Growing apricots in the Urals in open ground, description of winter-hardy varieties and care

A set of preparatory measures and some nuances of cultivation

When starting to plant apricots in the middle zone and to the north, the gardener must correctly select the location on the site and adhere to the rules of technology.

How to choose a place to plant an apricot

Correctly defined location:

• located on a slight hill;
• protected from east and north winds, as well as drafts (for example, against a wall or fence);
• it is well warmed up by the sun - the heat received in the summer will help the seedlings survive the winter safely;
• the soil is rich in microelements and well drained;
• The groundwater level in the area is not higher than 2.5 m.

Attention! In winter, large amounts of snow should not accumulate in this place

Compatibility of apricot with other fruit trees

Apricot is considered to be an “individualist” - it does not tolerate proximity to most fruit crops common in the middle zone. Thus, planting it in close proximity to cherries, sweet cherries, pears, apple trees, rowan trees, and walnuts is extremely undesirable. Apricot and other large plantings should be separated from each other by at least 10 m.

Some stone fruits can become acceptable neighbors for apricots: cherry plum, sloe, dogwood, Russian or Chinese plum.

Advice! The best option for the middle zone is when apricot trees of the same or different varieties grow close to each other.

It should be remembered that the distance between apricots when planting a garden directly depends on their height. Tall and medium-sized trees are planted at a distance of at least 5 m. Low varieties can be placed in a checkerboard pattern, leaving approximately meter gaps between them.

Does apricot need a pollinator?

Depending on how apricot is pollinated, there are varieties:

• self-fertile (20–40% of ovaries are fertilized by their own pollen);
• partially self-fertile (10–20% of the ovaries are formed from their own pollen);
• self-sterile (able to fertilize less than 5% of their own ovaries).

Even for self-fertile apricots in the middle zone, the presence of nearby trees of a different variety, flowering and bearing fruit at the same time, can significantly increase productivity. For successful fruiting of self-sterile varieties, pollen from another variety of apricot is simply necessary.

Important! Gardeners are often interested in whether it is possible to plant a peach, plum or cherry plum to pollinate an apricot. Information on this matter is contradictory

It is reliably known that for successful cross-pollination it is best to plant 2-3 varieties of the same species nearby. Thus, it is most reliable to select a pollinator for apricots in central Russia among apricots, guided by recommendations developed for specific cultivars.

Preparing the soil for planting apricots

The planting hole for apricots should be large (about 0.8 by 0.8 m). The soil mixture for spring planting in the middle zone is prepared in the fall, and for autumn - at least two weeks before planting the seedling in the ground.

Mixture composition:

• humus (1–2 buckets);
• ash (about 1 cup);
• superphosphate (700 g);
• potassium sulphide (approximately 400 g).

A layer of drainage is poured at the bottom of the hole, then the prepared mixture is laid, a layer of ordinary soil is placed on top of it, and left until planting.

Planting apricot in autumn

It is believed that autumn planting is preferable for the middle zone. You just shouldn’t do it too late so that the tree has time to take root before frost sets in.

How to properly plant an apricot in the fall is worth considering in detail:

• in the chosen place you need to dig a hole 2 times larger than the size of the root system of the seedling;
• if the plant is in a container, you should water it well, then remove it along with a lump of earth;
• before planting an apricot with an open root system, it is recommended to keep the seedling for about a day in water or in a clay mash;
• place the tree in the hole, straightening the roots if they are open;
• fill the hole with soil and compact it;
• water the plant well (2-3 buckets of water);
• tie the apricot to a support (peg);
• mulch the surface of the tree trunk circle with dry soil, peat, sawdust.

Important! It is not difficult to determine at what depth to plant an apricot - the root collar of the seedling should be approximately 4 cm above the ground level

REATING THE ROOT COLLECTION OF APRICOT

My first acquaintance with apricot took place back in the 60s, when Mikhail Vasilyevich Makarov, a well-known experimental gardener from Krasnoyarsk at that time, shared with me a seedling of this crop. The tree was a hybrid form of a winter-hardy variety that could withstand frosts down to -45°. At first I didn’t believe it, because everyone knows that the apricot comes from the south. But then I became convinced that even in our difficult climate it can grow and bear fruit successfully.

Since then I have tried quite a few other varieties. There was everything - both success and disappointments - but I didn’t give up the business I started, “apricot growing”, and I continue to do it now. Some trees are already over 40 years old, and they continue to please with regular harvests. But I still consider the same old winter-hardy variety to be the highlight of my garden. It is good for everyone, although it (as, indeed, all modern winter-hardy varieties) has a weak point: the root collar warms up during winter thaws. I decided to get rid of this drawback by selecting some kind of “anti-decay” rootstock. In this capacity, I tried sloe, Yellow Khopty plum, cherry, zherdela (wild apricot) and Manchurian apricot .

And it turned out that for a cold but uneven climate, the most successful crop for apricot rootstock was the Yellow Khopty plum. Over many years of observation, it has never suffered from the root collar becoming warm, although up to a meter or more of snow falls in our winter.

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One minus: this plum produces a lot of excess growth, which constantly has to be cut out, but this, you see, is a rather small price to pay for the health of the fruit tree.

I graft on the most developed and strong plum shoot in early April with a cutting with two buds - in a split or side cut. But summer budding (from June 1 to June 15) works best at a height of 40-50 cm from the ground.

To do this, I take a bud from a new growth of apricot, cut from the middle part of some healthy shoot, and leave the plum shoot that is above the budding for now so as not to weaken the tree. When the bud sprouts next spring and this sprout stretches 10-15 cm, I cut out the plum shoot left last year and cover the wound with garden varnish. If everything is done correctly, the shoot from the bud reaches a length of 1 m over the summer.

I would also like to note that an apricot grafted onto a plum tree does not exceed 3-4 m in height, which is very convenient for collecting fruits and caring for the crown.

Basic rules for planting apricots

Gardeners have more than once had to grow a tree from apricot kernels. For these purposes, it is best to choose fruit material that grows in the area where the summer resident plans to plant his own garden. For propagation, it is recommended to take overripe apricots, from which the ripe pulp is easily separated. Their bones must be washed well and dried a little in the shade. You should not try to plant a seed in a pot. After all, such a home seedling will quickly die when it is planted in the ground. If a summer resident plans to plant a tree on one of the autumn days, then the seeds will need to be placed in water for a day before planting. Those that float to the surface will no longer produce any sprouts. You can throw them away immediately. All remaining material must be placed in a trench approximately 6 centimeters deep. The bones should be located 10 centimeters apart from each other. To speed up germination, you can dig a deeper trench and lay a couple of layers of humus, grass and sand on its bottom. Under no circumstances should garden beds be left open. It is recommended to sprinkle them with grass and humus. If the summer resident still plans to plant in the spring, then he should subject all the material to mandatory stratification. To do this, the bones are placed in a box with sand and placed in the refrigerator for the whole winter. You can speed up the process by placing the seeds in water for three days. It is advisable to change the liquid in the container with future seedlings every day. When the soaking is complete, the material will need to be placed in slightly damp sand. Afterwards, it must be taken to the basement. In April, as soon as the weather returns to normal, you can begin to plant the material in the ground. The soil for apricots should be prepared approximately 1–2 years before planting begins. It is advisable to treat the soil at maximum depth. This will make the fertile layer the richest and most beneficial for the plant. In the spring, it is recommended to dig up the soil using a shovel or cultivator. Soil that reaches at least 10 centimeters in depth should be cultivated. Subsequent digging can be carried out at a level of 8 centimeters. The number of cultivations in the summer directly depends on how often the gardener waters the area. Usually 4-5 times are enough. In the fall, the garden must be dug up to a depth of 20 centimeters. Near a tree you should not go deeper than 15 centimeters. In summer, it is sufficient to treat the cultivators to a depth of 10 centimeters. Caring for an orchard in the first year of its existence is very important. In the spring, the first shoots will begin to appear, which cannot always be ignored by birds and small rodents.

To protect apricots from pests, you need to carefully cover the plants with plastic bottles, the bottom of which will first be cut off. It is very easy to build such protection

In addition, it does not require any material investments. The bottles will not allow birds and rodents to harm green seedlings. Over the summer, the apricot will have time to grow well. This result will be achieved only if the summer resident does not forget to water his own garden in a timely manner. In September, when the seedling has finally become stronger, it can be transferred to a permanent place. It is desirable that it be sunny. By following these simple recommendations, you can grow a luxurious garden on your plot in a few years, which will delight you with a large number of fragrant fruits.

Honey

A tree of this variety can reach a height of 4 m and is distinguished by a voluminous and spreading crown. Small fruits grow on it. Their skin is yellow, with small red dots and slight pubescence. The pulp is medium dense, yellow in color, fibrous-grainy and sweet in taste.

The Honey variety, without shelter, can withstand temperatures down to -35°C, and in snowy winters - even -40°C.

Purpose Harvesting Tree height (m) Fruit weight (g) Productivity (kg per tree)

How to plant an apricot correctly

All the recommendations given above also explain how to plant apricots in the spring. The step-by-step instructions for this process are identical to the rules for autumn planting in the middle zone. However, it will be useful to know some features associated with the climatic region where the tree will grow.

Secrets of planting apricots in the Urals in spring

Here are a few subtleties regarding how to properly plant an apricot in the spring in the Southern Urals and care for it after planting:

during the period of thaws and snow melting, you should carefully monitor that water does not accumulate in the tree trunk circle; if a cold night is expected (spring return frosts or simply a sharp change in temperature), Ural gardeners advise carrying out smoking - setting fire to wet straw or a special smoke bomb in an area with trees; for better pollination, the crown of a flowering apricot is often sprayed with honey dissolved in water - this additionally attracts bees to it; common diseases in this region are clasterosporiasis and moniliosis, the main attention should be paid to the prevention and control of them; Even frost-resistant varieties of apricots growing in the Urals definitely need shelter for the winter.

Chelyabinsk gardeners V. and N. Chernenko share the secrets of growing apricots in the Urals in a video

Planting and caring for apricots in Siberia

What you should know when planning to grow apricots in the Siberian climate:

• At the planting site, it is recommended to additionally create an artificial elevation - pour a mound or a small earthen rampart;
• The quality of seedlings plays an important role - for northern climates it is best to buy them in containers, grafted onto frost-resistant rootstocks;
• It is not recommended to grow self-rooted apricots in Siberia;
• It is better to plant apricots in spring as early as possible, waiting for the soil to thaw by about 10–12 cm;
• in contrast to the general rules for the middle zone, pruning the plant “into a ring” is not allowed;
• in Siberia, apricots often suffer from hawthorn and clasterosporia blight, so prevention is very important.

Useful information on growing apricots in Siberia is presented in this video

Growing apricots in the middle zone: planting and care

Those who want to grow apricots in the temperate continental climate of the middle zone are given the following recommendations:

• in the middle zone, seedlings of regionalized varieties of local selection can be planted, both with an open root system and purchased in containers;
• the soil should be fertile - it is desirable that earthworms be found in abundance;
• in case of a prolonged, warm autumn in the middle zone, it is recommended to water the apricots with ash diluted in water so that the growth and ripening of the shoots stops before the cold weather;
• The most dangerous pests in this region are the codling moth, leaf roller and aphid; the most dangerous diseases are moniliosis, clasterosporiasis, Valsa's mushroom, cytosporosis, gum disease.

Advice from experienced gardeners on growing apricots in central Russia contains a video

Planting apricots in the Moscow region in spring

For growing apricots in open ground in the Moscow region, the same tips are relevant as for the regions of the middle zone. You can add the following to them:

• optimal areas for growing apricots are in the south, southeast and southwest of Moscow;
• in gardens that often lack sun, you can install a wooden shield behind the tree, painted with white and reflecting sunlight.

Important! The optimal time for planting apricots in the Moscow region is considered to be the end of April.

Climatic features of the Urals

Most of the Urals are represented by a mountain system, so this area belongs to a non-chernozem zone and is poorly adapted to fruit gardening. This is due to the continental climate, characterized by frequent weather changes and uneven precipitation. Rain, hail and strong gusts of wind may occur during a sunny day.

This area is characterized by harsh winters. At the same time, in different regions of the Urals there is a strong divergence in climatic conditions. Rocky soil also makes growing apple trees difficult. Therefore, in order for planting apple tree seedlings in the Urals in the spring to be successful, gardeners have to adapt and resort to various tricks.

How and when to prune an apricot

In addition to fertilizers, pruning has a strong influence on the growth and development of apricot trees. Under its influence, the size of the crown changes, as well as the ratio of the forming shoots. The formation of elongated fruit branches increases. At the same time, their foliage improves, which has a positive effect on their productivity and durability. Pruning also affects the root system. Correct, biologically based pruning of the above-ground part contributes to better development of the root system during all periods of the tree’s life. It activates the growth of suction roots, especially during critical periods. In addition, under its influence, the overall power of the root system increases, and more fibrous roots are formed.

After planting, deep pruning of the skeletal branches and trunk is carried out. For better fruiting of the branches, it is recommended that in the first years after planting, pinching the main shoots during the period when they have developed 12–15 leaves (in early June).

With the help of pruning, conditions are created for obtaining high yields of excellent quality fruit. Apricot pruning must be carried out taking into account the age and biological characteristics of the growth and fruiting of the tree in conjunction with its varietal properties.

Apricot is a fruit crop with high productivity potential, which manifests itself already 3-4 years after planting the tree in the garden. Unpruned trees age prematurely, the fruits become smaller, and diseases develop greatly. Trees without pruning have weak fusion of branches and break under the weight of the harvest. All this leads to periodic fruiting. Therefore, you should start pruning apricots from the first days of planting the tree in the garden. Pruning seedlings is necessary to restore balance between the root system, disturbed when digging seedlings in the nursery, and the above-ground part. This kind of pruning must be done. It provides for the correct placement of side shoots, their reliability, and the strength of fusion.

It is advisable to use seedlings grown in a nursery with one conductor, since this allows the formation of tiers of skeletal branches with a sparse arrangement of branches in the tiers or a plant already formed in the nursery. Pruning after planting should primarily prevent the formation of forks and is carried out depending on the degree of development of the planted trees to obtain aligned plantings.

It takes 3–4 years to create the crown shape before fruiting when growing and caring for apricots. Under natural conditions, apricot is characterized by a tiered arrangement of branches. When forming, branches should be placed in the crown at a distance of 20–25 cm from each other. If any branch develops more than the one growing lower, it is pruned further. Branches extending from the trunk at an acute angle must be deflected using spacers or twine, and those directed inside the crown must be cut to a side branch. Later, pruning regulates growth and fruiting.

When pruning fruit-bearing apricot trees, one strives to obtain new growths to replace old fruit formations and prevent exposure of skeletal branches.

Aging apricot trees, whose growth has remained up to 15-20 cm, are shortened to 2-3 years old wood, and if the growth remains up to 5-10 cm - to the branches of 3-5 year old wood. Such severe pruning is labor-intensive, but helps to improve the health of the tree and improve the quality of the fruit.

The degree of apricot pruning and its regularity have a significant impact on the characteristics of fruiting. With weak, irregular pruning, growth slows down every year, the intensity of the formation of flower buds decreases, and the results of overloading trees with harvest begin to appear more sharply. Apricot is not able to shed excess ovary, therefore, with weak and irregular pruning, it is easily overloaded, the fruits become smaller, lose juiciness and aroma.

When is the best time to prune an apricot tree? There are conflicting opinions about the timing of pruning. Most researchers believe that apricots cannot be pruned in winter, as there is a danger of the cut area drying out, being damaged by low temperatures, and causing gum formation. It is advisable to carry out the main pruning in the spring, when the danger of frost has passed.

Watch the video “Pruning an apricot tree in spring” to better understand how this agricultural technique is performed:

Hardy

The name of this apricot variety speaks for itself. The plant easily adapts to unfavorable conditions, while not only the tree itself is not afraid of severe frosts (due to the fact that it has thick bark), but also its buds, which in other varieties often die during spring frosts.

The tree grows quite large in a short period of time, but begins to produce crops only 5-6 years after planting. The fruits are medium in size, round in shape and golden in color with a coral tint. The skin is slightly pubescent, the flesh is very sweet and aromatic, orange in color.

Purpose	Harvest	Tree height (m)	Fruit weight (g)	Productivity (kg per tree)

Description of the plant

The apricot tree has a rounded crown 3.5-8 m high. The height of the trunk is from 0.5 to 1.5 m. The trunk and skeletal branches are covered with brownish bark; in shoots 1-2 years old, their color is brown or brown-red. On old shoots, the outer part of the bark cracks.

Apricot leaves are oval, with a slight point at the end. The leaves are 4-9 cm long and 3-5 cm wide. Along the edge they are covered with small teeth. The leaves have short (up to 3 cm) petioles.

The tree's root system is powerful and extensive. A few large root shoots penetrate to depths of 5 to 8 m, but most of the root system is relatively shallow (50 to 100 cm). Thanks to the extensive root system, the tree has good stability and does not break under the pressure of the wind.

A feature of apricot is its very early flowering, which always occurs before the leaves appear.

Heat-loving varieties begin flowering in March, adapted to temperate climates - in early/mid April. The flowers are up to 2.5 cm in size and are pollinated primarily by the wind, since most insect pollinators are still dormant.

On average, about 30% of flowers are set. Despite the fact that the plant is winter-hardy, the ovaries can suffer from return frosts (even at -1°C they can die, while flowers can withstand -6°C and buds -8°C). Vegetative buds bloom a week after the end of the flowering process.

The apricot fruit is a drupe surrounded by juicy and sweet pulp. The weight of the fruit can reach 80 g, however, the average weight does not exceed 25-30 g. The color of the pulp can have a wide variety of shades - from yellow-green to red-orange.

The skin of the fruit is thin, its color is usually slightly darker than the pulp. Most varieties have a “tan” or blush on the surface. Mostly the seed has a bitter taste; only some varieties can be eaten.

Apricot fruits of the Favorit variety

The fruits ripen in the second half of summer, but not later than the end of August. According to the ripening period, apricots are divided into:

• early - from the third ten days of June to the first ten days of July; varieties – Lel, Pineapple, Leskora, Alyosha
• mid-early or mid-season - from the first to second ten days of July; varieties – Akademik, Kichiginsky, Saratov ruby
• medium-term (the beginning coincides with mid-season varieties, and the end occurs in the third decade of July); varieties – Favorite, Aquarius, Triumph
• late - from the end of July to the end of August; varieties – Reklamny, Red-cheeked Nikitsky, Krasen of Kyiv, Iskra

The apricot tree is a long-liver. The average age, even without care, can reach 50 years. With proper care - up to 100 years.

Active fruiting also lasts a long time: it begins at 3-5 years of age and lasts 35-40 years

The tree is very hardy and frost-resistant. Unlike the related peach, many varieties of apricot (even those of exclusively southern origin) tolerate winter well. They are not afraid of frosts down to -20-25 degrees Celsius; in addition, they can survive for more than 2.5-3 months without watering.

Blackberry varieties for Siberia

The Rubus genus is grown on an industrial scale in North America. In Russia, it is planted mainly by summer residents in the Leningrad region, and in the Moscow region, and in the Far East, and in the Crimea.

Blackberries take root and bear fruit in Siberia:

• Taylor;
• Agawam;
• Lawton;
• Thornfree.

The varieties are valued for their large berries and decorative appearance. All of them can withstand frost, but in harsh climates they take shelter for the winter.

Early

In Siberia, it is recommended to plant blackberries, which ripen not in September, when it is already cold, but in early summer. The Eldorado variety takes root in regions with harsh climates. Erect bushes have long shoots covered with large thorns. In early June, the Giant blackberries ripen. The fruit weighs only 7 g, but the plant produces a good harvest and is valued for its high winter hardiness.

One of the new early hybrids, Black Butte, is distinguished by large fruits; individual specimens weigh 20–23 grams. The oval berries of Agawam blackberries are harvested in several stages. The bushes of this variety are of medium height, thick shoots, falling down, dotted with brown thorns. The plant can withstand frosts down to -30 °C.

With an average ripening period

In temperate climates, the blackberry variety Tupi takes root. An erect bush with small thorns is rarely affected by diseases and can withstand frosts under cover. The harvest ripens by early August. The weight of one berry reaches 9–10 grams. The Lawton variety is distinguished by its rapid ripening; in a favorable year, a whole bucket of small blackberries is harvested from the bush.

Late ripening

In regions where summers are short, varieties with early ripening are planted, but in the south of Siberia, Texas blackberries, bred by Michurin, are grown. In August, the creeping bushes ripen with aromatic, sour berries weighing about 10 grams, which can be canned and frozen.

Chokeberry blackberries must be covered for the winter. The harvest is harvested in the last month of summer and in September. One branch of the plant bears 15–17 small fruits.

Shade-tolerant

Blackberries take root in different conditions, but the taste of the berries deteriorates with a lack of light, in damp and rainy weather. The shrub loves the sun, but some varieties thrive in the shade. These include Agave, its advantages are called:

• exceptional frost resistance;
• high productivity;
• good berry taste.

The Thornless Evergreen variety grows in the shade. There are no thorns on the shoots of the plant. One cluster bears more than 60 small fruits.

Frost-resistant

Darrow blackberries adapt well to the cold winters of Siberia. An erect bush covered with thorns does not die at a temperature of -35 °C.

They have high frost resistance:

• El Dorado;
• Agawam;
• Snyder.

The American hybrid Thornfree pleases with large berries. A powerful plant with long shoots does not suffer from diseases and tolerates cold winters normally, but under cover.

Repairers

To increase the yield of blackberries, the bushes are thinned, leaving no more than 5 branches. In Siberia, where cold autumn quickly arrives, among the remontant varieties of plants, strewn with fruits, only a few take root - Black Magic and Ruben with large berries and good winter hardiness, as well as Prime Yang, adapted to unfavorable conditions.

Further care for young and mature trees

Apricots of any age need to be constantly looked after. Otherwise, you won’t be able to wait for delicious, aromatic fruits.

Apricot care includes the following procedures:

• watering and fertilizing;
• mulching;
• pruning;
• weed elimination and loosening;
• prevention of pests and diseases;
• insulation.

All agricultural activities are carried out according to certain rules.

Seasonal watering and fertilizing

In the first year after planting, regular and abundant watering is required. Humidity will ensure proper development of the root system. Next, the apricot is watered as needed.

In a dry spring, the tree needs to be watered generously twice, before flowering and a month after it. Watering is required 2 weeks before the fruits ripen. This will increase the juiciness and flavor of the apricots. Irrigation rate is 50 liters per 1 sq. meter. During drought, the volume of liquid doubles.

In the fall, when the leaves turn yellow, the trees are strengthened before the cold winter. To do this, increase the volume of water to 80 liters per 1 sq. meter. In cold regions, apricots are watered once every 2 weeks during the flowering period and during warming, using 5-6 buckets per 1 square meter. meter.

In the first year of its existence, apricots are not fed, as fertilizers were applied during planting. Spring feeding of 2-year-old trees contains chicken droppings diluted with water at the rate of 1 bucket of fertilizer per 15 liters of water. The composition is infused for several days, and then 10 liters of infusion are poured under the tree.

Before and after flowering, prepare the following solution:

• water – 10 l;
• potassium sulphide – 1 tbsp. spoon;
• ammonium nitrate – 2 tbsp. spoons.

Trees are watered with this mixture.

During the period of ripening and harvesting, water the roots with a nutrient composition, which is prepared from 3 tbsp. spoons of urea with the addition of superphosphate and potassium sulfate, taken 2 tbsp. spoons.

Loosening and mulching the soil

The first two years after planting, weeds are pulled out from the tree trunk circle, and the soil is loosened. In this state, the circle is covered with mulch made from peat, sawdust, and humus. With good watering, perennial cereal crops are sown in the tree trunk circle. As soon as the grass grows to 20-25 cm, it is mowed and used as green manure. Such organic feeding will only benefit the tree.

Trimming

The fruiting of the apricot tree depends on proper spring pruning. A crown is formed, after which lighting and heating improve. This affects crop growth.

First of all, weak and diseased shoots are removed. Annual branches are cut to half, after which shoots with new buds will appear, which will bear fruit. In the summer, after harvesting, the crown is rejuvenated.

Preventative treatments

Apricot is susceptible to diseases and pests. To prevent their occurrence, treatments are carried out with special mixtures and solutions. Fungicides, whitewashing with lime mortar, removal of affected branches, and burning are used.

Shelter in winter

Apricot trees planted in the north and in the middle zone are not resistant to negative temperatures and need shelter for the winter. To form a shelter, burlap, agrofibre, agrospan, straw, hay, pine or spruce branches are used. Shelter is provided with an influx of fresh air.

Young trees are completely insulated, unlike mature apricots, which do not really need shelter. In addition, the tree trunk circle is mulched.

Aftercare

If you take care of blackberries, even in harsh climates they will reward you with the first fruits. In order for the roots to be saturated with oxygen, you need to constantly loosen the soil throughout the entire area.

Irrigation

The first month or 2 after planting, the bushes need to be watered frequently. After the blackberries take root, the amount of moisture is reduced. But when the berries begin to ripen, once a week 2 buckets of water are poured under each bush.

Foliar and root fertilizer

In spring, blackberries need nitrogen, it is contained in urea. Every 2 years, a bucket of compost or humus is added under the bushes, and the stems and leaves are sprayed with Bordeaux mixture.

Support garter

Blackberries have very long shoots; after planting and pruning, they are fixed to the trellis:

• fan;
• wave;
• rope.

The shoots are attached to the wire in the center, and the fruiting shoots are directed to the side, woven together in twos or allowed to trail down. Tying it to a support using any of these methods makes pruning easier and makes picking berries easier.

Formation

If the bush produces flowers in the first year, it is advisable to cut them off. The following spring, the branches are shortened by 15 centimeters. In the summer, fruit-bearing shoots are cut off completely and excess growth is removed.

Shelter for the winter

Even cold-resistant hybrid crop varieties in Siberia and the Urals often freeze out. To prevent this from happening, in the fall they dig a trench where young branches are laid and covered with pine needles and sawdust. In the spring, before the buds appear, the plant is freed from covering material.

Apricot transplant

Transplanting an apricot has its own characteristics, which you need to know about so that everything goes well and the tree takes root.

You can replant the plant in both spring and autumn:

• spring apricot transplantation is carried out during the dormant period, before the buds swell: the advantage is sufficient soil moisture and warmth, which ensures rapid establishment in a new place;
• minus - the need for frequent watering and the risk for the plant to be unprepared for the winter cold;

Autumn replanting may be better for rooting the plant. The main thing is that it has time to take root before frost. You should not delay replanting in the fall.

It is highly undesirable to replant an apricot tree multiple times; ideally, only one replantation is possible if necessary. The age of the transplanted tree should not exceed 6–7 years.

The technology for transplanting an adult apricot is as follows:

1. In the fall, a planting hole is prepared with a diameter almost twice the size of the tree crown. The pit is prepared in the usual way with the installation of a drainage cushion and the addition of soil mixed thoroughly with fertilizers.
2. 3 hours before transplanting, water the apricot abundantly.
3. Dig the tree along the diameter of the crown to a depth of 80 cm.
4. Using several shovels or forks, lift a lump of wood and roots and move it onto the prepared burlap.
5. The lump is wrapped in burlap and bandaged to maintain its integrity.
6. Place the tree with a lump of earth in the prepared hole and fall asleep, slightly pressing the earth.
7. Make a roller around the trunk for watering.
8. The crown is trimmed a little to make it easier for the roots to cope with the load.

The aroma of apricot fruit, its excellent taste and benefits are of constant interest to amateur gardeners in all corners of the earth. It is grown even in Siberian conditions, and not without success. After all, most apricot varieties are frost-resistant, can withstand frosts down to –30 °C, and in hot regions they are not afraid of drought.

List of the best apricot varieties for the Urals

In one of our articles we talked about the best raspberry varieties for central Russia. Today we will pay attention to apricot varieties.

What varieties of apricots grow in the Urals? To grow apricots in this area, you need to choose varieties that are resistant to low temperatures.

The peculiarity of this region is its frosty winters; temperatures can drop below -40°C.

During the transition periods of spring and autumn, there is a large difference in temperatures between day and night.

For your information. Summer in this region is characterized by frequent rain and high humidity. Such conditions are not very favorable for fruit trees and often lead to the appearance of diseases. Therefore, not all varieties of apricots take root and bear fruit in the Urals.

Below are the best varieties of apricots for the Urals or Siberia.

Northern lights

It is best adapted for breeding in the Urals; it tolerates low temperatures well.

A tree of medium height and with a sparse crown.

The fruits of this variety weigh 25-30 grams with yellow skin and a reddish side, and medium-soft pulp, valued for their excellent taste.

Harvesting takes place on August 15-20, with an average of up to 20 kilograms of fruit. Too humid air in the growing region can lead to spoilage of fruits even before they ripen.

Variety Manchurian

The most hardened to long and severe frosts, it easily tolerates prolonged drought.

Manchurian apricot grows up to 15 meters in height, their crown is dense, so they are often used as hedges. The fruits are yellow or orange in color and have a sweet and sour taste.

Ideal for making compotes.

Sverdlovsk early variety of apricot

Suitable for the Urals due to its early ripening at the end of July. The yellow-skinned fruits weigh 45-50 grams and have a rich taste and aroma. Eat fresh or use for preparing preserves.

Sibiryak Baikalova

It is not afraid of frost and easily endures winter.

A tree of this variety grows up to 3.5 meters in height, and its sparse branches form a crown of about 4 meters in girth.

Ripening occurs towards the end of August. The fruit size is 25-35 grams, yellow with blush. 20-25 kilograms of harvest are harvested from one tree.

Apricot variety Red-cheeked

It can reach a height of 8 meters and has a beautiful spreading crown.

The fruits are yellow or orange with a red blush and a deep seam. Their pulp is very juicy and soft with a sweet, slightly sour taste.

The fruits of this variety are not stored for a long time, so it is recommended to pick them slightly unripe. From one tree you can get up to 100 kilograms of harvest.

Khabarovsk variety

The Khabarovsk apricot gained popularity among gardeners due to its high yield, good disease resistance, and ease of care.

The trees are low up to 5 meters with a spreading crown. The fruits are slightly flattened on the side, medium in size and green in color with red inclusions.

The yield of this variety is high - about 35 kilograms.

How to plant an apricot using a seed

To plant an apricot from a seed, you must follow all planting steps. It is necessary to properly prepare the planting material and soil, and carefully care for the emerging seedlings.

Planting material: selection and preparation

For planting, it is necessary to select high-quality fruits; they must be ripe (overripe) and sweet. When removed, the pit should easily separate from the pulp. Several seeds are harvested at once, since low germination is noted. The seeds must be thoroughly washed to remove the pulp and placed in water. Seeds that have burst into flames are empty, they will not germinate, they are thrown away.

The remaining planting material is placed in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for disinfection for 12-14 hours. Then the bones should lie in warm water for 10 days. Once a day you need to change the water to fresh water. The next technological stage, which is very important for cultivation technology, is stratification. There are artificial and natural hardening at low temperatures.

Natural stratification. If the seeds are not planted immediately, they must be dried in order to be preserved until autumn. To do this, they are placed in a plastic container or paper bag, sprinkled with damp sand, and placed in a cool place (basement or refrigerator) for 100 days. If you don't have sand on hand, you can use moss or sawdust. For storage, the optimal temperature should be from zero to +2°C. If mold is found on planting material, it must be treated with hydrogen peroxide.

Artificial stratification is used if the seeds have not undergone natural stratification. The bones are filled with cold water for 4 days, changing the water every day. Then they need to be sprinkled with damp sand and frozen a little. Before planting, you need to store the seed material at a temperature of about +3°C.

Complex seed preparation technology helps gardeners select the strongest specimens; in the future, the seedlings will be strong, hardy and viable.

Step-by-step scheme for planting seeds

How to plant apricot kernels correctly? What do you need to know to avoid mistakes when growing?

It is recommended to plant seeds in the fall. For natural hardening, planting is done not in pots, but in open ground. If the seedlings are grown at home, they will all be completely unadapted to the natural climate and may die in winter. Choose a planting site that is protected from drafts, illuminated and open.

Trenches are prepared in advance, where seeds of several varieties are planted in the fall to a depth of 5-6 cm at intervals of 10 cm. If planting apricot stones is carried out in the spring, the depth is reduced to 3-4 cm. Preference should be given to light soil mixed with humus and sand.

You can immediately plant the seeds in a permanent place without transplanting them in the future. Gardeners believe that this will give the future tree special endurance. The plant begins to bear fruit already in 3-4 years. With this method, several seeds are planted, and only the strongest seedlings are then retained.

When growing apricot indoors, you need to prepare a special soil mixture. Place a drainage layer on the bottom of the pot, then fill it with soil mixture (you can buy it from a store). Apricot kernels are placed in the ground to a depth of 5 cm

It is very important to water regularly to ensure the seeds germinate. You can cover the container with film, but then you must not forget about ventilation, since it can only be finally removed when shoots appear

It is necessary to place the pots in a warm and bright place (up to +24°C). In the summer heat, you can place the seedlings outside in partial shade. Grown seedlings can be planted in open ground only after a year. Can be left as a houseplant. Do not forget that apricot is a deciduous tree; in winter, pots with seedlings must be removed to a cold place for wintering.

If one-year-old seedlings are planted, in the spring you need to choose a windless and sunny place, preferably low-carbonate soil or loam. The proximity of groundwater is undesirable, given the fact that the root system is superficial.

Fertilizers are added to the soil. This can be potassium sulfate or superphosphate, wood ash or humus. They make holes, their size is 50x50 cm. Half of them are filled with soil, a seedling is placed there, the roots are straightened, soil is poured into the hole, which is then compacted. The plant is watered abundantly after making a soil roller around the seedling. For good apricot fruiting and pollination, it is recommended to plant at least 3-4 trees on the site. A gap of 2-3 meters is left between the seedlings.

Darling

A tree of this variety grows very quickly and reaches a height of 5 m. It is distinguished by a paniculate crown and straight shoots of medium thickness. Already 3-4 years after planting, aromatic fruits with bright yellow skin covered with red dots and sweet and sour yellow pulp ripen on the plant.

The Favorite variety is resistant not only to frost, but also to diseases, pests and bright sun.

Purpose Harvesting Tree height (m) Fruit weight (g) Productivity (kg per tree)

Planting East Siberian apricot in Siberia in spring

One of the most popular varieties of fruit crops recommended for growing in the Siberian region is the East Siberian apricot, which has excellent taste and large fruits, a round shape of a yellow-green hue, and a lateral blush.

To grow this miracle apricot in the garden, it is recommended to know how to properly plant apricots in spring in Siberia:

1. Careful selection of site. The fruit crop does not take root well on rough soil that does not allow air and moisture to pass through. Light soil with a slightly alkaline reaction is best suited. In winter, the landing site should not be heavily covered with snow.
2. The tree is best planted on a hilly hill or on a mountain slope.
3. The East Siberian variety is ideally suited to well-lit areas, protected from draft cold winds.
4. The groundwater level of the site should not be higher than 2.5 meters.

Note! To grow apricots, it is recommended to buy seedlings in specialized nurseries in Siberia and the city of Moscow, where qualified consultants will offer grafted trees adapted to the harsh Siberian climatic conditions. Although many gardeners prefer a different method of growing apricots and grow them specifically from seeds

It is recommended to plant the seeds in spring or autumn in small furrows, 5 to 7 cm deep; such shallow planting promotes rapid seed germination and the emergence of seedlings. As soon as the plants reach two years of age, they are transplanted to a permanent location in standard-sized planting pits. In early spring, after the snow melts, grown seedlings must be pruned, poorly overwintered branches removed and overgrown branches shortened. Cut marks are treated with garden varnish

Although many gardeners prefer a different method of growing apricots and grow them specifically from the seed. It is recommended to plant the seeds in spring or autumn in small furrows, 5 to 7 cm deep; such shallow planting promotes rapid seed germination and the emergence of seedlings. As soon as the plants reach two years of age, they are transplanted to a permanent location in standard-sized planting pits. In early spring, after the snow melts, grown seedlings must be pruned, poorly overwintered branches removed and overgrown branches shortened. Cut marks are treated with garden varnish.

Important! This sanitary pruning is performed annually.

How best to form a seedling

To properly form a fruit tree, you need to know the rules for pruning seedlings:

• When planting, the tap part of the root of an annual apricot is cut to 15-20 cm. This value is approximate and depends on the size and number of lateral roots, which are also recommended to be shortened to 20 cm.
• In order for the apricot to grow in the form of a trunk, its central conductor is cut so that at a height of more than half a meter there are from 12 to 16 buds left for the development of “skeletal” side branches.
• If the apricot needs to be formed as a bush, then in this case it is necessary to select several of the most massive shoots, evenly spaced in a circle, and the rest will have to be removed. The remaining shoots must be shortened by a quarter or a third of the length. There is one nuance in this pruning: the lower branches are trimmed less, and the upper ones - more.

Pruning of young apricot seedlings is carried out in order to form a strong tree crown with a uniform circular distribution of lateral “skeletal” branches with strong angles of departure from the trunk.

How best to form a seedling

Does common hazel grow in the Urals?

Common hazel, better known as hazel, is a fast-growing shrub, sometimes reaching 7 m in height, occasionally forming as a tree (in one trunk). The Latin name of the plant is Corylus avellana.

Did you know? It’s hard to believe when making your way through dense thickets of bushes or looking at its image in a photo, but the hazel tree is the closest relative of the famous Russian birch. Both plants belong to the Betulaceae family, which also includes hornbeam and alder.

In the wild, Corylus avellana is widespread in forests, forest-steppes and steppes of Europe, the Middle East, and the Caucasus. Thanks to its very high frost resistance, the shrub gets along well even in the Arctic Circle - thus, the harsh Ural climate is not an obstacle to cultivating the crop. True, for this purpose it is better to use not wild-growing hazel, but varietal hazel, that is, samples bred through long-term selective selection or hybridization (half-hazelnut). They are distinguished by the largest and most delicious fruits with a thin shell.

Diseases

It is worth thoroughly studying all possible plant diseases and preventive measures before planting an apricot. In the spring, sharp temperature fluctuations occur in the Urals, which makes trees too susceptible to various diseases caused by fungi and bacteria. The most common of them is moniliosis. The pathogens of this disease that fall on the flowers lead to their drying out and, moving inside the branch, affect all shoots. If measures are not taken in time, you can lose up to 80% of the harvest. All infected fruits and other parts of the plant should be removed immediately and the tree should be sprayed with Bordeaux mixture.

An equally dangerous disease is klyaskerosporiosis (hole spotting). First, small spots with a purple border around the edges appear on the leaves, which gradually turn into holes. On fruits, similar spots form scabs. Bordeaux mixture is also used for treatment, spraying swelling buds in the spring and tree branches after the leaves fall in the fall.

Verticillium wilt can cause the entire tree to dry out. The lower leaves turn yellow, fall off and, once in the ground, infect the roots of the plant.

Any disease is easier to prevent, so more attention should be paid to prevention. To do this, it is necessary to burn all infected parts of the plant, apply a sufficient amount of nitrogen fertilizers and prevent the soil from becoming waterlogged.

By following all the rules of agricultural technology and carefully looking at the trees in order to provide timely help, in general, it is not difficult to get a healthy apricot in the Urals. Growing, photos of damaged plants and treatment methods, proper pruning - all this must be carefully studied so that future harvesting can bring only positive emotions.

Collect black rags!

Over many years of observations, I have come to the conclusion that it is better to grow hybrid apricots by sowing the seeds immediately in a permanent place: this culture does not like transplants. At the same time, the varietal qualities change slightly, but the seedlings turn out to be more adapted to local conditions.

I plant apricots, if possible, on a hill or on a slope, where there is no accumulation of melt water and the snow cover is blown away by the winds (at least in such places its thickness rarely exceeds 1 m - a critical level for apricots). By the way, I advise everyone to shovel the very first snow that falls from the trunks so that the earth has time to set a little before the onset of real, persistent frosts. And for young trees, until they reach five years of age, I wrap the trunks tightly with film to a height of 50 cm from the ground.

I complained above about the ripening of apricots, but, in addition to this, they have another drawback - a short dormant period. It is because of this that during the same winter thaws, fruit buds can awaken, which then will inevitably die during the next cold snap. How to deal with this?

The well-known specialist I.L. Baikalov recommends pinching new shoots in June, so that the fruit buds do not wake up during winter thaws. I tried it and it definitely works!

As for pruning, I only remove dry or wind-broken branches from apricots. In general, I believe that these trees begin to bear fruit faster if their crown is not disturbed with pruners again.

Trimming

Growing apricots in the Urals, varieties of which produce high yields in these conditions, is impossible without pruning. This procedure is carried out in the spring. Branches growing inside the crown are removed.

Pruning stimulates the growth of new shoots, which are more fertile. It is on them that the bulk of apricots are formed. In addition, the risk of overloading the tree is eliminated. Pruning the crown allows you to regulate and shape it in the desired direction, so that a huge tree does not grow with a handful of fruits at the very top.

Usually the crown is formed according to a sparsely tiered type, when the branches are located at intervals of 35-40 cm. The most abundant fruiting occurs on shoots that are 2-3 years old. It is recommended to remove old branches in a timely manner. But you shouldn’t get carried away with too much pruning. This can lead to reduced yields.

Optimal planting dates

The most ideal time for planting apricot trees is spring, before sap flow begins and the buds begin to bloom. The optimal period is considered to be the second half to the end of April. It is advisable to choose the time when the spring rains begin. In this case, the survival rate of the seedling is 100%.

It is not recommended to plant a tree if the leaves have already bloomed. In this case, the seedling will either die quickly or will be sick for a long time and will require a long recovery period.

The best place to land

Apricot has a large crown, and the plant also loves light, so you should choose a sunny and open area. It is important that there are no drafts, otherwise the growth of the seedling will slow down.

If there is groundwater, the optimal permissible depth is 0.5-3 m. In this case, the possibility of the root system drying out is eliminated, and soil erosion will not occur.

Even the slightest shading of the apricot should not be allowed, as the fruits will be small in size and have minimal sugar content.

Step-by-step planting technology

First of all, it is necessary to properly prepare the seedling before planting, because this determines how well it will take root in the new place. You need to choose an apricot tree very carefully, choosing a specimen without visible damage to the bark and root system.

The rules for planting apricot seedlings are very simple; just follow these steps exactly:

1. First soak the roots in plain water, as they should be well saturated with moisture. It is better to carry out this procedure a day before the planned landing.
2. Lubricate the root system generously with a special mixture that is easy to make yourself - combine manure, water and clay. Then leave the seedling for a while until the roots dry.
3. Prepare the planting hole, be sure to add a layer of drainage to the bottom and pour in a little water. If you do not use drainage, there is a risk that the roots of the tree will begin to rot.
4. Place the prepared seedling strictly in the center of the planting hole. Perform all actions carefully so as not to accidentally damage the root system.
5. Cover the hole with soil and compact the soil a little. It is better to take an assistant who will hold the tree so that it stands straight and does not tilt.
6. Drive the support peg nearby, but not too close to the seedling, so as not to damage the roots. Tie the tree to the peg.
7. After planting, be sure to water the seedling.
8. Fertilize the soil around the apricot tree with humus or peat.

Strict adherence to each stage allows you to speed up the rooting process of the seedling and getting used to the new place of growth.

The gardener provided a video with step-by-step planting of an apricot seedling:

What mistakes do newbies make?

Neglecting the rules for planting an apricot tree can lead to its complete death. Most often, inexperienced gardeners make the following mistakes:

• A seedling with diseased roots is planted, which soon causes its death.
• The location for the apricot tree was not chosen correctly.
• There is no drainage layer in the planting pit, which negatively affects the development of the root system.
• Not enough water was used during planting.
• Frequently transplanting a seedling from one place to another leads to the death of the plant.

Planting apricots in spring is the optimal solution, because this is the most favorable time for this procedure. Following simple rules of crop care allows you to enjoy tasty and juicy fruits from your own garden for many years.

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