How to properly prune a plum in the fall: features of autumn pruning, patterns and timing

Pruning fruit trees is an important agrotechnical activity.
The main goals are tree rejuvenation, sanitary prevention of diseases, crown formation. Dear readers!
For you, we have created communities on social networks in which useful articles and interesting ideas are published several times a day! Subscribe and receive useful content in a convenient format! Plum also requires autumn filing.

In today's article we will discuss the main purposes of plum pruning, patterns and timing of the event in the fall.

Why prune plum trees in the fall?

There are several reasons to prune plum trees in the fall:

• increasing productivity. When there are too many branches on a tree, a lot of nutrients are wasted. Pruning allows you to redirect these microelements to the formation of plums;
• reducing crown density. A plum crown that is too lush makes the tree weaker. It tolerates cold worse. In addition, the branches create a shadow inside the crown, which negatively affects the formation of fruits;
• sanitary purposes. Some shoots may be infected with parasitic larvae or mycelium of pathogenic fungi. To prevent the spread of the disease throughout the tree, such branches need to be sawed off and burned in the fall.

Need for pruning

The plum crown is formed up to 15 years, and then only dry and diseased branches are cut off, without touching the young shoots. If you follow this rule, the tree will bear fruit even in old age. First of all, plum formation and pruning are carried out to increase the yield.

A thickened crown will not have a positive effect on the yield and overall condition of the tree. Tangled branches create a shadow, which interferes with the ripening of fruits. Plums that do not receive sunlight become small and not tasty.

The tree itself loses its immunity, becomes sensitive to cold, so in winter frosts it can simply freeze. First, plum pruning is carried out during planting, and then it is organized every year throughout the life of the tree.

When to prune plums in the fall, choosing the right time

Plum trees are pruned quite early in the fall. The procedure is carried out as soon as the leaves fall. The approximate period is from mid-September to mid-October.

This period is due to the fact that the tree still needs time to prepare for winter. And pruning too late can lead to freezing of the crop.

ON A NOTE. It is better to carry out pruning in the fall on a dry, sunny day, since wet wood is less likely to be sawed. You get jams and chips.

When should pruning be done in spring?

Spring pruning of plums is a very important manipulation; in most cases it is recommended to do it at the beginning of the season. This is primarily due to the fact that the culture is prone to gum development. The optimal period is chosen based on weather conditions, taking into account several factors:

• the forecast excludes frosts, even at night;
• the buds on the tree have not yet begun to bloom;
• The weather is dry and windless.

Usually the suitable period falls from the last ten days of March to mid-April. However, depending on the regional location and general climatic conditions, the timing may be changed in one direction or another.

Classification of plum pruning

There are several varieties of plum pruning in the fall.

Sanitary pruning

It is carried out every year 3 years after planting a plum seedling.

In the fall, it is necessary to saw off old, dry, diseased, broken branches. Sanitary pruning also includes removing branches that grow inside the crown and branches that are too close to each other.

Anti-aging pruning with height limitation

Thanks to this pruning, the development of side shoots is activated.

The algorithm is like this:

1. The height of the tree is limited to 2 - 2.5 m.
2. Dry branches are cut out, as well as those that grow inside the crown.
3. Other branches are cut by a third per bud.
4. All root shoots are removed.

Regulatory pruning for fruiting

This is the most balanced type of pruning in the fall. You simultaneously create a beautiful crown for the tree and regulate the yield.

The buds at the base of the tree are removed, shoots and fattening branches are broken off.

On young trees, pinch the top above the 5th bud.

Tiered-sparse crown

The most popular type of plum pruning.

The method will be extended over several years. Young trees form skeletal branches, leaving only those shoots that grow in different directions.

This is how branches are cut at each new level.

As a result, the crown allows light and air to pass through well, and many fruits form on the branches.

Bush formation

Plum can be used for decorative purposes and formed into a bush.

In this case, the tree is pruned twice per season: in summer and autumn.

Forming the bowl

1. In the year of planting, everything that is above the fifth or seventh bud is cut off.
2. Next, shoots are selected. Leave those that grow at an angle of 60 or 90 degrees relative to the trunk. An important clarification: branches should be no lower than 40 cm from the soil level, but not higher than half a meter.
3. In subsequent years, the old shoots are pruned and branches of the next order grow on them.

Adviсe

When pruning in spring, do not touch the central part. It is necessary to trim the side branches in such a way that they do not interfere with others.

• Spring pruning is better than autumn pruning.
• Young trees should not remove branches too much. It is enough to remove a few main branches.
• When it begins to bear fruit, it is not worth pruning.
• Tools must be sharp and disinfected.
• Every wound needs to be treated.
• It is prohibited to leave stumps.
• If the branch was more than three centimeters, you need to give it five days to dry.
• Do not prune at sub-zero temperatures.
• If the leaves of the plum tree begin to bloom, then you can no longer prune it.
• Old trees need to be pruned before young ones in the spring.
• In summer, you can trim off only unnecessary growth.
• Diseased branches are removed as soon as they are detected.
• Major pruning work can be postponed until autumn only in warm regions.
• In autumn, only sanitary treatment usually occurs.
• The rejuvenation procedure should be carried out within 4-5 years. If you remove all unnecessary branches at once, the tree may become sick.
• Usually branches are cut at about 60 cm. They need to be cut to 15 cm.

Young branches should be removed with a knife or pruning shears, and old and thick branches with a saw.

Pruning helps improve the immunity of trees. This procedure must be carried out on time. Tools must be well processed and sharpened. The cut area needs to be processed

Methods for shaping plums

There are 3 main ways to shape plums in the fall: on a ring, on a bud and on a shoot.

Let's take a closer look at them.

On the ring

The essence of the method is to trim the plum branch so that a “ring” is formed at the shoot site.

This method of filing is necessary to remove excess shoots. Pruning is carried out along the annular bead, but in such a way that a stump does not form.

On the kidney

Pruning on a bud in the fall is done in order to direct the growth of shoots in the desired direction in the spring and form a crown.

Pruning is carried out on one-year-old shoots. Cut the branch at an angle of 45 degrees just above the bud, which faces in the direction we need.

To the side escape

In this case, branches are cut down from the old crown.

This method is necessary in order to stimulate the development of new side shoots on the plum.

By filing a side shoot, you can extend the fruiting period of a plum tree by several years.

Pruning columnar plum

Columnar plum is distinguished by the almost complete absence of lateral shoots. Their length does not exceed 15–20 cm. Therefore, pruning in this case is kept to a minimum. Basically, the gardener will be required to remove branches damaged by frost, pests, gusts of wind, and so on.

The crown of the columnar plum consists of very short shoots, so it does not require special shaping

Under no circumstances should you touch the central conductor of such trees; the growth point is located there. Otherwise, the plum will begin to branch and gradually turn into an ordinary tree, albeit with a lower yield.

Thanks to the characteristic crown configuration, the columnar plum looks very impressive and takes up very little space in the garden.

The only exception is if the apical bud is seriously damaged by frost. As a rule, in this case, on a columnar plum tree, 2–3 additional shoots are formed near the top. You can immediately select one of them, the most powerful, and delete the rest. There is another option - wait another season to see which branch will develop more actively. This will become clear next spring, when they reach a length of 20–25 cm. Unnecessary shoots are cut off (this is quite suitable material for grafting), the remaining one replaces the central conductor.

Pruning plums in the fall - diagrams for beginners in pictures step by step

The algorithm for pruning plum trees in the fall is quite simple. For a beginner, it is better to use the simplest scheme.

• We cut off dry branches, as well as those shoots that interfere with each other and have broken off due to the wind and the weight of the fruit.

• We optionally trim the top if it has grown too long.
• We prune competing branches. These are shoots that grow in one direction and interfere with each other. We also cut out those branches that grow inside the crown.

• During the first pruning, the trunk is shortened by a third, and the skeletal branches by two thirds.

• Finally, we prune the branches that are growing too quickly. This will relieve the plum crown.

• We treat the cuts with garden varnish.
• We feed the tree and mulch the tree trunk.

Purpose of pruning

Plum trees need pruning for a number of reasons:

• the appearance of the tree is more neat and tidy;
• maintaining a stable annual harvest;
• increasing the number of young shoots;
• ridding the tree of old dry branches;
• young shoots receive more nutrients. In the photo you can study in more detail the entire step-by-step process of plum pruning.

Before you start work, you need to prepare the tools: stepladder, garden pitcher, pruning shears and, of course, gloves. A hacksaw will be needed to cut thick branches. Anti-aging pruning is carried out after ten to fifteen years of the tree’s life.

Annual pruning is carried out a couple of years after planting the tree. It is necessary to remove dry, non-viable branches. There are two types of pruning:

• on a bud, cut the branch half a centimeter away from the tree bud;
• onto the ring, the branch is cut off completely so that only a smooth surface remains.

How to prune a young plum in the fall

Sawing of a young plum begins already in the first year of planting the tree.

Usually the top is shortened to stimulate the growth of side shoots and stop the tree from growing upward.

IMPORTANT! You cannot saw off more than a third of the seedling.

Experienced summer residents advise cutting off all shoots that are below the 0.5 m mark.

They leave branches that grow in different directions. This way they will not interfere with each other and will form a beautiful crown.

Formation of the crown of a young plum tree by year

If you planted a plum tree in the garden, then it will take several years to form a crown. Pruning a plum tree from the first year after planting will help the young seedling acquire the desired shape, get rid of excess weight and help the roots properly nourish the young specimen.

Pruning rules

First, the lower branches of the plum are cut down to well-developed buds. They are cut to the first or second bud, shortened by half the length. There should be 5-6 buds left on the branches.

Then the top shoot of the plum is cut off if you have already decided on the shape of the crown. Gardeners most often make a bowl shape or sparsely tiered.

In the second year, spring pruning is carried out, when those branches that thicken the crown are removed. The main shoot is cut 15 cm above the second bud. It comes after the one that was cleaned up last year.

In subsequent seasons, you can trim off anything that thickens the crown, is tangled, broken, or damaged by pests. All shoots that have grown this season are cut to ⅓ of their length.

As soon as the tree grows to 2.5-3 m, the top is removed so that it does not grow higher. It is also necessary to cut off the shoots coming from the bottom of the trunk every year if you do not plan to propagate the plum tree.

Sparsely tiered

Such a crown is formed from 5–7 skeletal branches, which grow evenly between two or three tiers. The first tier begins to be created already during planting, if the plums have not only a conductive trunk, but also branches growing on the sides. Most often these are two-year-old plums.

In the 2nd year of life, the plum needs sanitary pruning and shearing to form a crown. The branches that have grown in last year are cut back by half, leaving them up to half a meter long. These branches form the 2nd and 3rd tiers (there are 2–3 branches on the skeletal branches).

If the branches have been growing for many years and their length is less than 60 cm, then they are not pruned. In the spring of the 3rd year of life, sanitary and regulatory treatment of the plum is carried out again, that is, the formation of the crown and shape of the entire plant continues.

In the third year, the tops and all shoots growing inside the crown are removed. There is no need to touch the horizontal branches; it is on them that the ovaries appear.

The sparsely tiered form of the bush of the fruit crop is formed on a trunk, the height of which is 60 or 80 cm. The crown of the three-year-old tree consists of 3–4 sparse tiers. Their spacing between branches is 15–20 cm.

The height of a tree with a sparsely tiered crown should be no more than 2 meters. In subsequent years, the tree will require sanitary treatment of the plum and cutting off the growth from the previous year.

Autumn pruning of old plums

On old plums, the crown is formed up to the fifteenth anniversary. Next, the tree is completely cut down, freeing up space for new seedlings, or only sanitary pruning is carried out.

Old plum trees have large branches that can break off from snow and wind. They are cut to approximately 30% of their length.

Also in the fall, all shoots that have been damaged or broken are cut down. Be sure to remove dry branches. All this will protect the plum from freezing.

However, try not to overdo it. The loss of a large number of shoots can lead to the death of the plant. It is better to spread the pruning over several years, sawing off several large branches per year.

IMPORTANT! Sawn shoots must be burned.

Types and techniques of autumn plum cutting

The cutting technique is selected depending on the diameter of the branches that need to be removed. On thin growths of the current year, a haircut is carried out “on the bud”. This gives the branches the correct direction of growth and allows the plant to form new fruiting rings. The essence of the procedure is as follows: first, select a bud located on the desired side of the shoot. Then, stepping back 5 mm from it, a cut is made. The optimal tilt angle is 45 degrees. If these requirements are not met, bacteria may accumulate at the base of the kidney. Over time, the shoot will begin to hurt or dry out completely.

When it is necessary to remove an entire branch, the cut is made “on the ring” (an influx at the base of the shoot). A pruner or hacksaw is held so that the cutting part is located near the trunk. You need to cut from top to bottom, moving parallel to the trunk. This way the cut will be even and smooth, without stumps and burrs.

Many people are interested in how to prune a plum tree in the fall if the tree has very large branches. In this case, they act according to the following algorithm:

1. First stage. The branch is cut down to 1/3 of its thickness. This will help prevent the bark from scuffing on the trunk.
2. Second phase. You need to cut from above, slightly retreating from the lower projection of the cut.
3. Third stage. The resulting branch is cut into a ring.

The cuts made with a hacksaw are carefully cleaned with a knife. Next, they are allowed to dry for 2–3 hours and covered with garden varnish.

What tools are needed to carry out the procedure correctly?

To make it convenient to work and cause the least harm to the plum, you need to prepare a working tool.

You will need gloves as plums have short, sharp shoots that can scratch your hands. For the same reason, we recommend using safety glasses and working in overalls.

You may need a stepladder if you are working with a mature plum tree.

Useful cutting tools include garden pruning shears, a hacksaw, and a lopper.

IMPORTANT! All tools must be well sharpened!

Also prepare paste or garden varnish, since the cuts must be processed. Untreated cuts can easily become a source of disease infection.

What tools will you need?

Pruning fruit trees in autumn is not possible without quality tools. To work you will need:

• pruner - cuts young shoots up to 1 cm in diameter. There are also more “advanced” models that can cope with branches up to 3 cm thick;
• lopper Designed to eliminate adult plum branches located at the top of the tree. Using such a tool, you can cut shoots in inaccessible places (for example, inside the crown);
• garden hacksaw - helps to remove the thickest branches, with a diameter of over 5 cm. Its teeth have an unusual sharpening and arrangement, which allows you to cut raw wood;
• Pruner - used for cutting branches at a height of more than 2 m. Essentially, this is the same pruner, but on a long rod. The knife cuts the shoot when the string tied to it is pulled.

The tool must be sharpened well: flattened sections with burrs take a long time to heal. You will also need a stepladder and gloves made of thick fabric - the trunks and perennial branches of plum trees have short spurs that injure your hands.

To disinfect fresh sections you will need copper sulfate. After disinfection, they are covered with drying oil paint. Alternatively, the saw cuts can be treated with a garden varnish made from pork fat, wax, rosin and 1/4 part of linseed oil. This composition is applied to wounds larger than 1 cm. Small cuts do not require protection - they will heal on their own.

Caring for plums after pruning

After work, the plum needs to be properly cared for so that pruning does not cause disease or even death of the tree.

Therefore, you will need garden pitch or paste. It is used to process cuts of all branches with a diameter greater than 3 cm.

It is also advisable to feed the plum after the procedure. For this purpose, potassium fertilizers and phosphates are used. Most often it is superphosphate and potassium chloride.

Mix 3 tablespoons of superphosphate and 2 tablespoons of potassium chloride in a bucket of water. Water the tree trunk circle with this mixture. After which mulching is carried out.

Pruning plum depending on the growing region

If it is necessary to monitor the condition of the tree and prune the plum tree in spring before the buds open, the manipulation should begin with old trees. This is due to their early awakening. Subsequently, all other plants on the site are trimmed.

Estimated dates for the start of pruning by region are as follows:

• central Russia (in the Moscow region, Leningrad region) - late March, April;
• northern regions (in Siberia, the Urals) - no earlier than May;
• the southern part of Russia (in the Krasnodar Territory, in Crimea) - from the end of March to mid-April.

Once you know exactly when you can prune, it's important to set aside time for it. All manipulations must be completed 28-30 days before the expected bud break.

Common mistakes

Let's figure out what novice gardeners most often make mistakes when pruning plum trees in the fall.

• Pruning the plum tree is done too late. It is necessary to saw off excess branches at least a month before the onset of cold weather. This is exactly how long it takes for a plum to “lick its wounds.” If pruning is done too late, the tree may die.
• The plum is sawn until the leaves fall off. Pruning during the growing season is a lot of stress for the tree. Any mistake made can lead to drying out of the tree.
• Sloppy cuts. To reduce the risk of injury to cuts, they must be done very carefully. Avoid chipping. If you are cutting a thick branch, make a small cut from the bottom first. Be sure to use well-sharpened garden tools (lopper, hacksaw, pruning shears, garden shears).
• In the fall, too many branches are cut at once. Because of this, the tree may die. Do not file many branches at once. It’s better to spread out rejuvenation over several seasons.
• The cuts are not treated with garden varnish. An untreated cut is a potentially dangerous place. Through it, an infection can enter the tree.
• Pruning is carried out haphazardly. Do not file down all the shoots in a row. Clearly imagine the scheme according to which you carry out the work.

When to prune a plum tree

Plum trimming is a mandatory procedure. When is the best time to do this work?

It is recommended to prune the plum in two stages: first, the crown is thinned, then the shoots that grew last year are shortened. This stimulates the development of new shoots.

Pruning plum trees in spring for beginners

If you organize plum pruning in the spring, then this must be done a month before the buds begin to “wake up.” In regions with temperate and harsh climates, such work should be carried out at the end of March or beginning of April, before the start of sap flow.

This period is good for pruning because old branches that will never be covered with fruits clearly appear on the tree. Also, young shoots become noticeable on the tree, growing down and deep into the crown, thereby thickening it.

The adult seedling is pruned first, because it “wakes up” before the young plums. The most important pruning of plum trees occurs in the spring, after severe frosts have passed. Shearing work is carried out at the end of March - beginning of April, until the buds wake up.

Upon careful examination of the tree, wind-damaged, frozen branches growing inside the crown are found and then cut into rings, then the crown is thinned out and last year’s growth is shortened by one third. It is on them that the berries will grow. How to prune a plum in spring, for beginners, is shown in the figure.

In the south, where spring comes early, you can start pruning plums at the end of February or in the very first days of March, but the air should already warm up to a temperature of at least 10°C. In the middle zone, pruning must be done before the sap flows.

Scheme for pruning plums in spring:

• In the first year, the height of the trunk is measured from the ground on a young tree (40-60 cm).
• Then 6-7 more buds are counted above it, and the top is cut off.
• In the second year, the first tier is created from those buds that were above the trunk. 2-4 lower shoots are left on the tree, which extend from the trunk at an angle of 60 degrees.
• All branches that grow in the trunk area are constantly cut into a ring.
• A year or two later, a 2nd tier is laid above the 1st tier. It should consist of 2 branches (at a height of 25-30 cm from the first tier).
• If necessary, form a third tier, also consisting of 2 branches.

Many gardeners like a bowl-shaped crown. With such a crown, all the branches are exposed to the rays of the sun. They simply leave 3-4 branches, which are located at a height of 40-50 cm from the ground, and at an angle of 60-90 degrees relative to the trunk. The central conductor is cut out to create a bowl.

Pruning of plums is carried out with sharp pruning shears, and then the cuts are covered with garden varnish.

Pruning plum in summer

When planted in the spring, plum seedlings are pruned in the summer. In summer, the main trunk can be shortened by 1/3 of its length, and the side branches by 2/3 of their length.

In summer, plum trees do not tolerate pruning well. It is only possible to remove the “tops”, the growth at the base and in the lower part of the trunk, in June-July. These are straight, thick shoots that grow vertically upward and do not bear fruit.

In summer, the fruit plant is freed from dried branches, which are clearly visible. Those branches and berries that are infected with fungi, viruses, or damaged by insects are not left on the tree.

From the second ten days of July, pruning cannot be carried out, otherwise the quantity and quality of fruits will decrease.

Pruning of an adult plum is carried out in June or July. Summer sanitary pruning affects only those branches that froze in winter, were broken or diseased.

Frozen branches are difficult to recognize when treating bushes in spring. And now, when the whole tree has a green outfit, and they stand naked, without a single leaf, it is easy to distinguish them from the general background. Leaves will no longer grow on them and fruits will no longer ripen, so they can be decisively removed.

Pruning a plum tree in summer for beginners comes down to a simple haircut. The most difficult thing for beginning gardeners is cutting into rings those shoots that grow strictly vertically. Having studied the rules of pruning, every young gardener will perform this action. But the branches that have taken a horizontal position are left.

Cuttings of young shoots do not need to be treated with garden varnish, because they themselves quickly heal. Is it possible to prune a plum tree during flowering? Not worth it unless absolutely necessary.

Pruning in autumn

A plum tree, the pruning of which has been postponed until the fall, should recover before winter after suffering stress. Recovery takes at least two months. Therefore, summer partial pruning of plum trees can only be carried out in the south of the country.

Formative and rejuvenating plum pruning is carried out in the fall in the southern regions. Three weeks should pass from the date of harvest. In central Russia and areas with a harsh climate, sanitary pruning and cutting of thin long branches can be organized in the fall.

In the fall, after the leaves have dropped, you can shorten too long branches by a quarter. Otherwise they will suffer greatly from frost. In winter, gardeners in the southern regions practice pruning plums, around mid-February. But the temperature should not be lower than 5–7°C.

Answers to frequently asked questions

In conclusion, a selection of the most common questions about pruning plum trees in the fall.

When to prune plums after harvest

Immediately after collecting all the plums from the tree, it is still too early to prune. The tree has not yet gone dormant, which means pruning can harm it.

It is necessary to remove branches after the leaves have fallen from the tree. In different Russian regions it is necessary at different times. On average it is mid-September - October.

When to prune plums in September

In September it is not always possible to saw down a plum tree. If there are still leaves on it, then it is better to postpone the procedure to a later date.

The main thing is to follow the rule “Do no harm.” It’s better to postpone pruning until spring, rather than injure the tree and have it freeze in winter.

When to prune in Siberia

In the Siberian region, pruning should be done in early autumn. If you missed this moment, then it’s better not to risk it and postpone the procedure to spring.

If the tree does not have time to heal the wounds from the cuts before the onset of frost, then it may simply not survive the winter.

Common Mistakes

Improperly formed plum crown will lead to problems with the tree in the future - diseases, poor quality of fruits, lack of harvest, etc. Typical mistakes include:

1. Delay in the start of pruning - formation begins the next year after planting. Lost time will make booking difficult, because... mature shoots cannot be bent, they can only be removed, and simultaneous cutting of several large branches can cause stress in the tree.
2. Failure to meet deadlines - pruning plums in the spring is most favorable. In summer and autumn, only sanitary pruning can be carried out.
3. Incorrect technique. The cut to the bud is made just above its top at an angle. Trimming into a ring is done as close as possible to the annular thickening, but without injuring it.
   

   A common mistake in this case is leaving the stump. In the future, it will become a weak point of the tree - open tissue that does not overgrow is susceptible to frost, fungi and pests. Top shoots will grow from the stump every year until it dries out.

4. Use of low-quality tools and disinfectants, poor quality of work. Secateurs and hacksaws must be sharp to prevent shoot fracture and peeling of the bark. To protect the cut, use garden varnish or other disinfectants - special paint or paste.
5. Incomplete pruning - gardeners are often afraid to prune shoots for fear of not getting enough harvest. This approach is fundamentally wrong, since it helps the plum to correctly redistribute nutrients in favor of fruit-bearing branches, and as a result, get a good harvest.

Insufficient ventilation and illumination of the crown often causes the spread of diseases and weakening of the tree’s immunity, and shoots growing at an acute angle in the future may break off under the weight of the fruit.

If you have any questions, we are always happy to discuss them in the comments and our groups on social networks.

Learning to saw and cut correctly

Proper care of stone fruits, including plums, consists of following agricultural practices. Fruit trees need watering, regular nutrition, and certainly proper pruning - these are the determining factors for the effective cultivation of fruit-bearing garden crops. Plum grows as a bush - up to 2 m and as a tall tree with a narrow pyramidal crown (tree height up to 7-10 m). When starting to prune plum trees, it is important to understand that this tree mainly bears fruit on shoots-spurs located in the lower part of the trunk and on bouquet branches of the second year (when a tree-like crown is formed) - both the first and second grow by 5–10 cm annually , fruit shoots live up to 4–5 years, in which case the harvest is concentrated inside the crown.

In the axils of the leaves there are 2–4 growth buds, on the spurs and bouquet branches there are usually 1–2 growth buds (leaves or shoots) and from one to three flower buds - our future harvest.

Types of plum fruiting formations

Thus, pruning a fruit-bearing plum is to prevent weakening of the annual growth (on which the main harvest will be formed) - branches up to 40 cm do not need pruning, and shoots longer than 55–60 cm must be shortened annually by 10–15 cm. If this is not done, the fruit-bearing branches become bare and droop, and in subsequent years they produce fewer and fewer ovaries.

Plum growth: the first summer - growth, the second summer - the annual wood blooms and at the same time sprouts fruit twigs (spurs).
Then the annual shoots and spurs bloom: the tree is all in flowers, right up to the very tips of the branches. Many varieties of plums do not bloom on annual shoots, forming different fruiting branches below. The fruits of these crops can branch and work for 5–6 years, but due to fungal diseases they usually die in the 3rd–4th year. N. Kurdyumov https://docplayer.ru/25832812-Nikolay-kurdyumov-formirovka-vmesto-obrezki.html#show_full_text

Pruning plums involves thinning - controlling young growth and shortening old fruit-bearing shoots to the length required by the type of formation, or up to 50–60 cm. But it is important to remember that some varieties do not produce abundant growth and do not require annual intervention from the gardener; such cultivars need shaping every second year of the growing season.

Pruning plums with pruning shears

What features of plum fruiting are taken into account when pruning branches?

The type of fruiting determines the frequency of intervention by the gardener with pruning shears. Plums are divided into three types depending on fruiting.

• Varieties that bear fruit on two-year-old spurs and bouquet branches - Hungarian, Peach and others - require careful cutting of old and thickening shoots.
• Plums that have a mixed type of fruiting - there are ovaries both on annual growths and on two-year lateral spurs, this is typical for the varieties Volzhskaya Krasavitsa, Pamyat Timiryazeva, Mirnaya, Tula Black, etc. - sanitary cutting is carried out annually, regulating or shaping necessary (every 2–3 years 4 years after planting).
• Ussuri, Chinese, and American plums produce crops exclusively on last year's growths - the bulk of the fruits are formed along the entire length of the shoots - thinning, adjustment and shaping are required as necessary.

The best cut is no need to cut. Shaping is needed so that you don't have to cut it. The earlier the impact, the stronger the effect with less effort. On time - this is when it is already visible, but has not yet had an impact.

Depending on the type of plum fruiting, the method of pruning the tree is selected.

When and why do they prune plums in spring, summer and autumn?

Spring is the ideal time for pruning and shaping the plum crown; spring cuts are better tightened, and during the growing season the plant is better rehabilitated after “surgical” intervention. But experienced gardeners claim that this stone fruit can be pruned at any time of the year.

Experts advise pruning plum trees at any time of the year, and shaping them in the spring.

This procedure should be resorted to only with the onset of stable warming - that is, the gardener must make sure that the threat of frost has passed. Experts recommend carrying out any activities with pruning shears in dry, windless weather. It is believed that you should not start pruning plum trees on the eve of frost or during frost.

First, pruning is carried out on mature trees, and then on young trees.

In central Russia, in the Volga region and the Chernozem region, it is quite possible to carry out both spring pruning of plums - starting from the end of March, and autumn - in the 2-3rd decade of October, the weather is quite conducive to this. In the southern regions (Crimea, Caucasus, Krasnodar Territory, Kuban), plum trees are most often pruned throughout the season: in the spring (1st–3rd decade of March) - regulation and shaping; in the fall (October - November) sanitary thinning is usually required . In the northern regions of our country (Siberia, the Urals, the Far East), plums are pruned exclusively in the spring - weather conditions allow the procedure to be carried out in April. Summer pruning is possible in any climate zone.

Video: spring pruning and shaping the plum crown

In autumn, as at any other time of the year, dry, broken and thickening branches can be cut out of mature trees.

After autumn pruning of plums, it is advisable to cover the cut areas with garden varnish or paint on natural drying oil, which will promote their speedy healing.

Compared to spring, pruning fruit trees in autumn should be more gentle and careful so as not to weaken the tree.

Video: autumn pruning of plum crown

In summer, pruning shears may be needed to thin out the crown—the plum tree very quickly grows “green” mass—and to regulate fruiting.

Scheme and technique of pruning

For a successful procedure, it should be carried out carefully. For this purpose, a special plum pruning scheme has been developed. They differ depending on the age of the culture. In addition, it is important to follow the technique of performing such an “operation”.

Plum pruning scheme

First of all, you should choose a pruning method taking into account the age of the plum tree. This is not surprising, since the manipulation for seedlings, plants 2-3 years old and old trees are different.

So, whether it is necessary to prune plum seedlings after planting them in open ground or not, you need to decide based on their appearance. If it looks like a smooth small stick, then the procedure can be postponed for a year. But in this case, it must be tied to a support before the onset of spring. But gardeners often stimulate the formation of new shoots by shortening the seedling by 7-12 cm.

Two-year-old trees already have several shoots, so crown formation is necessary. This process should not be neglected, since in this case growth will slow down, and the wood itself will become fragile and vulnerable. In such plants it is necessary to shorten the main conductor, irregular branches, and tops.

After a year, you need to prune the plum in the same way, but you will also need to get rid of new unnecessary shoots. Removal must be done to the base of the branch. This procedure should be repeated annually, even for old plums.

Pruning technique

Correct crown formation is impossible without following the technique. Thus, removal “on the bud” should be done if the growth direction of the branches is required to change. The technique is as follows:

1. On a young shoot, select a bud whose location corresponds to the direction of the branches.
2. Position the tool so that its cutting part is directed towards the shoot that needs to be preserved.
3. Remove at an angle of 45° without affecting the kidney.

If “shortening to a ring” is necessary, then it involves getting rid of a strong branch. It is carried out if it is affected by a disease or grows abnormally. For this you need a pruner. The cutting occurs at an angle along the outer edge of the ring to the base.

A “side branch” cut will be needed to reduce growth or limit it altogether. For this purpose, the main branches need to be transferred to lateral ones. In this case, the incision should be located parallel to the side shoot.

If it is important to get rid of shoots growing from the side, then pruning should begin from the bottom, gradually moving upward. The root shoots need to be pruned all summer so that the tree receives the nutrients required for a good harvest.

Methods and types

The choice of pruning method depends on where the plum grows and the desired result.

Sanitary haircut

Pruning apricots in summer: when and how to do it correctly

For sanitary purposes, tree pruning can be done at any time of the year. In summer, for this purpose, all damaged branches are removed and thinning is carried out.

In the spring, it is necessary to cut out broken or dry branches, as well as shoots growing inward. It is also very important to remove excess growth in a timely manner. Thanks to these simple manipulations, branches will grow at the cutting sites by next year and will bear fruit.

Thinning pruning

For normal air circulation in the tree crown, it is important to carry out thinning in a timely manner. To do this, you can simply trim off excess branches. The main thing is to form a sparsely tiered crown.

Remember! Dried or damaged shoots can be removed year-round.

Rejuvenating pruning of an old tree

The main indicator that it is time to carry out anti-aging procedures for a tree is when growth stops. The idea is to cut down the old branches.

Remember! It is strictly forbidden to remove young branches.

To prevent severe damage to the tree, it is recommended to trim the branch from both sides at once. All shoots should be removed except the 2 strongest ones.

Anti-aging pruning is only suitable for trees under 15 years of age or 2.5 meters in height. Despite the “venerable age” of the plum, a properly carried out rejuvenation procedure will allow the tree to bear fruit for several more years.

Formative from 3 years of age

In the third year of life, the plum begins to actively grow and branch. It is at this time that all growths growing on the side need to be shortened to approximately 12-15 cm, and apical shoots to 20-30 cm.

Important! Formation should be carried out so that all shoots and branches grow outward. This is done to ensure that the tree is illuminated as much as possible.

Types of procedure

There are a number of varieties of this procedure, one of which is called sanitary. It should be carried out twice a year: in the spring, before the buds swell, and in the fall after the leaves fall off. The tree is removed from broken, diseased and dried shoots. As a result of thinning pruning, the crown becomes less dense. At the same time, shoots that grow incorrectly are cut off deep and vertically; the latter are called tops.

A rejuvenation procedure is often required for mature plantings that have less yield. In addition, the branches of such trees grow less than 15 cm per year. Thanks to rejuvenating pruning, all old wood is gradually replaced by new one. It is necessary to cut out no more than ¼ of the old shoots, and the growing young shoots will re-form the tree. A complete update will take 4 seasons. As a result, the life expectancy of the plum will increase significantly. The tree will again produce a good harvest.

There is another type - forming, which is carried out after planting. To create a crown, you can use one of the pruning methods:

• pyramidal;
• cup-shaped;
• sparsely tiered.

The gardener chooses the formative scheme for pruning plums, based on his desire, variety and climate characteristics.

Purpose and benefits of summer pruning

The procedure for pruning a plum tree in the summer is aimed at maintaining proper growth and redirecting the supply of nutrients from useless shoots to branches and fruits. Pruning plum trees in the summer is very convenient, because all the leaves have already blossomed, you can see how thick the crown is. It is easy to see areas where branches need to be made shorter, as well as places that need to be thinned out. The procedure helps to form the crown, and it is also of great sanitary importance. This is especially true in cases where the shoots are affected by any disease. If they are not removed, the disease will spread to the entire tree. A novice gardener should know that dry, infected and pest-damaged branches are trimmed. In addition, the plum tree takes on a well-groomed appearance, the wood is renewed, its growth is maintained and restored.