How to treat berry bushes in early spring - protection from diseases and pests

Do you want to achieve abundant fruiting from your berry bushes? Be the first to meet them halfway - in early spring, help the plants protect themselves from diseases and pests. We will tell you about the weak points of each culture and tell you how to deal with the problem.

As soon as the snow melts, remove all plant debris from the tree trunks of the berry bushes and thoroughly loosen the soil to a depth of 5-7 cm. Cut out all dried and damaged shoots, and then remove thickening branches - the crown of the bushes should be well ventilated and illuminated by the sun.

Burn plant debris and cut branches, and carefully inspect the remaining shoots. If you find suspicious growths, swellings, or a scattering of small “beads” on the tops of branches, immediately remove such “decorations” - these are wintering and egg-laying sites for pests. Cut out branches with numerous marks or swellings at the base completely. After such sanitary work, arm yourself with a sprayer and treat the shrubs with a suitable fungicide or insecticide.

Currant processing

Before the buds open, treat with a solution of HOM, Topaz, Gamair or Alirin-B - this will protect the currants from anthracnose, rust and powdery mildew.

If last season the currants were attacked by the moth, immediately after the snow melts, cover the tree trunk circles with a thick film - the overwintered larvae will not be able to reach the tasty shoots and will die. An additional measure is to treat the bushes before flowering with Kinmiks or Fufanon-Nova.

The same insecticides will be effective in protecting currants from aphids – both shoot and gall aphids. Spray earlier - when the buds just begin to bloom. An alternative option is a solution of Fitoverm, Biotlin, Insector, Aliot, Taran or Fufanon-Nova.

Swollen buds on the branches, similar to miniature heads of cabbage, are a signal of the presence of a bud mite. Remove the disfigured buds and during the budding period, treat the berry with Aliot solution.

• Scheme for treating currants from diseases and pests from spring to autumn

  In order not to lose the currant harvest, you need to promptly protect the bushes from diseases and pests.

Processing times

Preventive work against the spread of dangerous insects and diseases in the garden begins as early as possible. The optimal time for the first treatment is when the buds have not yet opened, but the air temperature during the day no longer drops below +5 °C (from mid-March to mid-April). It is recommended to pour gooseberry and currant bushes with hot water or spray them with fungicidal preparations.

The next procedure is carried out after flowering, this time using preparations of biological origin or chemical agents. The third treatment is planned for mid-autumn, 2-3 weeks after harvest (fungicides are also used).

Folk preventive remedies are used throughout the growing season with an interval between treatments of 1 to 3 weeks, depending on the condition of the plants.

Gooseberry processing

Gooseberries often suffer from powdery mildew - reduce the risk of the disease. Before the buds open, spray the bushes with a 3% solution of copper sulfate or a 5% solution of iron sulfate. As an option - a solution of Topaz, Skor or Gamaira. Repeat the procedure before flowering, using Thiovit Jet or Alirin-B, or use a solution of soda ash (50 g per 10 liters of water).

If the gooseberry has been chosen by the moth, follow the same procedures as for currants. Spraying with Aliot, Kinmiks, Inta-Ts-M or Karbotsin will also protect the “northern grapes” from the machinations of sawflies, scale insects and glassworts.

• Effective folk remedies for diseases and pests of currants and gooseberries

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Pests of gooseberries and currants and their control

Sometimes, even if all agrotechnical rules are followed, larvae or adult insects appear on plants. Let's consider how to treat gooseberry and currant bushes in the spring against pests.

Mole

Moths damage gooseberries, red, white, and black currants. The insect is small, looks like a small butterfly, it is difficult to see a moth with the naked eye. Depending on the variety, it can be black, yellow, or brown. The caterpillars are frost-resistant, overwinter in the ground, and come out with the arrival of spring.

Both larvae and adults pose a danger. The moth becomes active during flowering and attacks leaves and shoots, causing fruit to set poorly. The leaves curl and wilt and the plant looks sick. If measures are not taken in time, the moth will destroy up to 50% of all buds.

For preventive purposes, summer residents carry out autumn pruning of gooseberries and currants, remove dry branches and leaves, and thin out the crown of the bush. During the swelling period, plants are treated with Fufanon. It is also recommended to pay attention to complex fertilizers and regularly remove weeds.

Aphid

A flying small insect of white or pink color lives in flocks. One colony of aphids contains up to 1000 individuals, so it is difficult to get rid of them. More than 400 species of aphids are known. The most dangerous for currants and gooseberries is gall, or gooseberry.

The pest survives by sucking sap from shoots and leaves. The latter curl, the crown dries out and loses its shape. Aphids prefer young shoots, so they can most often be seen on one- or two-year-old shrubs.

For control, spraying with a solution of copper oxychloride or 0.3% Karbofos is used. It is recommended to alternate chemical treatments with folk remedies - the bushes are watered with an infusion of flowering wormwood (0.5 buckets of herb are required for 10 liters of water).

Attention! Suitable conditions for the development of aphids are dense shoots and leaves where sunlight does not penetrate. It is important to regularly thin out and rejuvenate shrubs. The procedure is carried out every season, even if there are no pests.

Ognevka

The moth is a type of butterfly, the length of the body is no more than 3 cm. The moth is easily recognized by the characteristic color of the wings - gray with brown spots, the edges are covered with fringe. Butterfly caterpillars are small, green, with a black head.

Characteristic signs of the appearance of the moth are cobwebs, holes are noticed on the berries, and the fruits change color. Moths feed on the juice of gooseberries and currants; one pest is capable of sucking the juice from 15 berries. For preventive protective purposes, gardeners use spraying with chamomile solution (50 g per 5 liters of hot water). The shrub is treated before and after flowering.

Also used for treatment are systemic insecticides - “Iskra” or “Topaz”. The soil is cultivated in early spring and the row spacing is covered with polyethylene. This method destroys not only moths, but also the larvae of other pests.

Spider mite

Spider mites
Spider mites appear in the garden in early spring, feeding on plant sap. It is easy to recognize by the thin web that the insect leaves behind. But it is difficult to see the mite itself or the larvae - it is very small, the length does not exceed 0.5 cm. If measures are not taken in time, the shoots and leaves dry out and lose color, becoming painful and weak.

Spider mites are frost-resistant and overwinter in the soil or axils of fallen leaves. A favorable environment for the spread of the pest is weeds and the remains of last year's plants. To combat spider mites, use tobacco or wormwood solution, as well as decoctions of garlic, onions, potato or tomato tops. Among the chemical methods, treatment with fungicides “Medea” or “Titul” is used.

Attention! Fungicides are divided into single- and multicomponent, contact and systemic. When using fungicides, it is important to observe personal safety rules. The treatment is carried out wearing gloves, a respirator and safety glasses. Fungicides should not be used 2 weeks before harvest; it is better to give preference to traditional methods of control.

Glassware

Of all the varieties of pests, currant glass is a threat to gooseberries and currants. This is a butterfly that resembles a wasp in appearance: the body is fluffy, the color is striped, yellow and black. Glasswort lives mainly on old shrubs that are not regularly cared for.

The insect feeds on shoots, lays eggs in them and reproduces there. To protect plants from glass, it is important to regularly trim and shape the bush, remove old and diseased shoots, and burn them away from the garden plot. After flowering, the bushes are treated with Iskra-M or Kemifos. Each bush requires about 1.5 liters.

Sawfly

The gooseberry sawfly is dangerous for currants and gooseberries. The pest is widespread throughout the regions of the country. The length of the beetle is 2-3 cm, the color is brown. It eats the leaves of the plant, leaving only thin veins. After a few days, the bush begins to dry out, the fruits lose their shape and elasticity and fall to the ground.

There are several reasons why sawflies appear: contaminated soil, weeds and debris, heavy or acidic soil. In the tree trunks of the plants, the soil is regularly loosened and mulched. In the fall, they begin to fight the pest: they dig up the ground and treat it with fungicides. In spring, gooseberries and currants are sprayed with Iskra or the contact insecticide Metaphos. Affected areas of shrubs are removed and burned.

Moth

A large butterfly with yellow-white wings and a black pattern appears in the garden in the second ten days of June. Females lay eggs between the veins of leaves; one individual can lay up to 300 eggs. During bud break, young insects appear on leaves and shoots, eat them and draw out juices. Because of this, the bushes dry out, the crown loses its shape, and the branches weaken.

In addition to gooseberries and currants, the moth appears on pear, apple, apricot, and cherry trees. The insect is destroyed with the Kantor fungicide. Among the folk remedies, summer residents use spraying with tobacco solution or infusion of nettle and wormwood.

Gallica

The damage is caused not by adult insects, but by larvae. Gall midge is common not only in Russia, but also in European countries. There are more than 6 thousand varieties. The currant gall midge, a small yellow-brown winged insect, is dangerous for gooseberries and currants. Externally, the pest resembles a mosquito and has the same antennae.

The gall midge loves young plants and can reduce yields by 70%. The plantings are treated immediately after detection with the drug “Kemifos”. It is dangerous for both larvae and adults. Root feeding with a mixture of ash and sand also helps get rid of gall midges.

Attention! To prevent the appearance of gall midges, gooseberries and currants are treated with herbal infusion three times a year. Tansy, chamomile, yarrow, and calendula are used for preparation. 300 g of crushed flowers and leaves are poured into 10 liters of boiling water. Leave for 24 hours and begin processing.

Raspberry processing

To prevent spotting, anthracnose and rust, spray the bushes before buds open with a solution of HOM, Agrolekar, Topaz, Baktofit or Alirin-B.

If the raspberry is damaged by stem gall midge, immediately after the snow melts, cut out all the affected shoots, and then generously moisten the soil and remaining branches with Fufanon-Nova solution. After the plants bloom, repeat the treatment.

The second treatment, in addition to the gall midge, will repel the attack of the stem fly, raspberry beetle and strawberry-raspberry weevil. Another option is Alatar, Iskra, Taran or Fitoverm.

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Treatment of berry bushes from pests

First of all, the bushes should be prepared for the upcoming procedure. Regardless of what preparations you use to treat the plant, you must first perform the following manipulations with it:

1. Delete all old branches.
2. Trim dead, dry, damaged and diseased branches and leaves.
3. Trim shoots that will no longer bloom.

To treat fruit bushes, one type of preparation is used or tank mixtures are used - universal agents.

The use of means of different types of action contributes to a more comprehensive solution to the problem. Do not forget that timely application of fertilizing significantly enhances the immune system, and therefore the crop’s resistance to disease and its resistance to pests.

Important! When preparing tank mixtures, it is necessary to take into account their compatibility.
If, when preparing a protective product, you observe a chemical reaction (the release of heat or gases, active seething, etc.) or the formation of sediment, treatment with such a solution will not have the desired effect, but can cause harm. Treatment of plants with fungicides and insecticides can be of the following types:

• preventive, to prevent disease outbreaks and pest attacks;
• therapeutic, the main purpose of which is the destruction of pathogens, insects and arachnids;
• spot treatment, in which only the part of the bush affected by the disease is treated.

An approximate schedule for spraying currants and gooseberries (if there are no separate instructions) is as follows:

1. Before the active movement of juice begins. It is aimed at eliminating pathogenic bacteria remaining from the fall that managed to overwinter in closed plant cavities.
2. Before the buds begin to form. The main goal is to destroy parasites that are just beginning to become active after winter.
3. After the crop has flowered. It is carried out for the normal development of berries, providing them with favorable growth conditions. The first procedure is 10 days after the fruits begin to form, the second procedure is after another 10 days. The fixing, third spraying is performed at the same time interval.

Fungicides

Fungicides are used for the prevention and treatment of fungal diseases. Such diseases include powdery mildew, anthracnose, white and purple spots, goblet and columnar rust, drying out of shoots, gray rot, etc.

Find out how to spray currants with Topaz.

The table below shows the means of combating diseases caused by fungi, their dosage and processing features.

Insecticides

Insecticides are preparations for controlling insect pests; acaricides are intended to destroy mites that belong to the Arachnida family. Most of the drugs listed below are effective against both insects and ticks, being, in fact, insectoacaricides.

Important! All biological products must be used within two hours after preparation, otherwise they will lose their effectiveness.

Biological products

Biological drugs have a milder effect than chemical agents. This circumstance is, on the one hand, their advantage, and on the other, a disadvantage. Due to the fact that such products do not have a strong toxic effect, they can be used with the least precautions.

It is acceptable to use biological products shortly and even during the fruiting period. But due to the mildness of the effects of biological agents, they are effective only in the early stages of the disease.

Biological products can be bacterial (the main effect is due to microorganisms and their metabolic products) and fungal (they act due to fungal spores).

Biological products can be bacterial (the main effect is due to microorganisms and their metabolic products) and fungal (they act due to fungal spores).

According to intended use they are divided into:

• biofungicides (against fungal diseases);
• bioinsecticides/bioacaricides/bioinsectoacaricides (against insects and arachnids).

Traditional methods

There are quite a large number of folk methods for treating diseases of fruit bushes, as well as getting rid of pests. Below we will talk about the most popular means that have proven their effectiveness.

Read: baking soda for a bountiful blackcurrant harvest.

Baking soda . Treatment of fruit crops with a soda solution against powdery mildew. Prepare the solution as follows:

1. Dissolve 2 tbsp in two liters of water. l. soda and 1 tbsp. l. any liquid detergent (for dishes, etc.).
2. The resulting solution is used to treat the plants once every 7–10 days before sunrise or after sunset until the fungus is completely destroyed.

Iodine solution. Spraying with this product shows good results in the fight against fruit rot and aphids. The solution against fruit rot is prepared as follows:

1. Dissolve 10 ml of iodine (5%) in 10 liters of water.
2. Spraying of plantings is carried out every 20 days.

A remedy for combating aphids is done as follows:

1. Mix 100 ml of warm milk, 0.5 ml of iodine and 1 liter of water.
2. Spray the plantings every 10 days.

Boiling water . Using this product, insect larvae and fungal spores are destroyed. Treatment with boiling water is used only during the dormant period of the plant - before active sap flow begins in the spring or autumn after the leaves have been shed. It is necessary to scald each stem with boiling water.

Important! The temperature of the water used for watering plants should not exceed 80

°
C. On average, one bucket of boiling water is needed per bush.
Ammonia . Spraying with the drug is carried out to destroy aphids. The procedure is performed in the following order:

1. Mix 50 ml of ammonia and 50 g of grated laundry soap (72%) with 10 liters of water.
2. Spray the plantings once during the growing season.

Garlic water. Spraying the leaves or fruits of garlic with an infusion helps expel mites and aphids from plants.

Prepare the solution as follows:

1. Chop garlic cloves (400 g) and stir in one bucket of water.
2. Chop 100 g of green garlic leaves, pour into a bucket of water and garlic cloves, and let steep for two days.
3. After the specified time, strain the infusion and spray it on the gooseberry and currant plantings.

Find out how to process currants in the fall.

Infusion of tobacco. Most pests do not tolerate nicotine solution. Prepare the product as follows:

1. Pour tobacco dust (0.4 kg) into 10 liters of warm water and mix.
2. Let it brew for 50–55 hours, strain.
3. Before spraying, the solution is diluted with water in equal parts, detergent is added (1 tbsp. / 1 ​​liter of the finished product).
4. Spraying is carried out starting in early spring, once a week.

Infusion of celandine. The acids and alkaloids contained in the plant can effectively fight against most pests.

Prepare the infusion this way:

1. Dig up 4 celandine bushes by the roots during the flowering period.
2. Finely chop the plant, add 10 liters of water, let it brew for 1/2 hour.
3. After the infusion turns dark orange, it can be used.

Mustard infusion. In addition to the fact that the product is effective against many pests, it can prevent the development of certain diseases in the early stages (powdery mildew, rust, spotting).

Preparation of the infusion:

1. Dissolve mustard powder (100 g) in 10 liters of boiling water. Let it brew for a day.
2. Before use, dilute in equal parts with soapy water.

Green soap. The product is prepared from potassium salt, fats of plant and animal origin and water. Green soap is quite effective against aphids, mites, and sawflies. Works well as a preventative against powdery mildew and rust.

Important! Green soap consolidates the effect of insecticides previously used to kill pests.

As a result of treatment with the product, a film is formed on the surface of the sheet plate. This film prevents fungal spores from penetrating the leaf and also makes it difficult for pests to survive. Green soap can be used mixed with mustard or tobacco powder.

Infusion of ash. Ash is a valuable potassium-phosphorus supplement; in addition, it can suppress the activity of pests. The fact is that an aqueous solution of ash is an alkali, which aphids, moths, and sawflies cannot tolerate. It is also effective for preventing powdery mildew.

Prepare the infusion as follows:

1. Dissolve 0.4 kg of sifted ash in one bucket of water (+65…+75°C).
2. Leave the solution for 50–55 hours, add 2–3 tbsp to the solution bucket. l. detergent.
3. Thoroughly spray the bushes from all sides. You can add mustard powder or tobacco dust to the infusion.

A universal remedy against most pests and fungal diseases. To prepare the solution you will need the following ingredients:

• birch tar - 30 ml (one bottle);
• fir oil - 30 ml;
• ammonia - 30 ml;
• iodine solution (5%) - 25 ml;
• boric acid - 10 g;
• warm water - 5 l.

Video: mixture against diseases and pests

To treat gooseberries, black and red currants, and other garden shrubs, you need to mix all the ingredients and spray the plantings.

Blackberry processing

When treating raspberries with a fungicide solution in early spring, go over the blackberry bushes with a sprayer - these “sister” crops suffer from similar fungal ailments. If the blackberry crop was spoiled by gray rot last season, treatment alone will not be enough. To obtain an environmentally friendly harvest during the budding period, before flowering and immediately after it, spray the bushes with a solution of Fitosporin.

Treatment of blackberries during the budding period with a solution of Aliot or Fufanon-Nova will not interfere - these insecticides will protect the berry from a complex of pests.

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How to treat currants with copper sulfate

To disinfect the root system and crown of currants, treatment with copper sulfate is carried out in early spring. The soil under the bushes is sprayed with a preventive solution. First, you should remove all last year's foliage from under the bush and repair damage to the branches with garden varnish.

Bordeaux mixture is prepared using copper sulfate, which also contains lime. Such a solution can harm the larvae and eggs of pests, corroding them.

When preparing the mixture yourself, you should strictly adhere to the proportions, otherwise the currant bushes may be damaged.

For treatment carried out before bud break, you will need a 3% mixture:

1. Both components, vitriol and lime, are diluted in different containers (glass or plastic).
2. The copper sulfate solution is poured into the lime solution.
3. After mixing, the composition is filtered.

The average consumption per currant bush is 1.5 liters of solution. Currants are treated with Bordeaux mixture using one of three types of sprayer:

• mechanical - air is pumped into the tank manually using a hand pump;
• electric – pressure is created automatically by an electric motor;
• gasoline engines - operate on the basis of an internal combustion engine.

For small areas, mechanical is quite sufficient; large areas of currants require electric and gasoline-powered devices.

When spraying, you must ensure that the soil and parts of plants are covered evenly with the solution.

Important! Mixing the solution with pesticides is unacceptable.

Pest and disease control is effective if carried out annually and regularly.

Grape processing

After trimming and securing the grape vines to the trellis, carefully treat the bushes with a 3% solution of copper sulfate or a 5% solution of iron sulfate - carry out this procedure until the buds open. After a couple of weeks, spray the plants with a solution of Thiovit Jet, Horus, Thanos, Medea, Discor or Profit Gold. Such therapy will be a reliable prevention of mildew, oidium and Phomopsis.

To protect the bushes from phylloxera, spray with Movento Energy during bud break, and after a couple of weeks, treat the grapes with Fufanon-Nova.

To repel the invasion of grape mites, treat the plantings when the buds open and 2-3 more times with an interval of 7-10 days.

If last season the grapes were pestered by leaf rollers, take Aliot, Shar Pei, Coragen as assistants, and from biological products - Bitoxibacillin or Fitoverm. Carry out the treatment during the period of bud swelling, in the phase of 5-7 leaves and before flowering, each time choosing a new product.

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Trimming

Currant bushes are pruned at an air temperature of no more than 80 C, before sap begins to flow and the buds awaken.

The pruning scheme depends on the age of the bush:

• The bush planted last year is pruned, shortening the shoots in the middle, leaving 2-3 well-developed buds on each of them;
• In 2-year-old plants, shoots of the 2nd order are shortened, leaving at least 6-8 healthy buds on each of them;
• In 3-year-old bushes, all perennial shoots are shortened by 1/3 of their length; last year’s one-year growth is not cut off;
• On fruit-bearing bushes, starting from the 4th year, old shoots are gradually removed and the tops of young branches are cut off.

When pruning bushes of any age, the following shoots must be removed:

• Weakened and damaged by frost, rodents;
• Broken by wind or snow;
• Infected with kidney mite;
• Located at an angle of less than 45° to the soil surface;
• Thickening the center of the bush.

All such shoots are removed with pruning shears at soil level.

Important! Healthy shoots removed during pruning can be used as cuttings to produce new currant bushes.

A correctly formed bush when pruned should consist of 5-10 strong, erect or slightly inclined shoots.

Gooseberry bushes are pruned in the spring according to the following scheme:

• Remove all thickening bushes, frost-damaged, broken one-year-old (zero) shoots, leaving 3-5 of them the strongest and most developed;
• Of the remaining zero shoots, only the tops are removed;
• On bushes 4-7 years old, old and unproductive shoots are removed.

Honeysuckle processing

Edible honeysuckle can already suffer from ramulariasis, cercospora blight, tuberculiasis and powdery mildew already in the spring. To prevent the spores of these fungal infections from surviving, treat the bushes with a 3% solution of copper sulfate, HOM, Skor or Fitosporin in early spring before the buds open.

If honeysuckle is attacked by mites, prepare a solution of Fufanon-Nova or Aliot - these drugs will be needed during the period of bud swelling and before flowering. Such an event will help protect honeysuckle from other annoying pests: roseate leaf roller, honeysuckle aphid, fingerwing and scale insects.

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Terms of spring processing

At the end of winter, when the cold weather weakens and the temperature drops to around 0°, the first inspection begins. During this process, everything old and dry is removed - leaves on the ground and branches on the bush. Living old branches are also pruned, doing all this before active sap flow begins (before the leaves bloom). For pruning, use pruning shears.

Note: the tool must be well sharpened and cut easily, without “chewing” branches.

In addition to diseased and dry ones, branches whose fruiting has begun to decline must be removed. As a rule, these are shoots aged from 3 to 5 years or more. Also, shoots are cut out, the direction of growth of which is inside the bush. They are cut close to the soil so as not to leave stumps.

For a high yield, it is important to rejuvenate the branches in a timely manner and prevent the bushes from thickening. The evaluation criterion will be the following: the base of the plant must be well ventilated.

The subsequent inspection is repeated after a week, when the treatment is carried out with hot water. After a few more days, the bush is sprayed.

Sea buckthorn processing

To protect bushes from spotting, scab and fruit rot, before buds open, treat with a 3% solution of copper sulfate or a 5% solution of iron sulfate. Secure the effect with another treatment carried out before flowering - use a solution of Agrolekar, Fitosporin or Gamaira.

To repel the attack of the sea buckthorn honeydew, sorrel bug, leaf roller and aphid, during the period of swelling of the buds, thoroughly moisten the above-ground part of the plants with a solution of Fufanon-Nova, Iskra Double Effect or Kinmiks. As an option - Bitoxibacillin or Fitoverm.

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Lack of nitrogen in currants and gooseberries

When yellow leaves begin to appear on the bush, healthy plants should have a dark green color. As a rule, this becomes noticeable in early summer or late spring. If there is a large amount of light foliage on the bush, the plant signals an insufficient amount of nitrogen received. In this case, young bushes must be fertilized with a solution of ammonium nitrate, and adult plants with a composition containing potassium, phosphorus and organic matter. The fact is that young planted plants do not bear fruit in the first year and they only need to be provided with the right environment for rooting, and adult plants also need to be provided with microelements for a high-quality harvest.

Viburnum processing

Before the buds open, spray the viburnum with a 3% solution of copper sulfate, HOM or Skor to protect against spotting. If the plant suffers from fruit rot, strengthen its immunity with Horus solution before flowering.

Young shoots of viburnum are a favorite delicacy of black aphids. To protect against the pest, treat the plant before buds bloom with a solution of Aktara, Fufanon-Nova, Iskra, Inta-Vira or Fitoverm. This procedure will also reduce the population of the viburnum leaf beetle and viburnum leaf roller.

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Spring feeding of currants and gooseberries

If, when planting a young bush, the soil was well-filled with fertilizers, then in the spring there is no need for this stage. Other cases require the addition of nutrients through mulching.

Fertilize gooseberries immediately after the snow melts; during this period, the ground is sufficiently moist and the roots of the bushes will be able to perfectly absorb all the nutrients. If the bushes are young enough, then pour a couple of tablespoons of nitrophoska and a glass of wood ash under each of them; for adults - twice as much. If there is manure on the farm, cover each bush in a circle with a layer of several centimeters; this can be done without waiting for the snow to completely melt. Remember, gooseberries under three years old do not need feeding (especially if a sufficient amount of fertilizer was added to the soil when planting it).

The amount of currant harvest depends on the variety and care of the bushes

Feeding is especially important. Two-year-old bushes and younger do not need feeding, which cannot be said about three-year-old bushes and older.

With a lack of nutrients, currant leaves develop slowly, do not reach large sizes and have a weaker color (light green). If in the previous year you noticed similar signs on the bushes, then be sure to feed them in the spring: add either 10 grams of urea or 15 grams of ammonium nitrate per square meter. You can replace the above-described fertilizing with a solution of manure mixed with water in a ratio of 1 to 8, mullein (1:5), bird droppings (1:10/12). It is very important after preparing the solution to let it sit for a couple of days, and then water the currants at the rate of one bucket per 3-4 bushes.

Aronia processing

Chokeberry is disease resistant, but under unfavorable conditions it can suffer from rust, powdery mildew or spotting. If such a problem happens to your chokeberry, before the buds open, spray it with a 3% solution of copper sulfate, HOM, Ordan or Fitosporin.

If scale insects have settled on the chokeberry or the plant is being harmed by spider moths, treat with a solution of Aliot, Iskra, Fufanon-Nova or Bitoxibacillin before the buds open. The same preparations will be useful for protecting chokeberry from sawfly and weevil, but spraying should be postponed until the budding period.

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Diseases and pests dangerous to gooseberries

Gooseberries are susceptible to the following diseases:

• American powdery mildew;
• scab;
• gooseberry anthracnose;
• white spot or septoria;
• glass rust;
• gray rot;
• verticillium wilt;
• gooseberry mosaic;
• lichen.

Spraying gooseberries

Insects that harm gooseberries:

• sawfly (sawyer);
• gooseberry moth;
• scale insect;
• shoot aphid;
• gooseberry moth;
• spider mite;
• currant bud mite;
• currant glass;
• currant gall midge.

Blueberry processing

To prevent anthracnose, spotting, powdery mildew, gray and fruit rot, treat the bushes with a solution of HOM or Abiga-Pika before buds open. Among biofungicides, Gamair, Fitolavin, Fitosporin or Baktofit will be useful.

If a bud mite “celebrates a housewarming” on blueberry bushes, Aliot’s solution will help. Apply the treatment when the buds are swelling and again during the budding period of the plants.

To repel the attack of leaf rollers, flower beetles, tubeworms and aphids, during the period of swelling of the buds, spray the plants with Fufanon-Nova, Insektor or Inta-Vir. Repeat the procedure before flowering, applying Actara or Fitoverm.

• Memo: Calendar for caring for garden blueberries from spring to autumn

  To grow blueberries in the country, you will need a calendar reminder indicating the work required to care for this crop.

The range of modern fungicides and insecticides is so wide that you will not have any difficulties choosing the right product. The main thing is not to miss the optimal timing for spring processing - the berry growers will not be in debt.

Watering

With a dry spring and little snow in the winter, the bushes in the early stages of growth and development are in dire need of moisture. To do this, they must be watered during the spring. In such cases, watering is carried out at least 2 times a week. In order to reduce evaporation, water the plants in the morning or late evening. An average of 10 liters of water is consumed per bush at a time.

Important! For irrigation, it is better to use warm rain or settled tap water. Water the plants at the root using a watering can with a splitter spout (rain). This is necessary so that drops do not fall on leaves and shoots and do not cause burns in bright sunlight.

Standard pruning of black currants

After all the preparatory pruning has been carried out, they begin the annual pruning of black currant bushes in order to load the bush.

The loading of the black currant bush is carried out in parallel with sanitary pruning. In young 2-3 year old bushes, 3-4 young well-developed shoots are left, the rest are cut into a ring near the ground. The stems are cut so that an impromptu circle or quadrangle is formed with approximately equal distances from each other. There is no need to leave young shoots inside this circle/square. The wider the base, the lighter the blackcurrant bush and the greater the berry set.

Every year the blackcurrant bush is replenished with 3-4 basal annual shoots. By the age of five, the bush will have 8-12 strong fruiting shoots. There may be more of them if the base of the bush has a large diameter. The distance between blackcurrant shoots is 8-12-15 cm. Second-order shoots are practically left untouched. They can be shortened if the growth of the previous year is equal to or exceeds 40-45 cm.

The most active period for the formation of the black currant harvest is 5-7 years, then the fruiting of aging and old branches decreases. When the bush is under load in March, these branches are pruned first. Old 8-9 year old bushes are uprooted and replaced with young ones, gradually moving the berry garden to a new location. You can replace the uprooting of black currants with rejuvenation, which is more practical to do in the spring before the buds wake up (March). During rejuvenation, all shoots are cut into a ring and a bush is formed from new young ones.

Spring care

Currants come out of hibernation early, so you need to start caring for them immediately after the snow melts before the buds open.

Treatment of currants in spring against pests and diseases

It is advisable to immediately give the currant and gooseberry bushes a hot shower, which will warm them up and save them from bud mite attacks. This pest greatly annoys currants, weakens them, which sometimes leads to their withering. Another scary thing is that the bud mite carries terry, which is almost impossible to cure and you have to remove the bush. Swollen buds need to be cut out.

The most common crop diseases are: anthracnose, powdery mildew, blight, and goblet rust. For prevention, you need to treat the bushes before buds open with solutions of the following drugs:

• copper sulfate helps cope with fungal diseases;
• copper oxychloride effectively destroys spotting, anthractic blight, and rust in the initial period;
• Bordeaux mixture can destroy almost all fungal diseases. Remember that the cooking process must follow the instructions exactly;
• “topaz” helps to cope with powdery mildew and rust.

You can also use iron sulfate and nitrafen to treat gooseberry and currant bushes.

Tillage

To allow air to penetrate the soil and retain moisture in it, you need to loosen the ground under the bushes, remove weeds and last year's leaves. This reduces the accumulation of pests and viruses under the bushes. Currants also require a lot of moisture when pouring the berries. If the soil is light, then it is quite enough to carry out shallow loosening of 6-8 cm under the crown so as not to damage the shallow roots. You can dig up the ground around the bush to 10-15 cm.

Mulching under bushes

Of course, when digging, damage to small roots cannot be avoided, but the lack of air during compaction of the soil will also negatively affect the growth of currants. Therefore, sometimes gardeners, instead of digging, use mulching the soil under the bushes with plant residues, humus, compost, straw, and manure in a layer of at least 10 cm. Mulch retains moisture under the bushes, prevents the growth of weeds and strong compaction of the soil.

Plant nutrition

If you planted the soil well when planting currants or gooseberries, then for the next 4-5 years you don’t have to worry about feeding these bushes with phosphorus and potassium. But plants need to be provided with nitrogen starting from the third year (15-20 g/m2 of urea).

Gooseberries and currants require complex fertilizer and are very responsive to fertilizing. It is necessary to apply 6-8 kg of organic matter per bush every three years, as well as annually in the spring with nitroammooska or ammophoska at 20-25 g/m2. If the harvest is high, then the plants should also be fed with phosphorus and potassium during the formation of ovaries.

Remember that overfeeding bushes with nitrogen can provoke the development of diseases. The principle applies here: it is better to underfeed than to overfeed.

pruning currants in spring

Pruning currants in spring

The life expectancy of currant bushes is long: under favorable conditions, they can bear fruit for more than 20 years. Regular competent pruning of bushes also helps to extend the fruiting period. Old shoots should be regularly replaced with young ones. Pruning currants leads to increased growth of basal and lateral branches, and the fruiting area increases. With the help of pruning, the thickening of the bush is eliminated, the illumination of the shoots is increased, which certainly affects the increase in yield. Cut off all the tops from the zero branches.

Every 4 years, in late autumn or early spring, radical pruning is carried out: 3-4 strong zero shoots are left on the bush in the most convenient place, and the rest are cut out. This will encourage the plant to grow aboveground parts of the bush.

In addition, all damaged, diseased, weak and dry branches are cut out. Dry twigs are removed from old shoots and the tops from strong branches to enhance their growth. To change the direction of the shoot, it is cut to a bud pointing upward. You should not leave stumps; they will quickly become favored by pests, fungi and viruses.

Pruning should be done with a sharp knife, pruning shears and a file for cutting thick branches.

Caring for currants in spring is not difficult. All the works are familiar. However, currants and gooseberries will thank you for timely care in the spring with an excellent harvest. And you will save summer time by not treating bushes treated in spring.

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