Feeding tomatoes and peppers with ash in a greenhouse and open ground

Composition of ash and the role of each element in cultivation

When we talk about ash, we mean what is left after burning trees and plants, that is, organic materials. It contains a large number of elements that peppers and tomatoes need. Let's look at each element separately.

Calcium and the role of its salts

Most of the ash contains calcium and varieties of its salts. This element has a beneficial effect on the growth of plantings and is responsible for the balance of their nutrition.

No less useful are calcium salts, which in ash are represented by four main types:

• Calcium carbonate. Responsible for the balance of biochemical processes that occur in planting cells. Improves the passage of minerals into the plant. Accelerates the growth and ripening of fruits, increases productivity.
• Calcium silicate. It is able to combine with pectins, due to which the nutrient molecules stick tightly to each other and fully reach the roots and ovaries. Helps roots synthesize the maximum amount of nutrients from the soil. Improves the absorption of microelements. Improves the taste of harvested tomatoes.
• Calcium sulfate. The main element of industrial fertilizers, an invariable component of superphosphate. The concentration of this element in purchased formulations is certainly higher, and the effect is more active than that of ash. But when it gets into the soil with ash, its beneficial properties work not on the intensity, but on the duration of action. It accelerates plant growth and promotes the formation of healthy leaves and flowers.
• Calcium chloride. Tomatoes require small quantities. Plays an important role in the processes of photosynthesis and enzyme formation. Participates in the process of converting ammonium nitrate, which is found in all types of soil, into a salt of nitric acid. Provides prevention of putrefactive diseases, disinfects the soil. If there is an excess of calcium chloride, the plant may get sick or even die.

Potassium and phosphorus

Ash contains much less potassium and phosphorus than calcium. But even such a low concentration is enough to provide the plantings with the required amount of these microelements.

They take an active part in metabolic processes, ensuring the penetration and absorption of important microelements from the soil. Potassium stimulates flowering and fruiting, and phosphorus improves nutrition of plant roots. In ash, these elements are represented by two types of compounds:

• Potassium orthophosphate. Regulates water balance. Promotes the removal of ammonia from the roots and upper parts of plants, which reduces the growing season.
• Sodium orthophosphate. It is important for many capricious varieties of tomatoes as an integral element for their normal growth and development. It is the only available activator of a number of enzymes that cannot be affected by other substances.

Magnesium

The ash contains three magnesium compounds, which are very useful for normal plant growth. Magnesium is one of the main components of chlorophyll and also plays an important role in photosynthesis. With his direct participation, the required amount of energy is produced. Activates the formation of carbons, from which, in turn, starch and cellulose are formed.

With magnesium deficiency, crops wither, flowering begins very late, and fruits ripen poorly.

Feeding pepper depending on growth

Above we looked at the standard set of fertilizers for sweet bell peppers. But do not forget that the composition of the feed directly depends on the age of the seedlings. The growth process is affected by weather conditions and soil composition. Therefore, the need of bushes for microelements may differ. Some growth characteristics also depend on the specific pepper variety. In cloudy weather, it is necessary to apply fertilizers that contain potassium. In such conditions, peppers will need 20% more potassium than in warm, sunny weather.

It must be remembered that fertilizers from each group act differently on pepper seedlings. Mineral fertilizing can increase the growth rate of pepper. While organic fertilizers have a good effect directly on the fruits themselves and their quality. Thanks to organic matter, you can significantly increase the amount of harvest. To do this, use feed that includes mullein or bird droppings.

It happens that pepper grows rapidly, a large number of leaves appear on it, but there are no flowers. In this case, you should stop adding nitrogen as a feed. It would be better to use a superphosphate solution. The nutritional mixture can be prepared by combining the following components:

• 2 teaspoons of urea;
• 2 teaspoons superphosphate;
• 10 liters of water.

All ingredients are thoroughly mixed. This solution is used for watering peppers as a fertilization stimulant.

Pepper seedlings growing in greenhouse conditions require more microelements than pepper in open ground. Regular and timely feeding will help grow strong and healthy peppers. It must be remembered that during the growing season, pepper needs the following elements:

• Nitrogen. Plays an important role in the growth and formation of fruits.
• Calcium. Important for stem growth and also during fruit ripening.
• Phosphorus. Necessary for good fruiting.
• Potassium. Required for grafting bushes and fruit formation.

Types of ash and the content of basic elements in it

Depending on what organic materials the ash is obtained from, its composition may vary. We have prepared a table from which you can clearly see which plants need to be burned in order to obtain ash with the desired biochemical characteristics. It presents approximate average concentrations of the three main elements.

Under no circumstances should it contain any admixture of household waste, as this can lead to the death of the plantings.

How to get ash for fertilizer

As mentioned above, to obtain good ash, it is necessary to burn material of exclusively plant origin. Straw and dry branches left over from gardening can be used. Larger logs will also work, but they will burn longer and, accordingly, it will take more time to prepare the ash. The best materials for producing nutritious ash are sunflower stems and fern plants, and less effective ash is obtained after burning peat.

Experienced gardeners give several tips for obtaining ash to fertilize seedlings:

• To start a fire, it is best to take a large enamel barrel. It will prevent the flame from spreading throughout the area and make it easier to collect the resulting fertilizer.
• It is better to prepare for burning vegetation in advance. To do this, dry fallen leaves and branches should be collected in bags throughout the year.
• The combustion container used must be protected from moisture. In addition to the fact that the material will take longer to burn, most of the nutrients will evaporate along with the liquid.
• The resulting ash should be sifted through a sieve so that only fine particles remain. They dissolve better in water and nourish the earth more intensively.
• The remaining ash can be packed in thick plastic bags or sealed containers and stored in a dry, dark place. Only in this way can it last up to 6 months without losing its beneficial properties.

Important! The resulting ash is not always acceptable for use. Sometimes it can have a pronounced reddish tint, which appears due to excess iron formation. It is strictly not recommended to use such a product as a fertilizer. It can cause irreparable harm to plants.

How to make ash fertilizer with your own hands?

(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({});
The harvested raw materials, preferably deciduous crops, are placed in a container. It is better to take an iron and deep container. Otherwise, as it burns, the ashes will begin to fly away under gusts of wind. Next, the coals are allowed to cool, and only then collected. When the ashes have cooled completely, they are transferred to another container for storage.

The ideal option would be a wooden box with a hermetically sealed lid. This breathable material will allow the ashes to be preserved without losing their valuable qualities. Plastic bags are not suitable. They promote the formation of condensation inside. Ashes should be stored in a dry place.

Feeding tomatoes with ash and methods of using it

Feeding tomatoes with ash has a long history, but today this type of fertilizer is still one of the most popular among gardeners. Back in the 19th century, the combustion products of organic matter were studied; scientists were able to obtain the approximate composition of those microelements that are found in wood ash. It contains calcium carbonate, calcium sulfate, calcium silicate, calcium chloride, potassium and sodium orthophosphate in almost equal proportions. It contains slightly smaller quantities of magnesium silicate, magnesium chloride and magnesium carbonate. Sodium chloride closes the list. Almost all of these substances can have a beneficial effect on the composition of the soil and improve the condition of plants. By the way, ash can also be used when growing tomatoes on the balcony.

Important! Only ash from plant residues is suitable for feeding tomatoes. Do not add paper or other household waste that may end up in the fire. Harmful combustion products will eventually end up in the fruits if they do not cause the death of the plantings first.

Ash for tomatoes is an excellent feeding option. It can be used either in dry form, digging into the soil, or making a solution for spraying and watering.

Dry ash

Tomatoes love loose soil, in which air circulates easily and where moisture easily gets in. If the soil is too heavy and aeration is impaired, then adding dry ash will be an excellent solution to this problem.

It is enough to carry out this procedure only once every 2 years. The table below shows approximate proportions for different types of soil.

Add 200 g of dry powder per 1 square meter.

The procedure is carried out once every 2 years, observing the following proportions:

• On heavy soils and loams – 800 g per 1 sq./m;
• On the lungs – 200 g per 1 sq./m or 2 tbsp. l. on the root in the hole;
• On peat 500 g per 1 sq./m.
• In sandy soil, you can also apply fertilizer to the hole immediately before planting in the amount of 2 tablespoons per plant.

Such fertilizer will be a good preventative against the appearance of pathogenic bacteria and pests, and will also saturate the garden bed with essential nutrients. So this is an important point in caring for tomatoes.

Solutions and infusions of ash

You can either water the soil with the ash solution or spray the plants themselves. As a rule, this processing method is used during the active growing season.

There are several recipes for preparing ash infusion. We will tell you about the most common of them; all options are easy to prepare at home.

• 150 g of ash are dissolved in 10 liters of warm water. The substrate is infused for about 4 hours. For better dissolution, it is recommended to stir it periodically. The resulting liquid is poured into the ground under the root at the rate of 0.5 liters for each planting.
• 50 g of ash are diluted in a five-liter flask with warm water. The solution is infused for about 6 hours, after which a little liquid soap is added. It will help the fertilizer stay on the leaves. The resulting mixture is sprayed on tomato plantings.
• To obtain a more concentrated substrate, 150 g of ash is poured with boiling water and left for at least three days in a warm place, stirring occasionally. Before processing tomatoes, the liquid must be strained.

Important! It is enough to feed tomatoes with ash only twice a season. In June, fertilizers are applied during the formation of buds, the second time feeding is carried out approximately in mid-July, when the first ovaries appear on the tomatoes.

Multicomponent fertilizers with ash

Ash is definitely an excellent all-purpose fertilizer. But in combination with some other elements, the ash solution becomes even more nutritious and beneficial.

In the table below we will present you the most popular folk recipes among gardeners and their preparation step by step.

How to feed pepper seedlings

Ready-made formulations

When using the products of the agrochemical complex, it is important to remember the following rule: a lack of nutrients is better than their excess. In the latter case, plants can be harmed

Liquid forms are more suitable for seedlings, therefore, if powder or granules are purchased, they are diluted with water according to the instructions. On the packaging, manufacturers indicate whether the composition can be used on seedlings. The fact is that the dosage for peppers starting to grow is half that for an adult plant.

Popular formulations tested in practice:

• "Kemira-Lux". Recommended for seedlings and flowers. For 1 liter of water, take 1 g of the composition if the first feeding is planned. For the second time, the dosage is increased by 2–3 times;
• "Crystalon". Activates the development of the root system, stimulates plant growth. For 1 liter of water take 2 g of the substance. When choosing a color, consider: white is intended for growth without additional lighting, blue is for seedlings with lighting, red prevents peppers from stretching in cloudy weather;
• "GUMI Kuznetsova". The composition includes phosphorus, nitrogen, potassium and sodium. It is a powerful stimulant that increases resistance to stress. For 1 liter of water take 1 g of the substance;
• "Ideal". Develops the root system, increases immunity to diseases. For the first feeding, dilute 0.5 ml of the composition in 1 liter of water, for the second, the concentration is increased by 2 times.

When using phosphorus, potassium and nitrogen fertilizers for pepper seedlings, you need to take into account the stage of plant development and related factors.

Traditional methods

One way to prepare a complex fertilizer for pepper seedlings at home is to dissolve yeast or iodine in water. This treatment improves plant immunity and prevents the proliferation of fungal infections. To feed young peppers, dissolve 1-2 drops of iodine in 1 liter of water, and, if possible, 100 ml of whey.

For yeast feeding you will need a fermented solution. Pour 3 liters of water into a glass jar, add 125 g of sugar and 100 g of raw yeast. When the solution has fermented, the concentrate is diluted with water at the rate of 20 ml per 1 liter of water.

Vegetable growers with extensive practical experience claim that treatment with yeast and iodine solutions will increase the number of flowers, and with them the yield.

Organics for lovers of natural products

Those who are committed to environmentally friendly products use organic fertilizers. The effect is not as complex as that from balanced agrochemical compositions, but there are benefits. Several folk recipes will help you grow tasty and shelf-stable peppers.

1. Banana peels contain a lot of potassium, which is essential for the growth of peppers. There are several ways to use it. The first is to dry the peel, grind it and sprinkle it on the beds. The second is to infuse 2-3 peels for 3 days in a three-liter jar of water. Strain the infusion and use for watering seedlings.
2. Nettle. To prepare a healthy infusion, take chopped herbs, add water and let it brew for several days. Add 20 g of ash per liter to the resulting solution.
3. Tea brewing. You don’t have to throw away the spent tea leaves, but put them to use: pour 1 glass of tea leaves into 3 liters of water, leave for 5 days. Strain and use for watering.
4. Eggshell. Stimulates proper growth of seedlings. A 3-liter glass jar is filled 1/3 with crushed shells and filled to the top with water. After 3 days, when you smell hydrogen sulfide, you can use the solution.

When choosing any fertilizer, you need to remember that peppers are sensitive to agricultural technology. In order for the seedlings to be strong and promising, you need to find the right approach and feed the soil correctly and on time.

Application of ash at different stages of tomato growth

When planning feeding tomatoes, it is necessary to take into account what stage of growth the plant is in. The frequency, type and concentration of treatment will depend on this.

Seeds

Already at the stage of soil and seed preparation, ash can be used. Before planting, it is added to the soil, and to increase the viability of the seeds, they should be soaked in an ash solution immediately before being placed in the soil. To prepare the solution, take 1 teaspoon of ash, add 1 liter of warm water and leave for about 6 hours.

Seedling

After preparing the holes for planting future tomatoes, they can be filled with a small amount of a mixture of sand and ash. The main thing is not to overdo it. The delicate roots of young plants can get chemical burns and die if there is a high concentration of ash. Low-acid soil needs such bait most of all. If the pH is above 7, then it is not recommended to further alkalize the soil. As a rule, amateur gardeners do not have a device to accurately measure the level of acidity, so it is better to start introducing ash into the ground with the smallest portions or simply sprinkle the planted seedlings with a weak infusion of ash.

Ash during picking

When picking seedlings into separate pots, ash is added dry to the bottom of the holes, 2 tablespoons each. Before transplanting the seedling, it is mixed with soil and a little water is poured into the hole.

Fertilizing the soil before planting seedlings

Heavy soil should begin to be prepared for planting tomatoes in the fall. The earth is combined with ash and carefully dug up. If the soil is sandy and light, then it is better to postpone the work of applying fertilizers until the beginning of the thaw, when at least two weeks remain before planting. Otherwise, all useful substances will simply be washed away along with the melting snow. For 1 sq.m, 150 - 200 g of dry ash will be enough.

After planting the seedlings

Gardeners recommend root and foliar feeding of already planted tomatoes no more than twice a season - in early June and mid-July. It is advisable to add 20-40 g of laundry soap to the ash solution. It will add disinfectant properties and ensure adhesion of the finished fertilizer to the leaves and stems of tomatoes. To make the soap dissolve better, rub it on a fine grater and pour in hot water, stirring. The resulting concentrate is poured into a solution with ash.

During flowering

For the flowering period, ash fertilizer is prepared in advance, since a full infusion requires at least a week. 2-3 cups of ash are dissolved in 10 liters of water and stirred periodically. At the moment the first inflorescences appear, 0.5 liters of solution is poured under each bush once every 1-2 weeks, depending on the condition of the soil and plantings.

During fruiting

During the period of fruit development, foliar feeding of tomatoes is carried out. The leaves are sprayed with a solution of sifted ash, which is boiled in the liquid for about 20 minutes, and then filtered and cooled to a temperature of at least 22 degrees.

How to deposit

Any fertilizer should help the development of the plant and not harm it. But for this to happen, you need to introduce it correctly, following some basic rules:

• pollinate seedlings with a solution every 10 days;
• when planting, add 1 tablespoon of ash into the hole;

Throughout the growing season, ash is simply periodically scattered around the plant, but not close to the root system. Also, when watering, it is necessary to distribute the solution around the seedlings, but not at the very root, this can destroy the plant. That is, whether it is applied in dry or liquid form, it is equally beneficial for the development of peppers. Feeding pepper seedlings with microelements is a necessary procedure in caring for these vegetables and the key to future excellent harvests.

It is necessary to spray the solution in the morning or evening, during the day only in cloudy weather. This is done to prevent the leaves from getting sunburned. Soap-ash solution is not only a good product containing microelements, but also protection against pests and diseases. Therefore, once every two weeks you can treat peppers with a solution infused for 24 hours.

How to properly feed tomatoes with ash

There is no big difference in the frequency of fertilizing tomatoes planted in open ground and greenhouses. The main indicator of the need to apply fertilizer is the condition of the tomatoes themselves.

In the open ground

Gardeners do not recommend combining ash fertilizer with manure and droppings. The fact is that this type of organic matter releases nitrogen, which, in turn, absorbs the calcium present in the ash. Thus, these types of fertilizers neutralize the beneficial properties of each other. If you still plan to fertilize the soil with animal waste products, then it is better to do this in the fall, and leave the addition of plant ash in the spring.

In the greenhouse

In open ground, tomatoes are subject to additional moisture from precipitation, which improves the passage of micronutrients from the ash to the roots of the plantings. In the greenhouse, incl. made of polycarbonate, this process will have to be controlled independently. Therefore, after adding dry ash to the roots, it is necessary to further moisten the soil in order to dissolve the beneficial substances. To prevent diseases and improve soil quality, it is recommended to alternate ash with other universal fertilizers.

Common Mistakes

Sometimes gardeners complain that fertilizing does not bring the desired result. This happens mainly due to their incorrect combination. If you combine ashes with urea and fresh manure, then a loss of the nitrogen component occurs.

The combination of wood ash and lime will not bring results, since their combined action enhances each other and leads to the soil being too alkaline, which is unacceptable when growing peppers.

Ash from tomato diseases

Ash solution helps gardeners get rid of numerous tomato diseases detected in the early stages. If the plantings begin to wither, it is necessary to examine them from all sides in order to understand the true reason for what is happening. There may be several of them.

• The appearance of blackleg can be caused by a lack of sunlight. Adding ash around the bush will help raise the soil temperature to speed up the evaporation of excess moisture from the soil.
• When affected by late blight, it is useful to apply root feeding. In early June, the ground near the bushes is lightly sprinkled with ash. The second such procedure is carried out during the formation of the ovaries of future tomatoes.
• Fungal diseases. They are treated based on where the tomatoes grow. If they are planted in a greenhouse, then you need to treat not only the bush itself, but also the inner surface of the walls. If we are talking about plants in open ground, then it is enough to carry out ash treatment of the visible parts of the tomatoes.
• Spraying vegetables with ash extract helps against blossom end rot of tomatoes: 2 tbsp. per liter of water (glass per bucket).

Experienced gardeners recommend using ash obtained by burning oak or maple branches to combat fungus. Other ash is generally not very effective.

For treatment, treatment should be carried out 2 times a week until the fruits are fully ripened.

Feeding rules

To get a rich harvest of large peppers when grown indoors and outdoors, it is not enough just to have the right recipe; you need to be able to correctly use the organic potassium-phosphorus complex. There are certain rules that must be followed:

• the application of ash fertilizer without the use of mulch must be carried out with shallow loosening of the soil;
• enriching the soil with the same composition throughout the season will not be beneficial; organic matter must be alternated with mineral complexes;

• The use of wood ash is not beneficial on soils that are too dry or too wet, so it must be applied 1-2 days after heavy watering.

Peppers are nightshades and love warmth. In order not to slow down the development of vegetable crops, the solutions must be diluted with medium-temperature water if they are grown in a greenhouse. Warmer fertilizing is required for open ground. The temperature of liquid fertilizers applied to the beds should be 1-3 degrees higher.

Protecting tomatoes from pests using ash

To prevent the appearance of pests on tomatoes, an ash solution is used. It is used once every 2 weeks, pouring the solution under the root of the plantings. This treatment will help improve the protective properties of plants.

To prepare the nutritional mixture you will need:

• 1 glass of ash;
• 10 liters of water.

The ash is poured with warm water and left to infuse in an enamel container for two days. The solution must be stirred at least 2-3 times a day. The resulting mixture is filtered and poured into the sprayer.

Some gardeners prefer a different method of preparation. For this you need to take:

• 300 g of ash,
• 10 liters of water,
• 50 g of laundry or green garden soap.

First, the ash is poured with two liters of water and boiled over low heat for about 30 minutes. After the substrate has cooled, it is filtered and the soap ingredient is added to it. If you use laundry soap, we first recommend grating it on a coarse grater for better dissolution. After this, the resulting concentrate is brought to a volume of 10 liters with water.

The substrate is sprayed onto the plants at the rate of 1.5-2 liters per bush.

These recipes will help against aphids on tomatoes.

To combat caterpillars and slugs, you can sprinkle 10 g of ash around each tomato.

When should ash not be used?

Ash is a completely organic and environmentally friendly fertilizer. But you also need to be able to use it correctly so as not to harm the plants. Many gardeners make common mistakes that have a detrimental effect on the growth of tomatoes. Below we will look at the basic rules for working with ash.

• Germinating seeds should not be sprinkled with ash. It is applied only when the plant rises above the soil level and there is access to the root system. Foliage is treated with an ash solution only for therapeutic purposes if a disease is suspected.
• You should not feed tomatoes until they have 2 true leaves. During this period, plants require nitrogen for normal growth and development, and potassium and calcium contained in the ash reduce its concentration in the soil.
• Pure ash cannot be mixed with the roots; it should be mixed with soil. Otherwise, your tomatoes run the risk of chemical root burn. After adding the ash-sand mixture, the hole must be filled with at least 1 liter of water and only after that the tomato should be planted in it.
• Ash does not combine well with other types of fertilizers. It should not be mixed with manure, compost or peat. The only elements in combination with which the effectiveness of ash increases are urea, saltpeter and potassium chloride. But you need to mix such a cocktail immediately before adding it to the soil.
• Ash and nitrogen should never be applied at the same time. They neutralize each other's beneficial actions. Gardeners recommend adding nitrogen in the fall and leaving the ash for the spring. By the way, ammonia (ammonia) is a source of nitrogen. So ash is not mixed with it.
• Ash should not be mixed with fertilizers containing phosphorus. The components it contains impede the passage of phosphorus to the roots and reduce its availability for planting.
• Ash fertilizers are not recommended for use on soil that has undergone liming. This can lead to an increase in calcium content in the soil, and its excess has a detrimental effect on tomatoes.
• Ash is not used to fertilize highly alkaline soils (pH 7 and above), this can lead to difficulty in the absorption of nutrients by the plant.

Advice! If your milk has gone sour, don't throw it away. Just pour it on the plant, it's an excellent fertilizer.

Third feeding

An ash solution for feeding peppers is used when the plants have taken root. It is prepared with nettles. The latter is taken in the form of an infusion aged for three days, which is obtained by pouring the leaves in a liter of boiling water. Add 100 grams of wood ash. The resulting concentrate is diluted with a bucket of water. Apply the composition for watering the bushes. One copy takes 1 liter. The dosage must not be exceeded.

An alternative option involves feeding with infusion. A valuable nutritional composition is obtained when a third of the bucket is filled with ashes, poured with hot water, and left for at least two days. The infusion is filtered. Apply 1 liter of solution to each bush. This composition can be used for foliar feeding.

Clean sifted or hand-crushed concentrate can be used to sprinkle plantings between rows. At a distance of at least 10 centimeters from the bushes, grooves are made, where dry fertilizer is poured and poured on top. Often, instead of a concentrate, a composition is used, supplemented with purified peat and sand, which take half as much as ash.

Feeding peppers with ash: pros and cons

The main advantage of feeding with ash is that it contains a huge amount of useful micro- and macroelements. They have a beneficial effect on the growth of peppers:

1. Calcium, like all types of its compounds, normalizes metabolic processes at the cellular level and improves the absorption of nutrients. Helps perennials survive the winter by increasing their frost resistance. Thanks to calcium, annual plants better tolerate unexpected night frosts after planting.
2. Orthophosphate plays a leading role in maintaining water balance in plant cells. If its concentration is too low, ammonia will begin to accumulate in the tissues, which disrupts the growth process and reduces the yield of peppers.
3. Peppers need magnesium at the bud formation stage. It activates their development and helps in the flowering process.
4. Sodium compounds are vital for the normal development of bell peppers. They stimulate the growth of plantings and activate the process of formation of ovaries and fruits.
5. Phosphorus is important for the root system of peppers. Thanks to its presence in the soil, the passage of all useful microelements improves, making the roots nourished and strong.

Thus, we can say that ash is the best fertilizer option for peppers, since it contains all the elements loved by this crop.

But this does not mean that fertilizer should be applied uncontrollably, guided by the postulate “the more, the better.” An excessive concentration of ash in the soil can lead to alkalization of the soil, and this will have a detrimental effect on plantings, even though peppers love slightly acidic soil.

Fertilizers must be applied consistently; this is done only a few times throughout the entire season. You can only use ash left over from burning organic matter. There should not be any household waste in it, not even paper. And it’s still not worth combining ash with other fertilizers; it is already a self-sufficient fertilizer. Ash and nitrogen generally have zero compatibility; the interval between their application to the soil should be at least 1 month.

Ash fertilizer

It is a phosphorus-potassium mineral complex of organic origin. In various proportions it contains about thirty microelements necessary for the full development and fruiting of vegetable crops. The absence of chlorine makes it an ideal choice for enriching soil for plants that react negatively to this element.

The fertilizer is devoid of nitrogen, a substance necessary for the active growth of peppers and other vegetable crops. It must be added separately to compensate for this deficiency. The main thing is to remember that organics do not combine well with other complexes, and are most often used separately. Nitrogen is added later.

Fireproof residue is sold packaged in bags, but can be prepared by hand. The main thing is to choose the right raw materials. Not all ashes are created equal. There are combustion products that cannot be used for vegetable and garden crops. And if you decide to use a homemade product rather than a store-bought one, you need to know the basic nuances of proper preparation.

Adding ash at different stages of pepper development

Before planting peppers, you can mix ash with sand and add the mixture to the prepared holes. Young seedlings can be carefully watered with ash infusion. It is better not to pour out too much volume, but to divide it in half for double watering.

If you do not plan to add nitrogenous fertilizers to the soil, then in spring and autumn you can dig up the soil and add ash to it. If the soil is light and sandy, then it is not worth fertilizing it in the fall.

If the weather is rainy and the soil is oversaturated with moisture, then it is not worth treating the plantings with ash solutions. Excess moisture at not too high temperatures can lead to the development of fungal diseases and rot. In this case, it is better to add dry ash to the beds with peppers. And vice versa. If it's too hot outside, moisture evaporates from the soil very quickly. From dry ash, nutrients will not be able to penetrate to the roots of plants. Therefore, it is necessary to treat peppers with an ash solution.

It is useful to add ash to the soil during the loosening period at the rate of 1 cup of ash per square meter of planting, if you have not added any fertilizers before.

The rules that we will discuss further work great on sweet (bell) peppers.

Preparatory stage of feeding peppers with ash

When planting peppers, you can use ash already at the initial stage of soil preparation. If your soil is not specialized purchased soil, but ordinary soil from the garden, then it won’t hurt to add a glass of ash to 10 liters of soil. This amount will be quite enough to supply the seeds with nutrients. If this stage is implemented, then the very first stage of feeding the seedlings can be skipped.

The first stage of seedling processing

You can begin treating seedlings with an ash solution immediately after the appearance of two full-fledged leaves. If you use dry ash, the soil must be watered after applying it, otherwise the nutrients will not reach the root. It is best to use an ash solution for feeding at the rate of 1 tbsp per bush.

The second stage of seedling processing

The second ash treatment is carried out no earlier than 2 weeks after the first. You need to use the same concentration of ash solution, but water it twice. If you added ash to the ground before planting peppers, then this fertilizer will be the first and only fertilizer after the plants appear.

Transfer of seedlings

After the time has come to transfer the pepper seedlings into the ground, you can also fertilize the prepared holes with ash. Ash is mixed with soil in the amount of 1 tbsp. spoons per bush. Pure ash should not be used; it will burn the roots. This fertilizer will help the peppers adapt faster and nourish the roots with useful substances.

The first feeding of pepper with ash on the ground

2 weeks after planting the peppers in the ground, you can feed them with ash again. Plants must be well rooted. If you plan to fertilize the soil with any other means, then it is better not to combine ash with it; it is not good in all combinations. The ashes can either be added to the ground during the process of loosening the beds, or the solution can be poured over the roots of the plantings.

General recommendations

The use of this natural fertilizer requires compliance with certain nuances:

• The dry combustion product can get on the mucous membrane of the eye, mouth, and nose. To avoid adverse consequences, use personal protective equipment.

• Collecting ashes from fires can lead to burns and damage to garden equipment. It is better to carry out work with gloves, and burn raw materials in unnecessary metal containers.
• You cannot mix fireproof residue with fresh manure, as well as urea, but alkalization of compost, instead of lime, is better done with this fertilizer.

After enriching the soil with the combustion product of plants or trees, nitrogen-containing products are applied every other month. On alkaline soil, ash will not be beneficial, but, on the contrary, will harm the plantings. They will not be able to receive nutrients and will begin to die.