How to pinch watermelons: the correct diagram with photo instructions. Growing watermelons in open ground and greenhouses + care tips

Benefits of pinching

On the vines of the melon crop, as many fruits are preserved as will ripen under the conditions in which the plants are grown. Otherwise, the harvest will be disappointing: it will grow small and taste like grass.

The benefits of pinching watermelons and melons are double:

The tops do not grow like a high wall. The sun illuminates the vines with ovaries better. The plant directs all its energy to ripening the fruits and accumulating sugar in them.
On the other hand, when there are fewer leaves and vines underfoot, it is easier to water or weed.

After pinching, those shoots on which female flowers appear first develop. In watermelon it is the central stem, and in melon it is the side branches.

Further care of the crop

After the main work of pinching the watermelon has been carried out and the plants have been formed correctly, you need to continue to care for it. Once a week you need to inspect the bushes and pinch off the stepsons that are beginning to grow. After the number of fruits reaches the required quantity, all subsequent flowers must also be picked off, both male and female. Pinching should be done in dry and sunny weather - on days when it rains, there is a risk of rotting of some of the vines that touch the ground.

See also: Watermelon inside with yellow flesh: the best varieties and growing features

Like other garden plants, watermelons need moisture and nutrients to grow on their own and produce large, juicy, and sweet fruits. Water regularly, especially after the ovaries have formed. Watering is stopped only after the watermelons have grown to the size characteristic of the variety, so that they do not burst.

Weed regularly so that the plants are not overgrown with weeds - they draw nutrients and moisture from the soil that could have been used up by watermelons for their growth and development. In addition to watering and loosening, plants require additional feeding, otherwise there will be no good harvest. First, they are fertilized with nitrogen fertilizers so that they can grow green mass, then, when flowers begin to appear, more phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are used. These elements affect flowering, fruit set and fruit quality.

Harvesting occurs when the fruits are fully ripe. This can be determined in different ways: by the characteristic sound that appears when you knock on a watermelon, by a spot on the side that touches the ground (it should turn yellow), by stripes on the surface that should become brighter. And, of course, by the dry tail, which is one of the sure signs of watermelon ripeness. Unripe fruits are poorly stored, not juicy and tasteless, so there is no need to rush into picking.

Pinching melon seedlings

In the northern regions, summer residents use the seedling method to grow melons or watermelons. The seeds are sown in individual containers at the end of April, a month before transplanting the seedlings into the beds.

They cannot be kept in the seedling phase, otherwise the fruit ripening period will be delayed.

When a melon seedling has two true leaves, topping is done. This is the first pinch - removing the top. Further actions are as follows:

For 4–5 days, the seedlings are watered with green fertilizer.
Plow the area for the beds to a depth of half a meter.
Form holes at a distance of 1 m and add humus.
Seedlings are planted and watered with warm water.

At first, in case of frost, young plants are covered with non-woven fabric.

How to pinch in open ground

A melon bush is formed using three methods: with 1, 2 or 3 lashes. How to pinch watermelons and melons using these patterns depends on three characteristics:

Climate of the region.
Fruit variety.
Place of cultivation: greenhouse or open ground.

Do not pinch melon varieties grown in the southern areas and in the Black Earth Region. As for the northern regions, plants there are planted at least twice during the summer.

Pinching watermelon ovaries

If we talk about how to pinch a watermelon, you should consider all the possible methods often used by gardeners:

In the first case, you need to remove the side shoots of the plant. This method is applicable to all varietal varieties of melons. It is necessary to leave several ovaries on the main shoot, and the lateral ones should be devoid of ovaries. Each of them is pinched so that only a few leaves remain.
The next method of forming a bush involves removing side shoots. The ovaries should be left every 5 leaves and all excess should be mercilessly torn off.
And the third, most common method - in this case the side lashes are not removed. You need to wait until the fruits form on the side shoots, while simultaneously removing all the shoots from the main stem, leaving no more than 6 fruits on the entire plant. On each shoot you need to leave no more than 2 ovaries, and the top should be pinched at a height of 3 leaves.

How to shoot watermelons

When forming a watermelon in open ground according to a simple scheme, the vines are given the opportunity to grow in the bed allocated to them. And when they stretch out and begin to go beyond their limits, they pinch the tops of the shoots, thereby limiting their further growth.

As soon as the berries grow to the size of an apple, perform the following steps:

From two to four ovaries are left on one lash.
Five leaves extend from the outermost ovary and pinch off the tops.
Non-fruiting shoots are pruned. And the rest are laid out at some distance from each other, preventing them from touching.

In areas with a short growing season, the formation of watermelons is carried out according to a scheme that allows ovaries to appear on third-order shoots. The berries on these vines ripen earlier than on others.

When the secondary shoots just appear from the axils, two of them are left, and the third is cut off with a sharp knife or pruning shears.
Each stem is stopped above the 5th leaf.

Over time, a new generation of branches grows from the axils of the secondary shoots, and fruits form on them.

Why pinch watermelons?

To limit the number of ovaries, plants are pinched. When a lot of fruits form on the vine, they become smaller and do not have time to ripen. Pinching watermelons is reminiscent of pinching peppers or melons. The procedure is especially relevant in areas with colder climates when summers are short.

Important! Watermelons that have been pinched grow less green mass. They are more convenient to process, weed and water, since you do not have to step on the leaves and stems, which grow strongly.

Is it possible to do without it?

Be sure to pinch plants in cold regions, in northern Russia. Southern cultures manage without it. Sometimes the procedure is not carried out in greenhouses, where the fruits have time to ripen during the season.

For watermelons growing in open ground, pinching is mandatory.

How to plant melons

Formation of melons in open ground is carried out differently from the way watermelon is grown. An already cropped seedling is transferred into the ground, on which, instead of the central stem, a fragment with 3 leaves remains.

After 2–3 strong side branches appear on each side, they are laid out in the form of rays, directing growth to three parts of the world. One ovary is left on the lashes, and the rest are removed. When the fruits grow to a diameter of 5–7 cm, the tops of the side shoots are shortened.

People's advice on forming watermelons

How to pinch a melon

In Altai, a simple method of forming a watermelon is used: one shoot and one ovary are left, side shoots, flowers and ovaries are removed, the main vine is cut off, leaving 5-6 leaves. The result is one large watermelon.

People's advice on forming watermelons

The method of pinching watermelons is used, when the main vine and two stepsons are allowed to grow. They grow in the axils of the third and fourth leaves. Leave one ovary on the lashes. The harvest with this scheme is 3 watermelons of the required maturity, pleasant taste and the required size.

When growing in mid-latitudes, it is especially important to properly form the bush; there are three main methods:

If the variety is large-fruited, no more than 3 berries are left on the main stem, if the variety is small - up to 6 ovaries. The fruits are removed from the side shoots, 4 leaves are left, the rest are removed.
The second method is to remove the side shoots, leaving the required number of fruits on the main vine and 5 leaves, the rest is removed.
It is the side shoots where the berries grow that are left; the entire ovary is removed from the main shoot. When inflorescences appear on the bush, leave up to 6 ovaries.

When deciding how to plant watermelons, you need to take into account the climatic characteristics of the region and the method of cultivation. There is no universal technology; in the absence of experience, it is better to try simple technologies for the correct formation of a bush. You can also, through experiments, identify the best ways to form a bush and normalize the number of fruits in regions with a short warm season.

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Pinching patterns in the greenhouse

In northern regions with cool summers, melons ripen only in greenhouses. Seedlings are planted in closed ground in the first ten days of May. They water, ventilate, and when the watermelons and melons grow, the lashes are tied with twine to the trellis. Then they begin to form the bush.

At this stage, the number of ovaries and lashes is controlled, because the plant cannot bear many fruits.

Timing of the procedure

Varieties that require a lot of sunlight and heat ripen quickly and are characterized by a sweet taste. In the regions of the northern and central zone, cold weather comes early, so the plant needs to be helped to ripen while the days are still warm. To carry out the pinching procedure, it is necessary to determine the most suitable time. As practice shows, pinching at the wrong time can ruin the entire yield.

Important! Pinching
should be done on warm, sunny days so that the cut areas dry quickly.
Pruning shoots in wet weather promotes the formation of rot. It is better to start pinching out excess vegetation when the seedlings begin to shade each other. Pruning is done when secondary shoots are visible: this prevents the plant from weakening and promotes the growth of watermelons. It is also recommended to remove the shoots above the berry itself so that the fruit receives more sunlight.

Watermelon varieties for the greenhouse

Number of fruits

Small-fruited (Ogonyok, Sugar Baby) 4–6
Large-fruited (Triumph, Bonta F1) 2
The number of ovaries on the lashes is left at 7–8 and 3–4, respectively, if the summer in the region is hot.

Why is pinching needed?

In truth, this may be the most common question regarding pinching watermelons. People are very worried about the difficulties that may arise while growing something. The most interesting thing is that experienced gardeners are confident that growing watermelons correctly is no more difficult than the same cucumbers or tomatoes.

Watermelon is an unusual, exotic berry, and was brought to our region a long time ago. To grow, it needs either open ground or a good greenhouse with natural conditions.

The process of growing watermelon is characterized by all the same features as with other cultivated plants, but there is one feature - pinching. What is it?

If we look at it from a technical point of view, this is something like pinching ordinary seedlings, like peppers, tomatoes, corn, and so on. The goal is to make life easier for the fruit-bearing plant, so that the berries ripen faster and gain more juice and sweetness.

It is also interesting that in greenhouse conditions you can skip this procedure, while in the northern regions of the country pinching is a mandatory procedure when growing watermelon.

After pinching, the plant is deprived of excess green mass, which under normal conditions only draws additional moisture, which slows down the process of growth and ripening of the fruit.

Usually, after this, up to three ovaries are left, on which future fruits will grow, and excess shoots are removed so as not to create additional stress on the plant.

How to shape a watermelon

In hybrids, only the central stem is left, removing excess shoots. The formation of varietal crops in a greenhouse is carried out according to two schemes:

The first two lower lashes are cut off with pruning shears. The plant is tied up, the central stem is twisted around the twine, which, in turn, is fixed to the trellis. The middle and upper shoots are preserved if they bear fruit. Five leaves after the watermelon ovary are left and pinched. Then, just like the central stem, these lashes are tied up.
The central stem is tied to the trellis, twisted around the twine. After the flowers appear, the barren vines are cut off. When the ovaries on the remaining branches become the size of a small apple, do the same: after the fruit, count five leaves and pinch the top.

Why form greenhouse watermelons?

According to their characteristics, watermelons are very similar to tomatoes, but they have their own characteristics of growth and development. They have unlimited growth of vines, and if formation and pinching is ignored, the shoots will extend further.

The bush will spend energy on their development and form new fruits. The result will be a mass of long branches and many small fruits. In warm climates they can mature to normal size, but in our latitudes this is impossible.

To grow watermelons in unfavorable climates, you need to choose only early-ripening varieties. Accordingly, little time passes between the period of formation and ripening of fruits, which requires compliance with certain rules when growing.

The formation of a bush stops excessive growth of shoots and only a few ovaries remain on the bush. Don't worry about this - you will get fewer fruits, but they will all be large and sweet. If you do not perform the pinching procedure, there will be more watermelons, but the taste will leave much to be desired.

How to shape a melon

The formation of the melon is done in 2 steps:

When the melon is still young: there are no stepsons or shoots, pinch off the central stem above the 5th leaf. What is left of the plant is tied to a trellis. After the procedure, the formation of stepsons in the axils of the leaves is expected.
Second-order shoots are also pinched above the 5th leaf. This procedure will allow third-order shoots to grow, on which female inflorescences appear and melons form.

Depending on the variety, 4–5 fruits are left on the bush, the rest are removed. More ovaries are preserved in two cases: if the season is hot or the variety is small-fruited.

Small-fruited varieties (1–1.5 kg) – Kolkhoznitsa, Yuzhanka, Zolotaya Luna.
Large-fruited varieties (2–4.5 kg) – Honey, Torpedo.

Rules for the pinching procedure

There are several technologies for pruning watermelon plants. Methods differ depending on the variety, growing conditions and climatic components.

stem

When pruning the stem, it is worth clearly remembering a few rules:

Only stepsons can be removed. The main stem must not be damaged.
There should be no more than two shoots on one stem.
One bush after pruning should have no less than two and no more than six ovaries (the exact number depends on the plant variety). The ovaries need to be removed in the first stages of their formation.
Shoots with five or more leaves are cut after the second leaf. Here you need to monitor the appearance of new shoots and remove them immediately.
If the shoot is not fruitful, it is pinched completely.
After the first ovaries form on the shoot, the upper sections are cut off, leaving only a few leaves.
During the period of berry growth, pinching is not carried out.

If after pinching a few leaves remain on the plant, then cut off the shoot located above the berry. This ensures the growth of new leaves. Side branches that do not have an ovary are removed at the root collar to allow further formation of the fruit and its good ripening.

Did you know? The largest watermelon-flavored berry, kavbuz, was bred by Ukrainian scientists by crossing watermelon ("kavun" in Ukrainian) and pumpkin ("garbuz" in Ukrainian). The weight of such a fruit with good care can reach 65 kg, but even if the plant has not been cared for enough, its average weight can be 15 kg.

Tops of the stem

Excess shoots at the top of the stem are removed with scissors. The branching of the plant created has a good effect on the harvest. The optimal number of leaves will ensure good nutrition for the bush and prevent it from drying out. Instructions for trimming the top of the stem:

As the watermelon grows, it forms lashes.
During pinching, side shoots are removed without affecting the main stem. At this stage, such manipulation will improve the growth and development of the stem for the appearance of the first ovaries.
After pollination and growth of ovaries, barren and weak shoots are pruned.
On fruit-bearing shoots, only the tops are removed.

Watermelon ovaries

Watermelon ovaries can be pinched using one of three methods:

The first is carried out in the presence of side shoots . All barren shoots are removed, leaving 3–6 ovaries on the main one. Only 3–4 leaves are left on unnecessary shoots, which take part in feeding the main stem. As the berries grow, the lower shoots are gradually removed. This method is suitable for all varieties of watermelon.
The second method involves cutting the side shoots . The ovary is preserved every 4–5 leaves. In this case, you should inspect the bushes once a week and remove new shoots.
The third method is the most popular among gardeners . The side shoots of the main shoot are not touched. Fruit set occurs on the side shoots, and all shoots on the main shoot are cut off. After the first ovary appears, no more than 6 fruits can be left on one bush. Each lash is allowed to have no more than 2 berries. The tops are pinched to the third leaf. All excess shoots are cut off.

Find out how to properly plant a watermelon at home.

Thanks to the third method of pinching the branches, the plants become more developed, and the harvest is rich. The optimal number of leaves allows the bush to feed well and prevents it from drying out.

How to properly pollinate watermelons and melons before pinching

In the greenhouse, melons and melons are pollinated by hand. The flowers of watermelons and melons are not fragrant, so they do not attract bees and bumblebees. And if insects do arrive, they land only on male flowers. Complete pollination of the female inflorescence will not occur unless an insect with pollen on its legs visits the flower at least 30 times.

So they don’t expect help from bees and bumblebees. The preferred time for performing a manual procedure is from 6 to 10 am. Conditions under which the activity of female stigmas and male pollen is high:

The night temperature in the greenhouse the day before was not lower than 12 degrees.
During the day, the thermometer stays at 18–20 degrees.

Perform pollination according to the instructions:

The male flower is picked, the petals are removed, and the stalk with pollen is left.
The pestle touches the stamens of female inflorescences. To obtain a guaranteed harvest, the procedure is repeated several times.

It’s good if ants have settled in the greenhouse; these insects also pollinate watermelons and melons.

How to properly care for a plant after pinching

In order for the culture to continue to develop, proper care is very important. Regularly inspect the shoots and remove new shoots that may interfere with the normal development and gain of strength of the berries. After the berry begins to increase in size, it is necessary to use nets to prevent rot. Organic fertilizers are applied every 2 weeks. Watering is carried out every 3 days. In this case, up to 5 liters of water are given to each bush.

Important. To ensure that the bushes are not exposed to diseases after pinching, the procedure must be carried out in the middle of the day so that the sun's rays immediately dry the cut areas.

Subtleties of caring for watermelons and melons after pinching

Every week, the plants in the greenhouse are inspected by performing the following steps:

The side stepsons are removed.
The mustache is trimmed.
Tear off yellow, deformed leaves and those that touch the ground.
The overgrown tops of the lashes are twisted around the twine.

Watermelons and melons also require abundant watering, spraying, loosening the soil, and fertilizing. Once every 7-10 days they are watered with green fertilizer at the rate of 1 liter per 10 liters of water, sprinkled with ash.

After the formation of ovaries, fertilizing is reduced. When the watermelon grows to the size of an apple, it is hung in a net, which is fixed to the frame of the greenhouse. By autumn, stop watering, thereby preventing the fruit from cracking.

Growing watermelons and melons in a greenhouse or open ground is not a difficult task if you know the timing and pinching patterns. With proper care and timely formation of bushes, you can count on a decent harvest.

The health benefits of homemade fruits are invaluable; they contain no nitrates, a lot of vitamins and a taste incomparable to store-bought melons. So it’s good to have a house in the village with a vegetable garden.

Post-procedure care

After pinching, watermelons are carefully looked after:

Water at least 2 times a week. The amount of water is reduced when the fruits ripen, since waterlogging contributes to cracking of watermelons.
When the fruits grow to the size of walnuts, they are placed in special nets. This will protect against rotting.
The soil under watermelons is covered with straw so that the fruits do not touch the ground.
The culture responds well to mullein, humus, bird droppings, and superphosphate with potassium.
New shoots are immediately removed so that the plants do not waste their energy on them.