Common currant diseases and parasites
Currants, despite their resistance, are susceptible to many diseases. It also has a lot of pests. Infected bushes may die. In order to take action in time, the gardener must know the enemy by sight. Next, we will look at the most common infections and pests that you may encounter on your property.
Diseases
There are fungal and viral diseases of currants. The first include:
- powdery mildew: a characteristic sign is a white, loose coating. It first appears on young leaves, and then moves to old ones, as well as to fruits;
- Anthracnose: manifests itself as reddish-brown spots about 1 mm on the leaves. Gradually they unite and capture the entire plate and petioles. This leads to premature leaf fall. Often the fungus develops in damp weather. Red currants are more susceptible to this infection;
- white spot, or septoria: round or angular marks form on the leaves. At first they are brown, then white with a narrow brown border. Each size is up to 3 mm. This fungus is more often observed on black currant varieties;
- Goblet rust: orange-red bubbles appear on the leaf blade. Then it turns yellow and falls off. The spores of the pathogen are transferred to the bush through the air. They are blown away by the wind from diseased trees. Another risk factor is high humidity and sedge growing nearby;
- Columnar rust: comes from coniferous trees. Black currants are at particular risk. Infestation is indicated by small yellow spots and orange pads under the leaf. The disease reduces winter hardiness;
- drying out of the bush: the main symptom is the death of shoots and branches. With this disease, small orange dots appear on the plant. Gradually they transform into red-brown protrusions, then, after the spores mature, they turn black;
- gray rot: the source of infection is shoots and dried fruits, from which spores are transferred to healthy bushes by the wind. This type of fungus is characterized by the formation of clumps of mold. White currants are most susceptible to gray rot.
Attention! Viral infections, which often result in the death of the bush, pose a great danger to the plant.
One of the most common diseases is terry, or reversion. Infected plants differ from healthy ones in leaf shape. It has only three lobes instead of five, fewer veins, and the plate itself is much thicker and darker. The currant smells weaker than usual. Another sign of the disease is late flowering.
In early June, the striped mosaic virus appears. Its main symptom is yellow patterns around the major veins. The disease is spread by aphids, mites, and the gardener himself when he uses untreated tools on healthy and diseased bushes.
Pests
The most common:
- leaf gall aphid: yellow-green insect up to 3 mm. The pest leaves behind brown bumps on the front side of the red currant leaf blade, the juice of which it feeds on. The insect lays eggs near the kidneys. There they remain all winter;
- leaf gall currant aphid: yellow-green insect up to 3 mm. Green growths with a yellow tint form on the plant;
- scale insect: the body is covered with a light gray shield, shaped like a pear. Length - 1.5 mm. The female body is orange, the larvae are red, and the eggs are purple. Scale insects mainly affect black currants;
- strawberry whitefly: an insect resembling a butterfly, up to 1.3 mm in size. Settles on red currant varieties. Two pairs of wings are covered with a waxy coating. A whitefly sucks sap from a bush. Females lay eggs on the back of the leaf. Up to 4 generations of the pest can develop in one summer. The whitefly overwinters under leaves and clods of earth;
- Striated beetle: a beetle up to 10 mm in color, black, the body covered with a metallic sheen. The head is widened at the apex, with a wide longitudinal groove;
- blackcurrant yellow sawfly: a yellowish-red insect measuring 7–8 mm. The larva is bluish-green. The eggs are long and white. Spends the winter in the ground and spider cocoons. The larvae eat the foliage. Up to 4 generations are hatched over the summer;
- Gooseberry sawfly: its larva is dangerous, as it damages the foliage of the bushes. She has a dark head color and a green body;
- gooseberry, berry sawfly: insect up to 3.5 mm in size. The mesonotum is glossy, the head and thorax are painted black. The larva is small and has legs on its abdomen and chest. Damaged berries contain insect waste products. Therefore, the fruits grow too much and spoil earlier;
- currant leaf gall midge: a mosquito up to 5 mm in size, with a narrow body and thread-like antennae. The fact that the pest has settled in the bush is indicated by the curling and wrinkling of the leaves;
- currant moth: an insect with a yellow head and elongated wings, the front pair is yellow-brown, the back pair is gray. The caterpillar grows up to 8 mm in length. At first it is red, then greenish-yellow, gray-green. Caterpillars eat the buds during the flowering period. This type of moth destroys up to half of the buds;
- glass currant: black and blue butterfly with narrow transparent wings. On the abdomen you can see yellow transverse stripes, at the end there is a black tassel. The caterpillar is about 2 cm long, the head and thorax are brown-brown, shiny, the pupa is gray-yellow. She overwinters in the branches. Butterflies appear on currant plantations in May-June. Branches damaged by glassware dry out;
- hairy moth: lepidopteran insect with a wingspan of up to 42 mm. The moth caterpillar is brown with a yellowish or greenish tint, a yellow chest band and warts, the pupa is red-brown. Butterflies appear in early spring. The female can be distinguished by the wing rudiments. The head and dorsal part of the body are light gray in color. The wings are wide, gray-green with a dark coating;
- noctuid moth: nocturnal moth. The fore wings are brown with a reddish tint, jagged, the hind wings are gray-brown, framed by a light fringe. The caterpillar is 40 mm long, black, with whitish spots on the sides, and three light stripes along the back. The insect actively eats leaves;
- pink downy moth: another variety of nocturnal moth. The front pair of wings has the shape of an oblong triangle, brown, with pinkish spots. The hind pair of wings is light brown-gray, with light fringe. The caterpillar of the downy back is up to 36 mm long, in the second segment there is a tubercle resembling a collar with two points. When calm, it looks like bird droppings. The downy back feeds on young foliage;
- currant bud mite: a microscopic pest that resembles a worm. The insect feeds and develops in the kidneys, causing them to swell and grow. Up to 3 thousand mites and larvae can overwinter in one bud.
Why and how to process currants in the fall
In order for the plant to be fruitful and healthy, it needs to be provided with proper and timely care not only in spring and summer, but also in autumn. Moreover, agronomists say that the time after harvesting the berries is the main stage of care.
After the fruits are collected, the bush devotes all its energy to the development of green mass, root system, and new shoots. Depending on what variety of currant you have, this period falls in August.
Autumn prevention is also important because with the onset of cold weather, all pests hide deep in the substrate for wintering. With the onset of spring, they leave their shelters to attack defenseless young plants.
Among the necessary autumn activities, I highlight:
- pruning old shoots;
- watering;
- loosening the soil;
- autumn fertilizer;
- carrying out therapeutic and preventive measures against pests;
- preparing currant plantings for winter.
Processing by season
The procedure must be carried out taking into account the stage of development of the bush. Thus, the most careful care is necessary in the spring, when plants are just awakening from winter dormancy. Pests from last season may remain in the soil and the currants themselves. Prevention minimizes the risk of plant infection and creates favorable conditions for good fruiting. Don’t forget about autumn processing, which is no less important.
What to treat in early spring?
Carrying out this procedure in March will protect the plantings from diseases and pests that the plants will have to face in the summer. It is carried out when the kidneys are swollen, but not fully opened. At the same time, the snow has already melted, but the ground is still hard. Work is planned for March. But provided that the winter is not long, the snow has already melted and the frosts have subsided. Otherwise, the drugs will not work. Because parasites and pests are protected by snow.
Before spraying, remove all dry and diseased branches. Last year's leaves are raked and the soil is loosened. Not only the bush itself is sprayed, but also the soil around the trunk within a radius of 50-60 cm.
The following drugs are used against diseases:
- copper and iron sulfate;
- Bordeaux mixture;
- infusion of ash;
- Topaz.
For the first treatment against pests, the following products are used:
- hot water - used on frozen ground and closed buds, effective against bud mites;
- soapy water;
- herbal infusions from tobacco, onion peels, dandelion.
Among the chemical preparations used are colloidal sulfur, Bordeaux mixture, Karbofos, Fufanon, Actellik.
Attention! The products are sprayed at any time of the year, morning or evening. The weather should be calm and dry this and the next 2-3 days.
Spraying during spring flowering
During this period, spraying poisonous preparations on shrubs is not recommended. There are several reasons for this. Firstly, gardeners are afraid that the active ingredients may get into the ovary and berries. Secondly, the plant is pollinated during this period. Toxins can poison beneficial insects, such as bees, and lead to their mass death.
However, during this period, you can use folk remedies on a natural and mineral basis. These include:
- infusions of ash obtained from burnt straw, firewood, sunflower;
- soap solution based on a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate;
- diluted acetic acid.
Summer in June
At the beginning of summer, the sawfly and mite become active. At this time, the following infections are most dangerous:
- anthracnose;
- septoria;
- gray rot.
After flowering, chemicals are used if the bush is sick or pests have settled on it. It is advisable to use products that have a wide spectrum of action - for example, Bordeaux mixture. Preventative treatment won't hurt. Mostly “soft” folk remedies are prepared.
During fruiting
At the ripening stage, currants are treated with potent drugs only for medicinal purposes. In such cases, one cannot count on a harvest. The main goal is to save the plantings themselves. It happens that neighboring plants are infected, with which this garden crop shares common pests and diseases. Then the beds need to be protected. For this purpose, biological products or folk remedies are used. They are harmless to berries, but at the same time they are a good preventive measure.
How to treat a bush in the fall after harvesting?
When the berries are picked, they need to be processed again. During this period, the use of chemicals is again allowed. Although recently bioactive products are increasingly in demand.
Reference. Care after harvest and in the fall, when the bush is prepared for wintering, is completely identical. But we must remember that black currants, unlike white and red ones, need more abundant watering.
In addition to spraying, other work is carried out:
- cleaning the tree trunk circle;
- feeding;
- pruning infected and dried shoots;
- mulching.
How to process currants in spring
It is necessary to carry out preventive treatment of currant bushes against insect pests after the snow melts, in early spring before the start of sap flow, on frozen ground and unopened buds.
The very first is “hot” processing. It allows you to fight parasites, disease spores and improves the quality of development and yield of currants.
To do this, water is heated to 80 degrees and the bush is watered from a watering can. After watering, be sure to trim dry, old, and disease- and parasite-affected branches. The cuttings must be burned so that the infection does not spread throughout the garden area.
Cuts on the branches are treated with garden varnish to protect the plant from loss of sap and infection. It is also important to collect all last year's foliage that is still left after autumn. Insect pests and spores of diseases and fungi overwinter in it. It is advisable to burn the leaves.
The next stage is the spring treatment of currants against diseases and pests with special preparations. In general, they are divided into several categories and used depending on their purpose:
- Fungicides, that is, against fungi;
- Acaricides to eliminate ticks;
- Insecticides against parasitic insects;
- Herbicides against weeds;
- General purpose pesticides.
Even before the buds revive, spray with strong pesticides, for example, one of these:
- DNOC;
- Nitrophen;
- Copper sulfate solution;
- 1% Bordeaux mixture;
- Iron sulfate.
They destroy most fungal and viral diseases and pests. When the spring season comes into its own, the plants produce their first leaves, spray for preventive purposes:
- Foundationazole;
- Actellicom;
- Fufanon;
- Akarin or Iskra-bio;
- Fitoverm.
Timely prevention will prevent problems with diseases and parasitic insects.
Treat plants additionally before flowering. Use the drugs from the list above, plus you can spray:
- 3% Bordeaux mixture;
- Colloidal sulfur solution;
- Karbofos;
- Bitoxibacillin.
For gardeners who prefer natural farming, we recommend processing plants using traditional methods. For this use:
- soapy water;
- decoction of celandine;
- tobacco decoction;
- infusion of garlic and onion peel;
- nightshade decoction
- dandelion infusion.
Bushes are sprayed with these compounds once a month after the buds have revived, preferably during spring, summer and autumn. We'll look at how to prepare them below.
Chemicals and drugs
When a quick and guaranteed result is needed, chemical-based drugs are more trusted. They are much more effective against pests and diseases. However, along with a pronounced effect, they are also highly toxic. It can cause poisoning if the products are used incorrectly or safety precautions are not followed.
Bordeaux liquid
This is a solution obtained by mixing copper sulfate and slaked lime. Bordeaux mixture is effective against fungal infections of currants, including:
- powdery mildew;
- gray rot;
- anthracnose;
- rust and others.
In the spring, the bushes are treated with Bordeaux mixture, diluted in a concentration of 3%. To treat plants in the summer, use a 1% solution.
The store sells a ready-made mixture. But you can do it yourself. For a 1% solution you will need 100 g of copper sulfate and 100–150 g of lime. First, the products are diluted with 1 liter of warm water, each separately, and then the volume is increased to 5 liters. Strain the milk of lime and add a solution of copper sulfate to it. Accordingly, to obtain a drug with a concentration of 3%, three times more active ingredients are taken.
Bordeaux mixture can be stored for no longer than 24 hours. During this time, it must be used or the remains disposed of.
Copper sulfate
Crystal hydrate of copper (III) sulfate destroys spore shells and mycelium, and is toxic to gnawing and sucking pests. It is used before the buds open to protect the plant organs from chemical burns. Or they are used after leaf fall. If you carry out treatment on unfallen leaves, excess copper gets into the soil. For young shrubs, use a solution with a concentration of 1%, for old shrubs with thick bark - 3%.
Sometimes private farms are sprayed with a weak (1–1.5%) solution of the drug to protect the plant from pests. But at least 20 days must pass between using the product and harvesting.
Attention! The drug is toxic. Therefore, it is used locally, exclusively on house and garden plots.
Urea
Urea is a highly concentrated nitrogen fertilizer (46%), which is odorless white crystals. Dissolve the product in water at a temperature of 80 °C. The advantage of the drug is that it is quickly absorbed by plants, which is important in pest control.
Urea is used during the formation of buds as a means against pests:
- aphid;
- weevil;
- slowpoke;
- apple blossom beetle.
Urea is also used for garden diseases - monilial burn, purple spot, scab. The product can also be used to treat fallen leaves.
Reference. Urea can be used during late spring frosts. Fertilizer helps to delay the flowering period of plants, especially plums, peaches, and apricots.
To combat pests and diseases, dissolve 500–700 g of crystals in 10 liters of water.
Ammonia
This drug is a weak ammonia solution. It is used both for feeding and as a way to combat aphids. The most effective remedy is obtained by combining the following components:
- laundry soap - 40 g;
- water - 10 l;
- ammonia - 40 g.
First, the soap is dissolved in water. Then ammonia is added there. The plant is treated with the drug every two days, the course is 10 days. The product prepared according to this recipe is better distributed and retained on the surface of the plants.
Nitrophen
The drug copes with the following problems:
- pests overwintering in the bark;
- mites, aphids, scale insects, moths;
- fungal infections - powdery mildew, rust, septoria.
Prepare a currant treatment product according to the instructions. Shrubs are sprayed with a 3% solution (300 g per 10 liters of water).
How to cure red and white currants
In early spring, when the buds begin to bloom, look at them carefully; aphids usually inhabit the upper buds. They must be cut and burned.
If red spots appear on the already blossoming foliage of red or white currants, it means that it has been affected by the fungal disease Anthracnose or gall aphid. The same spots can appear on black currants.
- Before the buds open, the soil around the bushes is treated with a 1% solution of copper sulfate.
- Before flowering, the branches should be sprayed with Topsin-M.
- During the period when the ovaries appear, be sure to feed them with wood ash.
- After harvesting, spray with Bordeaux mixture.
- In the fall, after digging, spray the bushes with nitrophen.
Fighting methods
If you see affected foliage, then use one of the described infusions.
- The most effective is considered to be an infusion of celandine: pick 3-4 kg of grass, fill it with a bucket of water for 1 day. Treat the foliage from above and from the inside.
- Mustard infusion is no less effective. To prepare it, you need to pour 25 g of mustard powder into 1 liter of boiling water for 2 days. Then add water to a volume of 10 liters, stir in 100 g of laundry soap shavings.
- Pick 0.5 buckets of marigolds, pour in 10 liters of boiling water, leave for two days, add soap.
If most of the bush is affected, then treat with preparations such as
- Aktofit,
- Avertin,
- Bitoxibacillin.
Before buds appear and after harvesting, currant plantings should be sprayed
- Aktelicom,
- Proteus,
- Wofatox.
These toxic drugs are used when there is no other option.
Folk remedies
Many gardeners trust folk remedies more. Since they have a mild effect on the plant. In addition, this processing allows you to get the most healthy berries. But you should remember: such products are significantly inferior in effectiveness to chemical and biological drugs. And it is better to use them only at the initial stage of infection, as a preventive measure. Or in cases where the use of other substances is prohibited.
Green soap
It is a green or brownish viscous liquid with a consistency reminiscent of sour cream. It is based on potassium salts of fatty acids, vegetable oils, and water. Soap is made only from natural ingredients. In addition to plant lipids, the product contains sheep and cattle fat. The drug coats the body of insects, blocking oxygen supply and mobility.
The product is used against the following pests:
- aphid;
- mites;
- scale insect
To do this, dissolve 250 g of soap in 10 liters of water. The liquid is sprayed onto the plants from below and from the sides.
The product also helps fight powdery mildew, rust, and spotting. But then it is used together with copper sulfate. To do this, mix 0.8 liters of warm water and 30 g of soap. Add copper sulfate - 2 g per 200 g of solution.
Green soap can be used no more than three times per season. The last treatment is carried out 5 days before harvest, no later. The product has been assigned the fourth hazard class (low). Therefore, it can be used without harm to birds, animals, and humans.
Soda
Plants are treated against pests and infections with soda ash. An aqueous solution is used against:
- powdery mildew (5 g/l water, 4 g liquid soap);
- aphids (2 g/l);
- gray rot (8 g/l of water, used for irrigation).
If a disease or pest has infected the bush during the fruiting period, then treat the plant with the solution no later than 25 days before harvesting.
Attention! The drug belongs to hazard class III. Therefore, processing is carried out in personal protective equipment. The proportions recommended in the recipes are not violated.
Boiling water
This is the simplest means of pest control. Bushes are watered with hot water, thereby destroying insects:
- kidney mite;
- aphids;
- glass
Boiling water protects bushes against powdery mildew, increases the immunity of currants, and awakens them after wintering. The treatment is carried out when the snow has not yet melted, and the buds are still in a dormant state.
Attention! If you pour boiling water over an “awakened” plant, it may die due to burns. Therefore, they focus not on the calendar, but on the condition of the currants.
Ash infusion
It protects plants from powdery mildew, aphids, sawflies, slugs, and snails. For processing, a solution of 400 g of dry raw materials and a bucket of hot water is used. The product is ready for use after two days.
The product prepared according to this recipe gives the result:
- ash - 1.5 kg;
- water - 10 l;
- laundry soap - 50 g.
Celandine
Many people collect the plant for treatment, and sometimes they consider it a weed and throw it away. But experienced gardeners harvest grass to combat pests. Celandine is collected when it blooms and dried in a gazebo or attic.
An infusion is prepared from dry raw materials:
- 1 kg of grass is poured into 10 liters of heated water.
- They insist for a day.
- Strain.
The infusion is effective against aphids.
Reference. Celandine is used as mulch. In this case, it is effective against weeds.
Mustard
Table seasoning also helps in the garden, fighting pests such as:
- sawyers;
- moth;
- caterpillars.
To process 100 g of dry powder, pour a bucket of boiling water and wait 48 hours. Then 50 g of crushed laundry soap is dissolved in 10 liters of water. The liquids are mixed and the resulting product is applied to the beds with bushes before flowering.
Tobacco
You should not get rid of this plant on your site - it will help in the fight against aphids. The infusion is prepared as follows:
- 300 g of grass is poured into 10 liters of boiled water.
- Let it brew for 48 hours.
- Add 30 g of laundry soap.
The drug is used to treat plants that have been invaded by the pest.
Garlic water
Garlic water also helps prevent aphids. The drug is prepared as follows:
- 300 g of garlic are crushed without peeling.
- Pour in 2 liters of water.
- Keep for 2 days.
- Strain, squeeze out the cake thoroughly.
- Add another 6 liters of water.
- Dissolve 3 tablespoons of laundry soap shavings.
The result is a concentrate for spraying. Before use, each part of the drug is diluted with water in proportions 1:4.
Treatment of currants against the most common diseases and pests
Currants, which belong to the gooseberry family, are susceptible to a number of fungal and tick-borne diseases, aphid attacks, etc. To avoid harmful consequences, it is necessary to promptly implement a set of protective and preventive measures aimed at improving the health of the bush.
How to get rid of aphids on currants
Usually, two types of aphids settle on currants - gooseberry shoot and red-headed gall. The first affects black currants, the second affects red currants. They are easy to spot. The blackcurrant leaves curl into a tube, inside which the pest has settled. Gall aphids settle on the inner surface of red and white currant leaves, and bright red tubercles called galls form on the outside.
Shoot aphids attack young leaves and shoots of black currants
In autumn, aphids lay eggs under the bark of annual shoots, where they overwinter. With the onset of warmth in the spring, the larvae hatch, which immediately begin to eat young buds and shoots. Around mid-July, when the foliage becomes coarser, the aphids grow wings and fly to nearby weeds, which they then feed on.
The larvae of gall aphids, hatching from those deposited on the underside of a red currant leaf, form red bulges, so-called galls, on the outer surface of the leaf.
Based on the characteristics of the aphid life cycle, the timing and methods of control are determined.
- In early spring, before the buds open, the crooked, aphid-infected ends of young branches 10–15 cm long are cut off (this operation is usually combined with breaking off mite buds). All collected twigs and buds must be burned.
- Immediately after this, if the air temperature allows (+5–10 °C), you can treat the bushes with boiling water. Thoroughly pour hot water from a watering can at a temperature of 80–85 °C on each branch. With this treatment, the remaining aphid eggs that were missed during pruning die.
- Instead of scalding with boiling water, you can treat the bushes with steam. Cover the bush with a film, under which a bucket of boiling water is placed. The procedure is carried out until the water cools to 70 °C.
- Another method is fumigation with burning rubber smoke for three hours. To do this, place some metal containers with smoldering rubber in them near the bushes. All aphids will die.
- At this time, supporters of chemical control methods treat shrubs with potent insecticides (insect control agents). We can recommend Nitrofen.
- Karbofos.
- Aktara.
- Aktellik and others.
- Before flowering, a second spraying is carried out with the selected preparation.
- The third spraying, immediately after flowering, is best done using folk remedies. It is better not to use chemicals unless absolutely necessary. These could be, for example:
- An infusion of tobacco dust (0.5 kg per 10 liters of water is infused for 3-4 days) with the addition of an adhesive - a means that promotes the adhesion of the solution, for example, laundry soap - is sprayed on the plants in the evening, in dry, warm weather.
- An infusion of onion peels (0.5 kg per 10 liters of water is infused for 5 days) or an infusion of garlic (0.5 kg of finely crushed garlic per 5 liters of water is infused for a day).
- A solution of soda ash (1 kg of soda per 1 liter of water) not only fights aphids, but also fungi.
- In the summer, if despite the measures taken in the spring, aphids still appear, you can dip the affected branches in a bucket with one of the listed (or similar) solutions. Regularly remove weeds from the area.
- After harvesting, if necessary, you can return to chemical treatment.
It is known that ants cultivate aphids, so if these insects live on the site, you can drive them away using ordinary table salt. Sprinkle it on the anthill and the ants will go away.
Video: spraying currants against aphids
Treatment of red currants when red leaves appear
Red currant leaves turn red in two cases
Red currant leaf affected by anthracnose When the first signs of anthracnose appear on red currant leaves, you should immediately treat the bushes with Fitosporin-M
- When affected by gall aphids. Fighting methods were discussed above.
- When affected by anthracnose (fungal disease).
If you find characteristic red spots on currant leaves (a sign of anthracnose), you need to urgently treat the bushes with Fitosporin-M; Quadris can be used even during the berry picking period.
After harvesting, they are processed
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- Previkur.
- Topsin.
- Funvizol.
In late autumn and early spring, preventive treatment with copper sulfate or Bordeaux mixture.
Treatment of currants against bud mites
The bud mite, as the name suggests, attacks currant buds. It overwinters inside the buds; each affected bud usually contains up to 1 thousand individuals. It has very small dimensions - up to 0.2–0.3 mm. Buds affected by mites have a rounded shape and an increased size compared to healthy ones.
On the left are healthy, oblong currant buds, on the right are those affected by mites (enlarged, rounded)
If in early spring, before the buds open, you treat currant bushes with boiling water or steam to combat aphids, then at the same time you will destroy mites.
An analogue of this method is fire treatment. You can use a blowtorch, gas torch or torch. The flame is quickly passed along the branches 2-3 times at a distance of 10–15 cm. Since healthy kidneys are covered with hard scales, fire will not harm them. Infected buds are loose and fire will easily destroy mites and aphids.
Ticks are not insects (they are arachnids), so insecticides do not affect them. To combat them, acaricides are used (as anti-mite drugs are called), as well as drugs containing sulfur.
During flowering and immediately after flowering, shrubs are treated with a solution of colloidal sulfur (10 g per 10 liters of water) or karbofos (75 g per 10 liters of water), and after flowering the concentration of the solutions is halved.
During the season, the acaricides Akarin and Fitoverm, which can be used just two days before eating the berries, are of great help.
Among the folk remedies, the best way to help is garlic infusion (0.2–0.5 kg of chopped garlic per 10 liters of water, infused for 24 hours), which is also used to combat aphids. Treatments are carried out during budding and immediately after flowering.
More accurately, the timing of treatments can be determined by monitoring the ambient temperature, since the development cycle of the bud mite depends on it. Typically, the first emergence and migration of tick larvae occurs at a temperature of 18 °C. It is important not to miss this moment and carry out the first treatment.
Table: treatment intervals with drugs against currant bud mite
Air temperature, °C | Period of larval development, days | Treatment interval, days |
+12…+18 | 25–30 | 12 |
+18…+20 | 20–25 | 8–10 |
+20…+25 | 10–20 | 5–7 |
+25…+30 | 6–10 | 3–4 |
In the future, two more treatments need to be carried out at intervals depending on the air temperature (as indicated in the table).
Treatment of currants against spider mites
The first sign of a spider mite attack on currants is the appearance of yellow dots on the surface of the leaves, then the leaves become “marbled”, turn yellow, dry out and fall off. In advanced cases, a web appears on the plant, in which there are tick nests.
This is what red currants look like in advanced cases when they are infected with spider mites
Preventive measures to combat spider mites are no different from the measures to combat bud mites described above.
In addition, we can cite the well-proven Japanese-made Sunmite drug. This is a contact acaricide that successfully copes with many different ticks. It is equally effective at all stages of pest development from egg to adult tick. Its effect begins within 15 minutes after treatment and lasts up to 6 weeks, regardless of air temperature. Low toxicity for animals and humans.
Due to the fact that spider mites are afraid of high humidity, it is effective to treat shrubs with jets of water, thoroughly washing the inner surfaces of the leaves.
Treatment of currants against powdery mildew
Powdery mildew is a fungal disease that parasitizes the leaves and berries of currants (both black and red). It overwinters in fallen leaves, as well as on the plant itself, so the fight against it should begin in early spring, before the buds open.
Powdery mildew on currants resembles mold
The already familiar methods of treatment with boiling water, steam or open fire are effective. The bush is also treated with a 3% solution of copper sulfate.
Marigolds and calendula growing near currants will protect them from powdery mildew and other fungal diseases.
If, despite prevention, powdery mildew still affects the currants, treat them with gentle insecticides before flowering and after harvesting. The following drugs are popular and effective:
- Fitosporin.
- Potassium permanganate (1.5 grams per 10 liters of water).
- Quadris.
- Horus.
Quadris can be used 3-5 days before picking berries, Horus - 7 days.
Recommended folk remedies:
- Infusion of wood ash (1 kg per 10 liters of water, infuse for 2 days).
- Soda ash (50 g per 10 liters of water) - process after flowering.
- Mullein infusion (infuse 1 kg per 3 liters of water for 4 days, dilute with water in a ratio of 1 to 3 on the day of treatment) - process 3 times.
In the fall, before going into winter, preventive treatment is carried out with a 5% solution of ferrous sulfate.
Tank mixtures
This is the name for complex preparations that have antifungal and insecticidal properties. They prepare them themselves.
In spring, currants can be sprayed with the following:
- Actofit, Bitoxibacillin, Guapsin;
- Skor and Aktara;
- Phytosporin and Bitoxibacillin;
- Bayleton and Karate;
- Tilt, Forecast and any insecticide.
- Fitoverm, Bitoxibacillin, Guapsin.
Attention! Some drugs are prohibited from mixing. So, for example, you cannot combine Bordeaux mixture and copper oxychloride with anything. Acceptable and undesirable combinations are usually indicated in the manufacturer's instructions.
Chemical treatment methods for pests and diseases
As usual, chemicals are valued for their quick and guaranteed effect. Sometimes the use of chemicals is the only way to save currant plantings from fungal infections and numerous pests. If you process it in the spring, it is absolutely harmless to both humans and the crop. Provided that the recommended terms are followed, by the time the berries are collected, the active components will have time to completely decompose.
However, I do not recommend turning to fungicides and acaricides in the following situations:
- a small number of pests;
- at the first stage of infection development.
First, I’ll tell you about fungicides—substances used to combat fungal pathogens. The most important rule: one treatment - one drug. For the second spraying, it is more advisable to use a different preparation.
Among the chemicals, I trust the following:
- Bordeaux mixture. Against anthracnose, spotting and rust. Before the buds bloom, a 3% solution is suitable, at the budding stage - 1%.
- Copper sulfate as a fungicide.
- Iron vitriol.
- Urea (another name is urea).
- Colloidal sulfur is a contact preparation that counteracts mites and mildew.
- “Abiga-pik” is a product based on copper oxychloride, which is effective against powdery mildew.
- “Hom” is another type of contact fungicide against “dew” based on copper oxychloride.
- “Oxychom” is a systemic contact fungicide against “dew” infection based on two substances, oxadixil and copper oxychloride.
- “Tiovit Jet” is a contact=product made on the basis of sulfur. Effective against both dew and mites.
- "Til" is a systemic fungicide based on the substance propiconazole. Helps against rust, septoria, anthracnose, and “dew.”
- "Skor" is a systemic remedy for spotting, "dew", based on the effects of difenoconazole.
- "Raek" is a drug similar in its composition and effect on infectious agents to "Skor".
- “Forecast” is a complex systemic fungicidal agent based on propiconazole. Use it both before flowering and after picking berries. It is used against septoria and anthracnose, powdery mildew, goblet and columnar rust.
- "Topaz" is a fungicide drug based on the effect of penconazole. Used for "dew".
Separately, chemical agents are used to combat all kinds of insect pests - insecticides. As with fungicides, the same rules apply here: for one spraying - one preparation. For the next spraying, take an insecticide with a different active ingredient.
Among the drugs on the market, I trust the following:
- "Prophylactic". The product is based on karbofos and vaseline oil. This is an enteric-contact drug that effectively eliminates scale insects, leaf rollers, copperheads, aphids, mites and false scale insects. I use “Profilaktin” in early spring, before the buds open.
- "Biotlin." The killing effect on aphids is based on the substance imidacloprid. Use before currant blossoms.
- "Aktara". The active ingredient is thiamethoxam. Enteric-contact insecticide with a systemic effect, affecting aphids. I use it for spraying before flowering.
- "Drug 30 plus." The base is the same Vaseline oil. Suitable for use in the spring, while the buds have not yet bloomed. Effectively fights scale insects, moths, copperheads, aphids, mites, scale insects and false scale insects.
- "Tanrek". A systemic insecticidal drug that acts on the intestinal tract of aphids.
- "Biotlin." Based on the effects of imidacloprid. A systemic intestinal contact drug against aphids that is used before flowering.
- "Confidor Extra". The action of the drug is based on imidacloprid. Used against aphids - affects the intestinal system of the pest. Suitable for spraying before flowering.
- "Spark". The product contains two active components - cypermethrin and permethrin. Used against aphids, sawflies, leaf rollers and moths.
- "Iskra-M". It is based on karbofos. It has a wider range of effects on various pests - from scale insects, false scale insects, sawflies, copperheads, leaf rollers to shoot and leaf gall midges, bud moths and aphids.
- "Aliot." Based on the effects of karbofos, it is used against scale insects, false scale insects, aphids, leaf rollers and currant mites.
- "Inta-vir". A drug based on cypermethrin resists aphids and glass flies.
- "Aktellik". The product is based on pirimiphos-methyl. The drug counteracts moths, gall midges, aphids, leaf rollers, sawflies, and moths.
- "Karate-Zeon". Based on the action of lambda-cyhalothrin. Buy from leaf rollers, aphids and mites.
- "Carbotsin". It is based on two strong elements - malathion and cypermethrin. The manufacturer guarantees that the product helps against moths, leaf rollers, sawflies, codling moths, and aphids.
- "Herald". The active element is diflubenzuron. Resists leaf rollers, bud moths and aphids.
- "Kinmiks." Based on the effects of beta-cypermethrin. Spraying is carried out before and after the flowering stage; it protects the plant from sawflies, aphids, and leaf rollers.
- "Fufanon-Nova". Based on the same karbofos. It is used against moths, scale insects and false scale insects, sawflies, gall midges, leaf rollers, moths, moths, aphids and bud mites.
Security measures
When working with chemicals, safety regulations must be followed. It is better to carry out work wearing gloves and a suit, which can then be removed and washed. If a sprayer is used, it is better to wear a respirator and goggles to protect your eyes and breathing. After treatment, wash your hands and face thoroughly with clean water and soap. Pets and children are not allowed into the area during the procedure, as well as for the next 48 hours.
If the diluted drug remains, but it is not planned to be used in the next few days, then the remains are disposed of according to the requirements of the instructions.
With proper care of currant plantings, a bountiful harvest is guaranteed. But the use of products for the prevention and treatment of diseases and pest control should be moderate. Otherwise, beautiful berries will not bring health benefits.
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Treatment during fruiting
Treatment in the summer during flowering and formation of berries is carried out to combat existing ailments. Chemicals should be used carefully and only when absolutely necessary. It is better to use traditional methods or biological products.
Effective means are the following:
- Citrus decoction . The product is infused for 5 days on the peel of lemon, orange and others, in the proportion of 1 kg per 10 liters. Helps against aphids, scale insects and mealybugs.
- Garlic decoction . You need to prepare the product within a week in the proportion of 200 g per 4 liters. Helps against whiteflies and ticks.
- Tincture of onion peel and pulp . Cook in a warm place for 1 day. Helps against aphids, mites and fungi.
- Tobacco infusion . 1 kg of leaves, dust and stems are brewed in 10 liters for 24 hours. Helps against aphids and mites.
- A decoction of marigold flowers . Brew 1 kg of dry raw materials in a liter of boiling water, leave for 48 hours. Removes mites, aphids, fungi and whiteflies. In general, marigolds are a useful crop in this regard. You can read about the beneficial properties of marigolds by following the link.
- An aqueous solution of soda in a proportion of 4 tablespoons per 10 liters. Destroys powdery mildew and various types of mushrooms.
- Ash tincture , which is prepared for 4 days. Kills powdery mildew.
- Mullein solution with a proportion of 1 liter to 3-4 liters. Leave for 3 days. Destroys powdery mildew.
You can spray weekly.
Why do currants get sick, and what parasites are they treated for?
The causative agents of currant diseases are viruses, fungi and insect pests. The reason for plant infection lies not only in the presence of a pathogenic microorganism. To activate the source of the disease, a confluence of additional circumstances is necessary:
- insufficient amount of nutrients;
- sudden changes in temperature;
- lack or excess of moisture.
These factors reduce the plant’s immunity and serve as favorable conditions for pathogens to live.
Currant diseases
Preventive spring spraying of bushes is aimed at preventing the development of:
- Artaknose - manifests itself as small lumpy brown spots on the leaf blade. Merging with each other, the formations spread throughout the plant, causing its death.
- Rust is a fungal disease that is accompanied by the appearance of yellow-orange seals on the back of the sheet. The leaves quickly turn yellow and then fall off.
- Septoria (white spot). With this disease, the leaves of the plant turn white and become covered with dark spots.
- Reversion (doubleness), in which the shape of the leaves changes, the flowers dry out, and the fruits do not form.
- Mold - American powdery mildew (spharotheca), which is manifested by a whitish coating on the leaves, which gradually thickens, deforming the leaf plate. From the leaves, the fungus can spread to shoots or fruits.
- European powdery mildew is a cobweb-like coating that covers the foliage, causing it to curl, dry out and fall off. The disease is more common on red currant varieties.
- Striped mosaic is a fatal disease for currants, requiring the immediate destruction of the entire bush. It appears as a bright yellow or red pattern that forms around the veins on the leaves.
Left unattended, these diseases can destroy an entire currant plantation in a few years. Therefore, spring treatment with special preparations is a mandatory procedure. Agrotechnical techniques will help prevent currant diseases - eliminating weeds, weeding, loosening, proper watering and rational fertilizing.
Insect pests
There is no currant variety that is absolutely resistant to all types of parasites. Therefore, each bush is at risk of insect damage. The latter, feeding on different parts of the plant, deplete it, leading to decreased fertility or death. The main pests of currants:
- Currant bud mite. It multiplies very quickly and can colonize the entire plant in a short time. Causes underdevelopment of the plant, shedding of flowers and berries. Transfers reversion. It affects currant buds, which become like plump, loose round heads of cabbage.
- Spider mite. Lives on the lower part of the leaf blade. The main sign of its presence is small white dots on the leaves. Gradually it entangles the entire bush in a web, destroying the leaves and preventing the formation of the ovary.
- Shield. Prefers to be located in places where leaf cuttings adjoin branches. By sucking the juice of shoots, leaves or berries, it leads to the death of the entire plant. The main sign of damage is large dark yellow spots on the leaves and the presence of a sticky substance on them.
- Aphid. It feeds on currant juice, gradually destroying it.
- Ants. The danger of this insect lies in the need for breeding and further protection of aphid colonies. Anthills erected near currant bushes slow down their development.
- Gall aphid. It feeds on the juice of young leaves, disrupts the development of new shoots, thereby having a negative impact on the quality of the future harvest. The parasite can be identified by red dots, swellings or uneven tubercles on the upper part of the leaf blades. By turning over the affected leaf, you can see the insect itself.
- Currant moth. Light green caterpillar. Eating leaves and wrapping berries in a dense layer of cobwebs. Reproduction of the parasite threatens complete loss of the crop.
- Currant glass. A butterfly whose larvae penetrate inside the shoots and feed on their juices. The leaves of the affected bushes become small, fall off prematurely, and the few berries acquire a very sour taste. The shoots in which the pests have settled dry out and spontaneously fall off.
Leaf roller, moth and sawfly can also attack currants. Plants that eat leaves.
Preventative treatment
The technology for caring for currants is simple, but it really gives excellent results.
- After winter, you need to cut out the top of the bush, as well as all broken and dry branches. Frozen or damaged shoots are removed to healthy buds. Burn it all to prevent pests from breeding.
- Till the ground under the bush: loosen it and fertilize it with ash (manure, ash). Dig up the soil between individual small bushes. This causes severe damage to the accumulation of harmful larvae.
- Sprinkle currants with some remedy (folk or chemical) to prevent the appearance of classic diseases - septoria, aphids, anthracnose.
Treating currants in the spring against pests is easier if you plant calendula or marigolds around the bush. These plants reduce the risk of developing fungal spores and viral diseases.
Processing currants during bud swelling
Even before the buds fully open, you need to protect the currant bushes from currant gall midges, bud moths and gooseberry moths. To do this, the bushes are first treated with Fufanon-Nova (13 ml per 10 liters of water, two treatments with an interval of 14 days) or Karbotsin (1 tablet per 10 liters of water, 2 treatments with an interval of 14 days).
After the first treatment, the ground under the bushes is mulched with peat, spreading it in a layer of at least 6 cm. It is advisable to carry out both actions at a daytime temperature of at least 13°C.