 20-30 days to take root properly before winter. To do this, they require moderate humidity and a soil temperature in the upper layers of about +7 degrees. If you are still late with planting, or frosts arrive earlier than expected, you can save the bulbs from freezing by covering the flowerbed with dry leaves or spruce branches.

Preparing bulbs for planting in the ground

Before planting the bulb in the ground or in a pot for forcing, it must be processed.

• Potassium permanganate - the solution should be a rich pink color. Exposure time – 1 hour.
• With the drug Maxim - dilute according to the instructions and leave for half an hour.
• Fitosporin - make a solution the color of strong tea and keep the bulbs in it for about an hour, maybe more, this will not harm the bulbs at all.

In addition, when preparing for planting, the bulbs are divided by size. Can be divided into three groups: large (up to 5 cm), medium (up to 3 cm) and small. Each group is planted separately.

Why are tulips dug up?

A distinctive feature of the culture is that old bulbs are replaced with new ones (replacement ones), in which leaves and a flower bud are immediately laid. Several daughter bulbs are formed - the number depends on the size of the mother bulb and the characteristics of the variety. After flowering is completed, the bulbs are removed from the ground and stored until autumn or spring planting. Why do they do this:

• you can sort through the planting material and select healthy, strong specimens, and discard sick and damaged ones;
• in regions with very cold winters, digging is necessary to preserve the bulbs;
• bulbs left in the ground gradually go deeper and are difficult for them to germinate;
• for site preparation, soil cultivation.

Dig out tulips after the leaves turn completely yellow and the covering scales turn light brown.
If the tip of the stem easily wraps around your finger, you can dig it up. This is usually done in the 2nd-3rd decade of June. Interesting!
How to plant tulip bulbs for forcing Early dug bulbs do not have time to ripen, the integumentary scales are not fully formed, which affects the quality of storage and future flowering. If you start the procedure when the stems have already fallen off, then the bulbs are difficult to find, so part of the planting material is lost or damaged by the tool.

Related article:

How to plant tulip bulbs for forcing

Preparing the soil for planting tulips

Tulips do not grow well in heavy loams and acidic soils. On such soils, 2 kg of dolomite flour is added per 10 sq.m. To improve the composition of the soil before digging, add 1 square meter. m. half a bucket of compost, humus and sand and a half-liter jar of ash. Fresh manure is not applied when planting bulbs.

The area is dug up, weed roots are removed and the surface is leveled with a rake. This work can be done immediately before planting the bulbs.

Fertilizer for tulips during planting, during the growing season and after flowering

Crops need varied but light feeding. Lack and excess of substances are equally destructive for plants. What to feed:

• Potassium. For the formation of bulbs, giving health and resistance to low temperatures.
• Phosphorus. Needed by roots, promotes vegetation.
• Nitrogen. Required in very small quantities. If there is an excess, the flowers become sick; if there is a deficiency, they do not produce buds or form new bulbs.
• Manganese. Accelerates photosynthesis.
• Iron, molybdenum. Helps absorb nitrogen and phosphorus.
• Calcium. Stimulates the flowering process.
• Zinc. Increases resistance to temperature fluctuations
• Bor. Provides abundant flowering and the formation of new strong bulbs.

Rules for applying fertilizing:

1. The first fertilizing is applied immediately after the snow melts. For 1 m2 of soil you need: 20 g of ammonium nitrate, a mixture of 200 g of ash and 100 g of superphosphate (diluted in 10 liters of water).
2. The second feeding is performed during forcing. If there has been little snow and the soil is dry, water the soil well, loosen between the plants and feed the sprouts. Useful: 30 g of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, diluted in 10 liters of water. Pour well with 1 tbsp. ash in a bucket of water - pour 1 tbsp onto each stem. mixtures.
3. The third main feeding is carried out when the buds appear. Compositions based on potassium and phosphorus, ammonium nitrate are used. It is good to water the plants with a solution of 10 mg of boric acid and 100 ml of water. If the stems are thin, 300 mg of zinc sulfate diluted in 1 liter of water will help.

Advice! Boric acid and zinc sulfate are used not only for root feeding, but also for spraying leaves.

Additional fertilizing is carried out during the flowering period. The composition is as follows: 15 g of potassium nitrate and 30 g of superphosphate per 1 m2 of soil. Potassium compounds are added 10 days before flowering and 12 days after the end of the flowering period - this will help the active formation of the bulb.

Planting tulips in autumn

Two planting methods are used: conventional, in furrows or in special baskets or mesh boxes.

First way

With the usual method, grooves are made on the surface of the soil. Their depth depends on the diameter of the bulb and should be at least twice as large, i.e. if a bulb with a diameter of 5 cm is planted, then the depth of the groove should be 10-12 cm.

The bulbs are laid out in the recesses without effort; there is no need to press them forcefully into the soil. In this case, the root primordia may be damaged. After planting, the furrows are covered with earth. There is no need to water the area.

Second way

To plant in baskets, you need to dig holes with a diameter equal to the diameter of the basket. Gardening stores sell special baskets and containers for planting bulbs, but you can take a regular mesh fruit box.

All planting work is carried out at home or under a canopy at a table, which is very convenient. It will also be convenient in the summer when it’s time to dig up the bulbs. The baskets are simply dug up along with the bulbs and the soil is shaken off.

Before placing the bulbs in the baskets, you need to line the bottom with newspaper. To ensure that the newspaper lies tightly and evenly in the basket, it is sprayed with a spray bottle. Now a small layer of earth no more than 2 cm is poured onto the bottom and the bulbs are laid out so that there is a distance of at least 10 cm between them. Smaller ones can be planted thicker - about 5-8 cm. Cover everything with soil and lightly press it down.

Depending on the size of the bulbs, they dig holes of the appropriate depth: for large ones about 15 cm, for medium ones - 8 cm and for small ones up to 3 cm. Place a basket there. Turning slightly from side to side so that it fits as tightly as possible. Now you just need to sprinkle the planting site with soil and mark it with pegs so as not to accidentally damage the basket. Before frost, insulate the bed.

Do I need to dig up the bulbs after they have flowered?

Tulips need to be dug up annually. There are several reasons for this.

1. When digging, you can notice diseased bulbs, which are immediately separated and processed.
2. The mother bulb produces several daughter bulbs. If they are left in the ground until the next season, they will not have the opportunity to develop normally. This is especially true if the variety is valuable and you want to propagate it as quickly as possible.
3. If you don’t dig up tulips for several years, the flowers become noticeably smaller.

However, if a simple, unremarkable variety grows in the garden, then you don’t have to dig it up for 2-3 years. With healthy bulbs, such a multi-nest bush will give an interesting effect of a blooming bouquet right in the garden bed. True, the buds will be of different sizes.

How to plant tulips in autumn in open ground

Lawns and flower beds are picturesquely decorated with beautiful flowers in spring. But when choosing a planting site, you must take into account that tulips grow best in illuminated areas, protected from drafts.

Selecting soil and planting flowers

For the full development of plants, a layer of fertile soil of at least 35-40 cm is required. Therefore, the soil is specially fertilized during the autumn preparation of the site. Experienced gardeners recommend combining digging the soil and applying fertilizing. You can improve the quality of the soil using both organic fertilizers (humus, wood ash) and inorganic ones.

Sandy soils dry out quickly and have poor nutritional composition. Frequent watering and regular fertilization are optimal conditions for good tulip growth. Based on per square meter of area take:

• 150-200 g wood ash,
• two buckets of compost,
• 25 g ammonium nitrate,
• 30 g potassium sulfate,
• 40-50 g of superphosphate.

You can increase the nutritional value and water permeability of heavy clay soils by adding river sand, manure, and peat (about two buckets per square meter of land area). Only rotted manure can be used, otherwise fresh organic matter can cause burns to the root system and lead to the development of fungal diseases.

Land with an acidity level pH = 6.5-7.8 is suitable for growing tulips. When adding peat, you must take into account its high acidity (pH = 2.5-3.0) and add chalk/lime flour/wood ash to the soil. When liming, the powder is evenly scattered over the surface of the soil before digging.

Planting stages

1. The area is thoroughly cleared of weeds and dug up. Grooves are marked and watered with a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate to prevent fungal diseases.
2. Holes 8-12 cm deep are dug at a distance of approximately 10-15 cm in a row. Small bulbs are planted more densely. Row spacing is made 20-30 cm wide. On light soils, the bulbs are buried more, and on heavy soils less.
3. In areas where water can stagnate, a drainage layer (river sand, expanded clay, pebbles) 1-2 cm thick is made in the holes. A layer of nutrient mixture is poured on top. The bulbs are dusted with wood ash, placed in the ground and pressed lightly so that air pockets do not form under them, then watered.
4. If the seed is not uniform, then you can place a large onion and several small ones (around the large onion) in the center of the hole.

5. All holes are sprinkled with soil, which is carefully leveled to form a flat surface. Otherwise, water will accumulate in the recesses and the seed may rot. Do they need to be watered? If dry weather sets in in the fall, it is advisable to moisten the area after 5-7 days. If you skip watering, the root system of the bulbs will not form.

Interesting flower beds can be created by planting tulips according to varietal characteristics. On average, up to 50 bulbs are planted per square meter of land. It is important to take into account the periods of bud blooming.

Video lesson

A useful and visual video from the “Newspaper Economy” channel about how and when to plant tulips in the fall.

How to cover the plantings

When planting tulips in the fall, it is recommended to cover them with a layer of peat/rotted compost (up to 4 cm thick) in regions with severe frosts. In the spring, the mulch is not removed. Thanks to this, the top layer of soil will remain loose and will allow water to pass well to the bulbs. Mulch also prevents weed growth.

In regions with severe frosts, straw is used as shelter. There is no need to rush into laying the straw. Plantings are covered when a constant negative temperature has established and the ground freezes below 5-7 cm. In spring, it is important to remove the straw layer in time, otherwise the sprouts will rot in warm, humid weather.

Sometimes gardeners plant tulips before winter (early December). But it is especially important to cover the area with dry leaves or spruce branches. If the winter has little snow, then snow is collected from the entire area and covered with tulip plantings.

Tulips are one of the first spring flowers, delighting summer residents with their elegant buds. The variety of varieties allows you to create original flowering plantings that will decorate your summer cottage for a long time. Unpretentious flowers require a little attention, and in this article we looked at when to plant tulips in the fall and how to do it correctly. Compliance with the rules for storing and planting planting material will be the key to beautiful and early flowering of flowers.

Elena Chursinova A practical gardener with twenty years of experience. I prefer organic farming and lazy gardening. ...

Planting tulips in spring

Although planting in the fall is the preferred option, it is quite possible to plant tulip bulbs in the spring. To do this, you need to fulfill a number of conditions.

1. The soil at a depth of 10 cm should not be below +9°C. Bulbs cannot be planted in very cold soil. With a sudden change in conditions, the bulb may become stressed and then the shoots may not be expected.
2. Before planting, the bulb should be cooled by wrapping it in a bag and placing it on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator for at least a week.
3. For cold regions, planting in open ground is more difficult. First you need to plant the onion in a pot so that it germinates at least a little. It is advisable to keep the pot in the refrigerator before planting.

Planting time depends on the climate zone. In the south, this work can be carried out already in February at those moments when the so-called February windows are formed or throughout March. In any case, the weather should be warm and the earth should be well warmed up.

In the Moscow region and the middle zone, the optimal planting time is the first half of April. In the northern regions, planting in a pot, as mentioned above, is carried out at the end of March. After 40-50 days, the pot with seedlings is transplanted into open ground.

How to water tulips

Now a little about watering. Do I need to water newly planted bulbs? It all depends on soil moisture. If the soil is moist, watering is not necessary. But if planted in dry soil, the hole or groove must be well drained.

Tulips should be watered regularly and abundantly during the period of active growth, during budding and flowering, especially in dry years. Moisture should penetrate to the depth of the roots (0.5 m), and not just wet the ground. After flowering, watering stops.

Forcing for the holiday of March 8

Early varieties of tulips are suitable for forcing, forming large or medium buds, which also look good in a bouquet. Forcing is carried out either in a greenhouse, if you need to grow a large number of flowers, or at home on a windowsill, which is quite possible. How to do it right?

First stage

Preparing the bulbs. Medium and large-sized bulbs weighing at least 25 g are suitable for forcing. In the summer, when the time comes for digging, select specimens with a diameter of at least 3.5 cm. They need to be cleared of soil and placed under a canopy to dry. After 2 weeks, the bulbs are cleaned again, the roots are cut off and placed in a cool place with a temperature of +18-20°C.

Second phase

Cooling. At the beginning of September, the bulbs begin to cool. The temperature in the storage area drops to +5°C, humidity 80-90%. You can create such conditions in the refrigerator on the bottom shelf. The bulbs will spend at least a month in such conditions.

Third stage

The cooled bulbs are placed in a common planting box for germination. It is first filled with a mixture of sand and peat in a 1:1 ratio. Make the first layer 3-4 cm high, place the bulbs on it, lightly pressing them into the loose soil. The distance between them is 10-20 cm. Lightly irrigate with a sprayer and cover with clean, dry river sand on top so that only the tops remain on the surface.

It is necessary to provide tulips with nutrients. To do this, make a solution of calcium nitrate 1 g per 1 liter of water and water the planting. Now you need to put the boxes with the bulbs in a cool, dark cellar with a temperature of +5°C and a humidity of about 85%. Periodically water the soil in the box, but only lightly, so as not to cause the appearance of fungal diseases. This way the bulbs are stored for about three months until the beginning of January.

Fourth stage

The first shoots should appear around mid-January. A month before March 8 or the date by which it is expected to receive blooming tulips, the boxes are brought out into the light. By this time the sprouts should already have reached 4-5 cm. The temperature is raised to +18°. It is necessary to establish artificial additional lighting for plants; Daylight hours should last 10 - 11 hours. At this time, a second feeding with calcium nitrate is carried out in the same dose as the first.

Secrets of growing tulips in the garden

Tulips are unpretentious, but there are several subtleties that are worth considering for the successful cultivation of these flowers:

• To better warm the soil with the onset of spring, the mulch must be removed as soon as the snow melts.
• Plantings are periodically inspected and all diseased bulbs are dug out.
• The soil in the flower bed with Tulips is regularly loosened and all weeds are removed.
• Plantings are watered regularly, preventing the substrate from drying out; it is also important that the plants do not suffer from excess moisture.
• After the first shoots appear, the tulips are fed with nitrogen compounds. This will help the plant grow faster and increase green mass.
• When flower stalks appear, the plants are fed with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers for active budding.

Important! Feed the tulips carefully so as not to burn the roots and leaves. It is better to do this in rainy weather or combine it with watering. Watering during the flowering period should be more abundant. 10 liters of warm water are consumed per 1 square meter of soil .

Tulips in the garden

All flowers must be removed immediately after flowering, preventing the formation of a seed pod. If the plant spends its energy feeding the seeds, the bulb will weaken and will not bloom well next year.

After the buds wither, the tulips are watered for another 2 weeks, gradually reducing the amount of water to zero. Next, cut off the flower stalks, yellowed and wilted leaves, dig up the bulbs and clean them from the soil, dry them and place them in storage until replanting.

Some varieties need to be dug up every year, but most tulips can be grown in one place for 2-3 years. For better flowering, experienced flower growers advise digging up the bulbs annually, doing this in May-June. If you keep plants in the ground longer than expected, diseases begin to affect them, the flowers become smaller, and the tulips gradually degenerate. After digging up the tulips, the soil is dug up and it is again ready for planting other ornamental crops.

Tulips can safely be called one of the most beautiful perennial plants

Tulips will help decorate any garden area. You can choose a pastel color scheme or celebrate the onset of spring with a bright flame of flowers. The modern variety of varieties and species provides the gardener with a huge choice and will make you fall in love with these beautiful spring flowers forever.

Author of the article: Lastovskaya Lyudmila Viktorovna

Tags: flower beds, perennial plants, seedlings

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Problems during forcing and how to solve them

Only a professional or a very experienced gardener can handle forcing tulips. This difficult work requires strict adherence to all agrotechnical conditions, and the slightest deviation causes problems with flowering. Some of them are discussed below.

1. Leaves and buds lose color and blind buds appear. This may be due to insufficient lighting or the cooling period not being long enough.
2. The plant develops a short stem. Here it is also possible that the cooling conditions are not met.
3. At temperatures above the optimum, the buds and leaves become deformed.
4. In sunny weather, boxes with growing tulips should not be taken out into the open air under direct sunlight for a long time. In addition to the fact that they get sunburned, the buds may begin to bloom ahead of schedule.
5. Feeding during the period when leaves begin to grow is mandatory. If this is not done, the stem will begin to thin and the heads of the tulips will droop, which will lead to their breaking off.

Tiers and sandwiches: alternative planting methods

A creative approach will make any task interesting. This also applies to floriculture. Recently, unusual methods of planting tulips have been gaining popularity. They save time, decorate the garden and attract attention. In addition, they are quite simple and anyone can master them.

Planting tulips in autumn in containers

Container planting or planting in baskets simplifies the process of growing tulips. The essence of this method is to use baskets, containers and other containers instead of a flower bed or bed. They can either be dug into the ground or freely placed in any convenient place.

Advantages of this method:

1. You are firmly confident that you have completely dug out the planting material. The bulbs themselves are minimally damaged and, therefore, are better stored.
2. You create optimal conditions for plant growth. Relevant for infertile soils - it’s easier to create ideal conditions in a limited space.
3. The likelihood of damage to the bulbs by rodents is reduced. Mice cannot overcome the barrier from below.

You can use anything as a container: plastic bottles, boxes, baskets, pots and even bags. One condition is that you need to make holes to drain excess water. Use a hot knitting needle or other similar object for this. The holes should not be large, otherwise mice will get through them.

Method of planting lasagne tulip bulbs

The second way to arrange flowers in an unusual way is tiered planting. The essence of this method is to lay the bulbs at different depths. The very first layer, starting from the bottom, is occupied by large onions. The higher the level, the smaller the size. To avoid making a mistake and planting one flower on top of another, use long thin sticks. Stick them near the planting site, and remove them after the flowerpot is completely filled. This method of combining is also called “lasagna” - the structure resembles this dish in its layering.

When composing such a composition, it is important to take into account the color, size and shape of the petals. Try to play with contrasts: smooth ones with terry ones, red ones with yellow ones. Groups of flowers united by color will look beautiful. For example, variegated with monochromatic ones: the color of the inclusions should match the monocolor of the petals of the neighboring variety. A group in which tulips are selected according to flowering dates will look impressive.

Cunning

you can combine different flowers. You can add irises, crocuses, lilies, daffodils, hyacinths and other bulbs to tulips.

Video “Methods of planting tulips”

Diseases of tulip bulbs

During storage and during the growing season, tulips can develop various diseases.

1. White rot . The growing point and neck of the bulb are covered with a white felt coating, which later turns brown. Sometimes the disease manifests itself as a weeping spot around the neck. The growing point of the tulip dies.

The disease can be noticed during leaf germination. They are severely stunted and have gray-blue spots on their surface.

Sick specimens are removed from the garden along with a lump of earth. The place where they grew is treated with fungicides or at least sprinkled generously with ash. Tulips cannot be planted in this place for 5 years. Do not plant tulips after lilies, daffodils, and crocuses.

1. Fusarium . Appears as brown spots on the bottom of the bulb. These spots are clearly delimited along the edge by a red line, so the disease is easily recognizable. Gradually, the spot darkens, pathogens penetrate deep into the bulb, and it rots. At the same time, a sharp specific odor is released. High humidity of more than 90% in the place where the bulbs are stored and temperatures above +20° contribute to the rapid spread of the disease.

In addition, fusarium spores, if they fall on healthy bulbs already planted in the ground, can cause disease during the growing season.

Many varieties have increased immunity to this disease, but there are no varieties that are completely protected.

Therefore, it is very important to treat the bulbs before planting. The temperature in the storage should be between +15-18°, and the humidity should not exceed 60%.

1. Root rot . In mild cases, only partial rotting of the roots occurs, which does not significantly affect the growing season of plants. But with severe damage, stunted plants appear in the garden bed. When digging, transparent watery roots are found that break easily. Later they acquire a dark brown color.

The spread of the disease is facilitated by high soil moisture. It is desirable that the site is drained and that groundwater does not lie close to the soil surface. If a disease is detected after digging up the bulbs, they must be treated with a fungicide in the same way as the soil where the diseased tulips grew.

1. Penicillosis . Bulbs that are stored for a long time for forcing are affected by high humidity. The disease manifests itself in the form of yellow-brown spots with a blue coating. The bulb does not die, but even treated before planting it produces weak peduncles and deformed leaves. In case of severe damage, when the bulb is completely covered with plaque, it is impossible to save it.

When to plant tulips, daffodils, lilies, crocuses and other bulbs in the fall

The main flow of planting material comes to us from countries with a longer growing season. Therefore, each bulbous crop has its own optimal purchase time and planting time.

• How to choose good bulbs
• How to properly treat bulbs before planting
• How and where to plant bulbous plants in the garden
• When should you plant autumn bulbs?
• Is it possible to buy bulbs late, at the end of autumn, and how to plant them?
• When to buy lilies: autumn or spring?
• When to plant lilies - in spring or autumn?
• When to plant and arrange daffodils
• When to plant hyacinths
• When to plant crocuses
• How to plant crocuses in the garden after forcing them
• When to plant small bulbous plants
• When to plant tulips
• When to plant imperial hazel grouse

How to choose good bulbs

When purchasing tulips, daffodils, lilies and other plants, pay attention to the size of the bulb; the quality of flowering depends on it. Inspect the bulbs. They must be dense, in no case withered, have no soft rotten places, or the smell of mold. Pay attention to the bottom of the bulb - it should be dry and dense, this is the key to the health and vitality of the plants. Bulbs of low-growing varieties and species plants have smaller bulbs, this is normal.

In hyacinths, the color of the covering scales of the bulbs, as a rule, resembles the color of the inflorescences. In addition, pink, purple, and blue hyacinths have bulbs that are usually broadly conical, yellow and orange hyacinths are narrowly conical, and white hyacinths are ovoid. Varieties of different colors should have different colored bulbs.

It is very risky to buy lily bulbs after forcing. They are very light because their scales have been depleted of nutrients. They don't bloom the next year. If you are attracted by the price and are willing to skip two or three flowering seasons, you can buy lilies after forcing them.

You need to order and pay for bulbous plants with delivery by mail in advance so that you will already receive the package by the time of planting season.

Read more about buying flower bulbs >>>.

How to properly treat bulbs before planting

Remove packaged bulbs from packaging at home and immediately discard severely damaged ones. Before planting, clean newly purchased bulbs and treat them for infections. Bulbs infected with penicillium rot often go on sale; it is especially common on tulips and lilies. The disease manifests itself in the form of gray-green sporulation on the integumentary scales of the bulb. If the penicillium spots are small, the bulb can be cured. Often, on apparently healthy bulbs, if you remove the integumentary scales, you can find the first signs of fusarium: grayish depressed spots surrounded by a brighter border. They should be removed to avoid introducing infection into the garden. Peel the bulbs, sprinkle the sections with crushed coal or powdered fungicide. Let the cut dry and slightly cork for 2–3 days.

Before planting, treat the bulbs in a liquid disinfectant (Vitaros, Maxim) according to the instructions.

In the photo: Hyacinth bulbs

Learn more about the main diseases of bulbous plants and control measures >>>.

How and where to plant bulbous plants in the garden

The planting depth of the bulb can be calculated using the “rule of three”: from the bottom to the soil surface there should be a distance equal to the height of the bulb multiplied by 3. On heavy soil, it is better to reduce the planting depth by 20%.

During the growing season and flowering, bulbs need sun, but when they are dormant, light is not so important. Blooming in early spring, small bulbous plants can be planted among deciduous trees, which bloom around the time the foliage of these flowers dies.

Bulbous plants do not tolerate stagnation of water, but, as a rule, they are demanding in terms of nutrition and moisture during the growing season. The best choice for them is nutritious and moisture-absorbing, but well-drained loamy soil. Sandy soil requires additional watering and increased fertilizing.

Plants whose bulbs need to be dug up for the summer (tulips, hyacinths, hazel grouse) can be planted in flower beds with fast-growing annuals and biennials: nasturtiums, aromatic tobacco, violas, forget-me-nots, daisies. They will decorate empty spaces in the flower garden.

See tips for using bulbous plants in garden design >>>

Methods of planting bulbous plants >>>.

When should you plant autumn bulbs?

1. First, in late August - early September, plant small-bulbous plants: scylla, muscari, pushkinia, chionodoxa, crocuses.

2. Gradually progress to planting daffodils in late August/early September, then plant tulip bulbs around mid-September. In principle, tulips can be planted until the first ten days of November; the main thing when planting late is to mulch the plants well.

3. It is better not to rush into planting hyacinths. The most favorable moment is the second ten days of October, when the temperature reaches about +8°C.

Is it possible to plant bulbs, for example, in July–August? Yes, but they begin to take root at a soil temperature of about +10ºС, and until this time they will lie in the ground, where onion flies, wireworms, weeds and various diseases lie in wait for them.

Read more about where and when to plant bulbous plants >>>.

Is it possible to buy bulbs late - at the end of autumn - and how to plant them?

You can buy unsprouted bulbs at fall sales. Many companies offer good discounts on so-called expired bulbs. For example, tulip bulbs can be planted in slightly frozen soil without compromising flowering the following year. When planting, such bulbs must be covered for the winter. The bulbous shelter should be dry and well ventilated.

To plant bulbs in cold soil, you must first place them in a pot with garden soil, use a drill or crowbar to make a sufficient depression in the frozen soil, place the pot, bury it, mulch the planting site with peat and cover the top with a covering material (spunbond, lutrasil).

If, during late planting, the bulbs (corms) were covered on top with spruce branches (film, non-woven material, foliage, etc.) or a large layer of compost, then in the spring, before flowering, the mulching layer must be raked off and the covering materials removed.

When to buy lilies: autumn or spring?

We receive a new harvest in the spring, from industrial cold storage. In the fall, on the shelves, as a rule, there are bulbs that have been stored for a year, ready to start growing, and sometimes even bulbs with sprouts. It is better not to buy such lilies. Therefore, it is worth buying bulbs only from local producers in the fall, and imported ones in the spring. Many people buy lily bulbs in winter, in January and February, when the first exhibitions begin. These bulbs should be refrigerated and stored in packaging. If the sprouts become large and continue to grow, then the bulbs should be planted in a container and kept in a cool, bright place.

Is it possible to buy lilies with sprouts? In spring you can buy lilies with sprouts. In the fall, you should not buy lilies with sprouts. They will continue to grow when planted and will die at the first frost.

Look at the rules for buying lily bulbs, when is the best time to do it, what to pay attention to >>>>

When to plant lilies - in spring or autumn?

The most favorable time for planting lily bulbs is early September. The bulbs planted at this time will take root well and overwinter well - the bulbs are at rest and will not begin to grow. But in the fall it is difficult to find good planting material. Mostly they sell bulbs that are left over from the spring sale and have been in the refrigerator for almost a year.

The optimal time for planting lilies is the end of August, September and even October. Don't plant lilies too late as they take time to establish. When planted late, the bulbs do not have time to grow sufficient root mass and overwinter worse.

When planting lilies late, it is better to make a shelter. Cut branches of shrubs and arrange them over the bulbs in a “hut”. Cover with oak leaves (they are the least likely to rot and cake). Cover the top with an inverted vegetable box, then with a waterproof material (the ends of the box should be ventilated). Press down the cover with heavy objects.

You can plant lilies in the spring. When planted in spring, the bulbs bloom the same year. But when planting in spring, you most likely have bulbs from cold storage, and when you transfer them to warmth, they grow quite quickly. Therefore, the time for planting will be quite limited. You need to have time to plant the bulbs while the sprouts are still small. If they have reached 10-15 cm, then the bulbs need to be planted sideways so that the sprouts are placed in the groove next to them almost horizontally. They will gradually take on a vertical position and the plant will bloom in the same year, although it may be weaker. When planted in spring, the bulbs spend time growing the root system to the detriment of growth and flowering, and sometimes they simply rot the following winter.

The optimal time for planting and replanting lilies in regions with short summers (Moscow region, Leningrad region, Ural, Siberia) is mid-late August. In the southern regions, planting dates are shifted about a month later, in the northern regions, on the contrary, earlier.

The optimal time for transplanting and planting lilies in central Russia is August-September, in the southern regions - October. In principle, you can plant later, when the soil temperature is close to zero, but in this case you will have to cover the plants well for the winter.

See more about how to plant lilies >>>.

When to plant and arrange daffodils

Daffodils should be dug up later than tulips, as soon as the foliage has almost completely turned yellow (June-July), and planted earlier - before the end of September. The optimal time for planting daffodils is the second half of August, since the roots of daffodils grow most actively in September. In central Russia, daffodils are planted from approximately August 20 to September 1. If they are planted later, along with tulips, they will not have time to develop a root system, which means they will overwinter worse.

It is better to mulch daffodil bulbs planted after dry storage (without roots) with fallen leaves (layer thickness at least 10 cm); this operation will not be needed in the future, since daffodils can grow in one place for 5–7 years. The only exception is split-crowned daffodils, which are mulched annually.

Secrets of growing daffodils >>>.

When to plant hyacinths

Hyacinth bulbs are planted in central Russia (Moscow region, Leningrad, Vologda, Kostroma and other regions) and the Southern Urals in late September - early October. Like tulips, if planted too early, hyacinths may begin to grow and die in winter, and if planted too late, they will not have time to take root before the soil freezes to the planting depth. However, hyacinths can be planted until the first half of November. But then the place should be insulated in advance with leaves or other material from what is at hand, and protected with film from rain and snow. And after planting, re-install the insulation.

Experts advise preparing the area for planting hyacinths in August, two months before planting, otherwise natural settlement of the soil may cause the roots to break off, which will begin to develop in the fall. When planting in holes, it is advisable to add well-rotted compost or peat, if it was not added when preliminary digging the soil.

With the onset of persistent cold weather, it is better to cover the hyacinth plantings. To do this, you can use dry peat, humus, sawdust, dry fallen leaves and spruce branches. In the spring, as soon as the soil begins to thaw, the cover must be carefully removed, since hyacinths sprout very early.

After spring home forcing, hyacinth bulbs can also be planted in the garden. But not in spring, but in autumn. After the leaves wither, the bulbs must be carefully removed from the pot, dried at room temperature, and cleaned of old roots and covering scales. Store in peat, not allowing it to dry out until the beginning of September at a temperature of about +25°C.

See in more detail how to plant and grow hyacinths in the middle zone >>>>.

Read more about forcing hyacinths >>>.

When to plant crocuses

Crocus is an early spring flower, so most varieties of this plant need to be planted in the ground before winter, that is, in the fall, in September-October. Planting crocuses on the lawn under fruit trees, next to a water well, where the soil later freezes, will allow plants to be planted even in November. But if you want to have flowering crocuses next spring, you should order and purchase crocus corms in late summer.

There are also autumn varieties of crocuses; they bloom in August-September. Their bulbs need to be planted in summer (July-August). Such crocuses are more whimsical and require careful care, weeding and watering. Therefore, they are less popular than early flowering ones. When planting crocus bulbs, you must take into account their light-loving nature: if there is not enough light, the buds do not open.

Read more about how to plant crocus bulbs in your lawn >>>>

How to plant crocuses in the garden after forcing them

Indoor crocuses - plants that bloomed in a pot indoors - can be replanted in the garden after forcing them out. After flowering, remove the faded inflorescence so that the plant does not waste energy trying to form seeds.

Gradually reduce watering, stimulating the flow of nutrients into the bulb. When the leaves turn completely yellow, remove the bulb, dry it at room temperature, and clean it of old roots and covering scales.

After forcing, crocus bulbs can be planted in the ground as early as May, after the soil has thawed. The plants will not bloom this season; it is unlikely that they will produce full blooms next year.

Read more about forcing crocuses here >>>.

When to plant small bulbous plants

Small-bulbous plants (crocuses, kandyki, chionodoxes, muscari, scylla, pushkinia, corydalis, galanthus and others) can not be dug up for several years until they grow. When plants begin to crowd each other, usually in June, when the leaves turn yellow, the plants are dug up, divided and replanted in a new location.

In the second half - end of August, new planting material is planted. Plants must have time to take root before the onset of cold weather. On lighter soils, the bulbs are planted a little deeper, and on heavier soils, a little shallower than the standard recommended depth. It is better to bury small bulbs—baby bulbs—less than adult bulbs.

When to plant tulips

The optimal time for planting tulip bulbs in central Russia (Moscow region, Leningrad region, Non-Black Earth region) and regions with short summers (Ural, Siberia) is at the end of September - beginning of October, when the soil temperature at a depth of 10 cm is about +10°C, and Before the soil freezes, plants have time to form roots (about 20-30 days). Plants that do not have time to take root well will receive less nutrition and will be stunted in growth. Immediately before planting, it is recommended to soak the bulbs for 30-60 minutes in a 0.5% solution of potassium permanganate or special disinfectants (for example, Maxim).

Read more about how to treat tulip bulbs against diseases before planting >>>.

During a prolonged warm autumn, mulch with a 10 cm layer of peat the tops of the tulips that appear so that the plants do not suffer from subsequent frosts.

Tulips that do not require digging for 3-6 years: Kaufman, Foster, Greig, species, as well as Darwin hybrids, Triumph, Simple early and Simple late. They are best planted with drought-resistant perennial species with shallow root systems, such as sedums. In summer, the bulbs of such tulips do not want moisture. Planted sedums live in a flower garden for 3-6 years, and when the time comes to dig up the bulbs, the clumps of sedum are carefully removed with a shovel, and after harvesting the tulips they are returned to the flower garden.

Read more about growing tulips >>>.

Where to plant bulbous plants in the garden >>>.

When to plant imperial hazel grouse

Usually hazel grouse are planted in the garden in September-October. Forced later planting of bulbs requires mulching the planting site and covering it with oak leaves for the winter. Hazel grouse bulbs do not have covering scales, so they must be handled with the utmost care, avoiding drying out and mechanical damage. If it is not possible to plant hazel grouse bulbs immediately after purchase, protect them from drying out - place them in slightly damp peat or live sphagnum moss and put them in the vegetable compartment of the refrigerator.

If you already have imperial hazel grouse in your garden, then when the leaves turn yellow in the summer, you must dig them up and store them in a warm, dry place until the roots appear. Typically, new roots grow on the bulb in mid-August - early September. The appearance of roots and shoots is a signal that it is time to plant the bulbs stored for storage. Be sure to add a small layer of coarse river sand to the bottom of the hole - this will protect the bulbs from rotting.

In the photo: Planting tulip bulbs

Planting care and preparation for winter

Immediately after planting, tulips are watered abundantly. In the future, you don’t have to irrigate the flowerbed, or do it only in warm and dry weather. With the arrival of the first frost (around mid-October), the plants begin to prepare for winter.

The bulbs are watered with a solution of ammonium nitrate (30-40 g of fertilizer per 10 liters of water) and then mulched with a layer of peat 3-5 cm thick. After the snow covers, you will need to throw a layer of snow on the flowerbed and lightly compact the resulting snowdrift. In snowless winters, you can cover the plantings with pine or spruce branches.

Useful video

When to plant tulips. Basic rules for planting tulips - video

Super way to plant tulips in boxes - video

Autumn planting is most suitable for this crop. Despite the fact that gardeners have a lot of work at the beginning of autumn, they must set aside time for planting tulips. In the spring, they will be one of the first to delight gardeners with colorful flowering and will lift their spirits with their solemn and at the same time delicate appearance.

If you didn’t have time to plant tulips in the fall, what should you do?

Sometimes it may happen that you received the bulbs after the autumn planting deadlines had passed. You should not store them at home in order to plant them in the spring. There is a high chance that the onions will spoil. You can save planting material in a flower pot.

The container should be wide, with low sides and drainage holes. The bottom of the pot is lined with a thin cloth, any loose soil is poured to a height of 5 cm, then the tulip bulbs are laid out close to each other. They must first be treated in the same way as we do before planting in a flowerbed, by soaking them in a solution of potassium permanganate or fungicide.

The bulbs are covered with a 7 cm thick layer of soil on top and watered. The container is stored at home at room temperature for 3 weeks. After the specified time, the pots are wrapped in a plastic bag and several layers of covering material, and then taken out to the balcony for storage. The tulips will remain there until spring; when the weather warms up, they are planted on the site.

If desired, you can arrange flower forcing, for example, by March 8th. Those who do not have a balcony can take the bulbs in a pot to the dacha and, after wrapping them up, bury them in the snow. In the spring, when the soil thaws, the bulbs are very carefully removed from the pot, trying not to damage the regrown young roots, and planted in the garden.

How to replant tulips correctly

There are a number of rules that should be followed. So, how to plant tulips correctly:

• Prepare nutrient soil. It’s good if legumes grew in the garden before.
• Place the holes in 30 cm increments, the distance between children is at least 15 cm.
• Before lowering the tuber into the hole, pour a little pink solution of potassium permanganate.
• If the soil is too dry and cracks, mix it with peat and sand.

Advice! Tubers are planted in moist soil, so there is no need to water immediately. First watering 4 days after planting. The first feeding is already after 10-14 days.

How to store tulips before autumn planting

Bulbs of faded tulips are dug out of the ground after their leaves turn yellow and wither. How and where to store bulbs dug up after flowering until winter planting? First, they are cleared of soil, roots that are too long are cut off from the bottom, the bulbs are dried in the shade in the fresh air, then they are washed, cleared of dead scales, then kept for an hour in a solution of fungicide or potassium permanganate, dried again and put in a box with sawdust. , wrapping each onion in paper. The box is placed in a cool, dry place with good air exchange and a temperature not exceeding 25 ºC. In August, the storage temperature must be lowered first to 20 ºC, and then to 15 ºC.

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