Cucumber is a tasty, life-giving fruit that can be eaten both fresh and pickled. It is very good in salads and okroshka, in canned food and winter preparations, and is effectively used as a traditional medicine and as a cosmetic product.
Everyone knows that this juicy and healthy vegetable can grow in an ordinary garden and in a “warm” garden bed, in a greenhouse and even on a balcony. However, not everyone knows that cucumbers are a rather capricious garden crop that cannot easily take root in a new place and require special attention and care.
This situation exists due to the individual characteristics of the cucumber root system, the depth and location of which has a significant impact on the growth, development and fruiting of the entire crop. For example, it is not recommended to replant a vegetable, and when planting it in open ground, it is necessary to adhere to the proper requirements and conditions.
Therefore, it is very important to know what kind of root system cucumbers have in order to be able to strengthen, strengthen and improve it. This is exactly what our article will discuss.
Description of underground structure
The root system of the vegetable consists of one large root, from which lateral shoots emanate, located along a radius. The very first of them form a real web-like network, but they are located very close to the surface of the earth, which provokes their constant damage and disruption. At the same time, this structure helps the garden crop to hold onto the soil more tightly and absorb more nutrients and life-giving moisture.
What is the depth of the cucumber root system? Its height is approximately one and a half meters, which allows the vegetable to find nutrients deep in the soil.
How does the root system of cucumbers develop (photos of it are presented in the review)? Where does its formation and prosperity begin? The answer is obvious - of course, from landing.
Loosening cucumbers is useful if you do it correctly!
Loosening beds with cucumbers is an important agrotechnical activity. It allows for good aeration and water permeability of the soil. Due to the superficial additional root system of cucumbers, the tree trunk circles should be loosened carefully in order to bring benefit and not harm to the crop. Following the tips and recommendations for the correct procedure will allow you to grow a healthy plant and get a high yield.
Root system of cucumbers
A strong and healthy root system is the key to a large, high-quality harvest of juicy, crispy fruits. A subtropical plant that loves warmth, it is a representative of the Cucurbitaceae genus. All crops united under this name have a similar root trunk.
Structural features
The root system consists of a highly developed main stem with first-order lateral roots extending from it. Despite the similarity of the underground part of cucumbers and, for example, zucchini, the former have a much smaller root trunk: it makes up only 1-2% of the mass of the entire bush. Although the ability to absorb moisture is very high. The roots are located close to the surface layer of soil (depth 20-30 cm) and are strongly branched, which helps to better feed and absorb liquid, being firmly held in the soil.
The number of fruits depends on the development of the root system. Deepening the main rod leads to less branching and less yield.
Formation
To obtain a powerful root system, close attention is paid to cucumbers even at the seedling stage. When growing from seeds, the technique of adding soil is used. Gradually, during the development of seedlings, fertile substrate is added to the container. Thanks to this technique, the size of the roots can be doubled. There are a number of factors that influence the formation of a healthy root system after planting cucumbers in the garden:
- Soil composition and structure - the crop develops well on loose, light soil.
- Fertility - the beds are pre-prepared with the addition of humus containing nitrogen in an accessible form and phosphorus.
- Lighting and humidity - for abundant flowering and ovary formation, the planting pattern in moist soil is 40 cm between rows and 50 cm between bushes. This provides light access to the plants.
Cucumbers do not tolerate transplantation well due to the structural features of the roots - seedlings are forced out in separate peat pots.
Nuances of loosening
The amount of harvest depends on the timeliness of agrotechnical measures. The depth of loosening between rows is 4-8 cm. It is carried out after rain or watering, which helps prevent rapid evaporation of moisture and the formation of a crust.
Benefits and harms
Cucumbers grow well in light soil, which allows the development of first-order lateral roots, which provide adequate nutrition for the crop. To prevent compaction of the soil, it is systematically loosened, improving aeration. However, they do this carefully. Deep loosening can cause irreparable harm by damaging the delicate roots of cucumbers.
Tips on how to do it right
The first time the soil is loosened after the emergence of seedlings, when the beds are designated. The procedure is combined with the removal of weeds. Subsequently, loosening is carried out at ten-day intervals. Experienced vegetable growers use pitchforks. They stick them into the space between the rows and immediately remove them without turning over the earthen ball. As a result, the roots are not damaged, and access to air and water is ensured.
Heavy rainfall harms the crop by preventing air from reaching the roots. The impervious crust is also destroyed by rakes, rotary hoes, seed harrows or other implements, as well as by constant watering in small portions. It is useful to loosen the beds before moistening to a depth of 10-12 cm. In this case, the moisture reserve in the soil will be higher, and the roots of the crop will be more vital.
In order not to damage the roots of cucumbers, you can reduce the frequency of loosening by covering the tree trunk circles with a layer of mulch. The latter will also nourish the culture with the necessary macro- and microelements.
To increase productivity and harvest healthy fruits, cucumbers should grow in light soil. To maintain a water- and breathable structure, the tree trunk circles are systematically loosened, affecting only the surface layer. This avoids damaging the delicate roots.
Sowing cucumber seeds
Yes, the depth of the root system of cucumbers is truly impressive. However, in order to sow these vegetables, you will need shallow peat cups that can remove themselves after a certain period of time and thereby fertilize the plant with peat minerals.
Experts do not recommend using a common box for sowing. Individual planting of seeds will help to carefully transplant the root shoots. This is due to the fact that when seedlings are directly planted in the ground, the root system of cucumbers, the size of which will already reach ten centimeters in length, is practically not affected. This procedure can be carried out just two to three weeks after germination.
Are there any additional tips for planting cucumber seedlings?
Preparing holes for seedlings
Since the cucumber root system is large in size and volume, and also because it is very weak and fragile, it is not recommended to plant several shoots in one hole. By taking away useful microelements from each other and shielding each other from the warming sun, plants will focus all their energy on survival rather than on fruiting. This will negatively affect both their development and the quality and quantity of the harvest.
What is the optimal distance to maintain between holes? From practice it is clear that the best distance between plants (as well as between rows) should be thirty centimeters.
Biological features of cucumbers
Under favorable growing conditions, cucumber seeds sprout 4-6 days after sowing; during the first growing season, the root system grows more intensively than the above-ground part of the plant. Subsequently, the growth of the aerial part increases. When seeds germinate, 2 thick fleshy cotyledons appear on the soil surface, which act as leaves, feeding all the organs of the young plant. Their importance in the life of a plant is very great: the growth and timing of the beginning of flowering of cucumbers depend on them. The first true leaf is formed only 5-6 days after germination. During its formation, flower tubercles begin to form in the axil. 8-10 days after the first leaf, the second one is formed. After the root system has developed sufficiently, rapid growth of leaves and stems begins. Each new leaf appears after 5-4 days, then after 1 day, every day, and then 2 or more leaves are formed per day. The stem also grows slowly at first, and then faster, reaching an increase of up to 2 cm per day, after the formation of 4-6 leaves in early-ripening varieties, and 6-8 in late-ripening varieties, shoots of the first order develop from the axils of the leaves of the main stem. In the axils of the leaves of shoots of the first order, shoots of the second order are formed, etc.
After fertilization under normal growing conditions, the cucumber ovaries grow quickly, and the fruits reach technical (removable) maturity within 7 - 12 days after fertilization (green phase).
Relation to temperature conditions. Cucumber is one of the most heat-loving crops. Seeds begin to germinate only at a soil temperature of 15-18 ° C (hardened seeds can germinate at 10-13 ° C). At lower temperatures, the seed coat and its contents swell and rot, which is often observed during early sowing. For seed germination, the optimal temperature must be maintained daily for at least 5-6 hours. The higher the temperature, the faster and more friendly the seedlings appear. When sown in soil heated to 20 °C, seedlings appear after 5 days, at 18 °C - after 10.
At temperatures below 13-15 °C, plant development stops, the absorption of nutrients and water by the roots is weakened, favorable conditions are created for the spread of root rot, powdery mildew and other diseases, and female flowers fall off. A prolonged decrease in temperature to 8-10 °C or exposure to temperatures of 3-4 °C for 3-4 days can lead to plant death. At a temperature of 6 °C the leaves turn yellow. Seedlings and adult plants do not tolerate frost. Cucumber plants tolerate low temperatures after germination more easily than low temperatures during germination.
Cucumber is especially sensitive to temperature conditions during the formation of reproductive organs. A decrease in temperature below 16 C and an increase above 25 ° C during the flowering period has a depressing effect on the growth of pollen tubes - the pollen becomes sterile, fertilization stops. The optimal temperature for flowering and fertilization of flowers is 18-21 °C.
At optimal temperatures (22-25°C), flowering begins, depending on the variety, on the 22-28th day after emergence, and the formation of green foliage begins on the 32-38th. At a daytime temperature of 17-19 °C and a night temperature of 12-14 °C, early-ripening varieties begin to bear fruit only after 40-50 days, mid-ripening varieties - after 45-55, late-ripening - 55-65 days after emergence.
Prolonged cold and wet weather damages the plant to a greater extent than prolonged drought. Cold snaps at night in summer and early autumn shorten the growing season of cucumbers. With sharp temperature fluctuations, they experience a lag in growth, first of all, the roots die off. At elevated temperatures, plant growth stops at 42 °C.
Cucumber fruits grow mainly at night, when organic matter breaks down and its products flow into the fruit. The greenery grows most intensively at temperatures of 20-25 °C during the day and 18-20 °C at night; at lower temperatures, fruiting stops.
The sum of effective air temperatures required for the growth and development of cucumbers, from sowing to the start of harvesting, is 1172-1198 °C. Currently, a number of cold-resistant varieties have been developed, but they are still most productive in warm, humid climates.
Attitude to moisture. Cucumber places increased demands on soil and air humidity; for seed swelling, 36-42% of water from its absolutely dry mass is needed, and for germination - 20-25% more. Cucumber plants have a relatively weakly protected leaf surface from evaporation, so to form 1 g of dry mass, it evaporates 500-800 g of water. In addition, the cucumber root system has a low suction force (1.5-2 atm), and therefore it is sensitive to a lack of moisture not only in the soil, but also in the air. Even with favorable soil moisture, but with very dry air, plants reduce their yield.
Cucumber plants stop growing if soil moisture drops to 10.1% of HC (lowest water holding capacity). With insufficient soil moisture and low relative air humidity, cucumber plants grow poorly, develop slowly, the first ovaries fall off, and the yield and its quality decrease. At the same time, excess soil moisture exceeding 85% of the total moisture capacity, combined with low temperature, leads to the death of the root system.
The optimal soil moisture for cucumber is 75-95% HB, and the relative air humidity is 70-80%. Plants need higher soil moisture in the first period of the growing season - before flowering. The plant consumes the greatest amount of water during the period of intensive fruiting, when the plant can use more than 5 liters per day. Therefore, cucumber is sensitive to drought, especially during flowering and fruiting periods.
A decrease in air humidity in greenhouses to 50% causes leaves to wilt, which reduces the assimilation of carbon dioxide by 40-50% at the initial signs of wilting and by 70-80% in plants with drooping leaves. In wilted leaves, the loss of plastic substances through respiration exceeds the gain from assimilation by 3-4 times.
It should be remembered that cucumbers do not tolerate watering with cold water or water whose temperature is lower than the soil temperature. In this case, the root hairs rot and the plants die.
Attitude to light. Cucumber is the only representative of cultivated plants of the pumpkin family that can bear fruit in low light conditions, in the range of 2000-2400 lux, but actively responds to improved lighting conditions. This plant is day-length neutral, but has short-day traits. In most varieties of this crop, when the day length is reduced to 10-12 hours (by shading in the morning-evening hours, rich in long-wave red rays) for 20-25 days during the seedling period, plant development accelerates, the formation of female flowers intensifies and accelerates, and early and total harvest. With a long day, a large vegetative mass and few fruits are formed. The cucumber plant reacts positively to an increase in light intensity in all phases of development, especially at a young age. Lack of sunlight reduces assimilation and delays flowering by 1-2 weeks. Frequent rains, lack of light, and thickening of plants lengthen the growing season of cucumbers; in addition, with a lack of light, less sugars and other nutrients accumulate in the fruits. For uniform lighting, timely weeding and thinning are necessary.
Attitude to the air regime. The cucumber plant receives carbon dioxide and oxygen from the air. The carbon dioxide content in the air is very low - 0.03%, and cucumber develops most productively if there is at least 0.3-0.5% carbon dioxide in the ground layer. An additional source of carbon dioxide is soil. Organic and mineral fertilizers and soil microorganisms that decompose organic matter play a major role in the formation and release of carbon dioxide. The carbon dioxide content in greenhouses is increased to 0.4-0.7% by burning gas, using carbon dioxide and introducing large doses of organic fertilizers. Feeding cucumber plants with carbon dioxide increases their resistance to diseases and pests. At the same time, an increase in the concentration of ammonia, which is released during the decomposition of organic matter, above 0.6% causes leaf burns, and at 4% the plants die.
For respiration and normal development, plants need oxygen, which is especially needed by the root system. If there is a lack of it in the soil, the growth of the root system is delayed, and under anaerobic conditions the plant sometimes switches to nitrate respiration, and most of the roots die. Cucumber seeds with a lack of oxygen sharply reduce germination energy, and often germination. This is one of the reasons for the high responsiveness of cucumber to light and loose soils.
The presence of oxygen in the soil largely depends on its mechanical composition. The optimal ratio of liquid, solid and gaseous phases of soil for cucumber plants should be 1:2:3.
Attitude to batteries. Cucumber grows quickly and enters the fruiting period early, so this crop has a relatively high nutrient consumption compared to other vegetables. The most important nutrients are macroelements, which are consumed from the soil in large quantities (N, P, K, Ca), and microelements (B, Mn, Cu, Zn, Mg, Mo, etc.), which the cucumber needs in small quantities. On podzolic soils of average fertility (in kg): 28 - N, 15 - P2O5, 44 - K2O and 33 - CaO per 100 centners of commercial products.
The requirements of different varieties of cucumber, as well as one plant during the growing season, for soil fertility are not the same. The absorption of nutrients in the initial phases is weak, since the root system is not sufficiently developed. During this period, the plant consumes about 10% of nutrients and needs easily digestible forms of fertilizers and their low concentration.
From the beginning of flowering to the formation of ovaries, up to 20% of nutrients enter the plant, and the main part (70%) is consumed during the fruiting period.
Most of all, cucumber removes potassium from the soil, which is easily absorbed, regulates metabolism in the plant, increases disease resistance, cold resistance, increases the content of dry matter and sugars, and improves the taste of fruits. With a lack of potassium, a pale yellow border appears on the edges of the leaves (starting from the bottom); in the heat they wilt. The fruits are pear-shaped. During severe starvation, dark brown spots form between the veins of the leaves. The greatest need for potassium is during the fruiting period.
Phosphorus is of great importance in the initial period of development. Its deficiency inhibits the flow of nitrogen into the root system. Prolonged phosphorus starvation weakens the plant, the growth of the vine slows down, the leaves become small, dense, and dark green. With an acute deficiency, large watery spots appear on old leaves, which spread to young ones. Damaged leaves wither. An optimal supply of phosphorus before flowering is very important for cucumbers.
If there is a lack of assimilable nitrogen in the soil, plants grow poorly, the leaves become pale green, then turn yellow, with the lower leaves becoming more discolored. The flowers are relatively large, the fruits are short, light green, pointed. An excessive amount of nitrogen in the soil, especially with a lack of phosphorus, causes increased growth of vegetative organs, while flowering and fruiting are delayed. The cucumber crop is most demanding of nitrogen during the period of leaf formation and during fruiting.
Calcium stimulates the development of roots, especially root hairs, improves soil structure, and reduces acidity. If there is a deficiency of it, white spots appear along the edges and between the veins of the leaves, then only the main veins remain green. Growth stops, internodes remain short, the youngest leaves have upward-curved edges, and later wrinkle. Old leaves curl down, the fruits become small, rough, and tasteless. Damage to the apical buds is also observed, and the leaves of the middle tier become dome-shaped.
Magnesium plays an important role in many life processes of plants. With its deficiency, yellow spots (chlorosis) appear between the veins on old leaves, starting from the edges of the blades and spreading to the middle of the leaf. With an excess of magnesium, the leaves become darker and sometimes curl.
Cucumbers are very sensitive to soil salinity and soil solution concentration. They cannot tolerate high (more than 1%) concentrations of soil solution. The optimal concentration of mineral salts for cucumber plants at the beginning of the growing season is 0.03-0.04%, in the middle - 0.05-0.07%, the amount of aluminum is no more than 3-4 mg per 100 g of soil.
Cucumber responds well to mineral nutrition through the leaves (foliar feeding), especially after a long cold spell, when the root system cannot yet provide the plant with nutrition.
On floodplain and peaty soils, plants often lack microelements. With a lack of boron, cucumber leaves become intensely dark green, growing points and roots die, internodes are shortened, and fruits are deformed.
Then the old leaves curl upward. To normalize growth, it is recommended to spray plants with a 0.1-0.2% solution of borax or add it to the soil at a dose of 1-2 g/sq.m.
In film greenhouses, manganese starvation of plants often occurs: chlorosis develops on old leaves in the form of a thin green mesh, and subsequently the entire leaf becomes yellow, with the exception of the veins. Necrotic depressed spots form on the tissue between the veins. In case of such phenomena, the plant is repeatedly sprayed with a 1% solution of manganese sulfate or embedded in the soil at the rate of 5-10 g/sq.m.
Source: https://selhozportal.info/270.htm
Seedling care: loosening
Caring for the cucumber root system primarily includes caring for the seedlings themselves.
These vegetables prefer soil rich in ozone, so the soil around them should be regularly loosened and fluffed up. However, this must be done carefully, since the root system of the cucumber is very close to the surface of the earth.
It is recommended to constantly inspect the soil in which vegetables are grown. If the soil becomes crusty, which may impede air exchange, then the soil must be lightly cultivated. But not too deep, so as not to damage the root processes.
Hilling
Hilling cucumbers is not recommended. This can be done only in rare cases - when the lower stem of the plant is damaged and it dies. Then the thin shoot is rolled up and covered with a bucket of black soil, after which there is a possibility of the formation of a new, strengthened root system.
So, we have looked at practical tips on how to start growing cucumbers in your summer cottage. Are there additional recommendations regarding strengthening the root system of this crop? Let's find out.
Irrigation
The correct development of the cucumber root system includes the totality of all methods and methods created for its growth and strengthening.
Where should you start with compassionate care? Without what is it impossible to grow a single living plant? Of course, without watering.
Yes, soil moisture is very important. It must be carried out every four to five days during flowering and every two to three days during fruiting.
How to strengthen the root system of cucumbers during watering? First of all, you should not use cold water. This requirement can be explained by how extreme heat affects the plant. At high ambient temperatures, its stem thickens and the upper part of the root overheats. The penetration of cold water provokes the formation of microcracks, which means it contributes to the appearance of bacteria and microbes.
How can you get warm water at your summer cottage? The advice is simple and straightforward - place a large barrel in the garden, fill it with life-giving moisture and wait until it warms up in the sun to the required temperature. This may take a whole day.
Fertilizing crops in closed ground
There are other ways to strengthen the root system of cucumbers. First of all, it is a high-quality soil fertilizer.
It is recommended to plant cucumbers in “warm” beds, which are based on humus. There are several ways to build them. Below we will discuss one of them.
First of all, in open ground, you should dig a trench with a depth of forty to fifty centimeters (the surface width and length of the hole must correspond to the parameters of a regular bed).
The lowest layer of the recess will consist of large and small branches, rough tops and boards covered with sand, paper, cardboard and even rags.
The next layer will consist of sawdust, weeds and all kinds of cleaning materials, on top of which it will be necessary to lay leaves and grass mixed with compost or humus. You can also add ash, chalk, lime (if available).
After all this, fertile soil is poured out, mixed, if possible, with sand, peat or humus.
So, our “warm bed” is ready.
However, with regular soil you can also achieve a bountiful harvest. How to do this?
Pests and diseases
In addition to dampness (in greenhouses) and frost, young cucumbers are harmed by some insects, such as the Heliothrips vesicle, which sucks leaves; Tetrawychus telarius L.; mite that causes leaf dryness; field slug caterpillar; Gamma cutworms, etc., eating leaves and cotyledons.
Powdery mildew appears on adult plants in the form of small black-brown nodules (a sulfur-colored dusting is needed); also brown dry spots and small black dots, located in the spots differently depending on the type of fungus, Gloeosporium orbiculare and Phoma decorticans.
Fertilizing crops in open ground
First of all, it is necessary to add the necessary fertilizers to the soil in advance. To do this, ten to fifteen kilograms of humus are placed on one square meter of garden plot, after which everything is dug up to a height of slightly more than half a spade bayonet. This is done to ensure that the organic feed is located in the area of the main part of the cucumber’s root system.
In most cases, garden crops require nitrogen fertilizing, which should be carried out after the main watering, in sunny, windless weather. A dry nitrogen mixture (or solution) is applied at the root, and then the plant is irrigated from above so that the water flows down the leaves.
For high-quality growth of cucumbers, mineral fertilizers are also used: phosphorus (phosphate rock, superphosphate) and potassium (potassium chloride, potassium salt), as well as ash, etc.
In the process of growing this crop, not only root feeding is practiced, but also foliar feeding, which should be applied once a month.
When deciding whether to fertilize cucumbers or not, you should remember this reliable fact: the more intensively the crop develops and grows, the more often and more fertilizing should be applied. This is necessary to ensure that the roots are fully nourished and transfer the necessary minerals and trace elements to the entire plant.
So, we have examined the features of the root system of a cucumber grown in a summer cottage. Now let's find out how best to grow this crop in home gardening.
What kind of soil do cucumbers like - acidic or alkaline?
Since cucumbers prefer light, loose, nutritious, non-acidic soil, it is important to properly optimize the composition of the soil for cucumbers in the spring
- Dense clay soils are unsuitable for growing cucumbers, but even they can be brought into proper condition. It is necessary to add leavening components and humus-forming substances. These include brick chips, sand, horse and rabbit manure, litter, compost, and rotted leaves.
- Light loams require virtually no preparation. They are loose and have a high degree of aeration. It can be enriched with manure at the rate of up to 6 kg per 1 m2 of land.
- Sandy loam is light, permeates well, but does not retain moisture, is easy to process, and is characterized by the rapid transformation of organic matter. Suitable for cucumbers, but it must be taken into account that the top layer cools quickly at night and mineral substances are washed out of such light soils. This problem can be solved by adding compost or manure in the fall at the rate of 10 kg per 1 m2.
- Sandstones are not suitable for growing cucumbers because they are not able to retain moisture, and with it minerals. In addition, such soils instantly warm up and cool down at night. You can improve the soil with rotted manure or peat. A more expensive and labor-intensive method is claying. It consists of adding 2 buckets of powdered clay for every square meter of land, then adding compost or manure and digging it up. The procedure is carried out annually for at least 3 years.
- Peaty and marshy soil is not suitable for cucumbers. It is characterized by excessive fibrousness, moisture, organic matter practically does not decompose here, and the peat sours. You can distinguish this type of soil from others by its color - it will be light brown. To optimize the composition, you first need to dry it, then make channels for water drainage. After this, per 1 m2. half a bucket of sand, the same amount of powdered clay and about 1 kg of lime are added to the plot, depending on the acidity level. After this, the area is dug up to a depth of at least 20 cm.
Vegetables on the balcony: traditional container
Before you start producing vegetables at home, you should take into account one important truth: the root system of cucumbers grown on the balcony is no different from their root system in the garden. Therefore, before you start planting seedlings, you need to make sure that each individual bush has its own container, quite spacious for its root system.
It is best to choose a container with a volume of at least five liters and with sufficient depth.
It is also desirable that the container has some kind of tray (or double bottom) to regularly absorb excess moisture by the roots.
Grafting
There is another interesting method of growing cucumbers at home - the grafting method, the essence of which is to transplant cucumber seedlings into pumpkin ones. What does that require?
Before sowing a large-fruited pumpkin, you should wait until the first leaves appear on the cucumber shoot. Then you will need to wait for the melon shoots.
As soon as the pumpkin leaves reach three centimeters in length, you should start grafting. On a cucumber seedling you will need to make a diagonal cut from bottom to top, while on a pumpkin scion this will need to be done (also diagonally) from top to bottom. Then it is recommended to join both sections as soon as possible and wrap it with foil. After which the root system of the cucumber is transplanted into a pot with a pumpkin and wait two weeks.
After fourteen days, the two shoots should grow together, and then it will be necessary to cut off the top of the pumpkin seedling and the root part of the cucumber seedling. This way we will be left with one plant with strong, almost invulnerable pumpkin roots. Thanks to this, the upper part (cucumber) will be able to receive high-quality nutrition and will bear fruit abundantly until September.
Cucumbers are annual herbaceous plants of the Cucurbitaceae family, a species of the genus Cucumber.
How, when and why will we plant cucumbers in the eco-park garden?
And so that you don’t have to go to the market for cucumbers on Sundays, and your own are always tastier and healthier!
Considerations for growing cucumber seedlings are largely the same as those for growing tomatoes, so I recommend reading the “ Tomatoes ” page first.
I think that you need to plant cucumber seeds for seedlings approximately 14 to 20 days before transplanting into the soil of a mini-greenhouse or greenhouse - this will allow you to bring the day of the first crunch closer by approximately this period. After all, early cucumbers are the most desirable and delicious!
In 2013, cucumbers turned out well at the dacha: every morning my wife collected so many cucumbers that there was enough to eat and salt for the winter.
The cucumber harvest in 2013 amounted to approximately 120 kilograms, although only 11 plants were planted. It turns out that it is quite possible to make money on cucumbers and without any problems if you grow several hundred kilograms and sell them on the market or in other ways.
Cucumbers have a creeping and rough stem that ends with tendrils, with which the stem can catch on a support, due to this the stem can stretch one to two meters.
According to data from Weaver and Bruner, obtained back in 1927, the length of the main root at 2 weeks of age reaches 60 cm, the radius of spread is 90 cm.
The root reaches its maximum development at the age of 40 - 42 days - by this time the cucumber has formed 55 lateral roots.
In this case, the taproot is buried up to 110 cm, but the bulk of the roots are located at a depth of 25 cm, occupying a width of 150 cm. More than 70% of the roots are located at a depth of 5 to 40 cm.
Cucumbers, like other vegetables, contain a lot of fiber, which is not absorbed by the human body, but regulates the functioning of the intestines and removes excess cholesterol from the body, and, as is known, excess cholesterol contributes to the development of atherosclerosis, diseases of the liver, kidneys and other organs.
It must be remembered that all white-thorn varieties of cucumbers are intended only for salads and have thick skin, and black-thorn varieties of cucumbers are intended for pickling or canning.
To avoid putting up trellises, it is enough to plant one corn plant next to each cucumber plant.
Bitterness in cucumbers appears even when the soil dries out for a short time, and then it will no longer be possible to get rid of the bitterness by any means.
To protect the soil from drying out, you should cover the soil surface with herbal mulch and plant friendly plants nearby: peas and cabbage.
Watering cucumbers should be done with warm water in the evenings once every 1-2 days, and the water should be poured onto the surface of the soil, avoiding wetting the leaves to avoid burns.
It is difficult to keep cucumbers fresh, because cucumbers contain up to 95-97% water. Cucumbers can be stored for up to 4 - 5 days if you put them in boxes that are kept in a dark and cool room.
In 2014, I want to try the Aprilsky and Zozulya - they are considered very productive, and also produce strong, tasty fruits for universal use.
Briefly about the main thing
As you can see, growing a cucumber is a very intensive and responsible task, but it is worth it. Let's briefly review the main factors for cultivating this crop.
The most important thing is that cucumber loves light and warmth. It enjoys frequent watering, which is recommended with warm, settled water.
The culture is partial to fertilizing, of which it prefers sodium, phosphorus, potassium and calcium most of all.
Under suitable conditions, cucumber seedlings will be visible within four to six days after sowing. During this period, the root system of the plant acts intensely and intensively, outstripping the upper part of the seedlings in development.
At the very beginning, the appearance of new leaves occurs at intervals of six days, then the time is gradually reduced to one day and even to several hours. During the period of appearance of the first leaf, flower tubercles are formed in the axil of the stem, from which, after fertilization, fruit ovaries begin to appear. Their rapid growth reaches its climax after one to two weeks, when the ripe and juicy cucumber is ready for the initial harvest.
How new roots appear
Cucumber forms feeding roots of the first order:
- from the stem (it is covered with root tubercles);
- from the axillary recesses of the leaves (for this, the first leaf is dropped).
When sowing seeds, the seedling container is filled halfway with soil. Then the soil is periodically added to form new layers of roots.
If the stem of an adult plant is sprinkled with soil and the necessary moisture is provided with watering, new roots will form. The plant renews itself, produces new shoots, and bears fruit longer.
To increase the yield, the lower part of the elongated stem is exposed, the leaves are removed, folded into a ring so that it does not break, sprinkled with soil, and watered.
