Growing eggplants is not an easy process. Plants are demanding and fragile, it is important to follow some rules. One of the fundamental things that you need to remember when planting seeds is the schedule of prosperous and unfavorable days in accordance with the Lunar calendar.
Taking into account its data, you can achieve good results and get strong, well-fruiting young animals. Be sure to also read about when and how to plant peppers and tomatoes.
In addition to the sowing date, proper care of seedlings is also important. They need certain conditions of detention, timely feeding and disease prevention.
In outskirts of Moscow
The heat-loving plant requires special temperature conditions. In the Moscow region the climate is not particularly favorable for this crop. Eggplants are grown by seedlings, ensuring timely planting at home, with the transfer of young shoots to the ground.
Seeds are planted in the ground in the second half of February and early March. Planting in unprotected soil occurs after the end of frost, not earlier than mid-May. For the climatic conditions of the Moscow region, unpretentious hybrid varieties are suitable: “Giselle”, “King of the North”, “King of the Market”.
In Siberia
Siberia has its own climatic characteristics and more severe temperature conditions. These factors must be taken into account when choosing the timing.
The choice of date depends on the general climatic characteristics of the region, but particular weather conditions also have a significant influence. Seedlings cannot be transferred to the ground until the soil warms up to 20 degrees.
Considering these features, it is better to plant seeds in the ground in the Siberian climate in the second half of February-early March.
To a large extent, the exact period is determined by the variety. In the climatic conditions of Siberia, “Purple Miracle”, “Nutcracker”, “Robin Hood” grow and bear fruit well.
Preparing seeds for sowing
How to plant eggplant seedlings, in what time frame and what kind of soil should it be? All this later. First, the seeds are prepared, checked for germination, mechanical damage, and calibrated.
Calibration
It is carried out by eye. This is the selection of the largest, densest and healthiest seeds for subsequent preparation for sowing. Small seeds are also selected, but sown separately from large ones. Dark, uneven, damaged specimens are thrown away.
Checking for occupancy
Seeds are checked for filling in order to reject empty samples. They do the check like this:
- dissolve 1 tbsp in 500 ml of water. l. salt;
- place the seeds in the container for 10 minutes;
- those that float are thrown away;
- those that have fallen to the bottom are prepared for sowing.
Seeds that have passed the test will sprout vigorously in 99% of cases.
Treatment with stimulating compounds
The procedure will require solutions of Zircon, Epin and other growth stimulants. They help the seeds wake up and germinate faster. The preparations are prepared according to the recommendations on the packaging, the seeds are also kept in them as indicated in the instructions.
Next, before sowing eggplants for seedlings, if desired, they are germinated. This is useful to do if each grain is planted in an individual container without subsequent transplantation. Sprout the seeds in saucers in damp gauze or cotton cloth for several days until the sprout hatches. Seeds that do not wake up are thrown away.
In the Urals
The Urals are distinguished by specific climatic conditions, which often complicate the cultivation of vegetables. The region has a fairly short summer, so unpretentious varieties that are resistant to temperature changes grow well there.
It is worth giving preference to early or hybrid species. The Ural climate is favorable for varieties: “Delicacy Gribovsky-752”, “Rotunda”, “Dnistrovets”.
These are early-ripening, mid-ripening varieties and varieties with a long growing season. They have time to ripen and produce good fruits during a short warm period in the region.
Given the possible risk of late frosts inherent in this region, plants should first be planted under film. A more reliable option is in a greenhouse.
If you plan to plant in the ground, you should strictly follow the recommendations regarding timing. Choose a time when there is guaranteed to be no frost. Therefore, seeds should be planted in the soil no earlier than the end of February - beginning of March.
This should not be done later if the selected variety has a long growing season. The plants will not have time to fully ripen before the first cold snap. They are moved to open ground closer to mid-June so that there is no longer the risk of night frosts.
In the Leningrad region
The Leningrad region has a humid climate with frequent temperature changes. The varieties “Severny”, “Medvezhonok”, and “Egorka” are most suitable for this area.
They have properties that are important for this area: they ripen quickly and are quite resistant to small temperature changes. It is also necessary to take into account the fact whether the young animals will be placed in a greenhouse or they plan to transfer them to open ground.
For seedlings, the seeds are placed in the ground starting from the beginning of February, if there are heated greenhouses. This period lasts until May. More precisely, the month can be determined taking into account the selected variety.
Due to the long growing season of the crop, the best period for sowing in the Leningrad region is considered to be from mid-February to early March. But depending on the variety or weather conditions, the deadline may shift slightly.
I recommend watching the video (be sure to watch it to the end), you will learn a lot of new things:
How to do it correctly (full instructions)
The culture is demanding on conditions and has a fragile structure. To get healthy, strong specimens, it is preferable to grow shoots at home.
The process includes certain preparation of seeds, sowing itself and further measures. Each stage of development is correlated with the climatic conditions of the region and the data of the Lunar calendar.
Without picking
When determining the optimal period, you need to take into account the long growing season. It is 100-150 days.
Grown plants should be placed in the garden bed from mid-June if the variety is early ripening, and in the second half of May if it is late ripening.
The seeds must be carefully selected, leaving only the strongest and most promising ones. Next, you need to prepare them in accordance with the instructions and select suitable containers. For the option without further picking, cups and cassettes are suitable.
The process involves the following steps:
- Prepare the containers by making a hole at the bottom for drainage;
- Fill a cup or cassette with earthen mixture, leaving a little space on top;
- Using a peg or the handle of a spoon, make a hole about 0.5 cm deep;
- Place a seed in the hole and lightly sprinkle with soil. There is no need to tamp;
- Place containers with seeds on a tray.
Next, you need to maintain suitable temperature conditions. After spraying from a spray bottle to slightly moisten the soil, cover the containers with film or glass. Place in a warm place.
Optimal temperature conditions at this stage are 25-28 degrees. It is more convenient to place them next to the battery. As soon as the first shoots appear (no earlier than 8 days), remove the film and place the containers in a bright place.
At this stage, the air temperature must be reduced. At night it is worth maintaining 14-16 degrees, during the day raising to 25. Temperature changes will help strengthen the sprouts and prevent strong stretching of young plants.
The method does not involve picking. This is explained by the peculiarity of the root system. It is quite weak and easily injured during such manipulations. To obtain strong seedlings and a good harvest, it is better to avoid microdamage to the root system.
Soil preparation
Young eggplant seedlings are sensitive to fungal and bacterial infections, so the soil is disinfected. It is produced by heating it in the oven, steaming it or pouring it with hot water. It is enough to keep the soil in a hot oven for 15-20 minutes. The soil can also be kept in the cold for 1-2 days.
The composition of the soil should include humus, sand and turf soil. It must be rich in organic matter for the active development of plants. If the soil is prepared independently, then long-acting complex fertilizers are added to it. The richer the soil in nutrients, the stronger the plants and the less often they need additional fertilizing.
Growing and care at home
Care does not differ significantly from other types of garden crops. True, the period will be longer. The growing period is from 60 to 75 days.
It is necessary to maintain the temperature regime, watering and fertilizing schedule. The sprouts are very vulnerable, so they need to be reliably protected from drafts. Over about 3 weeks, they are gradually accustomed to fresh air and natural sunlight.
On warm days, for a short time, take it out onto the balcony. You need to make sure that the plants do not get sunburned or exposed to a draft. If you plan to plant them in greenhouses, you do not need to harden them.
How to care
Lighting. Particular attention should be paid to creating constant and high-quality lighting. Seedlings need daily lighting for 10-12 hours. To provide them with such conditions, you can place containers with young plants on southern windows. Additional illumination is provided using LED phytolamps.
The temperature should be relatively constant, without sudden fluctuations. It should not fall below 13 degrees. During the day the optimal temperature is 22-25 degrees, at night – 17.
Watering. An optimal level of soil moisture is one of the most important conditions for healthy plant development. Both extremes are harmful to growth and future fruiting. You need to water a little 3 or 4 times a week. Moisture should not get on the stem and leaves. This may cause rot or mold to form. Water at the base of the stem.
Feeding . You can take your time with fertilizing if you fertilize the soil before planting the seeds. You can usually tell by the appearance of the sprouts whether they need additional fertilizer.
Start feeding with organic and complex fertilizers. They must be applied very carefully, pouring them in liquid form into the soil directly under the root. Avoid contact with leaves. Later you can switch to complex fertilizers in dry form. They are diluted in water in the indicated proportions, and also watered at the root.
As the plants grow, the composition of the fertilizer can be changed. Include fertilizers with a large amount of phosphorus and potassium later, as the sprouts get stronger. It is important to follow the recommended dosage.
Disease Prevention
Sensitive, delicate plants are susceptible to many diseases. To protect them, it is necessary to carry out prevention at the seedling stage.
The most common disease is blackleg. To prevent fungal infection, you need to get rid of waterlogging and acidification of the soil, provide good lighting, and eliminate temperature changes.
Wilting is another serious problem. This is not an independent disease. Sometimes it manifests itself as a result of the activity of microorganisms. But more often it is caused by a lack of minerals, including nitrogen, and moisture in the soil.
If wilting is accompanied by yellowing of the leaves, we can conclude that there is a lack of potassium. To eliminate the problem, you need to apply appropriate fertilizing. Often wilting becomes an important symptom of a serious fusarium disease.
The disease is quite dangerous. If left untreated, the plant may gradually die. The causative agent of fusarium initially affects only the vessels of the leaves. If action is not taken, it will spread further.
Preventive measures are important. The main thing is pre-treatment of seeds and soil. The first ones are pre-treated; special substances must be added to the soil. It is recommended to freeze or pickle the soil mixture beforehand.
They can also wither if there is a lack of fresh air or if the room is too dry. A similar effect can be caused by too low an air temperature or excessive watering. Since there can be many reasons, the specifics of care should be analyzed.
Caring for eggplant seedlings after germination
After the seeds germinate, they need to be properly cared for.
- Eggplants need light. At least 12 hours. When growing seedlings in the northern regions, they need to be illuminated with special lamps. If there is not enough light, the eggplants will stretch out, become weak and painful.
- The soil should be moist, but water stagnation and excess should not be allowed. Otherwise, the process of rotting may begin.
- Fertilizing is carried out with complex mineral fertilizers (Agricola, Humate, Energen). Experienced gardeners advise reducing the concentration of the active substance by 2-3 times so as not to harm young plants.
ON A NOTE. In order for the seedlings to develop evenly, they must be periodically turned to the sun with the other side.
Approximately 15 - 20 days before the intended transplant to a permanent place, eggplant seedlings are hardened.
What to do if the leaves turn yellow
Yellowing is a symptom that signals various problems. One of the most common is getting used to a new place. If this is the only reason, the color of the leaves is quickly restored.
A more serious reason lies in the presence of a disease called leaf mosaic.
It is indicated by characteristic yellow spots on the leaves. The causes of the disease are varied: excessive or insufficient lighting, a sharp drop in temperature or draft. Unsuitable soil, for example with too much peat in the soil, can also lead to yellowing.
Good harvests to you, dear readers!
Disease and pest control
Eggplants most often suffer from fungal diseases, and their main pest is the Colorado potato beetle. The most effective methods of controlling diseases and pests are preventative.
The most common diseases and pests of eggplants:
| Diseases/pests | Symptoms/pattern of lesion | How to fight? |
| Blackleg | A fungal disease in which the root collar darkens and becomes overtightened. The plant withers and dies. | There is no treatment. Prevention consists of disinfecting the soil with bleach - 200 g are diluted in 10 liters of water. Sick plants are pulled out and burned. |
| Late blight | The fungus affects leaves, stems, and fruits - rusty spots with a green border appear on them. | Spraying with a solution of 0.2% copper sulfate or other copper-containing preparation. |
| Black bacterial spot | Bacteria attack all parts of the plant. Small black spots appear on them. | They observe crop rotation, destroy plant residues after harvesting, and disinfect the soil. |
| Mosaic | The virus causes mosaic coloration on the leaves. The fruits have yellow spots. | The seeds are disinfected by immersing them in 20% hydrochloric acid for 30 minutes. All equipment is also disinfected. |
| Spider mite | Sucks juices from the plant. The leaves become stained and then dry out. Productivity is falling. | Spray with onion or garlic solution, adding a spoon of liquid soap. |
| Aphid | It feeds on plant juices and is located on leaves, stems, and flowers. | Spraying with karbofos or keltan. |
| Colorado beetle | The larvae eat all parts of the plant. | Plants that repel beetles, such as marigolds, are planted along the beds. Sprayed with insecticides. |
| Slugs | They eat leaves, eat stems and even fruits. | Sprinkle the row spacing with fluff lime, tobacco dust or wood ash. |
Spraying with insecticides and fungicides is carried out before flowering and after flowering. During flowering and fruiting, processing is prohibited.
