What can be grafted onto a plum tree in spring: step-by-step instructions

Grafting is a type of vegetative propagation of plants. In other words, it is a method of obtaining a new variety of plant by combining one part of it with a part of another plant. At the same time, there is no need to buy a new seedling and spend money - you just need to have a small tree cutting on hand. But why are they vaccinated?

Just imagine: you bought a plot where fruit trees are already growing. After harvesting in the fall, you realize that the quality of the fruit could be much better. What to do in this case – plant new trees? But they will begin to produce a harvest only after many years.

And grafting will be an ideal option, since the harvest from grafted trees can be harvested in about 3 years.

In addition, this procedure will help rejuvenate the trees and make them more resistant to many diseases without the use of fertilizing or any means to combat diseases. This applies to all fruit trees, including plums.

What is the best way to vaccinate?

Before you start grafting trees, there are a few important rules to remember. First of all, to perform this operation you need to take only healthy cuttings, and the plum rootstocks must also be healthy. It is worth remembering about breed compatibility. It is best to work with trees of the same variety, that is, it is advisable to graft plum onto plum. In this case, there is a high probability of rapid fusion of the rootstock and cuttings. This means that the beneficial properties of the plum will be preserved and the tree will begin to develop quickly.

However, many novice gardeners are concerned about what can be grafted onto a plum tree other than plums? According to biologists, the plum was obtained by crossing cherry plum and sloe - this was proven by experiments and research. Thus, you can cross plum with cherry plum. Apricot is also suitable for grafting, but it is very important to choose the location on the rootstock wisely - it should not be affected by tinder fungi. Otherwise, the grafting operation will fail.

In general, it is not recommended to combine different varieties of fruit trees, since the likelihood of normal growth and yield in this case is minimal. So, for example, under no circumstances will you be able to cross a plum with any varieties of cherries and cherries.

Storage of workpieces

To preserve harvested cuttings, it is worth choosing the right method. They can be placed in the refrigerator or in the basement. Often the grafting material is kept in sawdust or snow.

In frozen sawdust

This storage method is used in regions with thaws in winter. To do this, cover the ground with a layer of wet sawdust, place the cuttings on top, tying them in a bunch. Then sprinkle the material with wet sawdust - this layer should be approximately 20 centimeters. Dry sawdust is additionally applied on top. The thickness of this layer is 40 centimeters.

To avoid moisture getting inside, the structure should be wrapped in plastic film. To repel rodents, sawdust is moistened with phenolic acid. To avoid scorching the bark of the cuttings, they should be placed in plastic pipes or bottles. It is important to leave room for ventilation.

In the basement and refrigerator

Cuttings can be stored in the basement. To do this, just place them in wet sand. Sawdust also works great. It is recommended to place the cuttings with the cuts facing down.

To maintain optimal humidity parameters, the substrate should be sprayed with water.

Also, cuttings are perfectly stored in an ordinary refrigerator. To do this, put them in a plastic bottle and loosely close the lid. The material is placed on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator.

In the snow

Before frost arrives, you should dig a hole in the ground. It should be approximately 35 centimeters. It is recommended to lay spruce branches on the bottom. You should place the cuttings on top, wrapping them in fiberglass. This will help protect them from rodents.

When is it preferable to carry out the procedure?

To successfully carry out such a procedure, it is very important to take into account the time factor, since the timing of vaccination plays an important role in obtaining the result. Each season has its own characteristics:

Plum grafting in spring is most popular, since during this period the movement of juices is at a high level. By ensuring tight contact between the rootstock and scion, fusion between them is ensured. If for some reason this does not happen, the operation can be repeated again in the same season.

In the summer, work is carried out only if you did not have time to do this in the spring. There is a high probability that the cuttings in this case will still take root and grow stronger. That is why you should not postpone the procedure until the last months of summer - it is advisable to graft trees in June.
It is highly undesirable to vaccinate in the fall. It should be borne in mind that frost can strike at any time - because of this, young cuttings simply will not take root.

Plum grafting - choosing the appropriate method

There are several options for grafting fruit trees, but we will tell you about the most popular ones, which allow you to achieve good results in a short time.

Cleft grafting. This method is used when the scion is 2-3 times larger than the diameter of the cutting. At the grafting site, you need to make an even cut and form a split in the middle to a depth of about 5 cm. After this, the cutting is carefully inserted there, and the grafting site is coated with garden varnish and wrapped.

Soil grafting. This method is considered the simplest: cuts of the same size are made on the scion and rootstock, after which they are connected and tied tightly. This method is better for connecting young plants.

Grafting with cuttings. In its implementation, this method is reminiscent of bud grafting; the only difference is that the cutting of the rootstock must be equal in diameter to the scion branch.

In addition, it must be remembered that after grafting, gardeners must carry out a number of measures aimed at rapid fusion of the scion and rootstock . So, you will need:

Wrap the grafted cuttings with electrical tape to cover the cuts.
Cover all voids and cracks with garden varnish.
If you carry out work in the spring, put a paper bag on the grafted cuttings, which will save the young shoot from the sun's rays.

Now you know how to graft plum onto plum, which will allow you not only to get tasty and rich harvests, but also to protect your orchard from many diseases.

Tree care after grafting

In order for the cutting to take root and the grafting to be successful, after the manipulation it is necessary to continue caring for the tree.

Caring for a fruit tree after grafting includes:

the place of cuts is covered and insulated with film;
voids and stumps are covered with varnish or tree paint;
in the middle of summer, a constriction in the form of a ribbon or twine is untied from the tree;
on an established branch, remove excess inflorescences, leaving 2–3 experimental flowers;
in the spring, grafted trees are fed with nitrogenous fertilizers that stimulate growth;
Before autumn hibernation, the grafted crop is watered with phosphorus and potassium preparations to increase the winter hardiness of the tree.

The graft that has taken root will make itself known by producing leaves and flowers.

How to plant a plum tree correctly, timing and features

Properly cared for fruit-bearing plum trees always delight the gardener. Starting from early spring and ending in late autumn, he nurtures them, looks after them, fertilizes them, and removes excess growth. He tries to do everything so that the garden has the opportunity to fully develop and bring joy to its guardian in the form of a rich harvest. This is correct, this is how a real owner should have it. But even with the most ideal care, at certain periods of development the plum tree must be grafted. To say that this procedure is mandatory is not true, the tree has grown and will continue to grow. But what will it be and with what harvest? In the first years of its development, it will, of course, be “correct”, that is, it will grow normally and bear good fruit. Next, who knows.

Why is vaccination needed?

On a global scale, plum grafting in the spring is an additional activity. Tree trimming, processing and everything else is a must.

Vaccination is done optionally in order to:

- rejuvenate an old tree. When the trunk is still in good condition, young shoots will eventually replace the old branches;

- get a variety with other qualities. Be that as it may, if the rootstock (this is where they are grafted) and the scion (what is grafted) are different, the first will always transfer some qualities to the second;

— grow different subspecies of plums on one tree. On the one hand, this is interesting. On the other hand, it is convenient when there are different fruits on one tree. Thirdly, why not experiment and have, say, cherries and plums in one “person” in your garden;

- increase productivity and ease of use of plantings. As an option, grafting a plum onto a felt cherry. The trees turn out to be relatively short, they begin to bear fruit earlier, plus the yield is higher.

But again, all these recommendations are only for those who have a desire to make the garden more interesting and better.

Plum grafting: optimal timing

We don't discuss winter. Spring, summer, autumn - these are the periods suitable for working in the garden with grafting material. This is, if in principle. In fact, plum grafting in spring is preferable. In the spring, increased movement of sap begins, the trees begin to grow, and the scions take root well. In the fall, it is not prohibited to improve plum plantings. Everything will be fine, provided that the cuttings have enough time to take root on the rootstock before winter. Summer is neither good nor bad. There is enough time before frost, however, a tree formed in spring does not quite like summer procedures. It turns out, based on the characteristics of each period, the best time for vaccination is spring.

What type of vaccination should I choose?

Grafting a plum and grafting an apple tree, or any other fruit tree, are no different. The same tools, the same general rules for vaccinations. So to make it clear what we are talking about, let’s briefly consider the main types.

1. Copulation – carried out when the thickness of the rootstock and scion is the same.

2. Improved copulation - the principle is the same, only an additional cut is made on the handle for better contact of the cambium (core of the tree).

3. Budding - a type of grafting with one cut bud. Unlike all other types, it can be performed with equal success in both spring and summer.

4. In a split - when a thin scion is split in the center onto a cut full-fledged branch or trunk.

5. There is almost a split under the bark, the cutting is fixed to the side of the rootstock.

6. In a corner cut - requires a certain skill and experience from the gardener.

In terms of survival rate, if everything is done as it should, budding and everything else are the same. The choice of type of vaccination depends on what you ultimately need to get. For example, the first three types allow you to improve and diversify the plum. The rest are more suitable for rejuvenation.

How to prepare cuttings?

A crucial moment in the life of any gardener before planting a plum tree in the spring in any form. At first it seems that working with cuttings consists only of attaching them to the rootstock. Everything is a little different. To achieve a positive result the first time, the cutting must be cut correctly, stored correctly and used on time. To simplify the situation, if someone knows an apple tree but not a plum tree, the preparation and preservation of cuttings is carried out according to the same rules.

The main stages of work with grafting material are as follows:

— timely pruning of young shoots;

— ensuring optimal storage conditions;

— proper spring preparation of cuttings;

— timely holding of spring events.

The only exception in vaccinations is budding. The bud is never harvested for future use; it is cut off from the shoot and immediately identified as a rootstock.

Of course, no job is without its nuances. If the grafting is carried out using a cutting, you don’t have to prepare it, but combine business with pleasure. Cut the cuttings not for the winter, but in the spring during the planned clearing of excess growth from trees. Scions are obtained in such a quantity when they are not selected, but sorted out.

Rootstock. Nuances of choice

You can graft a plum tree onto anything, but then depending on your luck. If the tree species are compatible in their characteristics, the cutting will develop; if not, then it’s not fate. Only this approach to business is more common among novice gardeners. Any grafting of a fruit tree is carried out either on the same or similar. Plum is no exception. Grafting plum onto plum is an ideal option in every way. But sometimes there are not enough “free” plum trees in the garden. It’s okay if cherry plum grows on the site. The solution to the situation is not ideal, but almost close to it.

Apricots also take plum grafts well. The only thing is to avoid falling on a spoiled apricot rootstock, you need to carefully choose the grafting site.

“Crossing” a plum cutting and a felt cherry rootstock works well. The tree grows short, easy to “use”, and begins to bear fruit earlier. Felt cherries can easily be replaced by wild cherries. The only drawback of weak-growing rootstocks is that the fruits on them grow somewhat smaller. But due to the growing conditions, for example, problematic soil, such “hybrids” are very picky. They grow where an ordinary plum doesn’t particularly like to grow.

One last thing to note. Before grafting cuttings or buds onto a plum tree in the spring, it is advisable to take not the first ones that come along, but well-developed ones, without obvious diseases. The grafting material will be of high quality, the procedure was carried out correctly, and any difficulties during the survival period are unlikely to arise. Whether or not to care about a plum orchard in terms of grafting is up to each gardener to decide for himself.

How to prepare grafting material

They try to prepare the grafting material in the fall, when sap flow ends. During the winter, cut branches can be stored in a cool place, but without freezing. Experienced gardeners use basements where the temperature in the coldest period does not fall below +1...3 ⁰С.

Before storing for 10...15 minutes, the branches are placed in a light pink solution of potassium permanganate. Then use a plastic bag. Do not tie tightly to allow air to enter.

branches are inspected;
remove rotted and mold-damaged;
Select cuttings that have 4...5 buds with a diameter of 7...12 mm.

Features of grafting scion onto plum

There are several basic principles that should be followed in any way of doing work.

A sharp knife is used; it is advisable to remove all existing burrs on the blade.
It is necessary to prepare a solution of potassium permanganate (dark pink solution).
The work is completed as quickly as possible. It is advisable that the surfaces do not have time to become covered with a film.
You need to have gloves on your hands. When working, it is not recommended to touch the soil or any contaminants that may be on the cut surface.
You need to have a garden var.
To protect plants after damage is caused, tape and tape are used. They also fix the elements together.
For large fragments, use polyethylene film. It is attached with electrical tape, scotch tape or strong twines.
Some gardeners use masking tape. It has a porous structure and can stretch. It is also easy to remove when no longer needed.

Attention! It is advisable to carry out vaccination on cloudy days. In hot weather and rain, it is advisable to avoid work. The likelihood of a negative result increases.

Grafting of plum and apricot

When you visit a passionate gardener, especially during the harvest season, it’s as if you’re on a holiday! Joyful, amazing, beautiful, and it is clear that behind all this splendor there is a lot of work.

The basic rule is that stone fruits are grafted onto stone fruits, and pome crops are grafted onto pome crops. However, in addition to this simple condition, it is also necessary to take into account the peculiarities of interspecific compatibility of plants, the variety, the quality and characteristics of the rootstock and scion, the timing of grafting, weather and many other factors that, if not taken into account, can reduce all the efforts of the gardener to nothing. The age of the plant is also important - young trees (up to 5-10 years) are easily and reliably grafted. The younger the plant, the higher the plasticity of its tissues.

Grafting of apricot onto wild apricot

The easiest way is to graft an apricot onto a wild apricot - this rootstock for plums and apricots was considered the best by the natural scientist Lev Platonovich Simirenko (1855-1920). Such a rootstock does not produce root shoots of its own (unlike plum or cherry plum trunks, which are annually overgrown with root shoots), is surprisingly winter-hardy and at the same time very drought-resistant. Contrary to the popular belief that apricots freeze out in the middle zone, they feel great even in Siberia, right up to the permafrost zone - the tap root of the plant goes into the frozen soil to a depth of several meters.

Although such a rootstock is ideal in Siberian conditions, for the middle zone it is necessary to take into account the danger of death of the apricot trunk due to overheating. The fact is that in Siberia the long, harsh winter is practically not interrupted by thaws, so characteristic of the European part of the Russian Federation. Due to the climatic conditions of the middle zone, it often happens that a wild apricot, which has a very short growing season, wakes up during the thaw period and begins to actively breathe with its root collar covered with snow, begins to suffocate, and then there is severe frost, about 20 degrees. Apricot does not experience such a cataclysm survives, the bark of its root collar becomes warm (subsequently it becomes brown, slimy and has an unpleasant musty odor), and the plant dies.

To preserve an apricot or plum grafted onto a wild Siberian or Manchurian apricot, experienced gardeners try to plant the plant higher, on a mound, and shovel snow away from the root collar. In addition, when planting, you should mix the soil with sand and stones in a 1:1 ratio, then it will quickly freeze (which is desirable for apricots) and quickly warm up. But the risk, of course, remains - winters without thaws are rare in the middle zone.

Apricot grafting onto local apricot varieties

For this region, the most reliable rootstock is local apricot varieties or hybrids with Manchurian wildflower. In the Moscow region, in the Main Botanical Garden, varieties have been bred - from early to late, adapted to the conditions of the middle zone: the early variety of East Siberian apricot by I.L. Baikalov (fruits already in July), towards the end of July - beginning of August they begin to bear fruit Iceberg, Michurinsky, Tsarsky, Irina, Levitsky, and at the end of August the late varieties Favorit and Monastyrsky ripen. It is known that the self-fertility of apricot (i.e., self-pollination) is low, but if there are several varieties flowering at the same time (including those grafted on the same tree), cross-pollination occurs.

Grafting of apricot onto plum and cherry plum

If the soil on your site is acidic, then experts recommend growing apricot on the rootstock of plum, Russian plum (also called hybrid cherry plum) or ordinary cherry plum (however, not all varieties of apricot go well with it). Ussuri plum is also a good rootstock for apricot.

Apricots grown on frost-resistant plum rootstock usually feel good. There is practically no growth at the grafting site, which indicates good tissue compatibility. Some gardeners welcome the appearance of plum root shoots, because... Always have material for the next vaccinations at hand.

The roots of the plum are more superficial, and therefore it feels good even on swampy soil, but for the same reason it does not tolerate drought well. It is on the plum rootstock that the “miracle tree” is most often grown, grafting a variety of stone fruit varieties (for example: apricot, felt cherry, Russian plum) into the skeletal branches of the plum.

As a rule, varieties with low frost resistance are grafted onto the skeletal branches of the plum crown, no closer than 30 cm from the trunk, and then the southern heat-loving variety develops well and bears fruit without freezing. However, such a variety should not be too far from its natural climatic conditions. For example, you shouldn’t try to grow an Asian variety in the middle zone, but a variety from your neighboring region is quite suitable.

Apricot grafting onto sloe

Most gardeners recommend grafting damsons onto wild thorn rootstocks, and then grafting cultivated varieties of plums or apricots onto the damsons. This results in a so-called “insertion” graft. However, keep in mind that you will have a stubborn, annual fight against root growth. Although you don’t have to be upset about this, but on the contrary, be happy - a beautiful annual, highly viable rootstock grows back free of charge every year!

Rare rootstocks for apricot

Apricot grows well on peach, but it is not a frost-resistant rootstock, and therefore such grafting is widespread mainly outside the CIS. In arid regions, mainly in Central Asia, almond seedlings are used as rootstocks.

Plum rootstock – sand cherry

Of course, plum varieties are best grafted into the crown of a plum tree. Sand cherry (Besseya), widespread in the Far East and Siberia, is also of great interest as a rootstock. Excellent frost resistance, drought resistance, deep and well-branched root system, excellent compatibility with plum and apricot scion, no root growth. Queen cells planted on Bessey rootstocks are a godsend for those who grow seedlings for sale - grafted cuttings grow a meter per year!

The problem with this rootstock is the same as with the wild apricot - the root collar is underscored due to the fact that the bush confuses the winter thaw with spring and begins to actively respire ahead of time. In addition, when grafting vigorous varieties onto sand cherries, they will need support.

Grafting plum onto apricot

If you plan to graft a plum onto an apricot rootstock, you should keep in mind that not all varieties of plums take root on apricots. Experts recommend Renclod plums as the most compatible with apricot rootstock. In addition, the varieties Hungarian Moldovan, Peach, Altana, Bave, Anna Shpet, Kirk, Jefferson, and Grand Duke are also able to take root on apricots. There is an opinion that plum trees on apricot rootstock produce larger and tastier fruits compared to ordinary plum trees.

Grafting plum onto sloe

Using blackthorn as a rootstock is a great idea: it is extremely frost-resistant and tenacious. In addition, on the thorn rootstock there is no cracking of the trunk (which often happens with apricot rootstock), there is no growth at the grafting site, it is even and smooth. If the sloe is large-fruited, then this is an ideal option for grafting plums and apricots; the trees after such grafting turn out to be dwarf and do not produce shoots.

Grafting a plum onto a felt cherry

There is another option to graft plum onto felt cherry - a shrub densely strewn with fruits. The survival rate is quite high, but the difficulty lies in the fragility of the branches, therefore, especially if the harvest has not been rationed, it is better to strengthen the plant on a trellis, especially since the rootstock has a low “anchority” due to the weak root system. Another drawback is that felt cherry does not tolerate severe frosts, so in winter it is necessary to insulate it and cover it with spruce branches.

How to properly preserve cuttings?

Stone fruit cuttings are preserved directly in the snow. It is best to take a box 40-45 cm high, pour a layer of snow mixed with coniferous sawdust or moss on the bottom, then put the cuttings wrapped in cotton cloth and pour another 20 cm layer of snow with sawdust in a 1:1 ratio. Place this box on the north side of the barn or house and cover it with snow.

Plum cuttings are more or less unpretentious, but apricot cuttings are almost doomed if they experience a sharp temperature change once or twice. In the thermos box, the temperature changes smoothly, without jumps. Sometimes they ask why cuttings cannot be taken in the spring. The main reason is freezing of annual growth, which can negate all the efforts of the gardener.

You can start grafting already in March, in the snow, but most gardeners advise waiting until the moment when the rootstock awakens and its buds swell, i.e. the beginning of active sap flow. Another sign of the readiness of the rootstock is the moisture and green color of the cambium layer. It can be assessed by cutting and pulling the bark.

The grafted cuttings must be dormant, green, and healthy - without mold or signs of drying out. Try bending the cutting - if it bends easily, it means it has a fairly high viability. The evening before vaccination, you can update the cut and place the cuttings in water with a drug diluted in accordance with the instructions that enhances survival (an example of such substances is Ribav Extra ). There is also an opinion that a drop of honey diluted in a glass of water is a completely alternative replacement for such drugs. Prepared cuttings can be grafted from March to May, until the buds on the trees open.

Basic conditions for success

Remember that grafting is a minor surgical operation for plants, so be careful and ensure sterility. With due diligence, the success rate of vaccinations using grafting pruners reaches 90% or more! It is best to fix the grafting site with a self-destructive tape specially designed for this purpose, which does not pinch the tissue and makes it easy to monitor the fusion.

I wish you abundant harvests, and may everything grow together for you!

What can be grafted onto a plum tree and how is this procedure performed?

You can speed up the fruiting of plums after planting and significantly improve the taste characteristics of the grown crop by grafting a seedling. This grafting is performed in the first few years after planting. The simplicity of this operation allows it to be carried out by all summer residents and gardeners without exception.

Grafting of shrubs and fruit trees is one of the methods of propagation, in which the base seedling and a branch from an already fruit-bearing tree are mutually fused. Carrying out this procedure can significantly speed up the time for the onset of the first fruiting, and also improves the taste of the resulting crop. Interspecific vaccinations are possible, which allows you to get an excellent harvest. In this article we will tell you what can be grafted onto a plum tree and how this procedure is performed.

Purposes of plum grafting

Even if optimal growing conditions are created, we will be able to see the first fruits on a plum tree only 8-10 years after planting. Whereas grafting plums and other fruit-bearing crops onto a three-year-old seedling in the spring will allow you to get the first harvest two years after this operation. Grafting significantly improves the base variety, giving it improved taste characteristics. Among other things, it is much easier to get a cutting for propagation than to purchase a whole tree of the variety you like.

Grafting different varieties on the same plum will allow you to improve the diversity of your harvest. At the same time, you save land area. Up to four different varieties can be grafted onto one plum tree.

In this case, it is possible to transplant not only various plums, but also apricots, cherry plums, cherries or other fruit trees. The gardener, having completed the grafting, gets the opportunity to replace the unsuccessful variety with a new species, the taste of which completely suits the summer resident.

Often grafting is the only way to preserve the variety of plum or other fruit trees you like. For example, if the tree is damaged by sunburn, rodents, or improper care. In this case, saving the tree itself will be problematic, but by cutting cuttings from it and grafting them onto a strong, healthy plum, you can save your favorite variety.

Also very popular is the propagation of exotic trees that are difficult to care for and unsuitable for our climatic conditions. For example, you can graft apricots onto plum trees, which would be difficult to grow from a tree yourself. After a few years, you will be able to get an excellent harvest of apricots with excellent taste.

Plum budding

The most widely used grafting method today is budding, which combines the simplicity of the technology for performing this operation and the excellent survival rate of cuttings. Every amateur gardener can successfully perform such a grafting.

When budding, a single bud (eye) taken from a fruiting tree is used. Such an eye is grafted onto a branch or directly onto the trunk of a plum tree. The success of the budding largely depends on the quality of the eyes used. They are taken from cuttings that were formed last summer.

This plum grafting is carried out in the spring and literally a month after budding, the planted bud begins to grow. If budding is carried out in the summer, then it is necessary to use buds that have already matured in the current season. They are cut off immediately before the transplant operation.

Benefits of plum budding

One of the advantages of budding is the minimal grafting area, so the base tree (rootstock) is not injured and quickly regains strength after grafting. If the planted bud does not take root, you can immediately carry out a new budding.

A minimum of graft material is used. Therefore, you can easily purchase several eyes, which will allow you to get three to four sprout points. The budding procedure itself is not difficult; it only takes a few minutes.

Plum budding can be carried out twice a year during active sap flow. The best time is early spring, when the buds are just beginning to grow. The next period for vaccination begins in the second half of summer. At this time, the tree bark peels off easily, which simplifies the procedure.

In spring, cambium cells rapidly divide, which increases the likelihood of survival of the planted eyes. Please note that there are other vaccination technologies that allow this operation to be carried out from spring to late autumn.

Preparation of cuttings and their storage

Preparations need to begin in the fall. It is at this time that the shoots need to be prepared. Cuttings are taken after the leaves fall. Harvesting shoots can also be done in the spring, but this must be done before the swollen buds appear.

Annual shoots are subject to cutting. Step-by-step instructions for beginners will help you do this correctly. Cut out shoots from the top or middle part of the crown. Not suitable for budding:

tops;
old shoots.

If you plan to chip the plum in the spring, then after harvesting in the fall, the branches are stored in the garden underground or in a cellar in wet sand. If the harvest is made before the buds swell, then the shoots are placed in a plastic bag to avoid drying out.

Important!

Properly cut shoots remain fresh, but do not have open buds.

Requirements for the scion and rootstock used

Let's now talk about the requirements for the rootstock and scion. Often, the success of budding depends on compliance with such requirements.

When budding plums, it is recommended to use shoots with a diameter of no more than 15 millimeters.

The rootstock should have elastic and young bark, which makes it easy to cut with a sharp knife.

For budding, smooth, even internodes that do not have knots or swellings are selected.

Buds are suitable for budding only when they are fully mature and well developed.

How to prepare cuttings

To prepare cuttings, it is recommended to perform the following steps:

choose a healthy fruit-bearing tree 3-10 years old;
use strong shoots 1 year old for the scion;
cut cuttings from the shoot - it is recommended to keep it suspended without touching the cut area;
cuttings should have short internodes;
their diameter should be no more than 7 millimeters;
There should be at least 4-5 buds on the scion.

It is recommended to tie the prepared cuttings with twine. It is worth attaching a label indicating the plant variety.

What can be grafted onto a plum tree?

Many gardeners are confident that only closely related species and varieties can be grafted onto each other. However, in reality, grafting can be successful even when combining tree species that are radically different from each other. So, for example, you can successfully graft cherries, cherries, apricots or peaches onto plums.

Subsequently, from the grown tree you can get an excellent harvest of peaches or apricots. Intergeneric vaccinations are not complicated, and planted cuttings take root well and quickly begin to grow. At the same time, it must be said that vaccinations are easiest to carry out within one species.

Therefore, if you do not have practical experience in such work, we recommend that you perform grafting within the first season within one species, and then, having gained experience, you will be able to splice cuttings and base trees of various genera.

Stone fruit trees take root well with plums. At the same time, experienced gardeners recommend using not varietal plums, but their wild variants. Such wild plums are characterized by increased resistance to our cold climate, so the cultivated tree will be strong and resistant to unfavorable growing conditions. Felt cherry takes root perfectly with plum trees.

Why are trees grafted?

If you plant a plum seed, a seedling will appear the next year. Its properties will depend not only on the variety from which the seed was obtained. The properties of the second parent (the producer of pollen involved in pollination of the mother plant) will certainly be present. Most often, effective pollination occurs not within a variety, but when one is pollinated by another.

A new genetic set in a growing tree rarely gives the desired properties. Typically, when cross-pollinated, plants tend to return to their original form. Only with the targeted artificial creation of a new variety can the desired properties be achieved.

A seedling without grafting begins to bloom and bear fruit no earlier than the fifth to seventh year after the sprout appears. Fruiting is delayed for a long time. If you graft a one-year-old seedling and use a fruit-bearing branch as a scion, then after a year the new tree will begin to bear its first fruits. The mechanism for fruiting will begin much earlier.

grow fruit trees of a certain variety with predetermined properties;
get a harvest from seedlings in the shortest possible time;
using different types of rootstocks to obtain tall and dwarf trees. On a winter-hardy rootstock, obtain planting material that can withstand severe frosts;
expand the distribution range of heat-loving plants in areas where certain types of trees were not previously expected to be grown.

Attention! By grafting plants, you can have an effective garden with a wide variety of varieties.

Peach plum grafting

Grafting a peach onto a plum will produce a frost-resistant tree that will bear fruit in its fifth or sixth year. Under favorable conditions and using a high-quality rootstock, you can get your first harvest of peaches in the fourth year.

Grafting a peach is not difficult. You just need to find high-quality seed material. In this case, both peach eyes and a small stalk with several leaves can be used.

The entire operation is carried out using a sharp budding knife. They need to make a cut on the plum, pull back the bark and insert a peach stalk or eye into the cut. Then tie it tightly with plastic tape. After a month, the scion will begin to grow and the protective tape can be removed.

Plum grafting is a great way to speed up fruiting and get an excellent varietal harvest. It is also possible to budding varietal cherries, peaches, apricots and other horticultural crops. You only need to choose the right varietal material, which will allow you to successfully carry out this procedure.