How to propagate climbing roses by cuttings and layering

How to propagate a climbing rose

With the help of climbing roses you can create unique landscape landscapes

When purchasing expensive varieties of climbing roses to create flower arrangements, you do not have to overpay by buying several plants of the same variety. There are several methods that you can use yourself and get several young plants that have all the characteristics of a mother bush.

Climbing shrub propagation methods

The most popular and effective methods of growing roses are:

• cuttings;
• growing cuttings;
• propagation by root suckers.

Professional plant breeders obtain new plants by growing them from seeds. This is a very long and labor-intensive job that requires patience and special skills. Amateur flower growers use simpler methods. Each method has its own characteristics that you should pay attention to.

Additional Information. When grown in warm climates and properly cared for, the length of shoots of some varieties can reach 15-17 meters.

Let's sum it up

Growing rose bushes in different ways is a fun activity. Having received a new plant with their own hands once, flower growers can no longer stop. Thanks to this world, new varieties of amazing roses with different colors and unique aroma appear.

Spring and summer are the best time to propagate climbing roses. Climbing roses are not propagated by seeds, because the grown plant will no longer repeat the parental characteristics. Both the coloring and all the advantages of your favorite variety may be lost when propagated by seeds. Therefore, in order to be guaranteed to obtain a sample that exactly replicates the bush you like, climbing roses are propagated vegetatively - by layering, cuttings and grafting.

Reproduction of climbing roses by layering

Climbing roses are easy to propagate by layering. However, this method will not produce a large number of seedlings. Climbing roses are propagated by layering in the spring.

To propagate a climbing rose by layering, you need to mark one or more shoots on your rose. Depending on how much free space there is around the rose, select a shoot of the appropriate length - 1 m will be enough, but more is possible. I advise you to start by taking a shoot 1-1.5 m long.

On the selected shoot, it is necessary to make shallow, barely noticeable cuts above the buds, and place these shoots in grooves of the same length as the shoot and a depth of 7-10 cm. It is advisable to first shed the bottom of the groove and lay humus for nutrition. Next, we simply pin the shoot at any corners and sprinkle the groove with soil, leaving only the top of the shoot on the surface.

Try to keep the soil in this area moist throughout the summer. The next season, simply cut off the shoot and divide it into parts with roots - there you have individual seedlings.

Propagation of climbing roses by cuttings

It is more difficult to propagate climbing roses from cuttings, but you can get more seedlings. It is better to do this in the summer, in mid-June, when the cuttings are quite soft. The amount of work and costs will depend on how many seedlings are needed. For example, to get 10 climbing rose seedlings, you will need: – 10 plastic cups of 0.5 l each; – 10 plastic containers with a volume of 1 l; - OK. 5 kg of soil and river sand. The cups are filled with a mixture of sand and soil, and covered on top with liter containers turned upside down to create a “greenhouse” effect.

To grow seedlings for sale, when you need to get hundreds of new young plants, you will need a separate greenhouse. On average per 1 sq. m decreases to approx. 100 cuttings. The soil in the greenhouse for growing cuttings is prepared as follows: the surface is covered with soil, a 2 cm layer of expanded clay is placed at the base, then a 6 cm nutrient layer of equal parts of peat, sand and humus and on top a layer of sand 3 cm thick. When growing, the cuttings are covered with film .

The cuttings do not need to be cut large; two internodes are enough. Next, the cuttings should be deprived of leaves, leaving only a couple at the top and placed in nutritious soil (in a glass or in a greenhouse) and watered

When propagating climbing roses by cuttings, it is important to remember that the soil (whether in a greenhouse or in cups) should always be slightly moist.

Usually in mid-September the cuttings form good roots and can be planted either in a permanent place or in a bed with loose and nutritious soil to grow for another season and then replanted.

Propagation of climbing roses by grafting

This is one of the most complex and labor-intensive methods of propagation, which allows you to obtain a large number of seedlings. The grafting is carried out with a bud, which is cut from a cultivated rose and grafted onto the rootstock (rosehip seedling), retreating 5-6 centimeters from the base. I advise you to propagate roses using the method of summer grafting - budding.

The easiest way to graft is through a T-shaped incision. Using a sharp knife, make a cut in the shape of the letter T on a rosehip seedling, cut a bud from the rose and insert it into the cut, after which we insulate it with budding film (it is commercially available).

When caring for a grafted cutting, some advise hilling the rose hips above the grafting site, but I never do this and I don’t understand why this is necessary. I'm just watching how the kidney develops. A month after grafting, I loosen the film by cutting off the knot, and in the spring I remove it completely. Then I wait another week and cut off the rosehip shoot above the growth from the bud.

Propagation of climbing roses by cuttings

How to trim a climbing rose for shaping

Cuttings are considered the most used method of propagating climbing roses. It can be used both in spring and autumn. Propagation of climbing roses by cuttings in the summer does not always work; the shoots become stiff, semi-lignified, and germination takes longer. And the summer heat promotes rapid evaporation of moisture, so cuttings planted in open ground often dry out.

Preparing the cuttings

Half the success is properly prepared planting material. The most promising are cuttings taken in the spring before the plant blooms. The optimal thickness of a shoot that can be cut should be at least 5 mm. The material is prepared in this order:

1. A fragment with three living buds is cut out from the middle part of the young shoot.
2. The lower part is shortened with garden pruning shears at an angle of 45 degrees.
3. The top of the cutting is carefully cut two centimeters above the leaf at an angle of 90 degrees.
4. On the top two petioles, cut off the top fifth leaf.
5. All leaves on the lower petiole are removed and shortened to 2 cm.

For cuttings, use the middle part of healthy shoots without visible signs of disease or pest damage.

Rooting in water, soil or potatoes

To obtain a young plant from a cutting, gardeners resort to several rooting methods.

Rooting in water

It is considered the easiest way. The cuttings are placed in a vessel with water filled to 1/3 of the height of the seedling. The jar or glass is completely covered with a bag, creating a greenhouse effect. The first white roots can be seen after 15-20 days.

The main problem that gardeners face when germinating roses in water is rotting of the cuttings. To avoid this, crushed activated carbon is added to the water. Also, do not allow water to stagnate. Once every three to four days the water should be changed and the cutting itself should be washed.

Note! If you add the rooting agent Kornevin or Epin to the water for germination, the time for the appearance of roots will be reduced to 10-12 days.

Rooting a seedling in the ground

Rotting of planting material can be avoided by rooting the rose directly in the soil. To do this, take a light soil based on turf soil, peat and sand. Of the purchased mixtures, any universal composition will do. The cuttings are planted in small pots, watered abundantly and covered with a jar or bag, creating the effect of a greenhouse.

The containers are transferred to a bright place, protected from direct sunlight, and kept at a temperature not lower than +23 degrees. The greenhouse can be removed as soon as the first young leaves appear. It takes 14 to 20 days for the seedling to root in the substrate.

Many gardeners practice spring rooting of cuttings directly in the garden bed. Prepared fragments of shoots are planted to a depth of 2 cm at a distance of at least 5 cm from each other. After planting, they must be covered with jars or a low film tunnel is made using arcs.

On a note! Roses are transplanted to a permanent location next spring.

Germinating roses in potatoes

Quite a popular method of propagation among experienced gardeners. This method successfully cuts not only roses, but also other types of decorative deciduous, flowering and even coniferous plants.

Using potatoes helps maintain a consistently moist environment that encourages root growth. In addition, starch and carbohydrates, which the tuber is rich in, are sources of nutrition for the young seedling.

The method consists of several main steps:

1. Before planting, dig a narrow trench 15-20 cm deep.
2. A layer of sand about 5 cm is poured onto the bottom.
3. Take medium-sized potatoes. All eyes must be cleaned and removed.
4. Cuttings are inserted into potatoes with a sharp cut inward.
5. The prepared material is laid out in a row at a distance of 15-20 cm from each other.
6. Cover the cuttings with soil, compact them and water them abundantly.
7. The resulting row is covered with film.

After 10-14 days, the roses are opened for ventilation for 20-30 minutes daily, after another week the film is completely removed.

Obtaining high-quality planting material using potato tubers is one of the most effective and simplest ways for those who still do not know how to propagate climbing roses by cuttings in the summer.

The lower edge of the cutting should be buried in the tuber to the height of the lower leaf petiole

Which method to choose

Thanks to the tireless work of breeders, many varieties of roses have appeared that are perfectly acclimatized even in the climate of the Moscow region and Siberia. There are two known types of climbing flowers - multi-flowered (producing simultaneously up to 20 buds with a diameter of up to 2.5 cm each) and large-flowered (with 10 buds, similar to hybrid tea varieties).

Climbing roses are most often propagated by cuttings, by budding, or by layering. Since a plant obtained from seeds cannot have parental characteristics, this method is used extremely rarely in practice. Next, we will consider each of the main methods in more detail.

Propagation by cuttings

Reproduction by this method is possible with subsequent rooting of the shoots both in soil or water, and in a bag or potato. In order to propagate beautiful climbing roses from cuttings in summer or spring, shoots should be prepared. In the spring, the middle part with 3 live buds is taken from the shoot. You need to make a cut at the bottom at an angle of 45°, and at the top at an angle of 90°. The top of the leaf is shortened by half its length or even more.

Rooting can be done in a container with boiled water. The cutting is placed in it and placed in a place where it is shaded from the sun. The water must be changed every other day. In about a month, the seedling will have grown roots and will be ready to be planted in a permanent place. A problem with such rooting can be rotting of the shoot due to lack of oxygen.

Rooting of the resulting cuttings is often carried out immediately in the ground. To prevent rotting, sand scalded with boiling water and having large fractions is used. The cuttings should be covered with a glass jar, white material should be placed on top, or the container should be painted with water-based emulsion of the same color. Rooting occurs at a temperature of +23…+25 °C and periodic ventilation of the “greenhouse”. In order to propagate a rose by cuttings planted in potatoes, one digs a trench more than 15 cm deep. Having first filled the bottom with sand, a shoot about 20 cm in size without foliage and thorns is placed there. The eyes are removed from the potato to prevent it from starting to grow. A piece of tin or the same glass jar can serve as a shelter. When using a plastic bag, the cuttings are first moistened with aloe juice. Placed in a pot and watered with warm water, they are wrapped in a bag and hung near the window.

Reproduction by budding

Knowing how to propagate a climbing rose from cuttings, you can try other methods. Budding, unlike cuttings, can be carried out by gardeners with extensive practical experience. The concept itself comes from the Latin word oculus, which means “eye”. The essence of the method is to increment the scion to the rootstock in the presence of dormant buds. Budding is most often used only for large-flowered varieties - such as roses of the Climber class, New Dawn and Metanoia species.

Reproduction by layering

Obtaining a new crop in summer or spring is also possible with the help of layering. It is necessary to use those shoots that grow at the root collar. At the beginning of March, they are placed in prepared shallow grooves by bending them down, then covered with loose soil on top. In this case, the upper parts of the shoots must be outside. In those places where they touch the ground, you need to make ring cuts in order to stimulate the flow of nutrients.

Although the root system of the cuttings is formed by autumn, their separation cannot be carried out before next spring, and in the case of weak plants this is done after a year. In the climate of our country, the tops of climbing roses inevitably die off if they are not covered with snow. In this regard, shoots that are planned to be used as layering in the spring must be bent to the soil and covered with soil.

How to propagate a climbing rose by layering

Good results can be achieved by propagating bushes by layering. With this method, seedling rooting and survival rate are 100%.

When is the best time to plant cuttings?

How to root a rose from a bouquet at home

The work is carried out in the spring, when the soil is sufficiently warmed up, but the plant has not yet begun to grow. The bush must be pruned and treated against pests and diseases. Shoots are chosen that are strong and at least one year old.

You can also achieve good results by burying the shoot in late autumn. Already in July it will be possible to observe the development of the young bush.

How to do it right

The entire process of propagating a climbing rose by layering looks like this:

1. It is necessary to dig a furrow 40 cm deep. In a separate container, mix compost, humus and garden soil taken in equal parts.
2. Fill the hole with the composition to 20-25 cm.
3. Take the lash horizontally into the furrow and press it firmly to the ground with pegs.
4. Cover the shoot with prepared fertile soil and water well.
5. The tip of the shoot should be secured with a garden clamp so that it does not rise up.
6. It is very important to ensure that the soil does not dry out, watering once every two days. Every day in summer.

Note! To speed up the rooting process, before burying the shoot, you should make small cuts in the bark next to the buds and sprinkle them with any rooting agent in powder form.

With regular watering and fertilizing, by the fall you will be able to see the germination of young plants, which indicates the formation of a powerful root system.

The plant is separated from the mother bush in late autumn, but it is better to do this in the spring. This way you can minimize the risk of freezing of a young, immature layer.

When propagating by layering, the lash must be cleared of foliage, leaving 5-7 leaves at the top of the shoot

Seedlings grown in this way will be able to bloom the next year. But experienced gardeners advise pruning, focusing on growing a powerful bush that can then rapidly develop and curl. The current year's buds are removed, resulting in abundant and long-lasting flowering of a stronger rose bush in the next season.

Cuttings

Propagating climbing roses by cuttings is the easiest and most effective way. It is better to do this in the summer or spring, when the young shoots have not yet become woody. The best option is young shoots of the current season, 0.7 cm thick.

Important! A woody cutting increases the survival time and reduces the rate of root formation.

Before you start planting, you need to cut the cuttings and prepare the soil for planting. The cuttings are cut 20–35 cm long. Each material should have several full-fledged buds. The lower cut is made below the kidney by 55 mm at an angle of 45 degrees, the upper cut is horizontally above the kidney by a centimeter. To prevent possible infection and reduce moisture evaporation, the upper cut is treated with wax or paraffin. Each cutting is left with two top leaves, cut in half.

Important! For 100% rooting, the cuttings are kept for several minutes in a solution of Kornevin or Epin.

Prepared cuttings are rooted in water or in nutritious, disinfected soil.

Reproduction by root suckers

How to propagate lavender from a bush using cuttings

Most types of roses can be propagated using this method, including climbing roses. Climbing bushes form underground shoots ending in powerful aboveground stems. The division is carried out as follows:

1. A rooted shoot emerging from the soil is identified.
2. Use a small shovel to lightly dig out the soil around the stem.
3. Carefully clean the soil and identify the presence of roots.
4. If the shoot has roots, the young plant is cut off with a sharp shovel, and the cut is sprinkled with wood ash.
5. The shoot is transplanted to a permanent place or for growing.

If roots are not found, then this process can be accelerated by adding phosphorus-containing preparations that promote root formation. You can also use any types of rooting agents containing phytohormones and auxins.

Taking cuttings: when and how to cut shoots correctly

If you wish, you can try to grow a rose from a cutting, even from unpresentable branches. For example, those that broke off under the weight of snow or remained after trimming a bush. However, to obtain the most favorable results, it is recommended to adhere to certain rules:

• Season. Experienced flower growers advise cutting shoots during the period from the formation of buds to the end of flowering, i.e. from early summer to mid-autumn. By this time, the wood will have accumulated enough nutrients, but in general, you can start rooting in early spring.
• Maturity stage. A suitable cutting is considered to be a small straight section of an adult semi-lignified (this year) green stem with 2–5 fully formed axillary buds.
• Escape size. The length should be from 15 to 30 cm, thickness - from 5 to 10 mm.
• Work tool. A special garden pruner or a household knife with a very sharp blade will do (the main thing is to make sure that it accurately separates the trunk and does not flatten or “shag” it). It is advisable to disinfect the instrument with alcohol or boiling water.
• Place of cut. For cuttings, the middle or lower part of the stem is used (the top takes root very poorly). The upper cut is made in a straight line between the buds 2–6 mm above one of them, and the lower cut is made obliquely, at an angle of 45° directly below the outermost bud.
• Material processing. At the base of the finished cuttings, you need to completely remove the thorns and leaves, and reduce their number by half on top.

You can complete the preparation of the stem by dipping the cut areas in a weak (light pink) solution of potassium permanganate for disinfection. To minimize moisture loss, seal the upper end with wax or paraffin, and place the lower end in a stimulating solution.

How to care for a rose after planting

Young roses require careful care not only during the rooting process.

Note! To get a powerful plant from a small cutting with roots, you have to work hard.

After planting the seedlings in a permanent place, you need to pay special attention to the following points:

• Maintaining the correct watering regime. Keep the soil moist, especially in the summer heat. Plants are given plenty of water in the evening.
• Protection from sun and wind. It is necessary to create a protective background from direct burning sunlight and drafts at least in the first two weeks after planting.
• Removing weeds. They not only “clog” the plant, stifling its growth, but also absorb nutrients from the soil.
• Fertilizing seedlings. As soon as the plant begins to grow, you can begin to fertilize it with mineral and organic fertilizers. The last time the drugs are applied is in August. Nitrogen preparations contribute to the rapid growth of green mass and the development of powerful vines. For abundant flowering, fertilizers with a high percentage of potassium are recommended.
• Loosening the soil. This will saturate the soil with oxygen, promoting the proper development of the root system.
• Providing protection against freezing. Rose bushes are planted high, bent to the ground, and covered with straw or spruce branches. You can also use peat and burlap. In the spring, when the temperature rises, the material is removed to avoid steaming the rose bushes.

A shelter made of breathable spunbond will help protect young rose bushes from freezing.

General recommendations for planting climbing roses:

• Heavy clay soils are absolutely not suitable for climbing roses.
• Before planting, ensure good drainage and water flow.
• A layer of mulch should be laid around the bush, which will retain moisture and prevent drying out.
• You should not plant roses in places where groundwater lies close.

For many gardeners, growing climbing roses becomes a lifelong hobby. The process brings a lot of pleasure, because a plant grown with your own hands is always more expensive than a purchased one. Despite possible difficulties during cultivation, every gardener can find his own home method of propagating the “queen of flowers,” leading to success.

Aftercare

After planting rooted cuttings in open ground, they require standard care: watering (as the top soil layer dries out), fertilizing, loosening the soil and removing weeds. When the bush grows, they begin to do formative pruning to give the crown a decorative appearance.

When choosing fertilizers for roses, consider the following factors:

• phosphorus is needed for abundant flowering;
• magnesium promotes chlorophyll synthesis;
• potassium is important for maintaining water balance in tissues;
• nitrogen stimulates the growth of green mass;
• calcium has a positive effect on the development of the root system.

Therefore, the complex is selected as rich as possible. Feed roses 2 times before flowering and the same amount after flowering. After watering and fertilizing, the root space should be mulched with peat or humus. In early spring, rose bushes are treated with contact-acting insecticidal preparations. For the winter, young plants are covered with leaves and other plant debris from the garden.

Additional Tips

In order for the propagation of climbing roses to be effective and for all young plants to take root, it is recommended to plant them in an area where there is sufficient sun. It is a sunny place and timely watering that will allow you to get a lush, fragrant rose when propagated by any of the listed methods.

By decorating your garden with a climbing rose, you can be sure that the flower corner will attract attention. After all, a rose of any kind will provide an unforgettable experience when you get to know it closely. The smell, beauty, and grace of this flower will create a special mood and add elegance and modernity to the entire garden.

Author of the article: Elena Ivanova

Writing articles on a variety of topics related to home, construction, gardening and improvement gives me pleasure, because it allows me to acquire new knowledge and skills. I will be glad to share useful information with readers, I will accept constructive criticism and additions that will allow me to provide the most detailed and complete information useful for everyone!