Why strawberry bushes bloom but do not bear fruit and treatment methods

First version of overgrowth

Self-seeding We automatically leave ugly berries in the garden. But their seeds may well grow.

It is better to remove a bush that produces such ugly berries from the garden.

Have you ever tried to count how many seeds are in one strawberry? Depending on the size of the berry, there are from 80 to 350 pieces! In other words, we are sowing a huge amount of low-quality seeds. And the “savages,” I assure you, have amazing resilience. According to the “apple from apple tree” principle, bushes with corresponding frail genetics grow. They produce tasteless, non-standard colored berries - bitter or dry, dark fines or light pink. The latter may be large and even sweet, but it will be just a pale shadow of the original variety.

Version "mustached"

They begin to grow after flowering. There are a lot of them - one bush produces 5-8 or more whiskers, so the number has to be constantly monitored. Weekend summer residents have the hardest time in this matter. In one season, young rosettes will cover the ground with a continuous carpet.

One strawberry bush can produce dozens of mustaches

Version three - sad

Associated with the purchase of a used land plot. It’s good if the strawberry’s condition is normal, and the previous owner competently explains its “genealogy.” Otherwise, you will have to rely on chance or uproot with an unwavering hand. And then buy planting material, which still costs money.

Is it worth bothering with a neglected garden bed?

I think it's worth it. Why? Because you don’t want to lose a variety that has been proven over the years. Or there is no way to buy new planting material, and even without being deceived. You can also do this out of spite, or rather, out of principle. Frankly, it always seemed to me that an exhausted plant would be reborn if we gave it a “chance” - light, water, fertilizing. In our case, this is a strong strawberry bush that will produce full-sized berries and strong planting material - rosettes.

Care

Abundant fruiting twice a season greatly exhausts the bushes. Because of this, plants need especially careful care. It needs to start in early spring, after the snow has melted. You need to remove the old mulch and carefully inspect the beds. If there are exposed fibrous roots, they need to be spudded. Then loosen the soil in the area and mulch it with small sawdust.

Watering

Garden strawberries need abundant watering throughout the growing season.
The top layer of soil must be kept constantly moist, without dried soil “crust”.

It is best to pour water into the grooves between the rows. Or you can water the plants with a hose, simulating rain.

Transfer

Replanting in autumn is especially important for large-fruited varieties.
After 1 - 2 years, depletion occurs, as a result of which the berries become smaller. Frequently moving to a new area will also prevent pests living in the soil from accumulating.

Features: It is advisable to transplant before the beginning of September. This will allow the bushes to fully prepare for winter.

For this:

1. Dig the area to the depth of a spade bayonet, remove all roots of weeds;
2. Add 1 bucket of humus and 30 grams of phosphorus fertilizer per square meter to the ground;
3. Harrow with a rake and leave the area for 14 days;
4. Mark the area, then dig holes up to 20 centimeters deep;
5. Transfer the plants into the holes using the transshipment method and cover with soil;
6. Mulch the bed with sawdust.

After this, the bed with the transplanted plants is watered abundantly.

Top dressing

Bushes of remontant varieties are greatly weakened by abundant fruiting during the season. To correct the situation, liquid fertilizer is used:

• Urea;
• Bird droppings;
• Slurry.

It is applied in early June, before flowering. The dosage of the drug is 10 liters per 1 square meter.

Wintering

Preparation for winter includes:

1. Trimming dry leaves and tendrils;
2. Mulching with straw, peat or dry leaves.

DSD varieties are often exposed to early frosts. This leads to the loss of part of the harvest. If there is a risk of early cooling in September, they are grown under covering material. It is best to use spunbond for this. The bushes can be watered without removing the cover.

How can you cultivate strawberries in one season?

Cultivation paired with reproduction

Simultaneously with the resuscitation of strawberries, it becomes possible to propagate your favorite variety. To obtain sockets:

Video: how to maintain the youth of strawberry plantings

Updating old plantings

The culprits of thickening are not always mustaches or self-seeding. It is known that strawberry plants are renewed regularly every 3–4 years. Because the plant is exhausted, the yield decreases. Why is this happening? It is known that on the main root of the strawberry bush there is an annual growth of horns - young plants with their own roots. Every year the bush matures and grows. Old and young roots intertwine, turning into a huge tangled ball. The leaves also become crowded - the bed takes on an unkempt appearance. In this case, bushes are planted in the fall.

Video: how to plant strawberries

Strawberry cultivation is a standard set of activities. It is used in beds of any degree of abandonment. And in each case, you will find a pleasant result in the form of sweet berries and pride in yourself.

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Agricultural technology for growing strawberries

Strawberries are the most beloved and most widespread crop. Strawberries reproduce well, take root well, and are not very demanding on soil fertility and climate. With good and competent care, you can get a generous harvest of strawberries every season.

Strawberry, or wild strawberry, is a plant up to 30 cm high. Strawberries are propagated by rooting tendrils. For good growth and reproduction of strawberries, an air temperature of 8 degrees is sufficient. At lower temperatures, strawberry growth is inhibited. Plants take root very well within 4 weeks. The best time for planting strawberry seedlings in central Russia is May. But strawberries can be planted from July to September with good watering.

Strawberries with green leaves overwinter. With the onset of spring, the bushes begin to develop new young leaves and roots.

Strawberries are propagated by tendrils and rosettes of leaves. It is better to purchase planting material from a nursery or from experienced collectors. When buying seedlings, choose one that has 3-5 leaves, a whole heart and white succulent roots.

Strawberries are the most popular and beloved berry crop. It is grown almost everywhere, in any garden, garden, and if the climate is harsh, then in greenhouses. It grows and bears fruit not only among professionals, but also among ordinary people. But it happens that strawberries, even with vigorous flowering, cannot produce berries. We will talk about what this is connected with and how to fix it in this article.

Why don't strawberries produce mustaches and what to do?

The juicy and sweet taste of strawberries makes them a “welcome guest” both in summer cottages and in farm fields. However, obtaining a good harvest of this berry is impossible without taking into account many nuances of agricultural technology, including proper plant propagation. Often new bushes are obtained with the help of so-called tendrils - long and thin leafless shoots that grow strawberry bushes. Therefore, it is worth understanding in what cases strawberries may not produce whiskers, and also understand what needs to be done in such situations.

When do you cut off the first tendrils of strawberries after planting?

If you purchased young bushes at the market and have no idea how they bear fruit, it is best to do the following. Immediately after planting, you need to wait to divide the bushes and increase the number of beds.

When to trim the first mustache of strawberries after planting:

• First of all, it is necessary to feed the bushes, tear off all the mustaches that form in the first year. It is necessary that the plant takes root in the first year, its root system strengthens, and strong leaves grow.
• Of course, you shouldn’t expect a good strawberry harvest in the first year. The main mistake that gardeners make with new bushes is not trimming the mustache and allowing the strawberries to bear fruit. As a result, frail bushes, weak roots, and small berries grow.
• The bush tries to perform several functions at the same time: to produce a good harvest of berries, grow foliage, and also gain a foothold in a new place. The plant does not have enough energy, the results are very average. As a result, you will not get either good sprouts for subsequent planting or an excellent harvest.

Berries

Reasons for the disappearance of mustaches

There are several possible reasons why mustaches do not grow on garden strawberry bushes. The most common are the following:

In turn, a lack of strength in a strawberry bush can be caused by the following reasons:

Thus, it is necessary to distinguish between cases when strawberries do not grow shoots in principle due to the characteristics of the variety, and situations when last season the same variety produced a lot of shoots, but this year the vegetative shoots do not grow.

In the first case, no special actions need to be taken, while in the second case, the disappearance of the mustache may be evidence of serious problems that need to be urgently addressed so as not to lose the harvest.

Reason 1: lack of moisture and nutrients

Perhaps the berries are deprived of nutrients or moisture. Experienced gardeners and summer residents always feed faded strawberries with complete mineral fertilizer and water them during dry periods.

Strawberries are among the berries that are demanding on the soil, which indicates the need to know the nuances of using fertilizers.

• If the growth rate of the bushes leaves much to be desired, it is advisable to enrich the soil with nitrogen in early spring. Peat oxidation would be useful. In principle, you can limit yourself to organic matter, for example, manure, chicken droppings. Fertilizers are applied under the roots in a 2-centimeter layer and sprinkled with soil. To prepare a solution, 1 liter of organic matter is diluted in 10 liters of water. Nitrogen fertilizers accelerate plant growth, but the main thing here is not to overdo it. Excess nitrogen will cause the development of vegetative mass to the detriment of fruiting.
• At the beginning of the season, and then at the end, after pruning the bushes, it is good to feed the strawberries with wood ash. Preparation of liquid solution: ash (2 tbsp.) + boiling water. Infusion time is two to three hours. The product is dissolved in 10 liters of water. 0.5 liters of fertilizer is poured under each bush. Wood ash contains more than 30 useful elements, and there is absolutely no chlorine, which is harmful to strawberries.
• At the beginning of growth, fertilizing with a mixture of urea and microelements is effective: water (10 l) + urea (20 g) + ammonium molybdate (2 g) + boric acid. We remind you that boric acid should be dissolved in warm water.

An excellent way to increase the harvest is to feed the berry garden and mulch the bushes with a 10-centimeter layer of chopped straw. It is not for nothing that when translated from English, the name of garden strawberry is literally translated as “straw berry”. Instead of straw, you can use dry hay, sawdust, tree bark, humus or rotted manure.

It is worth noting that if the soil was well amended before planting the strawberries, then for the first couple of years you can limit yourself to only adding wood ash. After all, excess fertilizer can also lead to a decrease in yield.

Reproduction using whiskers

Let's consider the features of agricultural technology when propagating strawberries with mustaches. The most important rule to remember is that for each individual bush you will have to choose whether it will be used this season for propagation or for harvesting. Even the healthiest garden strawberry bush will not have enough strength to fully form both the mustache and the fruit. At best, it will produce small and not very juicy berries.

Therefore, for propagation you need to choose the strongest bushes. At the same time, in the first year of plant life, the mustache must be trimmed from all growing bushes. Firstly, two-year and three-year-old plants are much more “yielding” in terms of whisker growth than annual plants. Secondly, in the first season, all bushes should be allowed to bear fruit in order to select the most suitable ones for subsequent propagation. At the end of the season, those bushes that produced the largest berries are planted in a separate area, which is called the queen cell.

When should strawberries be trimmed in the summer?

It all depends on the variety of strawberries, as well as your goals for this and next season. If you do not plan to propagate the bushes and increase the planting of strawberries, then you need to remove the mustache at any convenient time, as often as possible.

When should strawberries be trimmed in summer?

• Professionals recommend removing mustaches in early spring, 10 days after frost. That's when you will see the first leaves. During this period, it is necessary to remove the mustache that has remained since the fall.
• Next, removal is carried out during flowering, or during the appearance of berries. It depends on what you are going to do with the bush. If you plan to divide the bush, you need to let the strawberries bloom and the berries begin to form.
• If you want to get a rich harvest, then you need to remove additional tendrils during flowering. In this case, all the plant’s forces will go to feeding the fruits. As a result, you will get a good harvest of large berries.

Trimming

Varieties without whiskers

Many varieties of remontant strawberries (the so-called breeds that produce crops more than once per season) in principle do not form mustaches. The most famous varieties of strawberries that do not produce mustaches:

Some varieties of remontant garden strawberries, although they produce mustaches, are in small quantities, so it is preferable to propagate them in the same way as non-mustache varieties. These varieties include:

Reproduction without whiskers

If the strawberry you have chosen for growing produces insufficient runners or does not produce them at all, then you can propagate it either using seeds or by dividing adult bushes. The rules for planting divided bushes coincide with the basics of agricultural technology when planting new strawberry bushes. The main thing is to prepare the site in advance, clear it of weeds and mulch the soil a week before the planned planting of the crop. After a month, you need to check how well the planted bushes have taken root. If a plant looks noticeably weaker than its neighbors in the garden, it is better to remove it and plant a new bush in its place.

The easiest way to plant remontant varieties with seeds is to take a ripe berry, spread it on the ground and cover it with sawdust. After waiting for the shoots to emerge, you need to identify the strongest bushes and transplant them into seedlings.

A more complex and reliable method is to use seeds purchased or separated from fruits. They need to be mixed with sand and scattered evenly over the surface of the planned bed. After this, the area is covered with agrofilm. The best time to plant strawberries with seeds is the end of March or the beginning of April.

It is worth considering that although vineless strawberry varieties can theoretically grow in one place for several seasons, in practice, after a few years the bushes become too dense, which reduces their yield. Therefore, to maintain the ability of plants to bear fruit, it is necessary to divide the bushes every four years and transplant the separated part to a new bed.

To learn why strawberries don’t produce mustaches and what to do, watch the following video.

Source

Planting remontant strawberries: step-by-step instructions

In order for your strawberries to grow and bear fruit safely, you must adhere to several rules at the planting stage.

Seedling

1. First, decide on the variety you want to grow.
2. Buy seeds, it is better to take several varieties.
3. Fill the prepared container with soil and loosen the soil well. Don't water.
4. Scatter the seeds over the surface and spray with water from a spray bottle.
5. Cover the container with plastic wrap and place in a sunny, warm place.
6. In a few days the shoots will appear; your task is to provide them with timely watering, but do not overdo it.

Planting in open ground

1. Strawberries are planted in autumn or spring, in early May. Here gardeners' opinions are divided, but if you do everything correctly, your plant will not die in any case.
2. Choose a location. Remember, remontant strawberries need a lot of space.
3. Loosen the soil well and deeply enough.
4. Make holes 20 - 25 centimeters deep.
5. Two weeks before planting, fertilize the soil with compost or humus. Immediately before planting, apply potassium-phosphorus fertilizers directly into the hole.
6. Remove the seedling from the container and carefully remove the roots from the ground.
7. Make a small mound at the bottom of the hole, place the seedling on it so that its roots do not bend, but go completely down the mound.
8. Sprinkle the seedling with soil so that the central bud “heart” is under no circumstances covered with soil. Do not deepen the seedling too much when planting.

Soil requirements

Like most plants, the health and yield of remontant strawberries depends in part on the soil. It is worth noting that the area where raspberries, potatoes, cabbage or tomatoes previously grew is not suitable for growing strawberries. The soil must be fertile and well-permeable, such as sandy loam and loam. In addition, the soil should not be acidic.

Landing dates

Experienced gardeners recommend planting in autumn or spring. Spring planting most often occurs in May, when sharp drops in temperatures are not expected. Fall planting is usually planned for late summer to mid-autumn, starting in late August and ending in early October.

How to plant

Strawberries can be planted in rows or in carpets. If you decide to plant strawberries in rows, then keep a distance between the bushes of 30 centimeters, and the distance between the rows should be at least 60 centimeters. If you decide to plant strawberries using the carpet method, then stick to the 25x25 pattern.

Strawberry varieties without mustache to bookmarks 60

Beardless strawberries - the best varieties

The strawberry that does not produce whiskers is the Remontant strawberry.

Remontant strawberries bear fruit 2 times per season, and some varieties bear fruit all season without interruption. Beardless strawberry is a plant that can grow in one place for many years. But each bush thickens quite quickly and the fruiting of plants decreases. Therefore, once every four years, the bushes need to be replanted. Strawberryless strawberries bloom and bear fruit from June to September; overripe berries fall to the ground. By the way, the size of the berries, aroma and taste are very reminiscent of wild strawberries. Only beardless is far ahead of its forest relative in terms of productivity. Therefore, beardless strawberries are grown in the countryside, including for sale under the guise of wild strawberries.

Advice. It is better not to place the mustachioed strawberries next to the mustachioed ones. Otherwise, it may turn out to be such a mess that you won’t be able to figure it out.

The beardless ones are usually planted in one row along the paths. It can also be used to limit flower beds and alpine slides. That is, this plant does not require a specific bed and never “runs over” from one place to another.

Bushes with white flowers and red berries stand out very favorably both in the flower bed and along the paths throughout the summer.

Beardless strawberries are quite resistant to diseases and pests, from which ordinary strawberries suffer greatly.

VARIETIES OF STRAWBERRY

Until recently, the varieties Ada and Sakhalinskaya remontantnaya were in demand among bare strawberries.

But recently they have been replaced by the varieties Ali Baba, Baron Solemacher, Rügen, and Yellow Miracle. The main advantage of these varieties is that they are able to produce crops in the first year after planting.

It is also important that remontant varieties are shade-tolerant. You can get a harvest from them even between the rows of the garden, or by growing them in pots on the windowsill.

It is interesting that during seed propagation of beardless strawberries, no splitting of characteristics occurs. That is, the seedlings will be exactly the same as the original variety. Therefore, feel free to plant their seeds in boxes with soil in March. They should be shallow, 5-7 cm thick, but wide.

The soil is prepared from equal parts of peat, sand, compost and turf soil. It is useful to add 1 teaspoon of AVA universal fertilizer to a bucket of such a mixture.

The soil is properly watered and covered with a layer of snow, which is compacted with a spoon, and seeds are sown on it. They will be clearly visible against the background of snow, and it will immediately be clear where it is dense and where it is empty. It is better to sow seeds at a distance of 2 cm from each other.

By the way, the seeds are not buried in the soil. Typically, deepening is contraindicated for all small seeds, as they need light to germinate. The snow, having melted, will itself draw the seeds into the soil, and they will sprout well.

Strawberries on the balcony and windowsill all year round

Remontant varieties are best suited for growing on the balcony.

This allows you to get a large harvest from 2 - 3 bushes. Climbing and large-fruited varieties are ideal for this.

They not only bear fruit abundantly, but also look good. Growing remontant strawberries consists of the following stages:

1. Sowing seeds for seedlings. To do this, you can use a ready-made nutrient mixture or prepare it yourself. Seeds are sown in boxes with it. After 2–3 leaves appear, the seedlings are planted.
2. Planting in a permanent place. Strong seedlings are transplanted into hanging flowerpots, baskets or boxes.

Care is almost the same as in open ground. In October - November, flowerpots or baskets can be left on a glassed, warm balcony. In the self-care program, only moderate watering is required; no feeding is necessary. This will provide the plant with proper rest during the dormant period and a good harvest for the next year.

How to propagate strawberries that don't produce whiskers

Adding an article to a new collection

Everyone loves strawberries - not everyone likes to care for them. For such summer residents, breeders have developed a special species - barkless strawberries. Let's talk about ways to breed it.

Garden strawberries (garden strawberries) are very popular among gardeners. It does not form mustaches, which cause so much trouble, but for a long time it provides you with a rich harvest of large and sweet berries. It is easy to care for. Needless to say, the perfect berry! Although no, it does have one drawback: it is quite difficult to propagate. And all because she doesn't have a mustache.

How to propagate beardless strawberries

There are two main ways to propagate beardless strawberries - by dividing the bush and propagating it with seeds.

Propagation of beardless strawberries by dividing the bush

By dividing the bush, not only strawberries are often propagated, but also any very rare or expensive varieties of this berry. Only bushes that have reached three years of age are suitable for this method of division.

During the propagation process, horns (annual shoots) with apical buds are separated from the perennial rhizome. Each division must have at least one growing point and roots. Thanks to the large number of horns, up to a dozen new plants can be obtained from one bush.

The best time for this is early spring or late August - early September.

How to properly propagate beardless strawberries by dividing the bush?

1. If you have clay soil, water the bushes you are planning to divide. This way the roots will be less damaged when digging.

2. Dig up a mature strawberry bush with a shovel or pitchfork and remove it from the ground.

3. Place the bush in water and wash away the soil from the roots.

4. Divide the bush into separate sections. The horns are easily separated from the rhizome by hand, so there is no need to cut them with a knife.

If there are a lot of leaves on the shoot, some of them can be cut off. This way, the young seedling will not waste its energy on growing extra leaves, but will use it to develop the root system.

5. Water the hole prepared in advance. Lower the bush there and carefully straighten the roots.

6. Compact the soil around the plant. Make sure that the apical bud (core of the shoot) is above ground level, otherwise the planted bush will die.

Young seedlings need moist soil and light shade. This will make the rooting process faster.

Propagation of beardless strawberries by seeds

If you decide to propagate beardless garden strawberries from seeds, then you will have to put in more effort. However, according to gardeners, seedlings obtained in this way are stronger and healthier than when dividing a bush.

Collecting seeds

The first thing to do is get the seeds. To do this, select the largest and ripest berry and cut off the thin top layer with grains from it. Place the cut part in a sunny place. When it dries, the seeds will be easy to get out. The easiest way to separate the small strawberry seeds from the pulp is to simply grind them.

Stratification

Place the seeds obtained in this way in a tightly closed paper or plastic bag. Any dark place with a low temperature of 12-16°C is suitable for storing them. Seeds cannot be stored in the refrigerator, because... There is high humidity there, and they don’t like it.

Strawberry seeds that are kept in the right conditions are, in principle, ready for planting. But in order to increase their germination level, one should not neglect such a stage of seed preparation as stratification.

Take wet sand and mix it with dried strawberry seeds. Place everything in a glass container and leave it for a month in a place where the temperature is just above zero, for example, in the refrigerator.

Soil preparation

Sowing of seeds “hardened” in this way is carried out in the last weeks of February. Strawberries like light, fertile soil with a low acidity level. Such soil for berry gardens can be purchased in special stores, or you can prepare it yourself. To do this, mix leaf soil with rotted manure or compost in a 1:1 ratio.

Soil disinfection

To make the prepared soil safe, it must be disinfected. This can be done in several ways:

Sowing seeds

The soil is ready, the seeds too - now it’s time to proceed to the most important stage. Place the seeds on moistened soil (this can be done with a knitting needle, tweezers or a toothpick), lightly press them into the ground and cover with a paper napkin.

Strawberry seeds can be easily pressed into the ground. There is no need to cover them on top with even a thin layer of soil.

Moisten the napkin with a spray bottle and cover the top with glass or transparent plastic film. This will help maintain the optimal temperature for seed germination – 22°C. Make sure that the napkin always remains damp. You need to remove the glass from the “greenhouse” every day to ventilate it.

Seedling care

After about 2 weeks you will see the first shoots. After the seedlings appear, remove all layers from them and place the containers with plants in a bright place. Do not forget to water them regularly - this can be done, for example, using a pipette, so as not to damage the tiny sprouts. After the appearance of the 2nd true leaf, the strawberry bushes need to be planted in separate pots.

Feeding

When another leaf appears, you can start feeding the plants. These can be fertilizers such as Novofert Yagoda, Kemira Lux, as well as any others that you can purchase in a specialized store.

Planting in open ground

When the plants have 4-5 leaves (April-May), they can be planted in open ground. Before planting, take the pots with strawberry bushes out into the open air for several hours every day. This will help them subsequently endure the transplant more easily and quickly adapt to new conditions.

Types of remontant strawberries

Remontant strawberries have many varieties; they differ in terms of ripening, the number of harvests per season, and the size and taste characteristics of the fruits themselves.

Short and neutral daylight hours

The most popular remontant strawberries are those that bear fruit during neutral daylight hours (NDS), that is, from May to October, or short-day strawberries, which begin to bear fruit from July to early September.

Aromas

A popular variety of remontant strawberry, it was bred by American breeders. The fruits are quite large, the weight of one berry is about 30 grams. The taste is sweet and sour, but if the plant has enough sun and warmth, the sweetness becomes more intense. The color is bright red; the more intense the color of the fruit, the sweeter it is.

Brighton

An unusual variety of remontant strawberries. Its peculiarity lies in the non-standard taste of the berries, which resembles the taste of pineapple. The fruits themselves have the correct shape and bright red color. The weight of one fruit can reach up to 70 grams. Another advantage of this variety is its high resistance to diseases, especially gray rot.

Vivara

This variety was bred by Italian breeders for use on an industrial scale. The variety brings a rich harvest, and to be more precise, you can harvest three times in a season. The fruits are large, with high taste characteristics. The Italians developed a variety with high disease resistance and high resistance to low temperatures.

Diamond

Another variety bred by American breeders. This variety of strawberries can be grown both in open ground and grown, for example, in a pot on the balcony. The berries are medium-sized, red with an orange tint. The fruits are distinguished by their density, which allows them to be stored for quite a long time, but some consider high density to be a disadvantage, since such a structure is not characteristic of strawberries.

Murano

This variety is considered one of the most popular. Italian scientists developed it not so long ago and it was intended for restaurants and confectionery shops because of its rich sweet taste. The berries are bright red, regular in shape. This variety bears fruit almost continuously and is highly resistant to diseases and low temperatures.

Selva

This variety was bred by American breeders; they wanted to create a variety whose fruits would have good taste, high shelf life, productivity and disease resistance. Selva also has high frost resistance and bears fruit until frost.

Flamenco

By planting this variety on your site, you can guarantee yourself a large harvest because one plant can produce about one and a half kilograms of berries. The variety is characterized by special resistance to fungal diseases. Flamenco was bred by British breeders and they endowed the variety with high keeping quality. Due to its perfect taste, the variety is recommended to be consumed raw.

Furor

This new product from Dutch breeders really made a splash on the world market. The plant is characterized by the rapid formation of new flower stalks, therefore, during the season, it bears fruit almost continuously. The berries are medium-sized, bright red, have a pleasant sweet and sour taste, the flesh is firm but juicy.

Large-fruited long daylight

Agree, it’s nice to take a large strawberry and eat it not just by putting it in your mouth, but to enjoy the taste by slowly biting off the juicy pulp from the large berry.

Now we will introduce you to the most popular large-fruited varieties.

Garland

Bred by Moscow breeders, this variety acquired vitality unusual for strawberries. The variety is quite productive, but if the care rules are not followed, the berries may be smaller than expected. Although the garland can do without sensitive attention, it is quite vulnerable during the rainy season. The taste cannot be said to have any peculiarities, but there is a slight sourness. The variety is not transportable.

Mount Everest

The variety appeared by crossing two others. British breeders endowed Everest with resistance to diseases of various pathogens and resistance to low temperatures. Three times a season it bears fruit with sweet and sour fruits, which have a high shelf life. Requires special care in the first year of cultivation.

Countess

Unlike many other varieties, Countess has a sweet strawberry aroma. It is worth noting that this variety has very few mustaches. The bright red fruits are large and very sweet; they can be harvested twice per season. Due to the small number of whiskers, it is problematic to reproduce.

Golden

This variety got its name due to the color of the berries; the fruits of this plant are white-yellow or yellow. An early ripening variety of remontant strawberry, its fruits are frankly small, only about two grams, but the taste is higher than that of red strawberries. In addition, this variety is very productive and has no mustache at all, which is considered a big plus.

Temptation

Another early ripening variety that bears fruit right up to frost. Very productive, you can harvest up to 1.5 kilograms from a bush. This variety can be grown both in open ground and in hanging pots at home. They note the unusual taste of the berries - nutmeg, but the berries themselves are medium in size, weighing 30 grams per one.

Cabrillo

The variety was bred by American breeders, grows and bears fruit well in the middle zone, is frost-resistant, and does not require shelter for the winter. The yield is high, about 2 kilograms per bush, and bears fruit at least three times per season. The berries have excellent keeping quality, the fruits themselves are elastic and have a sweet taste.

Queen Elizabeth 2

Takes its name from its predecessor Queen Elizabeth, which was improved through selective breeding. This variety is distinguished by its large fruit mass; one berry can reach a weight of 60 grams. The high shelf life of the berries is due to the elasticity of the fruit. Not bad taste indicators. Early ripening, frost-resistant variety.

Malga

A product of Italian breeders, Malga quickly burst onto the world market and took one of the leading positions, all thanks to its properties. The fruits of this variety are large, red with an orange tint, and have no voids inside. This is a high-yielding variety, suitable for cultivation on an industrial scale. In addition, this variety is frost- and drought-resistant, is not afraid of the scorching sun, and has high resistance to diseases.

Maestro

This variety was bred by French breeders. Maestro has very large fruits, the average weight of one berry is 90 grams. The berries are delicious, very sweet and juicy. This plant has a very strong root system, which allows it to not be afraid of drought and heat. The harvest is consistently high. Suitable for growing both on a personal plot and on an industrial scale.

Monterey

This variety was bred at the University of California not so long ago. This plant has a large bush, so it requires a lot of space for planting. The weight of the berries reaches up to 40 grams, the fruits are dark red in color. The harvest is harvested from the end of May until the start of frost.

Moscow delicacy

The variety was bred in Russia with the support of Dutch specialists. The fruits of this variety are medium in size, but quite sweet and have an unusual aroma; the berries themselves are large, up to 50 grams. The yield is average, about 1 kilogram per bush. This variety is perfect for consumption both fresh and processed, but due to its not very high shelf life, it is not suitable for production on an industrial scale.

Ostara

This variety was bred by Dutch breeders more than 50 years ago. The berries are juicy and aromatic, the average weight of the berry is 30 grams, the taste is sweet and sour and very aromatic. This plant is completely unpretentious to soil, nature and weather. Suitable for growing on a personal plot, but due to its low keeping quality, it is not suitable for breeding on an industrial scale.

Portola

One of the favorite varieties among domestic gardeners. The product of selection by American specialists has taken root well at our latitudes. This variety is not picky about soil and weather conditions. The berries are medium in size, average fruit weight is 30 grams, bright red in color, have a good dessert taste and an unusual aroma. Productivity up to 2 kilograms per bush. Ripens from the end of June until the start of frost.

Profusion

This variety is the result of selection by French specialists. Refers to early ripening varieties. The fruits are quite large, about 50 grams. The taste is high, the berries have a sweet and sour taste and a strong aroma. The plant has high frost resistance and disease resistance. It tolerates transportation well and is therefore ideal for breeding on an industrial scale.

Referent

Thanks to its characteristics, this variety can compete with the most popular varieties of remontant strawberries. This is a fairly universal variety; it can be planted both in greenhouses and in open ground. Thanks to its strong bush, this plant has the highest frost resistance among other species. The fruits have good taste. The yield is high, up to 2.5 kilograms per bush.

Rowena

The variety was bred for cultivation in extreme conditions and unfavorable soils. Rowena perfectly tolerates both heat with drought and frost with downpours, so this variety will take root well in any region. The berries are quite large, one weighs about 50 grams, dense, bright red in color, and quite sweet. The yield is high, 1.5 kilograms per bush. Has high resistance to diseases.

San Andres

This is a hybrid created by American breeders. The berries are medium in size, the weight of one fruit is about 30 grams, the color is bright red on the outside and orange on the inside. The berry itself is sweet and juicy, with a slight sourness. The plant has a well-developed root system, therefore, it tolerates weather fluctuations well. The yield is average, up to 1 kilogram per bush.

Cesan

This variety is called the best large-fruited representative of remontant strawberries. The fruits have good taste, the berries are large, up to 50 grams, sweet with a pleasant sourness. One of the features of this variety is its complete unpretentiousness in cultivation. Can grow in regions with any climate and weather conditions. The yield is average, up to 1 kilogram per bush.

Elan

An excellent Dutch hybrid of remontant strawberries. Fruits all season long, from the end of May until the first snow falls. The fruits are distinguished by their special sweetness, which does not disappear with the onset of autumn; the berry itself is quite large, and the larger it is, the more pronounced its unusual scallop shape becomes. The yield is average, 1 kilogram per bush. High frost resistance.

Bearless strawberry

At first glance, beardless strawberries do not have any special advantages, since such varieties are problematic to propagate, but this is not so. Beardless strawberries not only delight with their fragrant and large berries, but also with their ease of care. Today, many varieties of such strawberries have been bred, and they are no worse than others.

Alexandria

This beardless variety is quite popular among gardeners. Despite its small size, this variety is high-yielding; the berries are very aromatic and sweet in taste. Alexandria has high resistance to low temperatures, which allows it to bear fruit until frost. Moreover, the variety is also resistant to many diseases.

Ali Baba

If you want to plant an unpretentious variety with tasty berries, then plant Ali Baba. The features of this variety include its endurance to high and low temperatures, and practical invulnerability to diseases and pests. The berries are small but sweet. Fruits of this variety are universal in consumption: the fruits are good both raw and processed.

Albion

Growing a variety of strawberries such as Albion is popular for industrial purposes. The variety is known for its good keeping quality and high yield. If you follow all the rules of agricultural technology, you can harvest 4 times per season. Albion is quite frost-resistant, but is also resistant to many diseases. The fruits are scarlet-red on the outside, glossy, quite large and sweet.

Baron Solemacher

This variety is almost a century old, but Baron Solemacher continues to lead. German breeders endowed the variety with many advantages. The variety is not afraid of frequent temperature fluctuations, and it can be grown both outdoors and indoors. Baron Solemacher brings a rich harvest in the form of small and sweet berries.

Snow White

If you've always wanted to experiment, then plant Snow White. The variety is quite problematic to care for, and it cannot be called high-yielding either, but the fruits of Snow White are very sweet. But the most important difference from other varieties is the color of the berry - white.

Vima Rima

This variety was bred by Dutch breeders and has many advantages. When grown, the variety is characterized by high resistance to fungal diseases. Temperature fluctuations also do not frighten Vima Rima. The variety is classified as a late ripening variety; fruiting continues until the first frost. The fruits are also characterized by good transportability.

Fragrant basket

For growing at home, this is the best variety. The low shelf life, fortunately, does not affect the taste of the berries themselves. The fruits are very sweet and many note their rich vitamin composition. The variety is practically invulnerable to diseases and pests. It is worth noting the wintering of the Fragrant Onion: experienced gardeners recommend covering the variety for the winter.

Yellow miracle

Unlike almost all other strawberry varieties, Yellow Miracle is ideal for allergy sufferers. In addition to this advantage, the variety is characterized by very tasty and sweet yellow berries. The yellow miracle has been demonstrating its resistance to temperature fluctuations, diseases and pests for many years. Moreover, unlike others, this variety is not susceptible to attack by birds.

Lyubasha

A variety like Lyubasha is the owner of not only the sweetest and most delicious berries, but also rich in useful microelements. The variety is characterized by high yield and resistance to frost. Lyubasha is not particularly resistant to diseases, but is extremely vulnerable to the strawberry mite. On especially hot days, the variety needs help.

Ruyana

Ruyana was bred by Czech breeders and as a result was endowed with a fragrant aroma. Although the harvest from this variety should be expected only in the second year, the fruiting period will last until snow falls. The fruits are quite sweet and tasty, universal in consumption and quite transportable. The variety is not affected by some diseases and is highly resistant to pests.

Sashenka

This is also a fairly tenacious variety. Sashenka’s harvest depends on compliance with the correct agricultural practices of the plant. With proper care, the berries grow fragrant and large, with a sweet and sour taste; such berries are easy to transport. The variety is not afraid of temperature changes and is very frost-resistant. Sashenka is quite unpretentious in care, the main thing is to prevent the plant from becoming waterlogged.

Rügen

It is also a product of German breeders. The variety has already gained popularity among our summer residents due to its ease of care and taste characteristics of the berries. Some note that this particular variety is rich in iron. Rügen has high resistance to diseases and is a fairly frost-resistant variety, but during snowless winters it should be covered.

Sweet hearts

The variety differs from many others in that the berries on one bush can be of different colors: red or yellow. Sweet hearts are a fairly productive variety; they can also be grown indoors; the fruiting period lasts until severe frosts. The berries, in addition to their color, are distinguished by their excellent taste and aroma.

Elsinore

Elsinore is an invention of Italian breeders; they endowed it with a high shelf life and the ability to produce a rich harvest, which can be harvested in 4 waves. The berries have a good taste and large size. The variety is resistant to many diseases and pests, and is also characterized by resistance to temperature fluctuations.

Evie 2

English breeders have created a variety that is resistant to climatic fluctuations: Evi 2. The variety is quite transportable and the shelf life of the berries is quite long. The fruits are tasty and have a sweet and sour taste. It is worth noting that a large harvest can be achieved by following the correct agricultural practices.