In recent years, growing strawberry seedlings from seeds has become increasingly popular. A bag of seed material is inexpensive; if you sow in February or early March, you will have your first harvest this year. The large-fruited strawberry Sashenka F1 has joined the collection of hybrids that can be easily grown from purchased seeds.
Description of the variety
The early ripe strawberry Sashenka will delight you with delicious fruits from early spring to late autumn. The first harvest can be obtained 1.5-2 months after planting young seedlings in the ground.
Sashenka has good germination. From 10 seeds in a bag you can get 6-8 seedlings, which is a very good result for strawberries
Bushes
A powerful plant with a height of 25-30 cm during the flowering period is strewn with large flowers. The berries ripen together on the main bushes and on young rosettes that have developed on thick long tendrils. The flowers are very beautiful, decorative - pale pink.
Berries
The berries of the Sashenka variety are large, with proper care reaching a weight of 30-40 g. The shape is conical, the color is red. The berries are juicy, sweet and sour, aromatic. Perfect for making desserts, children's fruit purees, jams.
Productivity
Productivity depends on the quality of care. The harvest is harvested in several waves, including from young rosettes. A total of up to 1 kg. fragrant fruits from the bush.
The harvested crop can be stored in the refrigerator for several days. There are no problems with long-distance transportation. The berries do not leak or become deformed.
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I want to share my experience in growing remontant strawberry seedlings. I'll start in order. In February of this year, I sowed store-bought seeds. Out of four bags of different varieties, only seven plants sprouted. I was upset by this result: after all, the packages indicated that this was high-quality planting material. And then I remembered that I had one stash in my bins. Two years ago I had such a generous harvest of remontant strawberries that I even put the berries through an electric dryer, then putting them in paper bags.
When I ate these gifts of summer in winter, I found seeds in the bags that had fallen off the fruits, which I did not throw away and put them aside just in case. And it turns out that she didn’t do it in vain!
I took the risk of sowing these seeds in containers with soil. And what do you think? They all sprouted and began to grow quickly. In May, I planted all the seedlings in open ground. But I didn’t admire the strawberry bed for long: the insidious return frosts seriously “shocked” my plantings. And then I sowed the remaining seeds directly into the ground between the frozen bushes (again I saved some of them, and again not in vain!). And they rose quickly, but very often. I fed them and, without replanting, left them until winter.
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We'll see how they survive the winter. But the main idea is this: in the spring there are already a lot of different seedlings to grow, but, as always, there is not enough space for them at home. And here it turns out that in the spring you can sow your prepared seeds immediately on a prepared bed, so that you can then calmly plant them in a permanent place. This is how tips on growing plants come unexpectedly.
Large-fruited strawberry Lyubasha deserves special attention. Thanks to its juicy, aromatic fruits and easy care, summer residents often want to see it on their plots. This variety is characterized by good yield and unpretentiousness. To enjoy berries throughout the season, it is enough to follow a number of simple rules.
a brief description of
Advantages of the variety
- balanced sweet and sour taste;
- rich aroma;
- large fruit;
- the ability to obtain a harvest in the year of sowing;
- ease of reproduction;
- good winter hardiness (there are reviews about the absence of attacks when grown in Siberia with frosts of -45C);
- drought resistance;
- good adaptation to any soil composition;
- resistance to adverse weather conditions;
- extended fruiting period;
- high yield.
Disadvantages of the variety
- sensitivity to waterlogging;
- tendency to quickly overgrow the plantation.
Compliance with standard rules for caring for strawberries will allow you to avoid these shortcomings.
Landing
Planting of ready-made seedlings grown from purchased seeds or obtained from mustaches can be done from early spring to mid-autumn. In the spring you need to wait until the soil warms up, and in the fall you need to wait 3-4 weeks before the first frost.
A spacious area is allocated for Sashenka in a sunny part of the garden, protected from strong winds. The variety is undemanding to soil quality, but on fertile black soil the yield will be higher. 6-10 kg of rotted manure, 120 g of potassium sulfate, 100 g of superphosphate are added per 1 m2. In the absence of manure, you can use a complex mineral fertilizer with a low nitrogen content, most often such fertilizers are called “autumn” fertilizers, consumption rate: 20-50 g/m2.
Enough space is left between the plants so that you can get an additional harvest from the young rosettes on the tendrils:
- 30 cm between bushes;
- 60 cm between rows;
- The rows, for more uniform illumination, are arranged from north to south.
When planting, you need to make sure that the heart is not covered with soil and remains at ground level. The roots should not bend upward; it is better to trim long roots rather than bend them.
The plantings are watered abundantly and mulched with a thin layer of hay so as not to interfere with the rooting of rosettes that quickly form on the planted bushes.
Sowing
Since the Irishka variety does not throw away its mustache, strawberries are propagated by sowing seeds for seedlings. Irishka seeds have a 50% germination rate, so compliance with sowing rules plays an important role. Sowing of seedlings is carried out from the beginning of February until April in containers with prepared soil mixture. The soil for sowing seedlings is prepared with the following composition:
- 3 parts good humus;
- 2 parts of garden soil (crumbly, without lumps or roots);
- 1 part peat from the store.
Fill 10 cm of seedling boxes with this mixture and disinfect them with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Then, using a ruler, at a distance of 4 cm, draw grooves 3 cm deep, and lay strawberry seeds in them at intervals of 2 cm. Do not sprinkle the seedlings with soil. Cover the boxes with plastic wrap and place them in a warm place, with a temperature of at least 22 degrees Celsius.
Watering is done very carefully, using a spray bottle or syringe, making sure that the seeds are not washed off the surface of the soil base. The film must be removed to ventilate the seedlings for several hours, preventing condensation from appearing on its surface
When shoots appear, the film is removed.
When the seedlings produce 5-6 good leaves, the strawberries are ready to be planted in open ground.
Growing and care
Care measures are standard. Regular watering, loosening, removing weeds and fertilizing 2-3 times per season will be required.
Watering
In the absence of natural precipitation, Sashenka strawberries are watered every 3-5 days, after the soil dries out a little. Due to prolonged waterlogging, the berries become watery and sour. Since strawberries bloom almost constantly, it is advisable to organize a drip irrigation system.
Loosening, weed control
Strawberry Sashenka absolutely cannot stand being in the vicinity of weeds. Weeding must be done regularly. Surface loosening of the soil (to a depth of 3-4 cm) has a beneficial effect on the nutrition of the roots and prevents the development of weeds.
Removing a mustache
If space allows, rosettes are left to obtain additional harvest. It is necessary to ensure that the bed does not thicken. The excess mustache is cut off so that a stump of 3-5 cm remains.
Top dressing
Fertilizing strawberries should include organic matter and mineral water-soluble components. The Sashenka variety is fed according to the following scheme:
- after the snow melts, 0.5 liters of mullein solution (1 kg per 10 liters) is added under each bush;
- in May, the bushes are watered at the root with potassium nitrate (1 teaspoon of the substance per 10 liters). Each plant should receive 0.5 feeding;
- in August, wood ash is scattered in the root circle and incorporated into the soil by loosening.
An effective fertilizer for strawberries in the spring and summer is nettle infusion. A bucket or barrel is filled with green mass to two-thirds of its volume. Fill with water and cover. After 3 days, the infusion is diluted 1:10 and the strawberry beds are fertilized. This procedure can be combined with watering 3-5 times per season.
Pest and disease control
Garden strawberry Sashenka has high immunity to diseases. With prolonged exposure to stress factors, it may weaken. A predisposing condition is prolonged waterlogging, which causes root rot and fungal infections. Viruses are also often carried by aphids, which must be destroyed promptly.
When growing strawberries in greenhouses, there is a danger that the plants will get powdery mildew. Powdery mildew can kill more than half the crop.
Diseases are easier to prevent than to treat. Preventive measures include the following:
- In early spring and after fruiting, plants are sprayed with a 1% solution (a 3% solution can be used before the growing season) of Bordeaux mixture. If there is a danger of a fungal disease outbreak, the treatment is repeated.
- After prolonged rains, the bushes are sprayed with a slightly pink solution of potassium permanganate.
- Dill, fennel, lemon balm, mint, garlic, onions, marigolds and calendula are planted around the beds, which serve as natural fungicides and repel pests.
- Do not allow the beds to become overgrown with weeds.
- Dry leaves are removed in a timely manner, old and diseased plants are uprooted and destroyed.
A popular folk remedy for the prevention of diseases of berry crops is an infusion of onion peels. 500 g of raw materials are poured into 10 liters of water and infused for 3 days. Treatments with infusion are performed weekly.
Preparing for winter
In the fall, the beds are inspected and old bushes that are more than 3 years old are removed. Straw mulch, pine spruce branches, and spunbond on low arches are used as shelter from frost. If Sashenka’s strawberries were grown in containers, the plants are brought onto the veranda or put into outbuildings where the temperature does not drop below -3…-4℃.
Reproduction
Bushes age very quickly and lose their ability to produce crops, so you need to think about rejuvenating the plantation in advance. Sashenka belongs to the F1 hybrids, so it will not be possible to collect seeds from the fruits. The new plant will not inherit all the characteristics of the variety. For propagation, they buy seeds from breeders or propagate the variety with whisker rosettes.
The strongest are considered to be the first and second order sockets. Experienced gardeners plant strawberries in advance with ribbons in order to guide the tendrils between the rows and propagate the variety. In the future, the old bushes are uprooted, the young ones are left. This agrotechnical technique allows you to always have young, strong plants on the plantation.
Reviews
I see no point in planting strawberries with seeds. In 2016, I became very excited about the idea and bought several varieties. As a result, the bushes from one bag grew different. It seems that not all varietal characteristics are transferred when strawberries are planted by seeds. For example, Sashenka seems to be a variety from SeDek, but it is not on the State Commission website, so it turns out that it was not registered in Russia. Anything can happen and no one will be responsible for it.
The high-yielding and large-fruited Sashenka strawberry is suitable for growing in regions with difficult climates. In cold areas, the fruiting season is extended with the help of film cover. Strawberries are tasty, beautiful, and not difficult to care for. Thanks to these qualities, it attracts gardeners and is considered one of the best early ripening varieties.
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Growing strawberries from seeds is becoming increasingly popular. Why?
- Some varieties of strawberries produce little or no mustache, and often they are more productive than their counterparts, which are distinguished by “increased mustache,” and they are easier to care for (no need to remove the mustache).
- Any gardener strives to regularly update strawberry plantations. But a large assortment of ready-made seedlings is available only in large garden centers, and seeds can be bought at a nearby “country” store or ordered from the catalogs of specialized mailing companies. In addition, seeds are cheaper than seedlings, not to mention “free” seeds collected from your garden.
- Seedlings grown from seeds are always physiologically younger than those propagated vegetatively; they are not infected with a virus or mite, which means they will bear fruit longer and more abundantly.
- Varieties and hybrids of small-fruited (alpine) remontant strawberries are presented in abundance on seed counters. They are inexpensive - a great opportunity to try out new products every year and choose your favorites.
- Own seeds - it is better to collect them from varieties, and not from F1 hybrids, then they produce offspring that are not inferior in quality to the parent plants. Plants from your own seeds must be tested and the best selected.
- Varieties and hybrids of large-fruited garden (pineapple) strawberries are popular and still quite expensive. But the opportunity to get healthy, strong plants that are superior to those propagated vegetatively is worth it.
Seeds of remontant large-fruited strawberries: varietal novelties
The most commonly sold varieties of small-fruited strawberries (Fragaria vesca) have the aroma of wild berries. However, with the growing popularity of “seeding” seedlings, more and more seeds of large-fruited varieties of garden strawberries, or strawberries (Fragaria x ananassa), are appearing on the market.
