How and when to water grapes: features of watering, watering methods, is it possible to water while the berries are ripening


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Yakov Pavlovich

Professor, Head of the Department of Vegetable Growing

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Grapes are a crop that can tolerate dry periods thanks to its deep, powerful root system. But in the absence of sufficient moisture, it grows and develops more slowly, and fruiting may deteriorate. In practice, winegrowers have proven that with properly organized watering of grapes, the yield is 2-3 times higher than when grown without adding moisture.

The importance of water for plants


Water is an important component that participates in all intracellular processes of plants. All nutrients enter the tissues in dissolved form. Micro- and macroelements are not absorbed by roots from dry soil. Water is involved in the movement of nutrients, as well as evaporation, removing excess heat from the leaves. The intensity of this mechanism depends on humidity. In dry weather, water evaporates faster from plant tissue. With a lack of moisture, the internal temperature rises above optimal levels. As a result, the grapes experience “heat stress.”

On a note! During drought, bushes should be watered more abundantly. Otherwise, fewer clusters will be formed, and the quality of the fruit will be worse.

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In my opinion, the truth is, as always, in the middle. In summer cottages it is possible to water, so it is better to water. If you have huge vineyards and there is simply no physical way to water them, then you probably don’t have to water them, just adjust your agricultural practices to accommodate the lack of watering. Grapes do not like extremes - a swamp is bad, dried soil is also bad.

Without moisture, photosynthesis simply cannot proceed successfully, let's look at this issue in a little more detail. The process of photosynthesis is a process in which sunlight, carbon dioxide and WATER produce glucose or starches, which are nutrients, one might say building materials for plant tissues. It turns out that if there is no water, there will be no high-quality photosynthesis, and there will be no nutrients. The second point is that the soil contains macro- and microelements, which the root system absorbs dissolved in water, again: no water - no nutrition. Conclusion: if it is possible to water, then it is better to water.

When to water grape bushes


Watering grapes is important at all stages of their development. The frequency and frequency of soil moisture depends on various factors: the growing region, the number of rainy days, soil composition, plant variety and age, groundwater level, and irrigation method. In areas where there is frequent heavy rain, the grape bushes are not watered at all. In the south and central Russia, plants need to ensure timely moistening of the soil near the trunk.

Watering grapes in spring


At the beginning of the growing season, roots, shoots and foliage grow quickly. After opening, while the buds have not yet swelled, the grape bushes must be well watered. After a winter with little snow, the soil should be recharged with moisture. In dry spring weather, grapes must be watered in April. The time for plants to awaken depends on the temperature of the irrigation water: warm liquid accelerates bud break, and cold liquid slows it down. This feature must be taken into account if return frosts are expected.

Most of all, grape bushes need moisture during the period of appearance of young leaves and active growth of the vine. Plants need to be watered approximately 20 days before flowers appear. On average, in spring the soil is moistened 3 times. It is not recommended to water flowering grapes. Otherwise, some of the inflorescences will fall off and there will be fewer clusters.

Advice!

It is better to moisten the soil abundantly 2-3 times than to carry out frequent and meager watering.

Watering grapes in summer

Lack of precipitation and heat are common phenomena accompanying summer weather. When the berries begin to fill, the need for moisture increases. The grapes should receive 1/2 of the seasonal water requirement. With the arrival of summer, it is watered when berries the size of a pea are formed, and the next time - in the last days of July.

It is believed that moistening the soil around the grapes in August only harms the future harvest. The soil continues to be moistened until the fruit softens and the characteristic varietal color of the skin appears. Watering grapes in the summer while the berries are ripening often leads to cracking of the skin and the development of gray rot. Late varieties are also watered in August, because their berries ripen in September or October.

Autumn watering

Is it possible to water grapes in the fall? To prepare the plants for the upcoming frosts, in the fall it is necessary to moisten the tree trunk area well. In winter, dry soil cracks and the roots freeze. If it rains frequently in the fall, the vineyard is not watered. In the southern regions, where bushes are not covered for the winter, the ground is well moistened after the leaves fall. In areas with cold climates, grapes are watered after covering. Approximate time: end of October or early November. Late-ripening varieties, the fruits of which are intended for long-term storage, stop watering a month before harvesting.

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The classification of fruit crops in relation to moisture deficiency classifies grapes as drought-resistant crops. In the conditions of the south of Ukraine (and this is the main viticulture region in the country), it will not be possible to achieve high yields without irrigation due to the tendency to cold snowless winters, recurrent frosts, and dry hot summers.

The ratio of water consumption by grapes during different periods of the growing season:

  • Increase in vegetative mass after spring awakening (shoot growth) - 20%;
  • Flowering - 5%;
  • Growth and development of fruits, filling of berries - 50%;
  • Strengthening and ripening of the vine - 20%.

According to the given data, a schedule of irrigation and drainage measures is established.

How to water seedlings

In order for the seedlings to take root well after planting, the soil should always remain moist. The liquid is poured into a circular hole, which is dug at a distance of 30 cm from the stem. Its depth should be 25 cm and width - 60 cm. Watering grape cuttings after planting is carried out at least once every 7-10 days, avoiding waterlogging. When the water in the hole is absorbed, it is sprinkled with dry soil. With circular watering, the soil is moistened uniformly and the roots grow evenly.

For each seedling, 10-15 liters of water are consumed, which is poured within the boundaries of the hole. If the bushes grow poorly, drugs are used to stimulate root formation: Heteroauxin, Ribav-extra or Kornevin. In mid-summer, rooted cuttings need to be watered approximately 2-3 times every 30 days. The frequency of the procedure depends on the size of the young bush and climate. In hot weather, the water intake is increased. So that the vine has time to ripen before the arrival of winter, young plants are watered abundantly for the last time in August.

Important!

Water for watering seedlings should be warm. It is recommended to add complex fertilizer to it.

What kind of water should I use?

This is a common question, but in my opinion it is very individual. If you have several bushes and you can water them with heated water, then, of course, water them like this. If you have a lot of bushes and do not have a tank, barrel, or all the warm water is spent on tomatoes and cucumbers, then what kind of water to water - water directly from the water supply, well or well. In summer, the soil is well warmed up, surface watering with ice water will not be stressful, until the water is absorbed into the soil and reaches the roots, it will already warm up a little. I personally water from a well; I simply don’t have the opportunity to pre-heat water in a tank for the entire vineyard; everything grows the same way as when watered from a tank; at the initial stage I had just such an experience.

The value of vegetative irrigation


During the summer drought, vegetation irrigation is carried out. Their main task is to retain moisture in the soil, which promotes the normal development of the bush and its cooling. To understand the advantages of summer watering, you should know the stages of fruit formation.

Grape buds bloom at a temperature of +12°C. When the thermometer reaches +25°C, shoots begin to grow rapidly, and a little later flowers appear on the vine. The optimal temperature for harvest ripening is +30°C. Summer watering at the root improves the absorption of nutrients. Without sufficient moisture, the berries will be significantly smaller. When the temperature begins to drop to +15°C, the grapes will already look ripe. The formation of sugar in the berries stops.

In areas where summer temperatures can reach +40°C, care must be taken to ensure a regular supply of water to the grape bushes. In areas with a temperate climate, grapes do not need frequent and abundant moisture of the soil. Plants should be watered as needed when the soil dries out. If the drought is not severe, the grapes can easily cope with the distribution of liquid. Stem nutrition also includes consumption of leaves. Therefore, in order for the fruits to grow large and sweet, there is no need to save water, because... In hot weather, excess moisture quickly evaporates.

What are the benefits of summer watering?

Summer watering of grapes is necessary to maintain their vital activity.

In summer, with consistently high temperatures (above 40 °C), air humidity tends to decrease. As a result, the plant overheats. If, against the background of such changes, the vine receives moisture, then evaporation will accelerate and oxygen and nutrient exchange within the cells will be normalized. This type of watering is called vegetative watering. Therefore, summer watering helps to cool the grapes, which prevents burns, early leaf fall and damage to the crop. This way, moisture will be retained in the soil, supporting the vital processes of plant development.

Things are different in regions with a temperate climate. Then the vineyard does not really need additional moisture. But this does not mean a complete abandonment of artificial irrigation.

For grapes, both moisture deficiency and excess are bad. In the first case, the development of the vine is inhibited, it withers and droops, and the berries become smaller. The first sign of a lack of moisture is excessive growth of the vine in width and height. Then garden crops growing in the neighborhood may suffer. In the second scenario, the roots begin to rot, which leads to the death of the crop. In addition, excess water washes out useful elements from the soil that are required for the full development of the vine.

Watering methods


Gardeners use 2 methods of watering grapes: surface and underground. When moistening the soil using the first method, water is poured into grooves 20 cm deep, made between the rows. They are placed at a distance of 60 cm from the bush. The surface method is ineffective for adult bushes, because their roots reach a depth of more than 0.5 m. This technology is acceptable for seedlings.

The most successful option for surface irrigation is drip irrigation. With this method, the effect of gradual soil moistening is achieved. A special tape is laid out between the bushes at a distance of 25 cm. Through it, the required volume of water flows to the grapes, improving fruiting.

On a note!

It is not recommended to irrigate grapes using sprayers, because... they increase the humidity around the bushes and provoke the development of fungal diseases.

The best result of soil moistening is achieved by underground irrigation. The drainage method is popular among gardeners. It is organized by digging metal pipes 0.5 m deep near the bushes. Their diameter is 10-15 cm. A part of the pipe 15 cm long should remain on the surface. 14-16 holes with a diameter of 10-12 mm are drilled in its lower section. A drainage layer of small stones or broken bricks is placed under each pipe. Keep the top hole closed to prevent debris from entering.

The underground method of irrigation has its advantages:

  1. To deeply moisten the soil, much less water is required, because it goes directly to the roots.
  2. The frost resistance of grapes increases. Plants actively grow deep roots, which are less likely to be damaged by winter frosts, unlike superficial roots.
  3. The deep layers of soil are saturated with water, and the surface around the plant remains dry, which reduces the risk of developing a fungal infection.

How to feed grapes

Rotted manure is considered the best organic substance for feeding grapes. It must be added at the rate of up to 20 kilograms, 200-250 g of microelements (urea, superphosphate, potassium chloride) and 300 g of ash. The soil is dug up shallowly (about 7 cm) and then watered with 30 liters of warm barrel water. To get rid of the crust that has formed on the surface and improve soil aeration after watering the next day, the surface soil layer requires loosening. Then watering is repeated in mid-June: it is at this moment that flowering occurs and grapes begin to set. Already at the end of July, fertilizing (without the use of urea) is repeated simultaneously with watering, but with the addition of organic matter reduced by 3 times. To ensure the best results from fertilizing, make small holes or holes around the bush.

Features of watering


Grapes are a crop that easily adapts to heat. In the summer in the middle zone, the normal amount of precipitation is sufficient for filling grapes. But when cultivating cultivated varieties, additional moisture is indispensable. Proper watering helps to achieve maximum productivity of bushes and reveal varietal qualities.

When caring for grapes, you need to take into account the following watering features:

  1. It is better to add too little water than to over-wet the soil. Excess moisture stimulates the growth of surface roots, which freeze out in severe frosts.
  2. If there is a long interval between waterings, the soil dries out. Due to lack of moisture, the berries may crack.
  3. Increased growth of stems is a reason to reduce the volume of liquid. And if the bushes grow slowly, you need to water and feed them with nitrogen fertilizers.
  4. In the absence of precipitation for a long time, grapes need generous soil moisture. When the fruits begin to soften and acquire a characteristic color, the bushes are watered more often, increasing the water rate.
  5. If soil heated by the scorching summer sun is watered with cold water, the plants will experience heat shock. The reason for this effect is the temperature difference. Therefore, it is permissible to water from a well only in the predawn or evening. The second type of mistake is irrigating bushes with warm water under strong pressure.
  6. Rainwater can be used to moisten the soil. It is collected in 200 liter barrels.
  7. Moistened soil should be loosened to improve air permeability. This measure prevents root rot and rapid evaporation of moisture. The earth is loosened when the water is absorbed and the soil dries out a little.

On a note!

When using buckets, a new portion can be poured when the water from the hole has completely seeped into the ground.

Subtleties encountered during planting watering

If you decide to plant in the spring, you will need to pour 1-2 buckets of warm water into the planting hole to warm the soil.

When the seedling is firmly established in the soil, that is, the hole is filled approximately halfway, you should saturate the soil with an additional amount of water, amounting to approximately 1-2 buckets. It is advisable to infuse the water in the sun rather than heat it yourself.

To increase the positive effect, it is advisable to regularly loosen the soil in the place where the grapes grow. Watering and fertilizing are very important. The products “Master”, “Viva”, “Kemira” are especially valued. They have an excellent effect on the growth and development of the plant.

Watering and fertilizing


In order for grape seedlings to begin bearing fruit earlier and produce a good harvest, you need to properly combine watering and fertilizing. In spring, the bush is fertilized with mineral mixtures enriched with phosphorus, nitrogen and zinc. To obtain the best effect, they are combined with organic matter: chicken droppings, compost, rotted manure.

In the summer, after watering, apply fertilizer that does not contain nitrogen. The last time the grapes are fed is 14 days before harvesting the ripe bunches. Timely soil moisture and regular fertilizing increase grape resistance to various diseases. And the berries turn out juicy and sweet.

Watering by seasons

In the previous block we have already looked at the basic principles of watering; if the seasons are more convenient for you, then let’s look at it from this perspective as well.

Spring

If, after opening the grapes and placing them on the trellis, it is dry, then we water them abundantly.

Summer

We water a week before flowering, then 2 times with an interval of 2 weeks, when the berries are in pea state. After August 1st we do not water.

Autumn

We do not water. The main task is to get a sweet harvest and help the vine ripen. If it is very dry, hot and you see that the bushes are wilting, water lightly, but the volume should not be large.

How often to water grapes


The timing of irrigation and the volume of liquid are influenced by various factors: climatic features, soil composition, weather conditions, variety, method of soil moistening, plant age and number of ovaries. In arid climate zones, bushes are watered more often. If grapes are grown on sandy soils, the interval between moistenings is shorter and the portions of water are smaller. Grapes growing on clay soils or black soil require rare but abundant watering. Adult plants and late varieties need more frequent moistening in summer compared to young plantings.

Watering of grapes is carried out during the following growing seasons:

  • after fixing the plants to the support;
  • after spring pruning, if the weather is dry;
  • when young shoots reach a length of 35 cm;
  • during the appearance of buds;
  • in summer, when berries the size of a pea are formed;
  • until the fruits soften;
  • in the fall, during preparation for winter.

Using the underground method, the soil is moistened at least once every 14-20 days, if there is no heavy rainfall. With the surface method, you need to take into account weather conditions and monitor the condition of the plants. Moisture deficiency can be recognized by poor shoot growth, loose bunches, and small berries. Excessive watering causes waterlogging, which is manifested by the following symptoms:

  • increased growth of stems and shoots;
  • delay in berry formation;
  • wateriness and low sugar content of the pulp;
  • uncharacteristic color in dark varieties;
  • poor ripening of the vines.

Advice!

A soil test will help determine whether the grapes need to be watered. A handful of earth is clamped in a fist. If the lump does not disintegrate when you open the brush, then the soil is sufficiently moist.

Seasonal recharge scheme

In order to support the fruit bush with nutrients in a timely manner, a novice winegrower needs to know the optimal timing to feed the plant (feeding calendar). Basically, they are done according to seasons or phases of development.

Spring support for grapes

Spring feeding is carried out in the spring, before the buds begin to open, as follows:

  • carried out from the moment when the air temperature warms up to +16C;
  • During this period, a certain dose of mineral fertilizers and organic matter is added. Suitable minerals include the well-known ammonium nitrate, effective superphosphate, potassium salt, and natural organic matter;
  • this feeding is necessary to stimulate the color of the fruit bush. Root feeding is done with slurry in combination with a mineral complex;
  • Before the first fertilizing, it is necessary to loosen the soil, form a protective roller so that the poured compounds do not go beyond the designated limits of the root circle.

The procedure helps reduce the fall of flowers and ovaries.

Summer recharge

In summer you need to fertilize after the grape bush has flowered. Refill kit for this

The procedure is the same as in the spring. This is necessary to maintain active growth and development of the bush. During the intensive growing season, a grape bush requires additional support.

The process of applying foliar fertilizers can be completed after the grape bush has finished flowering in August. This feeding is aimed at activating flowering.

It is for this reason that a little boric acid is added to complex minerals and natural organic matter. Soluble bird droppings or mullein are suitable as an organic base.

Applying important fertilizers before flowering

Before the vine blooms, when the branches of the brush begin to form, the vine wastes a significant amount of life-giving energy.

Fertilizing is necessary to stimulate flowering and ovary formation.

Before applying fertilizer, mineral compounds are diluted with water. Do not forget to loosen the soil while adding organic matter.

Support after flowering bush

Support for the vine after flowering is needed during the period of berry formation. In this phase, phosphorus-potassium compounds are required, without the addition of nitrogen.

To water the bush, dilute 50 g of potassium and phosphorus in 15 liters of settled water. We spray the resulting mixture and water the bush. The purpose of this procedure is to activate the growth of green shoots and improve the process of setting berries.

Fertilizers during berry formation

Fertilizing at the pea stage is carried out for good formation of fruit ovaries. The active component of the procedure is nitrogen, it affects the weight and yield indicators.

To support the grape bush during this period, the following composition is prepared:

  • 10 liters of water;
  • 10 g potassium magnesia;
  • 20 g ammonium nitrate.

Fertilizing is carried out 15 days before the immediate formation of fruit ovaries. It is aimed at increasing fruit weight and vegetative mass.

Autumn support for the bush is the key to strong immunity

Fertilizing in the fall is done after harvesting ripe grapes.

To increase the bush’s resistance to severe frosts and dangerous diseases, the last fertilizing is carried out in the following sequence and with a certain composition:

  • In order for natural nutrition to give excellent results in the harsh winter in the form of strong immunity of the grapevine, all the necessary elements are introduced into trenches dug in the grape tree trunk.
  • After pruning, winegrowers add rotted organic matter in the form of bird droppings or mullein.
  • In autumn, the procedure is carried out once every 2 years if the vine is on fertile soil.
  • Before sheltering for the winter, the vine needs natural phosphorus and potassium.
  • To strengthen the bush’s immunity, you will need natural sulfur, manganese, boron, and zinc.

Pruning the vine is the first step in preparing for the harsh winter season. October and November are ideal months for formative pruning. The signal for the beginning of manipulation is the fall of colored foliage. After it sheds, you should wait for 2 weeks, then proceed to circumcision.

It is important to comply with all these deadlines so as not to harm the bush.

How much water do grapes need?

Each plant must be provided with such an amount of liquid that the soil is moistened to a depth of 0.5-1 m. The water norm is 60-90 liters per 1 m2. Sandy soil will require 1.5 times more liquid. Half the norm is poured under grapes up to 3 years old, and 2/3 of the required volume of water under bushes up to 8 years old. After a winter with little snow, about 250 liters are taken per bush for spring moisture. During prolonged dry weather, use the same volume of water. The need for moisture increases during berry ripening. For each growing season, 50-70 liters of water are consumed per 1 m2.

Preparing for landing

The proposed landing site must first be dug up

When digging, it is also important to remove weed roots from the ground. After the procedure, the soil is loosened with an appropriate tool.

It is necessary to prepare the entire proposed area where the flowers will grow. Ground cover roses grow quite quickly, so very soon the entire area will be overgrown with bushes.

To plant the root, you need to dig a hole half a meter deep and wide. The distance between bushes should be from thirty centimeters to a meter. There is no need to worry if the existing root of the bush is small and frail; very soon it will grow and will be able to show all its strength.

How beautiful the ground cover roses are in the photo! The name of the varieties of these beauties interests many. Here are the most popular:

  1. Hello. Large double cherry blossom flowers. The height of the bush is about 50 cm.
  2. Akhtiar. Large double flowers. Bush height up to 1.5 m.
  3. Fairy. Pinkish inflorescences. The height of the bush is about 60 cm.
  4. Scarlet. Double bright red flowers. The bush is low, up to half a meter.
  5. Matador. Scarlet semi-double flowers. Bush height - up to 50 cm.
  6. Swaney. Terry white roses. Bushes are about 80 cm in length. This is a winter-hardy variety of ground cover rose.

The photos in the article show how beautiful this plant is when it blooms.

Consequences of moisture deficiency and excess

With poor moisture, grapes grow many superficial roots to the detriment of the main one. Due to irregular soil moisture, the roots periodically dry out and grow back. You should not expect a good harvest from grapes that are constantly under stress. In the summer heat, overdried soil cracks, roots tear, and plants dry out.

Excess moisture causes the following consequences:

  • nutrients are washed away;
  • fungal diseases occur;
  • roots rot;
  • the berries crack and become sour;
  • ripe fruits do not tolerate transportation and storage well.

If watering is not done on time, the berries take on the appearance of wrinkled balls and stop developing. They are limp and tasteless. When there is a lack of moisture, the vine loses some of its leaves, and the remaining ones become withered. During drought, in the absence of watering, spreading of the vine and roots is observed, which affects other garden plants.

Reviews

Gardeners and summer residents who properly organized the watering of grapes are satisfied with the results. They note good shoot growth, an abundance of bunches, and improved fruit quality. If grapes are watered regularly in the summer, they can withstand the heat more easily. With deep moisture, a significant increase in yield is observed. Experienced winegrowers choose the underground method for watering their plants, because... consider it the most effective.

Proper watering is the main condition for caring for grapes. It is important to adhere to the norms and optimal timing of watering. When choosing a moistening method, you should take into account climatic conditions, soil composition and planting area. During drought, grapes should be watered regularly. If the soil is moistened in a timely manner, especially in summer, the plants will delight with an abundance of delicious berries.

Choosing a grape variety for growing in the Urals

The success of planting and growing grapes in the Urals depends not only on proper agricultural technology, but also on the choice of variety. Only zoned, winter-hardy varieties should be selected. You need to firmly understand the difference between frost resistance and winter hardiness. Unfortunately, even manufacturers of planting material sometimes take liberties in using these terms. Frost resistance of a variety is its ability to withstand short-term frosts without damage. Winter hardiness is the ability to survive until spring without loss even with significant winter temperature drops. The higher the winter hardiness of grape varieties, the further north they can be grown.

According to the ripening period for the Urals, it is necessary to choose early grape varieties (90-110 days) and mid-early ones (115-130 days).

The following varieties have proven themselves to be the best in the Ural climatic conditions:

  1. In memory of Dombrovskaya - early (90-100 days). Clusters up to 400 g, black berries, seedless.
  2. In memory of Shatilov - early (100 days), very winter-hardy. The berries are light.
  3. Early pink nutmeg – 110 days, pink, fragrant berries. Bunch up to 700 g.
  4. Samokhvalovich - early (110 days). Bunch up to 200 g, dense. The berries are aromatic, pinkish-green.
  5. Olga or Beauty of the North – early (110 days). A bunch of up to 600 g, the berries are amber-yellow.
  6. Aleshenkin or Alyosha - medium early (115 days). Bunch up to 700 g, berries are light, amber.
  7. Negro baby – medium early (125 days). A bunch of up to 600 g, the berries are brown and tasty.
  8. Lydia – medium early (125 days). A bunch of up to 200 g, the berries are yellow-pink, aromatic.
  9. White Muscat Shatilova – mid-early (130 days). The clusters grow up to 1 kg, the berries are light yellow and aromatic. A very productive variety.

Experienced winegrowers in the Ural region advise starting with the varieties “Pamyati Shatilov”, “Pamyati Dombrovskaya”, “Aleshenkin”. These varieties are the most unpretentious, easy to care for and winter-hardy.

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