Strawberries: growing all year round and features of preparation for winter

Strawberries are considered a seasonal product, because they are harvested in open ground only in the summer. However, with some effort, you can grow this tasty and extremely healthy berry in winter. In this article we will look at what features should be taken into account when growing strawberries in winter, and how to prepare for such a business.

First of all, we will dwell in more detail on the selection of a suitable variety of strawberries, and will also pay attention to the arrangement of a greenhouse for the cultivation of this plant.

Growing strawberries in winter

Almost every summer resident who has a small greenhouse or greenhouse dreams of strawberry bushes bearing fruit all year round. Indeed, with some effort, any structure of closed ground will be able to provide you with a harvest.

It should be immediately warned that cultivating such a heat-loving plant in the cold season is associated with certain difficulties. But, if you choose the right strawberry variety and carefully prepare the greenhouse for growing it, difficulties will be minimized. When arranging the structure, the natural needs of the crop for nutrients, heat and moisture should be taken into account, so in closed ground you will need to try to reproduce natural conditions as much as possible.

Growing seedlings

Young strawberry bushes can be obtained from seeds or tendrils of an adult plant.

Sowing seeds

Seeds are sown in containers filled with a mixture of soil and sand. The crops are covered with polyethylene and placed in a warm environment. It is important to maintain soil moisture. Within three weeks, the first shoots will appear.

After the formation of the first pair of true leaves, strawberry seedlings are fed with organic matter. And when the seedlings grow a little and become stronger, you can plant them into individual containers. To do this you need:

• water the seedlings generously with warm water;
• carefully remove the bushes from the soil, trying not to damage the roots;
• place the seedlings in a new container, after making a hole in the ground;
• dig in the bushes, leaving small mounds at the base.

The process is completed by carefully watering the plants with warm water.

Selection of varieties for growing in winter

One of the key points in growing strawberries in winter is choosing the right variety. First of all, you should pay attention to the method of plant pollination, since there are no natural pollinating insects in the greenhouse. In addition, you need to choose a suitable variety based on yield volumes, disease resistance and basic planting requirements.

Figure 1. The best varieties for winter cultivation: 1 – Maria, 2 – Marmolada, 3 – Tristar, 4 – Sonata

When buying strawberries, be sure to ask what requirements this species makes for care, in particular, temperature and lighting, since the internal equipment of the greenhouse will depend on this.

Note: There are quite a lot of hybrid varieties on the modern market, which, although they are characterized by high yields, require special growing conditions. If you are not ready to spend extra money on installing a separate ventilation or lighting system, it is better to avoid such hybrids.

Among the best varieties intended for growing in a greenhouse in winter are species such as Maria, Marmolada, Tristar, Sonata, Mount Everest and others (Figure 1). All of them are distinguished by extremely high yields and the ability to re-form ovaries after the fruiting period has ended.

Pollination

This is a necessary procedure if strawberries that are not capable of self-pollination are planted in a greenhouse. The easiest option would be to open the structure for insects to access. But if it does not come off, then you can use one of the methods of artificial pollination of strawberries in a greenhouse.

1. Installing a hive is used quite rarely.
2. Organization of artificial wind - fans are placed in the greenhouse, the blades of which are directed in different directions. The procedure is carried out once a week for 2-3 hours. The effectiveness of the method can reach 90%.
3. Organization of artificial rainfall - powerful sprayers are installed in the greenhouse to water the strawberry plantings. But this method does not give a guaranteed result.

Strawberries can also be pollinated by hand. To do this, you need to take a brush and brush over each flower. To achieve optimal results, the procedure is repeated several times a week.

Growing strawberries in winter in a greenhouse

From a technical point of view, winter growing strawberries in a greenhouse is considered difficult. Even if you have selected a suitable variety and studied in practice the features of cultivating a berry crop in open ground, this does not mean that growing it indoors will be successful.

Figure 2. Methods of growing in greenhouse structures

In fact, the whole idea of ​​growing berries in the cold season comes down to the proper arrangement of the greenhouse. Strawberries are a heat-loving crop, which for successful fruiting requires not only a certain ambient temperature, but also an optimal level of humidity and high-quality lighting. Accordingly, you will have to equip the greenhouse with a ventilation and irrigation system, heating and lighting devices (Figure 2). To ensure that the preparation of the closed ground structure is successful, we will provide more detailed information on preparing the greenhouse for winter growing strawberries.

Setting up a greenhouse

If the greenhouse has been properly prepared for the cultivation of strawberries, the crop yield will be at a high level throughout the year. It should be borne in mind that the building itself must be reliable and solid, so light shelters and greenhouses are not suitable for this purpose.

Note: The most successful greenhouse is considered to be made of polycarbonate, which not only maintains the internal temperature well, but also transmits light well, and also effectively resists aggressive environmental factors.

In fact, you can use a greenhouse made of another material - glass or film, but you will definitely have to install equipment for heating, lighting and maintaining an optimal humidity level. Next, we will look at the main nuances of preparing such a closed ground structure.

Preparing soil and strawberries for planting

When preparing to grow strawberries in winter, you first need to properly prepare the soil. Since the humid microclimate of the greenhouse is favorable for the development of pathogenic microorganisms, before planting seedlings it is necessary to disinfect the soil with a one percent warm solution of ordinary potassium permanganate. You also need to fertilize the soil: add organic matter (peat, humus or rotted manure) to it at the rate of 4-5 kg ​​per square meter of area, and add mineral fertilizers: potassium sulfate and superphosphate at 25 and 80 grams per square meter, respectively.

Note: In the process of directly planting seedlings in the soil, a special complex mineral fertilizer for strawberries is additionally added to the soil.

When the soil is ready, you can start preparing the planting material. It should be immediately clarified that it is necessary to grow strawberry seedlings for the greenhouse in advance, since the best results will be achieved when cultivating two-year-old plants.

When selecting and planting strawberry seedlings, the following nuances should be taken into account:

1. It is better to choose self-pollinating remontant varieties of the so-called “short daylight hours”. Their advantage is that they do not need insects to form ovaries, and the crop can be harvested several times a year, and the formation of fruits does not depend on the length of daylight hours. These varieties include Pineapple, Temptation, Korona, Elizaveta and Sakhalin strawberries.
2. If you were unable to grow full-fledged seedlings in time, it is better to buy them in specialized nurseries. This way you will be sure that the planting material fully complies with the characteristics of a certain variety and is of high quality.
3. Planting strawberries in a greenhouse is carried out in the same way as in open ground. In this case, in the first year it is necessary to remove all the whiskers when harvesting the berries. This will help speed up the process of acclimatization of plants in a new place.
4. It is possible to increase the planting of berry crops only from the second year. During this period from June to August, you can begin to select the strongest tendrils and root them next to the mother plants. It is important not to separate the rosette from the mother plant immediately after planting. To prevent the crop from dying, you need to wait until it is completely rooted and develops a strong root system.

If you do not have experience growing strawberries in open ground, use this advice: the bushes should be arranged in a checkerboard pattern. This means that the distance between plants in the same row should be approximately 15 cm, and between individual rows - about 25 cm. To speed up the rooting process and increase productivity, it is advisable to mulch all plantings with organic or non-woven material to increase the soil temperature.

Temperature, watering and lighting

In previous sections, we have already mentioned that maintaining optimal temperature conditions plays a key role in growing strawberries. Since seedlings are planted in a greenhouse in the summer or early autumn, the heating in the greenhouse begins to be turned on with the arrival of the first cold weather, and the temperature adjustment necessary for the start of fruiting begins only in January.

Note: If the greenhouse is cool, the strawberries will enter a period of vegetative dormancy, from which the crop can only be brought out by gradually increasing the temperature. It is important to consider that you should not sharply increase the temperature in the greenhouse, as this can negatively affect the condition of the plants.

Starting from mid-January, the indoor temperature is gradually increased to +8+12 degrees, and when solar activity becomes more intense, the temperature in the greenhouse during the day should reach +20 degrees, and at night - not lower than +8. As soon as the first flowers appear on the bushes, the temperature is further increased to +25 degrees. Without this event, the flowering of the plant will be delayed, and the ovaries and fruits will form more slowly.

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Since strawberries are considered a moisture-loving crop, special attention should be paid to watering them:

1. Moisture should be added to the soil regularly, since if there is a lack of moisture, the plants stop bearing fruit.
2. When watering, you must ensure that the liquid only gets on the ground at the roots, and in no case on the leaves or stems, as this can provoke rotting processes.
3. It is strictly forbidden to water strawberries in a greenhouse with cold water: the liquid should be moderately warm and correspond to the temperature of the soil around the bushes.

Figure 3. Methods of watering crops

It should also be borne in mind that as strawberries grow, they will need more moisture, so over time the intensity of watering will have to be increased. The optimal way to add moisture to the soil is considered to be drip irrigation, which allows you to saturate the plants with water and use resources economically (Figure 3).

Note: Strawberries are demanding not only in terms of watering, but also in terms of air humidity. For example, during planting this figure should be 80%, and during flowering - 70%.

All plants need light to fully develop, and strawberries are no exception. Only in the presence of optimal lighting will the bushes bloom profusely and form ovaries. Since the duration of daylight hours and the intensity of sunlight are low in winter, additional lighting should be provided. As a rule, fluorescent lamps are used for this purpose, which are installed above the rows of plants. On average, strawberries need 8 hours of daylight for normal development, but for an earlier start of flowering and fruit formation, it is better to extend it to 10-16 hours.

Soil preparation

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To successfully grow strawberries in a greenhouse without heating, you need to take care of the quality of the soil in advance. It must be remembered that this culture prefers loamy neutral or slightly acidic soils. Also, the soil should be loose and enriched with organic matter.

Purchasing ready-made soil mixture is expensive and impractical, so gardeners prepare it themselves.

1. They take the top layer of soil from the beds where nightshade crops grew.
2. Humus is added, the amount of which should be one third of the total amount of soil.
3. The resulting soil mixture is placed in a woven bag and steamed for four hours.
4. After the earth has cooled, complex mineral fertilizers or ash, dolomite flour and urea are added to it.

If the soil is not loose enough, you can add sawdust or river sand to achieve the desired consistency.

Important! The soil gradually loses its fertility, so strawberries need to be fed regularly and the soil must be completely changed periodically.

How to prepare strawberries in the garden for winter

If you do not yet dare to grow strawberries in a greenhouse, but prefer to pick berries in open ground, you also need certain knowledge on preparing this crop for wintering (Figure 4).

The main activities for preparing strawberries for winter are:

1. Watering and fertilizing: after the end of the fruiting period, you should feed the bushes with mineral fertilizers and carry out pre-winter watering. This will saturate the crop with the necessary nutrients to successfully withstand cold weather.
2. Pruning: at the end of August or beginning of September, old leaves are removed from all bushes so that the plant does not waste energy maintaining their viability. However, not all summer residents welcome this method. Some people believe that such radical pruning only harms the plants. If you doubt the need for pruning, you can conduct an experiment: trim one bed, leave the second unchanged, and in the spring see which plants withstood the winter better.
3. Shelter: since strawberries are heat-loving crops, it is advisable to cover them with organic or non-woven material for the winter. It is not recommended to use film for this purpose, as condensation may begin to accumulate under it, which can cause rotting of the leaves and stems.

Figure 4. Basic measures to prepare for winter

If all these measures were carried out correctly and at the optimal time, in the spring you will notice that the strawberries have fully retained their productivity and are ready for the new fruiting season.

The entire greenhouse installation process includes several stages.

• Preparing a solid foundation. To do this you need:

1. level the soil surface;
2. form holes 40x40 cm every 60 cm;
3. connect the holes with trenches at least 20 cm wide;
4. Channels are installed in the pits and concreted;
5. after the concrete solution in the pits has hardened a little, fill the trench, having previously installed the formwork.

• Installation of the frame. It can be of different shapes: rectangular, round, single or gable.
• Polycarbonate sheathing.

It’s not difficult to assemble the structure yourself, but you can also purchase a ready-made polycarbonate greenhouse, which will save time.

How to protect strawberries from frost for the winter

Proper covering of strawberries grown in open ground for the winter plays a key role in a successful harvest. This procedure is the final stage of preparing plants for winter.

Figure 5. Options for winter shelters

It is believed that the best and safest shelter for bushes is snow, so if your region has long and snowy winters, this will be enough to protect plants from frost. However, for regions with little snow in winters and low temperatures, artificial shelter is mandatory (Figure 5).

There are several ways to cover strawberries for the winter:

1. Conifer branches: Young bushes that have recently been planted in the ground should be completely covered to protect the tender shoots from frostbite. Older plants can only be mulched around them.
2. Tops, straw or leaves: These are also considered suitable and cheap cover options, however these materials have several significant disadvantages. For example, mice often live in straw, and leaves and tops become caked over several winter months and limit air circulation under the shelter. As a result, after the first thaw, strawberries may dry out. Alternatively, you can add brushwood or old raspberry stems under this mulch to improve air circulation.
3. Non-woven covering material: for example, agrofibre or spandbond can be stretched over arcs and the strawberries can be left for the winter. Under such shelter, the bushes will feel absolutely comfortable, since the non-woven material allows air to pass through, but at the same time maintains the optimal temperature inside. It is impossible to cover strawberries with non-woven material without arcs, since frozen areas will form in places where it comes into contact with the soil.

Strawberry varieties for the greenhouse

There are no continuously fruiting crops - each plant has a certain growing season. So strawberries cannot be “forced” to produce fruit all year round, without interruption. But it is quite possible to grow berries for 12 months if you use a closed type of cultivation.

Ordinary varieties are not suitable in this case - only remontants are needed, producing 2-3 harvests per season. With good agricultural technology in a greenhouse, up to 5 harvests are obtained from one bush (with frequent soil renewal).

Important! At the end of the growing season, the fertilized bushes are replaced with fresh rosettes. This ensures continuity of the crop flow.

Strawberry varieties recommended for growing in a greenhouse

It doesn’t matter which of the given varieties a summer resident chooses for himself, they all have advantages that promote cultivation in closed ground:

• adaptability to growing conditions;
• unpretentiousness to the abundance of natural light;
• long fruiting;
• disease resistance.

In order for the bushes to bear fruit, many plants will have to be pollinated artificially, or go to a nursery and purchase modern self-pollinating strawberry varieties.

How to feed strawberries for the winter

Despite the fact that in the fall the strawberries in the garden are preparing for the winter dormant period, they must be fed. This will help the plants successfully survive the cold and successfully enter the fruiting period next year.

To provide the crop with a supply of nutrients, it is necessary to add certain fertilizers to the soil. For this purpose, both organic and mineral substances can be used. For example, bird droppings or mullein should be diluted in water in a ratio of 1:10 and left for two days. Next, the resulting liquid is used for root watering, avoiding the substance getting on the leaves or stems.

Ordinary wood ash can also be used as a top dressing, and it does not need to be diluted in water: it will be enough to sprinkle it on the ground. About 150 grams of fertilizer are consumed per square meter of area. Similarly, you can fertilize with potassium and phosphorus.

Russian technology

High ridges about a meter wide are formed along the entire length of the greenhouses. They consist of layers:

• small crushed stone or expanded clay chips (6-7 cm);
• sand - about 10 cm;
• fertile soil - about 10 cm.

You also need to add ammonium nitrate and superphosphate. Strawberry bushes are placed on the beds at intervals of at least 30 cm. Planting in a row or in a checkerboard pattern is allowed. For better rooting, they practice covering the ridges with agrofiber or film material, having previously made slits for the bushes. This measure prevents the growth of weeds and retains moisture in the soil. But you need to remember that excessive moisture can damage the plants, so you should water your strawberries sparingly. If the beds are not covered, then you need to regularly weed and loosen the soil between the bushes. For watering, you should use a drip irrigation system - this will help reduce water consumption and the beds will not wash out, because the water will be supplied directly to the roots. The seedlings are watered daily for the first month, and after rooting - once a week.

During the first two months after planting, garden strawberries should receive nitrogen-containing fertilizers to increase green mass. Then they begin to add solutions of ammonium nitrate, superphosphate and potassium fertilizers. The frequency depends on the rate of soil depletion.

How and when to prune strawberries for the winter

Proper pruning has a direct impact on future fruiting. Immediately after harvesting, the leaves are removed with a sharp knife or small pruning shears. In this case, it is important to observe moderation and cut only the leaf blade itself, without affecting the stems. This pruning technology is necessary in order not to accidentally touch the growth point, which will allow new shoots to form in the spring (Figure 6).

Figure 6. Pruning before the onset of cold weather

The antennae, which must be completely cut off, must also be removed. But it is not recommended to pull out weeds by the roots. It will be enough to cut off their above-ground part and leave the roots of weeds, which will serve as a kind of organic fertilizer in the next season. After pruning, the strawberry beds are watered abundantly, fed and covered for the winter.

The process of growing strawberries in winter is considered difficult, so for more information we recommend that you watch the video on this topic.

The strawberry harvest depends not only on proper care during the active growing season, but also on wintering. Sheltering crops is especially important for regions with little snow and harsh winters. Therefore, in order to protect the bushes from overheating and frost, it is important to figure out when, what and how to cover them for the winter.

Possible difficulties

If improperly cared for, strawberries in a greenhouse can be affected by diseases and pests. Major diseases develop due to excessive watering and high air humidity. Strawberry bushes can be affected by:

• brown spotting;
• powdery mildew;
• white rot.

To prevent the development of diseases, regular ventilation of the greenhouse and preventive treatments with special preparations serve.

If the plant is affected by late blight - rotting of the roots, then the diseased bushes must be removed. It is necessary to carry out regular inspections of greenhouse wards so as not to miss the moment and prevent infection of the entire plantation.

Strawberries in a greenhouse without heating can produce juicy berries from early spring until late autumn. This method does not require large expenses, plantings do not suffer from bad weather, water and land area are saved. Labor costs are also minimized, because greenhouse berries require minimal care and are less susceptible to diseases if you follow the rules of agricultural technology. The gardener will incur the main financial and labor costs at the initial stage, when he needs to purchase materials for the greenhouse and planting material. But the gratitude will be abundant and long-lasting annual harvests.

Do I need to insulate strawberries for the winter?

In modern gardening, many new varieties of strawberries and wild strawberries have appeared, characterized by high winter-hardy qualities. In temperate climates, with stable snow cover of at least 30 cm, such plants do not need to be covered. If in your region winter precipitation occurs rarely, so that the berry plant does not freeze, shelter is required for it.

The method of insulating strawberry planting depends on the climatic characteristics of a particular area. For example, in the vastness of Russia, the technology for preparing crops for wintering will vary significantly in Siberia, the Moscow region and the Kuban.

It is important for the gardener to understand that a decrease in air temperature to -8°C has a detrimental effect on the bushes. Lower thermometer readings increase the risk of plant death. Therefore, the feasibility and method of covering the beds must be determined based on:

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• temperature regime of a particular region;
• presence of precipitation in winter;
• location of the strawberry berry plant (protection from draft winds, depth of groundwater, illumination of the area).

In some areas, for a safe wintering, bushes may need ordinary mulch made from sawdust, straw or hay, while in others agrofibre, plastic film and other heat-saving materials are needed.

Greenhouse for strawberries

Garden strawberries are cultivated indoors not only in the northern regions - southerners also use similar structures to enjoy the berries all year round. It is not difficult to purchase a ready-made greenhouse - there are many varieties and options on sale. Many summer residents prefer to build a warm winter road for strawberries with their own hands.

First you need to find a suitable place on the site; it should have a minimum slope. You also need to think about access to sunlight throughout the day. Therefore, when planning a building site, they are guided by the cardinal directions. The best option is the direction to the south and north.

Note! Optimal heat and light conditions will be ensured by the correct roofing. The greenhouse is equipped with uneven slopes: on the north side - at 30°, on the south - at 70°. Or choose the option with sloping side walls.

Many summer residents prefer the arched type of structure, using wooden frames or metal corners for the frame.

When building a greenhouse, you need to follow this algorithm:

• markings are carried out on the selected site - a plan for the future structure;
• At the corners, posts up to 1 m high are driven into the ground; if the length of the future greenhouse exceeds 2 m, intermediate risers will be needed;
• longitudinal corners are attached to the racks on top - this will become the basis for the frames;
• along the bottom, to increase the rigidity of the structure, a board 20-30 cm wide is nailed to the beams;
• At the ends in the center, racks are installed that determine the height of the greenhouse (intermediate beams may also be needed);
• these risers are connected to each other by a horizontal beam;
• prepare frames equal in length to the installation pitch of the racks on the longitudinal side; width is the distance from the outer rack to the inner one;
• all frames are fixed to the frame using bolted connections.

The structure can be glazed, but summer residents are increasingly choosing polycarbonate. This is a fairly durable and transparent material that protects against negative weather conditions and provides a suitable microclimate in the greenhouse.

The harsher the weather in a region, the more attention needs to be paid to maintaining heat inside the structure. It is advisable to cover the low walls of the greenhouse with bricks or sheathe them with MDF boards (other options are possible), not forgetting about the heat and waterproofing layer. It is also worth thinking about the heating, lighting, ventilation and watering systems.

The inside of the greenhouse is equipped with shelving - a set of special shelves with sides. Boxes and flowerpots with strawberries will be installed on them. If you plan to grow a crop in a canopy, you should add several additional beams to the structure.

Greenhouse for strawberries

The width of the racks can be different - it all depends on the size of the greenhouse itself. Optimal parameters are considered to be from 0.7 to 1.2 m. The height of the sides is maintained within 20-25 cm.

The racks are placed along the building, trying to ensure that the passage between them is at least half a meter. To ensure convenient care for strawberries, it is better to place the shelves at a height of 70-80 cm from the floor of the greenhouse.

Covering time for strawberries

In order to insulate strawberries in a timely manner, it is first important to understand the meaning of the temperature regime for them. Then the gardener will be able to draw the right conclusions about the full development of the crop, existing threats and critical temperatures.

The main feature of garden strawberries and strawberries is that their root zone is located at a depth of 6–8 cm. These soil layers freeze even with slight frost. If the above-ground part of the bush can withstand such conditions, then during a period of sharp temperature changes, the bush dies.

It is impossible to unequivocally answer the question at what temperature it is worth starting to build a shelter in a strawberry bed. After all, the winter-hardy qualities of varietal plants play a significant role. For example, for some, a temperature of -4ºС may be critical, while others will survive -8ºС. In addition, it is worth considering that strong gusts of wind reduce the temperature in the area.

Experts advise beginning gardeners to start covering their strawberry plots at the first frost. It is important to focus on the monthly forecasts of weather forecasters, since the coming warming after the temperature drops to sub-zero may destroy strawberries.

Dutch technology

The technology involves growing strawberries in plastic bags, which can be placed horizontally or hung vertically.

1. The bags are filled with a mixture of two parts peat, one part perlite and one and a half parts sawdust and sealed with an iron or soldering iron.
2. In each bag, several horizontal holes 6-8 cm long or round holes are cut for each bush.
3. The bags are placed evenly on the flooring or floor. The distance between them should be about 30 cm.
4. Install a drip irrigation system. Three tubes need to be connected to each bag: to the bottom layer of soil, to the middle part and to the top layer. With daily watering, the water consumption will be half a liter per bag.
5. The seedlings are planted in the holes made.

Next, you need to provide the necessary care and wait for the harvest.

How to keep strawberries from freezing and how can you insulate them?

Many, even experienced, gardeners often wonder how to cover a strawberry front garden. After all, here it is important not only to strictly follow the shelter technology, but also to correctly select the necessary material.

Some solve the problem by purchasing specialized canvases, while others make do with improvised means. Judging by the reviews, agrofibre, various types of vegetation and sawdust have gained greater trust among consumers. Read on to learn about the advantages and disadvantages of each option.

Agrofibre

This is an advantageous alternative to polyethylene film, obtained by melting polypropylene (also called spunbond). The material is environmentally friendly, allows air to pass through well, promoting aeration of the roots, but at the same time does not block sunlight and retains heat. It can be used to protect against birds, hail, frost, and weed activity.

Under cover, the crop can develop unhindered and absorb moisture from outside.

Experts call the main advantage of this option a moderate concentration of moisture and heat , which makes it possible to bring the internal climate as close as possible to the ideal. In addition, the fiber is characterized by high wear resistance and strength.

• Among the disadvantages it is worth noting:

• high cost;
• the need to measure the beds in order to calculate the required amount of canvas;
• each bush will need to make a separate cut;
• there is a high risk of damage to the crop in the spring, when it will be necessary to remove the cover.

The assortment includes white and black agrofibre. The first option is intended for the greenhouse effect, since it allows oxygen to pass through well and allows plants to grow. The second is used exclusively for mulching. Its essence is to kill weeds and create the necessary microclimate in the inner spheres of the earth.

Vegetation

We are talking about the use of fodder hay, mown grass, fallen leaves, tops, straw, spruce branches, straw . All these materials retain heat well, but at the same time they pose a threat to strawberries, being a cozy abode for wintering pests.

Residues of grains in the straw can attract rodents to the garden bed. Wet mulch begins to rot, thereby destroying the plants underneath. With a gust of strong wind, the shelter can fly away, exposing a cold-sensitive crop.

Of all the above, the most harmless is spruce branches, the needles of which help retain snow on the rows, but do not retain heat well.

Experts advise in regions with cold winters not to resort to such experiments and to insulate the plantation using agrofibre.

Sawdust

This is an effective and affordable shelter option that allows oxygen and water to pass through well, and also retains the desired microclimate. its benefit lies in the fact that, when wet, small particles do not scatter when the wind blows.

However, for regions with unstable snow precipitation, such a shelter threatens freezing, since a wet ball on the surface of the earth acts as a conductor of cold to the root system of the bushes.

You can ensure a successful winter for the plant under such shelter by first covering the bushes with some kind of frame, for example, spruce branches or polyethylene. If frost falls on dry ground, sawdust can be poured directly onto the strawberry tops.

It is preferable to harvest sawdust from deciduous trees, since coniferous trees contribute to the formation of an acidic soil environment. No more than a bucket will be needed per square meter of plantation. The protective layer of mulch should be about 7–9 cm.

In spring, it is important to carefully remove all particles of covering material. Otherwise, it will oxidize the soil, which is contraindicated for strawberries.

Greenhouse preparation

In order for strawberries in a greenhouse to grow well and produce abundant harvests, you need to properly prepare the greenhouse, which can be glass, film or polycarbonate.

There is no consensus on which greenhouse will be better, but many gardeners believe that strawberries in a polycarbonate greenhouse give better yields, because such material retains heat better. Also, glass and film greenhouses cannot always withstand the natural elements: they break under gusts of strong wind, cannot withstand snow cover, and the film deteriorates under the rays of the summer sun.

A polycarbonate greenhouse is easier to construct, and they also have a number of positive characteristics:

• strength;
• durability;
• the ability to transmit sunlight well and retain ultraviolet radiation;
• good heat saving.

Recently, polycarbonate has become increasingly popular among summer residents as a material for greenhouses and greenhouses.

How to properly insulate strawberries: step-by-step diagram

Having decided on the covering material, you can begin preparing the plantation. Regardless of where strawberries grow - in open ground or in a greenhouse - before the start of the winter season they need to be fertilized, hilled and mulched.

Experienced gardeners advise performing this work, guided by the following rules:

At the beginning of autumn, weed and loosen the soil around the bushes. It is advisable to remove weeds from the garden bed before their seeds ripen.

Every 3–5 years, replant the bushes to a new location. If the plants remain in the same place, be sure to cut off the foliage.

At the end of August - beginning of September, trim the tendrils that the plant has produced. Otherwise, they will weaken the bush, which is extremely undesirable before wintering.

Apply organic fertilizers in the form of humus or compost. These substances will revitalize the plant and protect it from the cold. However, you should not overdo it with their quantities, since excessive doses can destroy the bushes.

Carry out preventive spraying of the bed against pests, the most common of which is the transparent mite. Fungicidal preparations or wood ash, karbofos are effective in combating it. In case of slugs and snails, it is recommended to use metaldehyde.

Further actions depend on where the strawberries grow.

In the greenhouse

Thanks to the year-round positive temperature regime, greenhouse strawberries begin to bear fruit 1.5–2 months earlier than those growing in open beds. To maintain stable heat in unheated structures, it is imperative to insulate the plantation.

The gardener must take care of this even before planting the seedlings. It is important that the soil under the strawberries does not freeze . To do this, in the place where it is planned to be planted, you need to build a low fence from beams and boards around the perimeter of the bed.

Then lay out on the bottom:

• plastic film;
• chain-link mesh;
• a layer of compost or humus up to 10 cm thick;
• a layer of mulched grass up to 12 cm thick;
• a layer of nutritious soil up to 25 cm thick.

Additionally, a low fence is made of plywood or chipboard.
Its sides are covered with plastic film or agrofibre. It is important to control the temperature so that the plant does not overripe and does not begin the premature growing season.

In the open ground

After preventive disinfection of the strawberry bed, you need to wait until it dries completely. And only then can you build a shelter. Please note that the material must completely cover the entire plantation.

Regardless of the product you choose, before covering the strawberries with it, be sure to build a fence out of boards around the perimeter of the plantation. Its height should rise 10 cm above the garden bed. Such a fence will serve as a snow trap, accumulating it in the desired area.

Then the bushes, prepared and covered with spruce branches, can be generously sprinkled with mulch. If you plan to use spunbond as a cover, you will need accurate measurements of the area. The canvas is spread over the plants and no special holes are made in it for the bushes. Such manipulations are only necessary if agrofibre is used in the spring (to kill weeds and create the desired microclimate). It is important to securely fix the edges of the fabric so that the wind does not tear them off.

Growing strawberries is a troublesome business because without the participation of human resources it is never successful. But all the energy expended will be rewarded with healthy and very tasty berries. A bountiful early harvest is quite possible with proper care.

Didn't you enjoy your bountiful harvest of strawberries last summer? The plants were sick, and the berries were small and took a long time to ripen? The reason for this may be poor wintering of strawberries. Experienced summer residents know that only plants that are well-sheltered for the winter will remain healthy and produce a bountiful harvest in the new season.

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Planting strawberries in pots and placing them in tiers

This is a modernized method of Dutch technology. Strawberries are planted in pots that are placed in tiers. The number of tiers depends on the growth of the gardener. This planting method helps to save space and plant more strawberries in the greenhouse. Each pot must be equipped with high-quality drainage to avoid stagnation of water.

The advantages of this technology include:

• high productivity due to compact placement, better lighting and air circulation;
• convenience when picking berries;
• better provision of temperature conditions, because cold air remains near the ground, and warm air rises;
• saving water - moisture from pots evaporates longer than from beds.

Why cover plants for the winter?

Not all regions of our country receive sufficient snow in winter, which can serve as a natural shelter for strawberries. As a result, plants may freeze when the air temperature drops to -8° C or lower. Even if there is enough snow in winter, strong winds can sweep away this cover and the strawberries also run the risk of freezing.

In recent years, natural phenomena such as provocative thaws have become more frequent in many regions of Russia. With the onset of spring, strawberries may take the warming as a signal to awaken, but suddenly the onset of frost can destroy weakened plants. Strawberries can also freeze at the very beginning of winter, when the amount of snow that has fallen is still very small, and gusts of strong winds can destroy young leaves and even plant buds.

Many summer residents are also familiar with the concept of bulging. This occurs when recently planted plants are pushed out by frozen soil due to the lack of snow cover. Finally, strawberries that are not covered in a timely manner may lose their roots - severe frosts can completely destroy the root system.

A sufficient layer of covering material will help cope with all these problems and keep the plants alive and healthy for the next season.

Selection of variety and preparation of planting material

For growing in greenhouses, it is better to select varieties specially adapted by breeders. Remontant varieties have the following advantages:

• the berries are characterized by tenderness, sweetness, a subtle and strong aroma;
• increased frost resistance of the crop;
• low maintenance makes growing easier;
• elegant appearance.

Growing remontant strawberries will require care and diligence, but the time spent will pay off. With proper care and timely replacement of aged bushes with young shoots, you can obtain harvests in the greenhouse all year round. The phrase: “strawberries are a summer berry” will lose its relevance. To obtain a year-round harvest, you will need to divide the beds in the greenhouse into three groups:

• fruitful;
• growing up;
• freshly planted.

As the plants grow and age, the role of the beds will change. To maintain a year-round agricultural cycle, it will be necessary to periodically sow seedlings in a timely manner and store a supply of rooted shoots in a dark place.

The most adapted for greenhouses are the following remontant varieties:

With appropriate care and provision of temperature conditions, they are capable of producing crops all year round. For this, the following selection of varieties is also recommended:

• Viva Rosa: late ripening;
• Honeoi: early maturation;
• Elvira: early ripening, high yield;
• Elsanta: medium ripening, large fruits.

Strawberry Honey

For your own consumption, you usually choose varieties that are distinguished by their delicate taste and aroma. When planning commercial cultivation, preference is given to strawberries, whose berries quickly gain weight and tolerate transportation and storage well.

Seedlings purchased in the fall should be planted in peat pots. You can prepare planting material yourself if you already have strawberries in your garden. At the beginning of the summer, you need to take several pots of soil and dig the tendrils that the plant has put out into them. They should not be cut off from the main bush until they are completely rooted.

After rooting, the tendrils are cut off from the mother bush, and the pots are stored in a cool, dark place, such as a cellar. The cellar must be ventilated so that excess moisture does not accumulate in it. There the seedlings are stored until mid-winter. Holding in a cold place helps harden the bushes, increase their ability to tolerate frost and ultimately contributes to increased crop yields.

If there is a heated greenhouse, the temperature in it is first set and maintained at +7 o C; before the onset of spring, the heating is made more intense, but so as not to exceed 12-14 o C. Otherwise, the plants may not bloom. As soon as most of the plants begin to flower, the temperature regime begins to be maintained in the range of +20+28 o C.

When to cover strawberries

Strawberries covered early for the winter may begin to rot under a layer of covering material, and plants covered late risk freezing. The timing of the start of shelter may be different for each region of the country, however, throughout almost the entire territory of Russia, September and October are quite warm months and are not suitable for sheltering plants.

Monitor the air temperature and the first frosts - when the temperature first stays in the sub-zero zone for a week or more, you can safely go to the plot and insulate the strawberries. During this period, the soil manages to freeze by only 2-3 centimeters - this is not at all detrimental to the root system.

Planting care

For a good harvest, it is important to properly care for strawberries. We have already talked above about how to maintain light and temperature conditions, as well as humidity in the room used.

1. Be sure to provide greenhouse strawberries 8-10 hours a day of additional light from at least December until early March.
2. Remember to gradually increase the temperature in the greenhouse from the moment the buds form.
3. Control the humidity in the greenhouse.
4. Be sure to provide fertilizing with fertilizers. For example, once every 2 weeks, use the following mixture: for 10 liters of water - 10 g of potassium salt and 80 g of superphosphate with ammonium nitrate.

Pollination

When growing strawberries in greenhouse conditions, pollination will have to be done manually. Alternatively, you can start a small hive with bees or bumblebees, but this is too labor-intensive. Therefore, it is better to arm yourself with a soft brush. You can buy it at any office supply store.

Pollination should be carried out as follows: 2-3 times a day, carefully pass the brush over the flower, collecting pollen, and then transfer it to another flower. It is very important that at this time the air humidity in the greenhouse is low.

There is a more interesting way. Take a regular household fan and direct the air stream at the flowers. The pollen from them will scatter and settle on other plants.

Prevention of diseases and pests

The main enemy of strawberries is gray rot. It is very difficult to treat it; it is much easier to prevent its occurrence. To do this, control the humidity level in the greenhouse and do not allow it to rise to a critical level.

Apply fungicides during the flowering period of strawberries, before the petals fall off.

Periodically use a fungicide for spraying: it is applied by drop method to the root zone. This should be done during the strawberry flowering period, before the petals fall off.

Warmth and humidity often encourage slugs to hatch. Special traps, which can be purchased at any hardware store, will help you get rid of them.

Preparatory work

Preparatory work prior to covering strawberry bushes for winter is an important procedure that helps keep the plants healthy and strong.

Preparation consists of several points, namely:

1. mustache trimming;
2. removal of old, rotten and diseased leaves;
3. loosening the soil around the bushes and between the beds;
4. weeding the beds to remove all weeds;
5. plant nutrition;
6. treatment (if necessary) with fungicides.

On the eve of sheltering the strawberries for the winter, it is necessary to clear the bed of weeds.

If after weeding a small number of weeds still manage to sprout, they will no longer cause much harm, since they will not be able to scatter their seeds. In order not to damage the root system of “dormant” strawberries, it is better to weed these plants with the onset of spring.

The next important stage of preparation is trimming the strawberry mustache. You should remove all the mustaches that are unnecessary for propagation, which take a lot of juice and nutrients from the plant, which is why in the spring the bush can “wake up” very weak or even die. You should also remove leaves from the bushes (old, rotten and diseased) and burn them outside the site.

Do not forget about loosening the soil - this procedure will saturate the soil with oxygen and allow the roots to breathe freely. Loosening needs to be done not only around the strawberry bushes, but also between the rows.

When loosening, it is important not to expose the roots, but, on the contrary, to hill up the plants well.

Features of sheltering strawberries planted in different places

Strawberries are not always grown in garden beds. Sometimes gardeners decide to plant bushes in a prepared pipe (both vertically and horizontally), in car tires, boxes, etc. How to cover strawberries planted in different places?

Covering strawberries planted in a pipe

If strawberries are planted in pipes on your site, they should first be placed in pre-dug trenches. The pipe should be located half its height in the ground (if possible, it is better to move the pipes to greenhouses for the winter).

After you have placed the pipe in the trench and sprinkled it with earth, you need to cover the strawberries with any suitable covering (agrofibre, spunbond, film, etc.) and secure it at the edges with weights.

Covering strawberries planted in tires or boxes.

If possible, it is also recommended to move tires and boxes with strawberries to greenhouses.

Regardless of whether the strawberries will winter outside or in a greenhouse, it is necessary to use covering material to protect them from low temperatures and wind. Just cover the “flowerbed” with any insulation and firmly fix it around (you can insert additional fences around tires or boxes to secure the covering material to them, or use improvised weights).

If, for example, in the area of ​​the tires in which strawberries are planted, they form a pyramid, that is, a vertical bed, then when wrapping each level, secure the covering material around the perimeter with a tourniquet or rope.

Feeding and disinfection

Fertilizing is very important when preparing strawberries for winter. It can be carried out in late September - early October, when the soil is not yet frozen and is able to absorb nutrients.

As a top dressing, you can use ordinary ash, manure, superphosphate and other organic complexes. Ash must be scattered between the rows of strawberries; 300 g of ash should be taken per 1 m2 of territory. Apply fertilizers such as Roskoncentrate or Kemira according to the instructions.

If you are afraid that mold may appear under the layer of covering material, treat the plants with Bordeaux mixture (3% solution). Dissolve 3 g of the mixture in enough water, pour it into a spray bottle and spray the strawberry bushes. Abundant watering is not necessary - just moisten the foliage of the plants.

You should not cover strawberries immediately after spraying with Bordeaux mixture or any other composition - the foliage must dry well before covering. This usually takes a couple of days. If it rains during this time, the treatment should be repeated.

When to start preparing strawberries for winter?

The timing of autumn gardening procedures depends on the region in which the summer cottage is located. It is necessary to determine the moment so that the bushes have time to recover and get stronger after pruning and replanting. If prepared too late, the berry runs the risk of freezing, which will lead to its weakening, disease or death.

Cleaning times in different regions of the country:

Covering methods

There are a lot of ways to cover strawberries for the winter - the main thing is to choose the most preferable one, not only for yourself, but also for the plants. So, healthy, perennial, well-developed bushes should simply be covered with shelter, but young and weak bushes should be completely covered.

One common way to cover strawberry plants is mulching. Dry straw, leaves, tree bark, sawdust, hay, shavings, pine needles, humus, peat, grass and even cardboard and paper are natural materials used in soil mulching. Mulch is spread around the strawberry bushes in a layer of 10-20 cm, as well as between the rows, so that frost cannot reach the roots of the plants.

To preserve snow on the beds, it is recommended to install a low fence around the strawberry plantation (for example, made of PVC panels, boards, etc.). Garden buildings will also help protect the beds from the winds.

When to cover strawberries in 2022 according to the lunar calendar, favorable and unfavorable dates

The Moon, a satellite of the Earth, can have a powerful influence on the life cycles of living organisms on our planet. We know that there are several lunar phases: new moon, waxing phase, full moon and waning phase.

Passing through these phases, the Moon always affects the state of the Earth's flora and fauna in different ways. Among gardeners and summer residents there are many who deny the lunar influence on the condition of plants on the site, but there are even more who, on the contrary, do not doubt it at all.

If you prefer to rely on the Earth’s satellite in gardening matters, then here are some tips on which day according to the lunar calendar you need to insulate strawberries, and on which day of the lunar calendar it is better not to do anything.

If we talk in general about the lunar phases, experienced gardeners recommend adhering to the following rules:

• On the new moon according to the lunar calendar, try once again not to disturb the crops being grown, instead pay attention to pests and insects that you would like to get rid of;
• On a full moon according to the lunar calendar, it is also better not to work with plants; concentrate on procedures with fruits and berries;
• During the growing phase according to the lunar calendar, nutrients move from the roots to the foliage, that is, it is best to work with the soil, water it and fertilize it;
• In the waning phase according to the lunar calendar, plant juices, on the contrary, rush from the leaves to the roots, so you can trim leaves, get rid of weeds, and also plant root crops.

Returning to when are the most favorable days according to the lunar calendar for covering strawberries for the winter, it is worth noting that there are quite a lot of them!

But do not forget that you need to determine in advance, based on the climatic conditions of the region, when you need to start insulation work.

In 2022, according to the lunar calendar, the following days are considered favorable for covering strawberries in the fall for the winter:

• According to the lunar calendar for October: 13-18 (corresponds to the 7-13 day of the waning phase, the constellations Capricorn, Aquarius, Pisces), 25-31 (19-25 day of the waning phase, the constellations Gemini, Cancer, Leo and Virgo);
• According to the lunar calendar for November: 1-2 (25-27 day of the waning phase, constellations Virgo, Libra, 11-13 (7-10 day of the growing phase, constellations Aquarius, Pisces), 23-26 (19-23 day of the waning Moon, Moon in Cancer, Leo)
• According to the lunar calendar for December: 1 (26-27 day of the waning phase, constellation Libra, 11-13 (7-10 day of the waxing Moon in Pisces, Aries), 23-26 (19-22 day of the waning Moon in Leo, Virgo), 30-31 (25-27 day of the waning phase in the constellations in Scorpio, Taurus).

INTERESTING! The days in November, when according to the lunar calendar in 2022 it is best to cover strawberries in the fall for the winter, completely coincide with days favorable for harvesting the site. Therefore, if there are unfinished cleaning tasks left, be sure to finish them.

Shelter materials

Materials for covering strawberries can be either natural or artificial. Their main task is to keep plants alive and healthy until the onset of spring warmth.

Natural covering materials can serve as:

• spruce branches,
• dry stalks of corn or reeds,
• fallen tree leaves,
• sunflower stems,
• peat or humus,
• hay or straw
• tyrsa (shavings),
• own strawberry foliage, etc.

When covering strawberries with natural materials, give preference to those that will not only warm the plants in winter, but also saturate the soil with useful substances when the snow begins to melt (humus, peat, etc.).

Agrofibre

Modern amateur gardeners do not bother collecting dry leaves, pine needles or sawdust to cover strawberries - they replace them with agrofibre. It is an environmentally friendly, non-woven material that has undergone special anti-UV treatment. Very light, transmitting sunlight and allowing plants to breathe, this material can protect bushes from frost.

Agrofibre has many analogues:

Straw

Straw is a natural protection for plants, which not only protects from frost, but also prevents plant rotting. The fact is that straw is capable of releasing fungicides - disinfectants that fight mold and fungi. Strawberries under such protection are not only warm, but also healthy.

Foliage

The foliage of broad-leaved trees is an excellent covering material for strawberries. Summer residents give the greatest preference to oak leaves - they are less susceptible to rotting than others, and, therefore, can serve for a long time as a winter “blanket” for bushes.

Spruce and pine spruce branches

You can build excellent protection for strawberries for the winter from pine or spruce branches. Needles can not only retain heat in the garden bed, holding a thick layer of snow, but also protect strawberry bushes from unwanted attacks by rodents: voles, mice, etc. These animals do not like the smell of pine needles.

Inorganic and organic mulch

Inorganic mulch, which uses pebbles, stones, sand, gravel, black polyethylene, etc., is good because it does not attract parasites and plant pests, and also does not decompose and can serve as cover for many years. In contrast, organic mulch is subject to decomposition, attracts various insects, but perfectly saturates the soil with useful substances.

What kind of strawberry crop you will harvest in the new season depends only on you and the method of plant protection you choose. Treat this procedure with full responsibility and care, the result will not disappoint you!

Frost protection

One of the most important procedures in the fall is protecting strawberries from freezing. For this purpose, it is necessary to create a reliable shelter from frost and snow. Mulching or agrofibre will help solve the problem.

Mulching

In the second half of August, mulch should be laid.

Suitable for this purpose:

It is permissible to use peat, but in small quantities. Otherwise, soil over-oxidation will occur.

Mulching is done like this:

Agrofibre

It is better to replant strawberries under agrofibre in the fall. The material will protect the plant from frost in winter, and from harmful vegetation in spring.

Features of sheltering strawberries of different ages

If you have strawberries of different ages on your site, then pay attention to the fact that young and perennial specimens need different covering techniques.

Sheltering young strawberry bushes for the winter

Young bushes need more careful and thorough shelter. Therefore, it is necessary to completely cover the plants (from the very leaves to the soil) with insulation, be it biomaterial (straw, peat or pine needles) or special agrofibre.

Also remember that the use of arcs and insulation attached to them above the bed (creating small tunnels with air circulation and heat retention) will create the most optimal conditions for wintering strawberries.

Sheltering adult strawberry bushes for the winter

Adult specimens (2-4 years) are already strong, therefore (unlike young ones) they do not need complete winter shelter.

It will be enough in the fall to insulate the growing point, which is most vulnerable in cold winters. Distribute biomaterial for winter shelter or any insulation on the soil around the perimeter of the bush.