Spider mites on eggplants: how to get rid of the pest once and for all


Signs of spider mites on eggplants

Visible signs of spider mite damage to eggplants can be noticed when the pest has already thoroughly settled on the bush. Due to its tiny size, this arthropod is difficult to identify immediately. The back sides of the leaves are the first to suffer, then the pest moves to the stems and young shoots.

The presence of a mite is determined by the appearance of the eggplant:

  • Tiny light or colorless dots appear on the surface of the leaves; as they are damaged, they grow together into a faded marble pattern;
  • Brown spots appear on the leaf blades, which dry out over time and turn into small holes;
  • on the underside of the leaves you can see a thin cobweb, which, with severe damage, envelops the bush almost entirely;
  • gradually the leaves lose turgor;
  • from the affected leaves the mite moves to the fruits, and lightened specks also appear on them;
  • eggplants lose their juiciness and elasticity.

In just two weeks, spider mites can completely destroy a plant. At first, the growth of the eggplant slows down, it looks depressed and painful, at the last stage the rhizome dries out, and the bush cannot be saved.

Advice from experienced summer residents

Gardeners with extensive experience recommend keeping the garden clean and tidy and being attentive to your plantings. In a clean and well-kept garden, plants rarely get sick and have strong immunity.

Some tips to help deal with ticks:

  1. It is better to pluck damaged parts of seedlings without sparing them.
  2. Don't rush into using strong chemicals. It is better to resort to their help only in case of severe damage.
  3. It is useful to spray the seedlings with a solution of ammonia (2 tsp per 1 liter of water).
  4. Cobwebs must be removed immediately.
  5. Increase the humidity greatly (at 90-95% the eggs die).

Why are spider mites dangerous?

Spider mites are a very insidious and difficult to remove pest. The individual reaches the mature stage in just a week, after which it begins to produce its own kind. The colony grows exponentially, quickly taking over new plants. During a season, an average of eight generations of spider mites are hatched in a greenhouse or garden bed. Considering that each lives for 7-30 days, it is easy to guess that without appropriate control measures the plantings will soon come to an end.

Mites pierce leaf tissue and feed on plant sap. The plant quickly becomes deprived of water and essential nutrients. Photos of spider mites on eggplants were taken with high magnification; in reality, an adult individual rarely exceeds 0.4 mm in length.

In addition to the fact that the spider mite itself causes enormous damage to eggplant plantings, it is a carrier of many fungal and viral diseases, in particular:

  • gray rot;
  • late blight;
  • anthracnose.

Eggplants weakened by mites no longer have sufficient immunity and in most cases are affected by infections.

The whitish viscous web covering the leaves and stems of eggplant does not transmit light well and slows down the process of photosynthesis. There is not enough organic matter and the plant stops growing.

We must pay tribute to the survivability of the spider mite. During cold weather, these representatives of arachnids burrow into the soil and fallen leaves, climb into the cracks and frames of the greenhouse. Larvae and adult females are able to survive at temperatures down to -30°C. With the arrival of warmth, they crawl out of their shelters and attack the planted eggplant seedlings, which are especially vulnerable to pests and diseases.

Where does it come from?

When trying to get rid of any pest, be it an insect or a disease, it is important to understand the mechanisms of its development, preferred conditions, biological cycle, weaknesses and strengths

Spider mites spread by air, on human clothing, garden tools, animal fur, and under their own power. It is quite difficult to prevent its appearance in a greenhouse, but it is quite possible to create unfavorable conditions for life and reproduction. It is known for certain that ticks do not like excessive shade; when daylight hours shorten, they hibernate. But at the same time, they easily hide in last year’s tops, tree bark, and upper layers of soil.

When favorable conditions occur - abundant lighting, low humidity and consistently high air temperatures - female spider mites are located on the above-ground part of the plant, beginning to weave it with a thin web. They are usually based on the bottom of the leaf. Spider mites begin to reproduce in dry and hot weather, not disdaining to create colonies on weeds.

The rate of development of young individuals is very dependent on air temperature: at 15-20°C - no more than two weeks; at 30°C - ripen in three days. At the same time, the lifespan of each individual is a minimum of 7 days and a maximum of 30. In one season, 8 generations of spider mites can change.

How to treat eggplants against spider mites

You can get rid of spider mites on eggplants using pesticides, biological and folk remedies. Each method has its pros and cons.

Chemical remedies for spider mites on eggplants

Eggplants, like other crops, are treated against spider mites with acaricide solutions. This is a group of chemicals that destroy specifically herbivorous mites.

Comment! The word "acaricide" comes from the Greek words "acari" - "mite" and "caedo" - "to kill".

The table below describes the most popular and effective preparations, appreciated by gardeners.

Name Active substance Peculiarities
"Aktellik" Pirimiphos-methyl Universal organophosphorus insectoacaricide for contact and intestinal action. When a spider mite enters the body, it disrupts the functioning of its vital organs. If used systematically, it can cause addiction in the pest.
"Envidor" Spirodiclofen New generation contact insectoacaricide. The drug does not cause cross-resistance, is effective for populations resistant to other acaricides, and kills ticks at any stage of development. Has high adhesion
"Sunmite" Pyridabene A highly effective Japanese drug that acts at all stages of spider mite development. The cessation of all types of pest activity can be observed within 15 minutes. Ticks fall into a coma and can no longer harm eggplant plantings
"Neoron" Bromopropylate (isopropyl-4,4′-dibromobenzilate) Contact acaricide, effective at all mobile stages of spider mite development. Does not lose properties at low and high temperatures. Safe for bees and other beneficial insects
"Karbofos" Malathion Organophosphorus preparation of contact action. It affects the tick only when it comes into contact with the body of an arthropod. With regular use, spider mites develop immunity.

Warning! When working with pesticides, it is imperative to use personal protective equipment.

Biological remedies for spider mites on eggplants

Biological products for combating spider mites on eggplants have the same effectiveness as pesticides, however, they are less aggressive to the environment and are not dangerous to humans and animals.

The basis of many bioacaricides are beneficial living microorganisms:

  • bacteria;
  • mushrooms;
  • viruses.

Another component of the bioacaricide is plant extracts, which act as a fertilizer and fungicide. Using biological products on eggplants, you can immediately solve three problems:

  • get rid of the hated spider mite;
  • feed the plants;
  • carry out prevention of fungal diseases.
Name Active ingredient or live culture Peculiarities
"Fitoverm" Aversectin C A powerful product that shows results within five hours after spraying. Protection lasts for 20 days. Three days after the last treatment, eggplants are edible. Thanks to the presence of an adjuvant in protected soil, consumption can be significantly reduced
"Vermitek" Abamectin Bioinsectoacaricide of contact-intestinal action. Does not have phytotoxicity. Has a long protection period - up to one month
"Akarin" Avertin N Biological product with enteric contact action. It has a high rate of impact on pests. Already 8-16 hours after treatment, the tick stops feeding and loses motor activity
"Apollo" Clofentesine It has an ovicidal effect and is effective at all stages. Toxic effects continue for 30 days. Not dangerous for predatory mites and beneficial insects
"Bitoxibacillin" Spores of Bacillus thuringiensis var. thuringiensis Not a phytotoxic biological preparation. Can be used at any stage of plant development. The fruits are allowed to be eaten five days after processing

An unusual biological method for controlling spider mites is the breeding of predatory mites (Phytoseiulus persimilis, Amblyseius californicus). They are sold in many garden centers. The gardener can only release them onto the eggplant foliage. During the day, one hunter mite destroys 4-6 adult spider mites and about 10 eggs. When there is no suitable food left, the acariphages die.

Folk remedies for spider mites on eggplants

The use of folk remedies is advisable if chemicals and biological products cannot be used or are not at hand. Such methods are effective for minor tick infestations, as well as for complex pest control. Their action is slow and more gentle; they are not dangerous for humans and pets.

Garlic

Crushed garlic cloves (3-4 pieces) are infused in 1 liter of water for two days. Before processing, the infusion is diluted with water 1:1. In calm, dry weather, spray the tops and soil surface.

Onion peel

100 g of onion peel is poured into 5 liters of water, covered with gauze and left in a cool place for five days. Eggplant plantings are sprayed after watering, after shaking the onion infusion.

Advice! For better adhesion to the leaves, you can add a little laundry soap to the infusion.

Mustard

To obtain a mustard infusion against spider mites, 60 g of powder is diluted in 1 liter of water. In three days it will be ready for use.

alder leaves

Dry or fresh alder leaves (200 g) are steamed with boiling water (2 l) and simmered over low heat for half an hour. Then the broth is cooled and allowed to brew for 12 hours, after which it is filtered and sprinkled on the eggplants.

Dandelion

One of the fastest ways to prepare an infusion against mites on eggplants is to use ordinary dandelion. The leaves and rhizomes are crushed, poured with boiling water and left for three hours. For 1 liter of water you need 100 g of grass. The strained, cooled infusion is sprayed onto eggplant bushes without diluting it with water.

Tobacco dust and ash

Tobacco dust is mixed with wood ash in equal parts. The dry mixture is sprinkled on the bushes twice a summer. 100 g of powder is consumed per 1 m².

Green soap

Green soap contains potassium salt, fatty acids and vegetable oils. 400 ml of the drug is diluted per 10 liters of water. To wash the leaves, you also use laundry soap diluted in water (20 g per 1 liter). Many gardeners advise spraying eggplant plantings with a solution of sulfur-tar soap (100 g per 10 l).

Ammonia

To prepare the solution 1 tbsp. l. ammonia is stirred in 10 liters of water. The plants are sprayed, trying to get it not only on the top, but also on the back side of the leaves.

Important! All treatments, regardless of the method of control, must be carried out after mechanically washing off the cobwebs and mites using a cotton swab, and completely drying the surface of the leaves.

Agrotechnical measures to combat spider mites on eggplants

Spider mites are active and multiply rapidly under certain environmental conditions. The most favorable conditions for it are low humidity (less than 55%) and high temperature.

An important agrotechnical measure in the fight against spider mites is digging up the soil near the bushes to a depth of 5-8 cm. Row spacing is plowed to a depth of 10-15 cm.

To maintain the required soil moisture, you need to adjust the watering regime for eggplants. Young plants are watered 1 liter per bush twice a week, adults - once a week, spending 2-3 liters. When the eggplants are at the stage of ovary maturation and are actively bearing fruit, watering is carried out 2-3 times a week.

After the moisture has been well absorbed, the soil is loosened, removing weeds. Mulch from compost or grass is poured under the bushes; the layer height should be at least 8 cm. Gradually overheating, it will create a moist and warm environment in which ticks will be uncomfortable.

Description and life cycle of the pest

The spider mite is a representative of arachnids with a convex upper body and four pairs of legs. It is difficult to see with the naked eye what the pest looks like, since its average size is 0.5 mm.

Ticks gather in colonies, each of which contains hundreds of individuals. The color of pests changes under the influence of external factors. They are typically grey-green in early summer and orange-red from late summer to early spring. In adults, there are two red eyespots near the head, and numerous bristles cover the body.

The life cycle of a spider mite consists of several stages: egg, larva, nymph and adult. Completing the entire cycle takes from 8-20 or more days.

The most rapid development of ticks occurs at high temperatures (more than +28°C). Another favorable factor for accelerated reproduction of the pest is low humidity (no more than 55%). Adults move from plant to plant using webs.

The fertilized female spider mite spends the winter on plant debris and under the peeling bark of trees. In the spring, when the temperature rises to 12°C, it moves to the surface and settles on the underside of leaves (the first generation reproduces on weeds, the second and subsequent ones move to cultivated plants).

Having weaved a thick web, female mites lay greenish-transparent eggs, placing them one at a time in the web, which then become pearl-colored. The duration of this stage of development is directly related to air temperature.

The development of the larval stage occurs in the interval of 8-20 days. The body is hemispherical, length does not exceed 0.14 mm, three pairs of legs.

The nymph is almost similar to the adult, but smaller in size; at this stage there are already four pairs of legs.

The pest at all stages of development, with the exception of wintering females, causes harm to the plant. By piercing the epidermis from the underside of the leaf, it sucks out the leaf juice with chlorophyll grains from eggplants, which gradually lose their vitality.

Preventive actions

Prevention of spider mites in closed and open ground is somewhat different. For greenhouses, the following rules must be observed:

  1. The greenhouse should be regularly ventilated and the eggplants should be sprayed with warm water.
  2. Before planting and after harvesting, the soil in the greenhouse must be disinfected.
  3. Many experienced gardeners recommend annually changing the top layer of soil in the greenhouse - this is where spider mites like to spend the winter.
  4. To destroy pests in the fall, place a smoke bomb in the greenhouse and close all doors and vents.
  5. You can go over the frame of the structure with a blowtorch, but be very careful so as not to burn or melt anything.

In open ground conditions it is important:

  1. Maintain crop rotation.
  2. In autumn and spring, dig up the soil at least 20 cm, adding organic fertilizers and copper sulfate.
  3. Carry out preventive treatments with onion, garlic or soap solution four times a season.

How to fight in a greenhouse and open ground

It is a little easier to overcome spider mites in a greenhouse. It is easy to control humidity and air temperature here. Sometimes even simple preventive measures and folk methods are enough. But you need to be careful with chemicals in the greenhouse. Strongly toxic substances should absolutely not be used. Colloidal sulfur is excellent for greenhouses.

In open ground, it is possible to control climatic conditions only partially: cover the plantings from rain or strong winds, or protect them from animals.

At the same time, it is permissible to use any drugs on the street. But it is better to give preference to low-toxic ones, because poisons also affect the plant.

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