Apples are rotting: causes, symptoms of diseases, methods of control

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Yakov Pavlovich

Professor, Head of the Department of Vegetable Growing

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Fruit rot is a common problem when growing apple trees. When apples rot right on the tree, gardeners have questions: what to do with the spoiled fruits, how to stop the spread of infection and prevent its occurrence in the future? In each case, a specific disease causes harm. Therapeutic and protective measures depend on the reasons that lead to crop loss.

Apple fruit rot: causes

The fruits rot to a greater extent in summer varieties of apple trees, since apples are characterized by increased sensitivity and tenderness. For the same reason, they are not stored for a long time.

Among the diseases that provoke fruit rot are moniliosis, scab, chlorosis and flyworm. Etiology of origin of fungal type. Mushrooms easily tolerate low temperatures and are quickly activated after the onset of warm weather. Therefore, it is important to treat trees not only during the growing season, but also in the fall.

In addition to diseases, fruits spoil due to the following factors:

hail particles hitting the apples;
birds pecking;
damage by insect pests;
prolonged rains;
feature of the variety;
weakened plant immunity;
lack of preventive treatments and fertilization.

Fungi spread through insects, water, wind, and when planting an infected seedling. Sometimes infection occurs due to dirty instruments. Bacteria are transmitted by humans through shoes and hands. The rapid dispersal of spores is facilitated by dense plantings.

Varieties resistant to diseases

Breeders have not yet developed varieties that are absolutely immune to fungal infections. However, several of them are known, characterized by relative resistance to moniliosis.

For example, varieties resistant to moniliosis :

Jonathan;
Welsey;
Ontario;
Mutsu;
Freiberg;
Idared.

are less susceptible to chlorosis :

Moscow necklace;
Dialogue;
Andryushka;
Vasyugan;
Currency;
Dey.

Varieties with immunity to scab:

Orpheus;
Lungwort;
Margo;
Delight;
Star;
Saffron pepin;
Orlinka.

are resistant to fly beetles :

Aldenham Purple;
Blood red;
Siebold;
Abundantly flowering;
Manchzhurskaya.

Signs of diseases

Fruit rot diseases are most often provoked. In this case, signs appear that cannot be ignored - the structure of the skin and pulp changes, spots and blackening form, and gray conidia form. Each pathological condition is characterized by special signs.

Scab

The disease belongs to dry rot, so it develops not only due to high humidity. The causative agent of scab is the fungus Venturia inaequalis, which completely affects the entire tree, starting with flowers with leaves and ending with fruits with bark.

Fungal spores overwinter in fallen leaves and apples, but during the swelling of the buds and the onset of heat (+18...+20 °C) they move to the shoots. The location of the pathogen is the inner side of the leaf blade. If it rains, it penetrates the skin of the fetus.

After 15-20 days, the conidial stage appears, which is characterized by secondary infection. After flowering ends, the fungus lays pseudothecia, which are stored until next spring.

How does scab appear during fruit formation:

dry leaves, singly located along the crown;
deformation of the green mass and the formation of black dots on it, this also happens with apples;
unripe fruits mummify and fall off before harvest;
the skin of apples becomes covered with cracks, hardened seals, brown-brown spots, and gray dots;
The fruit pulp becomes dark and soft.

Moniliosis

The disease occurs due to infection with the fungus Monilia (Monilia fructigena and Monilia cinerea), and refers to wet fruit rot. Appears in two forms:

first - in early spring, leaves and branches dry out like a burn (another name is monilial burn);
second - fruits are affected, starting from the period of their formation.

On apples, moniliosis appears gradually:

first, one small brown spot forms on the peel of the fruit, which rapidly grows over the entire surface;
after that, gray dots form on it (these are fungal spores);
the pulp softens greatly and acquires a dark color;
the smell of apples becomes sweet and sour;
the fruits fall to the ground or turn black on the tree.

Chlorosis

The main cause of chlorosis is insufficient synthesis of the pigment chlorophyll, due to which the leaves acquire a green color. This occurs against the background of a lack of minerals - sulfur, nitrogen, manganese, zinc, iron, magnesium.

There is also an infectious form that develops against the background of infection by various viruses, fungi and bacteria. In the first case, it is enough to apply fertilizers with the missing microelements; in the second, treatment with fungicidal preparations is required.

The green mass is affected first. Signs:

the foliage becomes pale, then yellowing;
dots of different dark shades form on the surface;
tissue necrosis - the edges around the perimeter die off;
the veins remain green.

Many other diseases have the same symptoms. But unlike them, chlorosis also affects fruits, which are initially covered with spots and then rot.

Clinical signs depend on the form of the disease:

lack of iron - leaves in the upper part of the shoots are affected;
nitrogen deficiency - the lower part of the branches turns pale;
lack of potassium - lightening in the center of the shoot;
lack of manganese and potassium - necrotic border on the foliage and yellowing near the veins;
lack of sulfur – general change in leaf color.

Flycatcher

The cause is the fungus of the same name - the fly beetle, which penetrates the fruits. The pathogenic microorganism is considered harmless to human health, so affected apples can be eaten (preferably after heat treatment - jam, compote, marmalade).

How it manifests itself:

at the initial stage - the surface of the fruit is covered with small black dots (like excrement from flies);
As the disease progresses, rotting begins.

Small tubercles are formed in small groups, which significantly reduces the marketable appearance of the fruit.

If the apple trees are rotting on the apple tree, what to do?

Most often, fungal spores land and appear on diseased apple trees. Therefore, it is extremely important to ensure that there are no cracks, wounds or damage on the tree.

Rotten apple on a tree.

Here's how to protect a tree:

remove weeds and carrion in a timely manner;
trim dry branches, bark and leaves;
carry out spraying against diseases and pests;
remove fruits from the tree, do not leave them for the winter;
in the fall, clean and process the tree trunk;
apply fertilizer and dig up the soil around the tree.

It is very important to not just throw away those parts of shoots and fruits that have been infected, but to burn them in order to completely destroy the fungal spores.

Methods of combating diseases

The first thing to do is pick rotten apples and fruits that are just beginning to spoil. Then measures are taken to further protect the trees and destroy fungi and pathogens. For this purpose, special preparations and solutions, traditional methods are used.

Store-bought remedies against infectious rot

To combat infectious fruit rot, chemical and biological preparations are used, which are sold in specialized stores.

What to use and how to prepare for spraying:

colloidal sulfur – 100 g of substance per 10 liters of water;
Bordeaux mixture 1% - for 10 liters of water take 100 g of copper sulfate, 130 g of freshly slaked lime;
Cirama in the form of a suspension - 50 g of dry product per 10 liters of water;
Zineba – 100 g of substance per 1 liter of water;
iron sulfate - 300 g of the drug per 10 liters of water;
fungicidal agents (Skor, Horus) - per 10 liters of water, 2 ml of the first or 2 g of the second;
other chemical and biological preparations that are diluted with water in accordance with specific instructions for use: Oksikhom;
Topsin-M;
Strobe;
Abiga Peak;
Mikosan-V;
Meters;
Agricola;
Phytoflavin;
Ferovit;
Vectra;
Raek;
Fludioxonil;
Alirin-B;
Sporobacterin;
Rhizoplan.

At least two treatments are required with a 14-day break between treatments.

Folk remedies

Many gardeners prefer to use more natural methods. Such products are used for spraying. The following recipes showed the greatest effectiveness:

mustard solution - 40 g of dry product per 10 liters of water;
salt mixture - 50 g of salt per 10 liters of water;
pepper broth - boil 100 g of fresh red hot pepper and 200 g of onion peels in 1 liter of water for 5 minutes, strain, dilute with water to 10 liters;
wormwood tincture - 400 g of dry herb for 8-9 liters of water, cook the mixture for 10-12 minutes.

Folk remedies give the desired effect only with frequent spraying - every 4-5 days.

Protective work

To protect apple trees from further spread of diseases, do the following:

pick all apples that show signs of fruit rot;
collect fallen leaves under the tree and burn them;
if leaves, branches and shoots are affected, remove them and burn them;
treat with a folk or chemical remedy.

Treatment

There are a number of actions that need to be taken to protect the apple tree from the spread and development of fungus and other diseases.

Apple tree treatment.

Against diseases

To protect against diseases, it is necessary to use chemicals several times during the spring. The first spraying is carried out at the stage of the first buds, and the second - when flowering ends. For this they use Bordeaux mixture, Hom, Skor, Tsiram.

Against pests

Apple tree pests will not only damage the crop itself, but will also create favorable conditions for the development of fungi. They carry spores on their legs and wings, thereby increasing the affected area. For protection, the drug Iskra-M or Iskra double effect is used.

Folk remedies against garden pests

When pests first appear, you should immediately begin protecting the apple tree. This is important in order not to destroy the crop and protect the garden from other related diseases. But in order not to use chemicals for small doses of infection, folk remedies are suitable.

Against aphids and caterpillars

Aphids are dangerous because they quickly spread throughout the garden and can infect neighboring plants by carrying fungal spores. Caterpillars are able to climb inside still healthy fruits, infecting apples and introducing fruit rot inside.

Aphids on an apple tree.

To fight you can use:

decoction of 50 g red pepper;
200 grams of onion peel;
100 grams of dry mustard.

Substances in these quantities are prepared per 10 liters of water.

Against codling moths

Since the product is effective only against adults, treatment must be carried out three times in the spring. But the product does not accumulate and does not harm beneficial insects, so treatment can be carried out without fear. A decoction of wormwood greens along with flowers and tops helps.

Fruit rot in autumn

Often during the warm season the fungus is not so noticeable, but closer to autumn during the ripening period it becomes more active. The fight must be carried out immediately, because the manifestation of the disease can turn into an epidemic.

First, the leaves of the infected tree turn brown, and the first spots of rot appear on the fruits. Over time, the entire fruit becomes completely rotten and mummified. At the same time, it becomes a source of infection for other plants, because spores grow on it.

Preventive actions

Novice gardeners usually do not pay attention to the presence of putrefactive diseases in the early stages of development. They mistakenly believe that the drying out of foliage is a consequence of returning frosts or wintering. It is important to pay attention to the condition of the flowers, since most often the fungus is activated during the flowering period.

To prevent the occurrence of chlorosis, scab, moniliosis, flyworm and other diseases, follow the rules of prevention. What to do and when:

In the spring. Treat trees immediately after warm weather has stabilized - even before flowers begin to form. To do this, use 3% Bordeaux mixture, copper sulfate, Oksikhom or Abiga-Pik according to the instructions. For one adult tree, 2-2.5 liters of solution is enough. If it is a large-growing apple tree, increase the dosage by 2 times.
3 days before flowering. Spray with Bordeaux mixture, but at a concentration of 1%. If there is no solution, use Fitolavin according to the instructions.
25-30 days before harvest. Spray the apple trees with Fitosporin-M (strictly according to the instructions). If it is missing, make an iodine solution - 10 ml of the substance per 10 liters of water. After the first treatment, repeat spraying after 3 days.
In autumn after the leaves fall. The procedure will destroy various pathogenic microorganisms, so that in the spring the trees will not be affected by fungi. Solutions options: copper sulfate - 100 g of substance per 10 liters of water;
urea - 70 g of mineral per 10 liters of water;
ammonium nitrate - 1 kg per 10 liters of water.

In addition to tree treatment, there are other preventive measures that also cannot be ignored. If you want to get a rich and healthy harvest of apples, follow these recommendations:

in autumn and spring, prune trees, removing old branches, broken and damaged shoots;
shape the crown to avoid thickening of the branches;
Cover broken areas and cuts with garden resin or regular paint;
Frequently remove fallen leaves, weeds and other debris under apple trees;
treat the trunks with lime to a height of 60-90 cm;
dig up the area around the trunk;
In the fall, add phosphorus-potassium mixtures;
control the humidity level - do not allow waterlogging, as this is the main cause of fruit rot;
do not forget to take care of other types of garden crops, since they carry fungal spores through the wind;
if you plant seedlings, keep the distance between them specified for a particular variety - dense trees contribute to the rapid spread of infection;
if cracks, holes and other damage form in some places on the bark, immediately treat with garden varnish - spores leak through the microcracks;
do not leave fruits on apple trees in the fall;
Disinfect pruning and digging tools with antiseptic agents.

Experienced gardeners and specialists recommend that beginners plant varieties of apples that have increased resistance to chlorosis, moniliosis, fly blight and scab. Most often these are hybrids, designated by the abbreviation F1. With their selection, scientists achieve better indicators against disease.

What are these varieties?

Antonovka;
White filling;
Pepin Saffron;
Jubilee apple tree;
Liberty;
Welsey;
Parmen;
Slav.

Fruit rot on apples: moniliosis

Moniliosis is dangerous because it can affect not only a tree with damaged branches, but also previously absolutely healthy apple trees growing near the source of danger. Fungal spores are carried from one plant to another by insects; this occurs during the apple blossom period. Moniliosis is also able to travel thanks to the wind. As a result, one diseased tree infects its neighbors in the garden. Moniliosis is dangerous not only for apple trees. Quince, cherry, peaches, apricots, pears and other trees often suffer from this disease.

What does it look like

The sight is not pleasant: the fruit is covered with spots of rot. First, several “pockmarks” appear on the surface, gradually the apple is completely covered with a putrefactive coating, and is crowned with a pattern of yellowish-gray dense drops - fungal spores.

Description of the disease

The disease, according to experienced gardeners, has two stages of development:

During the flowering period, the flowers on the trees begin to dry out and fall off, then the leaves become sick, losing their healthy green color and curling, and the branches become covered with a diseased “tan,” as if they had been set on fire.
Brown rot appears. Each diseased apple affects neighboring ones if they have skin damage. Birds and insects also contribute to infection.

Conidia - spores of a harmful fungus - grow, and gradual intoxication of the entire plant begins. And then the whole garden will get sick if measures are not taken in time.

The disease can be recognized by the following signs (depending on the stage of the lesion):

putrefactive spots on fruits;
an overgrown putrefactive pattern throughout the apple;
the pulp is brown with the taste of fermentation;
yellowish-brown growths;
the fruits turn black;
the branches dry up;
leaves wither and curl.

Cause of the disease

Some gardeners believe that apple trees get sick due to lack of fertilizers or lack of precipitation.

However, moniliosis appears and develops for completely different reasons, often due to agrotechnical flaws:

trees are planted in lowlands, where there is a lot of moisture and little light;
the rules for planting trees have not been followed; they are located close to each other;
no mandatory work is carried out: loosening trees, removing fallen leaves and carrion, applying fertilizer to the ground;
processing branches with a dirty tool;
improper application of fertilizers;
processing only with folk remedies, which are less effective than industrial ones;
the venerable age of the apple tree, older ones are more susceptible to disease.

The most favorable conditions for the development of the disease are:

humid climate;
temperature from 15 to 20 degrees;
fog;
dew;
overcast weather.

However, even on sunny days, the disease attacks trees if there are prerequisites for this due to gardener mistakes. Therefore, in moderate, warm and humid climates, you need to be on guard and monitor the health of fruit trees.

What drugs to treat

A “chemical attack”, that is, treatment with special preparations, will help against moniliosis. Experienced “healers” advise using Bordeaux mixture, a one percent solution. The apple tree must take a healing shower; treating one or two affected branches will not bring success, because there is no guarantee that the fungal spores have not begun their deadly journey through the tree. One apple tree will require about three liters of Bordeaux mixture.

In addition to this product, you can use fungicides:

Horus;
Speed;
Polisher;
Delan;
Topsin-M;
Raek.

You can choose other fungicides that will help neutralize the fungus.

In addition to these products, gardeners use Hom, copper sulfate, and colloidal sulfur. These chemicals kill the spores, protecting the fruit from rot.

If you don’t want to deal with chemicals, you can take biological products:

Alirin B;
Fitosporin M and others, which are used to treat plants from fungal diseases.

The advantage of these products is that they are safe for people and animals. Also, biological products do not repel bees.

Prevention

To protect trees from fungal diseases, gardeners use old remedies proven by their great-grandfathers.

Here are some of them:

Mustard solution. To prepare it, take dry mustard powder (40 g) and dilute it in water (a bucket). The solution is sprayed on the apple tree.
Saline solution. For a bucket of water you will need a kilogram of table salt.
A solution of iodine, manganese, baking soda. In this case, dissolve soda in warm water: 4 tablespoons per liter of water. Then about 20 drops of iodine solution are poured into the solution. The prepared solution is dissolved in a bucket of water. In another container, prepare a solution of potassium permanganate; it should be dark purple in color. The solution is mixed with a prepared solution of soda, water and iodine. Before use, add 4 tablespoons of liquid soap to the bucket with the healing agent.

Trees must be sprayed several times.

However, traditional methods will not bring any benefit if agrotechnical rules are neglected.

Experienced gardeners advise:

take for the garden only trees with immunity to fungal diseases;
crowning and thinning must be used as a means against thickening;
avoid planting in lowlands;
there must be a distance of at least four meters between seedlings;
loosen and dig up the ground near trees;
do not neglect fertilizing;
When whitewashing trunks, use fungicides;
heal damaged branches in a timely manner; fungus can penetrate through the wounds;
apply fertilizers strictly according to instructions;
treat branches only with disinfected tools, so as not to introduce dirt and pathogens into the wounds;
use insecticides against insects;
mandatory spring treatment of trees (before the flowering period) with chemicals;
treatment with protective agents after flowering;
use of fungicides in July and after harvest.

If you follow these rules, you can protect your garden from moniliosis and other fungal diseases.

How to rejuvenate an apple tree

A tree cannot be transformed from old to young in one summer. It will take three years for the plant to restore its health. During this period, the apple tree will be able to recover and get stronger.

The surest means of rejuvenation is pruning. It should be carried out in autumn or spring. According to experienced gardeners, spring is the best season.

How to prune:

In the first spring, sanitary work is required: dry branches, diseased branches, and the top of the trunk are removed.
In the second year, thick branches that do not bear fruit should be removed. At the same time, branches that contribute to a dense crown are removed.
In the third year, the branches are shortened, so it becomes possible to form new shoots.

If three years for a rejuvenation procedure seems too long, the work can be completed in two. This method is considered half rejuvenating.

How to act in this case:

In the first spring, the southern part of the apple tree is crowned.
In the second year, the north side is pruned.

After pruning, the cuts are treated with varnish and covered with a film that protects the wounds until the fall.

When anti-aging pruning it is important:

start by cutting off the thickest branches;
be sure to remove dry, diseased branches and branches growing inside the crown;
Ten tops are enough, the rest should be removed;
shorten the trunk to three or three and a half meters to let the sun's rays into the crown;
It is forbidden to immediately remove more than one third of the branches.

By following these rules, you can give an old tree a second youth.

Varieties resistant to moniliosis

It is believed that rot can be avoided if you follow the rules of caring for apple trees from the moment they are planted. According to experienced gardeners, it is best for the seedlings to be located at a considerable distance from each other; the gap should be at least four to five meters. This will give the trees natural protection.

For the garden, it is recommended to choose varieties with immunity to moniliosis:

The president;
Ontario;
Freiberg;
Renet Simirenko;
Mutsu;
Idared;
Jonathan.
Uralets;
Slav;
Parmen.

However, one should not assume that these varieties are not at all afraid of fruit rot. There are no such apple trees. Therefore, trees should be cared for carefully to prevent damage.

What to do with rotten apples

Apples affected by fruit rot, but still suitable for consumption, cannot be stored. They will infect healthy fruits. The best option is to recycle. Cook compotes, jam, preserves. You should first cut off the affected peel.

Fruits that are completely rotten cannot be eaten. Throw it in the compost, they say, they will rot anyway? In no case! Rotten apples should be burned; this is the only way to protect the garden from the spread of moniliosis. Another way is to bury the affected fruits outside the garden plot.

What to do with rotten fruit?

Apples affected by fruit rot are strictly prohibited from being eaten. This causes poisoning and the development of infectious diseases in humans. An exception is the fly beetle disease.

Fruits should not be left on the garden plot, as this contributes to the further spread of fungal spores. As a result, the entire garden and even a vegetable garden will be infected.

Features of recycling:

rotten fruits are burned, but when fresh they have a wet texture and will burn for a long time;
the affected apples are taken far outside the orchard and buried to a depth of at least 0.5-0.7 m (this is important, because rotten elements left on the surface will destroy trees growing in the wild).

There is another option in which apples with fruit rot can be beneficial - turning them into organic fertilizer. It will be rich in vitamins and microelements for plants and soil. When microorganisms multiply in a nutrient medium, the soil is enriched with humus - the fertile layer becomes larger, the structure of the soil is looser and lighter.

Based on the chemical composition of apples, this feeding is suitable for absolutely all plants - shrubs, vegetables, etc.

Fertilizer manufacturing options:

In a compost pit. Dig a hole, place various organic waste in it, add rotten apples. Make a wooden fence around the heap, in which there are cracks for normal aeration (thanks to ventilation, putrefactive fungi are destroyed, and aerobic beneficial ones develop). Loosen the mixture every 3-4 days, and add biological fertilizers to speed up the fermentation process. Composting time is from 2 to 3 months. Cut the apples into pieces with a shovel.
Liquid apple fertilizer. Pour the chopped apples into a large barrel (halfway), fill it to the very top with warm water. Thanks to this, fermentation occurs. Cover with a lid so that 15-20 cm remain open. Place the container in the sun. 15 days are enough for fermentation, after which use the mixture as liquid manure (be sure to dilute it with water 1:1).

Fruit rot creates many problems for the gardener - it affects all healthy trees and completely destroys the crop. Therefore, it is important to combat diseases in a timely manner. And to prevent this, do not forget about preventive treatment of trees and general measures to prevent the problem.

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Causes of apples rotting on trees

For experienced gardeners, the diagnosis is obvious: the apple tree has picked up the Monilia fungus, a disease called moniliosis or fruit rot. All kinds of microorganisms, including pathogens, live in any garden. For each species there are favorable years when weather and other conditions contribute to their development. And only then we see obvious signs of disease, and until then fungi and bacteria sleep peacefully in the soil, on fences, weeds and even on the branches and leaves of the same apple tree, where they are carried by the wind and insects.

On Russian farms, moniliosis is widespread, with the greatest harmfulness (damage to trees up to 100%) observed in the north-west, in the central regions, in the southern Urals, in Altai, in Siberia, in the western part of the North Caucasus.

Favorable conditions for Monilia are cool and wet springs and relatively warm and rainy summers. The optimal temperature for development is +15 °C. Spores germinate into apple pulp at +15… +20 °C. The spread of the fungus is facilitated by streams of rain, they wash away spores from one fruit to another, from branch to branch. In addition, drops of water that do not dry out for a long time are a cozy cradle for the emergence and growth of mycelium, from which, after some time, spores will fly out again and continue to infect your garden.

Signs and stages of apple fruit rot infection:

A small brown and soft spot appears on the surface of the fruit.
Gradually the entire fruit becomes brown and watery.
Convex gray or yellowish pads grow on the skin; they are arranged in rings surrounding the entire fruit. This is where new disputes are brewing.
Mycelium pads are arranged in rings
Rotten apples remain on the tree and dry out or fall to the ground. In the first case, the fungi go to overwinter on twigs, in the second - on lumps of soil.

Video: signs of moniliosis on an apple tree, control measures

The disease primarily affects injured apples with damaged skin and exposed flesh.

Who or what can cause such wounds:

Scab. Signs of this fungal disease are rough and dry sores on the surface of apples. They often crack.
Codling moth. The larva gnaws a hole in the apple, eats out the core and moves on to another one hanging nearby, then to a third, etc.
The codling moth larva made a hole and a fungus settled in it
Hail. It can be so strong that it not only pierces the leaves right through, but also leaves dents and cracks on the fruit.
Birds. If the birds don’t find anything tastier than apples, they may peck them too.
The apples themselves. This happens on varieties that are too productive. The ovaries are densely located on the branches and, growing, crush each other.

Monilia does not disdain shoots; even in the spring it settles in cracks in the bark. The branches dry out along with the leaves and flowers on them. Sometimes a disease destroys the entire tree.

Apple tree moniliosis in spring

With the onset of spring, the marsupial stage of the fungus begins , active sporulation and dispersal, which occurs during the blooming of young leaves and flowers. They get overwhelmed quickly.

Petals and pistils turn brown and fall off, leaves curl and dry out.

Damage to inflorescences by monilial burn can completely destroy the crop.

It is important to take timely measures to reduce the risk of fungal development and spread. Prevention is better than the task of how to cure an apple tree from fruit rot.

Preventive control of apple tree moniliosis:

In early spring inspect the plants , remove dried branches, trim thickened crowns, clean off exfoliated bark and lichens, cover damaged areas with soda water or paint, whitewash the trunk and large branches with lime mortar.
Apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizers , remove last year's garbage and plant debris, and dig up the soil near the trees. Young apple trees can be watered 2-3 times with preparations that stimulate the strengthening of the root system (root growth, heteroauxin) at the rate of 5-10 liters per plant.
Water and maintain constant soil moisture.
Carry out chemical treatment against pests and diseases that contribute to the development of moniliosis. The industry offers a wide range of drugs with detailed instructions for use.

Phosphate fertilizers.

Useful videos

Watch the video for information from an expert about fruit rot:

Watch a useful video about moniliosis:

Watch the video of gardeners’ experience in combating fruit rot:

Watch the video for information from a specialist about biological products for garden protection:

It is necessary to carry out preventive, sanitary and therapeutic measures in a complex. You need to work not only with apple trees, but also with other plants in the garden.

Author: Maria Sukhorukikh
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How to spray apple trees correctly

To properly spray trees, you need to use the right product in the right concentration, for which it is important to carefully study the instructions for the product. It is important to use equipment suitable for processing.

Spray bottles or hand sprayers with a pump are best.

The spray head should be located on a long boom, which will allow you to spray high crowns. Apple trees must be treated on all sides, and the soil under them must be sprinkled. When carrying out work, you must wear a protective suit and mask to avoid poisoning or chemical burns.

Prevention measures

It is already clear that it is better to prevent such a dangerous disease than to then lose the harvest, and possibly the entire tree. To understand how to do this, it is enough to analyze the causes of infection and create conditions unbearable for fungi:

Thin out the crown every year. In dense thickets it is warm, windless and damp, and this is a favorable environment for the development of many fungal diseases.
Normalize the harvest on abundant varieties; by the way, this agricultural practice also helps combat periodicity in fruiting.
Change the mulch under the tree every spring or fall.
Pull out the weeds so that the trunk is well lit and ventilated.
Treat cracks in the bark.
In spring and autumn, even if there are no signs of damage, spray against pests and diseases.
Regularly remove carrion from under the tree.
Apply fertilizers to the tree trunk in a timely manner, and spray the leaves with solutions of microelements. This will strengthen the apple tree's defenses.
Do not leave overripe or cracked fruits on the branches.

Proper tree planting

To protect trees from fungal diseases and pests, you need to know the rules for planting apple trees. Important:

Select pick up time. Early spring and mid-autumn are considered the most optimal.
Maintain a distance between seedlings, which should be at least 3 meters, ideally 5.
Purchase trees with a closed lump of earth. Then the apple trees are not injured, only the packaging is removed. The seedling is planted directly with the ground.
Prepare the hole in advance: that is, for autumn planting it is dug in the spring, for spring planting - in the fall for applying fertilizers. It is dug up in a sunny area. Taking into account the passage of groundwater, at least 2 meters.
The soil should be fertile, loose, slightly acidic.

Compliance with planting rules, knowledge of common diseases and measures to combat them will allow you to get a healthy harvest of apples.

Storage rules to prevent apples from rotting

A cellar, basement and other ventilated, dark rooms are the best option for storing apples, since they are cool, there is little light, and the humidity is always kept at a level.

The best containers are wooden boxes or cardboard boxes. Any container must be ventilated and ventilated, that is, holes must be made in it so that the apples can “breathe.”

If you have the opportunity to wrap each fruit in paper, use this advice, because the wrapped fruit, even if it begins to deteriorate, will not infect other apples.

How to properly lay out the crop:

apples are laid out in rows;
each row is covered with sand, husks, moss or leaves;
Under no circumstances should the apples touch each other.

Another little secret for storing apples is that each of them is washed with propolis infused with alcohol and thoroughly dried.

Sand perfectly hides moisture and stores fruit, so some gardeners don’t just sprinkle sand on apples, they store them in sand. To do this, take a dense box without holes, fill it with clean fine sand, into which the apples are then laid out.