Attica is a dark-colored seedless grape variety native to Greece. It was obtained as a result of hybridization carried out in 1979 by V. Michos at the Athens Institute of Viticulture. For crossing, the old and very famous varieties Alphonse Lavallee and Black Kishmish were used. Over the years since his appearance, our hero has become very popular both in his homeland and in many other European countries. In a number of them it was even officially included in the catalogs of varieties approved for industrial cultivation.
The variety belongs to the purebred representatives of the noble European-Asian species Vitis vinifera. This largely determines its advantages and disadvantages. The first can definitely include excellent indicators of large fruit, productivity, attractive appearance of the bunches, as well as the refinement of the taste of the berries. The negative features of the grapes are low frost resistance and resistance to fungal diseases, which generally determine a certain delicacy of Attica and the need for careful care for it.
The variety is not very common among domestic winegrowers, but those lovers who cultivate it share only positive emotions about the aesthetic and gastronomic qualities of the Greek guest.
What type does it belong to?
Grapes "Attica" (Attika, Attika seedless) is a seedless table variety. Early ripening - the production period is 110-120 days from bud break. The harvest in the middle zone is harvested in July and the second ten days of August.
Seedless varieties also include Super Early Seedless, Witch's Fingers and Korinka Russian.
Landing technology
How to plant Attica grapes correctly
In order for the harvest to be good, you must adhere to the following recommendations when planting:
- Dig a hole to a depth of 50 cm across the width of the root system.
- Make distances between rows of 1.5-2 m.
- The soil is mixed with a small amount of fertilizer (organic minerals and complex).
- Immerse the rhizome of the bush in a mixture of clay and mullein (2:1).
- Place the bush prepared for planting in the hole, spreading the roots over the surface of the mound of soil.
In order to provide additional humidity, it is necessary to install a pipe through which the liquid will be supplied.
For successful cultivation, you need to install vertical supports or arbors near each bush.
Grapes "Attica": description of the variety
bushes are medium-strong or strong, the leaves are slightly dissected, three- or five-lobed, with bristly pubescence on their lower part.
The flowers on the vine are bisexual. Shoot ripening and yield are high .
The number of clusters on the vine at the first fruiting is on average 8 , weighing up to a kilogram each.
The clusters are cylindrical, very large, dense or medium-dense, can reach 30 cm in length and, with good care, 2 kg in weight .
On average, the weight of one bunch is 700 grams . Rumba, Zarevo and Pervozvanny are in the same weight category.
The berries are oblong or round in shape, with a characteristic dimple, purple-blue or deep purple. The weight of one berry is 4-6 g .
The skin of the berries is dense, non-astringent, with a waxy coating.
The pulp is dense and crispy, sweet, with a harmonious taste. Like Ruta, the berries have a flavor reminiscent of cherries or chokeberries. There are no seeds, sometimes their rudiments are found.
The berries acquire a mature appearance until they are fully ripe, their flesh remains slimy and tasteless.
The pulp ripens after a few days, gaining juice and sugar content, making the berries larger.
“Attica” is prone to overloading the bushes with crops; the bushes are rationed, leaving a maximum of 30 buds .
Care
Throughout the season, it is worth carefully monitoring the state of growth and development of the bushes, making timely formation of the vine, removing excess leaves, pinching and pruning. Otherwise, the risk of crushing the berries and reducing yields increases.
Unformed bushes are guaranteed to lead to irrigation and reduced juiciness in the berries. Over time, unkempt bushes become weaker and less viable, which leads to their complete death.
Important!
The undoubted advantage of the variety is its ability to pollinate and high rates of fruiting, regardless of weather conditions throughout the entire growing season.
After being picked from the bush, the berries retain their quality indicators for two weeks, which makes it an ideal option for long-term transportation. After this time, putrefactive spots may appear and weight loss due to loss of moisture may occur. This affects not only the appearance of Attica, but also worsens its taste. The abundance of moisture in the berries as they enter ripeness adds a risk of cracking even after being picked from the bush.
To graft grapes, you should give preference to vigorous rootstocks located in well-lit areas. It does not need frequent watering, as it can cause rotting of the root system, although it is famous for its durability and strength.
Characteristics
The Attica variety is resistant to frost down to -21°C.
If more severe frosts are expected, after pruning the vine should be treated with a five percent solution of iron sulfate, bent to the ground and covered, for example, with spruce branches.
Resistant to gray rot.
Sugar content - 16-18% , acidity - 5% .
Light-loving, undemanding to soil - only dislikes swampy and saline soils.
The grape yield is high - 30 tons per hectare , but rather weak in the first years. High-yielding varieties are also Rkatsiteli, Pamyati Dombkovskaya and Alexa.
It is well stored after being removed from the bush; rot does not form on it, but it loses a little weight. Only in the second week of storage do the ridges turn a little brown.
Characterized by good transportability . It is pollinated and produces a stable harvest in any weather.
It develops well without treatment with gibberellin.
Attica berries contain a large amount of vitamins and help strengthen the immune system . A high content of vitamins is also observed in the varieties Knyaginya Olga, Black Panther and Bogatyanovsky.
Care
It is necessary to care for the vineyard from early spring to late autumn. Watering, fertilizing, gartering, treatment against diseases and pests, pruning - all agrotechnical techniques, without which it will be difficult to obtain a decent harvest.
Watering and fertilizing
Regularly watering grapes is very important in the first year of planting. A weakened, small root system is not yet able to extract water from the depths of the earth. Starting from the second year of planting, watering is carried out as needed.
If the summer is not abnormally hot and is accompanied by precipitation, then watering can be stopped
Starting from the second year of planting, watering is carried out as needed. If the summer is not abnormally hot and accompanied by precipitation, then watering can be stopped.
In dry years, grapes must be provided with a sufficient amount of moisture in the period before flowering and during the filling of berries.
They begin to feed the vineyard from the third year of planting. By this time, the plant selects all micronutrients from the ground.
It is enough to apply fertilizer twice a year:
- in early spring, before buds open;
- late autumn.
Agricultural technicians recommend applying fertilizers to trenches dug at a distance of 70-90 cm from the bushes.
The consumption per plant in early spring is as follows:
- 50 g of nitrogen fertilizers;
- 30 g potassium;
- 40 g phosphorus.
On the eve of the winter season, the proportions are maintained, with the exception of nitrogen fertilizers.
Bush formation and tying
The typical formation pattern for Violet early is 4 sleeves. The formation of the bush must begin immediately after the buds open:
- trim off all excess above-ground growth;
- remove unnecessary buds from perennial shoots.
There are two methods of forming Violet early:
- Bezshtambovy in 4 sleeves with shelter for the winter.
- Standard in two shoulders when grown without covering. The height of the stem is 1.2 m.
Standard formation of grapes: in two sleeves (top picture), in 4 sleeves (bottom picture); fruitful shoots hang down and are not tied up, as in the standardless form. After leaf fall, the pruning procedure is carried out. Recommended scheme for the formation of “Violet Early” in five sleeves. Two-year-old shoots are shortened by 2-3 buds, three-year-old shoots by 4-5 buds.
Diseases and pests
“Attica” is quite resistant to mildew, oidium, and very resistant to gray rot and other diseases.
It is enough to carry out only 1-2 sprayings with fungicides for prevention per season.
After the eyes open, it is best to spray the grapes with Topaz or Bayleton against oidium, to which Attica is completely unstable, before flowering with Acedan or Anthracol against mildew and anthracnose, and after flowering with Falcon (a three-component fungicide that protects grapes from oidium).
The undoubted advantage of “Attica” is that it is of no interest to wasps and other pests, such as spider mites, phylloxera grape itch and leaf rollers.
For the best yield, Attica grapes are best grown on a vertical trellis, using short or medium pruning.
Delight, Manicure Finger and Kesha feel quite good on vertical trellises.
It is better to graft it onto a vigorous rootstock in a well-lit area . The berries are usually consumed fresh, and they are also used to make excellent homemade wine and raisins .
Diversify your vineyard by planting the Attiki sultana vine and enjoy the beauty and benefits of its berries.
Growing
Reproduction is usually carried out using seedlings. When purchasing, pay attention to the condition of the cutting - its length must be at least 50 centimeters and it must have at least 3 developed root shoots, and there must be no damage or stains on the wood.
Cuttings should be planted in lighted areas, and the pH level of the soil should be between 6 and 7 units.
The landing algorithm looks like this:
- Dig a round hole in the ground; diameter and depth are about 50-60 centimeters.
- Mix compost (0.5 kg) and mineral fertilizers based on potassium and phosphorus (about 100 g), and then place this mixture at the bottom of the hole.
- Dissolve 4-5 g of potassium permanganate in 10 liters of water and place the roots of the cutting there for 1-2 minutes to disinfect.
- Take the seedling and place it in the hole, and then fill the hole with soil. Pour 1 bucket of water into the ground.
- 2-3 days after planting, add some potassium fertilizer to the ground and also mulch.
