✅ About growing eggplants in the Urals in open ground and greenhouses: pest control

How to plant and grow eggplants in a greenhouse

Hello, dear summer residents, gardeners and simply those who like to relax outside the city.
Are you already accustomed to enjoying your own vegetables and fruits straight from the garden, having mastered the cultivation of a classic set of crops? But what to do if your body wants something dietary, your soul wants eggplant, but your hands don’t know where to start? Start with this article - today we will talk about how to plant eggplants and care for them in a greenhouse. There are already detailed articles on the website about growing seedlings of these nightshades. From them you will learn when and how to plant correctly, how to water seedlings, what kind of feeding seedlings need and what diseases are dangerous for young eggplants, what kind of problems arise - it’s impossible to list everything. But in our conditions, this is the necessary minimum, because planting eggplant seedlings is the only way to wait for the harvest for most gardeners.

And now the topic of conversation is planting eggplant seedlings and subsequent care of the crop until harvest. And since heat-loving blueberries in Russia are easier to cultivate in closed ground beds, we are discussing growing and caring for them in a greenhouse.

Harvesting

After receiving the eggplant harvest, many farmers want to prepare the seeds themselves in order to plant them for seedlings next season. This can be done. Select several of the largest fruits in the garden and leave them in a warm room for 5-10 days, for example, place them on a window. As a result, you will receive new seed.

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The eggplants themselves cannot always be stored in cellars for long enough. It is better to preserve them or use them in cooking. The main thing is to know when to plant seeds to obtain seedlings, and how to carry out all stages of plant care competently and without special financial costs.

Choosing a place

Lucky southerners do not have to install a permanent structure for eggplants - a stationary greenhouse, if they grow little blue ones just for themselves. Under the gentle sun of the Crimea, the Caucasus, the Stavropol and Krasnodar territories, private owners make do with greenhouses, protecting the plantings for the first half of the summer, and then removing the covering material stretched on the arcs.

But for residents of the Middle Zone, the Urals, and even more so for Siberians, it is difficult to grow eggplants without a polycarbonate greenhouse or at least glass.

The more reliable the structure - foundation, tightness, even heating - the sooner the seedlings will move into the heifer and begin to develop in a permanent place. This means that the summer resident harvests his harvest earlier and for longer.

A greenhouse placed in a sunny, open place will provide the eggplants with plenty of light and warmth. And the nutritional value of the soil is the gardener’s concern. After all, the third commandment when growing blueberries (after heat and sun) is nutrition.

Soil preparation

So, the greenhouse has been installed, the eggplant variety has been selected - now you need to take care of the land in which the vegetables will grow

In the Urals and other places where the soils themselves are not very fertile, special attention should be paid to this. It is necessary to begin preparation in the fall

First of all, it is necessary to remove the remains of what grew in this place before. Then water the planting site twice with water, thereby clearing it of the remnants of previous fertilizers. The next stage is disinfection so that no diseases or pests remain in the ground. As a rule, a solution of copper sulfate is used for these purposes.

Next, you should dig up the soil or at least loosen it thoroughly, and then start fertilizing. Organic fertilizers, such as manure or compost, work well for growing eggplants in a polycarbonate greenhouse. You can also add dolomite flour to them. It reduces soil acidity and contains magnesium, which has a beneficial effect on the growth and development of vegetables.

It will also be useful to add a little peat, ash and potassium sulfate to the soil.

Fertilize

The ideal soil preparation scheme is as follows:

In the fall, after harvesting, we clean the beds of roots, weeds, and debris.
Spray the soil with hot potassium permanganate or copper sulfate (2 tablespoons per bucket of water). Option – “Fitosporin”. We wash the walls, pipes, and supports with the same potassium permanganate, or the mustard will wash everything off and destroy the fungus.
Lightly dig and loosen the soil, adding a bucket of compost or half a bucket of rotted manure every couple of steps. If you know that the soil is acidic, immediately scatter 2 tablespoons at the same distance for digging. dolomite flour.
Let's level it out, make frequent small furrows and sow green manure. A better mixture is mustard, phacelia, vetch, oats. Each herb will contribute to the future harvest of blueberries. The green manure plants will sprout - we’ll leave them for the winter: we’ll cut them so that the greenery will die down or let them overwinter on the root.

In the spring, all that remains is to dig the dry remains of green manure into the soil, level the beds and prepare holes for eggplants. What are the benefits of regular greening of land:

soil disinfection: displacement of insect larvae, fungal spores, viruses;
fertilizer: enrichment with microelements plus nitrogen, phosphorus;
soil structuring: roots loosen the soil, creating channels for air and moisture;
getting rid of crop rotation: without green manure, you will have to change the place where to grow eggplants every year (and with greenhouses this is difficult), green manures neutralize the risks of cultivating vegetables on one site for several years in a row.

When transplanting eggplants grown at home to a garden bed in a greenhouse, each hole is additionally flavored with half a glass of ash.

Choosing a container for planting eggplants

Eggplants are very picky. This applies to both temperature indicators and germination conditions.

The seeds of the crop require free space, so planting in a common container is undesirable, but in extreme cases it is acceptable. When planting in a common container, place the seeds at a distance of at least 4 cm.

Preference should be given to separate containers to provide their own environment for each seed:

Plastic glasses. 200 ml – for sowing seeds. 500 ml – at the transshipment stage.

Cons: no drainage holes. We'll have to do it ourselves.

You will need a common tray for watering.

Plastic containers.

Minuses. There may be no holes. In this case, distribute expanded clay and sand along the bottom.

Plastic cassettes. An ideal planting container for eggplants because the root is not damaged during replanting.
Peat tablets. Ideal for sowing eggplants. They have an optimal composition and are easily replanted if necessary.
Peat pots and glasses. Perfect for eggplants. You can plant in smaller containers, planting them in larger ones when the moment comes that requires transshipment. The shell dissolves easily, which allows you to put smaller volumes into larger ones with the addition of soil at the edges.

Wooden and plastic containers, such as large containers, suitable for planting a large number of eggplant seedlings are acceptable.

We plant

In greenhouses, the ground warms up much earlier, so summer residents have time to prepare the soil when the snow outside the walls of the structure is still melting. But you can’t rush to plant seedlings. These little blue ones are too heat-loving crops. In terms of timing, the picture is something like this:

in the Moscow region, according to the weather, May is suitable for planting;
in Siberia, before June, eggplants are comfortable only in heated greenhouses, and ordinary summer residents take out seedlings in the first days of summer;
in the southern Urals they manage to land by the end of May, and in the north they are guided by Siberian deadlines;
the southern regions begin to replant eggplants in greenhouses from February-March (Crimea), March-April (Stavropol region, Krasnodar).

It is important that the soil in the greenhouse is already warmed up to at least 15 degrees. The seedlings are not afraid of night frosts - we are in the house.

The distance between the holes depends on the size of the bushes. Therefore, we carefully read the characteristics of the variety. On average, it is recommended to plant no closer than 40x40 cm, and make row spacing up to 60 cm, especially if the bushes promise to be large. The technology for planting eggplant seedlings is not so difficult as to frighten a beginner.

But a novice eggplant grower should thoroughly familiarize himself with the agricultural technology of the blue-sided vegetable.

Favorable days for planting eggplants in February according to the lunar calendar:

from 1st to 8th – the optimal time for digging and loosening the soil, planting, foliar feeding of all ground crops;
from the 10th to the 22nd - all the power of the waning moon is directed to the root system;
from the 27th to the 29th are good days for hatching seeds.

The most suitable time for the first spring plantings coincides with: March 1-8, 10-23. For those who grow vegetables in a greenhouse, you can add another segment from the 27th to the 31st. No work should be carried out on March 9, 24-26.

Water and ventilate

After planting the seedlings, leave them alone for five days and let them grow quietly. If it is too hot and sunny, shade it with newspapers or white agrofibre for a couple of days. After this period, sprinkle abundantly at least once a week, but only early in the morning, before the heat sets in. At the same time, water and sun should not come into contact with the leaves, so as not to burn the greens.

Then cover the ground with mulch and ventilate the greenhouse until the evening. Eggplants need moist soil, but not air. But at the same time, unlike tomatoes, blue tomatoes do not like drafts, so the doors or windows located opposite them do not need to be opened immediately.

The plant is very moisture-loving. The slightest omission by the summer resident, and the eggplant leaves droop, even turn yellow. Therefore, care involves monitoring soil and air moisture. During the flowering and ripening period, avoid sprinkling: water each bush separately, but 2 times a week. The soil must be saturated with moisture at least 20 cm from the surface.

The ideal air temperature is 28°C. But in the heat, under polycarbonate, even in Siberia, the air heats up. The only way is ventilation. If at night they promise 20°C or higher, then there is no need to completely close the greenhouse - leave either the door or the windows open. But in the morning we open it early for ventilation. The longer the heat lasts, we water more often and more abundantly.

Step-by-step instructions for sowing eggplant seeds for seedlings

For proper and good eggplant seedlings, it is important not only to plant correctly, but also to perform pre-sowing preparation, which includes choosing a container, preparing the soil, and treating the seeds. Each of these stages forms a single mosaic of a correctly carried out procedure.

Selection of capacity

Nowadays, there are different options for landing containers. All of them have bright and attractive advantages and disadvantages. Specifically, for growing eggplant seedlings at home, it is necessary to choose separate, bulky containers, since the seedlings of this crop do not tolerate picking well. Let's look at the main planting containers that can be used in this case.

Important! The container should be large and spacious. Approximate volume: 250-500 ml.

1) Plastic cups . A very popular planting container, loved by many summer residents because of its availability and low cost. It is convenient to plant seeds in plastic cups, care for seedlings, plant them in open ground. But before use, be sure to make a drainage hole at the bottom of the glass.

2) Plastic cassettes . Cells made of plastic are interconnected. They can be used conveniently and easily transported (for example, to the country house). Also, plastic cassettes have a reasonable price. The disadvantages include the fragility of the product; if used carelessly, the cells can easily be damaged.

3) Peat pots (cups) . The container looks like an ordinary glass, only it is made of peat. It turns out that the landing container is made of environmentally friendly materials. You can plant a seedling in open ground directly in a peat pot. When growing seedlings in peat cups, you need to carefully monitor the soil moisture, since peat pots tend to dry out quickly.

4) Peat tablets . They are pressed peat, protected with a special fabric and impregnated with nutrients. Planting in tablets allows you to grow seedlings without picking. Peat tablets are very convenient to use (no need to prepare the soil or fertilize) and are convenient to plant in open ground. But they require constant control of humidity, otherwise when they dry out they will decrease in size and the plant roots may be damaged.

5) Wooden or plastic box . The least suitable container for growing eggplant seedlings that do not favor picking. But if you want to plant in just such a container, then you need to do this according to all the rules, providing complete care after planting. Of the undoubted advantages, it is worth noting the low cost and availability of landing capacity.

Soil preparation

For growing eggplant seedlings at home, soil that has the following characteristics is ideal:

has a neutral pH (6.5-7);
light and loose;
has good air and moisture permeability;
fertile.

You can use universal soil for growing seedlings, which can be bought in specialized stores. Such soil already has all the necessary properties and has an optimal composition. Or you can prepare the soil with your own hands at home.

To make your own soil for eggplants, you need to mix the following ingredients:

turf land (1 part);
humus (2 parts);
peat (1 part);
sawdust (0.5 parts).

Video: soil preparation option.

Five days before sowing, it is necessary to disinfect the soil . The disinfection procedure will help destroy pathogenic and dangerous pathogens in the soil. You can leave the soil in the oven for 30 minutes, pour boiling water over it, pour over it with a pink solution of potassium permanganate or the drug “Previkur”, “Fitosporin”.

Selection of eggplant seeds

Probably every summer resident who has at least once grown seedlings at home knows that high-quality seed material is the key to good, strong seedlings. Therefore, when choosing eggplant seeds for sowing, follow the following rules:

It is necessary to buy seed from trusted sellers. If this is your first time encountering a specialized point of sale or online store, you should read the reviews.
It is better to choose seeds of hybrid varieties. The fact is that they are more resistant to diseases and environmental influences, and can also produce a richer harvest.
The seed packaging must contain all the necessary information (for example, expiration date, legal address, information about the variety).
It is recommended to choose seeds that are less than four years old.

Preparing seeds for sowing

Pre-sowing seed treatment is an important and useful procedure; it helps to significantly increase the percentage of germination and improves the quality of seedlings. Preparation awakens the seed, accelerates germination, increases immunity, and eliminates various pathogens found on the seed coat.

Most often, before sowing eggplant seeds, the following treatment is performed (one or two are enough):

Calibration — the processing method helps determine the quality of the material, check for germination, and identify strong, viable seeds. To sort, you need to make a saline solution (one teaspoon per glass of warm water), pour the seeds into the water, and stir the solution with a spoon. Leave for 20 minutes. Those seeds that float to the surface are not viable and need to be eliminated. And the seeds that have sunk to the bottom are suitable for sowing. Rinse and dry them.
Warming up - a processing method based on the effect of heat allows you to awaken the seeds and eliminate pathogenic pathogens. 1.5 months before planting, place the seeds in a fabric bag and place them next to the battery. In this case, it is necessary to shake and turn the bags over from time to time to avoid rotting. In addition, there is a faster way to warm up - using hot water. Fill the thermos with water at a temperature of 50 degrees. Place the seeds in a bag and place in a thermos for five minutes and then dry.
Disinfection (etching) - treatment aimed at eliminating bacterial and fungal pathogens from the surface of the seed. For disinfection, you can immerse the seed in a dark solution of potassium permanganate or a solution of hydrogen peroxide (1 tablespoon of a three percent peroxide solution per half liter of water). Keep the seeds in the solution for twenty minutes. And then take it out, rinse under running water and dry.
Hardening - one of the varieties of the preparatory stage, the meaning of which is the effect of low temperature. To harden, you need to put the seeds in a damp cloth bag or wrap them in damp gauze. They should remain in this state for about 14-16 hours at room temperature. After this time, you need to move the seeds to the refrigerator for 12 hours. And then move it again to a room at room temperature for 14-16 hours.
Soak — treatment helps speed up the emergence of seedlings. Germination must be carried out three days before sowing. Place the seed in a fabric bag or wrap it in gauze, place it on a saucer and fill it with water at room temperature (the water should slightly cover the fabric). Place the saucer in a plastic bag.

Landing method without picking

As noted above, the crop does not like picking, so it is better to immediately plant it in separate large containers. The following step-by-step instructions will help you correctly plant eggplant seeds for seedlings in separate containers :

Make drainage holes at the bottom of the planting container.
It is also recommended to pour a drainage layer one centimeter thick. Sand and perlite can be used as drainage.
After you have prepared and disinfected the soil, you need to fill the planting containers. There should be a gap of 2-3 centimeters between the soil and the edge of the container.
Now you need to water the soil generously.
Transfer the seed. To pick up the seed, you can use a wooden toothpick.
Then you need to immerse the seed in the soil to a depth of one centimeter. You can sow three or four seeds in one separate container, and when the seeds sprout, you can choose the strongest sprout and pinch off the rest or cut off with scissors.
Lightly spray the soil with a spray bottle. The water must be clean, settled and at room temperature.
And finally, it is recommended to cover the containers with film, a transparent lid or glass and put them in a warm place with a temperature of 25-28 degrees.

Sowing followed by picking

It is also possible to sow eggplant seedlings in a common container, for example, a plastic or wooden box. The planting pattern in a box is the same as when planting in separate containers, but some features need to be taken into account. After you have laid the drainage layer, soil, and watered, you need to perform the following manipulations:

Make small grooves about a centimeter deep. There should be a distance of 4 centimeters between the rows.
You need to sow one seed per furrow. There should be a gap of about 2 centimeters between the seeds.
Sprinkle the seeds with soil so that there is a distance of about 1 centimeter between them and the surface of the earth.
We also irrigate with a spray bottle, cover with film, a lid or glass, and put it in a warm place.

Video: how to properly plant eggplant seeds in a common container.

Forming

Even when choosing low-growing varieties for cultivation, the gardener has to intervene in the formation of bushes:

All stepsons are plucked from the bottom to the first bud;
the lower leaves lying on the ground are also cut off;
to stimulate branching, pinch the crown if a fork does not appear 30-35 cm from the ground;

Tall bushes are tied up like tomatoes to prevent the shoots from falling.

A resident of the Moscow region tells how to remove shoots and maintain the resilience of plants after a stressful intervention in a video on the topic:

We don't get sick

Eggplant diseases (tobacco mosaic, late blight) occur due to excessive humidity and are carried by pests. If aphids feel comfortable when it is damp, then spider mites are comfortable in dry air.

When should you protect eggplants? Yes, at the very beginning, when the seeds are treated with phytosporin or potassium permanganate. Before taking the seedlings out of the house into the garden, they are also sprayed with universal preparations, for example, Fitoverm. It is better to keep on hand similar insectoacaricides that can cope with aphids or whiteflies, and with mites, against which conventional insecticides are useless.

For more information about pests and diseases of eggplants with photos of insects and affected bushes, read the article on this topic.

Hopefully, with a test of patience, you will receive the large, firm blue fruits of the southern nightshades. Don’t rush to pluck - take a pruning shears, walk sedately through your greenhouse property, choose the most beautiful ones, and carefully cut them. Let the rest grow up.

You know how to cook and what to eat them with without me. I just wish you bon appetit. But after a delicious lunch, share our article with your friends on social networks. Surely they will want to follow your example. And so that every day passes with the same benefit as today, subscribe to our blog.

Seedling care

When the best varieties of eggplant, selected by you for cultivation in your summer cottage, are planted and the seedlings are actively developing, you need to be able to provide proper care for them. This is not an easy task, but a competently carried out process will largely determine your further results. What recommendations should both beginners and experienced gardeners follow:

You should not place containers with seedlings in a cool place, for example, on a windowsill. In addition, sometimes farmers forget that plants can only be watered with warm and pre-settled water;
In the first days after the first shoots appear, it is worth creating an optimal microclimate for the seedlings. This includes a relatively high temperature (18-20 degrees) and moderate humidity. Do not forget to ventilate the room in which eggplant seedlings grow.

As for watering, it should not be done too often, otherwise excess moisture can lead to the death of the plant. It will be enough to irrigate the soil once every three days. Another significant nuance is lighting. Eggplant seedlings require 12 hours of full light daily. If you cannot naturally provide such a moment, use lighting with table lamps or lamps.

Eggplant pests in a greenhouse and control methods: expert advice

Growing eggplants can be much easier than saving the little blue fruits from uninvited guests. A climate favorable to pests contributes to their spread and dominance of eggplant beds. Caterpillars, butterflies, mites and beetles cause damage at different periods of plant growth, regardless of where they grow. To preserve the harvest, it is necessary to follow the rules of agricultural technology, take measures in a timely manner, and in case of mass destruction, be sure to use insecticidal preparations.

Eggplant pests in a greenhouse

Eggplants are plants of the Solanaceae family, just like tomatoes. Therefore, these cultures have many common “enemies” and similar methods of struggle.

The most common eggplant pests in all regions are:

2. in open ground:

Colorado beetle,
gnawing owls,
potato 28-spot ladybug.

Greenhouse whitefly on eggplants

Greenhouse whitefly is a sucking pest that most often affects young seedlings. Despite its small size, the whitefly can cause enormous harm to eggplant plantings. Moreover, both adults and its larvae are harmful.

The place where it colonizes is the underside of young leaves, where a lot of sticky sugary secretions subsequently form.
A large number of these small individuals suck out the juices of the plant, leading to their drying out, even to the complete death of the eggplant.
A constant companion of the greenhouse whitefly are sooty fungi, which quickly cover the entire leaf blade and often cause the complete death of individual parts of the plant.
The pest overwinters in greenhouse crevices and uncollected plant debris.

The whitefly is not one of the most dangerous pests of eggplant, but due to its abundance it can cause great harm.

Spider mites on eggplants

Spider mites are small pests that are difficult to notice at first glance. It has a very high reproductive capacity, as a result of which a new generation of the pest is hatched every 2-3 weeks.

Spider mites are usually identified randomly by small dots on leaves and stems, like punctures with a syringe.
During a massive “attack” on eggplant bushes, barely noticeable dots merge together, creating a marbling pattern, and a cobweb can be found at the bottom of the leaf blade.
The ideal conditions for the appearance of this mite are a dry environment and lack of air, which are often observed in our unventilated greenhouses with poor humidity levels.
Often, the damage caused by mites greatly weakens plants, which are quickly damaged by various diseases.

The gluttony of spider mites can cause enormous damage to plants, even to the point of complete death.

You should know that a tick is not an insect, but another type of pest, the Arachnida class.

For this reason, not all pest control products are effective against mites.
In such cases, special preparations are used - acaricides and insectoacaricides.
There are special anti-tick medications on the market.

Aphids on eggplants

Aphids significantly harm eggplants, despite their small size. It is found more often in greenhouses, but in the second half of summer it can also be expected in garden beds. She “takes” in numbers and fertility. There are about 30 species of aphids. Two of them harm the blue ones in the greenhouse: green peach and melon.

If measures are not taken, the dominance of aphids can lead to the complete loss of all seedlings of not only eggplant, but also other vegetable crops growing in the neighborhood

All aphid development takes place on green bushes, on all its organs with the exception of fruits. Apparently, thick eggplant peel is too much for her.
Particularly prefers young seedlings.
By sucking out the life-giving juice from young eggplant bushes or other vegetables, this little thing can cause irreparable harm to plants and lead to deformation and drying out of individual organs, and often to their complete death, significantly reducing the yield.
Affected plant organs become covered with sticky secretions, in which a sooty fungus develops, causing the bushes to partially turn black.
Plants colonized by fungal spores lag behind in growth, wither, and yield decreases.
The fruits produced on such bushes are usually underdeveloped and very bitter.
Often, aphids serve as carriers of various viral diseases.

Only the complete death of this pest will lead to calm anticipation of the harvest.

Thrips on eggplant

Thrips are the smallest insect pests of eggplants in greenhouses. Their dimensions do not exceed 1.5 mm.

You can find such a small thing on the underside of the leaves in the form of grayish-silver spots located along the central vein.

Females eat into the leaf blade and lay eggs, from which larvae hatch after 2-3 weeks.
Along with adults, the larvae suck out juices from all organs of the plant, weakening and injuring it.
Thrips causes the greatest harm by being a carrier of a viral infection.

Since thrips are very resistant to various insecticidal treatments and quickly develop immunity to them, various, regularly changing preparations and formulations should be used

Pest control in the greenhouse

To successfully combat sucking insects on eggplants in protected soil, it is necessary to use a whole range of agrotechnical, biological, chemical and other measures. It is better to change medications and various means of protection periodically so that the pest does not become addicted. Well, the best way to treat is prevention and proper care.

Agrotechnical control and prevention measures:

Control of weeds and their remains, which are overwintering sites for the pest.
Crop rotation. Do not plant eggplant seedlings after tomatoes, peppers, potatoes and other nightshades.
Thoroughly disinfect the greenhouse in the fall by burning colloidal sulfur with greenhouse doors and windows closed, treating with a 20% bleach solution, or using other recommended chemicals.
It is effective to plant aromatic plants next to seedlings to repel pests: wormwood, tansy, fennel, dill, basil, onions, mint, garlic.
Creating conditions in greenhouses that are unfavorable for the development of harmful insects and mites: ventilation, increasing the humidity level.
Before planting, treat the seedlings with infusions of ash or tobacco dust (a glass to a bucket of water).

Methods for forming an eggplant bush

There are several known methods for forming an eggplant crown, these are the so-called pruning techniques into one, two, three stems or more. This approach makes it possible to form an elegant crown, depending on the physiological characteristics of each individual variety, and also to achieve rapid ripening of the crop

At the same time, the procedure should be approached with caution; it is necessary to evaluate the condition of the plantings, since radical pruning of weak plants always leads to their death

In one stem

Pruning a bush to one stem is considered the most radical way to shape eggplants, but this is often a necessary measure.

In most cases, the following reasons lead to this:

weakening of plants due to poor rooting or unfavorable conditions

In this case, it is possible to direct all efforts to the formation of fruits, which often does not happen without pruning;

dense plantings - one stem helps prevent a lack of free space on the site, which is especially important for tall varieties;

lack of lighting - in this case, pruning helps the fruits to ripen well during the active growing season, as well as to avoid shading of neighboring plants, which is always fraught with inhibition of the growth of both

The formation of a single stem on the bush begins within two weeks after transplanting the eggplant seedlings to a permanent place. If the plant is weakened, it is permissible to carry out the first pruning with a delay of up to 1 week. Regardless of the moment of the first formation, the procedure is subsequently repeated at intervals of 2-3 weeks, until the technical ripeness of the fruit.

Forming an eggplant bush to one stem involves the following measures:

In the root zone of the stem up to 5 leaves, all side shoots and ovaries are removed.
In the zone of 6–8 leaves, cut off half of the ovaries and pinch out all the stepsons.
On about the 10th leaf, pinch off all the shoots after the first leaf with the ovary.
After 10 leaves on the stem, shoots with an ovary on two leaves are left, while no more than 3 leaves are allowed to be kept at the top.

In two stems

Formation into two stems involves the creation of an elongated trunk, at the top of which a crown with fruits will develop. As in the previous option, depending on the condition of the plants, this procedure begins 14–21 days after planting the seedlings in open soil.

Important! When pruning a bush, you must definitely pay attention to its shadow; it should not shade the leaves, shoots and future ovary, as well as neighboring plants.

This pruning is done as follows:

After the plant reaches 35 cm, the top is pinched, this activates additional buds and promotes the growth of side shoots.
After 1-2 weeks, all lateral branches on the bush are cut off, leaving only the 2 most viable ones. In this case, any side shoots developing below the 2 side shoots are also subject to removal. It is allowed to leave 2-3 lower leaves shading the near-trunk ring of soil, this will protect the substrate from excessive evaporation of moisture.
In the future, pruning is carried out every 2-3 weeks, any additional lateral shoots are subject to pruning, as well as excess leaves, shoots developing on 2 lateral stepsons. As the ovary appears, it is thinned out, and their number must be gradually increased from the bottom to the top.

Three stems (or more)

Trimming to three stems is considered the most popular. In addition to the fact that it makes it possible to form a dense crown, only in this case can you achieve increased productivity from the plant. However, it is not always useful; it is used only in the case of free planting of eggplant, as well as to fill the free space of the greenhouse; in dense plantings it will lead to oppression of the eggplant.

Such formations are carried out using the following successive steps:

After the seedlings have lengthened to 30–35 cm, pinch off the top.
After 1–3 weeks, all side shoots are removed from the bush, leaving only the 2 most viable ones.
After another 2 weeks, additional shoots begin to form. To do this, leave 1 stepson on each of the main ones, which are pinched after the 2nd leaf, without removing the ovaries. Shoots without ovaries, as well as excess foliage, are also subject to removal.
About 30 days before the expected harvest date, all growth points on the bushes are pinched, this promotes more active growth and ripening of the fruits.

The most acceptable conditions for growing eggplants in open ground and greenhouses in the Urals

The peculiarity of the crop is that for growth, flowering and ripening it requires a large amount of heat over a long period of time. But summer in the Urals is short, as local residents joke - only one month, July. Therefore, greenhouse cultivation is common practice.

Note! For the conditions of the Subpolar and Northern Urals, growing eggplants, especially in open ground, is out of the question: permafrost requires only greenhouse methods, which is not economically feasible. The crop can be successfully grown in the Kurgan, Orenburg, Chelyabinsk regions, and Bashkiria.

Eggplants in the Urals

For the normal development of blue ones, a stable temperature of 25-30°C and good lighting are needed.
For a region with a continental climate, the optimal solution is to use stationary greenhouses equipped with heating and additional lighting.

Greenhouse eggplants are not the worst option for unspoiled Urals residents, but the more “living” sun the fruits receive, the tastier they grow.

Note! There is a method for growing eggplants in the Urals in open ground: so that heat-loving plants suffer less from weather changes, they use light film covers to cover the beds.

Since the varietal characteristics of eggplants are an important component of success, the choice is made according to the following rules:

In greenhouses, it is allowed to plant varieties that respond to sudden changes in weather conditions; in unprotected beds, only resistant varieties can be planted.
The ripening period for greenhouse varieties is no more than 150 days, i.e. from early to mid-season. Only early ripening ones are suitable for open ground.
Preference is given to high-yielding varieties that are resistant to characteristic crop diseases. For open ground, choose low-growing, cold-resistant eggplants, whose fruits ripen even during cold snaps.

Selection and preparation of a landing site taking into account climatic conditions

Places for open beds for eggplants are chosen carefully. It should be well lit by the sun throughout the day. Orientation of planting rows from south to north - this way the plants will receive the maximum possible amount of sunlight.

The natural characteristics of eggplants require fertile soil. The difficult climate puts this criterion first. Blueberries grow best on sandy and loamy soils with good drainage.

Landing in the ground

Prepare beds and greenhouses in the fall:

The mechanical properties of the soil are normalized, loosening components are added to heavy sandstones, and clay or chernozem is added to excessively light sandstones.
Fertilizers are applied - organic and mineral. For each square meter, add humus (10 kg), wood ash (1 l), superphosphate and potassium sulfate, a tablespoon each.

On a note! Cultivating eggplants in high beds gives higher qualitative and quantitative yield indicators.

The best varieties for the Urals

Considering that the growing season of eggplants averages 100 days, for regions such as the Orenburg, Kurgan or Chelyabinsk regions, it is recommended to choose varieties of early or super-early ripening. If the greenhouse is heated, it makes sense to plant mid-early hybrids. Among the most popular varieties used in the Urals, vegetable growers identify:

Agate F. A universal hybrid form that can be grown both in open areas and in a greenhouse or hotbed in the Urals. The variety is characterized by high yields and resistance to major diseases. The mass of purple fruits does not exceed 250 g. Harvesting is possible 110 days after the sprouts appear.
Emerald F. Positioned as a disease-resistant, non-capricious variety, capable of producing a high-quality harvest in any climatic conditions. The fruits have high taste and commercial characteristics, are distinguished by their oval shape and green color. Their weight is 300 g. The duration of the growing season is 100-110 days.
King of the North F. It is distinguished by its ability to bear fruit at very low temperatures, but does not tolerate heat well. When cultivated in greenhouse conditions, up to 14 kg of eggplant is harvested from 1 square meter. This figure will be half as much if the crop is planted in an open area. Eating the fruit becomes possible after 3 months. The large fruits have a long shape and the usual characteristic taste. The hybrid was bred specifically for cultivation in extreme conditions.
Faith . The early ripening variety is positioned as universal, the duration of the growing season is 100-118 days. The bushes attract attention with their compact size, eggplants grow pear-shaped, their weight varies between 120-200 g. The variety produces a stable, but relatively small, harvest.
Dwarf early 921. The culture belongs to the category of early ripening, eggplants ripen on the 100th day after seed germination. The plant is compact, the weight of the fruit is no more than 120 g, the taste is quite high.
Quartet. Eggplant reaches its technical maturity already on the 107-122nd day after the sprouts appear. The height of the plant does not exceed 60 cm, the weight of shortened pear-shaped fruits is up to 100 g. The variety is able to withstand many diseases and drought.
Adamant . The new hybrid form has already gained recognition among vegetable growers due to its early ripening period (3 months) and large fruit size (250-300 g). The variety is distinguished by its friendly ripening and sufficient resistance to major diseases.
Fabina F. The ripening period of eggplants in the Urals is 3-3.5 months, in the southern regions it is reduced to 2.5 months. Planting height up to 60 cm, weight of elongated fruits within 200 g, length no more than 23 cm. Taste and product characteristics are excellent. The hybrid is characterized by a high level of resistance to fungal infections and spider mites.

Care and cultivation

Caring for growing eggplants is also carried out according to general rules for the culture, taking into account regional characteristics.

In open beds

The protective film is completely removed only in July. With the onset of the traditional August cold snap, the shelter is returned to its place. They are used only when the temperature drops critically for the variety. Watering schedule:

before the flowers open - once a week, water consumption 10 l/sq.m;
with the beginning of flowering - after 2-3 days, taking into account weather conditions.

Important! Water for irrigation should be warm, preferably heated by the sun. Eggplant bushes are not hilled, but they are regularly loosened and weeded out.

2 weeks after planting the seedlings, organic fertilizers are applied - mullein infusion or bird droppings.
After 3 weeks, the soil is enriched with potassium and phosphorus fertilizers. Phosphorus and potassium are also fed during fruit set.

Often, instead of the usual fertilizers, including mineral ones, herbal infusions or wood ash are used.

On a note! Eggplants begin to bloom when the day length decreases to at least 14 hours. A small trick allows you to speed up the process of flower formation: a black film stretched over the frame. It is removed daily at 12 o'clock during daylight hours.

In greenhouses

Greenhouse plantings require no less care.

The desired temperature is constantly maintained: the windows and doors are opened during the day, and closed at night. Water the blue ones more often than in open beds, since at elevated temperatures the soil evaporates moisture more intensely. Fertilize in the same way as the fertilizing scheme in open ground.

With more stable conditions for growing a crop in a greenhouse, a higher yield is expected from it. The formation of bushes is one of the measures that helps achieve this goal, see below for more details.

How to plant a crop correctly

Regional planting rules differ little from the general technology, but there are features that must be taken into account:

Determination of sowing dates. Sow seeds in late February. Even if the seeds sprout unevenly (which is typical for the crop), it will be ready for planting in due time.

Eggplants (seedlings): cultivation and care

Important information! When sowing ungerminated seeds, instead of water, a “blanket” of snow is used to moisten the substrate. The seedlings will be more resistant to weather changes and diseases, and will adapt more easily after transplantation.

The seeds are sown in separate small cups, then transferred to larger pots, about a liter in volume, so that while waiting for favorable weather, the root system of the seedlings develops normally.
The grown seedlings begin to harden 3 weeks before transplantation, as soon as weather conditions allow.

Remember! If the seedlings begin to wilt during hardening off, they are either cold or have too much sun. It is immediately shaded or watered with warm water. This is a natural reaction of young plants to insufficiently warm air or excess sun. Mature bushes do not respond to such factors at the beginning of flowering.

The timing of planting eggplants in a greenhouse in the Urals is determined as the first half of May for heated structures and after May 20 - without heating. Planting in open ground is carried out no earlier than the second half of June, provided that the soil has warmed up to 15°C.
When planting, seedlings are not buried.
In open beds, polyethylene film or spunbond is used to insulate seedlings, stretching the greenhouse onto light, collapsible frames immediately after planting, watering and mulching the soil. The plants can be fully opened at the end of June; before this, the film is removed if the air temperature exceeds 20-22°C for several hours.
To grow eggplants in greenhouses in the Urals, seedlings are planted in a checkerboard pattern at a distance of 40 cm for low-growing varieties, 60 cm for tall varieties.
In open ground, the distance between rows is 50-70 cm, between bushes 45-60 cm.

Eggplants in a greenhouse

Pest and disease control

The thin, tender leaves of eggplants attract a significant number of pests. As a preventative measure, it is better to use dusting with wood ash - it repels most parasites and helps prevent many diseases.

Aphids - infusions of tansy, wormwood, capsicum, soap solutions (green or for pets). To deter them, spicy celery, dill, calendula, and marigolds are planted next to the main crop.
Colorado potato beetle - pre-planting soil treatment with Actofit, spraying with infusions of hot pepper, wormwood, repellent and other pests. In the greenhouse, Fitoverm or other bioinsecticides are used; in open ground, chemicals can be used, but only as a last resort.
Spider mites - for prevention, regularly spray with infusions of onions, garlic, hot peppers, tomato or potato tops, and ammonia. It is recommended to plant onions, garlic, calendula, and marigolds in the row spaces as a green barrier.

Note! In case of mass infestation of the little blue ones by the pest, acaricides are used - “Vermitek”, “Neoron”, “Nissoran”, etc. Conventional insecticides are powerless.

Squirrel moth - adults are lured into traps or vacuumed up. To combat larvae living in the soil, insecticides are used - “Confidor”, “Fufanon”.
Pathogenic viruses, bacteria and fungi cause severe diseases, leading to the loss of 70% of the crop.

The main means of combating viruses is strict adherence to agricultural technology, especially in greenhouse conditions, soil cultivation in the fall and spring, and disinfection of seed material. As a preventive measure, the soil is treated in spring and autumn with Bordeaux mixture, copper sulfate or pink potassium permanganate.

Fitosporin, Trichodermin, and Baktofit cope well with fungal infections of eggplants. The best preventative agents include copper sulfate or Bordeaux mixture, which is used to treat the grant twice a season. “Farmayod” is effective for treating greenhouses, destroying the vast majority of pathogens.

Know! There are no means of combating diseases of bacterial or viral origin; preventive measures include adherence to agricultural practices, pest and weed control.

Advice from experienced gardeners

To grow a lot of large eggplants, beginners should take a closer look at the secrets of agricultural technology from those who know a lot about growing eggplants.

Helpful Tips:

Between the beds where eggplants grow, plant plants that repel insect pests.
Grow eggplants in warm beds. In the fall, dig a trench, fill it with waste and cover it with soil. In spring, plant seedlings on a warm nutrient substrate. This bed can be used for three years.
The culture does not tolerate transplantation well. You should not sow seedlings in large boxes, so as not to pick them. It is better to do without picking - sow the seedlings in separate glasses.
Eggplants need constantly moist soil, which means mulching is indispensable. Ordinary grass, straw, and sawdust can be used as mulch. Mulch will prevent the bed from drying out and reduces water costs.

For information on the rules for growing eggplants in open ground, watch the following video:

The best way to grow eggplants in open ground is from seedlings; this is the way to guarantee a harvest. For each region, you need to choose the right planting time and variety that can grow in certain weather conditions.

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Methods and technologies for regulating growth and fruiting

The formation of bushes is carried out in order to increase the yield. Proper shaping of the bush increases the number of ovaries and also allows you to adjust the weight of the fruit. Low-growing and dwarf varieties are allowed to grow without molding. Medium and tall plants need regulation.

They do not form bushes in unprotected beds; they only pinch the crown when the height of the bush reaches 40 cm. Then the number of ovaries is normalized: 5-6 of the largest fruits are left on each bush. New flowers are also plucked off; the prospect of getting a harvest from them is negligible, but they will take away the strength of the plant.

Advice! To ensure that eggplants ripen evenly, the leaves that shade the fruit are removed.

Methods of formation and the appropriateness of their use for eggplants in a greenhouse are determined primarily by the condition of the plant:

Weakened seedlings are formed into 1 stem when they are thickened or when there is insufficient illumination of the internal parts of the bush.
Bushes with 2 or 3 or more stems can be grown with sparse planting, when they are not crowded, lighting and air access are not limited in any way.

Summer residents who do not have the opportunity to visit the site every day prefer to grow low-growing varieties, since the formation of a bush is a process that requires constant monitoring.

Planting vegetable sprouts

Of course, heat-loving plant varieties in the Urals should only be planted in a greenhouse. If there is no such building on your site, then you can build a mini version of it. Drive pegs around the eggplant bed and stretch plastic wrap over them.

It is necessary to lay a layer of compost at the bottom of the greenhouse, which will warm the ground, which is very useful in this region. When this layer rots, heat will begin to rise to the top layer of soil.

When planting plants in beds, carefully ensure that the distance between them is at least 40 cm. Without this point, the eggplants will not develop to their full potential, but will be weak and thin.

To prevent the eggplant from dying, it must be accustomed to the open air before planting the seedlings. Plants that were grown in the shade should first be placed in a place where there is a little more light; if the leaves have not withered or acquired a yellow tint, you can place the pot in direct sunlight. If everything is fine, then you can now plant the seedlings. If the eggplants begin to wilt, remove them back into the shade and restore them with water.