Why do tomato leaves dry and turn yellow in a greenhouse: causes, diseases, pests

The situation when the leaves of seedlings or tomatoes planted in open ground dry out and turn yellow is well known to many gardeners. This culture is quite demanding in terms of maintenance conditions, and any violation of technology immediately affects the appearance of the plants. Therefore, the vegetable grower’s task is to find out the cause of the yellowing of the leaves and help the tomatoes before the problems affect the size of the harvest.

Cladosporiosis

Brown spot or cladosporiosis most often affects tomatoes grown in winter greenhouses.
The source of the disease is neighboring plantings, last year's plant debris, contaminated soil or seeds. Symptoms of cladosporiosis:

The plant wilts with sufficient watering.
Yellow streaks or spots appear on the upper side of the leaves.
The bottom of the tomato leaf is covered with a brown coating.
Affected leaves darken and curl over time.
The ovary or unripe tomatoes lose their juiciness and dry out.

What to do first when cladosporiosis is detected:

Weed the tomatoes and clear the beds of vegetation.
Cut and then burn diseased shoots.
Treat the bushes with fungicides or preparations based on copper compounds.

Traditional methods of treatment

Infected plants must be disinfected

Garlic or laundry soap are used as folk remedies for treating tomatoes. Dissolve 25 g of grated laundry soap in 1 liter of milk and add a few drops of iodine. The plants are sprayed with the resulting solution in the evening.

To treat damaged plants, a mixture of infused onion peels is also used. For 10 liters of water, 2 handfuls of onion peels are required, the mixture is boiled for 30 minutes. Plants are sprayed with a solution at room temperature.

Another folk remedy is treatment with a mixture of whey and water. Heated serum is diluted in 10 liters, after which the plants are disinfected.

A tincture of wood ash or any copper-containing composition can also help.

All folk remedies help only in the early stages of diseases.

The important role of disinfection

If the rules of planting care are not followed, it is difficult to protect the beds from Fusarium wilt of tomatoes. The lower leaves of the affected plant dry out and curl, and the tops quickly wither and also dry out over time.

The fungus that causes the disease can wait for seedlings in the soil and penetrate through the root, affecting the stem, leaves and fruits. If the soil was disinfected before planting, it is possible that it may become infected with diseased seeds.

The wounds that arise during the removal of stepchildren also become “entry gates” for the pathogen. Fusarium wilt is easily transferred from a diseased plant to a healthy one through tools. To prevent the disease, tools should be kept clean and regularly disinfected, and the soil and seed should be treated with potassium permanganate and warmed up before planting.

Gardeners often wonder why, despite proper care (watering, fertilizing, temperature control), tomato leaves wither and dry out. The answer is tritely simple - the plants are sick. Viral, bacterial and some fungal diseases manifest themselves as yellowing, spotting and drying of leaves at the beginning of their development:

tobacco mosaic can be identified by deformation, curling and dried brown spots on the leaf blades;
the first signs of late blight infection are brown dry spots on the leaves;
fusarium is manifested by yellowing of foliage, drying out and falling of the lower tier of leaves;
curl is a viral disease that cannot be treated with anything and is manifested by deformation and then drying out of the leaves;
With bacterial spotting, brown spots also form on the leaves and the tips dry out.

Mechanical damage can lead to no less sad consequences: improper pinching, pinching of tomatoes or pests. Insects such as aphids, spider mites, and some types of caterpillars suck the juices from the leaves, causing them to dry out.

What to do in this case? Disinfection should be taken care of even before planting. Seeds must be disinfected in solutions of potassium permanganate, copper sulfate, and ash.

But special attention should be paid to preparing the soil, because it is in it that all kinds of larvae, bacteria, and fungal spores live

As you can see, there can be quite a few reasons for leaves drying out, and often this is not just a whim of the plants, but the beginning of a serious problem that leads to the death of the plants. Regularly inspect seedlings and adult bushes for damage; this will make it possible to notice deviations in time, eliminate them and thereby save the harvest.

Fungal diseases

Fungal diseases most often affect tomato ovaries. The reasons for their appearance may be:

Poorly cultivated soil.
Diseased tomato seeds.
High humidity in the room.
Improper care of seedlings.
Moisture getting on the sprouts when watering.
Poor drainage of planting pots.
Stagnation of water in the soil.

The latter seems to be the most favorable environment for the development of fungal diseases. One of these diseases is rhizoctoniasis. Otherwise referred to as “blackleg” or “root rot”. Symptoms include:

Darkening of the ovary stem at the root.
The stem becomes thinner.
Withering of the sprout and its fall.

The plant itself cannot be saved. It dies within a day. The tomato ovary should be removed and the soil treated with a 3 percent manganese solution. It is advisable to spray the remaining seedlings with Bordeaux mixture.

Important: before planting seeds, they should be disinfected using a 5 percent solution of potassium permanganate.

This is what a black leg looks like on tomato seedlings:

Late blight

A destructive fungal disease. Infection of seedlings occurs through poorly treated soil. It is quite difficult to diagnose a fungus at an early stage of development, which makes it difficult to treat the plant. The disease can affect any vegetable crop at all stages of growth and flowering.

Signs of the disease:

The appearance of dark spots with light edges on the leaves and stem of seedlings.
Stem rotting.
Complete drying of the tomato ovary.

You can cope with the fungus only by timely removing the affected leaves or stems of the plant. The removed parts of the ovary must be burned. The remaining seedlings should be disinfected with a solution of Bordeaux mixture.

Important: you should not leave infected parts of plants in the garden. You should not use them as compost either. To avoid further spread of the disease, the removed grass should be burned

To avoid further spread of the disease, the removed grass must be burned.

Alternaria or dry rot

The disease manifests itself as:

The appearance of brown spots on the underside of the leaves.
The spots grow quickly and cover all areas of the leaves.
Falling leaves of seedlings.
Darkening of the tomato stem.

The fungus should be combated using chemicals:

Acrobat.
Ditan.
Quadris.

White spot

The fungus spreads from the soil to the lower leaves of seedlings and quickly spreads throughout the entire stem.

Symptoms of the disease:

Darkening of tomato leaves.
The appearance of black spots on the affected foliage.
Drying and dying of leaves.

If the disease is detected in a timely manner, the plant must be treated with a solution of copper sulfate (1 glass - 10 liters of water). In case of prolonged disease, the seedlings should be destroyed, and the soil should be disinfected with potassium permanganate and sprinkled with wood ash.

Cladosporiosis

Basically, infection with olive spot occurs after planting tomato ovaries in a greenhouse. The first signs of fungus are:

The appearance of yellow spots on the lower leaves of seedlings on the outside.
Formation of a velvety coating from the inside of the leaf.
Curling and dying of foliage.

For treatment, it is enough to remove the diseased foliage from the seedlings and treat with any of the following:

Bordeaux acid.
Screening
Barrier.

Powdery mildew

The disease is caused by a marsupial fungus. Transmitted to the plant from contaminated soil. Externally it appears as a white coating on the foliage. To treat and prevent the disease, seedlings are sprayed with the following agents:

Quadris.
Strobe.
Topaz.

Before planting seeds in containers, you can soak them in Epin solution.

What is the reason for the leaves of seedlings to dry out?

Every summer resident should understand why the leaves on tomato seedlings dry out in order to prevent such a situation and also eliminate it in a timely manner. Otherwise, there is a chance of ruining the future harvest. Trying to sow the seeds again may be unsuccessful because there is simply not enough time. And there is a risk of making a mistake again.

Reasons for all the leaves falling off

Usually, an experienced farmer immediately sees why tomato seedlings are drying up, and, having taken appropriate measures, quickly corrects the situation. But as for beginners, they rarely manage to improve the condition of the seedlings. Therefore, before germinating seeds, it is worth carefully studying the features of cultivating tomatoes, as well as problems that may arise in the process.

This is why leaves fall on tomato seedlings grown on a windowsill:

The indoor air is too dry. Tomatoes love a humid climate. And the central heating system installed in domestic apartments greatly dries out the air.
Excess salts in the soil. In this case, white or yellow inclusions form on the surface of the leaves. Irrigation with hard water and frequent fertilizing are the reasons for the appearance of excessive amounts of salts in the soil. In this state, seedlings are not able to draw the nutrients they need from the soil. Therefore, it begins to dry out and wither.
Potassium deficiency.
Lack or excess of moisture. Associated with improper irrigation.
Presence of diseases. Late blight is what most often kills tomato seedlings. Late blight affects the plant as a result of frequent irrigation and failure to maintain optimal temperature conditions. In addition to leaves, it affects late blight and fruits. This disease can destroy the entire crop in a short time.

Causes of drying of the lower leaves

Often, tomato seedlings dry out the leaves located at the bottom of the plant. This is typical for pale seedlings. First, the lower leaves of the seedlings turn yellow. Then they dry out and fall off. This situation creates many questions. Inexperienced gardeners cannot understand the reason for this state of the plant. It's actually simple.

Why the lower leaves of tomato seedlings dry out is described below:

Lack of nitrogen. At the same time, the bush becomes sluggish, the foliage becomes faded. The new leaves are inconspicuous and small.
Potassium deficiency. With a lack of this element, the lower leaves turn yellow and dry out.
Excess moisture due to improper irrigation.
Lack of lighting.

Thus, a deficiency of certain elements is the main reason why the lower leaves of tomato seedlings fall off most often. There is no need to worry too much here. The situation is completely fixable.

Causes of drying leaf tips

Sometimes gardeners observe the following situation: the tips of the leaves of tomato seedlings dry out, turn yellow and curl. And there are many reasons for this. Let's look at the most common ones.

Why the tips of the leaves of tomato seedlings dry out is described below:

Dry air in the house

To do this, you should pay attention to the condition of other plants. Perhaps the tips of their leaves are also drying out. Over-salted soil. Lack of an element such as potassium

This is usually typical for soil that is highly acidic.

Thus, there are many reasons why the lower leaves of tomato seedlings dry out.

And it is important to correctly determine why such a situation with seedlings occurred.

Other reasons for the poor condition of tomato seedlings

Too high a temperature is why the leaves of tomato seedlings on the window fall off. Probably the box with sprouts is located near a functioning battery. Then the container will need to be moved to another location. You can also try to isolate the container from the heat source with sheets of plywood.

Sometimes after picking, the farmer observes that the leaves begin to dry out. Most likely, the roots were damaged during the transplantation procedure. What to do in this case, how to save tomato seedlings and bring them back to life? There is an exit. It is necessary to spray the plant with a weak solution of mineral complex fertilizer.

Leaves turn yellow and dry out

If the leaves of tomato seedlings dry out and turn yellow immediately after picking, then it is quite possible that the roots were damaged during replanting. This happens with early or careless picking. Let's list what other reasons there may be for the leaves turning yellow and drying out at the time of picking seedlings:

fungal disease;
sunburn;
“wrong” soil mixture.

As a rule, manufacturers of soils for seedlings sin in the same way. They put too much peat and don't add any microelements at all. But during this period, seedlings vitally need nitrogen and other substances. Sometimes purchased soil consists entirely of peat, and the water does not linger and flows into the pan. Moisture does not reach the roots of the seedlings.

Self-preparing the seeds and soil before sowing will help eliminate the cause, which will help avoid contamination of the soil with diseases such as fungus. To prevent diseases, seeds for sowing can be treated in a saturated solution of manganese

And then, taking precautions, change the water in which they will be soaked, rinse the dishes to avoid fungal diseases

The soil mixture needs to be heated for 10-20 minutes in an oven preheated to 200°C. It will be better if you prepare the soil for tomato seedlings yourself. To do this, you need to mix several ingredients, which are taken not by weight, but by volume. One of the compositions:

turf soil - 3 parts;
compost - 2 parts;
sand - 1 part.

In order to properly prepare the soil for tomato seedlings, you need to mix all the ingredients in the fall. In winter, place the container with soil on the balcony so that the main causes of disease - fungal spores - die.

In the spring, before planting, the mixture must be sifted or large particles must be manually removed. Add 2 tablespoons of superphosphate, a liter of ash and a bag of vermiculite to a bucket of tomato mixture. Often the cause of poor soil is too little air. Vermiculite will give it lightness and saturate it with air.

But, in growing tomatoes, other reasons may appear, as a result of which the leaves will begin to turn yellow, dry out, and a disease may even develop. To prevent this from happening, you need to know the reasons and know what to do with tomato seedlings. These may include the following reasons:

flooding with water (excessive watering);
lack of light;
lack of nitrogen.

Let's look at each point separately. Overwatering of seedlings is a common problem among gardeners. It's not always their fault. It happens that the soil is formed incorrectly and it either strongly “holds” water, or, conversely, allows it to pass through. In this case, the leaves begin to turn yellow and dry out. In such cases, the problem can be solved by replanting the plants before they die.

It happens that yellowing is the result of a lack of light. Seedlings without light cannot grow to their full potential. The ideal place to start growing seedlings is a south window. Then, when the seedlings grow up and the bright spring sun appears, they can be moved to the southeast or southwest side.

Hypothermia

Even covering plants with fabric or film will not save them from the cold when growing in open ground. Therefore, observe the timing of planting seeds specifically for your region, plant in greenhouses and hothouses, and use early-ripening varieties.

Signs

If the tomatoes still managed to suffer from the influence of low temperatures, this will be noticeable by the following signs:

growth slowdown;
widespread yellowing of leaves;
border that has become bluish;
redness of the stem in some cases.

You can try to save the fruits by spraying with adaptogens like aloe or zircon - just one drop per liter of water is enough.

Other causes of tomato wilting

Improper watering - correct watering regime is an important condition for growing tomatoes. They suffer from both a lack and an excess of moisture, which can lead to root rot and plant wilting.

2. Lack of light - tomatoes require a lot of sunlight. It may not penetrate well into the greenhouse if there is high humidity and water droplets condense on the roof and walls, so there must be good ventilation.

3. Overheating - despite being thermophilic, tomatoes do not tolerate prolonged exposure to high temperatures. In such conditions, plants spend all their energy on breathing, stop growing and wither - their leaves become discolored, and their buds, flowers and ovaries fall off. When the temperature rises to 38-40 degrees, the leaves begin to fall.

Any of the problems described above or their combination can cause tomatoes to wilt in greenhouses, but it is within the power of every gardener to prevent their occurrence.

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Why do tomato leaves turn black in open ground?

Changes in color or the appearance of pigmentation unusual for the culture have various causes. The problem may be caused by physical environmental factors or infection. The shoots begin to dry out and the leaves turn black due to:

damage to the root system due to replanting or exposure to pests;
improper watering or fertilizing;
soil contaminated with fungi or bacteria.

It is generally accepted that tomatoes in open ground are more likely to become infected with dangerous infections. Fungal spores are easily carried by wind, insects or animals. The proximity of tomatoes to other crops that have low disease resistance is especially dangerous. Such plants are potatoes and cucumber.

Another reason why tomato leaves turn black in open ground may be night frosts.

Late blight

It is extremely rare for tomatoes grown in open ground or under simple film covers to avoid late blight. The disease is widespread in all regions, but causes the greatest damage to plantings in the temperate climate zone.

Signs of late blight:

The lower edge of the leaves close to the soil becomes covered with spots that quickly turn black and grow.
A light coating of spores appears at the border of the lesion.
On diseased leaves, spots dry out and tissues die.
The infection gradually spreads higher up the stem.
Green fruits are covered with radiant brown areas.
In dry weather, the spots dry out and turn black, and in humid weather they become watery.

Black spot

A bacterial disease such as black spot often appears in tomato seedlings. Young tissues are more susceptible to the pathogen, but infection can also occur at a later stage of development.

Signs of infection:

The tomato bushes look weak and begin to wither.
Leaves and stems become covered with small watery spots, which turn black and acquire a chlorotic border.
Damaged areas merge together.
Depressed dark spots with a wet edge appear on green fruits.
The middle of the leaves turns black, perforates, and the stem falls off.

Frost damage

When planting tomatoes early, the seedlings may be damaged by spring frosts. In this case, the tip of the leaf, inflorescences and top of the plant turn black. After exposure to cold, the affected part of the bush dries and dies.

Prevention measures

In order to prevent tomato leaves from turning yellow in a greenhouse, plants need to be provided with the necessary preventive measures:

growing seedlings in containers with a volume sufficient for normal development of the root system;
careful planting of seedlings;
maintaining the distance between tomato bushes;
regular and sufficient watering of tomatoes;
creating an optimal microclimate in the greenhouse;
control over soil acidity;
selection of varieties resistant to diseases and pests;
carrying out procedures for disinfecting soil and tomato seeds;
deep digging of soil in the greenhouse;
planting plants next to tomatoes that repel pests - calendula, marigolds;
timely removal of plant residues.

Air humidity and irrigation principles

Failure to maintain humidity levels and improper watering have a very negative impact on the condition of tomatoes. Greenhouse plants suffer the most from changes in temperature and humidity. Too dry air and insufficient watering lead to rapid yellowing and then drying of the leaves. In this case, you just need to water the plants on time, and if this is not possible, then place containers (jars, buckets) filled with water in the greenhouse.

High soil and air humidity is no less dangerous for plants. Every experienced greenhouse grower knows that under such conditions fungal diseases begin to develop, most of which manifest themselves as yellowing and spotting on the leaf blades. In addition, at high humidity, tomato stems become very elongated, which leads to weakening of the bushes and, accordingly, to the loss of some chlorophyll (yellowing).

If the leaves of greenhouse tomatoes dry out due to humidity, the problem can be solved by regularly ventilating the room and adjusting the temperature. It is much more difficult to revive a drying bush in the open ground. To avoid having to save the plants, you must adhere to certain rules when watering:

It is better to water adult bushes infrequently, but abundantly, since their roots go deep into the soil - 1-2 times/week with a water consumption of 0.5-1 bucket/1 bush (depending on size);
seedlings and young seedlings whose root system is still superficial, on the contrary, need to be watered daily, but little by little until the plants enter the bud formation phase, the soil should always be slightly moist;
It is recommended to water tomatoes at the root, avoiding moisture on the stems and leaves - drip watering is ideal for greenhouse plants.

One of the common reasons that cause tomato leaves to dry out is improper watering and failure to maintain humidity levels when growing plants indoors. The tips of the leaves begin to dry out when the air is too dry. This error can be easily corrected with a simple trick. To do this, place bowls or jars with a wide neck filled with water next to the pots.

Tomatoes have special requirements for irrigation technology. The reasons why the tips dry out lie in both insufficient watering of the plants and excess moisture in the soil:

when the soil dries out, the stem loses turgor, the tops and flowers dry out, the plant may shed its ovaries;
sudden soil moisture after a long period of drought will lead to cracking of the fruit.

In order not to become hostage to the vagaries of the weather when growing plants in open ground, you need to worry about this problem in advance by strengthening the skin of future fruits by applying phosphorus fertilizers.

When cultivating tomatoes in film shelters, you must adhere to simple watering rules:

Do not moisten the soil under tomatoes too often with small doses of water. It is necessary to water abundantly, but infrequently. The optimal regimen is 1-2 times a week.
You should remember why the leaves of seedlings dry out. Young plants require higher soil moisture than those that have entered the phase of ovary formation or fruit ripening.
Watering is done carefully, at the root, so that drops do not even fall on the lower leaves of the tomato and do not wet the stem. Otherwise, favorable conditions are created for the development of fungal diseases.

Often the leaves of tomatoes dry out not because of such a whim of nature as drought, but because of a long cold snap. Since people cannot influence weather conditions, the way out of the situation will be to build a greenhouse on their site. It is easier to control the temperature in a film shelter, and you can be sure that the leaves on the tomatoes will definitely not dry out due to changes in the thermometer outside the window.

Preventive measures

How to prevent yellowing:

If the seedlings are unwell due to waterlogged soil, the bushes are transplanted into a new loose substrate.
Maintains an optimal temperature of 20-24 degrees.
If the seedlings are crowded, the young shoots are separated.
Provide additional LED lighting.

Expert opinion

Valentina Rareko

Editor-in-Chief of Repka.online. Experienced summer resident and gardener.

The volume of the future harvest depends on the quality of the bushes planted. If yellowing occurs, they try to find out and eliminate the problem from the very beginning. Provide favorable conditions and carry out complete, balanced feeding.

Illiterate feeding

Why do tomato leaves wither? Often the cause is an improperly organized diet. In this case, the problem is caused by both a deficiency and an excess of one or another element.

First of all, you need to determine which leaves are affected by the problem.

If old leaves on tomatoes turn yellow, they are lacking nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, magnesium, zinc or molybdenum.
If the top shoots of tomatoes wither and turn yellow, then they do not receive enough calcium, chlorine, boron, sulfur, manganese or iron.

Wilting of leaves due to a lack of one or another nutrient is easily treated. To do this, regulate the application of necessary fertilizers.

Nitrogen

The lack of nitrogen in sufficient quantities leads to the fact that tomatoes do not grow and remain small with sparse foliage. The veins on the leaves turn crimson, then gradually the entire leaf turns yellow and withers. To correct the situation, tomato beds are watered with a urea solution prepared at the rate of 30 g of fertilizer per 10 liters of water.

Phosphorus

A lack of phosphorus is manifested by the purple color of the plant's foliage, hard and brittle stems. Ignoring such signals leads to the death of the roots. To prevent this from happening, pour 1 tsp under each plant. superphosphate for proper growth.

Potassium

If young leaves, twisted into tubes, appear on the tops of the tomato beds, and the old ones have turned yellow and dried out, the plantings are fed with potassium fertilizers. A sufficient amount of potassium helps sprouts resist various diseases. The use of a solution of 40 g of potassium sulfate per 10 liters of water restores the balance of the microelement in tomato beds.

Magnesium

During the growing season, tomato sprouts really need magnesium. Its deficiency is manifested by yellowing of the foliage between the veins. After this, the entire sprout withers. Magnesium deficiency is corrected by spraying the beds with a solution of magnesium sulfate at the rate of 5 g per 10 liters of water.

Zinc

Small yellow spots on young leaves of the vegetable indicate a lack of zinc in tomatoes. To replenish this element, gardeners dilute 5 g of zinc sulfate in 10 liters of water. The prepared solution is sprayed onto the plants.

Molybdenum

Light green leaves with yellow speckles and upturned edges indicate an insufficient amount of molybdenum. This element is responsible for the process of chlorophyll production. It is better to take care of eliminating the problem in the fall. The soil in future beds is limed, and fertilizers containing phosphorus are used. If the problem occurs to the tomatoes after transplanting them to a permanent location, foliar feeding should be done with a solution of ammonium molybdate prepared at the rate of 10 g of fertilizer for every 10 liters of water.

Calcium

Yellowed tops may indicate calcium deficiency

Yellowed and wilting tops of leaves in tomato beds indicate damage to the root system or structure of tomatoes in general. This is caused by a lack of calcium. 5 g of calcium nitrate diluted in a bucket of warm water will help replenish its reserves.

Iron

A lack of iron leads to chlorosis of the leaves. This phenomenon rarely occurs when cultivating tomatoes. This happens if the soil in the beds is oversaturated with lime. To replenish reserves of this element, the soil is treated with iron sulfate. A solution is prepared from 5 g of the drug for every 10 liters of water.

Chlorine, sulfur and others

Lack of chlorine is manifested by the death of young leaves and shoots. With a lack of sulfur, the leaves become like newsprint. Boron deficiency is manifested by wilting of the tops. With a lack of manganese, tomato leaves first become brightly colored, then wither, dry out and die.

To restore the balance of these nutrients, tomato plantings are treated with special preparations that contain the listed substances. Solutions are prepared following the dosage: 5 g of microelements per bucket of water.

Other reasons

The causes of diseases in tomatoes can be divided into two large groups. The first group includes reasons associated with improper conditions and growing in a greenhouse, the other includes those caused by improper care of plants. Among the main reasons, three should be highlighted separately:

improper watering;
insufficient amount of light;
overheat.

It should also be noted here that sometimes the reason why the leaves of a tomato wither, and the tomato itself becomes lethargic, sick and weak, is not one single factor, but several at once. In this case, treatment requires an integrated approach based on the symptoms.

Improper watering

One of the main conditions for growing tomatoes is the correct watering regime. Leaves in a greenhouse, like the entire plant, can suffer from either a lack or an excess of moisture. This can cause root rot and rapid wilting of plants.

How to correctly determine the dose and frequency of watering? The answer is simple - the frequency of watering is determined by the age of the plant.

Thus, there are three main types of irrigation depending on the age category of tomatoes:

daily watering - suitable for young, densely planted seedlings; has the best effect in the early hours of the day;
once every few days - for picked seedlings, which are watered taking into account the extent of soil drying;
once a week - for adult plants, such watering should be especially abundant so that the ground is well saturated with water.

As for the temperature of the water itself, it should be warm and slightly infused. It is also recommended to create a draft in the greenhouse for a while after watering; this will help reduce the level of air humidity.

Lack of light

Tomatoes are light-loving plants; they desperately need sunlight in order to develop normally and bear fruit. Often, insufficient light enters the greenhouse. If this factor is complemented by high humidity, it is therefore necessary to make a good ventilation system in the greenhouse as quickly as possible.

In the case of growing tomatoes out of season, there is also a shortage of light due to short daylight hours. Only appropriate additional lighting will help with this problem. These can be lamps with low-power fluorescent lamps, which are best hung over the seedlings and left on for 15-16 hours a day.

Some gardeners resort to small tricks. For example, if you spread white paper or a piece of foil on the floor of a greenhouse, they will act as a reflector, and the light intensity will increase several times. In this way, it is possible to obtain a positive effect without special costs.

Overheat

As you know, tomatoes are very heat-loving plants, but at the same time they are vulnerable to high temperatures, which is why the upper leaves of the tomatoes wither, the stems dry out and the whole plant weakens. If the temperature in the greenhouse reaches 38-40 degrees, the leaves may simply fall off, the plant stops growing, and development is inhibited.

Overheating is a fairly common mistake of many gardeners who are sure that the higher the temperature, the better the plants, but by doing this they are destroying them with their own hands. Experts say that the optimal temperature at which tomatoes will grow normally and bear fruit is 25-28 degrees during the day and 16-18 degrees at night. In order to monitor changes in temperature in the greenhouse, you should place a thermometer there.

Tomatoes are a rather demanding crop to care for, but if you understand everything and learn the main rules for caring for these wonderful plants, you will not be afraid of any diseases, and the harvest will always be generous, bringing joy to you and your loved ones.

Insufficient lighting

With insufficient light supply to tomato bushes, the foliage begins to shrink, lose its elasticity and firmness, yellow spots appear, the leaves dry out first at the tips, then completely, and as a result fall off. At the same time, the side branches of the tomatoes from the stem grow in length and become thinner at the top. The stage of formation of inflorescences in the plant begins to slow down or does not begin at all.

Fighting methods

Coping with the situation in this case is quite easy: you just need to eliminate the cause of the lack of lighting:

if tomatoes are grown in a greenhouse, light can be added by placing additional artificial sources,
if tomato bushes are planted in an insufficiently lit area in an open garden bed, you can remove closely spaced bushes and trees that block sunlight,
if it is impossible to create conditions for additional lighting by cutting down on unprotected ground, some resort to little tricks by installing reflective panels made of plywood sheets and covered with foil, or use mirror surfaces and foil insulation.

Growing tomatoes

If, with proper care, the leaves continue to turn yellow, the pinching was carried out incorrectly. With this problem, the leaves of all tomatoes turn yellow.

The formation of a bush should be done when the shoots are young. It is better to pick off the stepsons in the morning so that the wound has time to heal during daylight hours. The most favorable is dry, windless weather. The shoots that appear in the bosom of the trunk are removed.

You should work with gloves. The tool must be well sharpened.

How to solve a problem

First, about preventive measures that will prevent yellowing and changes in the structure of the leaves.

Prepare the soil for tomato seedlings

To do this, prepare a solution of copper sulfate in proportions of 70-80 grams of the active substance per 10 liters of clean water. Future beds must be treated with this mixture to kill all existing bacteria and prevent the tomatoes from drying out.

The success of your harvest depends on the soil, so you need to approach your choice as responsibly as possible. Change where tomatoes grow annually, and do not use beds where potatoes grew. These simple rules will protect your tomatoes and make them tastier.

Get rid of problem shoots

Late blight often causes detrimental changes to leaves as the disease debilitates the plant, causing leaves to turn yellow. To limit the potential for disease, remove drying tomatoes from the main garden bed until they feel better.

Old tops also need to be isolated from seedlings, as they can carry diseases and cause the leaves of new plants to dry out.

What to do if the tomatoes are still dry

First of all, do not panic and follow a number of simple steps:

Hill up the ground

This way you will raise the required level of moisture and kill possible parasites hiding in the soil. There should always be a layer of soil of 15 centimeters above the roots of the plants.

By hilling the soil, you enrich the soil with oxygen, which means you speed up and simplify the growth of tomatoes. Proper formation of tomatoes is impossible without regular, high-quality hilling.

Don't overdo it with watering

You need to develop a specific schedule according to which you will water the tomatoes. This way the plant will be able to absorb all the moisture correctly and in a timely manner, and it will be more convenient for you.

In most cases, weekly watering of 5 liters per plant is sufficient. The water should be warm, about 25 degrees. You should not water tomatoes in the heat, wait until it subsides. In summer, evening watering is preferable.

Monitor ventilation and lighting of the greenhouse

This way the leaves will not dry out and turn yellow. Tomato is a light-loving vegetable, remember this. Add artificial light sources if the need arises.

Feed the tomatoes

Especially do this at a young age when they really need calcium, nitrogen, phosphorus and magnesium.

Fertilizers using bromine may also be needed. For the complex addition of minerals, there are special preparations and feeds that should be placed in moist soil.

It is possible to use manure, but be careful, as untreated fertilizer may contain larvae of dangerous pests.

Hypothermia and overheating of tomatoes is a very dangerous phenomenon that needs to be dealt with as quickly as possible. In winter, tomatoes must be transferred to a greenhouse to prevent the plant from freezing and drying out.

Conclusion

There you have it, what you need to do to stop your tomatoes from drying out and turning yellow. Re-read the article again to make sure you understand all the subtleties and rules. Be vigilant, watch your plants, and then your harvest will be healthy and abundant. Good luck!

Preventive measures

Any disease, even if it concerns plants, is easier to prevent. A number of preventive measures will prevent the leaves of the seedlings from turning yellow and the seedlings themselves from withering and dying.

Buy quality seeds from a manufacturer you trust.
Choosing high-quality soil is no less important: if it is infected with a fungus, it is unlikely that it will be possible to prevent the plant from becoming infected.
Learn the rules for caring for tomato seedlings, their whims and preferences, and take care of them correctly.

If these measures are taken, then you most likely won’t have to look for answers to the questions of why tomato leaves wither and what to do to save them.

Having noticed that tomato seedlings are withering in a greenhouse equipped with the latest garden technology, there is no need to bury the future harvest in advance. There is no need to panic, even if a significant part of the tomato bushes are dying before our eyes. There are quite a lot of chances that the entire crop will not be lost.

There is no clear answer to the question of what to do to revive seedlings and prevent them from withering completely - it all depends on why the plants feel so bad. Most often, the reasons lie in improper care or the presence of a fungal infection that has affected the plants. Effective measures can be taken in any of these cases. If you do everything correctly, you will definitely reap a harvest of tomatoes, even if not as large as you expected.

Damaged roots

You may suspect that the plant's rhizome is in danger if only the lower leaves have changed. Otherwise, the tomato has a blooming appearance.

Probably, the damage occurred due to the fault of the gardener, who handled the tomato carelessly, using the hoe too actively. The rhizome consists of an elongated central root, with the help of which the plant absorbs moisture from the bottom of the soil during drought, and a cluster of small feeding roots at the very top of the underground layer. When weeding the soil, gardeners often touch this system.

Mulching technique

To protect the layer, you can use the mulching technique, then during loosening the chances of touching the rhizome will be significantly reduced. In the meantime, you will have to wait for the damaged elements to grow back and the tomato to recover. But there’s nothing you can do about the leaves—you can only tear them off if the tomatoes turn yellow and dry out.

How to prevent leaf curl

Very often, tomato leaves curl. In hot weather they have little moisture, and curled leaves evaporate less. To fix this, you need to water it properly. There is no need to pour all the water under the bush at once. It is necessary to water in two steps. First pour about 2 liters, and then another 3 liters.

Advice: there is no need to water frequently; it is better to loosen and cover with mulch to prevent the soil from drying out.

Why else can leaves curl?

If unrotted manure was introduced, then the root system is inhibited. The leaves begin to curl and the bush withers.
Insufficient feeding can also cause wilting. Do not get carried away with nitrogen fertilizers, otherwise the tomatoes will begin to fatten.
If all the plantings began to die, then they were affected by late blight. If a disease is noticed, it must be treated immediately.
The greenhouse must be ventilated. And also make sure that the tomatoes are not eaten by aphids and whiteflies.
You should not pick off many shoots and leaves at one time. The plant will be sick.

Feeding and fertilizers

Another reason why leaves of seedlings and adult bushes dry out is a lack or excess of nutrients in the soil. Proper feeding is very important for plant health. The concentration of fertilizers should not be exceeded, but the norms should also not be reduced, since in both cases developmental disturbances begin to occur.

Thus, excess nitrogen in the soil leads to increased growth of green mass, but the vegetative process is not endless, and when the plant runs out of strength, tomato leaves begin to lose color, curl and dry out.

Nitrogen deficiency also immediately affects the condition of the plants, the leaves become dull, brittle, break off easily, the lower tier dries out and falls off. Excess nitrogen can be neutralized by applying potassium and phosphorus fertilizers (ash, superphosphate). If there is a deficiency of the element, you need to feed the tomatoes with urea, ammonium nitrate or organic solutions.

Potassium deficiency is indicated by dry tops and tips of leaves.
Most often, the leaves of tomato seedlings dry out due to a lack of this element in the substrate. The situation can be corrected by adding ash, preferably in the form of a solution, or any potash fertilizer. Tomato leaves can curl and dry out due to a lack of certain microelements (magnesium, boron), which can be replenished with microfertilizers or complex mixtures. The yellowing and drying of leaves on seedlings can be caused by soil salinity, which can be judged by a white coating on the surface and too dense soil consistency. This problem is typical for reused substrates that have already been fertilized. The cause of salinity may be watering plants with hard water. The situation can be corrected by adding good soil, temporarily stopping the application of fertilizers and watering with high-quality water.

The leaves of the tomato seedlings turned yellow due to violation of growing rules

If you do not properly care for your tomato seedlings, do not follow the rules of their maintenance and make mistakes in care, this can also affect the color of its foliage changing from green to yellow.

Watering and humidity

Infrequent and scanty watering (not abundant enough) can lead to tomato leaves beginning to wither, turn yellow and dry out (wither) from lack of moisture.

At the same time, excess soil moisture and stagnation of moisture due to poor drainage can lead to damage to the roots, a decrease in their ability to absorb nutrients from the soil, and as a result, yellowing of the leaves of the seedlings, reduced growth energy and wilting.

Temperature

If the soil and air temperatures drop below the recommended level, tomato seedlings simply stop growing and experience a so-called “physiological drought,” which is characterized by the fact that the roots stop supplying water and nutrients to the plant, which leads to its premature aging and active yellowing of the leaves. .

On the contrary, excessively high temperature

(over +30..35) can cause wilting and curling of seedling leaves, as well as marginal necrosis of leaves.

Short daylight hours or sunburn

Due to a lack of solar energy (too short daylight hours), photosynthesis processes in the leaf system of the plant are inhibited, tomato leaves begin to become paler, and the seedlings themselves stretch out (reach towards the light).

Therefore, you should not sow tomatoes for seedlings too early, when the daylight hours are not yet long enough (less than 12 hours), or you need to supplement the lighting yourself with special lamps.

On the contrary, if your seedlings are located on a southern windowsill, then in direct sunlight its leaves may get sunburned. Including due to the ingress of water drops when watering the plant.

Bad soil

Poor quality and unsuitable soil can cause the growth of seedlings to slow down and the foliage to appear yellow.

So, for example, if the substrate was prepared without adding a baking powder (sand or perlite), this can lead to the fact that after each watering the soil in the pot clumps into a solid heavy lump, and this does not allow roots to develop.

If the soil is not loose (not air- and moisture-absorbing), then this can again cause suffocation of the roots, due to which they will not receive the required amount of oxygen.

Seedlings are too crowded in seedling containers

Often, seedlings stop growing due to the fact that its root system has already mastered the entire feeding area and has outgrown the planting capacity, which is why it simply does not have enough space for further growth and development.

Obviously, you pulled the tomato seedlings into new, larger containers.

Unsuccessful transplant (picking)

Quite often, inaccurate and poorly carried out picking (transplanting plants into separate containers) causes yellowing of the leaves of tomato seedlings, during which you damaged the root system, which is why the plant cannot receive food normally.

Therefore, after picking, it is advisable to feed the seedlings with one of the root formation and growth stimulants to relieve plant stress (for example, Kornevin, Zircon or Epin).

Often, tomato seedlings turn yellow immediately after planting in open ground. This, for example, may be due to the fact that you did not adapt the plants to environmental conditions (did not harden them), they were planted in unheated soil, or recurrent spring frosts occurred.