How to get rid of aphids on raspberries: what is the best treatment and how to get rid of them?

Symptoms of aphids on raspberries

A visual inspection will help determine the danger; signs of damage are visible to the naked eye.
The insect settles on inflorescences, under leaves, on the tops. For early detection, the bush is checked at the stage of bud break. The second inspection is carried out during flowering. The affected crop differs from the healthy one by yellowed, curled leaves. The buds stop developing and deformed flowers bloom from them.

Symptoms:

• drying and falling of inflorescences;
• deformation, shedding of leaves;
• drying out, bending of branches, stems;
• lack of opening of formed buds and fruits;
• mature leaves are covered with a sticky coating - honeydew;
• with serious lesions, sooty fungus develops on raspberries;
• white waste appears on the back of the foliage - old skin shed by insects.

Important! A method for early detection of raspberry aphids is the installation of white glue traps. They are tied in early spring, when the leaves begin to bloom. The method works throughout the entire growing season; all you need to do is shake the bush.

Aphids on raspberries

Signs of parasitism

To identify problems, it is worth carefully examining the culture. In order to identify parasites in a timely manner, it is necessary to examine the crop for the first time at the stage of bud break. In this case, it is recommended to pay special attention to the tops of flowers and shoots.

White traps will also help identify the problem. They are tied in the spring, when the leaves bloom. To identify insects, just gently shake the raspberry bush. Quite often, the appearance of aphids is indicated by a large number of ants.

The main symptoms of plant damage include the following:

• leaves turn yellow, curl and become deformed;
• flowers do not bloom or fall off;
• shoots are deformed and shortened;
• the above-ground parts of the plant are covered with a sugary coating.

Are ants on bushes a sign of pests?

1. The life activity of aphids is accompanied by the production of excrement that attracts ants.
2. Insects form a mutually beneficial symbiosis. Feeding on sweet secretions, the ants protect the aphids and transfer them to young, succulent leaves and shoots.
3. The second method of spreading throughout the raspberry tree is through winged females flying from plant to plant.
4. If crawling ants appear near the bush, be sure to check for infestation.
5. Spray the areas where they accumulate with a solution of muracide or a similar product. Frequency: 2 times per summer.

Pest-resistant varieties

Among the types of raspberries that have good immunity against aphids are:

1. "Maroseyka". The shoots of the plant are covered with a waxy coating. It reliably protects the raspberry tree from pests and various fungal infections.
2. "The Beauty of Russia". Brought out by selection of “Maroseyka” and “Mirage”. The culture has increased resistance to aphids and the development of fungal diseases.
3. "Tarusa" or standard raspberry. Not susceptible to invasion by parasitic insects.
4. "Purple Haze". Insensitive to aphids. It has high productivity.
5. "Aborigine." Has large, juicy berries. Resistant to spider mites and green aphids. It has good immunity to leaf spot, necrosis, and chlorosis.

The mid-late raspberry “Stolichnaya” is characterized by increased resistance to aphid invasion. Has immunity to fungal infections and pests.

Reviews

I'm already tired of fighting aphids on raspberries. I don’t know what kind of attack this is, before I didn’t have any aphids, but now they are on cucumbers, eggplants, peppers and all fruit trees. I tried everything from folk remedies. To be honest, nothing really helped me. It seems that after treatment with garlic and ash there were fewer insects, but they were still there. I was afraid to use chemistry, but since nothing was helping, I decided to do it. The store advised me to buy contact and intestinal type drugs. Systemic drugs enter the plant tissue and, as a result, spread throughout the entire bush, including the berries. But contact and intestinal ones only affect the pest and are not absorbed by the plant. Having learned these subtleties, I somehow felt more comfortable using “chemistry”

Gardeners are advised to purchase raspberry seedlings exclusively from specialized nurseries, where phytosanitary inspections are regularly carried out and harmful insects are monitored. It is almost impossible to bring aphids along with seedlings from such nurseries to your plot.

Damage to bushes

Settling on raspberries, aphids drink the juices of this plant, causing its depletion, drying of inflorescences, a decrease in the volume of green mass, curling, yellowing and falling of leaves. Over the summer, several generations of this insect manage to appear. All of them can live on the same plant, feeding on its juices and causing its gradual drying out and death.

The danger of this insect is also that it is extremely prolific. In just one season, the number of one colony increases several thousand times. Over the summer, insects are able to completely cling to a raspberry bush and drink all the juices from it. In addition, the winged relatives of aphids can move to other berry bushes and lead to their death. In addition to causing harm, aphids are a spreader of viral diseases that are dangerous to raspberries.

What causes white aphids?

The main source of infection is low-quality planting material taken from industrial plantations. The pest is often brought in from neighboring areas.

The third reason for the appearance is a violation of agricultural technology:

• planting raspberries in the shadow zone;
• dense planting pattern;
• lack of processing, weeding.

The insect attacks bushes growing in open ground and is dangerous for varieties cultivated in closed ground conditions. Aphids are carried by the wind, penetrating into greenhouses through ventilation openings and windows.

How to breed on different crops?

When black currants are affected by aphids, the leaves begin to curl, become deformed, and dry out. On white and red currants, the lesion manifests itself differently: swollen red spots form on the leaves. The affected areas are removed and burned. A folk remedy for eliminating aphids on currants is spraying with an infusion of tobacco and wood ash. To prepare the solution, take 400 g of tobacco and the same amount of ash. Combine with 10 liters of water. Let it brew, then spray.

On apple, cherry, and plum trees, leaf deformation occurs when aphids are infested. They lose their elasticity. You can often notice clusters of pests on the leaves. A common cause of aphids is the presence of weeds nearby. The best assistant in eliminating the pest will be a ladybug. It is also worth planting fennel, dill, coriander, and parsnips between the trees. This will be an excellent prevention of aphids.

On cucumbers in a greenhouse and in open beds, you can use the same aphid remedy: soap and onion solution. When viburnum is infected by aphids, the leaves of the diseased plant immediately begin to curl. A lot of black dots and ants appear on them.

An infusion of three powerful components, even individually (onion, ash and garlic), can help in the fight against aphids on cabbage. The specific smell will definitely repel the pest. For 10 liters you will need 100 g of onion, 50 g of chopped garlic, and 150 g of wood ash. Place the mixture on the stove and wait for it to boil. Leave to infuse for a day. Strain and add a tablespoon of liquid soap. The resulting solution is sprayed onto cabbage leaves.

Aphids often attack roses: stems, leaves, buds. It is better to remove leaves from bushes immediately. Insects can be killed, for example, using a water shower. Among the natural ways to combat insects, it is worth highlighting the following effective methods:

• if the damage is minor, you can collect the pests with your hands and rinse the flowers with water, repeating the procedure several times;
• you can prepare a soap solution by mixing a tablespoon of unscented soap with a liter of water (spray for several days in a row);
• Nettle decoction is used for several days, treating affected areas.

These methods will be effective on both outdoor and indoor flowers.

When aphids are localized on dense grape leaves, water with plain water from a hose. You can use strong pressure to wash away all the insects to the ground.

Prevention measures

To avoid the appearance of the pest on raspberry plantings, it is necessary to follow the rules of agricultural technology:

1. Plant bushes at the distance recommended for a particular variety.
2. Take care of the health of the berry bush.
3. Weed the area in a timely manner to prevent the migration of aphids from the weed to the raspberry bushes.
4. Plant repellents (chamomile, wormwood, garlic) around the raspberry tree.
5. Regularly carry out sanitary pruning of old and damaged shoots.
6. Clear the area of ​​fallen leaves under which pests hibernate.
7. Treat anthills with insecticides to destroy them.

The gardener has enough helpers in the fight against aphids. If you make birdhouses and feeders on the site, then grateful birds will relieve some of the problems with pests of garden crops. Aphids also have natural enemies. These are ladybugs, lacewings and hoverflies.

How to protect raspberries and prevent aphid invasion: methods and expert advice

Experienced summer residents try to prevent aphid infestations, and to do this they use simple methods of protection. For example, branches are pruned annually not only on raspberries, but also on other berry bushes. They remove fallen leaves, destroy weeds, and keep the garden clean. Crops are planted near the raspberry field that repel aphids with their smell: onions, garlic, tomatoes, potatoes.

To destroy aphids, they attract beneficial insects: ladybugs, hoverflies, and lacewings. Feeders are installed on the bushes for sparrows, robins, titmice and other birds that love to eat aphids.

Fungicide treatment

Chemicals quickly destroy all types of aphids, regardless of their stage of development. The process requires compliance with safety precautions and sanitary standards.

Spark

There are several drugs on sale:

• Iskra Bio – against aphids, mites. It is characterized by increased safety, is used before berry picking, and is effective in hot weather. Solution: 60 ml per 10 liters of water. Consumption: 1.5 l per bush;
• Spark Double effect is a universal tablet product. Non-toxic, fast-acting, contains potassium supplement. A working solution of 1.5 liters is sprayed for every 10 sq.m. raspberries;
• Golden spark is highly effective, provides long-lasting protection, and is not washed off by rain or watering. Solution: 5 ml of emulsion or 40 g of powder per bucket of water. Consumption: up to 10 liters per hundred square meters, depending on the number of aphids. Not for use on fruit;
• Iskra M – successfully works against aphids, sucking and gnawing insects. Compatible with fertilizers and many pesticides. Dissolves in water in a ratio of 10 ml per 10 l. Spraying is carried out in 2 stages - before flowering and after picking berries. Does not work on mature fruits. Consumption – 2 liters per 10 bushes.

Confidor

A new generation systemic drug will provide protection against aphids and other pests for a 30-day period. One or two sprayings are required per season. The asset of the product is safety and inability to accumulate in fruits. But, the solution is not sprayed during the ripening period of the berries and during the early harvest (no later than 30 days). Available in the form of a concentrated emulsion, wettable powder.

• Confidor “Extra” and “Maxi” work against aphids;
• concentration – 70 g of powder or 1 ml of emulsion per 10 l;
• with a large concentration of pests, the consumption doubles;
• For a bush up to 1 m, 1.5 liters are consumed, above 1 m - 3 liters.

Important! When spraying, wear a plastic raincoat from head to toe, with a hood with an elastic band around the face, a respirator, rubber boots, and gloves. Process raspberries in calm weather.

Harvest ripening

The berries on raspberry bushes do not ripen immediately, and the question of how to deal with aphids during fruiting can really be perplexing. Even traditional means are not all suitable for controlling aphids at this time. Some of them are poisonous (celandine), some will give a nasty taste to the freshest berries.

In summer, garlic infusion is not suitable for processing raspberry bushes. Raspberry with garlic flavor - fresh and original, but not for everyone.

Remedies for aphids on raspberries should combine harmlessness to humans and a neutral taste in relation to the berries. Fast-evaporating substances are excellent:

Processing raspberries during fruiting period

Iodine and soda for aphids on raspberries are a fairly effective means of getting rid of insects. These same substances prevent the development of fungal diseases that aphids often infect plants with. Some gardeners use iodine and soda without soap, while others prefer to add tar and laundry soap to make the product last longer.

For a bucket of water you will need 2 tbsp. spoons of soda ash, 1 teaspoon of iodine and 200 g of soap. The plants are sprayed with this consistency at intervals of a week.

Traditional methods

Today there are many methods for controlling aphids on raspberry bushes. The main advantage of home remedies is their complete safety.

Soap solution

To prepare the product, you need to take 10 liters of water and 200 g of laundry soap, pre-crushed. The solution should be used in the evening during dry and windless weather. But how tar soap is used against aphids is described in great detail in this article.

Decoction of tomato or potato tops

To obtain it, you need to use 1 kg of tops and 10 liters of water. Infuse the solution for 4 hours, simmer on the stove for 15 minutes, and then infuse for another 3 hours. But when using potato tops, you should not boil them, but simply pour warm water over them. But how to use a decoction of celandine against aphids is described in great detail in this article.

Tobacco infusion

To prepare this solution, you need to take 400 g of tobacco, 10 liters of water. Leave for 2 days. Apply the solution after it has been filtered.

Chamomile decoction

Take 1 kg of raw materials, pour 10 liters of water. The solution can be used only after 12 hours. Just before that, filter it and combine it with water 1:3.

Infusion of celandine

A decoction of celandine is excellent for combating red-headed aphids. To do this, take 3-4 kg of celandine, add 10 liters of water. Wait a day for the product to infuse. Before using it, the solution must be filtered.

Ash solution

This remedy is one of the most effective in combating aphids on raspberries. In addition, the ash is completely safe and does not affect the quality of the fruit. To obtain the composition you need to take 500 g of ash, 3 liters of water. But what kind of ash is better for fertilizer, the information at the link will help you understand.

After dissolving the ash in the water, add 20 g of liquid soap to the solution. Wait a day, and then filter the broth and treat the bushes with a spray bottle.

Ammonia

Take 40 ml of ammonia, add 10 liters of water and a little washing powder. Thanks to the last component, the solution will stick to the leaves. Use the solution to treat the leaves of the bush. Carry out repeated actions after 14 days. By clicking on the link you can learn more about ammonia, which is used against ants in the garden.

Onion broth

Take 100 g of finely chopped onion, add 10 liters of hot water. Infuse the composition for 4-5 days. Then filter it and use it to process raspberries no more than 3 times. Spray every 5 days.

You can use the prepared solution to combat the following pests:

Hot pepper infusion

Take a pod of hot pepper and cut it into 2 parts. Pour 1 liter of water and set on fire. Boil in an enamel bowl. Store the prepared solution in a dark place. Before use, you need to take 250 ml of concentrate, 40 g of liquid soap and 10 liters of water. Treatment must be carried out 2-3 times a month.

Fighting aphids on raspberries is not difficult if you detect them in time and start processing. You can use both safe home remedies and chemicals for this. All of them quickly and effectively cope with the problem that has arisen, but only if they are used correctly.

What to process

Chemicals and folk remedies will help get rid of aphids. The latter are less effective, but are loved by gardeners for their natural composition and availability.

Fungicides

Using chemicals, you can rid raspberries of annoying aphids in a short time. However, it is important to adhere to the dosage, otherwise harmful substances may settle in the plants. The latter factor will repel bees and lead to a decrease in yield. The treatment is carried out in the morning, immediately after the dew has disappeared. Do not spray in sunny, windy or rainy weather.

• Karbofos. It is permissible to use this drug at any phase of the growing season. But it is better to process raspberries in spring and autumn. The drug is diluted in water (70 ml per bucket) and the plants are thoroughly sprayed;
• Kilzar. Topical only before flowering. Dosage – 45 ml. on a bucket of water;
• Nitrafen. It has the power to kill even the eggs of wintering aphids. Spring treatment is carried out immediately after the snow melts, autumn – after harvesting. A bucket of water will require 0.3 liters. drug;
• Antitlin. A powerful substance that defeats larvae and adult insects. Treatment is carried out in the spring before flowering, as well as in early autumn - after harvesting. To prepare the solution, take 0.45 l. the drug in a bucket of water.

Folk remedies

Supporters of natural remedies prefer to fight aphids with improvised means. Their main advantage is complete safety and environmental friendliness.

• Soap solution

Dissolve a piece of finely grated laundry soap in a bucket of warm water. Spray the plants on a dry, windless evening.

• Decoction of tomato or potato tops

To prepare the product you will need 1 kg. tops and a bucket of water. Tomato tops are brought to a boil, simmered for 5 hours, left for 4 hours. When using potato tops, it is better to avoid boiling. The green mass is simply poured with warm water and then left for 5-6 hours.

• Tobacco infusion

Take 0.4 kg. tobacco in a bucket of water. The infusion will be ready in 48 hours. Before use, it must be filtered. Consumption up to 200 ml. on the bush.

• Chamomile decoction

Use 500 g of raw materials and 5 liters. water. Simmer over low heat for 2-3 hours, use after complete cooling. The decoction is first diluted with water (1:3).

• Infusion of celandine

About 2 kg. celandine is poured with a bucket of water. Leave for 24 hours. Spraying is carried out after preliminary filtration.

• Wood ash solution

One of the most effective means of combating aphids. In 3 l. 0.5 kg of ash is dissolved in water. For better adhesion, add 25 g of soap. After a day, the composition is filtered and used to spray raspberries.

• Ammonia

A bucket of water will require 35 ml. drug. The composition is used immediately after preparation. Repeat the treatment after 2 weeks.

• Formula milk

Take 1:1 skim milk and water. The resulting solution is sprayed onto raspberry bushes.

• Onion broth

A bucket of hot water will require 100 g of chopped onions. The infusion will be ready in 5 days. After filtration, the composition is used against aphids, Colorado potato beetles, and codling moths.

• Garlic infusion

For 1 l. 0.2 kg of water will be required. finely grated garlic. Arrows that are cut off anyway, leaves, cloves can be used. Insist the composition for 5 days. Before use, dilute in a bucket of water.

• Pepper infusion

The pepper pod is cut into two halves, poured with a liter of water, and simmered on fire for 2 hours. The cooled infusion is stored in the dark. Before use, dilute in water (0.25 liters per bucket), add a little soap.

• Planting herbs, onions, garlic, mint, calendula, and chamomile around the raspberry tree

What to do and how to fight in different seasons?

The method of fighting depends on the time of year. The number of pests and the phase of plant development are taken into account.

in spring

Before the buds open, in early spring, abundant spraying of the root zone and shoots is carried out. Any ready-made solutions are used: contact, systemic insecticides with long-term action. Treatment begins after the snow melts, when daytime temperatures have settled at +5-10 degrees.

In the middle zone, protective measures take place at the end of March, in the south on the 10-15th of the month. In the Ural and Siberian regions, primary spraying is carried out in early April. The pest will be destroyed and will have time to decompose before flowering begins.

What to do:

• The solution is applied on a windless, sunny day, in the morning or at sunset.
• overwintered mulch and plant remains are removed;
• after inspecting the bushes, sanitary pruning is carried out;
• chemical treatment is carried out.

During flowering

1. Protective measures should be started as early as possible, during the bud formation phase. Usually this is the end of May - beginning of June.
2. Chemical solutions used before bud break and copper-containing preparations are taken.
3. During the period of bee pollination, chemicals are prohibited. To protect the flowering bush, biological and folk remedies with a short period of action are used. Otherwise, the treatment will repel beneficial insects.

During the fruiting period

1. Raspberry pulp can accumulate chemical compounds, which can cause an allergic reaction or poisoning.
2. Traditional methods of control are used that affect the nervous system of pests and cause their death.
3. Chamomile successfully copes with this. The solution (1 l/3 tbsp) brewed for 15 minutes is filtered, brought to a volume of 3 l and sprayed onto all parts of the bush. Frequency – once a week.

Actions after picking berries (September-October):

• repeat the chemical treatment that was carried out in early spring;
• raspberries can be sprayed with aggressive compounds (Fufanon, Intavir);
• When the weather gets colder, the soil between the rows is dug up. Watering is carried out with iron sulfate (according to the instructions) and wood ash is added. Consumption – 100 g per sq.m.

How to protect raspberry bushes

What should you do if there are aphids on raspberries in the garden? When disembarking, do not save space. The sparser the bushes grow, the better.

With the arrival of the first warm spring days, once a day inspect the raspberry bushes, and other garden plants too.

After each harvest, cut off old or excess branches from the bushes. Do not allow it to occur near anthills.

How to treat raspberries against aphids?

For preventative purposes, treat raspberries with Inta-vir. Its solution perfectly repels aphids. The solution is prepared at the rate of one pill per 10 liters. water. Spray the raspberries with these products from a spray bottle or take an ordinary broom. The consumption of the solution per 10 m2 of raspberry garden is no more than one and a half liters.

Chemicals

Chemical repellents for aphids If there are a large number of insects on a plant, the pest cannot be controlled without chemicals. They should be used before buds open and flower, or after the last berry picking. The most effective drugs are:

• Aktara remedy;
• Aktellik;
• Inta-Vir;
• Kinmiks;
• Karbofos;
• Fitoverm;
• Spark;
• Tanrek;
• Fufanon.

To preserve the harvest, these products are diluted according to the instructions and sprayed on the raspberries using a spray bottle. Treatment is usually carried out on a dry, windless day.

Varieties that can resist aphids

Aphids feel great on smooth young raspberry leaves. However, it cannot attach to densely pubescent leaves. There are raspberry varieties that are immune to the raspberry aphid. For example, Tarusa, Lilac Fog, Aborigine, Beauty of Russia, Stolichnaya, Moroseyka. With proper care and timely pruning, these crops are almost not attacked by insect pests.

Mistakes of beginner gardeners

The main mistake is treating plants in rainy, hot, windy weather. The active ingredients are destroyed by UV rays and washed off by raindrops.

Other risk factors:

• incorrect choice of planting material;
• dense planting pattern;
• incorrect concentration of chemicals;
• improper application of fertilizers;
• too frequent irrigation;
• lack of autumn processing of raspberries.

Source

What pests do raspberries have?

There are quite a few varieties of raspberry pests. They can affect various vegetative organs of plants at different stages of their development. To prevent harmful insects from taking the gardener by surprise, it is better to get to know them in advance.

Raspberry stem (shoot) gall midge

The pest damages raspberries and blackberries. A small mosquito (1.6–2.2 mm) that flies in May-July during raspberry flowering. The female lays eggs on shoots, from which larvae emerge after 8–10 days. They crawl under the bark of stems and feed on their sap. At the site where the larvae invade, swellings (galls) are formed, in which the larvae remain overwintering. The galls reach 3 cm in length and 2 cm in width. Cracks form on the swellings, the bark begins to peel off, the shoot collapses and easily breaks off at the site of damage.

The raspberry shoot gall midge is a small mosquito; its larvae penetrate the raspberry stem and form swellings (galls) that reach 3 cm in length and 2 cm in width

In spring, each gall can contain from two to eleven larvae, which grow to 3–4 mm and pupate. At the end of May, during the raspberry flowering period, adult individuals appear. The insect is very harmful and can damage up to 70% of raspberry shoots.

Video: raspberry affected by stem gall midge

Raspberry nutcracker

An insect 2–3 mm long with a black body and stalk-like abdomen. Like the shoot gall midge, it damages raspberry stems. The larvae penetrate inside the shoot and, feeding on its tissues, cause swelling. Affected stems also easily break off or dry out. Fruiting declines sharply. The galls formed from damage by the gall midge differ in size from the swellings formed from damage by the stem gall midge and can reach a length of 10 cm.

Raspberry nutcracker is a small insect whose larvae infect raspberry stems, forming swellings that can reach 10 cm in length.

Raspberry shoot aphid

The pest belongs to the order of homoptera proboscis insects. The color of the aphids is light green with a waxy coating, size is about 2.5 mm. It infects the ends of shoots and leaf petioles, sucking the juice from them. The leaves curl, the shoots become bent, and growth stops. Raspberries do not bear fruit because the flowers stop developing and dry out. The pest causes significant damage during drought. Plants severely damaged by aphids lose their frost resistance. Aphids are also carriers of raspberry viral diseases.

The female aphid lays shiny black eggs on shoots near the buds, where they overwinter. With the beginning of the growing season, larvae appear and feed on the sap of the buds. Developing rapidly, without fertilization, they give birth to living larvae. Several generations develop over the course of a season. In summer, winged aphids appear and spread to other plants.

Raspberry shoot aphid is a small (about 2.5 mm) light green insect that infects the ends of raspberry shoots and leaf petioles, sucking the juice from them

Raspberry weevil (raspberry flower beetle)

The pest can also be called the strawberry-raspberry weevil, since it damages strawberries and strawberries in addition to raspberries. Black (maybe with a brown tint) is a small bug measuring 2.5–3 mm with a long thin proboscis. Beetles overwinter under plant debris and lumps of earth. In the spring, the pest feeds on young leaves, and before flowering, lays one egg in each bud and gnaws the peduncle, which breaks and remains hanging on the film. A larva emerges from the egg, eats the bud and pupates in it. The weevil causes great damage to the crop. In mid-summer, young beetles hatch and feed on leaves and petioles.

The raspberry-strawberry weevil is a small black bug (2.5–3 mm) that damages raspberry buds and peduncles

Raspberry beetle

One of the most dangerous raspberry pests. During years of mass flight, it damages up to 30% of buds and flowers. The dirty-gray beetle is densely covered with rusty-yellow or grayish hairs, giving it the color of dirty rust.

For wintering, the beetles penetrate the soil to a depth of 15–20 cm. They crawl out from there when the ground warms up to 12°C and begin to feed on pollen and anthers of fruit and berry crops, as well as flowering weeds. During the period of bud development on raspberries, beetles switch to this crop. They gnaw flowers, buds, young leaves. In raspberry flowers, the pest gnaws out nectaries and lays one egg at a time, from which worm-like larvae emerge after 8–10 days. They gnaw out the stalks and bases of the berries, which become ugly and dull, become smaller, wither and rot. The quality of the crop decreases sharply. When picking berries, you can often find beetle larvae inside.

The raspberry beetle has a dirty rust color, feeds on flowers, buds, young leaves, and its larvae damage the stalks and berries

Raspberry stem fly

A brown insect, 5–7 mm long, flying in May-June is the raspberry stem fly, which may also be called the raspberry fly. At this time, young raspberry shoots begin to grow. The fly lays eggs on their tops and in the axils of leaves that are beginning to form. After about a week, the larvae hatch, which immediately penetrate into the middle of the young stems and gnaw them, making spiral and circular passages. The apical parts of damaged stems gradually wither, turn black and die after 10–15 days. Some stronger stems may produce lateral shoots, but they do not have time to ripen before autumn and die in winter. In thickened raspberry fields, up to 80% of the stems can die.

The raspberry stem fly is a brown insect 5–7 mm long, the larvae of which damage young shoots, their tops wither, turn black and die

After 12–16 days, the larvae leave the stems and penetrate the soil to a depth of 5–6 cm, where they remain to overwinter. In May, when the soil warms up at the depth of the larvae to 12–13°C, they pupate. In dry and warm weather after a week, and in rainy and cool weather after 2-3 weeks, flies begin to fly out. In addition to raspberries, the fly also damages blackberries.

Video: why raspberry shoots wither (raspberry fly)

Raspberry bud moth

A small moth with shiny purple-brown forewings covered with yellow speckles. The hind wings are gray with black silver fringe. The wingspan is 11–14 mm. The caterpillars are red with a black head, 7–9 mm long. The pest overwinters in the caterpillar stage in cocoons under the bark of raspberry stems, in stumps or on the ground under bushes. In early spring, the caterpillars crawl out and invade the raspberry buds, which dry out and can only produce single leaves. Gnawing out a bud, the caterpillar penetrates into the middle of the shoot and pupates. After a few days, butterflies emerge from the pupae and, during the raspberry flowering period, lay one egg in each flower. Caterpillars emerging from eggs feed on the fruit of the berries until they begin to ripen, and then descend to the base of the shoots, find shelter and overwinter in the form of a cocoon, withstanding severe frosts. The raspberry bud moth also damages blackberries and in some years can cause great damage.

The raspberry bud moth is a small nocturnal moth; its caterpillars infect raspberry buds, which dry out and can produce only single leaves

Spider mite

An arthropod, oval-shaped arachnid, grayish-green in color at the beginning of the season, and orange-red in color from late summer to spring. The mites are very small - 0.25–0.43 mm. For the winter, fertilized females hide in various shelters: in plant debris or under the bark of trees. Mites appear in the spring on the underside of young leaves, suck the juice out of them and weave them into a thick web in which they lay eggs. The larvae develop within 1–3 weeks and during this time they suck juice from leaves, green shoots and fruits. Several generations of the pest reproduce each season. Brown spots appear on the leaves, they dry out and fall off. In dry summers, plants heavily damaged by mites die. Crop losses can reach 70%.

The spider mite is very small (0.25–0.43 mm), grayish green in color, it sucks the juice from young raspberry leaves and entwines them with a web in which it lays eggs

Raspberry glass

The butterfly is blue-black in color, with a long thin body and transparent glassy wings. The yellow rings on its abdomen give it a wasp-like appearance. Wingspan 22–26 mm. In June-July, the glass beetle begins to fly and lay eggs on the soil at the base of raspberry stems. Females are very fertile, each of them can lay up to 200 eggs. The hatched caterpillars bite into the stems and roots, making numerous tunnels in which they remain for the winter. Next year they continue to make passages and then pupate, having previously prepared a hole for the butterfly to emerge. Damaged shoots develop poorly, bear fruit poorly, and become fragile in the lower part. Glasswort is less common than gall midges, weevils and beetles. Most often it can be found in neglected plantings in personal plots.

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Raspberry glasswort is a blue-black butterfly, a bit like a wasp, whose caterpillars make passages in the stems and roots of raspberries

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There are two types of cutworms that damage raspberries. The first is the raspberry cutworm, a butterfly with a wingspan of about 33 mm. The front wings are dirty purple, the hind wings are brownish-gray. Flies in June-July. The caterpillar lives in summer and autumn, damaging the leaves of raspberries, blackberries, nightshades and some other plants.

The raspberry armyworm is a butterfly with a wingspan of about 33 mm; its caterpillars damage raspberry leaves in summer and autumn.

The second species is the golden raspberry cutworm. A butterfly with lemon-yellow wings covered with rusty-brown spots. Along the edges of the wings there is a wavy line with dots. Lives from August to October. The caterpillar is gray-brown and damages raspberries, gooseberries and other cultivated and wild plants.

The golden raspberry cutworm has lemon-yellow wings with rusty-brown spots; its caterpillars damage raspberries, gooseberries and other cultivated and wild plants

Symptoms and signs of damage

In order to determine signs of the presence of aphids on a bush, you need to carefully examine it. The insect is usually found on the tops of bushes, in young leaves, inflorescences, and under raspberry leaves.

Signs of aphid activity:

• inflorescences dry out and fall off;
• leaves curl, turn yellow and fall off;
• stems and twigs dry out;
• leaves and branches become covered with a sticky coating.

During their life, aphids secrete sweet excrement, which is licked off by ants. In this way, insects take care of each other. In gratitude for the food provided, the ants protect the aphids and transfer them to succulent young shoots.

How can it be applied?

The fight against aphids and ants using celandine is done in different ways:

• dusting;
• disinfection solutions;
• tinctures for watering and spraying.

Powdering

A simple way to get rid of aphids, proven by gardeners, is dusting. Celandine is collected by cutting off the bushes to the very roots. The plant is then dried and ground into powder.

Use the powder like this:

1. For shrubs and young shoots, sprinkle the powder onto the shoots affected by aphids.
2. To protect bulbous plants, pour the powder into the soil before planting the bulbs.
3. To protect the roots of fruit crops before planting, after the water has been absorbed, pour the powder into and around the planting hole.

Disinfection of flower bulbs

Celandine against aphids is used in several ways to disinfect bulbs:

• prepare a solution - the plant is collected during flowering, kneaded well so that it produces juice, and steamed with boiling water. Leave until completely cooled. The bulbs are immersed in the solution for 2 minutes;
• celandine powder - the dried plant is ground and sprinkled on the planting sites of the bulbs;
• storage – bulbs can be stored in dried celandine in winter. Place the celandine on the newspaper, on top of the bulb. Then wrap it carefully. Store in this form until spring.

Landing protection

Plantings are protected from pests with the help of celandine, preparing solutions that are used for spraying or watering trees. Large wood cannot be treated with powder, so this method is used.

Experienced gardeners recommend leaving celandine plantings between plantings. This will help repel aphids and ants. In celandine, the roots contain even more alkaloids than the trunk itself. Therefore, ants, aphids and many pests do not like this plant.

Infusions

To treat large areas against aphids, it is recommended to prepare an infusion of celandine. Using infusions, you can water the soil around the plantings, or you can spray or treat tubers or bulbs.

Decoctions are prepared depending on the need for use:

Fumigation

Fumigation effectively repels pests and destroys them if they have settled on plants.

To use this method for processing, you need:

1. Cut off the celandine.
2. Let it dry in the sun for 24 hours.
3. Place between the beds, near the trees.
4. Place a fire source (preferably hot charcoal) under each pile of celandine.
5. Make sure that the smoke covers the area.

Mulching

Mulching saturates the soil with nutrients, oxygen and helps protect plants from pests.

To prepare mulch, you need to pick celandine. Then freshly chop it finely, it is better to pass it through a meat grinder.

Mulch can be added in several ways:

• on tree trunk circles - scatter finely chopped celandine in a small layer near tree trunks. Then water the ground, as soon as the water is absorbed, the ground is a little ventilated, you need to dig everything up;
• near vegetable crops - scatter mulch and loosen the soil. It is recommended to water after a few days;
• on berry crops - spread the mulch in a dense layer between the strawberry beds. After a few days, loosen and water.

Preparation of biological insecticide

To prepare an effective insecticide, you must:

• collect six mature celandine plants;
• mash the plants so that they release juice;
• put in a 10-liter bucket and fill with warm water;
• leave for one day;
• squeeze out the grass;
• add 200 ml of liquid soap to the bucket.

Fight against codling moth, raspberry gall midge, apple blossom beetle

We have not discussed all the pests, because many of them cannot cause any harm in small private gardens, but only cause modest damage. In our gardens, as a rule, an abundance of different crops grows mixed together, and this makes the garden resemble a wild forest in terms of the number of different insects: here many pests are destroyed naturally.

So, in the forest on raspberries you will not find raspberry stem gall midge (round growths at the base of the stem), and on an apple tree you will not find the codling moth. There are relatively few of them in our gardens. In industrial gardens, these pests can multiply en masse.

The gall midge often ends up on the site along with purchased raspberry seedlings from the nursery, where it lives more than at ease (no one fights it there: what fool would cut out and burn shoots that can be sold?), and for several years it can “rage” "in your raspberry garden, and then gradually goes away. Cutting out and burning every single affected stem significantly speeds up its care.

The codling moth is difficult to destroy chemically, as it produces many generations over the summer, and you will have to spray endlessly. A simple way to reduce its population is not to leave the carrion overnight, pick up the fallen apples and throw them into a barrel of fertilizer. (Again, in an industrial garden, this measure is impossible, but in our garden with single apple trees, it is quite feasible.) The fight against the codling moth is another reason to cut down dubious apple trees in the garden, small sour apples from which no one collects, and they lie under the carpet. trees, multiplying the codling moth.

Rules for processing raspberries with folk remedies

The natural composition of home remedies to combat aphids does not mean that they are absolutely safe. If hot pepper gets into your eyes or mucous membranes, it can cause a burn. And preparing a solution from tomato and potato tops can lead to an allergic reaction. Therefore, even using such simple components, you should not neglect protective equipment.

Plants should be treated in dry weather. The ingredients in home remedies against aphids do not penetrate the plant cells. They are easily washed off by rain. To protect raspberries from aphids, it is advisable to choose a time in the morning when the sun dries the grass from dew. The processing efficiency also decreases in strong winds.

To protect raspberries from aphids using folk remedies, you need to treat the bushes every week.

Chemical preparations for aphids

In cases of mass infestation of raspberries by aphids, when folk remedies cannot cope with its quantity, it is necessary to use toxic chemicals. They rid raspberries of aphids much faster, but if you use them carelessly or incorrectly, you can get poisoned. In addition, after treating plants with chemicals, harmful substances can accumulate in the fruits, so it is very important to carefully study the instructions and treat the bushes only with aqueous solutions of insecticidal preparations in the concentration specified by the manufacturer. More effective than others in dealing with aphids on raspberries:

• Antitlin, which destroys both adult insects and larvae and is used twice a season: before the raspberries begin to bloom and after harvesting;
• Green soap that destroys adult aphids and third-stage larvae. It can be used throughout the growing season. To completely get rid of aphids you will need 3 treatments;
• Karbofos, which destroys aphids at any stage of development in two sessions: before flowering and after picking berries;
• Kilzar, capable of coping with aphids at any stage of development with a one-time treatment of bushes before flowering;
• Nitrophen, used in early spring, before the start of sap flow, to destroy overwintered aphids and their oviposition.

Who attacked the strawberry flowers?

The strawberry beetle attacks strawberry buds, causing damage to the first, largest flowers, which is so unpleasant for the gardener. As far as I remember, there was not a spring when the harvest did not seem irretrievably lost due to the blackened centers of the flowers. Although every time there are plenty of berries set, even without any measures. And if you dust it with ash or dolomite flour, the beetle’s agility will decrease. Try it once and you will see the effectiveness of this technique.

The dusting technique is simple. According to the classics, it is supposed to “collect ashes in a burlap bundle and, by tapping, scatter it over flowering plants.” I make it simpler: I sprinkle the inflorescences with a pinch of ash, as if adding some salt, trying to sprinkle a little in the middle of the bush (the beetle does not like to “walk” on the ash). So, a bowl of ash is enough for you to process a whole strawberry.

Do raspberries need to be processed?

In the climatic conditions of the south and central zone of our country, classic and remontant raspberry varieties take root and develop equally well. But despite the assertion of modern breeders, remontant hybrids require regular treatments and are damaged by pests and diseases no less than classic raspberry varieties. Temperature changes during the growing season and during the dormant period, unfavorable environmental conditions, and lack of nutrients can reduce the plant's immunity and make it vulnerable.

In the event that infected planting material appears on a personal plot, the entire fruit and berry plantation may suffer. Therefore, it is recommended to process them immediately after purchasing seedlings. During the summer, the condition of the plantings is monitored, if necessary, spraying is carried out and damaged shoots are removed. During fruiting, the shrub also requires attention, because not only beneficial insects live on the site, but also pests that love to feast on fragrant berries. For example, raspberry beetle larvae can destroy almost the entire crop, while leaf gall midges and weevils can damage young shoots. And anthracnose and bushy dwarfism harm the entire berry garden, while the gardener is not aware of it, because not all viral and fungal diseases are immediately noticeable. To enjoy the berries, there is no way to do without preventive treatments of raspberries.

A rich raspberry harvest cannot be obtained without proper plant care.

Raspberry pests

The most dangerous pests of raspberries, widespread throughout our country - on industrial lands and private plots - are stem gall midges, raspberry beetles and raspberry-strawberry weevils:

The raspberry stem gall midge causes irreparable damage to the berry plantation - it lays its larvae in young shoots, thereby causing the leaves to wither; the bark darkens and becomes covered with rough growths. To reduce significant damage from this insect, raspberry fields are treated twice a season - in May, when the period of egg laying of the first generation of the pest begins, and after harvesting (the first ten days of September)

It is important to treat the lower part of raspberry leaves - this is where female gall midges lay eggs. Another detractor of raspberries is the raspberry beetle, the female of which lays eggs in flower stalks. Larvae (worms) severely damage fruits, they wither, rot and do not ripen completely

The offspring of the raspberry beetle can damage up to 50% of the crop. Adults eat buds and destroy flowers. Worms become active in wet weather. In the fight against the pest, the most effective method is to dig up the soil in the raspberry field in which the beetle overwinters. Adults of the raspberry-strawberry weevil harm succulent young shoots, and the larva prevents the formation of buds, thereby reducing the yield on raspberries. The female lays larvae in unopened buds, thereby providing comfortable conditions for the development of young insects. Raspberry flowers, ready to open, break and dry out. Not only the raspberry plantation, but also most of the fruit and berry bushes on the site suffer enormous damage from the weevil.

Photo gallery: the most common raspberry pests

Raspberry diseases

Wherever raspberries are cultivated - in the southern latitudes of our country or in the northern ones - there is a possibility of infection with fungal and viral diseases of berry crops that affect the root system, shoots, leaves and berries.

Viral infections of berry plants develop as a result of pollen from diseased plants or when using tools to trim shoots contaminated with the sap of diseased plants. Complete elimination of this problem is unlikely, so most often diseased bushes are dug up and burned, green manure is sown in the place of the old raspberry tree, and after a year healthy material from the nursery is planted again. A preventative measure to combat viruses in raspberry plantings is the timely destruction of aphids, raspberry beetles, and cicadas.

Dwarf bushiness (left), curl (center) and chlorosis (right) are the main enemies of raspberries

Fungal diseases are spread by insects that carry spores. Infected shoots must be cut out and promptly removed from the site, fallen leaves and berries must be burned, and raspberries must be planted in ventilated, sunny places.

Fungal anthracnose (left) is treated with copper-containing drugs, but wilt (right) is much more difficult to get rid of