How to acidify soil for blueberries: there is only one sure way!

Soil for planting blueberries

In a forest environment, blueberries grow near swamps or rivers, but garden berries do not develop well when the soil is very moist. What peat to use for blueberries, what place on the site to choose for planting the bush?

The cottage should be well lit and windless. Loose soil (peat bogs, sandy loam, loam) is suitable for a garden hybrid. When planting young seedlings, it is better to choose an area with soil that blueberries like.

If blueberries are planted on a summer cottage for the first time, then before planting you need to study the composition of the soil. Using special devices and laboratory tests, the following is determined:

• Soil composition (mineral and organic particles);
• Type of soil (sandy, clayey, peat);
• Acidity (acidic, neutral, alkaline).

Depending on the data obtained, you can select special products and adjust the composition of the soil.

To get a good harvest, blueberries require adequate feeding. Therefore, it is important to pre-prepare the soil. Mineral and organic fertilizers are added to the soil. They are evenly distributed throughout the blueberry plot.

Blueberry

Fertilizers for blueberries per 1 sq. m:

• Potassium – 35 g;
• Phosphorus – 15 g;
• Nitrogen – 20 g;
• Humus or manure – 7 kg.

After applying fertilizers, the soil is dug up 50 cm deep. For better soil aeration, river sand is added to the site (up to 5 kg per 1 sq. m). For digging, it is better to use the bayonet of a shovel. It is recommended to prepare the soil in the fall.

On a note. If the site is fertilized in the spring, then fresh manure cannot be added to the soil. Fertilizer can kill the plant.

Hiding for the winter

It all depends on the temperature minimums that are possible in your area. It will withstand up to -25 degrees. If well covered with snow, it can withstand even greater frosts.

When your winters become more severe, you should take care of shelter. To do this, the branches are pressed to the ground using wire, twine or other materials to secure them. When frost comes, you need to throw several layers of spunbond or burlap over the formed arcs. The top can be covered with pine branches or snow.

When flowering, blueberries do not need special shelters, even during frosts. It easily tolerates temperatures down to -7.

Why blueberries love acidic soil

Video: How to acidify soil for blueberries

Heather plants (blueberries, lingonberries, cranberries) need acidic soil for normal growth and development. The shrub requires soil with a high level of acidity due to the special structure of the root system. There are no small hairs on the roots of blueberries, thanks to which other plants are saturated with nutrients from the soil and water. The conductor of the shrub is mycorrhiza (a large number of micro fungi that coexist in symbiosis with the root system of the plant).

Blueberry mycorrhiza of endotrophic type. The fungal cell is located in the cortex of the roots. The mushroom absorbs useful microelements from the soil and gives some of it to the bush. The blueberry, in turn, shares organic matter with the fungus. Mutually beneficial cohabitation is important for the growth of both blueberries and mushrooms.

Mycorrhiza develops only in acidic soils. A neutral acidity level prevents the mushroom from functioning normally. Therefore, even in fertilized nutritious soil, blueberries can wither, since they will not receive useful microelements from the soil.

Mycorrhiza

If the acidity level is within 4-4.5 pH, then the shrub will be able to receive adequate nutrition, even with a minimum content of nutrients in the soil.

On a note. An area with acidic soil for planting blueberries should be regularly checked for pH levels, and if necessary, acidify the soil. If the acidity is higher than normal, the plant begins to suffer from chlorosis. This happens because mycoses die from excessive acidity, and because of this, blueberries do not receive enough nutrients and nitrogen.

How to feed blueberries in spring: 5 unexpected rules. Norms, schemes, deadlines

It is believed that the blue berry does not tolerate organic matter, does not need nitrogen, is responsive to watering with electrolyte and vinegar, and does not need fertilizing at all in the first years. But the opposite is true: organic matter is needed, nitrogen, and barbaric methods of maintaining pH are not beneficial. Help for the gardener, note for the farmer: feeding blueberries in the spring and not only: what to feed, how and when. Requirement for batteries, timing and application rates. Rules and our mistakes, correct nutrition plan, tips and subtleties of agricultural technology.

How to make acidic soil for blueberries

How to acidify soil for hydrangea

If a gardener notices in May or June that the leaves of the bush are turning red, then this is the first sign indicating that the soil for blueberries is not acidic enough. In this case, the plant stops developing, the buds stop growing, and the bush freezes. An insufficient level of acidity is the answer to the question of why blueberries do not bear fruit. In autumn, reddening of the leaves is normal, as the plant prepares for the winter period.

Aggressive substances are used to acidify the soil, so the gardener must work in rubber gloves, plastic glasses and a mask. If the acidic solution gets on the skin or mucous membranes, then work should be stopped immediately and the area should be washed with soda water to neutralize the effect of the acids.

It is not advisable to bring acidic solutions into the house; they emit vapors that have a negative effect on mucous membranes. Use solutions only outdoors.

Fertilizers should be kept outside

If the soil in the selected area is not acidic enough, then you can oxidize it yourself using effective means. Tips on how to quickly acidify soil for blueberries:

• Lemon acid. Dilute 5 g of citric acid powder in 10 liters of water. Water the area for blueberries with the solution (enough for 1 sq. m). Experience shows that the product acts quickly, acidification will not last long;
• Vinegar (apple or regular). Acidification with vinegar is done as a last resort if you need to quickly increase the acidity of the soil. For acidification, prepare a solution: 10 liters of water with the addition of 100 g of acetic acid. Frequent use of this method can negatively affect the plant and kill beneficial insects in the soil;
• Sulfuric acid or colloidal sulfur for blueberries. A sulfuric acid solution is prepared immediately before use. For 1 liter of water you will need 1 drop of concentrated acid (enough for 1 sq. m);
• Oxalic acid. To prepare a solution for 1 sq. m take 5 g of sorrel powder and dilute it in 10 liters of water. Water the holes with bushes with the product;
• Electrolyte. Acid batteries are filled with electrolyte. To acidify the soil, prepare an acidifier: 30 ml of electrolyte per 10 liters of water (per 1 sq. m);
• Powdered sulfur for blueberries. The powder is spread on the ground under a blueberry bush. For 1 sq. m will require 15 g of powder. Before adding powdered sulfur to the soil, water the soil well and then sprinkle it with powder. The procedure is carried out in spring or autumn before planting blueberry seedlings.

On a note. When using aggressive means to increase the acidity level, it is important to prevent the solution from getting on the leaves and trunk of the bush, as the product can cause a burn to the plant.

You can acidify the soil with organic matter. You can make homemade fertilizers suitable for blueberries with your own hands. Before planting, add the following to the blueberry hole:

• Peat;
• Needles;
• Sand;
• Semi-decomposed peat;
• Sawdust.

On a note. To make soil for blueberries with your own hands, it is recommended to take high-moor peat. It consists of organic matter and sphagnum moss. Knowing what kind of peat is needed for active blueberry growth, you can avoid problems with growing a bush.

Mix the components well and add them to the soil; they help increase the acidity level. Three times a year, the hole with blueberry bushes is mulched with a layer of sawdust and pine bark. If the acidity level has decreased over time, then alternative methods are used to acidify the soil for blueberries.

Acidity must be maintained constantly. Using the listed means to increase acidity levels gives a temporary effect. To keep the soil acidic, ammonia additives should be used as fertilizers:

• Urea;
• Potassium sulfate;
• Ammonia sulfate;
• Nitroammophoska;
• Ammonium nitrate.

In addition to soil acidification, for the development of shrubs it is necessary to carry out other agrotechnical measures:

• Watering;
• Loosening;
• Weed removal;
• Feeding;
• Treatment against diseases and pests;
• Trimming.

Fertilize

We choose fertilizers for blueberries wisely. For growth and harvest, it needs mineral supplements. No organics. It will kill the acidic environment and ruin your many years of work.

In the first year, the plant does not need any feeding. But in the second year, one bush will need 2 tablespoons of mineral fertilizers. The older the bush, the more food we give it. Three-year-old – 4 tbsp. spoons, for a four-year-old - 8, for a five-year-old - 16. This amount should be applied twice in the spring: when the buds swell and a month and a half after the first application. This is what feeding blueberries should be like in the spring.

Ammonium sulfate is applied three times - in early spring, when the plant is just waking up, in May and June. The norm is 80 grams per 1 plant. Fertilizing blueberries in the fall involves applying phosphorus fertilizers - 100 g per bush will be enough. Magnesium sulfate is enough for 15 g, and zinc sulfate and potassium sulfate - only 2 g each. It makes no difference when you give this food to the plant. Although it is best after the harvest - in the fall.

In addition, remember that from time to time blueberries need to acidify the soil. To do this, just water the plant with an acidic solution. You can use vinegar (9% vinegar diluted 1:1000 with water). Each bush has a bucket. You can use citric and oxalic acids.

Rules for planting and watering blueberries

Healthy planting material is the key to active growth of the bush. Young two-year-old seedlings are suitable for planting. The root system must be closed. Planting of seedlings is carried out in spring or autumn.

Video: How to acidify soil for hydrangea

For young seedlings, it is important to choose a windless, well-warmed area. In the sun, the plant will grow well, the berries will ripen sweet, and the bushes will be healthy.

Instructions for planting blueberry seedlings:

• Site selection: soil preparation, fertilization, determination of acidity level; digging, loosening;
• It is necessary to dig holes (diameter - 1 m, depth - 0.5 m), the distance between them is 1.5 m. Pour a peat mixture of high-moor peat and pine sawdust into the hole, do not compact the layer;
• Moisten the earthen ball around the roots of the seedling well; if it is very dense, then gently knead it, but so that it does not crumble. There are important mushrooms in the ground, which in the future will participate in the nutrition of the bush;
• Pour 5 liters of water into the hole, place a seedling in the middle, sprinkle the empty space with earth, compact the earth a little near the bush;
• Mulch the hole with a layer of pine sawdust, make the mulch layer 5-10 cm. This procedure will prevent the appearance of weeds.
• Loosening is carried out for better air permeability, which is important for the root system. The roots are located close to the surface of the earth, so you should loosen them carefully so as not to injure the bush. Weeding must be done manually, without garden tools. After removing the weeds, water the hole and mulch it.

After planting a young seedling, fertilizer will be required for the next season. You can make mineral supplements yourself. Production proportion:

• Ammonium sulfate (90 g);
• Superphosphate (110 g);
• Potassium sulfate (40 g).

Mix mineral fertilizers thoroughly and apply under the bush in the spring.

On a note. The main condition is that potassium chloride cannot be used as a mineral fertilizer. It can destroy the plant.

An important procedure in caring for bushes is pruning. In the third season, sanitary pruning is carried out for better growth of the bush. When pruning, dry, damaged branches are removed and the crown of the bush is slightly thinned. A tall bush is shaped by pruning, giving the bush an aesthetic appearance.

In order to prevent diseases, after pruning blueberries, the bushes are treated with fungicidal agents (Euparen, Topsin).

Tips for watering blueberries:

• The blueberry hole should be moistened, but water should not stagnate. The roots are located close to the surface of the earth, so if they are over-moistened, they begin to rot;
• It is important to prevent the soil from drying out and a crust forming on the ground. Soil moisture should be maintained at 60-70%. It is better to water from a watering can. If you moisten the soil with a hose, the stream can wash away the mulch layer;
• Watering frequency: every three days, twice a day. Favorable hours for watering are morning and evening. An adult bush will require 5 liters of water;
• The bushes need abundant watering in July and August. During this period, the formation of flower buds of the future harvest occurs;
• If the days are hot and sunny, then in addition to watering the bushes can be sprayed with cool water. The procedure helps cool the plant and increases the rate of photosynthesis.

When growing garden blueberries on your plot, you need to choose a bed with acidic soil or acidify the soil yourself. When using products to increase acidity levels, you must follow safety rules. If you follow the agrotechnical rules for growing and caring for shrubs, the plant will develop well and produce a good harvest for many years.

Trimming

There is no need to rush into such care. Young bushes do not need to remove branches. Unless they have diseased, dry or broken branches. Then take your pruning shears and carefully pinch them off.

After about 12 years, when the berries become significantly smaller than on young bushes, it is worth carrying out anti-aging pruning. If you do not want to be left without berries for several seasons, then in the first year you cut off some of the old branches. Then repeat everything when the young shoots begin to bear fruit. You can prune all old branches in one year. But you will practically be left without berries for several years. But after the young shoots grow, you will be able to fully enjoy the result.

Bonus: “slow” methods of soil acidification

In combination with quick ways to achieve the desired acidity of the soil, it is recommended to use less effective, but more “long-lasting” methods of acidification. These include, in particular, mulching the soil with bark or sawdust from coniferous trees and sowing green manure (oats, rapeseed, white mustard) in tree trunks after harvesting.

Among the slow (with long-lasting effect) methods of soil acidification, it is also recommended to dig up the soil with the addition of sulfur (1 kg per 10 sq.m.) or iron sulfate (500 g per 10 sq.m.). Adding these elements to the soil allows you to reduce the pH level by about one in the case of iron sulfate or by 2.5 when using sulfur. True, this will happen after some time - it will take from 1 to 8 months to achieve the desired acidity. Therefore, such methods are recommended to be used in the fall, when preparing the land for spring planting of shrubs.

Blueberries are a great original among berry crops. Not every summer resident decides to grow it in their garden, but those who take the risk receive a worthy reward for their efforts! Everyone, young and old, likes the taste of these berries, and their benefits are difficult to overestimate.