Rules for propagating cherry plum cuttings in summer and stages of growing a tree from a twig

Cherry plum is an unpretentious shrub that easily takes root in a new place. It is grown by generative and vegetative methods. Most gardeners prefer to propagate cherry plums from cuttings. In this case, the plants quickly take root, develop correctly and retain their maternal characteristics.

The best time to take tree cuttings is spring and autumn. However, some gardeners carry out such work in the summer. Let's consider the subtleties of propagating cherry plum cuttings in the summer.

Is it possible to cut cherry plums in summer?

Cherry plum can be cut from spring, before flowering, or in autumn, after harvest. These periods are considered the most favorable, as they are accompanied by comfortable weather for rooting. At this time, the plant requires minimal care.

If you follow the rules for preparing and rooting planting material, as well as with subsequent proper care, the plant quickly takes root in the warm season. In this case, it will get stronger before frost and will easily survive the winter.

Advantages of summer cuttings of cherry plum:

1. In summer, sap flow ends, so the plant is not injured when cutting branches. At the same time, the shoots already have time to wake up and begin to grow. They take root faster than those cut in the spring.
2. Warm weather promotes intensive growth and root formation. There is no need to create special conditions for the seedlings; they will quickly take root in the open ground.
3. The plants will have enough time to get stronger. They are less likely to die due to winter frosts than when planted in the fall.
4. In summer, unlike spring, even a novice gardener will be able to see which shoots survived the winter and which froze.

Summer cuttings also have disadvantages:

1. Hot, dry weather has a bad effect on the condition of seedlings. In order for them to take root, they will have to be protected from the scorching sun and watered frequently.
2. In summer, the survival rate of cuttings is lower than in spring.
3. Cuttings will have to be rooted immediately after cutting. In spring and autumn, this procedure can be postponed.

When planting in summer, it is important to carry out work when the sun is least active. This is done on cloudy days, in the morning or evening.

What can be grafted onto cherry plum

Cherry plum, as a rootstock, is most often used for plums, apricots, and cherries. This is due to the prevalence of cultures. The rootstock in the form of cherry plum ensures a high survival rate and allows you to obtain high yields. The same plants can also be grafted onto plum trees. A special feature of the vaccine is the absence of growth. This speaks volumes about the compatibility of the cultures being grafted. For rootstock, experts recommend using semi-wild varieties of cherry plum. But if there are none, a hybrid will also work. For example, an apricot cutting grown on cherry plum acquires high frost resistance and develops much more rapidly. Accordingly, it is possible to get a harvest from it earlier.

Cherry plum grafting is popular because it has a number of advantages:

• The graft takes root well: the success rate is more than 90%;
• Excellent productivity in the future;
• Fruiting of the grafted cuttings occurs earlier;
• Improving the taste of fruits.

Optimal timing for summer cuttings

In order for the cuttings to quickly take root and have time to take root, it is important to choose the right timing for cuttings. Then, when cutting the planting material, the mother plant will not be harmed.

Cuttings of fruit trees are carried out after they have flowered. Green planting material is cut in June or July. It is recommended to take lignified cuttings and layering in August.

Cherry plum cuttings are possible from June to August. The main thing is that by the time the planting material is harvested, the plant has completed flowering.

Important! Vegetative parts cannot be harvested during the flowering period. Such cuttings will not take root, and the yield of the mother plant will decrease.

In summer, cuttings are carried out in the morning or evening, when the sun is not active. If possible, the procedure is transferred to cloudy but dry days.

Favorable days

Agronomists are still arguing whether it is important to take into account the lunar calendar when carrying out gardening work. Most gardeners are confident that the lunar day affects the growth and survival rate of plants.

In July 2022, cuttings and rooting are best carried out on the 14th and 15th (Taurus phase, waning Moon), 23rd and 24th (Virgo phase, waxing Moon).

What can be grafted onto cherry plum

For cherry plum grafting, plum rootstock is the best option. Plum is frost-resistant and hardy in dry weather. Cherry plum is also perfect. Moreover, you can use not only wild plants, but also hybrid ones. Grafting plants is an activity that even an inexperienced summer resident can do. For some reason, many gardeners are afraid of technology, refusing to grow heat-loving crops. But it's worth a try. It may not work out the first time, but it will definitely be a huge success.

Sources:

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Suitable cherry plum varieties

Cherry plum, unlike plum, is easily propagated by cuttings. Green planting material takes root regardless of the variety. Lignified cuttings are more difficult to root; this method is not suitable for all plants.

Hybrids take root the worst. The list contains plants that easily take root in Russian conditions:

1. Gold autumn. A productive self-sterile variety. Each year it produces bright yellow fruits weighing 15–20 g, which ripen in the second half of August. The fruits hang and do not fall until the end of October. The flowers can withstand frosts down to -7°C.
2. Kuban comet. A self-fertile plant that produces large red fruits weighing up to 29 g. Tasting score: 4.4–4.6 points. Frost resistance and yield indicators are high; 10–50 kg of fruits are harvested from 1 tree.
3. Nectarine aromatic . Self-fertile plant with large dark burgundy fruits weighing up to 52 g. The pulp is juicy, with the taste and aroma of nectarine, the juice is thick. Winter hardiness is high.
4. Traveler. Self-sterile cherry plum. The fruits are red on the outside, orange on the inside. Banana taste. The tree has high resistance to diseases and winter frosts.
5. Apricot. Self-fertile variety. The pinkish-orange fruit weighs about 26 g and tastes like an apricot. Increased frost resistance (up to -35°C).

Rootstock selection

For the success of the event, it is necessary to choose the right rootstock. It can become a healthy tree at the age of 5 years. During this period, the trunk has the required thickness of 0.12 m. If the rootstock has not reached the required thickness, grafting should be postponed until next year. It is worth remembering that the older the plant is, the worse it is suitable for manipulation. Cherry plum can act as a rootstock for any stone fruit trees. The plum tree takes root well. This is the combination that is used most often. In addition, the experiments of breeders have proven that plants grafted onto their own variety feel great. That is, cherry plum for cherry plum, apricot for apricot. This technique makes it possible to reduce crop incompatibility to almost a minimum, and the cutting itself takes root much faster and less painfully. How to graft hybrid cherry plum onto wild cherry plum? Is it possible to use a varietal plant as a rootstock? Yes, grafting can be carried out on any variety, hybrid or wild plant. It is important that it be strong, resilient and healthy.

It is also possible to graft cherry plum onto plum. For such purposes, a plant that grows well in the region and is resistant to frost in winter is suitable. Drought resistant. A correctly selected rootstock will be the key to successful cultivation of stone fruit plants in the future.

Selection and preparation of cuttings

Before growing cherry plum from a branch, it is important to choose the right planting material. You can root green cuttings, woody branches, root shoots and air layering.

Greens

One of the most common propagation methods involves the use of green, semi-lignified cuttings. Such shoots are not herbaceous, quite strong and elastic, but still very flexible, since they have not yet become lignified.

These are branches of the current year that have a reddish area at the base and a bright green tint along the entire length. They quickly take root and begin to grow. The chances that such planting material will take root are high.

For propagation, trees are chosen that bear fruit abundantly and tolerate drought and winter frosts well. It is important that the plant does not have damage, formations on the bark, spots on the leaves and other signs of damage by diseases and pests.

Harvesting green cuttings lasts from June 10 to the end of July. The procedure is carried out when the sun is not active.

Instructions for preparing green planting material:

1. A day before cutting, the mother plant is watered abundantly (at least 3 buckets of water are used per tree). It is advisable to add a growth stimulator.
2. In non-sunny weather, cut green branches 25–30 cm long and no smaller in diameter than a pencil. After being separated from the mother plant, they are placed in a container with clean water.
3. The branches are cut so that each segment has 2-3 leaves at the top and a 3 cm long stem under the leaves. The upper cut is made even, 0.5 cm away from the bud, and the lower cut at an angle of 45°.
4. The cuttings are soaked for half an hour in a light pink solution of potassium permanganate, then placed for a day in a root formation stimulator (“Heteroauxin” or “Kornevin”).

Green cuttings will take root within 2–4 weeks if favorable conditions are created. On average, about 60% of the collected planting material takes root.

Numb

Propagation by woody branches is not as effective as by green cuttings. Use annual shoots that have already become covered with bark of the appropriate shade. There should be no damage, cracks, stains or other formations on them.

It is best to harvest such cuttings after leaf fall, but this can also be done in the second half of August. It is recommended to harvest extra branches that would have to be cut anyway.

Cuttings 0.7–1.2 cm thick and 20–30 cm long are suitable. For rooting in a greenhouse, cuttings 5–10 cm long are suitable. The number of internodes should be at least 3.

Attention! Before cutting, it is important to make sure that the branch has not dried out. It should be flexible enough, and the surface under the bark of a living shoot should be moist.

When harvesting lignified cuttings, an oblique cut is made both from above and from below. The lower and central parts of the shoot are suitable for cuttings.

Air layering

Using air layering involves growing roots on a branch that is not separated from the tree. Work is carried out in May or early June.

How to propagate cherry plum by air layering:

1. They choose last year's branch. It should be straight, without branches, growths, damage, stains, or signs of damage by diseases and pests.
2. All shoots are removed from the branch so that there are no stumps left on it.
3. In the central part, closer to the base, a ring of bark is removed. To do this, use a sharp knife to make an incision in a circle to the depth of the upper layer of bark, step 1 cm away from it and make a second similar incision.
4. A solution of a root formation stimulator is applied to the resulting cut.
5. The branch is threaded into a plastic bag, breaking through the bottom. It is pulled over the shoot so that the lower edge is 10 cm below the ring of cut bark. The lower edge of the bag is tightly fixed with electrical tape.
6. Nutrient soil is poured into the bag so that it covers the cut ring. The soil is moistened with water at room temperature or a solution of a growth stimulator.
7. The bag is tied at both ends with electrical tape to make it look like a bag. Make several small holes.

After the roots appear, the upper part of the branch is cut in half. Remove the bag and separate the shoot from the mother plant immediately before planting.

There is another way to root a shoot - without separation from the mother plant. To do this, the shoot is bent to the ground, fixed with a bracket, and covered with soil. Water it as the soil dries out, periodically feed it, and weed it.

Root growth

Another method is propagation by root shoots. To do this, choose a shoot located at the maximum distance from the tree.

Attention! Only self-rooted plants are propagated by cuttings. If the mother tree was grafted onto a rootstock, the cherry plum grown from its branches may not retain its parental characteristics.

During the summer, the future seedling is fed, watered, hilled, and weeded. At the end of August, the cuttings are dug up, carefully separating the root system from the mother one.

Reproduction of cherry plum using grafting

The most popular and least troublesome method among gardeners is the method of propagating cherry plums using grafting - budding, improved copulation, winter grafting, etc. To carry out this procedure you will need:

• - rootstock - the plant on which the grafting will be carried out;
• - scion - cuttings of the grafted variety.

As a rootstock, cherry plum seedlings of winter-hardy varieties, apricot, common plum and felt cherry seedlings are usually used. In addition, very often grafting is performed on young trees - sloe, damson, felt cherry, and plum. It is important to note here that cherry plum, grafted onto seed rootstocks, bears fruit only for 3-4 years. For comparison: when grafting a 2-4 year old plum or sloe into the crown, the first harvest is usually obtained from the second year. On very mature trees, whose age exceeds 8 years, rejuvenating pruning is first carried out, and only the next year their strong top shoots are regrafted.

To grow seed stocks, seeds from fruits are used (the technology for their germination was discussed in detail above). Many gardeners consider cherry plum seedlings to be the best type of rootstock, since they take root well in heavy, waterlogged soils, have high anchorage and are compatible with the scion. However, such a rootstock is not without its disadvantages, such as the vigorous growth of the grafted trees, the abundant formation of shoots and strong thorniness.

Spring (April-May) and late summer (August) are considered favorable times for vaccinations. In the spring, plants are grafted in several basic ways (into a split, into a butt with a tongue and without a tongue, with a saddle and behind the bark with a saddle, etc.), in late summer - by budding. Some gardeners vaccinate with single-bud cuttings in winter.

Of all the existing methods of propagation of this crop by grafting, the simplest and most effective are considered to be summer budding, early spring “for the bark” and improved copulation, which is usually carried out in April.

Using improved copulation, rootstocks are grafted at a height of 10-30 cm from the ground surface. At the end of May, the bandage at the vaccination site is loosened, and in the last days of June it is finally removed.

Useful tips

Whatever cherry plum propagation method is used to obtain seedlings, for their further cultivation it is important to choose the warmest, windproof and sunny place in the garden or on the site. Having selected a suitable place, planting holes of 50x50x50 cm or 60x60x60 cm are dug for the young plants, which are filled with humus and turf soil in equal parts or a nutrient mixture consisting of 2 buckets of humus, 1 liter of ash, 0.5 buckets of dolomite flour, 1 cup of superphosphate and 1 cup potassium sulfate. The soil mixture is thoroughly mixed, after which the seedling is planted and watered abundantly.

In general, the propagation of cherry plums, including hybrid ones, is practically no different from the methods used in relation to ordinary plums, with the only difference being that they are more demanding of heat and very sensitive to frost. Having provided this grateful and generous southern culture with all the necessary conditions, it will soon be possible to delight yourself with excellent harvests, even if you have a small orchard.

Rooting methods

Green and woody cuttings require preliminary rooting. Typically gardeners use the following methods:

1. For green cuttings in a greenhouse. The soil for planting is mixed with peat, humus, and superphosphate. The cuttings are buried 3 cm so that the bottom leaf is above the ground. The soil is watered abundantly. A distance of 5 cm is maintained between the cuttings. When rooting in open ground, a frame is made of film arcs, onto which the film is pulled. The temperature during germination should be maintained within +25…+30°C. After a month (by this time the first roots have formed), the plantings are fed with mineral fertilizers. The soil is moistened as it dries. After the roots have formed, ventilation begins, gradually increasing their duration. For the winter, the seedlings are covered with peat or dry leaves.
2. For woody cuttings. They are soaked for a day in a growth stimulator. Shallow notches are made on the bark at the bottom of the branches. The cuttings are planted in moist nutrient soil so that the lower bud is underground. In the summer, the cuttings are watered and fed, and in the winter they are covered with fallen leaves or peat.
3. At home. The cuttings are stuck into a container filled with moist nutrient soil. Cover the top with a cut bottle or bag. As the soil dries, moisten it. A month after planting, the cuttings are fed. After the formation of the first roots, the plants begin to ventilate, gradually increasing the duration of the procedure.

Propagation of cherry plum by seeds (seeds)

The method involving growing cherry plum from seeds is considered more time-consuming. In addition to this drawback, it has a number of other specific disadvantages, the main one of which is the loss of varietal characteristics belonging to the plant whose fruits were used to obtain seeds. However, some experimental gardeners claim that, despite the loss of varietal characteristics, the yield and taste of fruits of individual specimens grown from seeds are often superior even to the mother plants. In particular, this is characteristic of the Globus cherry plum variety - when grown from seeds, trees with higher yields and earlier fruit ripening are usually obtained.

Most often, cherry plum seed propagation is used to grow seedlings, which are later used as rootstocks. To do this, the largest and ripest fruits are selected in advance, from which the seeds are extracted. Before winter, they are sown in boxes or on beds, keeping an interval between sowings of 4-6 cm, between rows - 18-20 cm. The crops are well watered and mulched with a 2-3 centimeter layer of peat or sawdust. If the seeds are sown in a garden bed, add additional snow on top of the mulch when winter arrives. During the winter season, the seeds undergo natural stratification and germinate safely by spring. The resulting seedlings can be grafted no earlier than a year later.

Landing

Summer cuttings are also planted in the fall, but it is better to do this next spring. In this case, the plant will not die in frost, but before the next winter it will have time to get stronger and get used to new conditions.

For cherry plums, choose a sunny place protected from the wind. It is important that groundwater is not located closer than 1.5 m to the surface. At least a month before planting the tree in a permanent place, the soil is prepared: it is cleared of weeds and plant debris, dug up, and watered with a hot solution of copper sulfate.

Dig a hole 50 cm deep and 70 cm wide. Drainage (gravel, expanded clay, small crushed stone) is poured onto the bottom. The excavated soil is mixed with potassium chloride, humus, superphosphate, ammonium nitrate, and river sand.

Part of the fertile soil is poured back into the hole. An earthen mound is formed in the center. The seedling is placed on a mound, distributing the roots evenly around the hill. A stick is stuck nearby to serve as a support. For reliability, a plant is tied to it.

The hole is covered with earth and compacted. The plant is watered with 2-3 buckets of water. The root collar should be 5 cm above the ground. The tree trunk circle is mulched with hay, straw, peat or humus. This will protect the plant from diseases, pests, cold weather, and weeds.

Sprouting a seed

This is one of the most popular methods among summer residents; it does not require much effort or additional funds. For propagation, you need to choose the largest fruits that have a good appearance; it can be an overripe cherry plum that fell to the ground.

• carefully remove the seed from the pulp;
• seeds taken from the inside must be washed and dried;
• The landing site should be well lit and windless;
• Planting is best done in the fall - place the seeds in special containers or plant directly in fertile soil;
• the distance between the seeds should not exceed 5 cm, between the rows - 20 cm;
• water the seeds generously;
• you need to mulch - apply 2 cm of peat or sawdust on top;
• if the seeds are planted directly in the soil, then you need to protect the plantings from rodents and insects using fences;
• Before the onset of severe frosts, snow can be poured on top of the plantings.

If the entire procedure is carried out exactly, then in the spring the seeds will certainly sprout; before this, you should carefully loosen the soil. If the result is positive, the resulting cherry plum seedlings are often used as rootstocks. The plant should be replanted to a permanent location only after a year, when it is well rooted.

Gardeners who decide to propagate cherry plum seeds need to be aware of the loss of typical characteristics of the variety by new plants: the fruits decrease in size and their taste changes. You will also have to spend a lot of time growing. But there is also a positive point: for certain varieties, including cherry plum Globus, the yield increases significantly.

Features of cuttings depending on the type of cherry plum and region

Cherry plum takes root and takes root in a new place much easier than plum. Difficulties usually arise only with hybrids.

Advice! If, after several attempts, seedlings of a certain variety do not take root, it is propagated by grafting. Typically, a cultivated scion is grafted onto a wild (grown from a seed) rootstock. Such a plant will be the strongest and most resilient.

There are slow-rooting and fast-rooting varieties. While the former need about 2 weeks to form adventitious roots, the latter require at least a month.

Varieties are chosen taking into account the climate of the region. For areas with warm weather, all options are suitable, but preference is given to cherry plums with resistance to heat and drought. For the northern and central regions, early-ripening plants with high frost resistance are optimal.

How to graft cherry plum onto cherry plum

Cherry plum has a unique taste, aroma and vitamins. At the same time, this tree is widely used as a scion - the basis for growing relatives. Moreover, by grafting onto cherry plum, the tender tree becomes resistant to frost and adverse weather conditions. How to plant cherry plum interests many inexperienced summer residents. It is not difficult to perform the manipulation, following the advice of professional breeders:

• Use only healthy plants in your work;
• The tool must be clean and very sharp;
• Strictly adhere to the technique.

It may not be possible to complete everything the first time, but you shouldn’t stop there. The cherry plum graft usually takes root very well and quickly.

Further care

In order for the cherry plum to take root, develop and bear fruit, it is important to properly care for it:

1. In dry summers, young plants need watering at least 2 times a month. 2-3 buckets of water at room temperature are poured under 1 tree.
2. To destroy the earthen crust and normalize air exchange, the soil is loosened the next day after each watering and precipitation. Weeds must be removed from the tree trunks of young plants.
3. The first 3 years after planting, cherry plum does not need to be fed. Then fertilizers are applied 2–4 times a year, alternating mineral and organic compounds.
4. In the first year, the cherry plum is not pruned, then the crown begins to form. Every year, in autumn or spring, sanitary pruning is carried out, removing damaged, weak, dry branches and root shoots.
5. In order for the tree to easily survive the winter, the soil in the tree trunk circle is mulched. To protect the plant from diseases and pests, it is recommended to carry out this procedure in the summer. In autumn, the tree trunk circle is cleared of leaves and plant debris.
6. To reduce the risk of cherry plum infection by diseases and pests, in the spring, before flowering, and in the fall, after fruiting, the tree is sprayed with a solution of copper sulfate.

Overgrowth

This is the simplest propagation method. There are 2 options for preparing shoots.

1. At the beginning of spring, at a distance of 15 cm from the mother plant, you need to cut off the shoot. The cut must be immediately treated with garden varnish. A strong shoot is immediately planted in a separate place. And the weak ones need growing and constant care.
2. In early autumn, the mother root must be cut off on one side by about 15 cm, sprinkle the area with earth and leave for a year. During this time, the roots will appear. After 12 months, you need to cut off the mother root from the opposite side, and plant the plant in a separate place.

Advice from experienced gardeners

There are several secrets that will make caring for cherry plum easier and increase the chances that it will take root after planting:

1. It is not recommended to root cherry plum cuttings in water: in such conditions they do not take root well and often rot.
2. Many gardeners argue that it is not necessary to make cuts on planting material at an angle.
3. Before cuttings, the mother tree is watered abundantly, but not fed.
4. If it is not possible to start rooting the cuttings immediately after cutting, they are wrapped in damp material and placed in a cool place. In this form they are stored for up to 2 weeks.
5. Before use, the pruning shears must be wiped with alcohol or a dark pink solution of potassium permanganate for disinfection.

Description of the plant

Over the past 50-70 years, the situation with cherry plum has improved significantly thanks to the work of breeders.

Larger-fruited and early-ripening varieties were obtained , in many varieties it was possible to achieve a significant reduction in sourness in taste, the time of fruiting also changed - many early-ripening varieties appeared (wild cherry plum, like sloe, have late ripening periods).

The varietal diversity of cherry plum is enormous. There is an opinion that from no less than apple trees. Among the varieties there are trees of all shapes, sizes, pollination methods and ripening periods. Large selection and properties of fruits: from bitter-sour to sugary-sweet; from the size of a pea to giants resembling a medium-sized apple.

Caring for cherry plum is much simpler and less expensive than caring for plums. At all stages of life, the plant causes minimal trouble to the owner, although there are special issues that can take more than one day to resolve.

Cherry plum flowers

One of the main problems of cherry plum is the self-sterility of many of its varieties. Therefore, the correct selection of pollinators is an important task and should be decided at the garden planning stage.

Cherry plum is a plant of the Rosaceae family. It has multi-stemmed trees, in rare cases it appears as a bush or trunk. The shoots are relatively thin, their color is brown-green. The height of trees can vary from 1.5 to 10 m.

The leaves of the cherry plum have an elongated oval shape, with a slight point at the top. The size of the leaves depends on the plant variety, but they rarely exceed 10 cm in length and 8 cm in width.

The flowers of the plant are white, but some hybrids often have pinkish or yellowish hues. Flowering time is earlier: the earliest ripening varieties begin to bloom in the third decade of March. Despite the fact that the plant is mainly wind pollinated, late-flowering varieties can act as honey plants. The ovaries are moderately resistant to return frosts.

The fruits of the cherry plum are round or slightly elongated berries (drupes); sometimes species with flattened fruits are observed. When ripe they are juicy and relatively soft. The color of cherry plum fruits can vary greatly.

There are red, dark red, yellow, pink, purple and even black shades of flesh . In rare cases, the skin and flesh have different colors. The average fruit size is about 3 cm in diameter. In most varieties, the stone is difficult to separate from the pulp.

Kuban comet is one of the large-fruited varieties, the weight of its fruit reaches 50 g

The skin is almost always covered with a waxy coating, and the fruit has a longitudinal stripe extending from the petiole. The crop yield can reach fantastic values. Cases of harvesting more than 300 kg from one plant have been recorded. Cherry plum trees begin to bear fruit at the age of 3, and stable yields are obtained starting from 5-6 years. Early fruiting and hybrid varieties bear fruit consistently, starting from 3-4 years.

The fruits contain up to 14% sugars and 7% organic acids. The high concentration of sugars makes cherry plum a nutritious crop. The highest concentrations of cherry plum nutrients are citric and ascorbic acids, pectin and carotene. Cherry plum is rich in vitamins E, B and A.

Sweet or sour-sweet fruits in most crops have universal use - they can be used raw and processed, as well as extract juice from them and make preserves (jams, jams, sauces, compotes, etc.) Oil is obtained from cherry plum seeds , close in quality to almond.

The growing area of ​​cherry plum fruit trees (both domesticated and wild) is very extensive. The plant can be found in the Balkans, Central Asia, Transcaucasia, Moldova, and Ukraine. In Russia, cherry plum has long been cultivated by gardeners in the Krasnodar Territory, Rostov, Belgorod, Smolensk regions, Moscow region, etc. The spread to the north is limited not so much by the frost resistance of the crop as by the desire to increase the proportion of vegetables and shrubs in plantings compared to trees.

Ways to get rid of root growth

If the tree does not sprout, you can use other propagation methods.

Selected plum pits need to be washed and dried.

From the seed you can grow a good rootstock, onto which varietal cuttings will be grafted.

Technology for growing plums from seeds:

1. Planting material should be stratified. To do this, the bones are placed in a container with wet sawdust or sand and stored in the basement (for the whole winter). The temperature should be between 1 and -8–10 ºC.
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   Stratification can also be carried out under a thick layer of snow by packing the seeds in foam bowls.

2. In spring, the seeds are transplanted into the ground.

   The seeds are planted in a shallow trench.

3. After one year of cultivation, seedlings can be used as rootstocks.

   Seedlings grown in this way are considered well adapted to local growing conditions.

1. Choose a healthy shoot and cut the bark at a height of 20 cm from the top.

   Reproduction technique by air layering.

2. A lump of damp sphagnum is attached around the cut.
3. The top is wrapped in dark film and secured.
4. After the roots appear, and they grow very quickly in warm weather, the cuttings are cut off and planted in the ground together with the substrate.

Cuttings

Lignified cuttings are harvested during the dormant period, but before the onset of severe frosts. You can trim the branches in November-December or early spring, before the buds swell. A year before, the tree is pruned, after which shoots appear on it that can take root.

Green cuttings are cut in the summer, around mid-July.

At the bottom, the cuttings are cut off at the point where the green bark transitions to woody bark.

One-year shoots with a diameter of about 0.8 cm and a length of at least 40–50 cm are chosen as cuttings.

To store lignified cuttings, a temperature within -2 ºC to -4 ºC is required. The cuttings are dropped into a box with wet sawdust and taken outside; after freezing, they are covered with dry sawdust, covered with film and taken to a cool place. The cuttings are stored in this state until grafting.

Cuttings can be stored in the refrigerator until spring. This method is only suitable if there is little planting material. The cuttings are wrapped in a bag and tied, a second bag is put on top and also tied with a rope. Cuttings cannot be sent to the freezer. It's too cold there and the seedlings may freeze.

1. When the cuttings are taken out of the refrigerator, it is necessary to update the sections and soak them in water for 2-3 days. The cuttings should be kept in a cool place until grafting.

   It is better to soak cuttings in a solution of a root formation stimulator.

2. To root green cuttings, they are planted to a depth of 3–4 cm, the outermost leaf should be above the surface of the ground. To cover the seedlings, a frame is built and covered with film. Under cover the temperature must be at least 25 °C. The cuttings are watered 2 times a day. Roots appear after about 14 days, in hard-to-root varieties - after 4 weeks. After this, the seedlings should be opened during the daytime for hardening. After a month, you can make the first fertilizing with mineral compounds and thoroughly water the cuttings.

   Cuttings need to be planted in fertile and moisture-absorbing soil.

3. So that the seedlings can overwinter in the garden beds, in the fall the beds are covered with a thick layer of peat.

Read more: How to graft cherries onto cherries in the summer; is it possible to use green cuttings?

Plum trees can be propagated using various methods. Having chosen a method, you need to familiarize yourself with the features and adhere to the above recommendations.

The main factors contributing to the emergence of overgrowth can be identified:

• the tree trunk is planted too high;
• during grafting, most of the branches of the rootstock were removed;
• incompatibility of rootstock and scion;
• mechanical damage to the trunk;
• lack of preparation for winter or poor quality of its implementation.

When caring for a plum tree, one of the most important steps is removing the root shoots. It refers to shoots that appear from adventitious buds, usually 4-5 years after planting. One of the main reasons for its occurrence is violations of the planting process.

One proven method is pruning. It needs to be carried out thoroughly: find the roots of the shoots and cut off the shoots along with them.

Constructing obstacles from scrap materials is a surefire way to remove unwanted vegetation. First, you should draw a circle with a diameter of half a meter near the trunk. Then the soil in it must be watered and leveled. You can fill the hole with a variety of materials:

• metal;
• plastic;
• rubber.

The materials must have a dense structure and be relatively heavy. From above, all this should be covered with film or fabric material. There will be no harmful grass in this space.

Another option for destroying root growth is chemical, but it has its drawbacks. Despite the rapid action, the substances can harm the plum. They must be used taking precautions and avoiding contact with the leaves. One of the best products is the Roundup spray.

Overgrowth prevents the tree from fully developing

Thorn on the site: pros and cons

Thorn is a very controversial plant. There are summer residents who would never agree to have this thorny bush on their property. There are several reasons for such dislike:

• Thorns. Sharp thorn needles can cause injury. This is especially true in families with small children.
• Fruit. Both their size and taste are not very attractive to summer residents. Small - only 12 mm - drupes have a sour taste. Another drawback is their strong astringency.
• Collection. Harvesting is not easy. Dense bushes and branches covered with thorns make this work extremely difficult.

However, we must give the blackthorn its due: it also has many advantages.

• Unpretentiousness. Sloes can grow anywhere and in any conditions. He is not afraid of frost, drought, or infertile soils.
• Harvest. The absolute unpretentiousness of the bush allows you to get a large harvest every year, regardless of weather conditions.
• Hedge. Sloe bushes can be used to make hedges because they tolerate pruning easily and recover quickly from it.
• Protection. Thanks to its thorns, the blackthorn becomes an excellent protector and protects the area from uninvited guests.

Is it possible to grow an apple tree from a seed and will it bear fruit?

It would seem that varietal seedlings are not so expensive to try to grow apple trees yourself. Attempts to grow an apple tree from a seed are explained by the gardener’s desire to reproduce one of his favorite varieties (especially if the variety is rare), the intention to have his own rootstocks for grafting, the desire to save on the purchase of seedlings, or simply the excitement of sports “what if it works out?”

It is quite possible to get a tree from a seed, despite some difficulties with germination (germination at home takes up to 3 months). However, it should be borne in mind that the probability of obtaining both a tree with the properties of the mother apple tree and an inedible wild game is approximately the same. It is impossible to know in advance what will grow, and you will be able to taste the fruits of your labors no sooner than in 6–7, or even 10–12 years.

Seedling apple trees - video

If you still manage to grow an apple tree with tasty fruits, it may turn out to be tall and not very convenient for pruning and harvesting (unlike store-bought seedlings grafted onto low-growing rootstocks). But this is not a rule at all: sometimes seedlings turn out to be semi-dwarfs and dwarfs.

If you receive a tree that is unsuccessful in terms of fruit, you should not be upset - you can graft a varietal cutting onto a young apple tree. In general, the use of rootstocks grown from seeds allows one to obtain more winter-hardy, hardy plants with a long lifespan. It is because of these qualities that apple seedlings are used by breeders.

Some apple seedlings are so good that they are presented as new varieties, for example, Seyanets Titovki, Seyanets Kravchenko, Seyanets Pudovshchina, Seyanets Solntsedara.

Varieties that spontaneously appeared from seedlings are shown in the photo

For teaching healthy, vigorous seedlings, the following are best suited: wood apple tree, as well as the varieties Pepin saffron, Brown striped, and Chinese. Antonovka's syangs often repeat the properties of the parent variety.

Tips for propagating from cuttings

Today there are three effective ways to propagate plum trees:

• cuttings;
• layering;
• root shoots.

However, some gardeners try to grow a tree from a seed. It is worth noting that this method of germination is used extremely rarely, since it does not allow obtaining varietal plums. From the seed you can grow a tree, which will serve as a good basis for grafting.

Therefore, experienced gardeners advise using one of three methods for propagating plums. Moreover, for success in each case, you need to adhere to your deadlines and techniques. Otherwise, you may not get a new tree.

“Russian plum” has a number of qualities for which this tree has become a favorite among gardeners:

• cherry plum varieties have different ripening periods: some delight with yellow fruits already at the beginning of summer, others ripen with the onset of the first frost;
• any variety has a high yield, the fruits are aromatic, smell like cherries, nuts, grapes and even peaches;
• cherry plum can be collected slightly unripe for transportation: the fruits will ripen;
• bees, collecting nectar from cherry plum flowers, produce almost twice as much honey;
• the plant is unpretentious to growing conditions;
• can bear fruit for several decades.

There is a widespread opinion on gardening forums that propagating cherry plums from seeds is the easiest way that a person who wants bright cherry plum fruits to decorate his garden can use. You need to start by preparing the site:

• choose an area illuminated by the sun, the width and length of which are 1 meter each;
• dig up the soil;
• mix half a bucket of humus (fresh manure is not suitable for this purpose) with a glass of wood ash (calculation is based on a square world area);
• cherry plum fruits must be taken at the moment of ripening, differing in color and color, remove the seeds, wash them and dry them indoors;
• after this, the seeds can be placed in the soil to a depth of 5-7 centimeters;
• To enhance the contact of seeds with the ground, the soil should be leveled and pressed down.

Cherry plum does not germinate immediately, but only after a year - in the spring. Small sprouts with two light leaves appear. Near the ground itself, the stem has a lighter color - this is the root collar. After some time, a new shoot appears between the leaves - the future tree, but more than one year will pass before it can be replanted. The gardener will have to be patient and care for the seedling. The reward will be bright, juicy cherry plum fruits.

Plum rootstock. Plum rootstocks

The type of rootstock is important. They are either seed or clonal (vegetatively propagated). The vigor of growth, productivity, quality of fruits, and longevity of the plantings depend on the rootstock in almost everything. The rootstocks must be perfectly adapted to the soil and climatic conditions of the area, i.e., have sufficient winter and drought resistance, unpretentiousness to soil conditions (overmoistening, excess lime), resistance to diseases, and good compatibility with grafted varieties. In addition, seed rootstocks must have the highest seed productivity, good germination of seeds, even growth of seedlings, clonal rootstocks must have the ability to reproduce by shoots, greenish or lignified cuttings.

To feed seed rootstocks in central Russia, the varieties “Skorospelka red”, “Tulskaya black”, “Hungarian Moskovskaya”, “Nikolskaya white”, “Renklod kolkhozny”, as well as local forms of damsons are used.

In the Middle Volga region and in the Volga-Vyatka region, damsons and large-fruited sloe are grown as seed rootstocks. They have high winter hardiness, are unpretentious to soils, and are salt-tolerant. Trees grafted onto them have restrained growth, begin bearing fruit early, and are characterized by the highest productivity and durability. The disadvantage of sloe is the undergrowth of the bark near the root neck, the formation of a huge amount of shoots in the garden, in the nursery - short-term separation of the bark during budding, weak growth and a small yield of seedlings. Therefore, it is better to use domestic plum seedlings as a rootstock.

In the southern regions of the Russian Federation (Krasnodar, Stavropol Territories, Rostov Region, etc.) in most cases, wild cherry plum is used as a seed rootstock. Its seedlings are quite comparable with most types of plum and cherry plum and provide the highest yield of grafted species. The introduction of cherry plum as a rootstock in the more northern regions of the country (in the Non-Black Earth Region) is risky due to its unreliable winter hardiness.

From time to time, felt cherry seedlings are used as plum seed rootstock. The varieties grafted on it have a restrained growth, begin to bear fruit early, bear fruit well, but the trees are the least durable compared to seed rootstocks. The rootstock VVA-1 (a hybrid of felt cherry with cherry plum), bred at the Crimean experimental selection station VNIIR (Krymsk, Krasnodar Territory), is more perfect. It simply bears fruit from greenish and woody cuttings and is compatible with many plum varieties. The varieties grafted on it begin to bear fruit early, have moderate growth, and produce huge yields of the highest quality.

In the southern regions of the Russian Federation, excellent results were obtained using subsequent clonal rootstocks selected by the Crimean OSS VIR: “Alab-1”, “VSV-1”, “Spring Flame”, “Friendship”, “Green Column”, “Kuban 2”.

In the middle zone, own-rooted plum varieties “Skorospelka Krasnaya”, “Vengerka Moskovskaya”, “Tula Chernaya”, which produce root shoots, can be used as vegetatively propagated rootstocks.

The varieties “Skorospelka red” and “Eurasia 43” simply reproduce with greenish cuttings (in the presence of fog-forming installations). By partially regrafting some of the side branches of 2-3 year old seedlings on one plant, you can have 2-3 varieties that perfectly pollinate each other.

Excellent results were shown by the clonal rootstock SVG 11-19 (sand cherry x Ussuri plum), bred at the VNIIS Siberia named after. M.A. Lisavenko. It has the highest winter hardiness and good compatibility with domestic and Ussuri plum varieties.

Beneficial and harmful properties of nectarine

I became interested in learning about the beneficial properties of nectarine. I was going to grow it, but I didn’t know if there was any point in it. After “research” I came to the conclusion that there is still a meaning, and a significant one. As it turns out, the fruit has many beneficial properties. Now I’ll tell you more about them:

• With regular use, it removes excess moisture from the body and improves blood composition. Affects the functioning of the heart muscle (improves its activity). Clears blood vessels of cholesterol.
• Has a positive effect on the digestive system. Promotes rapid digestion of fats
  . Very relevant, since there is enough of this component on our tables.
• Pectins, which are part of the fruit, neutralize and destroy pathogenic bacteria.
• It is recommended to consume one hour before or after meals. This measure promotes the secretion of gastric juice, and this prevents the appearance of excess weight and heaviness in the stomach.
• Cleanses the body of waste and toxins.
• Nectarine also contains vitamin C. It improves the functioning of the immune system.
• Dietary fiber affects the functioning of the gastrointestinal tract. Or rather, they clean the tract.
• Regular consumption normalizes metabolism, resulting in weight loss.
• And all this also affects the condition of the skin. It becomes elastic, elastic, and acquires a more even shade.
• Nectarine is used for anemia, as it increases hemoglobin levels and is involved in hematopoiesis.

Nectarine is harmful only if consumed in excess. But it is best to take into account the contraindications. These include the following:

• Diabetes. Nectarines contain a large amount of natural sugars, which can raise blood sugar levels.
• Individual intolerance to the fruit.
• Allergic reaction.

In other cases, eat for your health. There will definitely be no harm.

Other fruit trees are no less useful. For example, read how to grow a pear from a seed on a window. I recently wrote about this.

Fruits for consumption must only be of good quality, without flaws

Preparing mango seeds for planting

To prepare a mango seed for planting, you will need the following:

• ripe fruit;
• dull knife;
• paper towel;
• plastic bag with zip fastener;
• plastic container with lid.

Step-by-step master class on preparing mango pits for planting

Select the fruit; it should be ripe, of the correct shape, without wormholes or damage. Then cut off the pulp, scrape off its remains from the shell flaps and rinse the seed with water.

Place the seed in a sunny place where it should dry for 1–2 days

Turn it over when one side is dry.

Using a dull knife, carefully open the seed from the round tip, being careful not to damage the seed. Break the shell with your hands.

Remove the bean or bean-like seed from the shell

There is no need to remove the skin from it.

Wrap the mango seed in a piece of paper towel and lightly dampen it. The material should not be too wet. Otherwise, the seed will simply rot.

Place the wrapped seed in a zip-top plastic bag and seal tightly, then place inside a plastic food container. It will become your portable mini-greenhouse.

Remove the container with the seed to any dark place. Check the seed daily to ensure it remains moist but not wet.

How to plant a mango from a seed

Mangoes will be less hassle if you choose the right planting time. It is best to do this in the summer, since for normal development the plant needs 14-16 hours of daylight, which means that in winter it will require an additional source of lighting. The plant is also demanding of heat: the temperature that suits it is +20...+26°C.

Procedure:

A seed that has just been removed from the fruit is taken (this increases the chances of viable sprouts appearing) and washed under running water. The presence of a crack in the shell allows you to use a knife and without much effort to extract the seed, which resembles a bean. It is placed in a jar of water (the temperature should be room temperature). If the shell is solid, do not try to open it at any cost - there is a risk of damaging the contents. The seed is simply placed in water for a few days, where the shell will become soft and eventually open.

Water with planting material is changed every other day. After 0.5 months or a little later, the mango begins to develop roots, which means it’s time for planting. Before planting, the seed must be treated with some kind of fungicide.

A layer of drainage material is poured into the pot, then soil (the container should be 2/3 full) and watered.

The seed is planted horizontally if it has already sprouted. When there is no sprout, the seed is placed sideways

It is important that ¼ of it remains uncovered with soil.

The soil is watered. Add some soil if it has settled as a result of watering. The pot is covered with film or a mini-greenhouse made from a plastic bottle cut with scissors is installed over the future plant. The shelter can be removed in about 0.5 - 1 month, when sprouts appear.

Layering propagation

This method is simpler. It does not require continuous monitoring of propagated plants. With its help, you can quickly and successfully root your favorite varieties. Layers are formed in the spring, and in the fall a ready-made, full-fledged plant with a formed root system is obtained.

Reproduction by air layering

At a distance of 15-20 cm from the top of last year’s shoot, cut off a ring of bark or cut it to reach the wood. After this, they take the moistened sphagnum and make a lump out of it, which is placed on the cut and fixed with black plastic film. In warm weather, roots form very quickly. The cuttings are cut off together with the formed root system from the mother plant and moved to another place with an earthen substrate.

Important! If the region has favorable weather conditions, propagation by layering can be carried out at the end of August. In this case, semi-lignified growths that appeared this year are used. The procedure is almost completely similar to that carried out in the spring, only in this case it is also necessary to remove all the foliage at a distance of 20-30 cm from the top of the shoot. The plum root system is formed only in the next season.

There is another variation of this method, how to take a seedling from a plum tree. A flexible shoot is found from a low plum plant and carefully bent to the ground. At the point of contact of the stem with the ground, dig a narrow groove 10-20 cm deep and place the shoot there, previously treated with a root formation stimulator.

Reproduction by horizontal layering

To better retain moisture in the soil (which must always be kept moist), the soil is covered with plastic film. The appearance of foliage on the upper part of the stem signals normal rooting of the cuttings. It is separated from the mother tree and planted in a permanent area.