12 best options for dealing with late blight on tomatoes: drugs and folk remedies

Phytophthora - what is it?

The reason for the appearance of late blight lies in the fungus Phytophthora infestans, which can be translated as “vegetation destroyer.” Active reproduction begins with high humidity and cool temperatures (+10 - +20°C). If weather conditions are favorable for the fungus, then the first symptoms can be noticed 3–4 days after infection, and the development of the disease occurs very quickly.

It is important to notice the problem in a timely manner and begin to solve it, otherwise late blight will affect all the plants in the greenhouse, and there will be no talk of any harvest.

The fungal spores will survive the winter safely, which means infection will occur next season. Spores survive the cold period in the soil, potato tubers, and plant tops.

The disease also has another name, “brown tomato rot,” and it appeared because of the dark brown spots covering the stems and leaves of plants. At the next stage, a whitish coating appears - fungal spores.

The crop, which is initially hard, also becomes covered with brown spots, followed by softening of the fruit. Even if the tomatoes were picked while they were green and had no visible damage, then during ripening, spots may begin to form (if infected). The case ends with the death of the plant.

Features of the fight against the disease

Experienced gardeners believe that it is completely impossible to get rid of this disease.
It is especially difficult to do this in the confined space of a greenhouse; in 2-3 days, late blight, under favorable conditions, can destroy up to 80% of tomatoes.

To avoid disease and get a good harvest, you need to take protective measures to protect the plants.

Considering that fungal spores can be found on all surfaces of the structure, it is necessary:

• Carry out measures to disinfect the walls of greenhouses and soil.
• Use tools designated only for work in the greenhouse.
• Monitor the air temperature, avoiding sudden changes.
• Proper watering and ventilation.
• Carry out preventive measures to treat tomatoes with special means.

Reasons for the development of late blight in tomatoes

Before you begin to analyze ways to combat fungal disease, it is worth dwelling on the causes of the disease. Among the main ones are the following:

• planting tomatoes and potatoes in close proximity (diseases most often begin with the latter plant);
• excessive planting density, lack of ventilation between plants;
• with excessive accumulation of nitrogen in tomatoes, late blight (excess fertilizing) can also occur;
• improper watering of the crop, too much moisture. Root watering is recommended; it is organized in such a way that water does not fall on the stem and foliage.

Reasons for appearance

It is worth highlighting several reasons for the occurrence of late blight in a greenhouse, the main one is excess moisture , it appears:

• With poor or no ventilation.
• With a small distance between tomato bushes.
• Failure to comply with crop rotation rules.
• With frequent or improper watering.
• Under the influence of fog.
• The proliferation of fungal spores is also provoked by a sharp change in temperature, warm day - cool night.

One of the reasons for the appearance of late blight in a greenhouse is excessive fertilizing with nitrogen.

Important! To avoid late blight infection, it is prohibited to plant nightshade plants, especially potatoes, near the greenhouse with tomatoes.

Main signs of tomato disease

Late blight is a fungal disease that most often affects potatoes and tomatoes; peppers and eggplants are less susceptible to it.

The main signs of the disease include the following manifestations:

• spots of brown color and irregular shape appear on the stem;
• inflorescences become yellow or dark in color and quickly fall off;
• the leaves become covered with dark spots, then dry out and begin to fall off;
• Brown-gray or black spots appear on the fruits.

The disease itself begins to develop in conditions of high humidity, as soon as a suitable environment for the fungus is created, it begins to damage the leaves from the bottom. The leaf is covered with a white coating, it gradually moves to the other side of the leaf and already looks like brown spots.

After the leaves become spotted, the inflorescences begin to be damaged, dry out and fall off, then the turn of the fruits comes. The spots are brownish-gray in color, almost black, and cover the entire tomato.

With late blight, the peel thins, the pulp rots, and an unpleasant odor appears. After a few days, late blight will spread throughout the greenhouse, and if measures are not taken, the entire crop will most likely be lost.

Chemical sprays

In addition to folk remedies, you can use chemicals. Is it possible to spray tomatoes with this or that solution and what are they?

When tomatoes have not yet been planted in open ground, you can use Zircon and Epin solutions, which promote plant survival.

If the seedlings have become too long and have begun to outgrow, you need to use a tool such as Athlete. To the question - how to spray tomatoes against late blight, there is one answer: Fitosporin, as well as Hom. Copper sulfate is considered very useful for plants, which serves as a preventive measure for many diseases.

When tomatoes are attacked by pests, products such as Aktara or Actellik are used to combat them. When setting fruit, there is an excellent remedy - Ovary, which is excellent in cases where plants grow in not very favorable conditions.

When to spray tomatoes in a greenhouse

Very often, chemicals are used for preventive measures or to combat late blight, and if they are used correctly, they will not pose any threat to the health and life of people.

The drugs are used every 14 days. The start date for treatment is determined by the well-being of the tomatoes; as soon as the bushes acquire their first ovaries, you can begin to use the products. However, if the weather outside is rainy and cold, then it is worth starting treatment at an earlier date.

Control of late blight after harvest

After harvesting, it is necessary to carefully treat the soil and greenhouse.

Greenhouse treatment:

1. Carefully remove weeds, plant debris and other debris that may contain spores.
2. Clean equipment used in the greenhouse.
3. The greenhouse covering and other parts must be washed with soapy water or disinfectants such as bleach solution must be used; all wooden elements are coated with it. The metal frame is painted. After treatment with disinfectants, the greenhouse must be closed for 5 days, then the room is ventilated.
4. Biological agents, such as Fitosporin, are also used; they treat the entire room from ceiling to floor.
5. Fumigation is carried out with sulfur bombs “Fas”, “Climate”, etc. Instructions for use are described in detail on the packaging.
6. In extreme cases, they treat the room using chemicals such as a 5% Ecocid-S solution, a 3% Oxychoma solution, etc.
7. The following temperature effects are popular among gardeners: “freezing” and solar “roasting”.

Many people use complex measures to combat late blight in a greenhouse, for example: temperature and biological influences.

Soil treatment:

• Due to the confined space, the soil in the greenhouse quickly loses its structure, which does not have a beneficial effect on the plants. The best way to fix this is to replace the top layer.
• A less labor-intensive method is to select the roots and remains of the weeds, treat the soil with lime and sow white mustard.
• The complex effect of high temperature in combination with biological agents also gives good results.
• Chemical exposure in greenhouses is carried out with a hot solution of potassium permanganate or a solution of copper sulfate. After a few days, the soil is dug up and green manure is sown.

After such treatments, manganese and copper salts can accumulate in the soil; they inhibit the development of tomatoes, so you should not often resort to this type of impact on the soil.

How to treat tomatoes against late blight

There are several ways to protect crops from fungal diseases. Some summer residents use chemicals, others prefer biological, and still others use folk methods. All these means have their advantages and disadvantages, and everyone decides for themselves what to use.

Chemical methods

You can get acquainted with the most popular products produced by the chemical industry in the following table.

Chemicals to combat late blight

Biological drugs

Such remedies are interesting because their effects are much more beneficial during the growing season. If you regularly treat with one of the products, you can prevent the spread of late blight in the greenhouse. Preventive spraying is carried out at intervals of 14 days. If the disease is at an initial stage, then the gap should be reduced to 5 days.

The most popular means are the following:

• phytosporin;
• alirin – B;
• gamair.

Fitosporin. It can be of three types (powder, water-soluble liquid, thick paste). The product is suitable for both treatment and preventive treatments. Treatment with phytosporin is carried out on both sides of the sheet. The bush must be properly watered on each side.

Some gardeners add the product to the soil before planting seedlings. During the season, you can carry out twice the treatment. The first time is at the beginning of the growing season, the second time the tomatoes are processed after 14 days.

Alirin-B. Available in tablet or powder form. This product reduces soil toxicity. Use Alirin for spraying or apply the working solution by the root method.

Gamair. It is a product with a wide range of uses. It can be used for both garden and home plants. If the drug is used for prophylaxis, then its dosage should be halved. Gamair is used without fear when adding stimulants or insecticides. After preparing the working solution, it must be used on the same day and cannot be stored.

Traditional methods

Some gardeners prefer to use only folk remedies, instead of chemical ones, when cultivating their land. The most popular methods of combating late blight can be found in the following table.

Folk remedies against late blight

How to process tomatoes

All means of preventing and treating plants against late blight are divided into the following categories:

1. Agrotechnical practices, such as: removing weeds, burning garbage, disinfecting the land, etc. They create favorable development conditions for tomatoes. For example, land disinfection helps eliminate dangerous microorganisms in the soil and prevent infection. Weeds are also removed so as not to create conditions for the fungus to spread.
2. Chemicals. This group represents the most powerful compounds, which are most often used in strict accordance with dosages and directions for use. Most chemicals are phytotoxic, so the beds need to be treated with them two weeks before the bushes bear fruit.
3. Folk remedies. More affordable and easier to use drugs. Foliar spraying and treatment help combat late blight.

Preventive measures

To reduce the occurrence of late blight on the site, it is advisable to use the prevention of this disease:

1. Correct landing. Tomatoes should not be planted in the place where potatoes, peppers, and eggplants previously grew, and these crops should not be located nearby. An ideal place for tomatoes is the bed where cucumbers, beets, onions, etc. previously grew. It is best to plant tomatoes in a new location every year.
2. It is recommended to dilute soil with a high lime content with peat (it is added to the planting hole), and after planting, a small amount of sand is poured next to the bushes.
3. Tomatoes need to be planted maintaining the distance between the bushes and avoiding thickening of the plantings.
4. Watering should be at the roots, water should not get on the foliage and tomatoes. It is important not to forget about loosening the soil layer next to the bushes.
5. Carrying out mulching.
6. It is recommended to plant white mustard, calendula, marigolds, garlic and onions near tomatoes.
7. Timely pinching and cutting off unnecessary leaves.
8. Applying potassium and phosphorus fertilizers, spraying with immunostimulating substances to enhance the plant’s immune system.
9. Regular ventilation of the greenhouse.
10. Application of nitrogen fertilizers in the first half of the growing season, then excess nitrogen can provoke the appearance of late blight.

Following these simple rules will prevent tomatoes from becoming infected with a dangerous disease. Every gardener must remember that it is easier to prevent any illness than to treat it later.

Prevention

Effective control of late blight on tomatoes requires taking preventive measures and avoiding conditions that promote the development of the disease.

Tomatoes should be systematically monitored during the growing season at intervals of 5-7 days. During dangerous periods (high humidity and precipitation), plant inspections are carried out every 2-3 days.

Interventions are applied immediately when symptoms of the disease appear.

Methods for preventing late blight:

1. Avoid growing tomatoes in close proximity to potato fields (P. infestans infects plants from the nightshade family).
2. High plant density should be avoided. The denser the tomatoes grow, the less sunlight reaches the plants, the more humidity is created - ideal conditions for the development of fungal diseases. For the same reason, it is recommended to thin out tomatoes.
3. Tomatoes cannot grow in too high a density; the leaves of individual bushes should not touch each other.
4. Don't let tomatoes lie on the ground. Cover the soil around the bushes with non-woven material, black agrotextiles, and straw. Black agrotextiles accelerate the ripening of tomatoes and retain moisture in the soil. You can place boxes under the fruits.

5. It is recommended to remove the lower leaves of tomatoes when the fruits on the lowest branches ripen - on mature plants it is worth removing the lower leaves, leaving about 20 cm from the base of the bare stem. Germinated spores are often found in the ground; at the time of watering, the soil “splashes” onto the lower leaves, which leads to the occurrence of the disease. To get an even better protective effect, the soil around the tomato bushes can be mulched.
6. You should regularly remove small shoots of tomatoes growing from the corners of the leaves - stepsons (they are not needed - they weaken the harvest and cause excessive thickening).
7. Tall varieties of tomatoes form 2-3 stems. The lower density of the plant allows air to circulate.
8. Crops should not be placed in depressions, near bodies of water, where high humidity prevails and accumulated fogs contribute to the infection of tomatoes.
9. Producing healthy, pathogen-free tomato seedlings.
10. Compliance with crop rotation - in subsequent years, tomatoes should be planted in different places than in the previous one; tomatoes should not be planted after tomatoes or potatoes.
11. Careful removal of infected plants and plant debris after the end of the growing season.
12. Prevention of late blight on tomatoes in greenhouses and greenhouses includes regular decontamination or replacement of the soil.
13. Application of fertilizers with a high content of calcium and one of the most important microelements for tomatoes - boron.
14. You cannot overdo it with the use of nitrogen fertilizers - in excess they are unfavorable for both the plant and the substrate - they cause salinization.
15. When growing tomatoes indoors, it is extremely important to regularly ventilate greenhouses and plastic tunnels so that the air inside is not excessively humid.
16. You need to water the tomatoes carefully, without spraying the leaves, pour the water directly onto the soil.
17. Maintain hygiene - when removing infected parts of the bush, be careful not to touch healthy plants; tools should be washed thoroughly.
18. Apply copper-based fungicides before expected long-term precipitation events, especially when it is very hot.

It is important to choose varieties that are least susceptible to disease.

Tomato varieties resistant to late blight:

• Resistant varieties: Fantasio F1, Dubok, Ogorodnik, Perseus, Gypsy, Yuhas, Akademik Sakharov, Promik, Resonance, Velmozha, Orange Miracle, Grandmother's Secret.
• Tolerant varieties: Tatyana, Lancet, Cardinal, Atoll, De-barao.
• Moderately tolerant varieties: Cerrola F1.

Sometimes, even if you follow all the above tips, late blight will still attack your tomatoes. This scenario has been repeated many times by many gardeners. Therefore, the most important advice for preventing late blight.

Spray the ground around the tomatoes with a solution of copper (II) sulfate. This is copper sulfate, its chemical formula is CuSO4 + 5H2O.

Late blight spores can sit in the ground and wait for favorable conditions to develop. If the disease has already attacked the plants in previous years, rain will wash the spores off the plants and the soil will become infected. Therefore, it is always important to cultivate the soil after late blight in the fall to prepare it for planting and protect new plants.

Copper sulfate is a good, proven remedy for late blight. In addition, branded copper fungicides are quite expensive, and when tomato plantings are large, treatments are quite expensive. One kilogram of blue copper sulfate costs from 350 rubles, which is very cheap compared to fungicides, especially imported ones!

How to prepare a solution for spraying tomatoes against late blight from copper sulfate?

Dosage. To prepare the solution, dissolve 1 teaspoon of copper sulfate (about 5 g) in 1 liter of water.

It is easy to calculate that from 1 kg of copper sulfate you can prepare 200 liters of solution! This will be enough for the whole season.

Note: Copper sulfate (copper sulfate), although very attractive, is toxic. When working with it, take all precautions and wear protective clothing!

Useful tips for gardeners

The following recommendations will help minimize the possibility of late blight developing on the site.

• Proper nutrition of tomatoes

Nutrient mixtures with a high potassium content increase the immune system of tomatoes, and therefore improve resistance to disease. The greatest effect of foliar feeding of seedlings is spraying.

• Correct fit

Tomatoes require the right soil. It is important to prevent plantings from being too dense and to carry out weeding and pinching of shrubs in a timely manner.

• Use of products containing copper

One of the means of prevention is spraying tomatoes at the seedling stage with copper sulfate - 0.02%. After the bushes are planted in a permanent place and ovaries appear on three tassels, the leafy part of the plant is treated with Bordeaux mixture.

• Selection of specialized varieties

Today there are a large number of different varietal and hybrid types of tomatoes that have good resistance to late blight. It is recommended to focus on these tomatoes. You can also choose those varieties that have early fruit ripening.

Advice. When using seed material prepared on the farm, it is best to use those seeds that have already been stored for 3 years. Such seeds cease to be carriers of a fungus or virus.

Traditional methods

Plants with weak immunity are susceptible to any disease. Therefore, in such a case, it is important to have available means with you that at an early stage help prevent the development of late blight.

Hydrogen peroxide

The colorless liquid disinfects any damage to tomatoes and eliminates dangerous microbes that live in the soil. Also, due to the oxidative effect, peroxide improves the quality of water for spraying and irrigation.

As a preventative measure, moisten the soil with a peroxide solution at the rate of 3 liters of water per 60 ml of the product. If the disease has already appeared, then treat the stems and leaves with a peroxide solution at the rate of 1 liter of water per 2 tbsp. l. peroxide.

Copper sulfate

One of the advantages of copper sulfate is that it is not absorbed into the soil and tomatoes. The product is available and does not cause addiction in plants. The effect of the treatment lasts for two weeks.

To make the liquid you will need 50 g of granules and 5 liters of water. Treat tomato beds early in the morning or in the evening. If the weather forecast promises rain, it is better to postpone the procedure to another day.

Iodine

Another economical and effective method of preventing and controlling late blight. For 10 liters of water you will need 20 drops of iodine. In addition to treatment, the solution accelerates the development of bushes. It is recommended to treat the bushes with liquid every two weeks.

Experienced farmers also add 1 liter of skim milk to the solution. It forms a protective barrier on the leaves. The medicine can be used even during the ripening period of tomatoes.

Interesting . There is a legend about the invention of iodine. It appeared thanks to the French chemist Courtois Bernard in 1811. It is believed that the scientist’s cat is “to blame” for this: the pet jumped onto the table where there was an alcohol solution of seaweed ash and sulfuric acid. After accidentally mixing the liquids, iodine was obtained.

Kefir

To make the medicine you will need 1 liter of fermented kefir and 10 liters of water. In humid summer conditions, the bushes are sprayed every week. Also, instead of kefir, whey or milk is used. The product effectively fights fungus on both leaves and tomatoes.

Garlic and potassium permanganate

To prepare the product you will need 100 g of chopped garlic, 1 g of potassium permanganate and 10 liters of water. Spray the beds every 10 days. For 1 bush, 0.5 liters of solution is consumed.

Manganese is one of the most powerful drugs for disinfecting seeds, soil and bushes.

Wood tinder

Since ancient times, the mushroom has been famous for its beneficial properties. Take 100 g of dry crushed mushroom per 10 liters of boiling water. After the liquid has cooled, strain it. Use the product every 10 days.

How to prepare a greenhouse for winter after tomatoes

Experienced gardeners know that after harvesting in the greenhouse, careful work awaits to prepare the soil for winter. This is done in order to disinfect the soil and prepare it for the new season.

It is especially important to prepare the soil after plants that have suffered from various infectious, bacterial and fungal diseases

If it is not possible to replace the soil, it is treated with a solution based on fungicidal preparations

The greenhouse can be fumigated, but this should be done extremely carefully, following safety precautions. Using a sulfur bomb allows you to get rid of all infections, fungi and insects at once

For the winter, the soil must be dug up and fertilized with humus.

Tips for preparing the soil:

• Dig up;
• Fertilize with humus;
• Wash and treat the walls of the greenhouse;
• Treat the soil with a solution based on copper sulfate.

There are many methods for preparing the soil for planting new crops.

It is very important to pay attention to the fact that you cannot plant the same crop in the same place for several years in a row. If possible, it is better to replace the soil. If not, then you need to take its processing and fertilization with full responsibility.

Future plant growth and yield levels depend on soil preparation. The soil should be saturated with useful microelements; only asthenia will feel good in it

If not, then you need to take its processing and fertilization with all responsibility. Future plant growth and yield levels depend on soil preparation. The soil should be saturated with useful microelements; only asthenia will feel good in it.

How and when does late blight appear on tomatoes?

Late blight appears first on the leaves. Small dark, brownish or yellowish spots form, increasing over time. The leaves dry out and the disease spreads. Affected flowers fall off and the fruits rot.

Damage to tomato stem by late blight

Phytophthora spores enter the plant through the leaves, but for this they need moisture. Therefore, the development of late blight occurs in mid-summer, when rain is not uncommon and the nights are getting colder. Failure to follow watering rules (for example, sprinkling) also causes spores to enter the plant.

So, the disease most often occurs under the following conditions:

• the weather is damp, cloudy, cool;
• a large amount of lime in the ground. It is used to reduce soil acidity, so the main thing is to know moderation in everything;
• temperature changes. In some regions, even in summer, cool nights and dew may occur. It is necessary to close the windows at night if the difference between day and night temperatures is significant;
• dense bushes. Tomatoes should not be planted very close; a pattern should be followed to prevent moisture accumulation at the roots. For the same purpose, stepsoning should be carried out in time and excess shoots should be cut off;
• weak bushes. It is necessary to fertilize on time so that the bushes receive the full range of microelements. This improves the tomato's immunity.

Late blight on tomato leaves

Phytophthora spores persist on tops, soil, and seeds. They can also spread through the air between bushes.

Attention! In dry, hot weather, the spores die within 2 hours. If you lower the humidity in the greenhouse and increase the temperature, you can get rid of the fungus without the use of additional drugs.

Greenhouse processing of tomatoes

Before planting, the seeds are treated with a manganese solution: this will disinfect the tomato seeds and reduce the risk of disease.

At the time of flowering, spraying with the preparation “Abiga Peak” is carried out to protect the bush from pests and speed up the process of flower formation.

During the period of fruit formation, preference is given to substances such as Fitosporin or Confidor. These drugs protect the plant from bacteriosis and late blight.

To make the fruits juicier and tastier, the soil and bushes are treated with Oxyx. This substance is also considered an assistant in the fight against aphids.

How to properly process

For prevention, it is worth spraying tomatoes with chemicals or solutions prepared according to folk recipes. Bushes should not be processed during rain or on a hot day, when the sun is especially active. It is better to choose evening hours on a non-rainy day.

Usually 3-4 times per season is enough to prevent the disease. If the summer is full of precipitation, prevention is carried out more often.

Spraying tomatoes in a greenhouse

The following spraying scheme is recommended:

1. When the plant has taken root, before the first ovary. The first ten days of July are suitable, when the disease usually begins to manifest itself. But this depends on the humidity conditions in the greenhouse.
2. After 7-14-21 days, depending on the chosen method.
3. When the fruits ripen. It is impossible to treat with chemicals during this period so that the substance does not remain in the fruit.

Attention! It is recommended to alternate different treatment options every year to prevent the fungus from adapting. This will also help identify which is more effective for specific conditions.

Boric acid for tomato ovary

Periodic treatment of tomatoes with boric acid for the ovary is a necessary operation. It is better to spray in a timely manner; this element is involved in many processes and if there is a shortage of it, the plant will not produce a normal harvest. Boron starvation on tomatoes can be determined even by external signs:

1. Curling of foliage at the edges.
2. The bushes turn yellow from the base with a green top.
3. Yellowing of veins on leaves.
4. Falling of leaves at the flowering stage.
5. Shedding of a healthy ovary.
6. Blackening of stems.
7. Stems become abnormally brittle.
8. Blackening of fruits and formation of brown spots.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=xGrZghRMdy4%2520%250D

What does boric acid do for tomatoes?

Summer residents practice the use of boric acid for starting tomatoes everywhere, because this drug is affordable and does not have toxic properties in the correct proportion. The best way to introduce this microelement in the summer season is foliar feeding. Here are the main advantages that come from spraying vegetative organs with boric acid:

1. Enhances the activation of flowering processes.
2. The number of buds increases significantly.
3. Improvement in general condition.
4. Increasing the immunity of tomatoes.
5. Reduction of putrefactive processes.
6. The ovary crumbles less.
7. Improved taste.
8. After spraying, the plants better absorb the necessary substances.
9. Acceleration of fruit ripening.

When to spray tomatoes with boric acid?

It is advisable to know at what stage of development tomatoes most need fertilizing with boron. If you accurately guess the time and spray in the right proportion, then this operation will greatly help the ovary, reducing the percentage of shedding of valuable buds. It is better to draw up a treatment plan and decide in advance on the timing, taking into account the varietal characteristics of your bushes.

1. The first spraying is the stage of bud formation.
2. In case of mass flowering of a tomato, we spray it again with boric acid for ovary.
3. The final spraying is the beginning of fruiting.

Boric acid for tomato ovary - recipe

More often, gardeners dilute pure boric acid to start tomatoes in a ratio of approximately 1 g/1 l, which allows them to cope well with the shedding of buds. Many summer residents are interested in an integrated approach, the ability to solve several problems at once using a tank mixture. Spraying tomatoes with safe boric acid for ovaries can be successfully combined with fertilizing and protective treatments against infections. To solve these issues, you need to learn how to prepare an effective tank mixture.

Recipe for a complex preparation for tomatoes with boric acid:

1. Take 1.5 g of boric acid.
2. Approximately 60 drops of iodine.
3. About a tablespoon of urea.
4. 250 g milk.
5. First, dissolve the acid separately in a glass of hot (up to 60ºC) water.
6. Potassium permanganate must be gradually added to the same glass so that the resulting liquid acquires a dark pink color.
7. Pour milk and the solution previously prepared in a glass into a 1 liter jar.
8. Next we add iodine to the composition.
9. At the end, add a spoonful of urea.
10. The last stage is to pour the resulting concentrate into a sprayer, and dilute the total volume with clean water to 10 liters.

How to treat tomatoes with boric acid for ovary?

In order for boric acid to be extremely beneficial for tomato ovaries, you need to know some nuances. Let us describe the basic rules when using this valuable drug:

1. The cooking liquid should be taken at a temperature of 55-60ºC.
2. Crystals in cold liquid take an extremely long time to dissolve and cause burns if they get on the foliage.
3. Safe concentration – 0.5 teaspoon/10 l.
4. For good dissolution, it is first better to pour the crystals into a glass and shake until ready.
5. Spray tomatoes with boron in calm weather, choose quiet days when no precipitation is expected.
6. Try to apply the drug to all green parts, including flowers and fruit ovaries.

Boric acid for tomato diseases

In unfavorable seasons, the use of boric acid for tomatoes cannot be considered as a panacea for late blight or other infections, but this microelement significantly improves the general condition of the plant. It has been noticed that bushes sprayed with this substance suffer relatively less. In the absence of fungicides, you can try to save the infected plantings, but by increasing the dose of boron to 1 teaspoon/10 liters. At the time of ripening, this substance shows the best effect in tank mixtures with other safe elements, for example, iodine or manganese.

The best varieties of tomatoes for the greenhouse, resistant to late blight

There are no varieties and hybrids of tomatoes that are absolutely not susceptible to the disease. But every year more and more varieties appear that are more resistant to late blight than others. For example:

1. Oak is a determinate variety with a compact bush. Characterized by early ripening (85-100 days). Unpretentious and frost-resistant. The fruits are small, weighing up to 100 g, collected in a cluster, and have a good taste. Tomatoes are particularly resistant to late blight.
2. Orange miracle is an early ripening determinate variety of tomatoes. Ripening period is up to 100 days. The fruits are large (up to 150 g), pear-shaped, orange in color, a high-yielding variety. Due to their high beta-carotene content, they are very useful. The taste is excellent, the sweetish fruits are suitable for fresh consumption.
3. Lark is a hybrid variety of determinate species, bush height up to 90 cm. Ultra-early ripening (80 days after germination), fruits 100-120 g. Excellent, sweetish taste, bright red color, used for salads and canning. The hybrid is able to set fruit even in unfavorable conditions.
4. De Barao is an indeterminate variety. Despite the late ripening of tomatoes (115-120 days), it has strong immunity against late blight. Plants are tall - up to 2 meters; formation and pinching of tomatoes is required. The fruits are plum-shaped, there are varieties with red, yellow, black fruits, weighing 70-90 g, universal use.
5. Cardinal is a mid-season indeterminate variety, up to 2 m high. Ripening time is 110-115 days. Large fruits weighing 400-900 g; up to 10 tomatoes can form on one cluster. The variety is high-yielding, cold-resistant, the fruits are fleshy and have an excellent taste. They are distinguished by high keeping quality and do not crack.
6. Gardeners note that late blight is a serious disease that can destroy most of the crop, so it is easier to prevent than to treat.

Carrying out preventive measures and alternating different methods of combating the disease will help preserve the plants and get an excellent harvest of tomatoes.

Sources:

https://propomidory.ru/vyrashhivanie/v-teplice/kak-zashhitit-pomidory-ot-fitoftory.html https://agronom.expert/posadka/ogorod/paslenovye/tomat/borotsya-s-fitoftoroj-narodnymi-metodami .html https://udachnayadacha.ru/ogorod/ovoschi/tomaty/fitoftora-u-tomatov-v-teplitse.html