Growing strawberries in Siberia in open ground: the best varieties, planting and care

Secrets of care after growing

Even if the strawberries were planted in the right place, following all the technologies, they need proper care in order to get a good harvest.

Features of watering

First of all, it is necessary to regularly water the strawberries, preventing the soil from drying out. Watering is carried out daily after planting, and then once every 2 days with water at room temperature in the evening. In arid climates, it is better to install a sprinkler or drip irrigation system for convenience.

During the budding period, potassium fertilizer is applied - potassium sulfate, potassium magnesia or potassium chloride according to the instructions.
To increase productivity, it is useful to spray the bushes with boric acid in a proportion of 1 tsp. for 10 l. water.
In early spring, adult bushes are fertilized with nitroammophoska in a proportion of 1 tbsp. l. for 10 l. water.
During the flowering period, they are fed with potassium nitrate, chicken droppings or wood ash.
After the end of the harvest, nitroammophoska is added at the rate of 2 tbsp. l. for 10 l. water.
At the end of summer, for a better next harvest, strawberry bushes are fed with urea at the rate of 30 g per 10 liters. water.

Mulching

Mulching in the spring is necessary to protect flower stalks and berries from contact with the soil, and in the fall to protect them from frost.

There are different methods of mulching:

Organic mulch - compost, grass clippings, humus, manure. At the same time, the composition of the soil is enriched.
Inorganic mulch - small stone, granite chips, polyethylene.
Special mulch paper that does not contain harmful impurities, does not rot, and protects against fungi, weeds, heat and freezing.

Pest Control

The main enemy of strawberries is the cockchafer. One of its larvae is capable of destroying an entire square meter of planted strawberries. In addition to mechanical measures to prevent its appearance - digging and weeding, experienced gardeners recommend planting alkaloid lupine near the strawberries, the beans of which are fatal to the larvae of the cockchafer.

Pruning and propagation

Strawberries can be propagated by seeds, seedlings from shoots, or dividing the bush. The uterine bushes produce mustaches. To propagate strawberries by layering, leave the strongest and longest tendrils on the mother bush and remove the rest.

2 weeks before planting, the rosettes formed on the mother bushes are cut off and planted in open ground. You can use the uterine bush to form mustaches and rosettes for no more than 3 years.

To protect against pests and diseases, excess leaves and tendrils are removed from overgrown bushes, leaving a growing point and stems with petioles up to 10 cm long. This procedure is carried out in dry weather early in the morning or evening using a sharp pruner.

In winter, strawberries are pruned more, leaving only young shoots.

Shelter for the winter

In severe winters with temperatures below -20 degrees, strawberry bushes need shelter to protect the roots from freezing, especially in winters with little snow.

As soon as regular frosts begin, strawberry plantings are covered with spruce branches, hay, straw or special agrofibre. In the spring, at the first warming, the shelter is removed to avoid damping off. The soil is cleared of covering material and loosened.

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Fertilizing strawberries

Strawberry fruiting largely depends on the supply of nutrients.

Caring for plants in order to saturate them with useful components requires several stages:

spring processing;
replenishment after the appearance of the ovary;
post-harvest processing;
autumn feeding.

In spring, strawberries are fertilized with bird droppings (0.2 kg), which are diluted in 10 liters of water. The solution is infused for a day, then the plants are watered at the roots.

Advice! You can add nitroammophoska (10 g) to the organic fertilizer solution.

Nitroammofoska is a complex fertilizer containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. These microelements are responsible for the development of strawberries.

When the ovaries appear, you need to water the plants with mullein solution. To do this, rotted manure is used, which should sit for several days.

Important! Using fresh manure causes burns to the strawberry root system.

In summer, plants are provided with potassium, which is responsible for the taste of berries. This substance is contained in humus and ash. Humus (0.3 kg) is diluted with water (10 l), and then left for a day.

Ash is a universal fertilizer for strawberries, containing a whole range of useful substances. It is embedded in the soil between planting rows or used as a solution. An additional effect of ash is to protect plants from pests.

In autumn, the main fertilizer for strawberries is mullein. Superphosphate or potassium sulfate is added to the solution based on it. The norm of mineral fertilizers per 10 liters of water is no more than 30 g.

Is it possible to grow strawberries in the country?

Growing strawberries on your own in your summer cottage is a very painstaking, but at the same time simple task. If all the rules are followed correctly, the plant will actively bear fruit and produce a good harvest.

The difficulty of growing lies in the fact that when cultivating strawberries you will have to spend a lot of effort on performing such mundane actions as watering and weeding.

You can grow this berry in open ground in the garden in both southern and northern latitudes and in Siberia. The key to success in this matter will be the correct selection of a variety, which must be adapted to a specific area. The modern market can offer a huge number of types of strawberries. All of them differ from each other according to such criteria as climate resistance, ripening period, size and taste of fruits, etc.

Selection of varieties

When choosing varieties for cultivation in Siberia, the following characteristics must be taken into account:

Frost resistance.
Ripening time and early maturity.
The ability to resist diseases.
Taste qualities of berries.

When deciding which strawberries to plant in Siberian conditions, it is necessary to give preference to zoned varieties that have their own history of cultivation and harvest.

Regarding the timing of ripening, the best option for Siberia would be to choose early and mid-ripening varieties that have time to form a harvest under the conditions of the Siberian summer.

If you need and want to get a harvest of tasty berries throughout the season, it makes sense to plant remontant strawberries.

Based on the assessments of gardeners, a list of the most popular varieties of strawberries grown in Siberia can be compiled.

Proper planting in a garden plot in open ground - step-by-step instructions

When planting strawberries in your summer cottage, you first need to decide on the timing. The gardener has several options for the development of events:

spring (April) – the strawberry bed must be prepared in the fall of the previous season;
summer (July 20-25) - the bed is also prepared in the fall;
autumn (September) - in this case, the soil for plants is prepared 2-3 weeks before work.

Once the deadlines have been determined, you can begin to form the beds. The place where they will be located must meet the following requirements:

The soil should be sandy loam or loamy, necessarily breathable and nutritious;
The optimal acidity level should be between 5.5-6.5 Ph. If the indicator is low, it can be raised by adding dolomite flour. It is worth remembering that such work can only be carried out in the fall;
Places where precipitation and melt water accumulate are not suitable for growing strawberries, because in this case there is a high risk of rotting of the root system;
Groundwater should be located at a depth of 70-80 centimeters;
Experienced gardeners recommend placing strawberries separately from all other garden crops;
The best predecessors of strawberries are legumes and grains or greens. You should not plant in places where tomatoes or potatoes previously grew;
In order for the berries to ripen and be juicy and sugary, the planting site must be sunny.

The place where strawberries are planted must be sunny.

The method of forming the beds will depend on the chosen growing location. If the site is located on a hill and is well illuminated by sunlight, it is enough to build a raised bed 10 centimeters high. With a high location of groundwater, this figure increases to 35-40 centimeters.

In order to make the soil more fertile, the following fertilizers are applied per square meter of soil:

8 kilograms of compost;
100 grams of superphosphate;
30 grams of potassium salt.

The next step is to select healthy seedlings:

they should show no signs of mechanical damage or disease;
planting material with the most powerful and branched roots takes root best;
the rosette should consist of 3-4 leaves.

Seedlings must be of high quality and without damage

Carrying out such work will help create a nutritional and water regime. Also, during digging, you can detect and destroy a variety of pests.

As soon as the preparatory work is completed, you can begin planting:

The best time for planting is considered to be early morning or late evening on a cloudy day;
The standard planting scheme suggests that the distance between rows is 60-70 centimeters, and between individual plants 20-25 centimeters;
The hole is dug to a depth of 13-15 centimeters;
When immersing a seedling in the ground, it is necessary to ensure that the root collar is flush with the ground. Otherwise, the plant will soon die;
The last step will be abundant watering and mulching of the plantings.

Planting and growing strawberries is a fairly simple process; the main thing is to follow all the rules and carry out preparatory measures on time.

General information about culture

Fresh berries are eaten in all regions; gardeners try to grow them themselves. Strawberries are cultivated in Irkutsk; even the Siberian and Novosibirsk regions are not afraid of their cultivation. True, in winter the shoots of the plant often freeze, and in the spring they are affected by frost. That is why breeders are trying to adapt early frost-resistant varieties to a given climatic region, and gardeners are inventing simple ways to help bushes survive the cold.

Wild varieties of strawberries were found everywhere, and Altai was no exception. However, people were able to appreciate the taste of healthy berries only in the 18th century. At the Paris Botanical Garden, Chilean and Virginia strawberries were randomly crossed. The result was a plant whose berries, in terms of taste and aesthetic characteristics, eclipsed all previously known varieties. In Russia, people became interested in strawberries during the time of Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich, who first began to grow this crop in his own garden.

Strawberries in the garden

Varieties of suitable strawberries for Siberia should differ in the following characteristics:

increased frost resistance;
the ability to quickly regenerate leaves and stems to replace frozen plants (the beardless variety is not suitable);
increased immunity to diseases and pests;
good transportability.

The following varieties most accurately meet these requirements:

Amulet;
Berdskaya early;
Darenka;
Kama;
Maryshka;
Omsk early;
Tanyusha;
First-grader, etc.

Amulet is a variety with medium ripening periods. Strawberries at the stage of technical ripeness have a dark red color, the shape of the berries is cone-shaped. A distinctive feature is the rich sweet taste, which is sure to please all family members, and a very strong classic aroma. The fruits are used universally; they are suitable for transportation over long distances.

Berdsk early strawberries differ from competitors in their increased resistance to the negative effects of pests or pathogens. Frost-resistant variety, undemanding in care. The yield is not too high, but the fruits are of excellent taste, aromatic and early ripening. When strawberries of this variety begin to ripen, they acquire a matte scarlet color. The berry has a cone shape.

Berdskaya early

Tanyusha strawberry bushes grow powerful and grow green mass well. The description of the variety indicates that the plant is undemanding in care and tolerates drought and extreme cold well. The berries are rich red in color, with a glossy shine, excellent taste and medium ripening.

Strawberry Kama received the popular name Black Prince. One bush produces up to 1 kg of berries. The fruit is large, weighing about 40 grams, with high marketability and taste. The disadvantage is susceptibility to gray and brown rot. A very winter-hardy species, which, with timely preventive treatment, will certainly please you with a harvest.

Mustache trimming

As the strawberry grows, it produces tendrils—long shoots that allow the plant to grow. By using the mustache you can get new seedlings. If you do not trim the shoots in a timely manner, this will lead to dense plantings and a decrease in yield.

Important! Strawberries produce the maximum number of whiskers after fruiting. It is recommended to remove excess shoots immediately, since strawberries spend a lot of vitality on them.

Additionally, dry leaves and plant stems are removed. Only shoots that are planned to be used for seedlings are left.

It is recommended to remove excess shoots immediately, since strawberries spend a lot of vitality on them. Additionally, dry leaves and plant stems are removed. Only shoots that are planned to be used for seedlings are left.

Pruning of the mustache is done in the spring before flowering and in the fall, when the last harvest is harvested. For work, choose a dry day without wind, morning or evening. Strawberry shoots are trimmed with scissors or pruners.

How to care for strawberries in spring: basic activities

After the snow has melted and the soil has dried slightly, they begin the main activities for caring for strawberries. This is a vulnerable period for the plant, since at this time there are still temperature changes, and there is also a risk of return frosts. Therefore, it is very important to create favorable conditions for strawberries to grow and form flowering buds.

Advice! Strawberry beds can be sprinkled with ash, water the plants and the soil around them with boiling water, and also cover them with film so that the snow melts faster.

Only dormant bushes can be watered with boiling water. In addition, it additionally kills all pests and diseases that have overwintered in the ground.

Next, the strawberries must be cleared of dry leaves and mulch, and frozen plants must be removed.

Strawberry varieties

The following varieties are in demand among gardeners:

"Pavlovka"

A very early variety, with medium-sized sweet berries. The harvest is characterized by uniform ripening and average abundance. Winter-hardy and does not freeze out in wintering conditions in Siberia, resistant to diseases. Forms a small amount of whiskers.

One of the earliest and most productive varieties. Thanks to the ability of this strawberry to tolerate low temperatures, the bushes tolerate spring and autumn frosts and do not freeze in winter. The berries are medium in size and have a sweet and sour taste. Characterized by high resistance to fungal diseases.

"Omsk early"

Specially bred for cultivation in Siberia. It has high productivity. The berries are medium size, sweet and sour taste.

An early variety characterized by winter hardiness and drought resistance. Forms a harvest of large sweet berries. The main disadvantage is the low resistance to the “spotting” disease. Provided proper care, it has shown high performance when grown in Siberia.

A variety characterized by high yield, winter hardiness and disease resistance. The productivity of one bush is up to 2 kg of large sweet berries. Planting is recommended in spring. Doesn't form a lot of whiskers.

Winter-hardy, productive garden strawberries, producing a harvest of large berries. It is demanding on the place of cultivation, and therefore it requires regular transplantation to a new place. Fruits well when grown in Siberia.

The variety selected by Novosibirsk breeders is characterized by high resistance to frost and copes well with drought. It grows in one place for a long time, without requiring constant replanting. The berries are large. Average harvest. Ideal for growing in Siberia.

"Elizabeth the Second"

A variety that has received recognition for its ability to tolerate frost in cold winters. Fruits from the beginning of May until the end of August. Demanding on soil nutrition and regular fertilizing. Resistant to diseases.

An unusual variety that can form a harvest even on unrooted tendrils. Thanks to this property, berries can even be grown in hanging pots or portable containers. The fruits are large, sweet, with a nutmeg flavor. The yield is up to 1.5 kg per bush. Showed high productivity when grown in Siberia.

After choosing the varieties, it’s time to go to the site and decide on a place for planting.

Selecting a location

This culture loves sunny places and does not tolerate wind or shade from trees. It is extremely undesirable for the selected area to become wet during the period of active snow melting in the spring, since the berry plants cannot withstand prolonged excess moisture and may die. If flooding is inevitable or groundwater is close throughout the growing season, it is better to make raised beds, raising the plantings above the base soil level. Nightshade crops are a bad predecessor for strawberries. Their close proximity is also undesirable. Good predecessors are beets, all legumes, garlic and oats.

Soil preparation

Strawberries are demanding of soil, which must be loose and nutritious, so we prepare the soil for planting it. The best option is to complete all the work in the fall, adding organic fertilizers: humus, compost and ash, which in total should be 20 kg per 1 m2 of bed. In addition to organic matter, you can use superphosphate in the amount of 30 g per 1 m² and potassium chloride - up to 15 g per 1 m².

Planting scheme

When planting, it is important to meet the requirements for the distance between bushes and rows. For ordinary varieties, gaps of at least 25 cm must be left between plants, and for remontant varieties, 50 cm.

There is no need to save space and try to plant bushes often. A distance of at least 60 cm between rows is considered optimal.

Strawberries will grow in one place for 3 years, and subsequent transplantation to a new place should be carried out taking into account the requirements for the planting scheme.

Landing technology

It is advisable to plant strawberries on a cloudy, cool day. For planting in the garden, holes are prepared and pre-watered. Next, the bush is placed in the hole and sprinkled so that its lobe is not covered and is at ground level.

After finishing the work, all the soil under the strawberries needs to be mulched. To do this, you can use humus, peat or pine needle.

When growing strawberries in Siberia, it is necessary to take into account the peculiarities of the climate, and for the first time after planting, cover the beds with covering material to protect the plants from possible frosts and cold snaps. After the planted bushes take root, the shelter can be removed.

Strawberry varieties for Siberia

In order to obtain stable yield indicators for cultivation in these difficult conditions of the region, zoned varieties are selected that are tolerant of sudden temperature changes, have good frost resistance and can easily tolerate a minimum number of sunny days. Gardeners greatly value locally bred strawberry varieties for Siberia.

"Pavlovka"

Development of a Russian breeding institute with early ripening periods. The harvest is stable and consistent in the form of large berries weighing up to 25 g. The color of the glossy skin is red or pink. The dense and juicy pulp has an intense aroma. The bushes are tall, the rosettes are formed by a large number of leaf plates. Yields are average, but the variety is winter-hardy. Drought resistance is average.

"Tanyusha"

Remontant strawberry of Siberian selection. The variety was obtained at the experimental sites of the Novosibirsk Zonal Fruit and Berry Experimental Station named after. I. V. Michurina. The bushes are powerful with a lot of leaves. Not prone to conformity. It is tolerant to specialized diseases and pest attacks. The berries ripen in medium terms. Weight - 15 g. Productivity indicators are average.

Strawberries "Tanyusha" are recommended for cultivation in Western Siberia

"Omsk early"

Among the best strawberry varieties for Siberia, there is another form with high productivity. The very name of sweet and sour strawberries speaks about the timing of ripening. Despite the small number of sunny days, the powerful bushes produce an abundance of medium-sized fruits. The pulp is aromatic, with a high juice content.

"Kama"

The best variety in terms of yield. Development of Polish selection. The fruiting period, during which large, slightly ribbed, shiny berries are picked, is extended and lasts more than a month. In the first wave, the weight of the fruit reaches 60 g, but by the end of the season it decreases. On average, the indicator fluctuates between 20-30 g. The seeds are of medium size.

"Festival Daisy"

A successful form of strawberry obtained as a result of crossing experiments by Ukrainian scientists. Ripens in medium terms. The first berries turn out to be very large, on average about 40 g, and have a very attractive appearance - scarlet, with shiny skin. The taste qualities are fully consistent with the external ones: the berries are very sweet due to the gradual accumulation of sugars as they ripen. The shape is round-conical, with a short, wide neck. The pulp is dense and juicy. The variety is distinguished by its versatility and high yield. There is a huge demand for it during the season. The dense pulp easily tolerates transportation over long distances.

The “Festival Chamomile” variety is resistant to various spots and other diseases, and withstands winter and periods of drought perfectly.

"Amulet"

A variety characterized by high yield, winter hardiness and disease resistance. It withstands temperature changes well during ripening. The productivity of one powerful bush, weakly forming a mustache, is up to 2 kg of large, sweet fruits. According to the description, the berries are universally used - suitable for fresh consumption and canning, preparing various types of jams and compotes.

"Maryshka"

Strawberries of this variety are characterized by high winter hardiness and productivity. On tall bushes, if the rules of planting and care are followed, an abundance of healthy berries is formed. Although the variety adapts well to the climatic realities of Siberia, in general it is demanding. It requires regular replanting, otherwise productivity indicators are noticeably reduced.

"Junia Smides"

Latvian development in the field of selection of medium ripeness. A distinctive characteristic of strawberries is self-fertility. Peduncles are located at the level of leaves, the number of rosettes is insignificant. Red fruits with shiny skin weigh up to 30 g, but the marketable weight of one specimen is approximately 15-20 g. They can taste sweet or sweet and sour, and have a strong aroma. The frost resistance of this form of strawberry is average. In winter, she needs good shelter in the open ground.

"Elizabeth the Second"

A variety recognized for its ability to withstand significant drops in temperatures during cold winters. Fruiting extends from the end of spring until the last days of summer. Demanding on soil nutrition and regular fertilizing. But with the formation of strong immunity, he is not afraid of numerous specialized diseases.

Further care

Difficult climatic conditions also make adjustments to plant care. Young strawberry bushes need regular watering, but overwatering the plants is strictly prohibited. Therefore, the gardener must constantly be on alert and water the strawberries as they dry out.

Gardeners have different opinions regarding the application of fertilizers. Some argue that if all the requirements for the substrate are taken into account before planting, the supply of nutrients is enough for 3 years and there is no need to fertilize before transplanting to another site. Others still believe that due to difficult weather conditions, the plants need fertilizer and several fertilizing, especially during the period of flowering and formation of ovaries, are simply necessary for strawberries. For these purposes, complex mineral fertilizers are used, preferably with a high nitrogen content. Phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are also suitable, especially during flowering.

Strawberries do not tolerate proximity to weeds, so weeding and loosening the soil should be a regular procedure.

Read also: Which soil is suitable for cyclamen

It is recommended to remove the tendrils that will appear on the bushes in summer. Sprouts rob strawberries of strength and nutrients, the deficiency of which in harsh climates can be disastrous.

2 - 3 strong bushes are left annually for seedlings. The buds on them are torn off during flowering, which contributes to the formation of good planting material for the next season. In spring and autumn, the beds are sanitized and dried and damaged shoots are removed. For the winter, the beds are covered with spruce branches. If the winter has not been very snowy, it would be a good idea to throw a snowdrift on top of the spruce branches yourself.

Video: caring for strawberries in summer in Siberia

Now you know that you can grow strawberries even in Siberia if you choose the right varieties and provide the plants with proper care. Experienced gardeners recommend planting several varieties of berries in this region, and then you can be guaranteed to get the desired harvest.

Siberian YouTube blogger Viktor Sergeenko, well-known in the circles of gardeners and gardeners, proved by his personal example that there are no climatic obstacles for a passionate amateur gardener. At his dacha, he receives excellent harvests of garden strawberries, which are usually called strawberries. He shares his secrets and achievements in the book “Garden. My experience of getting a big harvest." The author has outlined 5 important rules for caring for this delicate crop, following which you will guarantee a good harvest of quality berries.

Good harvest!

Last season, due to the surprisingly cold May and cool early June, strawberries lagged behind in development compared to other years, says Viktor Sergeenko. In some places, the harvesting of these wonderful berries was completed a long time ago, but in the Altai Territory, fruiting lasted until August.

Watering strawberries

To obtain a harvest, strawberries need to be watered regularly. Additionally, it is necessary to provide oxygen access to the plant roots. Therefore, another stage of care is loosening the soil.

The rate of incoming moisture is determined taking into account precipitation. In rainy weather, strawberries are covered with agrofilm during flowering and fruiting. This way you can protect your plantings from the spread of fungal diseases.

The level of soil moisture for strawberries depends on the type of soil. For sandy soil, moisture content should be about 70%, for clayey soil - about 80%.

Advice! Watering is done in the morning so that the moisture is absorbed during the day. However, evening watering is also allowed.

Each plant requires up to 0.5 liters of water. After planting the strawberries, watering is carried out daily for 2 weeks. Then a break of 2-3 days is taken between procedures.

On average, strawberries are watered 1-2 times every week. Plants prefer a rare but plentiful supply of moisture. It is better to avoid frequent and scanty watering.

Important! If the weather is hot during the ripening of the berries, the water supply increases.

The water for watering strawberries should not be too cold. It can be left to stand in greenhouses or wait until it warms up in the sun. For a large number of plants, it is better to equip drip irrigation to ensure a uniform supply of moisture.

Further care

Find out more about the nuances of feeding strawberries in the spring (with folk remedies), in the fall, as well as proper care in the spring, after harvest and in the fall.

It is recommended to remove the tendrils that will appear on the bushes in summer. Sprouts rob strawberries of strength and nutrients, the deficiency of which in harsh climates can be disastrous.

Did you know? Strawberries have a lot in common with salicylic acid, so during the berry ripening season, don’t rush to take headache pills, first try eating a handful of delicious berries and discomfort will be a thing of the past.

Video: caring for strawberries in summer in Siberia

Preparing for landing

Strawberries in Siberia can be planted both in spring and autumn. Spring planting takes place from the last days of April to mid-May. Autumn planting takes place from the last days of July strictly until August 10.

Later dates for spring planting threaten the seedlings withering out, and delays in autumn planting will prevent the plant from taking root. The best soil temperature for planting strawberries is about +8 degrees.

The beds for spring planting of strawberries are prepared in the fall. The soil on the site is cleared of weeds and dug up with the addition of humus, compost or other organic matter. Wood ash is ideal for this purpose.

2 weeks before planting, the site is dug up again with the addition of compost or rotted manure, and immediately before planting, loosening is carried out to a depth of 15-20 cm.

Experienced gardeners recommend planting strawberries in cloudy weather. The soil must be moistened before planting.
Dig small planting holes at a distance of 15-25 cm between each other and 60-80 cm between the beds.
Plant the seedlings in the center of the hole and cover it with soil so that the root collar is flush with the ground surface.
After planting all the seedlings, the soil around is mulched with peat or humus.
For the first 2 weeks after planting, the seedlings are covered with film.

Caring for strawberries in Siberian conditions is not very difficult, but the basic growing rules must be followed to obtain a bountiful harvest of high-quality and healthy fruits.

Young strawberry bushes should be watered as the soil dries out; the plant cannot tolerate excess moisture. Watering is done in the evening or morning with slightly warm, settled water. You can use a drip irrigation system.

Weeding and loosening the soil are necessary measures for successfully growing strawberries.

Some gardeners believe that fertilizer applied before planting should be enough for strawberries for 3 seasons. Others believe that it is necessary to fertilize 3 times per season, since the climatic conditions are harsh. During the flowering period, it is necessary to add mineral complexes with a predominance of nitrogen, but phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are also suitable.

As you know, strawberries tend to grow mustaches. But they take away the vitality of the plant and therefore the mustache must be trimmed. In spring and autumn, sanitary cleaning is carried out by removing dried and damaged parts of plants. Several powerful bushes can be left for seedlings, picking off their flowers. Strawberries are transplanted to a new place every 3 years.

Diseases and pests

Strawberries are sometimes subject to gray mold disease and attack by the strawberry mite. With gray rot, a fluffy coating is noticeable, and a sign of a mite is the curling of the leaves inward. In any case, you must immediately treat the strawberry plantings with appropriate preparations.

In order to prevent these troubles, you need to water the plants only with warm water, do not plant them too densely, and be sure to mulch the soil with dry hay, sawdust or special mulch paper. Transplanting strawberry bushes every three years to a new place will also serve as disease prevention.

After harvesting in August, you need to feed the strawberries with potassium and phosphorus, remove excess tendrils and leaves, and cover the plantings with spruce branches. In winter, you can throw snow on the beds for more warmth. In spring the cover is removed.

To successfully grow strawberries in Siberian conditions, you need to pay attention to the following main points:

Select the desired variety of strawberries.
Find the right landing site.
Prepare the beds and plant seedlings, taking into account the recommendations.
Follow the rules of cultivation - timely watering, fertilizing, pruning.
Replant strawberries every 3 years.
Inspect plants for timely detection of diseases and pests, and immediately take measures to eliminate them.
Close strawberry plantings for the winter.

Growing rules

Remontant strawberries 2022, like any other berry, require attention. True, if crops that bear fruit once a year get by with a single fertilizing and regular watering, varieties with repeated fruiting need weekly fertilization. Due to the rapid growth of leaves and flowering, which continues throughout the season, strawberries require constant feeding, consisting of mineral and nitrogen fertilizers. It is recommended to feed the plant alternating chicken droppings with horse manure, vegetable peelings, sour milk or eggshells.

It is better to carry out work in the morning, when the sun does not begin to fall on the leaves. This approach can protect the leaves from burning if liquid complementary food gets on them.

Watering the plant is limited to settling water at room temperature. By replacing it with a hose, the summer resident risks not only reducing the number of fruitings, but also reducing the size of the berries to a minimum.

The most suitable varieties

The range of strawberry varieties is wide and varied. However, most gardeners prefer remontant species. This is explained by the fact that such varieties bear fruit several times a year, which increases the amount of harvest several times.

The most common varieties:

"Mara de Bois". An excellent option for cool climates. It easily tolerates replanting, as a result of which about 95% of the bushes take root. Compared to other species, this indicator is the best. The fruits are conical, red-orange in color, and can reach 25 grams. The taste is so great that such berries are used only fresh.
"Temptation". Large-fruited variety. Weight of berries is up to 30 grams. The aroma is bright with notes of nutmeg, the color is bright red. Suitable for cultivation not only in vegetable gardens, but also in containers and hanging baskets on the balcony.
"Albion". Fruits 3-4 times a year. The amount of harvest from one bush is up to 2 kilograms. The bushes are medium-sized, the berries do not lie on the ground. Sweet taste reminiscent of strawberries. The weight of one berry is up to 50 grams.
"Elizabeth II". Large red fruits with a shiny surface, suitable for freezing. If the plant is properly cared for, the weight of the berry can reach 80 grams. The taste is honey, memorable. This variety is resistant to most diseases and insect attacks.
"Elsanta". Large cone-shaped berries up to 50 grams. They have a red, shiny tint. The flesh is dense and crispy. The variety does not tolerate excessive heat and frost, but is resistant to many diseases, except root rot and powdery mildew.
"Kama". The fruits are medium-sized, weighing up to 40 grams. The shape is classic, conical, the color is brown. The arrangement of flower stalks under the leaves protects the berries from birds. Needs constant mulching due to contact with the ground.
"Zephyr." This species is resistant to many diseases, short-term drought and low temperatures. The berries are juicy, quite sweet with a bright aroma. Average weight is about 20 grams. Suitable for fresh consumption and freezing.

Varieties with large fruits:

"Honey." Not a remontant strawberry. The bushes and root system are powerful and distinguished by their vitality. The berries are dark scarlet in color, juicy, and can reach 21 grams. Contains a large amount of ascorbic acid. Characteristic features of the species are high resistance to winter cold and drought.
"Gigantella". The huge fruits, which have a pineapple smell and sweet taste, can reach 100 grams. The shrubs are tall, up to 50 centimeters in height, which has a positive effect on their resistance to disease.
"Festival" High-yielding species. The weight of the first fruits is up to 45 grams. The berries themselves are bright, sweet and sour. It requires special care, as it is not highly resistant to diseases.

Vertical beds for strawberries

The simplest thing is to make a pyramid. You can use any available material: boxes, pallets, old tires, large pots, slate sheets. Using your imagination, we assemble the structure from the selected material, not forgetting about safety precautions, and secure it well. Fill it with soil or substrate and plant the seedlings.

Planting strawberries in pipes. You can cut the pipe in half and make horizontal beds, hang them on the wall one above the other and enjoy a wall garden. Such beds use a drip irrigation system, which will provide almost automatic watering.

How to plant strawberries vertically? For vertical beds you will have to tinker a bit. For the base we take a pipe, maybe a plastic one, depending on the project budget. We make holes for seedlings. In such systems, irrigation occurs from the inside, so a tube of a narrower diameter is inserted inside the pipe, with holes for irrigation; we wrap it in thin foam rubber or burlap to avoid clogging with the substrate. We fix it. We turn on the watering. We fill it with soil and plant our strawberries.

How to make strawberry beds based on construction mesh? So, the cell size should be at least 3 cm. We twist the same pipe from the mesh, only here you can increase the diameter. Next, we take a bag that fits the size of our bed. We install an irrigation system inside, as described above. Fill with soil. Next, we tear the bag through the mesh cell and make a hole where we will have a “hole” for the seedling. We plant our seedlings.

There is also a budget and modest room option. Suitable for apartments and balconies. To create a beautiful composition that will become a garden bed in the future:

We take plastic bottles, preferably one shape: 1.5 or 2 liters;
We cut off the top part with the neck so that we get something like a tall glass;
Further as desired. You can plant a bush in each bottle. Or you can insert them one into the other, make holes, no more than 3 in one bottle around the circumference, and, filling it with soil, plant strawberries;
You will have to water such a mini garden with your hands under each root. Although, there is no limit to perfection, and perhaps there will be craftsmen who can come up with an irrigation automation system. For example, cut off the bottoms of the same plastic bottles. Place one inside the other, neck down. Place a tube with holes inside, you can take it from an IV. Let's get the already familiar irrigation system. The main thing is not to overdo it with the height of our bed, so that the structure does not collapse.

Sowing strawberry seeds for seedlings

With stratification

To obtain uniform shoots, strawberry seeds can be pre-stratified. This is done with simultaneous sowing. Stratification is desirable for the ripening of embryos in seeds. If they are sown without stratification, the seedlings will appear unevenly, within 1-1.5 months.

Containers with crops in December are placed in the refrigerator at a temperature of 4–6 ° C for 2 months.
Then - under a phytolamp, and the seeds germinate in 1-2 weeks.

Without stratification

Before sowing in February (without stratification), the seeds are soaked in snow water for 1–1.5 days. The water is changed frequently.

ADVICE

It is advisable to bubble old seeds (on the verge of expiration date) in snow water for at least 12 hours.

For sowing, prepare shallow but wide containers with lids (transparent plastic boxes are best suited).
Drainage holes are made in the bottom of the container to allow water to drain.
The substrate is prepared from equal parts of earth, humus, sand and peat.
Spread it in a layer of at least 4.5–5 cm and spill it before sowing.
The seeds are carefully laid out on the surface of the substrate, without being buried, but only slightly pressed into the soil.
Snow is placed on top in a dense layer: when it melts and the water flows down, the seeds will be drawn into the soil.
Then the container is covered with a lid, film or glass.

The use of peat tablets also gives good results - it is only important to buy them from a trusted manufacturer

Photo: before sowing, strawberry seeds need to be bubbled, stratified or soaked

In order for the seeds to germinate faster, the bottom of the container must be insulated from the cold window sill: place polystyrene foam or a board under the container with seedlings. Until the seeds sprout, the container should remain closed, and the soil should be periodically moistened with a spray bottle.

IMPORTANT
Do not allow condensation to form on the lid of the container to prevent mold from appearing and the seeds to rot.

Light and temperature

After the first shoots appear, the container with seeds is placed on a south window at a temperature of 10–15 °C on a cloudy day.

It is very important to take care of additional lighting in a timely manner. The duration of daylight hours in winter and early spring is still very short. Therefore, it is imperative to illuminate the seedlings with fluorescent or phytolamps.

Picking and hardening

After the appearance of 1–2 true leaves in March, the seedlings are planted according to a 5x5–7 cm pattern into boxes or pots.

For hardening, they can be gradually transferred to a loggia, greenhouse or greenhouse. The time spent on the loggia is increased gradually, starting from 2 hours a day. For the first hardening event, choose a cloudy day.

Photo: tender strawberry shoots are sensitive to aridity and waterlogging

Cold-resistant strawberry varieties for Siberia

The choice of strawberry variety should be approached responsibly. It must meet the following conditions:

Increased resistance to spring cold snaps and severe winter frosts. Sometimes in Siberia, the temperature in winter drops to -40 degrees. Any variety will not withstand such temperatures. Only cold-resistant varieties are suitable.
High resistance to pests, rot and fungal diseases is a huge plus for the selected variety.
The ability to very quickly restore green shoots after cutting.
Abundant fruiting in conditions of lack of sunlight. It's not every year that it's sunny outside. Therefore, it is advisable to play it safe in advance and choose a variety adapted to short daylight hours.

Today, the most popular varieties of regular and remontant strawberries are:

Amulet is a variety of ordinary strawberry with a bountiful harvest. The berries are very tasty and juicy. Suitable for preparing various preparations for the winter.

Darenka is a very early variety. On one bush you can collect many large and sweet berries with sourness.

Strawberry Darenka. Photo

Lord is a popular, high-yielding strawberry variety. The berries grow large (some specimens can reach 100 grams). Despite their impressive size, the berries are quite shelf-stable and well suited for transportation.

Elizabeth II is a popular remontant strawberry variety. The main advantages are large berries and long-term fruiting (yields twice a season).

Remontant varieties for Siberia

All of the above strawberry varieties, with the exception of “Talisman,” are non-remontant. It is rational to plant them in open ground, since a single fruiting does not justify the cost of purchasing and installing a greenhouse or other equipment. Another thing is the varieties of remontant strawberries for Siberia. Their main advantage is high yield, which is achieved through several stages of fruit ripening. In this case, the greenhouse allows you to extend the growing season of the plant and further increase the crop yield. In greenhouse conditions, you can pick berries from early spring until late autumn.

Queen Elizabeth II

Among the remontant strawberries, “Queen Elizabeth II” is perfect for Siberian conditions. This remontant variety can easily be called one of the best. It is characterized by high yield, up to 1.5 kg per bush. The berries of this strawberry are especially large, weighing from 40 to 80 g. Some fruits reach a record weight of 100 g. The taste of the fruit is excellent: each berry combines the optimal amount of acid and sugar. You can see the Queen Elizabeth II berries in the photo below.

By growing such strawberries in a greenhouse, you can achieve record yields in Siberian conditions.

The plant is perfect for the harsh climate of Siberia. It is characterized by high resistance to freezing and the effects of pests and diseases.

Detailed information about growing this strawberry in Siberian conditions can be found in the video:

The remontant strawberry variety for Siberia “Lord” is characterized by high yield, especially large fruits and high resistance to freezing. Its fruiting period is mid-early: berries weighing from 60 to 100 g ripen in early July. At the end of summer you can expect the second wave of berries to ripen. They are slightly smaller in size, but are absolutely as good in taste as the first berries: just as sweet, aromatic and juicy.

It is recommended to grow Lord strawberries in well-lit areas of land. The soil on the ridges must be mulched, as this will prevent the berries from rotting. With regular watering and fertilizing, the crop yield will be high and can reach 1 kg/bush.

This is another variety of remontant strawberry that can be used for growing in Siberian conditions. With its help, even in harsh climatic conditions, you can get an early harvest with the arrival of spring. The first Honey berries ripen in open ground at the end of May, but if there is a film shelter or a greenhouse, the ripening process can be accelerated by 2-3 weeks. The second stage of harvesting Honey berries occurs at the end of summer.

The main characteristics of Honey strawberries are high yield (1.2 kg/m2), excellent taste of the fruit, berry size (30 g), and resistance to freezing. You can grow Honey strawberries in open and protected ground in Siberia.

Landing rules

To collect an abundance of juicy, well-balanced berries, it is not enough to carry out standard care measures for strawberries in Siberia - watering, loosening, fertilizing, mulching

In this region, when cultivating in open ground, it is important to choose the right site, determine the optimal planting pattern, and prepare the soil. If you make warm beds, you can create a harvest earlier

Disembarkation dates

Since autumn comes quickly and early here, bushes planted in the beds in the fall do not have time to take root well. Weak plants are susceptible to freezing - even excellent protection is not always able to protect the berry garden in open ground. In cool climates, spring planting is preferred. For planting to be successful, you need to wait for the onset of stable heat, when the threat of return frosts has passed and the soil has warmed up to 12-15 °C. Then the bushes can be planted in a previously prepared area.

Selecting a location

Strawberries grow well in sunny areas protected from the wind. There are shade-tolerant varieties, but it is better to try to allocate places for the berry garden not under the openwork crowns of trees. Good harvests will not be obtained if the area under strawberries is flooded with melt water. If the beds are constantly waterlogged, the berry plant may even die.

If flooding is inevitable or groundwater is close throughout the growing season, it is better to make high beds, raising the plantings above the main soil level. You also need to take into account the predecessors; representatives of the nightshade family are considered bad. Their close proximity is also undesirable.

Attention! Good predecessors of strawberries are beets, all legumes, garlic and oats.

Soil preparation

Strawberries love loose, fertile soil with a neutral reaction. To achieve such characteristics, the site is prepared in advance. In addition, due to the cultivation of varieties with fast growing season, intensive growth requires a lot of nutrients.

For autumn digging, during which weed roots are removed, the following products are applied:

rich chernozem - 1 bucket;
wood ash – ½ kg;
complex mineral fertilizer - 30 g.

Planting scheme

When planting, it is important to meet the requirements for the distance between bushes and rows. For ordinary varieties, it is necessary to leave gaps of at least 25 cm between plants, and for remontant varieties - 50 cm

Saving on space is not appropriate in this case. The row spacing for normal crop development is from 60 cm.

Landing technology

When the deadline arrives, the actual work begins.

Agricultural technology for garden strawberries

Sequencing:

Planting holes are made, maintaining the distance between seedlings according to the chosen pattern.
Bushes taken from the container along with a lump of earth are planted in the recesses.
Water the seedlings abundantly and compact the soil so that there are no air gaps left, which can cause the development of root rot and death of the strawberries.

Mulching the soil

Mulching creates a protective layer on the soil surface. Its additional function is to enrich the soil with nutrients.

To mulch strawberry plantings, you can choose an inorganic material - film, polyethylene or woven material. It is recommended to cover plants in Siberia in the spring to protect them from cold weather.

Organic mulch – straw, hay, sawdust – helps enrich the soil. This layer dries quickly after watering, which reduces the spread of rot on plants. Mulch becomes an obstacle to weed growth.

Advice! If straw is used, it must first be soaked in water and then thoroughly dried in the sun. Before use, sawdust should rest for several days.

Mulching is done in the spring when the first strawberry ovaries appear. Plant stems often droop under the weight of the berries. The protective layer will protect the fruit from contamination.

Important! An obligatory stage of autumn strawberry care in Siberia is covering it for the winter.

For mulching in the fall, synthetic materials, straw, pine needles, and fallen leaves are used. This will keep the plants from freezing until snow cover appears. In spring, mulch will speed up the warming of the soil, which has a positive effect on the rate of ripening of berries.

Strawberry breeding methods

To preserve varietal qualities, they resort to vegetative methods of growing strawberries. I demonstrate the greatest productivity by dividing the bush and propagating by mustaches. However, the last technique is not suitable for beardless forms.

Usami

Strawberry shoots, better known as mustaches, appear in early June, but their active growth and development occurs after harvesting, when fruiting is completely completed. The appearance of new bushes is ensured by small nodules located on the strawberry tendrils. Touching the ground, the shoots take root, and thus a new plant grows. The number of tendrils and rosettes from one bush may vary.

The most common method of propagation is by mustache.

It depends on many nuances:

varieties,
bush age,
soil,
temperature,
irrigation regime.

But regardless of this, to obtain strong specimens, only the first shoots, the strongest, are taken for propagation. The mustaches are laid out along the edges of the bed, and the excess ones are removed. In a week or two, the rosettes will begin to take root. As soon as this happens, you need to cut off the ends of the shoots, but without completely separating them from the mother plant. Developing rosettes are cared for like adult bushes.

Attention! Only in early August, about one week before planting young strawberry bushes in a permanent place, the mustache is separated from the parent specimen. After this, you can safely separate the rosettes and plant them in new beds.

Dividing bushes

This method of propagating strawberries is used a little less frequently. They resort to it when there is a sharp shortage of planting material or when propagating strawberry varieties that are unable to produce mustaches. In any case, the method is effective and worth using.

Work progress:

Strong and healthy plants that have two (maybe three, but less often) tops with a rosette are selected in advance. They are also called horns. Selected specimens are carefully dug up. Using your hands, the sockets are slowly separated from each other.

At this moment, it is very important not to damage the bushes and their root system. With proper division, full-fledged plants are obtained that can produce a good harvest in the first year of fruiting. The resulting planting material is planted in prepared holes.

It is necessary to ensure that the rhizome of the plant is completely covered, otherwise it will dry out quickly. After compacting the soil in the tree trunk circles, all planted bushes are watered abundantly.

Growing strawberries in Siberia in open ground is a labor-intensive process. But if all the requirements are met, even in the harsh conditions of the region, you can enjoy the sweet berries you have personally obtained.

Care

The technology for growing strawberries in open ground includes watering, loosening the soil to a shallow depth, feeding bushes, pruning mustaches, removing weeds, mulching plantings, and preparing strawberries for winter.

Watering and loosening

Agricultural technology for growing strawberries in open ground begins with proper watering of the bushes.

Strawberries do not like both waterlogging and drying out of the soil. Strawberries must be watered: after planting the seedlings in a permanent place; after the buds bloom, when the berries are poured; at the end of summer; at the beginning of autumn. Pour 1 liter of warm, well-settled water under 1 bush.

After watering, they sometimes loosen the soil to a depth of 3–5 cm, but do this carefully so as not to damage the roots. After picking the berries, the soil is also loosened

The last time the soil is loosened is at the end of August, while the bushes are hilled up.

Some gardeners mow the greens after picking berries, doing this carefully, making sure not to damage the core. Next, the leaves are taken and loosened into the soil with hoes.

The basic rule is that this needs to be done at the end of summer, then after 14 days green leaves will grow again. If you prune plants in the fall, they will not have time to grow leaves and the crop will die.

Fertilizers

When young bushes begin to form buds, they are fertilized with a solution of potassium sulfate, pouring it under the root. Pour 30–40 g of the drug into a ten-liter bucket of water. To make as many flowers as possible, strawberries are sprayed with a solution of boric acid, pouring 1 teaspoon into a ten-liter bucket of water.

Adult bushes are watered at the root in the spring with complex fertilizer - nitroammophoska, diluting 1 tbsp. spoon of the drug in a ten-liter bucket of water.

When flowering, fertilize with potassium nitrate, bird droppings, and wood ash. After picking the berries, feed them with nitroammophoska, diluting 2 tbsp. spoons in a ten-liter bucket of water. In August, the crop is fertilized with urea, diluting 30 g of the composition in a ten-liter bucket of water.

Propagation and pruning

Reproduction by mustache. The most powerful mustaches are left on the mother bushes, the rest are cut off. 14 days before transplantation, the children are separated from the mother bush by cutting off the mustache. Then the young rosettes are transplanted to a new location.

If the bushes are already producing berries, then early in the spring they cut off all the old, dry leaves from the bushes. In the summer, all the tendrils are cut off from the bushes, leaving only the tendrils on the mother bushes if they want to propagate strawberries. In the fall, strawberries also have their whiskers trimmed.

Mulching

The secrets of growing strawberries in open ground are to put mulch under the strawberries, which prevents the moisture from drying out and weeds from growing.

Mulch the crop in the spring, then the flower stalks will not come into contact with the ground, and also mulch in the fall so that the strawberries do not freeze in winter.

Straw, chopped grass clippings, compost, humus, and manure can be used as mulch. You can also mulch with inorganic materials - stone, granite, black and colored polyethylene.

Growing strawberries in open ground on film - white, black, two-color film is available for sale. It is required to purchase a mulching film with a thickness of 40–50 microns

Here it is important to calculate the width of the bed and the number of rows

Before planting and after preparing the beds, cover them with film or spunbond, cut holes for the seedlings, and dig out holes. Technology for growing strawberries in open ground, video:

Shelter for the winter

Features of growing strawberries in open ground - they need to be covered in the fall. Cover the bushes if the winter is predicted to be very frosty (up to -20 °C) or there will be little snow, this helps the roots not to freeze. They cover it in the fall, when frosts begin, if it gets warmer outside, then they take the cover, then the plants will not dry out.

For the winter, bushes are covered with pine spruce branches, dry leaves, hay, straw, agrofibre, agrotex, spanboid.

Protection from diseases and pests

Plantings must be weeded to remove weeds and the soil loosened to a certain depth. This will protect the bushes from fungal diseases.

If gray rot appears on the bushes, then before the buds open, the bushes are watered with an iodine solution, pouring 1 teaspoon into a ten-liter bucket of water. After 10 days, this action is repeated.

To prevent diseases, strawberries are treated before flowering and after harvesting:

"Fitosporin" for fungal diseases.
Copper oxychloride against spotting and gray rot.
Potassium permanganate, injecting 2 tbsp. spoons of the drug into a ten-liter bucket of water, it protects strawberries from powdery mildew.

Thanks to this, you can get a rich harvest.

General rules for growing strawberries in open ground

The surface of the bed should have a slight slope towards the southwest.
Lowlands are not suitable for planting strawberries; cold air is retained in them, which has a detrimental effect on strawberry bushes.
It is also not advisable to choose southern slopes for planting; the snow melts on them first, and during the period of spring frosts the plant is left without protection.
The strawberry planting site must be protected from strong cold winds so that in winter a layer of snow remains on it, protecting the plant from freezing.
Strawberries can be grown in the same area for no more than 4 years, then they must be transplanted to another area to protect them from viruses and fungal diseases.
Strawberries love well-lit areas, the berries ripen much more than in the shade, and they are larger and sweeter.
It is necessary to carefully monitor soil moisture. You can’t fill it with water, but don’t let it dry out.
It is not advisable to plant the bushes too close to each other, otherwise the berries will be too small. The optimal distance between plants is about 50 cm.
Strawberries are not demanding on the presence of many minerals in the soil, so they can be planted in places where parsley, dill, spinach, legumes, bulbous flowers (tulips and hyacinths), carrots, corn, radishes and radishes previously grew.
It is not recommended to plant strawberries next to raspberries, hawthorn, rowan and rose hips.
It’s good if corn or legumes grow nearby, which supply the soil with nitrogen.

Site selection

Strawberries require certain conditions that must be provided regardless of the region where they are grown. Plants require plenty of sunlight to bear fruit. Therefore, the beds are placed in such a way that they are not shaded by trees or buildings.

Important! Plants need to be protected from winds to ensure ripening of the berries.

When choosing a place for planting in open ground, the rules of crop rotation are taken into account. It is not allowed to plant strawberries where eggplant, potatoes, tomatoes, cucumbers or cabbage previously grew. Good precursors for strawberries are: garlic, lek, beets, oats, and legumes.

When choosing a site, you need to take into account that Siberia is characterized by severe frosts. High snow cover serves as reliable protection for plants from freezing.

Attention! In case of constant flooding in the spring, the strawberries die.

In spring, the snow begins to melt, resulting in the formation of numerous deep streams. If a spring flow hits a strawberry bed, it will have a detrimental effect on the plantings. As a result, you will have to equip a new area for the berry garden.

Criterias of choice

For planting in Siberia, it is worth choosing winter-hardy plant varieties. In this case, the culture must meet the following criteria:

the ability to grow quickly and produce crops;
high resistance to frost in winter and lower temperatures in spring;
the ability to bear fruit in short daylight conditions;
resistance to fungi, rotting processes, parasites;
great taste.

For planting, it is recommended to choose several varieties of strawberries that differ in fruiting time. This will help to continuously harvest. Many plant species for Siberia have an early or middle fruiting period. Remontant varieties that produce crops from June until the onset of frost are very popular.

Popular species and good varieties for Siberia

For beginners, it is best to focus on well-known varieties that have already proven themselves:

Darenka - this early ripening variety boasts immunity to fungal diseases and pests. Also, such a plant tolerates winter temperatures well and produces a large amount of harvest. The berries are medium-sized (15-20 grams) and have the shape of a blunt cone. The taste is pleasant, sweet and sour;
Kama - this variety has excellent resistance to frost and drought. There is a susceptibility to infection with brown or white spot. Large fruits, weighing 25-35 grams, are made in the shape of a rounded diamond, characterized by the presence of ribbing. When fully ripe, the skin takes on a dark burgundy hue. The pulp is juicy, tender and sweet and sour;
Mashenka is a variety of Russian selection that is perfectly adapted to the conditions of the middle zone. The plant is not afraid of diseases and return frosts, but at the same time produces a good harvest. The leaves on the bushes are large, and the flower stalks are powerful and stable. The oblong, bright red berries have a pleasant taste and strawberry aroma;
Queen Elizabeth - a feature of the remontant variety will be its large and very sweet fruits. The plant can withstand severe frosts, return frosts, insect attacks and diseases. Productivity is always at a high level. The main disadvantage of the variety is that it does not form a mustache, so it will have to be propagated using seeds.

Strawberry propagation methods

It is propagated in several ways. Each of them has its own characteristics. How can I do that?

Propagate by seeds. The most labor-intensive process. Suitable only when there is no other opportunity to get the desired variety or variety, the existing one produces little or no whiskers. When propagating berries (strawberries) using this method, you need to remember that some of the resulting planting material may not have all the qualities characteristic of the mother plant. The laws of character splitting of the widely known science of Genetics work here, so this method is most convenient for breeders. Simple summer residents did not propagate it by seeds before, but even now not many are found.
Dividing the bush. It is used mainly in case of shortage of the desired variety or in case of urgent transfer of a scarce variety to a new location. This usually concerns remontant varieties of strawberries (strawberries), which, as a rule, produce a limited number of runners or do not produce them at all. You can divide the bushes at 2-4 years of age, in autumn or spring. Why do you need to choose the strongest strawberries, with a well-developed root system?
Propagate strawberries by tendrils or rooted rosettes. The best, easiest and favorite way to make your strawberry bed bigger. To do this, you will need strawberry mustaches, which every gardener or his neighbor usually has in abundance, and a little patience. Therefore, this method of reproduction deserves closer attention.

When to plant strawberries in spring, in what month: optimal timing

The timing of planting strawberries is determined based on weather conditions. As soon as the ambient temperature stops dropping below +10 degrees during the day and +5 degrees at night, and the soil warms up to +8-10 degrees, the seedlings can begin to be planted in the ground.

It is believed that return spring frosts are not dangerous for strawberries, but this only applies to garden strawberries that were originally grown in open ground. If you grew it at home from seeds, then in this case it is better to plant it later.

When is it better to plant - in spring or autumn: advantages and disadvantages of planting strawberries in spring

Garden strawberries can be planted both in autumn and spring. It all depends on your capabilities and when you want to get your first harvest.

Benefits of spring planting strawberries:

By autumn, the bushes will have time to form a powerful root system and go into the winter having already taken root 100% in the new place, which means that the likelihood of them (the bushes) freezing will be reduced to a minimum.
If seedlings planted in the spring suddenly begin to dry out, then you can take the necessary measures in time or replace them with new ones.

The main disadvantage of spring planting garden strawberries is that in the first year the plant most likely will not bear fruit (and if flower stalks do appear, they all need to be cut off). But if the strawberries planted in the spring take root well, then next year you will be able to get a rich harvest.

The appropriate timing also depends on what kind of seedlings you have:

Thus, seedlings with a closed root system (ZRS) can be planted at virtually any time: in the spring, at the end of summer, or in the fall.
It is advisable to plant seedlings with an open root system (ORS) in the spring or, at most, at the end of summer.

Video: when is it better to plant strawberries - in spring or autumn

Approximate planting times in different regions (depending on climate)

Due to the fact that the weather in the regions of the country differs significantly, spring planting in different climatic zones should be carried out at different times.

In the South, strawberries can be planted as early as late March or early April.

In the middle zone (Moscow region), due to the temperate climate, spring planting of strawberries begins in the second half of April.

In the North-West (Leningrad region), planting strawberry seedlings can only be done closer to the second half of May, when the ground has warmed up sufficiently.

In Siberia and the Urals, strawberry seedlings are planted in open ground also in the 2-3rd decade of May.

Wake up, strawberries: first care measures

In order for strawberry bushes to “awaken” from winter sleep and begin to grow, warmth is certainly necessary. If spring is early, then the plants will begin their growing season earlier. But natural factors alone are not enough for the successful development of garden strawberries. The gardener will have to work hard.

To get such a wonderful harvest of garden strawberries, you need to start caring for them as soon as the snow melts

As soon as the snow melts and the ground dries just enough to get to the strawberry beds, the following work begins:

Spring-cleaning. In most regions, except the southern ones, strawberries are covered for the winter to protect them from freezing. With covering (mulching) material proceed as follows:
If the strawberries were covered with film, then they need to be disinfected. Small pieces of material are washed and kept in a solution of copper sulfate and copper oxychloride, and large shelters are laid out, washed thoroughly with water and laundry soap and then sprayed with the same fungicides. You can cover the beds with clean dried film when they are ready.
Cleaning plants. From under the snow, strawberry bushes appear untidy, with dry leaves, remnants of runners, and perhaps unplucked flower stalks here and there. All these parts of the plants are also removed, but not torn off, but cut off with garden shears and destroyed. This can be done not only by burning, but also by digging, preferably away from the strawberry bed. The motto of some gardeners and gardeners, “Everything is composted,” is inappropriate for strawberries and can have the most dire consequences, since this berry is very delicate and compost for it should contain only harmless elements. Dry leaves and remaining mustaches must be carefully cut off with pruning shears and destroyed.
When the beds are cleaned and the bushes have acquired a neat appearance, care should be taken to arrange them rationally. Density negatively affects the development of plants; in addition, if the strawberry bushes are not well ventilated, they may be at risk of gray and white rot of the fruit. Therefore, all plants with signs of disease, degeneration, or dwarfism are removed, and young shoots purchased or bred last year from the mustache are planted in the free space. Optimal planting schemes:
- single-line (50–60 cm row from row and 20–30 cm in row between plants);

Planting every 15 cm in a row is used less and less, since many varieties of strawberries that constantly appear on the market have a powerful leaf rosette and produce two harvests per year, therefore they need a larger feeding area.

Renewal and enrichment of soil. Some gardeners advise removing the top layer of soil to allow the roots to warm up better. But garden strawberries have a peculiarity: over time, they begin to “stick out” from the ground, so they need more fresh fertile soil rather than removal of old soil. Therefore, the soil is loosened and rotted manure and humus are added (a bucket per square meter).

If the roots of the plant are exposed, you need to cover them with fertile soil or humus

If the soil has dried out, water the bed generously before loosening. In spring, it is better to water strawberries by sprinkling - this promotes leaf growth

Caring for bushes after fruiting

At the end of the harvest, the straw litter is collected and removed from the plantation. After picking the berries, you can spray the plantation with Zineb or Fthalan against spotting and powdery mildew. When there is a massive proliferation of spider mites and strawberry mites, Keltan is added to the composition.

In case of severe infestation with spider mites and strawberry mites, it is recommended to mow down and remove leaves from the plantation - this also increases the effectiveness of subsequent chemical treatments. If you are not a fan of using chemicals, be sure to do this, especially for older plants. If spots and powdery mildew develop, a month after harvesting, another spraying with colloidal sulfur is carried out.

Strawberry bushes should be mowed no later than July, since it takes about 6 weeks for the new green mass to fully grow. The leaves are cut with scissors, a sickle or a scythe at least 1–2 cm from the beginning of the growth of the horns. Then add ammonium nitrate and water it 1-2 times.

Removing leaves after harvesting:

enhances the growth of the root system;
stops mustache growth;
creates favorable conditions for increasing the effectiveness of pesticides in the fight against diseases and pests;
is an effective measure in weed control;
increases yield.

Important! Delay in mowing leaves only causes harm and weakens the plants.

All whiskers should be removed immediately as they appear, leaving only on the mother bushes. The cut leaves are carefully collected and placed in compost, and if they are infected with one or another infection, they are buried to a depth of at least 30–40 cm.

Strawberries are pruned before July so that new foliage has time to grow.

After harvesting, you can spray strawberries if there is a high incidence of plant diseases. Usually at this time they use Fufanon, Topaz or copper sulfate.

At the end of summer, weeds are controlled on the plantations, the soil is loosened, and humus is poured onto the beds.

You should not be late with the listed work - post-harvest care is very important for obtaining a good harvest next year.

At the beginning of August, the same work continues and areas are prepared for new plantings. Strawberry seedlings are planted in the first half of August so that the bushes take root well before the onset of frost.

If the plants develop poorly during the season, it is not too late to feed them. This can be done with a weak solution of mullein or chicken droppings. Liquid fertilizers are applied into furrows made at a distance of 15–20 cm from the bushes. For 3–4 linear meters, use a bucket of nutrient liquid (one part of organic matter to 10–12 parts of water).

Fertilizing strawberries with manure increases yield

Foliar feeding of strawberries is also effective. For example, treatment with a 0.3% urea solution during this period promotes the formation of flower buds. On poor soils, you can spray the bushes with a weak solution of microelements (0.2% each of potassium permanganate, boric acid and ammonium molybdate).

On a note. If strawberries have been growing in your garden for more than 4-5 years, there is no point in maintaining them in this place: fruiting will fade, and problems will accumulate. It is better to destroy the old plantation and plant a new one. Therefore, it is necessary to quickly prepare the beds for new plantings. The sooner you can plant strawberries, the better. It will take root more reliably and faster, will develop new leaves faster, and therefore the first harvest of the new year can be expected to be quite noticeable. It is advisable to finish planting at least before the beginning of September.

With good watering, trimmed strawberry bushes quickly become covered with healthy leaves.

Strawberries planted at the end of summer have time to take root well by the end of the season, and new leaves begin to grow on them. True, this requires a lot of work:

water regularly;
loosen the soil;
destroy weeds.

Autumn events

In autumn, a plantation on chernozems is dug to a depth of 30–40 cm, and on podzolic soils it is shallower: 20–30 cm. The soil under the bushes and between the rows is mulched with peat, humus or half-rotted manure in a layer of about 5 cm to make wintering conditions easier for the plants. At the same time, the bushes that have risen during growth are slightly hilled to cover the exposed roots.

Digging the beds in the fall helps strawberries survive the winter

You should constantly remove the mustache that is no longer needed. Whiskers deplete the plant. The sooner you remove them, the better.

Weeds that grow between rows in September-October should not be weeded: they will serve as protection and contribute to the accumulation of snow.

In late autumn, shortly before the onset of persistent frosts, they dig up the soil between the rows or simply loosen it deeply. Then the plantation is covered with humus, and snow retention measures are carried out just before the onset of winter. Good mulching between rows will help prevent roots from freezing.

Preparing the plantation for winter

It should be remembered that strawberries are the least winter-hardy berries grown in summer cottages. Lowering the soil temperature to -10 °C leads to significant damage to the roots. At -15 °C the leaves are severely damaged and often die completely. Snow protects strawberries from freezing. A layer 5 cm high protects plants at -15 °C, and a 20 cm layer protects plants down to -20 °C.

In snowless winters, strawberries are protected by adding mulch to the bushes (a layer of at least 10 cm), and covered with spruce or pine spruce branches when the temperature drops to -5–7 °C. There is no need to cover the berries during less severe frosts - this can cause damping off of the bushes.

It is important to prepare the plants for wintering with good care, especially in the second half of summer, and in dry autumn conditions - by pre-winter watering (October). You can protect plants from the wind, if there are no shelterbelts or curtains, by placing shields. They are installed before the snow falls. A snow cover of even 10–15 cm protects plants from frosts down to -15–18 ° C. To protect plants from severe frosts (minus 30–35 ° C), the snow cover should be 30–40 cm.

Shields for snow retention are made from stakes 100–120 cm high and crossbars 150 cm long. Then brushwood is braided between them so that the gaps make up about 75% of the shield area. If there is no brushwood, then you can use non-woven materials.

Sheltering strawberries for the winter saves the plant's roots from death

With proper pre-winter care and reliable winter shelter in accordance with the local climate, strawberries will delight you with a tasty and large harvest next year.

Video: covering strawberries for the winter

Watering strawberry plantings in spring

Immediately after wintering, the soil is well saturated with melt water. But moisture evaporates very quickly and strawberry plantations need to be watered regularly. Since the root system of strawberries is superficial and never goes deeper into the ground than 20–30 cm, water deficiency has an extremely negative effect on the development of the crop and the formation of the ovary. The need for early spring watering can be determined visually by the type of plants. If the leaves have withered and begin to curl inward, then the plantings need to be moistened urgently.

The need for early spring watering of strawberries is determined by the appearance of the plants.

There is a proven way to determine the need for watering. To do this, dig a hole about 30 cm deep. Take a handful of earth from its bottom and squeeze it in the palm of your hand. If, after unclenching your fingers, the soil sample breaks up into large pieces, then moistening is not yet required. A lump of earth crumbling into dust signals a lack of moisture and the urgency of watering.

Water the berry crop abundantly; the soil should be saturated to a depth of at least 40 cm. On average, each bush will require about ½ liter of liquid. In the absence of rain, strawberry beds are moistened once every 5–7 days. It is best to do this in the early morning before sunrise or in the evening after sunset. Before the first flowers appear, the planting can be watered using sprinkling methods (from a watering can), this stimulates more luxuriant growth of the above-ground green part. Subsequently, watering is carried out between rows or in special holes dug between the bushes, as well as by drip method.

Before flowering, strawberries can be watered from a watering can.

The crop reacts negatively to the temperature of the irrigation liquid. It is not recommended to water plants with cold water from a well or well. You need to let it sit a little and warm up in the sun. Excessive moisture is very harmful for strawberries, since excessive moisture levels create favorable conditions for the development of fungal infections and rot. This is especially true during fruit setting and ripening. If the weather is cool and rainy, watering should be stopped.

After the first high-quality moistening, you need to mulch the beds with fresh straw, mown grass, sawdust, pine needles, etc. This will help retain moisture in the soil for a longer time and reduce the frequency of watering. The mulch layer should be about 3–5 cm. Some gardeners use non-woven covering materials or dark plastic film for this purpose.

After watering, strawberries are mulched

We have been using grass cut from the lawn as mulch for several years now. During the period of active growth, it grows especially quickly and has to be mowed frequently. Our lawn is considered sporty and the grass on it has small, neat, narrow leaves. Even when mowed, it looks unusually decorative and does not at all spoil the appearance of the beds that have been mulched with it, not to mention the undoubted benefits it brings.

Victoria variety: strawberry or wild strawberry?

It is generally accepted that strawberries are grown in fields and gardens, and wild strawberries are wild berries from the forest. Is this really true? In fact, quite a few strawberries in the garden beds are in fact garden strawberries, including the Victoria variety. What's the difference?

Strawberries have small, pointed berries with rich, aromatic pulp. Bushes are divided into male (flowers contain only stamens - they do not bear fruit) and female (with pistil flowers). For berries to set, female plants must be pollinated with pollen from male bushes, which is why strawberries have low yields and not all gardeners grow them.

The fruits of garden strawberries are larger, taste juicy, tender, with a slight sourness. Strawberry flowers contain pistils and stamens, do not require additional pollination, and therefore always produce a harvest. In one place, the bushes actively bear fruit for an average of 3–5 years, and then it is recommended to renew the plantings.

Left - strawberries, right - wild strawberries

When and how to transplant strawberries in spring

Over time, strawberry bushes age, and after 3-5 years they produce a weak harvest. They need to be replaced with new ones by growing specimens from whiskers.

But, if most of the strawberries froze over the winter, or vineless varieties grow in the garden bed, then old specimens can be rejuvenated by dividing them into sections and replanting them in a new bed.

The event should begin when the soil has completely thawed and the air has warmed up to a temperature of +10 °C. In the southern regions, the event should begin at the end of March, in the central regions - in the last days of April, and in the northern regions - from mid-May.

REFERENCE. Crops can be replanted even at zero temperatures, but only if, according to the forecast, a thaw will occur in the coming days. Strawberries will survive short frosts and produce a harvest this season.

You need to replant strawberries in the spring after winter according to the following algorithm:

Dig up the overgrown old bush, trying not to destroy the earthen ball, so as not to damage the roots.
Place the seedling in a wide bowl. Using sterilized scissors, carefully remove all dried leaves and shoots.
Pour water into the container, and when the soil is slightly wet, carefully free the roots from it.
Divide the bush into horns. As a rule, divisions themselves move away from the mother plant. But you can cut the horns from the bush with a sharp and disinfected knife. It is important that each division contains an apical bud and a sufficient number of roots.
Remove excess foliage from all horns, leaving 2 on the central and side stems. Also trim off too old, darkened roots. Shorten the remaining leaves by ½ length.
Treat the roots of the divisions with a solution of “Fitosporin” and hold for 20-30 minutes in any growth stimulator (“Kornevin”, “Epin”).
For seedlings, dig planting holes with dimensions suitable for the volume of roots.
Place the divisions in the center of the recesses, and pull their roots vertically down. Fill the voids with soil so that the root collar (strawberry heart) is level with the ground. If you bury the growing point, the seedling will rot. And if the roots are severely exposed, the strawberry bush will freeze.
After planting, water the bed generously and mulch its surface with straw.

Replanting old strawberry bushes in spring

When everything is tidied up and in order, you need to conduct a detailed audit of all the plants that survived the winter. Overwintered bushes are carefully examined for viability. Dead, dried or too weak specimens must be pulled out and destroyed. To prevent bald spots in the beds, new plants are planted in the vacant spaces. As planting material, you can use well-established strong mustaches or divide the mother bush into several parts.

Other strawberry bushes are transplanted into the empty spaces left after dead plants.

This needs to be done as quickly as possible, then the transplanted bushes will have time to take root well before the onset of hot summer time. During the rapid growth of green mass, the root system also actively grows. This period is considered the most favorable for transplanting strawberries. The plant will easily tolerate minor damage to small roots.

Transplantation is carried out using the following technology:

They dig up the damaged specimen under the root and remove it along with the clod of earth, since pests like to settle in the soil between the roots.
Several mature bushes are selected for seedlings. You can use last year's rooted strong mustache.
Divide the rhizome into parts. Each fragment must have its own growing point and at least 2-3 leaves.
The roots are dipped in a weak solution of potassium permanganate (light pink).
Dig and prepare a hole. Apply nitrogen fertilizer, peat or humus.
The hole is filled with water. The liquid should be settled and slightly warm (not cold well or tap water).
After the water is absorbed, the seedling is placed in the planting hole.
Holding the plant by the core, fill the hole with soil. The growing point should not be buried, as the bush may rot.
Water generously again.

For transplantation, adult strawberry bushes are used, which are carefully divided into parts.

In the spring they are busy arranging new beds. Strawberries are transplanted to another place every 3–4 years. This crop produces its maximum yield in the second and third years of life, then the yield drops sharply. The soil is depleted, the number of pests is rapidly increasing and the plants begin to get sick often, so after this time the strawberry plantation needs to be rejuvenated.

Strawberry planting cleaning and pruning

If the berry plantations were insulated for the winter, then it is necessary to remove the shelter as soon as possible so that the bushes do not become covered in the event of sudden warming. The roll insulation is carefully rolled up and put away before the autumn cold. Some gardeners cover strawberries in the fall with branches, spruce branches, sawdust, hay, vegetable tops or other plant debris. All this needs to be removed. Dry leaves and last year's mulch layer are raked with a rake. In the spring, this mulch is more likely to interfere, since the root system warms up worse, the plant wakes up later and does not begin to grow well.

Rake all dry leaves and debris, then burn

There is no need to be afraid to pull out the plant with a rake. A normal healthy strawberry bush is held very firmly in the ground due to its branched roots. Rough mechanical impact using a rake is not capable of causing significant harm to strawberries. Only sick or weak specimens are easily pulled out.

Using pruning shears or garden shears, cut out all old, damaged, dead leaves, remaining tendrils and last year's flower stalks. They mercilessly remove everything unnecessary, leaving only a few fresh green leaves. Root leaves lying on the ground must also be removed. Then you need to walk along the surface of the soil with a hard broom, raking up small debris. All plant organic remains must be carefully collected and burned, since pathogens of various infectious diseases gather on them, and insect pests (weevils, aphids, etc.) also hibernate in them.

Use pruning shears or garden shears to trim off all last year's leaves and remaining tendrils.

Berry plantings are carefully loosened, trying not to damage the roots. The row spacing is treated with a hoe or hoe. Loosening improves soil aeration and helps better retain moisture in the soil under the plants. You need to carefully adjust the beds with strawberries. If the roots are exposed, then it is necessary to add soil under the bushes. Pieces of soil should not be allowed to fall into the center of the bush; the growing point should always be above the soil level. If necessary, if the plant has gone too deep into the ground during wintering, it needs to be raised a little. It is carefully dug out and raised to the desired level.

Strawberry beds must be loosened after removing debris and pruning.

It is best to prune strawberries immediately after fruiting. In Siberia, this time falls at the end of July or beginning of August. We have been practicing burning using a gas burner for several years. Old foliage burns along with the pests and fungal spores present on it. In this case, the bush itself does not suffer. Almost immediately after this procedure, green young leaves grow, and before the onset of autumn, the strawberry manages to acquire a lush and healthy crown. In the spring, you don’t have to bother with pruning for a long time; you can remove the overwintered ground part and debris in literally half an hour. The main thing is to be in time before fresh shoots appear. Otherwise, it will be inconvenient to use a rake, since it is extremely easy to damage fragile leaves.

Rules of care and agricultural technology

To achieve the desired harvest and maintain the health of strawberries, they monitor watering, fertilize, prune, renew plants, fight pests and diseases, and cover for the winter.

Irrigation

The weather conditions of the northern region include frequent precipitation. Therefore, you need to carefully monitor watering. Strawberries will not grow well in waterlogged soil. Water the bushes as the soil dries out.

Fertilizer application

Gardeners have different opinions about fertilizing. Some believe that the fertilizers provided during planting are enough for the next three years. Others believe that it is necessary to fertilize plants during the formation of ovaries and fruiting. When applying fertilizers, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers and nitrogen compounds are used. They are applied by the root method in the form of a solution or dry powder.

Pruning and propagation

For propagation, leave 2-3 bushes in a row. When ovaries form, they are cut off so that the plants spend energy on rooting. The formation of ovaries is monitored throughout the season. The mustaches that are furthest from the mother bush are also trimmed.

Important! The strongest and healthiest bushes are chosen for propagation.

Strawberries can also be propagated by seed. To do this, they study the question of whether the selected variety is capable of propagation by seeds. If it is suitable, then select several berries and leave them on the bush until fully ripened. After breaking, remove the top peel and dry it. Then small seeds are selected for seeds and washed to remove the pulp. In winter, seeds are planted from a crust with soil and seedlings are grown.

Diseases and pests

In order to avoid diseases and attacks by harmful insects, it is recommended to choose varieties with high resistance and strong immunity. However, with frequent flooding of the beds, unfavorable growing conditions and non-compliance with the rules of agricultural technology, the crop is susceptible to diseases:

Fusarium. The fungus penetrates the root and disrupts the vascular system of the leaves.
Late blight. The plant dies slowly, red spots form on it along the axial cylinder.
Gray rot. It affects fruits and young ovaries; a lush gray coating forms on them.
Powdery mildew. Fungi spread to the leaves in the form of white spots. Leaves should be trimmed immediately and sprayed with fungicides.
Brown spot. Red and brown spots appear on the leaves. From small spots they grow into large ones. This disrupts the functioning of plant organs.

To combat these diseases I use antifungal fungicides. Spraying is carried out 2-3 times per season. The most common insects that harm strawberries are:

strawberry weevil;
strawberry mite;
nematode;
leaf beetle;
sawfly;
spider mite;
whitefly;
aphid.

To kill harmful insects, plants are sprayed with broad-spectrum insecticides. Treatment is carried out 2-3 times per season, as needed.

Important! When growing mustard next to strawberries, there will be fewer pests on the site.