Why do tomato leaves dry out and turn yellow in a greenhouse: determine the reasons

Reasons why leaves on tomatoes dry out and turn yellow

Growing tomatoes is a painstaking process that requires a lot of effort, time and, of course, patience. It is especially difficult for beginner vegetable growers who do not have practical experience in agricultural technology in general for vegetable crops.

Tomatoes are grown both in open and closed ground. Those tomatoes that develop in greenhouse conditions are better protected from negative environmental influences. For example, bad weather. Tomatoes growing in a greenhouse do not need to be further protected from strong winds, sun or unexpected frosts. In some ways, care in such conditions is easier. It is enough to create the desired microclimate.

However, there are difficulties when growing tomatoes in a greenhouse. One of the common problems is drying and yellowing of leaves on tomatoes in a greenhouse. These are two different problems.

Often appear simultaneously or one after another. For example, first the leaves turn yellow and then dry out, or vice versa.

The content of the article:

1. What tomatoes need 2. Reasons why tomato leaves dry and turn yellow in a greenhouse 2.1 Microclimate in a greenhouse 3. Why leaves of tomatoes growing in a greenhouse dry out 3.1 Temperature and humidity 3.2 Lack of nutrients or excessive feeding of tomatoes 4. Possible diseases of tomatoes leading to to yellowing of leaves 5. How to help tomatoes 6. Damage to tomatoes by insect pests 7. Reasons for the appearance of yellowness on the leaves of tomatoes growing in a greenhouse 7.1 Injuries to the root system of tomatoes 7.2 Frequency of watering 7.3 With a lack of moisture 7.4 With excess moisture 7.5 Unbalanced plant nutrition 8. Diseases tomatoes, leading to yellowing of leaves 9. Damage to tomatoes by insect pests and yellowing of foliage

How to process tomatoes

After discovering the reason that provoked the change in the shade of the plate, measures begin to be taken. First, factors that affect temperature, humidity and watering are regulated. For full development, tomatoes need a temperature of at least + 20°. Early ripening varieties can tolerate lower temperatures; in case of frost, the crop is additionally covered. Watering is regular: the bushes are watered at least twice a week.

Information! Excessive moisture requires immediate cessation of watering. Further treatments are carried out after the soil dries.

lower leaves of tomatoes are yellow

With a lack of nutrients

After discovering a lack of nutrients, gardeners recommend using complex products.

Nitroammophoska . This is a drug created on the basis of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Suitable for feeding when there is a lack of elements or as a preventive measure. When choosing nitroammophoska, take into account that the product provokes the formation of nitrates in the soil. The dose of the product used depends entirely on the growing season and the degree of damage to the plates.

Kemira . A preparation based on nitrogen, calcium, phosphorus with a high potassium content. The peculiarity and advantage of the product is its application to the soil in the form of dry granules. When watering, the granules dissolve and saturate the substrate with useful elements. In addition to using common mineral complexes, one-component fertilizers or mixtures prepared independently are applied. Folk remedies act quickly and are no less effective than those purchased in agricultural stores:

Eggshells are a source of calcium, silicon, fluorine, and sulfur. The dried shells of chicken eggs are crushed to a crumbly state, scattered on the surface of the soil under the bushes and lightly dug in. The second application option is to pour boiling water over the shells, crushed to a dusty state, leave for 7 days, then apply root watering with this mixture.

Banana peels are a source of phosphorus and potassium. Experienced gardeners claim that using bananas when growing tomatoes not only helps get rid of signs of yellowing, but also improves the taste of the fruit. The peel is cut into small pieces, dried and buried around the bushes.

Nettle is a nutritious fertilizer used for a lack of calcium, silicon, and iron. About 1 kg of freshly cut nettle stems is poured into 10 liters of water and infused for 2 weeks. Root feeding is carried out at the rate of 10 liters per 1 bush.

When insects are detected

The appearance of insects causes the tomato leaf to begin to turn yellow and curl. Treatment in the presence of parasites differs significantly from fertilizing when identifying nutritional deficiencies. The condition for successfully getting rid of parasites is the timely detection of larvae and adults on the plant.

tomato leaves turn yellow and dry out

The pest that causes the tomato leaf to turn yellow and begin to dry out is aphids. Individuals appear on bushes in summer and actively reproduce, leaving clutches of eggs. After detection of aphids, the bushes are subjected to step-by-step processing:

• each bottom leaf of the tomato is washed with a stream of water;
• sprayed with Karbofos solution;
• water the soil with infusion of wormwood, scatter pieces of eggshells.

Advice! Karbofos can be replaced with a solution of bleach.

Root-knot nematode attacks the root system of tomatoes. The plant begins to wilt and the leaves turn yellow. It seems that the bush does not have enough nutrients. The nematode is discovered only when excavating the soil. The root system turns out to be damaged, weak and unable to exist. You can get rid of the nematode only in the early stages of its appearance. To do this, water with solutions containing onions and garlic. The drug "Fitoverm" is effective.

For diseases

The tomato is susceptible to late blight; this disease causes yellowing and then rapid drying of the leaf blades. The type of change can be seen in more detail in photos or videos of experienced gardeners. For processing the following is used:

Fitosporin. A product belonging to the group of organic biofungicides. Fitosporin solutions are sprayed on bushes during different periods of the growing season. This must be done at least twice per season.

Bordeaux mixture. A product that you prepare yourself: 100 g of copper sulfate is mixed with 150 g of slaked lime and dissolved in 10 liters of water.

What do tomatoes need?

It’s worth saying a few words about what is required for tomato crops cultivated in greenhouse conditions.

Photo of yellowing foliage of tomatoes

Requirements:

1. systematic watering;
2. maintaining the required humidity level (60 – 70%);
3. monitoring the temperature inside the greenhouse (from +23 to 30 degrees);
4. ensuring sufficient access to light, excluding direct rays of the sun.

These conditions need to be created already at the initial stage of seedlings. From time to time it is necessary to carefully inspect the tomato bushes in order to take timely action if a problem is detected, for example, yellowing of the leaves.

Caring for tomatoes in a greenhouse - video

Important!

Drying and yellowing on tomato leaves is a serious problem that you need to immediately pay attention to and start looking for the cause of its appearance.

Tomatoes: what kind of culture?

The homeland of tomatoes is South America. This is an annual heat-loving plant of the Solanaceae family. Characteristics:

• stem - erect, slightly pubescent;
• flowers - yellow;
• ovaries - elongated, spherical;
• The fruits are round and juicy.

Tomatoes are fastidious plants. They need plenty of warmth and light. The optimal temperature for seed germination is +25-27 degrees, so in Russian conditions it is better to plant seedlings in greenhouses in early spring, because the growing season and development are quite long.

It is equally important to provide greenhouse tomato seedlings with adequate lighting. But the plants are undemanding when it comes to moisture, but you need to water them in moderation, otherwise the fruits will dry out and crack, and the ovaries will fall off.

The seedlings will become frail, weak, and unstable to fungal diseases.

Note! The leaves begin to turn yellow immediately when the root system is damaged or the seedlings outgrow. If you initially plant early, then when planted in open ground the root system will be thinned and tangled into a lump.

Reasons why tomato leaves dry and turn yellow in a greenhouse

Yellowing and drying of tomato leaves occurs for various reasons. Some only lead to yellowing, others lead to drying and curling of the leaves. In both cases, it is important to maintain the microclimate in the greenhouse, so this reason can be attributed to both cases.

Why do tomato leaves turn yellow in a greenhouse - video

Microclimate in the greenhouse

An inappropriate microclimate inside the greenhouse can destroy all tomato plantings.

The first thing you need to do is understand the construction of a greenhouse structure and follow the following rules:

1. You need to build a greenhouse in a place well protected from the winds. Preference should be given to a site surrounded by buildings or garden plantings of appropriate height, for example, tall trees and shrubs. This is especially true during lunch, when the scorching sun is present. Such rays will heat the greenhouse and increase the temperature inside it in some cases to +45 degrees. The ovaries and flowers will begin to shed and yellowness will form on the leaves of the tomatoes.
2. Replace the soil annually. After all, it is in it that fungal spores, bacteria, and infectious pathogens settle. When it is not possible to completely change the soil, it is spilled with a solution of potassium permanganate or boiling water a couple of days before placing tomato seedlings in it.
3. When spring comes, disinfect structural elements, including treating all tools used in the greenhouse.
4. Periodically you need to ventilate the greenhouse with tomatoes to evaporate excess moisture.
5. If necessary, increase the humidity by simply spraying with a spray bottle. You can simply install open containers filled with water.
6. Create a heating system that can be used if necessary.

Let's choose tomatoes!
Tomato Country delicacy Tomato Pride of Siberia Tomato King of the Giants
Attention!

The most favorable environment for the proliferation of fungi and infections is humidity and warmth. This applies more to the greenhouse, since it is here that there is such a problem as high humidity and high air temperature.

How to treat seedlings

Why do pear leaves turn yellow in May?

If you do not take urgent and adequate measures to correct the current situation, the tomatoes may die. First of all, you should try to adapt the sluggish yellowed seedlings, for which:

• spray with phosphate fertilizer (weak solution);
• feed constantly until new leaves grow and the plant is completely restored, saturated with nutrients (nitrate, chloride, phosphate);
• treat the root system with a store-bought stimulant to form new roots.

Note! Experts advise feeding tomatoes with complex fertilizers. Using traditional methods, you can prepare a stock solution of chicken droppings and water the beds. If a stimulant is used, then treatments must be carried out strictly according to the instructions.

Phosphate fertilizer

Basic methods for eliminating errors if tomatoes turn yellow after planting in a greenhouse:

• If the lower leaves of a row and the stem of seedlings turn yellow due to damage to the root system or careless loosening of the soil, then use Kornevin for watering. To reanimate the roots, you can spray the tomato bushes with complex fertilizer.
• Drying and yellowing of leaves due to overheating of seedlings or sudden temperature changes (which often happens during the day and at night in greenhouses, when the leaves begin to turn yellow and dry, lose their elasticity, and the root system weakens) - it is necessary to stabilize the temperature in the greenhouse, place a barrel next to the seedlings with water. So the water will heat up during the daytime and absorb heat, and release it back at night.
• High acidity and heavy soil harm seedlings. When yellowness appears, you should pay attention to the soil. Before planting tomatoes in the greenhouse, prepare a mixture of peat, garden soil, sifted river sand and ash. Till the soil, dig up. If it is noticed that the soil begins to sour and the water begins to stagnate, then the situation can be prevented if after each watering you loosen the soil, thus normalizing the acidity level.
• If the leaves turn yellow due to a lack of nitrogen, it is worth fermenting the soil with fermented mullein. Prepare a solution: water (20 l.), mullein (1 l.) or spray the bushes with a solution of potassium permanganate containing warm water (10 l.), manganese (1 tbsp.).

Tomato leaves acquire a marbled color due to a lack of iron in the soil. You can make up for the deficiency by adding manure solution and ash (1*10). Experts also recommend taking forest soil, for example, collected near a maple tree, for planting tomatoes in polycarbonate greenhouses. It is this kind of soil that will become balanced and nutritious for tomatoes.

Why do the leaves of tomatoes growing in a greenhouse dry out: possible reasons

Let's try to figure out, based on certain signs, what is the reason for the yellowing of the leaves and tops of tomatoes that affected your garden.

Temperature and humidity

A common cause of drying and curling of tomato leaves is increased air temperature from +35 degrees, lack of sufficient oxygen and lighting.

Photo of curling tomato leaves

Worth remembering!

The lack of light has a more destructive effect on the condition of tomatoes than heat. Therefore, for example, in those areas of the country where daylight hours are short, it is necessary to additionally use artificial lighting.

Lack of nutrients or excessive feeding of tomatoes

The next reason:
lack or excess of microelements and other nutrients. An important reason for wilting of tomato leaves is improper application of fertilizers. Excessive fertilization with organic matter, nitrogen, and herbal infusions is common. In such cases, the leaves begin to dry either from the edges or from the center.

Photo of excess nitrogen in tomatoes

When there is too much nitrogen, a rapid growth of green mass begins and the flowers drop. To restore the balance, water or spray with a solution of wood ash. Potassium fertilizers are sometimes used.

A lack of nitrogen is more dangerous for tomatoes, as it can lead to their death.

Photo of signs of potassium deficiency in tomatoes

Potassium deficiency also leads to yellowing of the green mass. This is the first sign that the soil lacks this microelement. To compensate for the deficiency, tree ash, potassium nitrate and other fertilizers are used.

Emergency help

If in the evening the tomatoes pleased the eye with their strong stems and sufficiently developed foliage, preparing for flowering or active fruiting, and the next day yellowness appears, start acting:

• Open the greenhouse for ventilation - be sure to monitor the temperature in the greenhouse, since cold, like heat, negatively affects the growing season. It is better to ventilate between 11 and 15 o'clock in the afternoon, when the air is warm enough.
• Check the soil moisture - if it is too wet, you can scatter sand near the root zone, which will quickly absorb water. The lack of irrigation is compensated by watering with warm, settled water with the addition of potassium fertilizers.
• Inspect the plant, especially the foliage - if curls and black spots appear, remove the leaf using a utility knife, cutting it from the main stem. The cut area must be treated with brilliant green or sprinkled with ash. Damaged foliage should be removed from the greenhouse and burned away from the plantings.

Expert opinion

Mishina Valentina Georgievna

Gardener with 20 years of experience and rich experience

If time is lost and almost the entire tomato bush has turned yellow, then it should be removed along with the root. This forced measure will help protect neighboring bushes if the cause is late blight.

• Carry out unscheduled fertilizing with potassium phosphate fertilizers - dilute a small amount of fertilizer in warm water and pour it under the bush (at least 1 liter).
• Avoid fertilizing with fresh manure, which can cause burns to the root system, which will appear on the foliage.
• Reduce the humidity in the greenhouse; if drip irrigation is installed, it should be temporarily turned off.
• If the temperature in the greenhouse is above 30°C, then the plants are additionally shaded.

Always maintain the concentration of fertilizers per 1 liter of water. An excess of potassium and magnesium can negatively affect the condition of the tomato, causing foliage burns.

The most important point is the treatment of the damaged bush. Regardless of whether late blight or fusarium is present, yellow foliage is a reason to carry out unscheduled spraying with antifungal and antibacterial agents. Experienced specialists recommend using simple but very effective substances when identifying abundant foci of yellowing.

Furacilin and boron

Furacilin

Bor

Place 10 Furacilin tablets in a glass of boiling water and stir vigorously until completely dissolved. In another container, mix 2 g of boric acid powder and 100 ml of hot water. These two substances are mixed together, and then combined with 5 liters of warm, settled water.

Boron activates metabolic processes in the above-ground part of the tomato, improves the conductivity of nutrients and increases their metabolism. Furacilin exhibits pronounced antiseptic properties, destroying pathogenic flora.

Expert opinion

Mishina Valentina Georgievna

Gardener with 20 years of experience and rich experience

To improve the adhesion of the solution to the water, add 1 tablespoon of liquid soap or dishwashing detergent before spraying. The ideal option is liquid tar soap, which enhances the antibacterial effect.

Spraying is carried out in the first half of the day so that the product is absorbed as quickly as possible, and the plant dries out and does not experience waterlogging. The remaining solution can be poured under the most affected bushes.

Treatment is carried out once every 3-4 days, constantly monitoring the condition of the tomatoes. The formation of late blight in the form of black rot indicates the need to completely remove the infected bush from the greenhouse.

Toothpaste and onion peel decoction

Toothpaste

Onion peel

Place half a glass of onion peels in a metal container. Pour in water and cook over low heat for 15 minutes, let cool, then filter. Add 1 tablespoon of toothpaste and a few drops of dishwashing detergent. Dilute the resulting product in 1 liter of warm water. Spray the bushes, paying special attention to the inside of the leaf.

This treatment is effective against aphids and other pests that feed on plant sap. These parasites spread various infections, so spraying solves several problems at once: it disinfects, repels and restores nutrition to damaged foliage.

Biological products and pesticides

The following remedies are the best and relatively safe:

"Fitoverm"

Dilute in water, spray not only yellowed, but also healthy leaves. Repeated treatment is carried out after 3 days.

"Aktofit"

Normalizes the microflora of the leaf surface, suppressing harmful bacteria.

If these drugs turn out to be ineffective, and the yellowing intensifies and spreads to neighboring bushes, the following pesticides should be used:

"Aktara"

The product is effective against almost all types of tomato diseases, increases the plant’s immunity, and helps stop late blight, preventing large-scale spread of rot throughout the greenhouse.

"Spark"

You can independently adjust the concentration, depending on the extent of the damage to the bush.

"Biotlin"

It has a prolonged effect, consolidating the antibacterial effect for 1-2 weeks.

Be sure to read the instructions before using pesticides, and also follow the precautions recommended by the manufacturer. When spraying indoors, it is important to use respiratory protection and avoid contact of the substance with the skin.

Possible diseases of tomatoes leading to yellowing of tomato leaves and their wilting

Dry leaves can be a consequence of tomatoes being damaged by tobacco mosaic, late blight, curl virus, or fusarium wilt.

How to identify tomato disease by leaf - video

Tobacco mosaic.

The first sign of the disease is the appearance of spots on the leaves, which gradually spread to the entire plant and affect the fruits themselves, making them unsuitable for food consumption. When a disease is detected, you need to take action immediately, because its development occurs very quickly.

Photo of tobacco mosaic on tomatoes

Late blight.

It is a fungal disease. It is quite common among vegetable crops. The very first sign is the appearance of a white coating on the leaf plate. The lower parts of the leaves become dark, spots appear on them, and the leaves dry out and fall off.

Photo of late blight in tomatoes

Fusarium (or fusarium wilt)

can destroy tomatoes. The fungus penetrates through the soil into the root system and gradually spreads to the entire plant, penetrating the foliage and fruits. If the disease is present, you may notice rapid wilting, curling and falling of the lower leaves.

Photo of fusarium (or fusarium wilt)

Curly virus

is a viral disease that also causes tomato leaves to curl and wilt. First, you can notice a change in the color of the leaves, shredding of the green mass, and its curling.

Photo of curly hair virus

Reasons for yellowing of tomato leaves

We are not talking about natural processes. It is clear that old leaves die off over time, having previously given up everything valuable to the bush for further development. But yellowing of leaves may have completely different reasons:

• damage to roots or their improper functioning;
• incorrect light mode;
• watering errors;
• lack of nutrition;
• hypothermia;
• diseases.

1. Impaired functioning of the root system occurs when tomatoes “sit” in a container that is too small. In this case, the roots intertwine into a dense lump and stop developing. If the seedlings are not transplanted into a large container in a timely manner, the plants may even die.
2. Leaves may turn yellow and dry if the roots are damaged during replanting or loosening. The situation can no longer be corrected. We just have to wait until the wounds heal and the roots can function at full strength again. After this, the yellow foliage turns green again.
3. Yellowing of leaves occurs when the planting is too dense and the plants do not have enough light. This problem can only be solved by thinning the bushes. Due to excess sunlight, tomatoes can also turn yellow; if the plants receive too much sun, they need to be shaded.
4. With a lack of moisture, the seedlings begin to turn yellow and dry out, and the leaves can even fall off. This happens when seedlings or adult plants are not regularly watered, especially if the weather is hot and dry. Excess moisture also causes leaves to turn yellow, because too damp soil prevents the roots from properly absorbing food and deprives them of oxygen. Tomatoes love abundant, but rather rare watering at the root.
5. Tomato leaves may turn yellow due to lack of nitrogen. It is this element that is responsible for the active growth of green mass and the bright color of the foliage. Tomato leaves not only turn yellow, but also become smaller or take on a whitish appearance. A lack of potassium and phosphorus also negatively affects the state of the vegetative mass.
6. Tomatoes are a heat-loving crop, so they react acutely to hypothermia. Most often this happens when there is an unexpected cold snap immediately after planting seedlings in the ground. To avoid this, follow the timing of planting tomatoes in the greenhouse and open ground, and also take into account weather conditions. If tomatoes “freeze”, their leaves will immediately turn yellow.
7. Yellowing of foliage may be a symptom of artnactosis or fusarium wilt. The fungus penetrates the tissue of the bush during growth from untreated seeds. The source of infection can also be soil or applied fertilizer. The leaves will look lifeless and limp, as if the plant has not been watered, although watering may have been done just a few hours ago. It is better to carry out preventive treatments in advance, without leading to the development of the disease.

How to help tomatoes

The first thing to do is isolate the damaged parts of the plants and burn them.

Tomato disease!
Top rot of tomatoes in a greenhouse
The second thing is to treat the plants with chemicals in case of severe damage in accordance with the instructions.

When the disease has not yet spread, non-traditional “folk” remedies are used.

Third, remember that prevention is better than cure, and therefore take preventive measures:

• maintain a favorable microclimate in the greenhouse (temperature, humidity);
• Carry out proper, systematic care (watering, fertilizing tomatoes).

Prevention will strengthen the immunity of tomatoes, and accordingly, minimize the risk of disease.

Why do tomato leaves turn yellow after planting?

Transplanting a tomato to a permanent place is perhaps the most crucial moment in growing tomatoes. Even if the seedlings were initially strong and seemingly healthy, they can seriously deteriorate in the new soil.

Poor soil quality. The quality of the soil plays a decisive role in the survival of plants in a new place. If the soil, or rather its composition, is unsuitable, then the seedlings will not only not take root, but will even die

For tomatoes grown in a greenhouse, it is especially important to prepare a balanced soil mixture that will also be sterile. Tomatoes prefer loose and semi-moist soil, enriched with organic matter and a portion of minerals. The pH level should be neutral

If the soil is not provided with everything it needs, the rapidly developing root system will have nowhere to get food, which will immediately affect the appearance of the plants: the foliage will turn yellow and become colorless. In addition, pathogenic microflora often accumulate in greenhouse soil, which overwinters comfortably in warm conditions, and in the spring begins to rapidly multiply and take over plantings. To prevent the appearance of dangerous insects, the soil must be disinfected. Incorrect watering. It is extremely undesirable to water tomatoes for the first 7-10 days, since the plants are taking root. If you constantly flood them, the leaves will wither and become yellow and lifeless. Root damage. The most common mistake leading to plant oppression is improper replanting, during which the roots break off. In order for the damaged part to begin functioning again, the plant needs up to two weeks. Hypothermia. If the seedlings were planted early, then it is possible that return frosts will cause hypothermia. Frozen seedlings will wither and turn yellow. You can exclude such a course of events by first covering the bed with warm material or equipping the greenhouse with a heating device

The pH level should be neutral. If the soil is not provided with everything it needs, the rapidly developing root system will have nowhere to get food, which will immediately affect the appearance of the plants: the foliage will turn yellow and become colorless. In addition, pathogenic microflora often accumulate in greenhouse soil, which overwinters comfortably in warm conditions, and in the spring begins to rapidly multiply and take over plantings. To prevent the appearance of dangerous insects, the soil must be disinfected. Incorrect watering. It is extremely undesirable to water tomatoes for the first 7-10 days, since the plants are taking root. If you constantly flood them, the leaves will wither and become yellow and lifeless. Root damage. The most common mistake leading to plant oppression is improper replanting, during which the roots break off. In order for the damaged part to begin functioning again, the plant needs up to two weeks. Hypothermia. If the seedlings were planted early, then it is possible that return frosts will cause hypothermia. Frozen seedlings will wither and turn yellow. You can exclude such a course of events by first covering the bed with warm material or equipping the greenhouse with a heating device.

Damage to tomatoes by insect pests

Insect pests are another reason why tomato leaves may dry out.

To determine the type of pest, you need to carefully examine the underside of the leaf blade. The most common causes of this problem are aphids, whiteflies, and spider mites.

Small black individuals localized in the folds of the plant are aphids.

It is very dangerous because it feeds not only on plant sap. The insect injects a substance into the plant itself, which leads to a change and disruption of the shape of the tomatoes.

Photo of aphids on tomatoes

Whiteflies live in entire colonies and are represented by small white insects. The larvae eat almost all the green mass. Their waste products are dangerous for tomatoes, as they infect them with fungus.

Photo of whiteflies on tomatoes

Spider mites are located on the bottom of the leaves

and is capable of infecting all tomatoes in just a few weeks.

Photo of spider mites on tomatoes

To combat pests, specialized insecticides, digging, soil replacement, and mulching are used.

Insect damage

The reason why tomato leaves curl and turn yellow may be insect pests. By carefully examining young foliage, they can be easily detected. Black aphids settle on leaves, stems and petioles. Mole crickets and wireworms destroy tomato roots. The whitefly feeds on plant sap. You need to know what to do if tomato leaves turn yellow in a greenhouse due to an insect invasion, and what protective measures should be used.

Medvedka

The insect often attacks garden crops, gnawing on their roots. If a mole cricket gets into a greenhouse, tomatoes become its victims. She chews through the stems and tears out the roots.

Tomatoes stop developing, the leaves turn yellow, and the plants may die. Despite its underground lifestyle, the mole cricket is capable of swimming and flying over considerable distances. Birds are not scary for her, since the insect is active only at night. It is especially common in loose, humus-rich, well-manured soil.

Fighting a mole cricket is quite difficult. The approach should be comprehensive, including several methods simultaneously. It is good when the fight against insects is carried out in neighboring areas, since there are no barriers for the insect. Among the main methods of destroying or repelling the pest:

• manure traps;
• shadow baits;
• planting marigolds;
• repelling with strong odors (garlic, missing fish, onions);
• adding ash and eggshells to the hole when planting;
• use of chemicals (“Thunder”, “Medvetox”, “Grizzly”).

Granules of the preparations are laid out when planting seedlings in a greenhouse.

Important! Chemicals are strong poisons. When using them, safety precautions must be observed.

Wireworm

The worm-like larva of the click beetle, about 3 cm long, is called a wireworm.

It has a hard, shiny brown body. In winter, it burrows into the soil to a depth of 50 cm. For three years, the larvae grow and feed intensively, and in the fourth year they make a burrow and pupate. In April, beetles hatch from the pupae, fly out and lay eggs, from which a new army of wireworms emerges.

The pest eats flowers, gnaws the stems and roots of tomatoes, and they gradually turn yellow and dry.

Important! It is believed that the wireworm does not touch tomatoes of dark raspberry and pink varieties.

Pest control comes down to agrotechnical practices and the use of chemicals:

• destruction of weeds (wheatgrass and burdock);
• loosening the soil;
• growing mustard, rapeseed, buckwheat, spinach on the plot;
• making traps
• reducing soil acidity in the greenhouse;
• the use of insecticides (Bazudin, Kapkan, Karate, Metarizin, Diazinon).

Important! All chemicals are used only if the dosages are strictly observed, so as not to have a strong toxic effect on the soil, crops and the human body.

Nematode

A 1 mm long worm, a pest of tomatoes and other vegetable crops, is called a nematode.

In a greenhouse with tomatoes, it forms nodules on the roots. The plant turns yellow, lags behind in development, looks depressed and later dies. The pest can only be detected by digging up the bush. The first sign of nematode damage is the wilting of the plant during the day, in sunny weather. After some time, the roots of the damaged bushes turn green and “crawl” to the surface.

The pest is very dangerous. At the first signs of damage, the plants are dug up and burned, and the soil is spilled with boiling water. In the fall, the greenhouse is sown with grain crops, and before frost, it is dug up, embedding the seedlings in the ground. Under such conditions, the nematode freezes out.

To combat the pest, the chemicals Lindane, Methyl Bromide, and Nemagon are used.

Among biological agents, the drugs “Nematophagin”, “Fitoverm P”, “Trichodermin” have the most powerful effect.

Important! Biological agents are slightly toxic to humans. The effect on pests is their paralysis and death.

Tobacco aphid

Tobacco, or peach, aphids appear on tomatoes if there is a peach orchard next to the greenhouse. The pest overwinters in the buds of fruit trees. In the spring, aphids migrate to tomatoes, and at the end of summer they return back to winter.

Aphids attack young tomato foliage, shoots, buds and flowers. Feeding on the plant, the pest sucks the juice from the leaves, which turn yellow, curl, and become deformed. In addition to the harm caused by their vital activity, aphids carry fungal and viral diseases.

To destroy tobacco aphids on tomatoes in a greenhouse, chemical agents are used: “Biotlin” (destroys adult individuals and their eggs), “Akarin” (contact-intestinal action), “Iskra” (broad-spectrum agent).

Among the most commonly used folk remedies:

• soap-ash solution;
• garlic infusion;
• celandine decoction.

Reasons for the appearance of yellowness on the leaves of tomatoes growing in a greenhouse

The appearance of yellowness on leaves can occur for various reasons.

Are your tomato leaves starting to turn yellow? What is the reason and what to do? - video

Here are the most common ones:

• inappropriate humidity and temperature conditions;
• non-compliance with the regularity and measures of watering (lack or excess);
• presence of damage to the root system;
• soil composition insufficiently enriched with useful substances;
• plant infection by fungus or bacteria.

All of the above factors can lead to yellowing of the leaves. First you need to establish the cause, and then choose a treatment. In each individual case, treatment will be different.

Injuries to the root system of tomatoes

Tomatoes have a very developed root system. Tomato roots can reach up to 1.5 meters in length, so the crop thrives during dry periods. Some of the roots are above the soil surface and therefore require systematic watering.

Causes of damage to the root system:

• At the seedling stage, containers for growing tomatoes that are too small are used, which leads to curling of the roots and reduces the ability to take root after planting in a new place.
• If the seedlings overgrow, adaptation also becomes difficult, which leads to the appearance of yellowness on the tomato leaves.
• Presence of insect pests. The most dangerous are wireworms and mole crickets.

How to help:
for better adaptation to new conditions, you need to fertilize tomato plants by spraying the foliage with a spray bottle.

Watering frequency

When yellowing begins at the bottom of the leaves of a plant and gradually spreads higher, the cause may be too wet soil or a lack of moisture in the soil. With a lack and excess of moisture, yellowing of tomato leaves manifests itself in different ways.

In case of lack of moisture

When tomatoes don’t have enough moisture, cracks appear in the soil, the shoots themselves become drooping, lethargic, and the leaves begin to droop.

Attention!

Some vegetable growers make the mistake of immediately increasing watering when yellowing is detected on tomato leaves. There is no need to do this. And if there are fruits, even more so. High humidity will cause cracking of the tomato crop.

If the soil is dry, smooth and gradual watering is carried out, that is, the humidity is increased gradually. And to avoid cracking of tomatoes, phosphorus fertilizers are applied to the soil.

EXCELLENT VARIETIES OF TOMATOES!
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With excess moisture

When the soil is waterlogged, this also has a bad effect on the condition of the tomatoes and foliage.

This manifests itself in the following:

• siltation of the soil, the appearance of moss;
• shoots become elastic;
• foci of infection appear on tomato plants.

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To reduce soil moisture, you need to follow several rules when watering:

• watering in the early morning or late evening (before 06:00 and after 18:00);
• use settled water at room temperature for irrigation;
• Avoid getting water on the leaves and fruits of tomatoes, water at the root (or carry out drip irrigation);
• Water regularly, often 2 times a week is enough.

Attention!

Young plants need more water. As the culture matures, reduce its quantity.

Unbalanced plant nutrition

Leaves can equally turn yellow on tomatoes both in case of shortage and in case of excess of nutrients. All that is required is to apply fertilizing in a timely manner and periodically inspect the seedlings.

What tomatoes lack - Lack of nutrients - video

It is the leaves that signal whether the plant is receiving enough nutrients.

With yellowing of the lower leaves and lethargy of shoots, slow formation of shoots, as well as small size of leaves, absence of inflorescences, the tomato plant lacks such a microelement as nitrogen.

To eliminate it, add either nitrophoska or another mixture containing nitrogen in the composition.

With a lack of potassium, many light spots appear on tomato leaves

, which gradually grow and turn into one light spot that covers the entire leaf blade. Add potassium supplements.

When the leaves located at the top of the plant look drooping, the tomatoes need to be fed with manganese

, for which wood ash or cow dung is used.

Lack of sulfur leads to yellowing of tomato leaves.

They begin to dry and wither and at the same time become dense.

Copper deficiency

affects only old leaves and appears yellowish.

What to do if tomato leaves turn yellow

Before taking measures to improve the health of the crop, find out the reason that provoked the yellowness on the tomato leaf blades. To do this, observe the bushes for several days, check the degree of soil moisture, change the temperature, and control the humidity level when maintaining greenhouse tomatoes or home seedlings. The choice of support measures may depend on associated symptoms. Other symptoms are noticed on the stems and the general condition of the bush is analyzed.

Leaves curl and turn yellow

The phenomenon is typical for crops planted in open ground. Some stages of changing the shade of leaf blades may be a variant of the norm.

tomato leaves curl and begin to turn yellow

Lower

A change in color of the lower part of the stem and curling of the very first leaf blades appears immediately after planting as a reaction to changing climatic conditions. This is accompanied by a general lethargy of the bush. The phenomenon gradually disappears in 3-5 days, provided that the appendage is properly cared for. Additional signs of nutritional deficiencies include:

• general lethargy of the bush over a long period of time;
• fruit shrinkage;
• curling the edges of leaf blades.

To compensate for the lack of nutrition, regular feeding is done. They are accompanied by mandatory loosening of the soil - this technique saturates the soil with additional oxygen and activates the development of the root system.

Information! The lower leaves may turn yellow if the tomato is at the stage of active fruit formation. If no additional symptoms are detected, then this option is normal.

Upper

Fresh young leaves appear on top, the change in color of which is a kind of signal for gardeners that the plant is experiencing difficulties. Yellowness with accompanying inward twisting indicates one of the following phenomena:

• lack of calcium;
• the appearance of aphids or whiteflies;
• infectious disease of the root system.

To fertilize bushes at the stage of fruit formation or flowering, root watering is carried out with special means or foliar treatments with solutions prepared according to folk recipes.

Information! Chemical treatments at the flowering or fruiting stage are carried out if absolutely necessary.

If insects appear on the bushes, then step-by-step treatment, which consists of sequential actions, helps to get rid of them:

• manual removal of pests from the bush;
• treatment by spraying with selected preparations;
• secondary treatment to destroy clutches of insect eggs.

Leaf edges

Tomato leaves have yellow edges

The edges of the plates determine the lack of nutrition. They change and dry out if the seedlings or planted tomato needs one of the elements.

Nitrogen. The tomato becomes lethargic, stretches out, but at the same time almost does not increase green mass. The edges become covered with a dry crust, then gradually die off. To correct the situation, nitrogen-containing treatments are used at the root.

Potassium. The lack of this element is indicated by the curling of young leaves and the yellowing of the edges of old, strong plates. Tomatoes are treated with potassium nitrate.

Phosphorus. The deficiency of this component is easily determined by the yellowing of the sharp tip and the darkening of the plate with a bluish tint to the rest. Fertilize with phosphates, watering at the root.

Copper. The plates curl, the edges turn yellow to a light yellow, almost white shade. Copper sulfate is used for healing. It is sprayed using a sprayer.

Veins and center

A noticeable change in shade and yellowness of the veins indicate an insufficient supply of one of the elements:

1. Molybdenum. This rare occurrence is a sign that cannot be confused with another. If yellowness of the central veins is detected, fertilizing with ammonium molybdate is carried out.
2. Magnesium. A change in the shade of the veins, the appearance of yellow spots between them and drying along the edges is evidence of insufficient magnesium content in the soil. To improve the appearance of plants, root fertilizing is done with a solution of magnesium nitrate.

Tomato diseases leading to yellowing of leaves

Fusarium (see description above)

can cause not only wilting, but also yellowing of the leaves. It occurs instantly and almost immediately leads to a change in the shade of tomato foliage. Dangerous for both seedlings and adult plants. After fighting fusarium, it is necessary to thoroughly treat the entire greenhouse, as its spores are very tenacious, including on greenhouse structures.

Late blight.

Occurs during the onset of cold weather, as well as at high temperatures and high humidity levels, and an unsuitable microclimate. The disease begins at the top of tomato plants when the tops turn brown and die after a while.

To help the vegetable grower, there is a wide variety of fungicides, as well as preventive measures related to the creation and maintenance of the proper microclimate in the greenhouse and proper care.

How to figure out why the leaves of tomato seedlings turn yellow

It is also not uncommon for you to plant beautiful, green tomato plants grown in boxes in the garden bed, and a few days later you see a terrible picture - yellow twisted leaves and yellowed stems of the plant.

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If the tomato seedlings were planted in soil similar to the one in which they grew before planting, then this is one reason - the composition of the soil is not to blame. But if your seedlings sprouted and grew in black soil, and you planted them in soil that has a completely different composition, then things are bad. It's all your blunder.

In what cases does seedlings planted in the ground turn yellow:

• Tomatoes do not like acidic soil. If before planting your seedlings grew in limestone soil, and you planted them in acidic soil, then the seedlings will begin to hurt.
• Perhaps your seedlings grew in a narrow pot or box and their root system was not sufficiently formed. In this case, the leaves of the plants will also begin to dry out and wither, because weak roots are not able to fully nourish the plant.
• To prevent the leaves from turning yellow, do not forget to feed the seedlings while they are still growing on the window.
• Sudden changes in temperature can also affect plant development. If you have not hardened the seedlings sufficiently, and after transplanting them into the ground there are sharp drops in temperature at night, the seedlings may turn yellow.
• The same picture can be observed if you planted seedlings in the shade;
• Water the plants generously for the first 2-3 days until the tomatoes take root. Once the seedlings have begun to take root, make sure the soil is not too wet. Tomatoes don't like this. In addition, harmful fungi and bacteria multiply much faster in a humid environment.

Also, the cause of yellowing of the leaves of tomato seedlings may be soil that is contaminated before planting. In this case, the soil must be treated with a disinfectant.

Damage to tomatoes by insect pests and yellowing of foliage

The yellowing of tomato leaves is caused by mole crickets and wireworms, which feed on the root part of tomatoes.

Photo of the mole cricket

The mole cricket loves soil that has been supplemented with organic fertilizers.

To find it, you need to dig up the ground a little, since it makes a nest at a depth of no more than 15 cm and feeds on roots from there.
This leads to yellowing of the leaves and eventual loss of yield. Insecticides are used to eliminate mole crickets.
The wireworm harms tomatoes by laying larvae near the plants, which, eating the tomatoes, gradually penetrate inside the stems. To eliminate the larvae, use a mixture of sawdust, sand and Bazudin.

Photo of wireworm

Tomato leaves can dry out or turn yellow for various reasons. When you notice the first signs of yellowing and wilting of tomato leaves, you should carefully examine the plants, diagnose the cause, and then take appropriate treatment measures. It is important to carry out timely prevention and systematically care for tomatoes so that the foliage is juicy and green, and the tomatoes themselves are healthy and tasty.

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Diseases and pests

Often the tender, juicy roots of tomatoes are attacked by harmful insects:

• the mole cricket, which prefers to feed on organic matter and build nests, causing yellowing of the leaves;
• The wireworm begins to lay larvae on the roots of the tomatoes or nearby, eat the succulent roots, making their way to the stems, as a result of which the leaves begin to lighten, and the bushes may eventually die completely.

Wireworm

In the fight against mole crickets, we use special preparations (Thunder, Medvedka), preparing a solution and pouring it directly into the holes made. Can be used:

• infusion of hot pepper (150 g per 10 liters of water);
• vinegar solution (2 cups of regular vinegar per 1 bucket of water);
• pink solution of potassium permanganate for soil disinfection.

In the fight against wireworms, a composition of sand, sawdust, and the purchased drug Bazudin will be used: mix the ingredients and sprinkle around the plantings.

If the beetle has already been noticed at your summer cottage before, then before planting tomatoes in the greenhouse, you should immediately treat the soil in advance. Why, 3-4 days before transplanting the seedlings, bury small pieces of vegetables strung on steel or sticks, up to 2-7 cm long. Dig into the ground so that the tips peek out. The beetles will begin to climb on them. After 2-3 days, it will be easy to collect the accumulations of insects with your hands and burn them.

A particular danger to the root system of tomatoes is a pathogenic fungus that causes late blight, fusarium and yellowing of leaves.

Important! Pathogenic fungi are contagious. If it lives in the soil, it can easily get into tomato seeds from contaminated soil or from gardening tools, causing the leaves to turn yellow in the future.

Medvedka

Methods for controlling fungal diseases in tomatoes:

• Mole cricket and wireworm feeding on the root system. The following drugs will help eliminate it: Bazudin, Medvetox. If nematodes appear in the greenhouse, it is recommended to replace all the soil completely.
• Brown spots on leaves and fruits are the result of frequent watering. To correct the situation, you need to start watering the tomatoes moderately and at the root so that droplets of water do not fall on the leaves.
• Yellowing of bushes and leaves from late blight is treated with Bordeaux mixture. To prepare the solution: vitriol (100 g), slaked lime (150 g) and pour water (10 l). Spray, pouring 2 liters. solution per 1m2 plot.
• For fusarium, which affects seedlings and adult plants, it is necessary to spray with the following preparations: Trichodermin, Previkur, Energy.

Note! If no pests are observed in the greenhouse, the root system is intact, but the leaves still turn yellow, then it is likely that infection with fusarium or late blight has occurred. To prevent late blight, you can water each bush with a solution of potassium permanganate (pink), Bordeaux mixture, or special preparations (Hom, Fitosporin).

The reasons are different if the leaves of tomato seedlings turn yellow, but what to do in the greenhouse? It often happens that it is enough to take a closer look, find out the problem quickly and take corrective measures. The main thing is not to leave yellowness and wilting unattended. Otherwise, you may not receive enough harvest or plants due to soil contamination; failure to comply with agrotechnical requirements may soon wither and die completely.

When caring for seedlings, it is important to ensure regular watering and loosening of the soil. Tomatoes are a capricious crop, but if you create normal greenhouse conditions for growth and vegetation and then in open ground, then after establishment they will begin to grow stocky and strong, will not stretch out much, and will be able to fight insect pests and fungal diseases on their own.

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Methods to combat yellowing of leaves

What to do if the top leaves of a tomato turn yellow

As already mentioned, if the tomato bushes begin to turn yellow in the top part, while the lower part remains lush green, most likely the plants lack nutrients.

• if there is a lack of calcium, it is necessary to spray the bushes with calcium nitrate;
• in case of sulfur starvation, treat tomatoes with magnesium sulfate;
• in case of iron deficiency, it is enough to irrigate the plantings once with a 1% solution of iron sulfate or iron chelate;
• a deficiency of manganese can be eradicated by spraying with a 1% solution of potassium permanganate;
• boric acid solution will relieve boron starvation.

What to do if the lower leaves of a tomato turn yellow

Yellowness on the lower leaves most often indicates improper care or natural processes occurring in the plant’s body.

• water on time;
• control the level of humidity and temperature in the greenhouse;
• fertilize regularly;
• spray the bushes with drugs against diseases and pests;
• treat the soil from weeds.

Yellowing of the lower leaves is less dangerous than yellowing of the upper ones, since when errors in care are corrected, the seedlings return to their healthy appearance and continue to develop further. However, if measures are not taken in time, then even such a trifle as skipping watering can lead to crop failure.

What to do if the edges of tomato leaves turn yellow

If the edges of the leaves become lighter than the center and begin to curl slightly, this indicates a lack of nitrogen or potassium. Over time, the weakened foliage dies, and the plants become stunted, the stems thin and brittle. If there is a lack of nitrogen, then it is necessary to add a suitable preparation, for example, urea, to the soil as soon as possible. And potassium nitrate will help compensate for the lack of potassium.

What to do if the leaves of tomatoes wither and turn yellow

If you are confident in the quality of the soil, and there are no signs of disease on the foliage except for its yellowness, then most likely the tomatoes have become too cold or have dried out without sufficient watering.

• provide warmth to the tomatoes. To do this, install a radiator in the greenhouse, cover the bed with some material or mulch;
• if the weather outside is clear and very hot, then in order not to cause burns on the foliage, you need to shade the bed with an awning;
• resume regular watering. With prolonged drought, the foliage turns yellow. Systematic watering will solve the problem.

What to do if the leaves of a tomato turn yellow and curl

If the leaves just change color, then that's not so bad. But when they also begin to curl, this indicates more serious problems with the seedlings.

• lack of microelements;
• uneven development of the bush;
• exposure to pests.

To help cope with tomato disease:

use of complex fertilizers;

maintaining tomato beds in a well-lit place;

treating bushes with insecticides.

As you can see, until you get a good and tasty tomato harvest, you need to go through a number of obstacles in the form of various misfortunes to which this crop is susceptible. Not every vegetable grower can cope with them and emerge victorious. When growing tomatoes, you need not only to love this vegetable, but also to know all its weaknesses. Only those who are armed with knowledge about possible diseases of tomatoes will be protected from the risk of their occurrence.

Physiological reasons for oppression of seedlings

Strong plants come from good seedlings

Therefore, you need to care for indoor seedlings with attention and care. Pick up when a true leaf appears, not a cotyledon, and transplant into the greenhouse at the right time

Why do the leaves of young or adult tomato plants turn yellow? There are several reasons for this condition:

• lack of land, watering, nutrition, lighting and heat;
• transplant stress;
• root damage;
• high humidity in closed ground;
• thickening;
• sunburn.

Insufficient soil volume

Sometimes seedlings growing in small cups on a windowsill in a house do not have enough land to develop. An overgrown plant fills the soil completely with its roots and begins to wither from lack of nutrition.

Overgrown plants with wilted or yellow foliage do not take root well in a new location and are delayed in development. When watering, root stimulants and foliar fertilizer are added to the water.

Stress

When transplanting seedlings into open ground, sometimes the lower cotyledon leaves turn yellow. This occurs due to unfavorable conditions: insufficient watering or lighting, strong sun, low temperature. Changing location for a plant with an open root system is always stressful. These same factors are the reason why the leaves of seedlings in a greenhouse turn yellow.

To prevent the leaves from falling on the plant, you need to water it well with the addition of rooting agents and shade it in the first days of growth.

Injury to the root system

Damage to the roots of seedlings during planting or transplanting, if they are not growing in individual cups, is a common occurrence. Trimming the root tip of a tomato when planting in the ground is even recommended to increase the bushiness of the fibrous part of the root system.

However, after such a procedure, the seedling suffers. Therefore, when picking or planting, it is worth feeding young plants and treating them with anti-stress drugs Tomaton, NV-101 or Kornevin.

Improper irrigation

If the lower leaves of tomato seedlings turn yellow due to lack of water, then the gardener just needs to water the plantings and carefully monitor the plants. Tomato wilting due to lack of moisture is difficult to confuse with something else. At the same time, the leaves and stems not only turn yellow, but also wither. They recover quickly after the necessary procedure.

It is more difficult to restore a tomato when the soil is very waterlogged, as rot of the leaves and stems often begins. The seedlings die due to an infection called “blackleg”. Watering is stopped until the soil dries, and the plantings are treated with a fungicide against infections.

Excess humidity

Damage to tomatoes is caused by high humidity in a greenhouse structure. Values ​​above 60-70% lead to yellowing and rotting, especially at low temperatures. Poor ventilation not only depresses plants, it helps the development of many fungal infections. Therefore, it is necessary to ventilate greenhouses and greenhouses regularly after watering.

Lighting and heating

When growing indoor seedlings, fertilizers are applied to the soil before planting. Then the plants are fed twice before planting in the beds.

Seedlings growing indoors are protected from the cold. In spring there are frequent frosts with a sharp decrease in temperature, especially at night. Due to cold weather, the seedlings' metabolism becomes difficult, development is inhibited, the leaves curl, and then turn yellow and fall off.

It is impossible to save frozen seedlings. Therefore, you need to monitor the weather forecast and bring boxes of seedlings into the house if there is a threat of night frost.

Thickness

Seeds planted in one box and growing without picking often grow weak and thin, lacking sunlight. The situation cannot be corrected by fertilizing or watering. It is worth planting fewer plants in individual cups, then the created conditions will contribute to better development of tomatoes.

If tomatoes in a greenhouse turn yellow: what to do

Before using this or that remedy, it is necessary to understand the reasons for what happened. Quite often, big problems are caused not so much by the cause of the disease, but by its incorrect solution.

At the first stage, it is necessary to eliminate the lack of moisture and nutrients. This will be signaled by yellow and slightly curled tips of the leaves.

If this item is excluded, then you must use one of the recommendations below:

Spray no more than once every 3 days. The solution is made using a combination of water and a 1% solution of mineral fertilizers. A similar procedure is advisable when it comes to the adaptation period after transplanting into open ground. Use of root development stimulants

This must be done with great care. The required quantity is calculated based on an analysis of the planting area and the degree of damage to the leaves. If yellow leaves appear as a result of insect activity, then you cannot do without chemical agents.

We are talking about Medvetox or Thunder sprays. Before use, you must carefully read the instructions located on the packaging. For those who do not want to use chemicals, we can recommend natural remedies. we are talking about a mixture of 10 liters of water and 150 g of hot pepper. The resulting liquid is poured in small streams into the found insect holes. As another effective mixture, you can use a combination of 10 liters of water and 3 glasses of table vinegar. As in the previous case, the solution is poured into the detected pest holes. Excessive or insufficient air humidity is the most difficult problem to solve. The gardener needs to ventilate the greenhouse himself or install an automatic system. It is expensive, but at the same time it allows you to monitor the seedlings to a lesser extent.

Prevention measures

The best prevention of yellow tomato leaves is compliance with agricultural practices. If plants are provided with the necessary microclimate, then they develop normally. Leaf wilting occurs naturally.

Prevention of yellowing of tomato leaves in open ground:

• selection of varieties resistant to changes in temperature conditions and diseases;
• compliance with the planting scheme;
• choosing a suitable place for culture;
• watering rationing;
• loosening and mulching the soil;
• weeding;
• regular feeding;
• bush formation.

Particular attention is paid to the prevention of diseases and pests. Spraying with fungicides Fitosporin, Ridomil, Fundazol helps prevent diseases. If there are less than 3 weeks left before the fruit ripens, then folk remedies are used. To protect against diseases, prepare an infusion of wood ash, which is sprayed on plants.

Treatments help control pests in open ground. Choose biological preparations that do not accumulate in leaves and fruits. For spraying tomatoes, choose Fitoverm or Agravertin.

In the fall, when preparing the beds, the soil is dug up. Then the pest larvae will end up on the surface and will not be able to survive the winter. Insects are repelled by natural remedies: tobacco dust, onion peels, calendula, marigolds. On their basis, infusions for spraying are prepared. For prevention, tomatoes are treated with tobacco dust or wood ash.

Ways to get rid of the problem

If the cause of blanching of tomato foliage is damage to the garden plant by pathogenic microflora, then it is necessary to immediately carry out therapeutic measures using the most effective drugs. The use of folk remedies in this case is inappropriate due to insufficient effectiveness and a high risk of losing a significant part of the harvest.

In order to improve the growth and development of tomato seedlings and to increase overall yield, it is recommended to use the drug “Agat-25K”, diluted at the rate of 140 mg per 3 liters of water. The first spraying of plants is carried out at the stage of the appearance of the third true leaf, and repeated treatment is necessary for tomatoes after about three weeks with a consumption of 0.3 liters for every 10 m2 of planting area.

Preventing yellowing of tomatoes

Yellowing of leaves can seriously weaken tomato seedlings and slow down development, which negatively affects yields at the end of the season.

Preventive measures to prevent yellowing of the foliage of young tomatoes include:

• compliance with the crop's growing requirements - ensure good lighting, optimal temperature, air humidity and regular but moderate watering;
• high-quality soil preparation before sowing and picking - adding loosening components, maintaining acidity close to neutral;
• timely balanced feeding of seedlings;
• dressing seeds and substrate before sowing and transplanting with fungicides, for example, Fundazol (1 g of the drug is diluted in 1 liter of water);
• preparing suitable sized planting containers with drainage holes;
• Watering tomatoes only with warm, settled water.

It is much easier to prevent the appearance of yellowness on tomato foliage than to later look for the cause of its occurrence and take measures to save the seedlings. Prevention in this case is very important.

What to do

Important! If tomato seedlings turn yellow, immediate measures must be taken to prevent the plants from dying.

If the substrate for seedlings was made incorrectly, the seedlings must be transplanted into new soil and separate containers. The following soil mixture is best suited for tomatoes:

• 0.5 parts wood ash;
• 1 part each of sand, peat, perlite and coconut substrate;
• 2 parts of turf land.

In case of waterlogging and cold conditions, it is necessary to loosen the top layer of soil, stop watering until the soil dries out and maintain the temperature of 16-18 degrees during the day and 10-15 degrees at night.

If there is a lack of light, seedlings are provided with additional lighting in the evening so that there is at least 10 hours of daylight.

If the air is dry, the seedlings should be protected from the battery with polystyrene foam, and watering should be increased as the top layer of soil dries.

To eliminate the lack of microelements in the soil, seedlings are fed with fertilizers depending on the missing component:

To compensate for the lack of potassium, add potassium sulfate (2 g per 10 liters of water) or potassium humate (50 ml per 10 liters of water).

To saturate with nitrogen, fertilize with urea (15-20 g per 10 l of water) or ammonium nitrate (20 g per 10 l of water). You can also add organic matter: rotted mullein (1:10) or chicken droppings (1:20).

In case of calcium deficiency, a solution of calcium nitrate (25 g per bucket of water) is added to the root.

If there is a lack of iron, iron chelate (5 g per 5 liters of water) is added to the soil when watering seedlings. You can also spray the foliage with iron sulfate (5 g per 10 liters of water).

Magnesium can be added to the soil by adding magnesium sulfate (20 g per 10 liters of water at a temperature of 20 degrees).

You can replenish the soil with phosphorus using superphosphate extract. To do this, dissolve 1 glass of the product in 1 liter of boiling water and leave for 12 hours. After this, add another 10 liters of water and water the seedlings.

To saturate the foliage with manganese, spray it with manganese sulfate (5 g per 10 liters of water).

Zinc deficiency is corrected by spraying the foliage with zinc sulfate (5 g per 10 liters of water).

If tomato leaves turn yellow due to poor substrate, it is worth fertilizing the plants with a complex of fertilizers, including adding the following per 10 liters of water:

• 5 g ammonium nitrate;
• 20 g double superphosphate;
• 12 g of potassium chloride.

Important! All root fertilizers are taken into moist soil after watering to avoid burns on the roots and improve the absorption of microelements. If fungal diseases appear due to which the leaves turn yellow, become deformed and fall off, the seedlings must be treated with drugs such as Previkur and Fitosporin, according to the instructions.

If you correctly identify the problem and establish the cause, you can choose the appropriate methods to solve the yellowing of seedlings.

What diseases and pests are common causes of yellowing?

It happens that it’s not all about improper care, but about diseases or pests.

First, let's talk about parasitic insects, due to whose vital activity the foliage changes its color.

The most common culprits are spider mites, whiteflies and aphids. You can recognize their influence by regularly conducting preventive inspections of your plantings.

Spider mites are the most difficult to spot, but their presence is indicated by spotty yellowing of the foliage.

Diseases of tomatoes with yellowing leaves

• Pathogenic fungi often attack tomatoes. The most common diseases are fusarium and late blight.
• Fusarium can be distinguished by dried out, yellowish and curled leaves. With late blight, the foliage becomes yellow-brown in color.
• If signs of pest or fungal infestation appear, treat diseased plants with insecticides or fungicides.
• At the same time, if the whole point is a fungal infection, then diseased plants must be destroyed in order to prevent the disease from spreading to other healthy bushes.