How to treat an apple tree against diseases and pests in the spring

A good apple harvest requires special care, but prompt compliance with all the rules cannot guarantee an increase in yield.

An important element is the spring preparation of fruit trees, as a preventive and eradicative spraying, which protects apple trees from possible diseases and harmful insects.

Stages and timing of spring treatment of apple trees from diseases and pests

Spraying apple trees is an important point that allows you not only to protect and increase the future harvest, but also to protect them from various pests. Professional gardeners process gardens in 4 stages, for a number of significant reasons:

• insects that can harm fruit-bearing trees do not wake up at the same time;
• Fungal diseases also appear at different times of the season.

Following these reasons, spraying is carried out in several stages, depending on the condition of the tree. Processing by:

• bare branches;
• dormant kidneys;
• flowering trees;
• to young ovaries as soon as the flowers have fallen off.

For this use:

• fungicides. These are special substances used to combat various plant diseases;
• insecticides. These drugs are used to kill insects.

These substances can be of both chemical and biological origin. The former are very popular among amateur gardeners. The fact is that their active substance begins to act much faster than its biological counterpart. Despite the frightening chemical origin, this is often the only opportunity to quickly act on the pest, which is currently mercilessly destroying the tree. Chemical treatment of apple trees in the spring is completely harmless to humans. During the ripening of the crop, the pesticides used in the preparation for treating trees completely break down into safe microelements and cannot enter the human body.

When using any substance, especially of chemical origin, it is very important to consider the dosage. The fact is that failure to comply with the standards and recommendations in the instructions and on the packaging can lead to burns on young leaves and flowers, which will also lead to loss of harvest.

Biological and folk remedies can only be used in cases where plant diseases are very minor. Their use is relevant when there are a small number of pests on plants or if the affected area is very insignificant.

How to spray apple trees correctly to destroy pathogens and not harm yourself

Finally, let's remember the basic rules of efficiency and safety when working with pesticides. Many gardeners neglect them, although no supernatural efforts are required. Go:

Alternate active ingredients

All living things are very good at adapting to everything. Millions of years of evolution have taught us. So pests quickly develop resistance to poisons, that is, resistance. Therefore, do not use the same remedy to combat them, no matter how effective it may seem.

When choosing a pesticide, pay attention to the active ingredient

There are a dime a dozen drugs on the market, the names and forms of release are different for everyone, but the composition may not differ much. We carefully study the packaging and choose truly different products.

We follow the dosage

It’s like with medicines: the same substance can both cure and poison – it’s all a matter of dose. In order not to harm your plants, read the instructions and act as written.

A cloudy, windless morning (or evening) is the ideal time.

...for garden cultivation. In the sun, droplets of the solution quickly dry out, are washed away by rain, and lose concentration on wet leaves. Therefore, everyone advises spraying preparations either early in the morning (when the dew has dried) or late in the evening (when the sun has gone).

Spray each tree entirely

From the top of the head to the ground. We also spray the tree trunk circle. Otherwise, the effect of our processing will not live up to expectations, or even there will be no use at all.

Caring for bees and other pollinators

Avoid chemicals during flowering. It is difficult to implement this recommendation, since other flowering bushes or flowers often grow next to the apple tree. And already at the budding stage, pollinators are somehow buzzing somewhere nearby. In general, you will have to try hard here.

First stage of processing

Each gardener independently chooses the most convenient moment for the first spraying of the apple orchard. Typically, it should be started in dry, warm weather, when the ambient temperature exceeds +5 °C, there is no snow, but the buds on the branches have not yet swelled.

The first spraying of bare branches of apple trees is necessary to protect the tree from spores of fungal diseases that are actively carried by the wind. The first treatment does not completely destroy all spores, but significantly slows down their development.

Fungal growths are destroyed by the following drugs:

• 3% mixture of lime and copper sulfate. When preparing it, it is important to correctly follow all recommendations and instructions. Otherwise, the mixture will be mixed incorrectly and will not cause any harm to fungal diseases;
• inkstone;
• chorus;
• Urea + copper sulfate.

Preparation of the last mixture requires 5 liters of hot water, 350 g of carbamide (urea), 25 g of copper sulfate (copper sulfate). The use of hot water is due to the fact that it significantly accelerates the dissolution of the ingredients. The finished solution must be filtered and used as a means for spraying the garden. Copper in this solution protects plants from fungal diseases, and urea fertilizes the garden and protects trees. This treatment significantly slows down the flowering process of the garden. It is important to take this point into account - apple trees will bloom a week later than untreated orchards. This development of events allows you to avoid crop loss due to sudden first frosts.

Many gardeners rightfully believe that spraying with copper sulfate can be very dangerous for the human body. Copper-containing preparations are considered dangerous, but treating trees at an early stage, especially when the fruits have not yet set, will not cause harm. During the ripening of the apple harvest, copper is completely washed away, making its use completely safe.

In addition, it is worth considering that in early spring there are no more active ingredients except copper and iron sulfate. In the cold season, the use of biological substances is completely pointless - spraying trees in early spring with biological preparations will not bring any results, since they do not work at low temperatures.

If there are pests

The larvae and eggs of insect pests laid by other insects awaken in the spring and it is difficult to remove them from the territory for hours. Apple trees are often damaged by polypores and ants, and mosses and lichens settle on the trunks. To combat each of these unwanted garden guests, a specific approach is required. Read about the characteristics of the Anzur onion variety at this link.

Polypores

Polypores come in many varieties, each of which is destructive to trees. The mycelium is distributed deep in the wood, and the appearance of its external body (cap or hoof) indicates that the apple tree can no longer be saved. If such a formation appears on the branches, cut it off along with the wood, and treat the cut area with iron sulfate.

For prevention purposes, it is always necessary to seal cracks in the bark, cuts and frost-sunburns with garden varnish. Also, every spring trees need to be treated with iron sulfate or 3% Bordeaux mixture. The procedures are carried out until the kidneys appear.

Ants

These insects are harmful because they gnaw on the buds and buds of apple trees, and also spread aphids into the trees. Most anti-ant remedies are folk remedies. The most well-known methods involve coating tree trunks with tar or garlic arrows, which repel insects. It is also recommended to water the settlements of these pests with chemical insecticides. The following mixture is also poured into the anthills: 2 cups of sunflower oil, the same amount of regular shampoo and vinegar, mixed in 10 liters of cold water.

Mosses and lichens

Mosses and lichens that settle on the trunks and roots of garden trees take away the necessary moisture from them and slow down the development phases. To get rid of such a neighborhood, it is necessary to take the necessary measures in a timely manner. The most effective control of lichens and moss is considered to be in the first stage of treatment, before buds open. For these purposes, a 5% solution of iron sulfate is used. You can prepare it as follows: dissolve 500 mg of the substance in 10 liters of water. Bordeaux mixture also helps, with a concentration of no more than 3 percent.

Second stage of processing

Subsequent processing of apple trees occurs at a later date, when the air temperature is in the region of + 10 ... + 15 ° C.

After the first treatment, approximately 2 weeks pass. The buds on the trees begin to actively swell, but this is also the time when harmful insects begin to become active. The second spraying will not only fight fungal diseases, but will also stop insects on their way to the sweet flowering buds. That is why a mixture of fungicides (preparations for killing fungal diseases) and insecticides used to combat harmful insects is used.

The most dangerous enemy for a flowering apple tree is the apple blossom beetle. It penetrates into the middle of a flower that has not yet blossomed and lays eggs in it. The hatched larvae seal the flower petals with a special adhesive mass, live inside and feed on the sweet juices of the plant. It is impossible to get rid of them until they themselves get out of their safe hiding place. Flowers in which the pest has settled, of course, will not bear any harvest; they look dry and blackened.

The flower beetle can be destroyed using any insecticides and their mixtures with fungicides:

• Fufanon;
• Decis;
• Spark;
• Intavir;
• Tanrek;
• 1% Bordeaux mixture (the solution must be 1%. A high concentration can burn young buds, which will have a very negative impact on the condition of the entire tree);
• Horus + Decis (Karbofos, Aktara).

Folk remedies for spraying

Some conservative gardeners are wary of chemical and biological compounds because they are afraid that their components will harm the body. In such cases, the optimal solution would be to spray using traditional methods that have been tested by one generation of gardeners. As a rule, such recipes include accessible components available on any farm.

These methods can be used not only in spring, but throughout the entire growing season.

Decoction of bitter wormwood

This composition helps to cope with the codling moth and flower beetle. It should be sprayed during flowering, after which the procedure is repeated weekly. Preparation proceeds as follows:

• Grind freshly cut or already dried wormwood;
• Mix 300-500 grams of grass with 10 liters of water, leave in a dark place for a day;
• after 24 hours, place the infusion on the fire and boil for 30-40 minutes;
• cool the liquid, filter;
• add 50-70 grams of grated laundry soap.

Bulb onions

An infusion or decoction of onion peels rids the garden of aphids, codling moths and copperheads. The first time it is used immediately after the garden has finished flowering, after which spraying is repeated every week for 1 - 1.5 months. You can prepare the product in two ways:

• 200 grams of onion peels are poured with 10 liters of hot, but not boiling water, after which the liquid is allowed to brew for 5-6 days;
• fill the bucket with husks to half its volume, pour boiling water over it. Leave the liquid for a day in a dark, warm place, strain and remove the husks from the broth. Dilute the liquid with water in a ratio of 1:2.

Find out about the characteristics and description of the Red Onion variety here.

To increase the effectiveness of this method, spray in the evening, provided that the air temperature is above 15 degrees.

Hunting belts

This is a simple mechanical method of getting rid of insect pests (aphids, flower beetles), absolutely safe for plants and the environment. As catching belts, sticky trap tapes, bandages impregnated with resin or other adhesive substance, made of durable non-absorbent materials are used. Belts are usually applied at the second stage of treatment, when flowering is in full force. The belt is placed parallel to the ground line at a height of 1-1.5 meters from the base of the trunk. You can make several traps on one tree, placing them at intervals of 30-40 cm. Find out about planting and caring for the Marble pear variety in this article.

Garlic tincture

The pungent smell of garlic allows you to scare away unwanted guests from your site. It is only important to ensure that the coating on the trunks is regularly updated, for which purpose this kind of treatment is carried out every 4-5 days. To prepare the tincture, take 500 grams of fresh garlic, fill it with 2 liters of water. Let it brew for 5-6 hours, and then strain through cloth or gauze. Add water to the liquid to a volume of 10 liters.

Third treatment

This stage is also called “By the rose bud”. This treatment is aimed at combating the voracious codling moth.

The fact is that this insect actively lays eggs near or on an unopened bud. Penetrating inside the flower, the codling moth larva actively destroys the future harvest, which is noticeable only in the fall, at the time of harvest. In order not to be left without apples, you should apply a mixture of solutions of fungicides and insecticides to the buds when they have already appeared, but have not yet blossomed.

When spraying, you should not save the solution - it is applied not only to the branches, but also to the ground around the trunk, within a radius of 1 meter. It is also worth paying attention to other fruit-bearing trees and bushes located near the apple tree.

Insects can very quickly move from them to the branches of the apple tree, which will also negatively affect the future harvest. It is important to take into account the fact that at a sufficiently high temperature outside, many biological preparations, such as Fitoverm and Phytoxibacillin, lose their properties at temperatures above +10 °C.

Types of drugs

There are several types of products intended for processing garden crops. They all differ in purpose, dosage and time of use.

Mr. Summer resident warns: features of processing adult (old) and young apple trees

Of course, an adult fruit-bearing tree must be sprayed according to all the rules, in 4 stages in the spring. Young seedlings that have not yet fruited or bloomed require much less processing. Such plants do not yet actively attract harmful insects, which makes the gardener’s work much easier. For such apple trees, only three stages will be sufficient, which include processing:

• along bare branches;
• along the green cone;
• after flowering.

Tips for treating apple trees in spring

Before directly spraying apple trees and preparing the solution, you should know several key points:

1. Copper sulfate does not interact well with iron, so you should not use iron objects when preparing the solution. Plastic and wooden sticks are best for mixing, and the solution is best stored in a glass container.
2. It is impossible to completely destroy all pests. When processing according to the “green cone”, there is a possibility that many pests sleeping in the tree bark will remain alive and, after awakening, will continue to cause harm to the apple orchard. Therefore, it is necessary to re-treat with substances of lower concentration after the leaves have blossomed.
3. When mixing iron sulfate, it is important to remember that it tends to oxidize quite quickly. Therefore, in order to preserve all the beneficial properties, a small amount of citric acid must be added to the solution.
4. When processing your apple orchard, don’t forget about your own protection! It is important that the spray solution does not come into contact with the mucous membranes of the nose, eyes and mouth. In case of contact, rinse the skin with running water and consult a doctor.