How to get rid of plum growths in your summer cottage


Reasons for the appearance of plum growths

The plum tree is a self-rooted tree, so it produces many more root shoots than plants grown on a seed rhizome. Plum shoots grow quickly and can form impenetrable thickets. Before dealing with plum shoots, you must first find out the reason for their appearance.

Important: The plum tree tries to survive on its shoots, so it grows luxuriantly. Plum trees can be attacked by pests (aphids, caterpillars, silkworms, moths, butterflies, etc.) or become sick as a result of the use of fertilizers. Therefore, poor growth should prompt the gardener to be more careful.

The main reasons for the appearance of root buds are

  1. Bare roots.
  2. Damaged root system.
  3. Tight bandage in the graft area.
  4. Inconsistency between rhizome and scion.
  5. Finish pruning the plum tree.

Note. Root rot caused by heat or drought also results in wild shoots.

Plum Planting Basics

The main thing in the process of planting plums is choosing the right variety. In order for the tree not to freeze and produce good harvests, it must be designed for the local climate. Having decided on the variety, they choose a site and the optimal planting time - if you make a mistake, the tree will be weakened, infertile, or even die due to unsuitable conditions. Let's find out how to plant a plum tree correctly and what planting options are available.

Terrain, climate and habitat

Plum is a heat-loving plant, it is widespread in Europe and in most countries of the world with a temperate climate. She feels excellent in all southern regions of Russia - in the North Caucasus, in the Krasnodar Territory.

The north of the Moscow region is considered to be the boundary of the plum's range - almost no plums are grown beyond this boundary. But, thanks to selection, today frost-resistant varieties have been bred that grow and bear fruit in regions with a harsh climate - in the Urals, Siberia, and the Far East.

When planting plums, it is important to compare local climatic conditions with the frost resistance of a particular variety. The critical temperature for this crop is minus 30 degrees. But if such frosts drag on, the tree may not be able to withstand it.

Where is the best place to plant plums:

Selection of seedlings

Seedlings sold by nurseries are usually obtained by grafting a varietal plant onto rootstocks grown from seeds. You can also buy your own rooted seedlings - they are grown from cuttings or root shoots.

Parameters for choosing a good seedling:

15-20 cm for one-year-olds and 30 cm for two-year-olds

4-5 roots from 25 cm long

Autumn planting

Autumn planting is carried out in such a time that there is about a month left before frost. Procedure for planting plum seedlings:

Why remove growth?

Many gardeners do not understand why destroy plum shoots, because in a few years it will turn into a full-fledged plant that will produce an additional harvest. However, there are many reasons to get rid of plum shoots. Plum trees not only spoil the appearance of your garden, but also take away nutrients from the plums themselves. This is explained by the fact that they have a common root.

Aboveground shoots feed throughout the growing season, absorbing significant amounts of vital nutrients. This leads to the fact that the shoots weaken the tree’s nutrition and reduce productivity. Additionally, once the plum tree has spread, it is very difficult to get rid of. Therefore, wild plum shoots must be systematically destroyed.

Warning! Plum trees obtained from a fruit rootstock are successfully used for propagation. However, it is necessary to systematically remove shoots from grafted rootstocks or from the trunk.

Care and cultivation of plums

Plum, although unpretentious, like any garden tree, needs care. Each season has its own specifics. The most worries are in the spring and summer.

Subtleties of care at different times of the year

The taste and size of the fruit, the yield of the tree, its health and longevity depend on the correctness and timeliness of care. Caring for plums by season:

Timing of watering

The watering rate for plums depends on the age. A young tree requires 30-40 liters, an adult tree needs 70-80 liters. Approximate watering schedule for an adult fruit-bearing tree:

When watering, the soil should be moistened to a depth of 1 m. You should not overwater the plum tree - this is harmful to the harvest. The frequency of watering depends on the condition of the soil - it should not be dry.

The timing and frequency of watering depend not only on the climatic conditions of the region and current weather conditions, but also on the age of the tree. Features of watering depending on age:

The main criterion for watering plums is the condition of the soil. It should be moisturized, but not wet. There should be no stagnation of water.

When and how to feed plums?

Features of feeding plum:

What else you need to know about feeding plums:

How to deal with plum shoots

Below are four methods of destroying rootstocks, indicating their advantages and disadvantages:

  1. Pruning plum trees with a saw. A method that is easy to apply. However, the effect is short-lived.
  2. Trimming. A more complex method than cutting with a saw. But this will help you forget about the problem of overgrowth for a long time.
  3. Chemical treatment. Fast and efficient. Disadvantage: Chemicals cannot be used if there are fruit-bearing plants near the plum tree.
  4. Insulation. Destroys shoots in a short time. Disadvantage: The cover is not very aesthetically pleasing.

Therefore, it is necessary to regularly trim the undergrowth. This measure is usually carried out in early spring or late autumn. However, the problem is that frozen ground and unmelted snow often prevent gardeners from getting rid of shoots at the base (on a horizontal root system). Experienced gardeners advise getting rid of rhizomes with a saw. Do not use scissors or a knife to cut the shoots as the plum tree may be damaged and weakened.

Gardeners often have to use pruning shears to get rid of wild shoots. The undergrowth is cut down to the level of the surface layer of soil. But this method is not good enough. If pruning is carried out in the spring, then the shoots from the seedlings will thicken in a few months and form several bushy plums.

Wild plum shoots can be properly removed by cutting them out. Wild shoots are dug up to the mother root and then cut back to the very base (simply pruning the shoots speeds up their formation). After clearing the plants, the hole is filled with soil and compacted.

An effective way to permanently remove plum shoots is to remove them incompletely, leaving a small protruding stump. This stump should be sprayed with herbicide twice per season. This treatment will allow you to completely get rid of the rhizome in two years. Other effective drugs: Glyphos, Tornado, Hurricane, Roundup. These compounds destroy various types of vegetation.

Tip: There are two ways to combat undergrowth: spraying or combing. It is recommended to carry out processing in November, when all nearby plum crops have been harvested. It is advisable to choose a calm day.

Isolation is also an effective way to get rid of underbrush on a plum tree. To carry out the procedure, draw a circle with a radius of 0.5 m around the tree. Cover the remaining area outside the circle with newspaper. Then spray the area with water and tamp it down with your feet. Cover the area with plastic wrap and tarred paper. Place sand (or fertile soil) on top of the structure. After some time, flowers and grass will grow on the filled soil. Ruberoid and plastic film prevent the development of snails.

Is it possible to grow a plum from root shoots?


It should be noted that propagation of plums by root shoots is applied only to ungrafted trees. This method is used to propagate “own-rooted” plants. We can determine whether a tree is grafted in front of us or not by the type of shoots it produces:

  1. If the appearance of the leaves, their color, the color of the buds, the trunk of the sprouts differs from the mother trunk, then the plant is grafted.
  2. If the shoots are indistinguishable from the parent tree, we have root shoots suitable for cultivation.

Important!

You cannot use sprouts located in close proximity to the parent tree - this can damage its root system and it will dry out. Such shoots are removed.


It is believed that propagation by root shoots is the easiest and most effective way to get a new fruit tree. This method is especially relevant when the parent plant is aging or has received serious damage, and you need to preserve your favorite variety.

A plum grown from shoots blooms the very next year. However, it will begin to bear fruit in 2-3 years. Trees propagated in this way have a number of advantages over purchased seedlings. They:

  • more hardy;
  • well adapted to local conditions;
  • less susceptible to disease.

They are characterized by high productivity. If you work with plum shoots correctly, you can get many varietal trees.

Overgrowth prevention

Plum trees constantly produce shoots. To minimize the likelihood of its occurrence, you must follow basic rules. Here are the most effective methods for preventing plum trees:

  • In high plantings, the root system of the crop is close to the surface layer of soil, so it can be damaged during plowing. The plum bush will sprout vigorously from damaged areas;
  • When watering, do not use a strong stream of water so as not to expose the root system and damage it mechanically;
  • When grafting, use high-quality rootstocks. The plum tree needs to be looked after. If the rhizome begins to be rejected, it should be removed and the cut site should be sealed with quicklime or a special preparation;
  • The grafted scion and rootstock should be tightly tied with tape. As a grafted plum tree grows, the tape often cuts into the xylem (tree tissue). As a result, the plum tree sprouts many shoots to provide another food source;

It is also not recommended to dig up the soil near the trunk of a plum tree, so as not to cause mechanical damage to the bark. To do this, it is enough to loosen the soil. If you damage the bark of a plum tree or trim the crown, insufficient nutrients will flow into the root system.

Why growth may appear

There are quite a few factors that provoke the appearance of overgrowth. To prevent future problems from occurring, it is important to identify their causes.

Mistakes made during landing

The appearance of offspring may be due to the tree being planted too high. This entails the active development of a spreading root system, which is located near the very surface of the soil. If the grafting area gets access to the sun's rays, the rootstock will form its own crown. As a result, a lot of growth is formed.

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Another common mistake when planting plums is placing them in the shade of trees. If there is a lack of lighting and nutrition, the tree will try to grow at the expense of root suckers.

Traumatization of bark and branches

Violation of the rules of tree care, the influence of negative natural factors and the incidence of various diseases cause a disproportion in the supply of useful substances to the root system. This causes the plant to sprout new shoots. A plum tree may produce shoots if the shoots are not pruned correctly.

The appearance of problems is most often observed the next year after improper pruning. Basically, they are associated with insufficient treatment of damaged areas with special means. Also, shoots appear if the gardener does not remove the binding from the graft.

See also

Description of 14 varieties of Hungarian plums, planting and growing

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Improper placement of scion and rootstock

If the rootstock is not combined with the scion, nutrient production is disrupted. However, they move incorrectly between top and bottom. It may take 1 year for the problem to be identified.

In this case, there is a risk of depletion of the root system, weakened tree growth, and premature yellowing of leaves. Also, resistance to frost often decreases and the scion thickens. To compensate for starvation, the culture forms new shoots.

How to get rid of a plum tree on your property (from an adult)

Often gardeners have to cut down a plum tree. At first glance, this task seems simple. However, in order to get rid of a plum tree on your property yourself, you need to know all the nuances of this process. Below is a detailed description of how to get rid of a plum tree yourself.

Using chemicals

The first method is to remove the plum chemically. This method is quite simple and effective. To get rid of an adult plum, it is necessary to use special chemicals that will destroy the root of the crop. To get rid of a plant chemically, you will need:

  • container for the drug;
  • Arbicide or herbicide solution;
  • Plastic film;
  • teachings;
  • saw.

Experts recommend using environmentally friendly arboricides. If this product is not available, a mid-range herbicide should be used.

Procedural steps:

  1. The plum tree was cut down at chest height.
  2. The stump should not be uprooted immediately, as it may leave a living root in the soil that will cause new growth.
  3. Drill several small holes in the resulting cut a short distance from the bark. You will need a drill with a large diameter.
  4. Prepare a chemical solution. The concentration of the solution should be suitable for removing weeds. Then pour the prepared solution into the drilled holes.
  5. Cover the cut with foil or plastic.
  6. After a week, drill a few more holes and also pour freshly prepared chemical into them. If necessary, repeat the procedure after ten years.

The undergrowth will begin to die off, and then the stump will be easy to get rid of.

Mechanically

Many gardeners believe that getting rid of an adult plum tree in the garden is very simple: just cut it off at the root. But that's not true. Left in the soil, the root system of the plum tree, having gained strength, will sprout dense shoots.

For this reason, it is necessary to follow this algorithm:

  1. The plum tree is cut in the usual way. The cutting height should be chosen arbitrarily.
  2. Getting rid of the stump right away will prevent the underground root system from being removed.
  3. Wait a few months for new growth to appear on and around the stump. This way you can discover where the living roots of the plum tree are.
  4. They must be dug up and removed mechanically.

Another option is to dig up the plum tree stump down to the roots and pull them out. Then coat the cut edges with oil paint or garden varnish. Repeat until growth stops.

Important: Watering the trunk with boiling water can weaken the root of a pruned plum tree. However, do not add salt or any chemicals to this water as this will unbalance the soil chemistry.

Instructions for removing growth

To completely eliminate the growth within 2 years, you need to cut it off, leaving a stump, which is treated with pure Roundup. When planting plums, carefully select a variety from which abundant shoots are formed from:

  • Local Red;
  • Ochakovskaya yellow;
  • Ordinary Hungarian;
  • Hungarian Italian.

A small percentage (30% or less) is observed in the following varieties (plums with almost no shoots):

  • Stanley;
  • Rencold Altana;
  • Anna Shpet.

Pay attention to the rootstock when grafting. A small number of basal shoots or their absence is observed in VVA-1, Druzhba, Evrika-99, Kuban, compatible with all varieties with rare exceptions.

A number of the following methods are also used:

  • Treatment with pruning shears is the simplest method. It is necessary to act below the soil level. The cut areas are treated with varnish. The growth that has appeared on the plum trunk is also removed.
  • Insulation is carried out by covering a radius of 5 m from the trunk with cardboard moistened and trampled into the soil. Ruberoid is placed on top and covered with sand and soil. You can sow grass.
  • Mulching the ground around the plum, which retains moisture and prevents the development of sprouts.
  • Chemical applications include arboricides and herbicides. The former are used when there are other fruit plants in the garden. Holes are drilled in the stumps and the product is poured in, covering the treated area with film for a week. Herbicides Roundup and Tornado are weaker in action and are diluted with water.

The advantages and disadvantages of the methods are as follows. The pruning shears are easy to use, but require subsequent supervision and care. When isolated, the landscape deteriorates. The chemistry may affect other crops, although it is effective in its effects. Similar approaches are used in solving the question: how to get rid of excess cherries in the garden forever.

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How to dig up a plum root

To permanently get rid of an old plum tree in the countryside in the fall, cut down the crown and then uproot the trunk. The old tree's root system in the ground holds the stump firmly in place. Therefore, a lot of work will have to be done.

An inexperienced gardener chooses the easy way: he cuts down the plum tree and leaves the trunk. With a little creativity, it can be integrated harmoniously into your garden design. But after a while, problems await the gardener. Young shoots will begin to emerge from the stump. If the plant is pruned, it will grow even faster. What to do with trimmed plum shoots in the garden?

Steps to take:

  1. Place the metal trunk without a bottom on the trunk of the plum tree (the trunk will sink into the cylinder).
  2. Place newspapers, dry branches of varying thicknesses and other smoking materials inside.
  3. It is recommended to prepare additional firewood in advance, which will need to be constantly added to the fire until the stump burns out.

After some time, repeat the process 2-4 times.

You can get rid of a plum tree stump by using a chemical method. To do this, make several holes in the stump. Pour several handfuls of saltpeter or urea into each hole. Wrap the plastic tightly around the stump. After a few years, the stump and its root system will rot. In spring, annual plants can be planted around the stump.

Propagation of plums by cuttings

Even a beginner can grow plums from cuttings.
The plant is best propagated by green cuttings. They are usually harvested in early July, when the shoots turn red at the base. In cloudy weather, early in the morning or in the evening, a young healthy shoot 20-30 cm long is cut. Cuttings with 2-4 leaves are cut from it (one cut is made straight, and the second one is lower - at an angle of 45 degrees) and dipped in a solution of a growth stimulator (Epina , Heteroauxin or others) for 14-16 hours.

The bed for rooting cuttings is prepared in advance in a place protected from direct sunlight. Peat is mixed with sand in equal parts, the resulting mixture is poured onto the bed (the layer should be 10-14 cm). The surface is leveled and 2-3 cm of coarse river sand is poured on top. Before planting the cuttings, the bed is watered with a fertilizer solution (1 tsp superphosphate per 10 liters of water).

The cuttings are planted vertically in pre-moistened soil. They are buried by 2.5-3 cm. The distance between plants should be 5-7 cm. A frame or wire arcs are installed over the ridge and the film is stretched. In the resulting greenhouse, the air temperature should be within 25-28°C.

The cuttings are watered a little several times a day and condensation is removed from the film. Roots form after 15-40 days, depending on the plum variety. On hot days, the cuttings are ventilated so that the temperature in the greenhouse does not exceed 30°C.

In October, the bed with cuttings is mulched with peat and dry leaves (a layer of about 10 cm), and in the northern regions, with the onset of cold weather, it is additionally covered with thick spunbond for the winter. In spring, seedlings can be transplanted to a permanent place in the garden.

The best varieties of plums propagated by green cuttings are Skoroslopaya red, Hungarian Moscow, Pamyat Timiryazev and Tula black.

Plum varieties without shoots

Plum trees of all varieties produce shoots. However, they do it differently. In horticulture, own-root varieties of plums have been isolated, which form a large number of wild shoots, for example:

  • "Ochakovskaya yellow";
  • ""General Hungarian";
  • ""Italian Hungarian";
  • "Local Red".

They produce dense and tall shoots.

There are also own-root varieties of plums, which are characterized by a low percentage of root growth. Consider the types of plum trees without shoots; These include:

  • "Rencold Altana";
  • "Stanley";
  • "Anna Shpet"

In addition, these types of plums produce abundant harvests and are resistant to the negative impacts of the ecosystem.

Preparation for winter and frost resistance

Preparing seedlings for winter is carried out in the autumn. The process includes the following activities:

Insulation and wintering depend on the age of the tree and the severity of winters in the region. Thus, it is recommended to insulate young trees, and bury annual seedlings under the snow for the winter.

The procedure for insulating wood:

Preparation for wintering depends on the region:

Reviews

Nadezhda Novikova, 44 years old, Temryuk Several years ago I bought a garden plot on which an old plum tree grew. The tree bore little fruit, but produced a dense undergrowth that spoiled the appearance of the garden. First I trimmed these thickets and removed the crown. I then dug up the plum tree down to the root and cut it out. Then I rocked the boot for a long time. I pulled the stump out of the ground with a shovel. Then I sprinkled the stump with coarse salt, wrapped it in a plastic bag and kept it that way for a little over a year. When I unwrapped it, I saw a severed scar. The undergrowth has disappeared. Alexey Mikhailov, 52 years old, Samara If you trim the trunk with pruning shears, over time it will turn into a plum tree. I get rid of plum shoots using Roundup herbicide. I carefully treat unwanted shoots with this powerful drug. The plum tree itself was not damaged by chemical treatment. Apparently the chemical doesn't reach it through its long horizontal root system. So take a look at my tips on how to get rid of those pesky sprouts. Works very well!

Causes

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The following list of reasons leads to this disaster:

  • Twice as much shoots are formed in self-rooted trees compared to grafted ones (on seed rootstocks).
  • Violation of agricultural practices during planting. Exposure of roots when the tree is placed high or as a result of watering with a stream.
  • Failure to comply with technical conditions at the time of grafting the varietal branch to the rootstock. For example, incompatibility with the scion disrupts metabolism, which depletes the roots. The plant produces shoots to compensate for insufficient nutrition.
  • Inappropriate care after grafting or planting. For example, incorrect tying in the grafted part of the plant. If it is tight, thickening near it, the tape can cut into the wood. There is an outflow of nutrients from the leaves to the roots. Shooting is a protective reaction of the tree, because it nourishes the root system.
  • Root damage. The reason is their high seating position, their proximity to the surface, and frequent injury. Root shoots develop from adventitious buds in places of damage.
  • Incorrect crown formation. Total pruning deprives the roots of sufficient nutrition. This violation of the proportionality of the upper and lower parts leads to the formation of greenery at the roots.
  • Oppressive conditions: drought, freezing.

Harmful greens multiply at the bottom of trees, be it a cherry or a plum. During the summer season, about 20 young shoots of various sizes appear. If the shoot arose on a rooted varietal tree, it is suitable for propagation. But a grafted wild bird produces wild shoots, which must be regularly disposed of.


Plum shoots

Reviews from gardeners about planting and caring for plums

The beauty of the plum is its diversity, unpretentiousness and generous harvests. By planting several different varieties on your site, you will provide yourself with plums for the whole summer. With a little effort, several buckets of plums will grow in your garden every year - early and late, blue and yellow, sweet and sour, for compotes and for prunes.

Source

ClusterosporiasisA fungal disease that affects leaves, branches, buds, flowers. There are spots on the leaves that turn into holes. Thinning the crown, removing fallen leaves. 2-3 weeks before the start of flowering - treatment with 1% Bordeaux mixture / copper chloride (30-40 g per 10 liters of water).
MoniliosisFungal disease. Affects all parts of the tree. The fruits turn brown and become covered with gray spots. Collection and destruction of affected fruits and branches. Before and after flowering - spray with 1% Bordeaux mixture. You can also treat the tree with fungicides after flowering.
GomozGum treatment. The bark exudes resin. Affected branches dry out and die. Avoidance of mechanical damage. Wounds are treated with copper sulfate 1% and petralatum. Severely affected branches are cut down.
RustA fungal disease that affects the leaves - rusty spots appear on them. Trees weaken and lose winter hardiness. Cleaning up fallen leaves. Treatment before flowering with copper oxychloride (40 g per 5 liters of water). On wood - 3 spoons of solution. Treatment with 1% Bordeaux mixture.
Fruit rotBrown spots appear on the fruits, then gray pads with fungal spores appear.Destruction of affected fruits. Treating wood with 1% Bordeaux mixture.
CoccomycosisThe most dangerous fungal disease. Affects leaves, fruits, shoots. The leaves have red-brown and purple spots. On the back of the leaves there is a pink coating with spores. Destruction of fallen leaves. Treatment with copper chloride (30 g per 10 liters of water) or 1% Bordeaux mixture.
Plum mothCaterpillars eat the pulp of plums. The fruits ooze gum, darken and fall off. Destroy the affected fruits. Treatment with 10% Karbofos and Benzophosphate.
Cherry moth (affects all stone fruits)Caterpillars eat up buds and gnaw through green shoots.Before sap flow - Nitrafen, during kidney swelling - 10% Karbofos.
Plum aphidSucks juice from leaves. They curl and dry. In early spring, spray with Nitrafen. During bud break and after flowering - Karbofos and Benzophosphate.
Apple scale insect (affects all stone fruits)It spreads along the tree bark and sucks the juice from young shoots.Treatment before sap flow with Nitrafen (per 10 liters of water - 200-300 g). After flowering - Karbofos.
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