Features of the climate of Siberia
In Western Siberia the climate is sharply continental, and the weather conditions in the eastern part of Siberia are influenced by the relief features.
Winters in the macroregion are long and frosty, and summers are short. But such conditions also have advantages for gardening. The grapes are resistant to pests and are not susceptible to diseases. In Siberian conditions, it is not affected by the dangerous phylloxera aphid. Despite the climate, early and some mid-season varieties grow successfully and produce a harvest, provided that the vine is covered and protected from freezing.
Timing for covering grape bushes in Siberia
Siberian autumn takes a short period of time, no more than two months, and quickly turns into a harsh, long winter. For this reason, they begin to cover the grapes at the end of September - beginning of October in order to catch them before the first frost. But there's no need to rush.
You can remove the vine from the trellis earlier, but it is better to wait until the leaves fall and do not pick them off yourself. At this time, complex biochemical processes take place in the vine for the complete ripening of shoots and buds.
At what temperature should you cover grapes?
There is no need to wrap the entire bush at once. Temperature changes can cause condensation to form and dampen the plant. A period is needed when the fluctuations in sub-zero temperatures will pass - before the snow falls. It is useful to harden the plant at -5...-8°C. Finally, the grapes can be covered at a constant temperature below -10°C.
Reference. In Siberia, the covering of grapes is completed by mid-October.
Landing
Methods for cultivating grapes in Siberia have been developed for several decades, identifying new plant growing technologies and conducting an extensive selection of seedlings.
The place for the vineyard is chosen to be sunny, without shading, and dry, without stagnant water. Any shadow leads to a weakening of the ripening of berries. Bushes are planted near the south side of buildings if it is possible to monitor the planting in winter.
If the grapes are left unattended for the winter, then it is not advisable to plant seedlings near the wall of the house, since the snow cover there is low.
When choosing how to plant grapes in Siberia, you cannot neglect developed and tested methods. Agricultural technology for viticulture, created for traditional growing areas, is not suitable for the Siberian region. Only one planting method is used here - in-depth.
Important! The first task of the winegrower is to grow good roots and protect them from freezing.
Due to their covering nature, planting grapes in Siberia is usually done in prepared trenches or boxes. How to plant a grapevine correctly is the main issue in cultivating this plant. The trench performs only one function - providing protection from the cold. They are made 40-60 cm wide and 20-30 cm deep.
Boxes are the same trenches, only they are not buried in the soil, but are made above the surface. Their walls are insulated with a layer of clay to protect them from frost. In boxes, the growing season begins 10-12 days earlier.
A hole for planting a seedling is dug 80 cm deep. It is not made on fertile lands; such planting is used only on thin soils. 10 cm of crushed stone is poured into the bottom of the hole and filled with soil mixed with humus, sand and peat. The seedling is not immediately buried to its entire height. They do this gradually, growing the shoot and roots at the same time.
Grapes in Siberia are planted according to a 2.5x2.0 m pattern. The roots grow strongly and need a large area of nutrition, and the vine needs good lighting.
For planting, seedlings are prepared from the scion of early southern varieties and the rootstock of winter-hardy Amur or American grapes. Such a seedling is protected from frost by the most winter-hardy part of the vine - the roots. Winter-hardy varieties can be propagated from own root cuttings.
Important! The best time to plant a grape seedling is June 5-15, when the ground is warmed to +18° C.
In April-May, with high positive air temperatures, the ground is still frozen. And the planted seedling freezes in development.
Growing fruit grapes in Siberia for beginners starts with choosing a suitable, low-maintenance variety. It could be a Riddle, Rusball, Delight.
Descriptions of grape varieties that do not require deep knowledge can be found in many books written by the founders of northern viticulture. For example, in the book “Northern Viticulture of Russia” by F.I. Shatilov.
Planting and care are carried out according to a certain developed system, deviating from which one cannot obtain either a healthy and strong plant or a good harvest.
Why cover the vine
Grapes intended for growth in the north are able to withstand frosts from 20°C to 30°C, thanks to the buds being at rest. These include the varieties Muromets, Solovyovsky, Tukan, Kodryanka, Scarlet Muscat.
The Amursky variety is a record holder for durability: it is able to survive a 45-degree winter. The most dangerous period is spring frosts. It is then that the buds, as well as young, unhardened shoots, need warmth and favorable conditions. A sharp change in temperature can destroy a sensitive plant: this phenomenon poses an even greater danger than severe frost. The thaw causes the awakening of grape sprouts; it will not survive the following frosts.
Freezing of the soil to -20°C is fraught with the death of the fibrous root system of grapes. Unlike the above-ground part, it will not be able to recover. Frail seedlings suffer when the temperature drops just a few degrees below zero.
To protect the grapes, in cold regions the owners have adapted to covering them for the winter. Otherwise, from 70 to 100% (depending on the severity of the frost) of the buds may die: their presence in such temperature conditions is possible for no more than 3 days.
How to prepare grapes for shelter in Siberia
Preparing the bush for winter begins in September immediately after harvesting. It includes pruning, watering, fertilizing. The growth of the vine and next year’s harvest depend on how the plant overwinters.
Trimming
Pruning makes it easier to cover the vines. The best time for the procedure is mid-September, but at least 1-2 weeks after harvest, so that the plant has time to recover. If by that time the bush has not dropped its leaves, they are shaken off by hand. If you prune before leaf fall, the vine will lose its plasticity. Such branches will break when placed in a trench.
Trim the vine down to living wood - its cut should be light green. 1-2 cm of shoot are left above the living bud. After pruning, a certain number of buds should remain on each fruit branch, depending on the thickness of the shoot:
- 5 mm – 5 pcs.;
- 6 mm – 5-6 pcs.;
- 7 mm – 7-8 pcs.;
- 8 mm – 8-9 pcs.;
- 9 mm – 9-11 pcs.;
- 10 mm – 11-13 pcs.;
- 11 mm – 12-14 pcs.;
- 12 mm – 13-15 pcs.
30% of spare eyes are left on the plant in case of freezing.
Important! Fruit-bearing shoots are shortened by 60-90%.
Watering
The frequency and abundance of moisture depends on the composition of the soil. Sandy substrate requires frequent but moderate watering. Clay soil is watered rarely and abundantly. After harvesting, watering can be stopped for a while. This imitation of drought will accelerate the ripening and lignification of the vine, and the grapes will overwinter better.
Moisture-recharging irrigation is carried out at the end of September, on the last sunny days. After it, the lashes will be saturated with moisture, become flexible, and will be easy to bend to the ground. For fruit-bearing plants, the norm is 100-150 liters per 1 square meter. m landings.
Top dressing
During the growing season, the plant uses up its entire supply of nutrients. To set the buds of the future harvest, it is necessary to fertilize it:
- Spill the soil with a solution of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers (20 g and 10 g per 10 liters of water).
- Once every three years, the following composition is applied to the bush: 1 kg of chernozem, 30 g of superphosphate, 30 g of potassium fertilizer.
- You can add boric acid, potassium permanganate, iodine and zinc sulfate to water for irrigation, but not more than 15 g of each substance per 10 liters of water.
Before winter, grapes should not be fed with nitrogen-containing mineral compounds, which cause rapid growth of green mass.
Treatment against diseases and pests
Fungal spores found on bark and foliage survive at sub-zero temperatures. To prevent their re-spread, it is necessary to carry out preventive spraying with 1% copper sulfate. In the fight against oidium and mites, the drugs “Nitrophen” and “DNOC” are suitable.
Grape pruning
When to cover roses for the winter in the Moscow region
Before wintering, grapes must be pruned. This process greatly simplifies covering the plant.
Pruning must be done at a certain time - when the grapes have shed all their foliage. If this procedure is carried out too early, the stems will lose flexibility, which will lead to their brittleness when laid in a special trench for wintering.
The most suitable time for pruning grape vines is considered to be mid-September.
However, the procedure should be carried out with extreme caution, since by this time the branches become fragile
Also, after pruning, it is necessary to cut off excess branches. There is still no benefit from them, besides, they greatly shade the plant and prevent it from fully breathing and ventilating. Only 30% of spare eyes are left on the stems. They are needed in case of death of the main shoots from frost or rodents.
Important! Fruiting stems are cut off by 60–90%.
But the young vine must be cut out completely, since when frost occurs it will immediately die.
This is done in the fall, when the plant has not yet shed its leaves. The first frosts hit the vine, which contributes to its hardening and easy transfer of winter cold.
The plant can only be trimmed with clean and sharp pruning shears.
What time to cover the vine
Before the actual procedure of preparing a winter shelter, it is important to take care of the vine. It is cut, removed from the trellis, treated with copper sulfate, charged with moisture and fed.
Traditionally, Siberian frosts occur at the end of September and the first half of October. Right before the expected snowfall, they are engaged in equipping a warming structure (with a temperature from -5°C to -8°C), as well as hardening off the bushes. You should not rush to organize the shelter: as temperatures fluctuate, condensation may accumulate on the vine and the grapes will dry out. To prevent such situations, ventilation windows are made on the sides of the structure.
You can temporarily cover the plant using the following algorithm:
- pruning a grape bush;
- digging a trench;
- mulching the soil in the trench to prevent weed germination and pest invasion;
- a bunch of shoots and laying them out at the bottom of a dug hole;
- covering the trench with polyethylene or similar material.
Such a shelter can protect grapes from frost, gives them the opportunity to accumulate sugar for a month and a half and thus harden.
Autumn pruning of vines depending on the age of the vineyard
Already in the first autumn, the shaping of the grape bush begins. Any molding carries with it the goal of growing four strong branches, two of which will bear fruit in turn.
For this purpose, during the first four years of the bush it is necessary:
- In the first year, cut off the top of the shoot, leaving 2-3 buds above the ground.
- During the second year of life, a second branch should form. It and last year's plant are cut to 4 buds.
- In the third year of the bush’s life, it is necessary to act according to the situation. If the bush has only two full branches, they need to be cut into two buds. If there are three branches, cut one into 2 buds, and leave 4-5 on two. For a well-developed shrub with four vines, two branches should be cut down to 4 buds, leaving 6 buds on the remaining two. Moreover, you need to cut it symmetrically - on the right and left there should be one short and one long branch.
- In the fourth year, the skeleton of the plant is formed - four full arms. This and subsequent prunings should follow the same principle. There should be two shoots left on each sleeve - one shoot will be long, from 4 to 10 buds (arrow), it will produce a harvest for the next year. The second shoot will be short, with 2-3 buds (replacement knot). The replacement knot will produce fruitless shoots next year, which will become shoots the following year and will bear fruit.
Important! Any pruning must be done with a thoroughly disinfected tool. All subsequent pruning is based on the principle - fruit-bearing branches are cut short, there will be no fruit on these branches next summer
And those branches that did not bear fruit this summer are left with buds - they will have berries next summer. Every year the arrow changes places with a replacement knot. For proper distribution of juice and energy consumption, the arrow on the sleeve (main branch) should always be higher than the replacement knot
All subsequent pruning is based on the principle - fruit-bearing branches are cut short; there will be no fruit on these branches next summer. And those branches that did not bear fruit this summer are left with buds - they will have berries next summer. Every year the arrow changes places with a replacement knot. For proper distribution of sap and energy consumption, the arrow on the sleeve (main branch) should always be higher than the replacement knot.
Disinfection of covering material
Non-woven material does not need to be disinfected. But it’s better to process the natural one:
- Dry leaves. It is raked around the trunk and treated with fungicides (Maxim, Oksikhom, Fundazol) or Bordeaux mixture against spores of pathogenic fungi.
- Straw. Herbs are added to it to repel rodents. This is wormwood, marigold, tansy.
- Spruce branches themselves have disinfecting properties.
- Wooden flooring, mats, straw mats are treated with a solution of copper sulfate in a proportion of 10 g per 1 liter of water.
Covering methods
How to cover grapes for the winter in Siberia? There are many types of shelter. Each gardener decides for himself which method to use. Slate, cardboard, natural materials, and snow are used for shelter.
The influence of climate on the choice of method
In regions with a changeable climate, where winter is accompanied by thaws and rains, air-dry shelters are made for grapes. Guaranteed protection against freezing, getting wet and icing is provided by the tunnel method. In regions where there is little snow, it will not be possible to use a shelter made of snow and earth.
Near-standard instillation
This type of shelter is used for young plants. A vine older than a year cannot be covered in this way. The branches of the vine are fastened together and bent. The standard is buried in a layer of earth 20-25 cm high.
Half cover
This method is used for frost-resistant varieties in the harsh conditions of Siberia.
Procedure:
- Remove the vine from the support.
- Lay on the ground.
- Cover with agrofibre.
Full Cover
Used for young plants and regions where winter temperatures drop to -20°C. They use earth and snow for protection.
Snow
Snow acts as a natural insulator that protects bushes from freezing. The vine is bent to the ground, the hole is covered with earth, and then covered with snow. Every centimeter of snow provides one degree of heat to the plant.
Earth
The oldest and most reliable method. A trench is dug along the row using a shovel, tied vines are placed and covered with an earthen mound 15-20 cm high.
This method has a drawback: the plant can sap, since there are no vents.
Straw or reed
This method refers to the trench method. Dig a trench along the plantings, lay the vines tied in a bunch, and cover the top with straw or reeds.
The method is not very suitable for winter shelter in Siberia, as it may attract mice.
Leafy
The foliage is collected around the bush and placed on top of the vine, 30-35 cm thick, thereby protecting the roots from freezing. But first it must be treated with fungicides, for example, “Fundazol”, “Oxychom” or Bordeaux mixture. A film is stretched over the layer of leaves.
Needles
This is not the best insulation. The needles get wet, freeze, preventing the vine from breathing, and provide poor insulation.
Other materials
Instead of pine litter, it is better to use spruce branches. Coniferous branches allow air to pass through well, disinfect and repel rodents.
Sawdust is also used, but it must be covered with film. This is not a very good option, as the material attracts mice.
Important! Calcium carbide is placed under winter shelters, which repels rodents.
Dry shelter
The safest and most common way. The vine is also bent to the ground, but it is laid on non-woven material or any dry organic matter. This allows the vine to not come into contact with the ground and remain dry. The insulation is pulled over the top, leaving an air gap between the plant and the shelter.
Slate
Slate prevents precipitation from entering the vineyard. A film or agrofibre is laid under the vine and insulated with spruce branches on top. The entire structure is covered with slate.
Film
The material is pulled over metal arcs. It turns out to be a low greenhouse. Cardboard or planks covered with spruce branches or straw are laid under the vine.
Ruberoid
Roofing material is used in the same way as film, or combined with wooden panels. Wooden shields are installed over the laid grapes and covered with roofing felt on top. The design resembles a gable roof of a house. Secure with sprinkled earth.
Boxes
The boxes are used in the same way as roofing felt, or they are attached to metal arches, like a film.
Other materials
You can use polystyrene foam. The bush is insulated with pine needles, covered with pieces of foam plastic and wrapped in polyethylene. In the spring, the polystyrene foam is removed, and the pine needles are left as mulch.
You can wrap adult plants with several layers of agrofibre and secure with twine. A layer of snow is well retained on its surface.
Which method is preferable in Siberia
In Siberia, they prefer the dry method of covering using available materials. Dig a trench or install greenhouses. When preparing for winter, much attention is paid to the root system. The trunk circle is covered with spruce branches.
How to cover grapes for the winter
This is how Viktor Tatievsky himself does it
- Spreads polyethylene on the ground.
Victor Tatievsky
Polyethylene becomes a barrier between the vine and parasitic fungi and microorganisms in the soil, which lead to the formation of mold and damping off. While studying the physiology of grapes, I found several more ways to create such a barrier: pouring an even layer of sand, laying roofing felt... Any wrapping of the vine (in a covering material, in a polypropylene bag) will also create such a barrier.
But, according to Viktor Vasilyevich, polyethylene in the design of a winter shelter has an important advantage - it significantly reduces the humidity of the vine. The photos below show the opening of grapes in the spring of 2017. We see that the huge puddles in the shelter did not damage the vine in any way; it is dry and clean.
- Places the vines on polyethylene, tying them into bundles with ropes if necessary. If wrapping is planned, then tying into bundles is necessary.
- Covers the vine from above with covering material and insulation.
Victor Tatievsky
If the winegrower expects that the winter will be cold, frosts will come early, and there will be little snow at this time, it is better to use 4-6 layers of covering material. If other insulation is used: spruce branches, bags with foam chips, sawdust or leaves, then 1-2 layers of covering material will be sufficient.
Our expert has been using No. 60 agril bags with foam chips for several years. For reliability, the agrill is folded in two layers.
Bag dimensions: unfolded: length 2 m, width 0.7 m, thickness 0.1 m (150 liters of foam chips are poured into the bag).
The bag turns out to be very light, it is easy to give it the desired shape, it does not put pressure on the vine, does not cake and does not get wet. The chips can be purchased from a building supply store or from a foam board manufacturer.
- Another layer of covering material is placed on the bags so that they remain clean after wintering, and another layer of polyethylene is placed on top.
Victor Tatievsky
Polyethylene protects the vine from precipitation. And two layers of polyethylene, at the bottom of the shelter and on top, create the effect of a double-glazed window and retain heat well.
Damping off with this design of winter shelter for grapes is excluded.
Victor Tatievsky
All moisture comes from the soil, and if there is polyethylene below, there will be no damping off. But in the spring the top polyethylene will need to be removed.
This is an axiom: if the grapes are covered with an airtight material on top, it must be removed in early spring.
Victor Tatievsky
I remove the polyethylene in early spring and leave only two layers of covering material, adding polyethylene only when necessary.
What to do in spring
In the spring, as the snow melts, the insulating structure can be dismantled. In the first days of a steady thaw, the snow-retaining devices are removed, and after the snow has completely melted, the waterproofing layer can also be removed. The main shelter is removed only at the end of the second half of April, after which the vine can be lifted from the trench and hung on supports for further ventilation. As soon as the shoots are sufficiently dry, the attachments of the bunches are removed and the branches are placed back in the trenches to be covered again when necessary. Returning frosts are a common occurrence in Siberia, so there is no hope for early warmth.
It will be possible to finally open the grapes and secure them again on the supports no earlier than the middle or even the end of May. In general, caring for vineyards in harsh climates involves performing the same actions as when growing in the rest of Russia, albeit with a slight shift in the usual timing. Having properly prepared the vine for wintering, you don’t have to worry about its safety until the new season, which means you won’t have to doubt the abundance of the future harvest.
Common Mistakes
Failure to comply with the deadlines and technology for preparing for winter can destroy the grapes:
- Early cover. The vine needs to be given time to harden, so it will better survive the winter. First, make a temporary shelter, and when a stable temperature is below -10°C, you can wrap the bushes.
- Contact with the ground. In Siberia, it is better to use the dry method, when a layer of spruce branches, leaves or non-woven material is laid under the laid vine. This way the vine has a better chance of not resisting.
- Hasty release from protection in the spring. Don't rush to get rid of the covering material. Return frosts are dangerous for young buds. Release the grapes when the snow has completely melted and the temperature has reached above zero.
