Green early gooseberry Ural emerald: main characteristics


Gooseberry Ural emerald: description of the variety

Photo of gooseberry Ural Izumrud

The Ural Emerald variety was created in the Chelyabinsk region; the famous breeder Vasily Ilyin worked on its creation. He created quite a few varieties of gooseberries, and this was one of the best. Two varieties of “Nugget” and “Perventsa Minusinsk” were crossed.

The foliage of the gooseberry variety Ural Izumrud has a dark, green tint. The leaf is not smooth, it has wavy edges and five lobes. The sheets are not all the same size; they can be small, medium or large, depending on weather conditions. They are very close together, creating a dense crown.

The height of the variety usually reaches about 150-180 centimeters; the shrub itself is not spreading and takes up little space, but at the same time it has a very dense crown. All shoots of the variety are straight and hard, usually green-brown in color and quite thin. There are very few thorns on the branches, they are soft and do not prick at all, so this variety is classified as a species without thorns.

Gooseberry flowers have a light pink or lilac hue and are small. Since the plant is bisexual, it does not require additional pollination.

The berries have the shape of a regular circle, sometimes they can be slightly elongated. The weight of the berries varies, it ranges from 4 grams to 9 grams. The pulp is dense, not watery, the seeds are small and black. The skin is thin and has no color; the pulp of the berries is visible through it. The pulp of the berry is very juicy and soft, and the berry also produces a pleasant aroma. 6.The taste of the berry is sweetish with a slight sourness.

The Ural emerald variety is suitable for the Urals and Siberia, since it was created precisely for these territories. Ilyin wanted to create a variety that would cope well with frosts and fairly severe frosts. Due to its peculiarity, it began to spread to other territories.

Note : Participating in the competition, this variety won in the nomination “The most unpretentious plant”, as well as “The highest resistance to diseases and pests”.

Characteristics and description of fruits

The fruits are medium or large. Weight varies from 3.5 to 7 g. The shape of the berries is oval-round. They have very thin skin of emerald color.

The pulp is juicy with a small amount of seeds. Gooseberries taste sweet. Has a tasting rating of 5 out of 5.

Areas of use

This gooseberry is recommended to be consumed fresh, since after heat treatment the berries lose up to half of their beneficial substances. They are also used to make preserves and jams, but they have an inconspicuous gray-green color and a liquid consistency.

Frost and drought resistance

Its frost resistance can be explained by the fact that its parents also tolerated frost and drought well. The variety can withstand temperatures even lower - 34 degrees. If the frost reaches -40, the gooseberries must be covered so that they do not die.

The variety has a moderate tolerance to drought, but it is better not to tempt fate and water the plant well. Watering is directly related to the quantity and quality of the crop.

Note : A week before you are going to pick the berries, you need to stop watering. If this is not done, the berries will be sour.

Features of seasonal care

Since this variety is resistant to diseases and pests, the main care involves watering, mulching and loosening the soil, removing weeds growing around the bush, periodic application of fertilizers and seasonal pruning.

Watering and fertilizing

This variety requires moderate watering as it is drought tolerant. Seasonal feeding is very important, but the use of fertilizers has its own nuances. For example, in the spring, nitrogen fertilizers are applied to the soil; you can use urea, which is simply scattered under the bush even before the snow completely melts.

Interesting! During the flowering period of the bush, you need to inspect its leaves, and if they are large enough, then you do not need to apply nitrogen fertilizers, only potassium-phosphorus ones. If the growth of shoots is small, then you can add a little nitrogen, but this is done with caution so that the berries do not accumulate nitrates.

Autumn feeding will help the bushes better survive the winter. At this time, potassium and phosphorus fertilizers are used.

Mulching and loosening

The bush is mulched with hay and sawdust. Loosening the soil is done regularly, as well as weeding weeds, which only spoil the appearance and take away nutrients from the plant.

Using supports

As a rule, supports are not used, since the bushes grow slightly spreading, with strong branches that are resistant to the wind.

Preventative treatment

Since this plant is resistant to diseases and pests, no additional treatment is necessary; it is enough to follow the basic rules of care.

Trimming

Since this variety is especially prone to thickening the crown, it needs pruning. Periodically remove those root shoots that can be called superfluous. In addition, you need to prune old branches that are darker in color. Such procedures should be carried out in early spring, since the growing season for this variety starts very early.

Interesting! Alternatively, you can delay pruning until late summer.

Preparing for winter

Since this is a frost-resistant variety, it does not need to be covered for the winter; it already tolerates such conditions well.

What kind of yield does the Ural emerald gooseberry produce?

If you read reviews from gardeners, you can come to the conclusion that this variety is a high-yielding variety. Although it is bisexual and does not need pollinators, if you plant another variety next to it, they will pollinate each other, and the yield can increase by 35-45%. Sometimes plants have problems and are unable to pollinate themselves. Harvesting must be done several times. Since the variety is an early ripening variety, when at least half of the berries are ripe, you need to start picking. This will allow the remaining berries to ripen faster, since already ripe berries will not interfere with them. On average, one bush produces about 5-7 kilograms of fruit. The harvest is quite dependent on weather conditions.

Also, collecting already ripe berries will protect them from shedding. Ripe berries become heavy and cannot stay on the branch, and in the hot sun they begin to shrink.

Note : The berries can be stored for about 10 days in a fairly warm room, but if you want to preserve the berries longer, you should put them in a cold room.

Gooseberries are very healthy, so it is best to eat them fresh, since it is in this form that they are filled with the greatest amount of vitamins. When treated with hot water, vitamins disappear by 30-60% and the berries cease to have much energy value. When preparing various jams, preserves, the berries are boiled, and they turn out to be a strange grayish color.

Reproduction

Gooseberries are propagated by cuttings. The procedure is carried out in the middle of the season, that is, in the summer. To do this, cut off a shoot about 15 cm long from an adult bush. The cut site is treated with a solution for the growth of the root system. When planting, the cuttings are deepened at an angle of 45°. Regular watering is required until shoots appear on the plant.

A simpler option is propagation by layering. It is enough to tilt one branch to the ground, pinch it with metal clothespins, sprinkle it with soil and water it generously with water. After a few days, the cuttings will take root and can be separated from the mother bush and then transplanted to the chosen location.

The Grushenka variety is popular for its abundant harvest, ease of care and harvesting of fruits. The berries have the property of changing color as they ripen from green to purple. The variety is frost-resistant and easily tolerates winter.

Disease resistance

The resistance of this variety to pests and diseases is quite high. But it is worth considering that if proper care is not carried out, treatment against pests, the choice of the right place and the right soil, then the gooseberry loses its stability and begins to suffer from septoria, anracnose, and powdery mildew. Or it is exposed to pests: aphids, spider mites or borers.

Diseases and pests, prevention

In rare cases, infection with anthracnose, septoria and attack by borers, aphids or spider mites is possible.

To avoid this, prevention is carried out. Spray early in spring and late autumn. To prepare the solution you need: 10 liters of water and one hundred and fifty grams of copper sulfate.

You can buy a ready-made product: Ridomil, Mospilan or Aktara.

It is necessary to remove weeds around the bushes, which provide shelter for insects. It is recommended to dig up the ground, sprinkling it with ash. Burn fallen leaves.

Gooseberry Ural emerald: pros and cons of the variety

pros:

  • High level of productivity.
  • Resistance to frost and frost.
  • Adapts well in the regions of the Urals.
  • With proper care, the plant can bear fruit for 17-20 years.
  • Large and tasty fruits.
  • Disease resistance.
  • Fruiting does not depend on weather conditions.
  • Small thorns that cannot harm a person when harvesting.
  • Unpretentiousness.
  • Long shelf life, while maintaining all taste and appearance.
  • It tolerates transportation well even over long distances.

Minuses:

  • Unstable harvest. That is, in the first year it can be 5 kilograms, next year 7 kilograms, and then again 5 kilograms.
  • Needs watering due to very dense crown.

How to choose the right culture

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Today, almost any variety of gooseberry can be purchased on the vegetable market of our country.

But it is important to understand that each variety has its own characteristics of growth and is suitable only for a certain region

Therefore, when choosing the best gooseberry varieties for the Urals, you should always take this point into account

In general, choosing and purchasing a crop suitable for the Ural climate is not difficult if you contact a specialized nursery. To do this, you will need the following actions:

  • choose a nursery that is located in your region, so you will be sure that the seedlings offered are zoned to your conditions;
  • purchase winter-hardy crops;
  • almost all modern hybrids are not only winter-hardy, but also resistant to many fungal defects, so give preference to these varieties;
  • If you are a beginner gardener, then choose those crops that do not require painstaking care and take root well.

At the moment, there are a lot of gooseberry varieties that do not have prickly thorns, and the berries have different rich colors and great taste. And in this case, the main thing is to choose the right variety.

Planting a variety

When planting gooseberries, certain rules must be followed. It is better to plant gooseberries with other crops, as this will allow the plant to be better pollinated.

The variety should be planted in mid-September. The seedling is either grown yourself, or you can buy Ural Izumrud gooseberries in a specialized store. In order to prepare the seedling yourself, you must already have an adult bush. In spring, you need to dig in several cuttings that are already a year old. During the summer period they will begin to grow and roots will appear. A seedling already with a good root system is transplanted separately.

Note : When planting gooseberries, you need to take into account weather conditions. The best choice would be 18-20 days before the first frost. During this time, the plant will be able to adapt and take root.

Reviews from summer residents

Gardeners note the high taste of the berries and the unpretentiousness of the bushes.

Nikolai Petrovich, Veliky Novgorod: “I have been growing different varieties of gooseberries for many years. The Ural emerald is one of my favorites. Many people don't like gooseberries because they have a sour taste, but this variety is very sweet and juicy. It is pleasant to eat it fresh. It also makes good compotes, jams and liqueurs.”

Victor, Petro.

Landing place

The Ural emerald variety is a light-loving variety, so the place should be well lit by sunlight. Exposure to the sun will allow the plant to protect itself from diseases and produce the highest possible yield. If the gooseberry was planted in a lowland, then with such planting it loses 20-30% of the yield, and with this arrangement, fungal diseases attack the plant.

This variety is not afraid of temperature changes, but with a lack of sun it becomes uneasy. The composition of the soil is also very important for gooseberries; for good development, they must be transplanted into soil with low acidity, which has a lot of nutrients. In swampy soils, gooseberries will die and will not be able to thrive.

Planting young seedlings on the site

In general, planting is done in the same way as planting other varieties, but there are several nuances that you should know about in advance.

Selection and preparation of seedlings

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For planting, you need to select high-quality healthy seedlings. It is best to purchase them in centers or large farms that specialize in breeding this variety.

Time and landing pattern

Since this variety is considered medium-spreading, you can plant several bushes next to each other in one area; they will not interfere with the development of plants. Moreover, along with self-pollination, cross-pollination will occur, and this will increase the yield.

Interesting! The best time for this is considered to be autumn, and in central Russia this is the period from late September to mid-October. But, of course, you need to focus not only on the calendar, but also on the weather forecast. Bushes should be planted before the first frost (about three weeks). Then they will have time to take root well and survive the winter well.

Choosing a landing site

This variety of gooseberry prefers open and well-lit places. At the same time, it is resistant to temperature changes and wind, so choosing a suitable site for it is not so difficult. The only difficulty is that this gooseberry is demanding on the soil, and a good harvest can only be obtained on loose loam.

But the humidity level should be moderate. Therefore, planting bushes in lowlands is not recommended. At higher elevations, the plant may lack moisture, but it all depends on the specific conditions.

Site preparation

No special preparation is needed for planting plants. Unless the groundwater is too high on the site. In such cases, if it is not possible to plant the bush on a mound, you have to arrange something like a flower bed 40-50 cm high and square in shape - 70x70 cm or even more, 80x80 cm.

There is no need to dig a deep hole, unless we are talking about an area with poor soils. Then part of the hole (about a third of it) is filled with compost mixed with humus and topsoil. But it doesn’t hurt to add ash when planting, regardless of the richness of the soil.

Planting process

The seedling is lowered into the prepared hole, its roots are straightened and covered with earth on top. The root collar should descend 5-7 cm under the ground, only then can adventitious roots form normally. After planting, the bush is watered with water.

Planting material

The cutting must meet certain criteria:

  • The cuttings should have 3-5 shoots.
  • The cuttings must be trimmed.
  • The buds that are on the cuttings must be intact.
  • There should be healthy, clean foliage.
  • The roots should not be dry.
  • The trunk bark should be smooth.

Before planting, seedlings of this variety must be disinfected using a manganese solution.

Requirements for planting and care

Planting is carried out in spring or autumn, the main thing is a month before the first frost, so that the roots have time to take root.

Action plan:

  • The hole is prepared 14 days before planting. Depth and width fifty centimeters.
  • Top soil is taken and fertilizers are added: 250 grams of superphosphate, forty grams of potassium sulfate, 20 liters of humus.
  • Everything is mixed and poured into the center.
  • When planting, the roots are straightened and evenly covered. The plant is watered.
  • Mulch with humus or peat.
  • Plant the crop in the sun.

Care consists of the following procedures: rationing, fertilizing, watering (carried out a couple of times during the summer, about three buckets of water are poured out at a time), weeding and pruning.

Let's watch the video and use tips on caring for the plant and pruning it:

How to plant gooseberries Ural emerald

The landing must be correct and performed according to specific instructions.

  • Prepare the planting site by digging up the soil at the site and removing all weeds and debris.
  • Dig a hole for the seedling, about 65 centimeters deep, about 50 centimeters in diameter.
  • At the very bottom you need to lay out a layer of ash, about 250 grams.
  • Place the seedling in the hole and distribute the roots throughout the hole.
  • The shoots must be separated so that they do not touch each other.
  • Cover the seedling with soil and compact it a little.
  • Water generously.
  • The buds on the lower branches of the cuttings are cut off.

Growing technology

Cultivation of the Ural emerald comes down to proper planting, regular watering, fertilizing and removing weeds from the site. If basic agrotechnical rules are observed, the bushes produce a plentiful and tasty harvest.

Optimal conditions

The variety cannot be planted on acidic and heavy soils. Also, the seedling will not grow if water stagnates in the area. It is advisable that the place be illuminated. In a shaded area, the bushes also bear fruit, but the quality of the harvest is significantly reduced.

Landing dates and rules

The seedling is planted in the fall, a month before the arrival of the first frost. This is required so that the roots have time to take root in the new place.

Landing is carried out as follows:

  1. 2 weeks before planting, prepare the planting hole. The diameter of the hole and depth are about 50 cm. The top layer of earth is thrown into a separate pile.
  2. After this, a nutrient substrate is prepared. The soil from the top layer is mixed with 2 buckets of humus, 250 g of superphosphate and 40 g of potassium sulfate, then poured onto the bottom of the hole, forming a hill.
  3. The roots of the seedling are evenly spread over this hill, after which they are sprinkled with a nutrient substrate. The earth is compacted. The planting hole is filled as much as possible.
  4. After planting, the seedling is watered. The tree trunk circle is mulched with humus or peat.

Further care

Water the plants weekly. 2-3 buckets of water are poured under each bush. After this, the soil is loosened so that a crust does not form in the tree trunk circle.

During the season, fertilizing is carried out 3 times:

  1. In the spring, before the start of the growing season, they are fed with rotted manure and nitrogen. This promotes the growth of green mass.
  2. The second time fertilizer is applied during flowering. During this period, they are fed with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers (50 g for each bush).
  3. Potassium is added for the third time. One plant requires about 50 g.

For good fruiting, it is important to prune. The procedure begins when the bushes are 4-5 years old. The best time is considered to be early spring and late summer. All old branches are cut off, leaving only 10-15 shoots. Also remove 2-3 new branches so that the bushes do not thicken.

Possible problems, diseases, pests

The Ural emerald is resistant to major diseases, but is still sometimes affected by:

  1. Anthracnose. Appears as light glossy spots that gradually turn brown. With this disease, the leaves begin to dry out and fall off. For treatment, a solution of copper sulfate is used. Add 100 g of active substance to 1 bucket of water. The bushes are treated every 2 weeks for 2 months.
  2. Septoria. Brown spots appear on the berries and leaves, which gradually lead to curling and wilting of the foliage. To combat the disease, a Nitrafen solution is used. For the first time, the bushes are sprayed immediately after symptoms are detected. Repeated processing is carried out after picking the berries.

In some cases, the variety suffers from the following pests:

  1. Aphids. Small insects that lead to slow growth of gooseberries and leaf fall. Aphids are usually found on the lower part of the leaf. Actellik helps a lot in pest control.
  2. Gooseberry sawfly caterpillars. One butterfly can lay up to 150 eggs, and in 1 season hatches 3 generations of caterpillars. To destroy them, use “Aktellik” or “Karbofos”.

Wintering

Before the arrival of winter, the bushes are prepared:

  1. All plant debris is removed from the site.
  2. They dig up the ground under the bushes.
  3. Perform sanitary pruning of gooseberries, removing all broken and diseased branches.
  4. The tree trunk circle is treated with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
  5. 3 buckets of water are poured under each bush.
  6. The soil is mulched with peat or humus. The mulch layer should be at least 10 cm.
  7. With the arrival of winter, the plants are covered with snow.

Reproduction


Propagation of gooseberries by layering
Gooseberries are propagated in two ways:

  1. By cuttings. After flowering, annual shoots are cut and divided into cuttings 15-20 cm long. Then they are planted in a box with moist soil and covered with a bottle or jar to create a greenhouse. After the leaves appear, the cuttings are transplanted to a permanent place.
  2. By layering. A one-year or two-year-old shoot is pressed to the ground and buried. After some time it will have its roots. After this, the shoot is separated from the main bush.

Features of cultivation depending on the region

In the northern regions, the variety feels comfortable. The bushes are simply watered and fertilized regularly.

In the southern regions, more careful care is required in terms of watering. It is important to monitor the soil moisture level. If the top layer has dried out by 10 cm or more, the plants are watered.

Cultivation care

Care must be carried out, since without it the yield will decrease by 30-70%. During the first 2-3 years, it is necessary to fertilize with nitrogen. The bush should be formed immediately after planting, the branches of the seedlings should be shortened. Next year you need to add 5-6 shoots to the main foliage, while cutting off the rest. In the 3rd year, you need to add more shoots according to the same pattern. The result should be a plant with 12 branches, which will form the crown. At this point, formation becomes optional, but it should be carried out as necessary.

The Ural emerald variety is not subject to tying, as it has good and strong branches. Watering should be done once every 6-8 days depending on weather conditions. Since the variety tolerates frost well, it does not need any shelter for the winter; hilling will be enough.

Crown formation

Crown formation has 2 goals:

  1. Increased yield.
  2. Preventing bush neglect and reducing natural aeration.

We also recommend reading: Description of the gooseberry variety Kolobok

Gooseberries set berries well on branches that are no more than 7-8 years old. Then the yield of such shoots rapidly decreases. Ideally, you need to buy a new seedling and remove the old one. But usually, amateur gardeners who have gooseberries only to decorate the garden and to eat a few berries do not even think about digging up their favorite fruit-bearing bush. Therefore, you can resort to another method - bush rejuvenation.

First of all, old branches that already produce less yield are removed. From 8 to 20 branches are left on the bush. When the bush is 6-7 years old, 2-3 old shoots need to be removed annually.

Pest Control

This variety has good resistance to many diseases and pests. It is very rare to see infected gooseberry bushes of this variety. The onset of the disease can be seen by spots that appear on the leaves or by a small coating on the fruit. To get rid of the disease, you need to treat the plant using Fitosporin, Topaz. The use of drugs should be carried out only according to the instructions.

As a preventive measure, the plant is treated with hot water; this treatment reduces the risk of infection by 60-80%. After treatment with hot water, the entire surface of the bush should be sprayed with Bordeaux mixture (2 - 3%), and the root trunk should be treated with ash. If the bush is infected with a pest, then it is worth using a special herbicide.

Gooseberry propagation

The Malachite variety is sure to please: in order not to waste money and time on purchasing planting material, you can obtain high-quality seedlings yourself.

WayWhat is it?Advantages and disadvantages
CuttingsAt the beginning of summer, green cuttings with a “heel” are cut. They are rooted in a nutrient substrate with constant humidity control. The method is troublesome: if you miss the moment and don’t water it on time, the cutting will probably die. The advantage is that you can get as many seedlings as you want.
Dividing the bushIn the fall, dig up a bush and cut the root zone into sections.We are not talking about advantages here - just imagine the process of dividing a spreading, prickly gooseberry bush.
VaccinationsA scion of the Malachite variety is grafted onto the rootstock.Unless as an experiment, the method has no special economic significance.
SeedsAfter stratification, the seeds are germinated and grown in a school until 2 years of age.An unlimited number of cuttings after 2 years is a good option for growing seedlings for commercial purposes.
Layering (“Chinese method”)In August, the drooping lower branch should be pinned to the soil and a low mound of earth should be added. The cuttings should be watered regularly. Rooting occurs in about a month, but cuttings should not be separated from the mother bush until spring. The simplest and most effective method in cases where you need to obtain several seedlings. The plants turn out strong and bear their first fruits the next season.

a brief description of

Most of all, gardeners' attention is attracted to the variety by its high yield (up to 6 kg per bush, 7-18 t/ha) and amazing resistance to most diseases of berry crops (primarily to the “troubles” of all gooseberry varieties - powdery mildew and anthracnose). However, the Ural emerald has other pleasant features.

Advantages of the variety

  • unpretentiousness to growing conditions;
  • long fruiting period - up to 20 years;
  • early ripening – end of June (Central region);
  • delicious, versatile berries;
  • When ripe, the fruits do not create problems with harvesting: they do not fall off and are easily removed from the stalk;
  • not susceptible to attack by insects - sawflies and moths;
  • high winter hardiness - up to 30 degrees below zero;
  • Good survival rate of green cuttings.
  • Disadvantages of the variety

    • declared yield 6 kg. and more can only be obtained on fertile soils;
    • presence of thorns;
    • like all other gooseberry varieties, it does not tolerate waterlogging and too dry soil.

    A solid list of advantages and only 2 “disadvantages” will not prevent a real gardener from getting the maximum result from the variety.

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