This article will be useful to gardeners, since strawberries grow in almost all areas. Methods for saving strawberries from wilting are discussed here.
Strawberries and strawberries belong to the same species - green strawberries. These are very tasty, juicy and aromatic berries that have a positive effect on the digestive system and heart function. It should also be noted that strawberries have a rejuvenating effect and act as an aphrodisiac, and also fight viral and various bactericidal infections. But such a plant is very capricious, so gardeners often encounter problems, for example, drying of the leaves and the seedling itself. It is this task that will be considered in this material.
Why strawberries, strawberries and berries dry out and die during the fruiting period: reasons
Strawberries are not only healthy, but also delicious. That’s why the children look forward to her harvest with such impatience. This is a heat-loving plant, but it is also grown in the northern regions. Fruit ripening occurs at the end of May - beginning of June. Much depends on the species, climatic conditions and care. Yes, it cannot be said that strawberries are so picky, but they love care and attention.
Interesting Facts! The name “strawberry” has Russian and Old Slavonic roots. The berry was originally called “green strawberry” (that is, from the Latin “fragrant”). And only in the 18th century a new name was established. By the way, it comes from the word “club”, that is, “having a spherical shape” or “winding threads”. But that's not all. In those days, nutmeg strawberries were popular in European countries, the name of which was changed.
- Strawberries love water. Therefore, a common reason for the bush to dry out during the fruiting period is lack of moisture . Especially if the summer was hot and rainless. During fruit set, watering should be increased as much as possible. But even after the first strawberries appear, do not forget about regular watering. A distinctive feature of this problem is dry and cracked soil under the bushes, the leaves dry out, and the fruits themselves decrease in size and also dry out.
Strawberries are drying
- Also, the cause may be hidden in a thermal burn . You need to water strawberries early in the morning, when the dew has subsided, or late in the evening. Otherwise, the hot sun may cause a burn. Remember - the moisture must have time to be absorbed before the scorching rays appear.
IMPORTANT: You cannot pour water on the leaves or fruits; the water must flow strictly under the bush. Again, this can lead to burns or the bush will begin to rot.
- If everything is in order with watering, the planting site is chosen correctly and you replant it periodically, then the reason for the drying out of the ground part lies either in pests or fungal diseases. These two reasons require special attention, so we will consider them in detail a little later.
- Also, one of the reasons may be vitamin starvation . Do not forget that plants need a lot (but in moderation) of phosphorus and potassium. Therefore, if no one is harming your bushes and they are getting enough light and moisture, then it’s time to fertilize. The most famous and safe potassium fertilizer is considered to be ash, and in case of phosphorus deficiency, the most indicative is superphosphate and phosphate flour.
Causes of foliage drying out
The sources of the problem can be different. This includes insufficient care, the activity of pests and fungal infections, or maybe it’s just time for some leaves to dry out and be replaced by fresh green foliage.
Natural drying of old foliage
The lifespan of one strawberry leaf is approximately 3 months. After harvesting, the current year's strawberry leaves gradually wither and then dry up. In the second half of August or early September, it is even recommended to remove all drying leaves, leaving only young ones, making sure to preserve the growth point. It is advisable to burn the cuttings so as not to transfer possible diseases to the compost. Before a stable snow cover falls, the strawberries will have time to restore green mass sufficient for a comfortable winter.
Lack of watering
During the spring chores of planting other garden crops, watering of perennials, including strawberries, is sometimes forgotten. At the same time, the May drought threatens to deprive the gardener of a significant part of the future harvest. The causes of foliage drying can be determined by lack of moisture based on several signs:
- the lower leaves begin to curl, especially in early varieties;
- the ground is covered with cracks.
When watering, follow a number of rules:
- The ideal time is before sunrise and after sunset or in cloudy weather. If this is not possible, water strictly at the root, trying not to get on the foliage and flowers.
- At the beginning of spring and during flowering, water the strawberries 1-2 times a week, abundantly, so that the water penetrates to a depth of 20-25 cm
- During fruiting, the soil is moistened a little less frequently (once every 7-10 days), but abundantly: at the rate of 25 liters per 1 m2. Water can be supplied into furrows dug at a distance of 25-30 cm from the row with bushes, so as not to touch the ripening berries.
- After harvesting, water is also necessary, the frequency depends on weather conditions.
- In October, before the ground freezes, do one, the most abundant moisture-recharging watering, so that the plant overwinters better.
- In the warm season, water is used that is settled and heated in the sun.
- Watering is completed by loosening the soil or slightly updating the mulch so that a crust does not form on the surface.
Organization of drip irrigation will allow irrigation to be carried out in a timely manner and save the gardener’s labor
Late blight
Late blight (fungal disease) affects not only plants of the nightshade family, but also strawberries. One of the signs of the disease is yellowing and drying of the lower row of leaves. Where does this misfortune come from?
- use of beds of potatoes, tomatoes, peppers, eggplants for strawberry plantation, as well as proximity to them;
- planting in lowlands where moisture stagnates for a long time;
- purchasing seedlings from unverified sellers;
- cold damp summer;
- excess nitrogen in fertilizing;
- lack of microelements;
- irrigation by sprinkling method.
First of all, the fungus penetrates the roots, and becomes noticeable on the leaves and berries:
- the affected bushes lag behind in growth and the formation of new greenery;
- the lower row of mature foliage turns yellow, gradually withers and dries out;
- if you pull such a plant by the leaf petioles and peduncles, it easily breaks off, leaving part of the main stem and roots in the soil;
- Unripe berries show brown spots, ripe ones show pale areas and a bitter taste.
Fusarium wilt
Fusarium is a fungus that is even more aggressive and fast-acting than late blight. The reasons for its manifestation, as well as the external sign regarding the drying of foliage, are partly similar:
- excess water on ridges in conditions of floods, cold summer rains, excessive irrigation at low air temperatures;
- new seedlings from random sources;
- high plant density;
- planting a plantation after pumpkins (cucumbers, eggplants, squash, pumpkins, watermelons) or next to them;
- excessive soil acidity;
- fertilizing plantings with preparations containing chlorine;
The disease also begins from the roots, and can be identified by the leaves:
- First, individual areas of the leaves dry out with spots of brown (brown) color;
- then all the affected leaves die, healthy ones droop due to damage to the petioles;
- peduncles and ovaries are not formed;
- in 1.5 months the plant dies completely.
Methods for combating Fusarium wilt are presented in a separate article: “Fusarium wilt of strawberries: prevention and treatment”
Verticillium wilt
Another type of fungus that affects strawberries is verticillium (wilt). The reasons for the manifestation are partially different from the previous ones:
- hot and dry weather (+22+30), alternating with cooler rainy days;
- careless actions of the owner in weeding and cultivation with damage to strawberry bushes;
- freezing of the outlet during winters with little snow;
- poor weeding (overgrown with weeds, often quinoa);
- planting strawberries after nightshades.
Signs of the disease sometimes may not appear immediately and even 2 years after infection of the area:
- drying of the lower leaves with the relative well-being of the upper ones;
- dark color of petioles and peduncles (vessels are affected, then ammonia compounds accumulate);
- uneven death of the mustache;
- drying of berries on the peduncle.
Pests
Strawberry leaves also dry out as a result of the “work” of insects.
- Spider mite. The pest sucks out the sap of plants, entangling them in a web. The “attack” begins with the lower leaves, which turn yellow and die first. If the reason is mites, then answer the question “Why do the leaves dry out?” It will be very simple, you just have to study the sheet under a magnifying glass. Small mites will be visible on the underside of the leaf.
- Strawberry mite. A microscopic insect (size about 0.2 mm) attacks plantings in the 2nd half of summer. The lower row of leaves curls, turns yellow and dies. If you miss the moment, the entire bush will gradually suffer.
Methods for controlling mites are presented in a separate article: “Fighting mites or why strawberry leaves curl” - Strawberry leaf beetle. A dark yellow beetle (3 mm in length) settles inside a leaf, gnawing it from the inside and laying larvae. They, in turn, also feed on greens. The foliage turns into a net and gradually dies.
- Strawberry nematode. The smallest roundworms (up to 1 mm long) are impossible to notice in the soil and on plants. They feed on roots, and as a result, entire bushes begin to wither. The only solution for nematodes is to uproot the bushes and plant a bed of strawberries in a new place, without using seedlings from the diseased bed.
Methods of fighting nematodes are presented in a separate article: “How to fight nematodes on strawberries” - Chafer. A large insect (up to 2 cm) lays giant larvae (up to 5 cm), which damage the strawberry roots in the soil, causing the entire plant to dry out. Adult beetles feed on both leaves and berries. Methods for combating chafer larvae are presented in a separate article: “How to deal with chafer larvae on strawberries”
Spots on strawberries
All “spotting” is also of fungal origin and can cause drying of the foliage. Reasons for appearance:
- transfer of spores by insects;
- wet growing conditions;
- thickened plantings;
- untimely removal of weeds;
- the use of planting material that is not treated from bacteria and fungi before planting.
- growing season longer than 3-4 years in 1st place.
Brown spot
It appears as red-brown spots of indeterminate shape on the upper side of the leaf and dark brown “pads” with spores on the back. The spores gradually spread to the peduncles and berries. The plant is able to partially cope with the disease: instead of the dried ones, young greenery appears, although noticeably smaller in size. The trouble is that the fungus has a dormant stage and can become active several times a season.
Methods for combating brown spot are presented in a separate article: “How to treat brown spot on strawberries”
White spot
It first appears as dark red round or oval spots on the surface of the leaf. As they grow, a white “eye” forms in the middle. Further damage leads to the merging of the spots, and instead of white dots, holes are formed.
Methods for combating white spotting are presented in a separate article: “How to treat strawberries for white spotting”
rust spot
Small yellow spots on the bushes quickly darken and become red-orange. On the reverse side in the same places there are orange spore pads. This “rust” quickly spreads throughout the plantation.
Methods to combat rust are presented in a separate article: “Prevention and protection of leaf rust on strawberries”
Brown spot
Round red-brown spots with a darker center stretch out into a triangle as the season progresses. Their main location is at the main vein of the leaf. Affected greenery quickly ages and dies. The next year's harvest suffers from this: the plant is not able to accumulate the necessary strength.
Black spot (anthracnose)
The lesion begins with the petioles in the form of dark sores. Then elongated brown spots about 2 mm appear on the leaves. As they grow, they turn black. The disease spreads to flowers and berries that dry out. Then the plant dies.
Methods for combating black spot are presented in a separate article: “Proven methods for combating anthracnose on strawberries”
Drying berries can be caused by diseases
Strawberry fruits also dry out due to a wide variety of diseases. The most common is verticillium wilt. This is a dangerous fungal disease that is caused by a number of reasons. As a rule, it is indicated not only by dried strawberries, but also by other signs. So, this is indicated by a stop in growth and death of the root system. To combat the disease, you can use phytosporin or Bordeaux mixture.
Root rot can also lead to drying out of berries. If it occurs, you should dig up all the affected bushes, treat the soil with phytosporin, hoping that the remaining plants are not infected.
The leaves are turning yellow
Why do strawberry leaves turn yellow, what should I do? At times, yellowing of the foliage causes a deficiency of magnesium and nitrogen in the soil. If there is a lack of magnesium, dolomite flour is added. Nitrogen starvation is combated by adding mineral fertilizers and organic matter to the soil. Strawberries are fed with nitrogen every year with the arrival of spring.
If strawberries have yellowed foliage with a lemon tint, the plants are suffering from non-infectious chlorosis. The disease develops in conditions where the root system lacks warmth and is unable to provide the leaves with nutrients. The leaves of the strawberries have turned yellow - it’s time to apply foliar fertilization with a composition containing iron and water the beds with warm liquid.
The leaves are turning yellow
The viral disease xanthosis is also responsible for yellowed strawberry leaves. Spreads through infected seedlings and aphids. The disease cannot be cured. Preventive measures play an important role: treating the beds in spring and autumn with Bordeaux mixture (2-3%) or nitrafen solution (1.5%).
Methods to combat the problem
To eliminate the problem of drying strawberries use:
- mulch;
- proper watering;
- correct landing.
Mulching with straw or humus
You can regulate soil moisture using mulch, which can be dry (using straw or peat) and wet (using humus). This layer will absorb excess moisture, protect the soil from moisture evaporation, prevent fungi and slugs from multiplying, and protect the berries from contact with the soil. After the snow melts, it is necessary to lay a fresh layer of mulch to remove possibly overwintered larvae or fungal spores.
Read more about the methods and features of mulching strawberries.
Watering when there is no scorching sun
Water the plants only at the roots so that moisture does not linger on the leaves, heat up under the sun's rays and burn them. It is recommended for watering in the morning or evening, which will also avoid burns.
Chess arrangement of bushes
In order for each plant to receive a sufficient amount of fresh air, there should be at least 25 cm between them, and 30 cm between rows. Planting in a checkerboard pattern will save space. Dense plantings must be thinned out.
Pests
Plants wither because they are colonized by sucking harmful insects that feed on the sap. They suck the liquid out of the tissues, after which the strawberries simply disappear. There are also leaf-eating pests. But their feeding also causes the shoots to dry out.
Strawberry mite
The main danger is that the insect is difficult to identify. Its body is microscopic - 0.2 mm. You will need a magnifying glass to see it. This is a sucking harmful insect. With its nutrition, it weakens the plant, which slows down the development of strawberries.
You can suspect the appearance of mites by an oily coating and wrinkled, curled leaf blades that take on a waxy color. “Karbofos” or “Keltan” are suitable for protection. Insecticides can only be applied before the flowers appear.
The leaves are curling
Common reasons why strawberry leaves curl include:
- non-compliance with crop rotation;
- dry land;
- poor nutrition;
- transparent tick;
- very old site;
- powdery mildew;
- viral diseases.
Compliance with agrotechnical rules prevents curling of strawberry foliage:
- Acidified soil (acid level pH 5 and below) is deoxidized a year before planting strawberries. In acidic soil, crops do not absorb the required components well.
- Before planting, strawberries are applied to the ground with the entire complex of fertilizing: organic fertilizers, mineral micro- and macroelements.
- They prevent the plantings from becoming dense and the area from becoming overgrown with weeds and mustaches.
- The leaf will not curl if the soil is moderately moistened in the root zone up to 25 cm. In the phases of budding, flowering and fruiting, water by flood or through a drip system: rot is caused by sprinkling.
- Mulch helps retain moisture in the soil.
- The use of Zircon, an immunity stimulant, increases the drought resistance of strawberries and resistance to other harmful effects.
How to treat strawberries - prevention
Spring treatment
If in the spring you find that you have a lot of dry bushes in your area with strawberries, this is your signal to change the area, because it is undesirable to grow strawberries in one place for more than four years. What actions does it take to care for strawberries in spring? Remove the top layer of soil between the bushes, in which pest larvae and pathogens overwintered, and replace it with fresh soil. But if you cannot do this, then remove last year’s rotted mulch from the area and at least loosen the soil in the area to a depth of 6-8 cm, while removing weeds. Cut off all old leaves, tendrils and peduncles, plant young rosettes in place of dead bushes and add fertilizer to the soil, and also treat the area against pests and diseases - there should be at least three such treatments in the spring.
Treatment during flowering
As soon as the strawberries begin to grow, mulch the area with organic matter or special film. Just before flowering, carry out another treatment of strawberries against fungal diseases and pests. When buds begin to appear, add phosphorus fertilizers to the soil, and after flowering - complex mineral fertilizer.
Treatment for diseases
The older the area, the higher its infectious background, so it is impossible to avoid diseases without chemical treatment of the area. On average, strawberries are sprayed three to four times per season: the first - in early spring after harvesting the area with a two to three percent Bordeaux mixture or other copper-containing preparations, then in early April, before flowering, when the leaves begin to grow en masse, the strawberries are sprayed with Topsin-M, Quadris or other fungicide. The third and fourth treatments with fungicides are carried out after flowering at an interval of two weeks.
Strawberry pest control
We told you how to deal with various insects that damage strawberry bushes. Preventive treatments are carried out in the spring, after you have replaced the top layer of soil on the site. The best drugs to use are actellik, karbofos, metafos and other drugs of similar action. The new drug Tiovit-Jet has proven itself to be excellent - an acarofungicide that copes with both pests and fungi.
