When and how best to replant a plum to a new place - in autumn or spring

Timing for spring transplantation of plums

Carry out the operation before sap flow begins, when the plant is at rest. If the hole has been prepared in the fall, spring replanting can be done early. Otherwise, you will have to wait until the frozen soil thaws a little and a shovel will take it. Exact times vary by region and weather.

If you dig a plum in the spring, focus on the following period of time:

  • The middle zone is from the beginning to the end of April.
  • Siberia, Trans-Urals - the last ten days of April or the first days of May.
  • When planting needs to be done in the south, it is better to complete the work before the end of March.

Sometimes it is necessary to replant a flowering plum tree. There is no guarantee that it will take root. Carry out the manipulation only when the plant still needs to be removed from its old place. To increase survival rate, dig up a plum that has begun the growing season with a large ball of earth.

How to care for a plum so that it takes root

Proper care at the initial stage is the correct choice of location and preparation of the hole for planting. For about a year, the plum will have enough of what is placed in it, but already in the second year it is necessary to take care of fertilizers. Pruning is also best done after signs of final rooting appear. For good rooting, the first time you need to loosen the soil in the root zone, make sure that the crust does not cake on it.

The tree tolerates cold climates well, consistently produces good harvests and has many other useful qualities. But plums rarely respond positively to moving from place to place, take a long time to recover, and refuse to produce a harvest for several years.

Benefits of spring transplantation

When digging up trees, the roots are damaged. The gardeners’ task is to carry out the operation so that it quickly recovers, and by the time the buds swell, it begins to supply the above-ground part with plastic substances and water.

Spring plum transplantation has a number of advantages:

  • there is a lot of moisture in the ground;
  • the root is already growing, but the buds are still closed, regeneration occurs quickly;
  • before winter the plum will have time to adapt to the new place and take root well;
  • there is less chance that it will freeze;
  • more selection of seedlings.

Specifics of further care

No matter what time of year the transplant occurs, it is important to provide the plant with optimal care for full development and abundant fruiting.

The gardener needs to take into account that in the first seasons after transplantation, the shoots will stretch chaotically, distorting the shape of the crown. Therefore, it is necessary to carry out formative pruning of the plum tree.

You also need to control the acidity of the soil. If acidity increases, neutralization should be carried out with dolomite or lime.

Transplanted plums should not experience moisture deficiency. Watering is carried out regularly, its frequency is determined by weather conditions, and is reduced towards the end of summer.

Selection of material for transplantation

Plums older than 5 years do not take root well. Replant them only as a last resort with a large earthen ball. 1-2 year old plants with a height of 1.1-1.4 m with well-developed roots 20-25 cm long take root best. There is no standard for the number and size of branches for plum seedlings; usually, two-year-old plants have 3-5 side shoots.

When purchasing, pay attention to the following signs:

  • branches are flexible, without stains, cracks, or other visible damage;
  • exposed roots are treated with a clay mash or tightly wrapped in cellophane film, or, in extreme cases, immersed in wet sawdust;
  • they should have 3-5 strong branches and many thin overgrowing shoots, clean cuts, without swelling or signs of rotting;
  • the buds are at rest (if they are swollen, much less burst, the plant most likely will not take root).

Choose zoned varieties. Examine how well the grafting site has grown together, whether there are any cracks or peeling of the bark. For a small plot, plums on a dwarf or semi-dwarf rootstock are suitable; large trees usually grow from those grafted onto cherry plums.

The crop produces abundant growth, which bears almost no fruit.

To correct the situation, transplant 1-2 year old single shoots:

  • well developed;
  • located no closer than a meter to the tree;
  • located in a sunny location.

Please note that root offspring inherit the maternal characteristics of the rootstock, not the scion. For replanting, take shoots only from self-rooted or seed-grown varietal plums.

Selection of seedlings

The future harvest directly depends on the quality of planting material. Any seedlings are purchased only in nurseries and specialized stores. Buying second hand is a big risk. A healthy, developed plum tree meets the following criteria:

  • root system of a tap root and 4–5 lateral roots at least 25 cm long;
  • trunk thickness 1–2 cm and at least 3 side shoots (for a two-year-old seedling);
  • smooth elastic bark - uniform, without traces of peeling, stains, traces of rot and mold;
  • the wood is greenish-cream in color.

Practice shows that one- and two-year-old plums take root best in a new location. Trees aged 3 years and older take much longer to adapt and get sick more often.

It is advisable to purchase plum seedlings from local nurseries - they are better adapted to the climate of a given region

Video: how to choose the right fruit tree seedling

Pruning during transplantation

Do pruning at the beginning of the season, but in order to reduce gum production, not immediately after spring planting, but when the buds begin to swell - after about 2-3 weeks.

Start forming the crown of young seedlings:

  1. Shorten an annual plum that does not have lateral shoots to 0.8-1 m.
  2. On branched seedlings, select the height of the trunk, cut all the shoots located below into a ring.
  3. Above, leave only strong branches directed in different directions, shorten them by 1/3-2/3.
  4. The longest shoots should be at the bottom, the short ones at the top of the crown.
  5. Cut the central conductor (leader) so that it rises 15-20 cm above the side branches.
  6. Make the cuts obliquely, at an angle of about 45 °C, on the opposite side of the outward-facing bud.
  7. Cover wounds with a diameter of 5 mm or more with garden varnish or special paint.

Continue to form an adult plant using the chosen method, but after spring replanting, be sure to do short pruning and remove some of the skeletal branches:

  • this will reduce the load on the root;
  • will balance the underground and above-ground parts;
  • will help a large plum to take root faster.

Features of planting plums on dwarf and semi-dwarf rootstocks

Such plums can be distinguished by their size: an adult dwarf tree is about half the “original” in height, a semi-dwarf tree is three quarters. Their useful feature is their shallow root system, which extends into the soil for a maximum of a meter, so such plums can be planted in areas with close groundwater. The planting hole is not made so deep, 40-45 cm is enough. Smaller dimensions allow the plantings to be compacted - 2-2.5 m are left between such drains.

The tree's yield is comparable to that of a regular plum, but due to its smaller size it requires more nutrients. Be sure to bring everything you need into the planting hole, and in the future, do not forget to regularly feed the plum.

Preparing the site and soil

The culture is demanding of moisture, but does not like the roots to become soaked. Hillocks or lowlands are not suitable for planting. Choose a level, well-lit area. Plum blossoms early; if there is no protection from cold winds, fruiting will become irregular. The groundwater level is no closer than 1.5 m to the surface. Good neighbors are apple trees and other varieties of plums.

Bad:

  • Walnut;
  • cherry;
  • pear;
  • blueberry;
  • raspberries;
  • cherries.

The soil should be rich in organic matter, pH level 6.5-7.2. Lime soil that is too acidic for spring replanting in the fall.

Place the pits at a distance:

  • between tall trees - 3-4 m, and between dwarfs and semi-dwarfs - 2.5-3 m;
  • rows - every 4-5 or 3-4 m, respectively.

The standard hole size is 40 cm deep with a diameter of 60 cm. If necessary, adjust the hole to fit the root system.

Prepare a fertile mixture from the top layer of soil with the following components:

  • rotted manure – 15 kg;
  • double superphosphate – 200-250 g;
  • potassium sulfate – 60-80 g.

How and with what to fertilize after planting?

The tied plum is watered again. The water should be settled and slightly warm. It is advisable to add a root growth stimulator to the water.

It is not necessary to fertilize the plum after transplantation, since the organic matter that was added to the planting hole is enough for it. The tree can survive 2 seasons without any problems with this feeding. For the 3rd season after transplantation, the introduction of nutrients is required: in the fall - potassium and phosphorus, in the spring - nitrogen.

Methods for replanting plums

Prepare the hole in the fall, fill it with a fertile mixture, cover it with cellophane, tarpaulin, and cut cardboard boxes. At the beginning of the season, it is difficult to dig frozen ground, but this way you can remove the cover, take out part of the loose substrate and begin spring planting.

Transplant shoots according to the same principle as seedlings.

But in the fall, do the preparatory work:

  1. Dig up part of the root connecting the mother plant and the offspring.
  2. Cut off the shoot 15-20 cm from the young shoot.
  3. Fill the ditch.
  4. In the spring, all that remains is to dig up and replant the seedling.

Transplanting seedlings

Replant a young plum with a closed root system, no matter whether it is lined with jute or grew in a container, in the same way as an adult plant. Do not remove the burlap, remove the pot. If it doesn't budge, cut the plastic. Pay special attention to the position of the root collar.

Soak seedlings dug in in the fall or purchased with bare roots for at least 6 hours. You can overnight or for a day in water with ash, a solution of humate, root, or another stimulant. If frost is expected, do not leave the seedling outside, bring it into the utility room so that the water does not freeze.

Step-by-step instructions for spring planting:

  1. Remove some of the fertile mixture from the hole.
  2. Drive a strong peg 10-15 cm from the center.
  3. Form a small mound.
  4. Place the seedling on top and straighten the roots. They should be evenly distributed around the hill and under no circumstances bend upward.
  5. Check the position of the root collar - 5-6 cm above the edge of the hole.
  6. Fill and compact the soil in layers. Do not tamp, work carefully so as not to damage the shoots.
  7. Tie it up.
  8. Form an earthen roller around the perimeter of the crown.
  9. Water thoroughly.
  10. When the water is absorbed, mulch with dry peat or mullein. A layer of 10 cm will prevent the ground from freezing if the temperature drops below 0 °C at night.

Transplanting a mature tree

It is not recommended to replant plums older than 5 years. But if such a need arises, move it to a new place with a large lump of earth. A tree with bare roots has almost no chance of taking root. From nurseries, take mature plums only with the underground part lined with jute. Plant together with burlap - over time it will decompose and serve as additional fertilizer, and will not interfere with rooting.

In the spring, before the sap begins to flow, it is almost impossible to dig up a large plant on your own site unless preparatory work is carried out in the fall.

After leaf fall, but before frost:

  1. Water the plum generously.
  2. Draw a circle around the perimeter of the crown.
  3. Dig about 40-70 cm, set the soil aside. The depth depends on the size of the tree.
  4. Cut off all thick roots, including the central one. To do this, tilt the plant and then put it in place.
  5. Measure the earthen ball and adjust the volume of the planting hole.
  6. Water it.
  7. When the water is absorbed, fill the empty space with mullein, peat, and sand.

When replanting in spring, removing an earthen ball with chopped roots from a loose substrate is much easier than digging frozen soil to such a depth.

Landing algorithm:

  1. Remove the mature plum from the hole and place it on a tarpaulin, burlap or other durable fabric.
  2. Deliver to the transfer location.
  3. Place it in the center of the hole so that the root collar rises 5-6 cm above the edge.
  4. Gradually fill the empty space with the fertile mixture, tamping it layer by layer with your foot or the handle of a shovel.
  5. Drive in 3 strong supports around the edges.
  6. Tie it up.
  7. Form a ridge 8 cm high around the planting hole.
  8. Water thoroughly, using at least 20 liters of water per 1 m of tree growth.
  9. Apply a 10 cm layer of dry mulch.

Goals and objectives of transplantation

Let’s not focus on the obvious positive aspects of growing a plum tree in a garden plot. The tree is distinguished by its taste, beneficial properties, and ease of care.

But high yields can be obtained by performing simple agrotechnical complexes. So, an adult plum should be watered, fed and rejuvenated in a timely manner.

After rooting, a young tree, in addition to the actions already indicated, must be treated against pests and undergo sanitary pruning. But there are times when it becomes necessary to replant a plum:

  • garden redevelopment;
  • soil acidification, which harms crop development;
  • the appearance of pests and diseases on nearby plants;
  • transferring a tree from one dacha to another;
  • demolition of the building and moving to another location.

The purpose of replanting is to protect the plant from stress as much as possible. Young plums adapt quickly and well.

It will not be possible to completely move old trees, but you can always take a seedling of a non-standard size.

Have you ever replanted a plum tree?
Not really

The rules are strictly observed, without unnecessary additions from the gardener and his neighbors in the area. Only recommendations from professionals will help preserve your favorite plum with all its taste:

  • transplantation can be done in spring or autumn. It is better to plan for the time of preparation for wintering;
  • should not be carried out during flowering. At this stage of the growing season, the crop is extremely susceptible to any kind of intervention;
  • The day is chosen to be cloudy, but without rain or wind.

Despite the high survival rate, the transplant will not be without consequences. Therefore, the development of the plum and its condition must be constantly monitored.

Care after transplant

As soon as the buds begin to swell, prune the plum. In the first season, the plant does not need to be fertilized - there are enough nutrients in the planting hole. Water regularly, especially if there was little rain in the spring and the summer is hot and dry. 1-2 days after irrigation, loosen the soil shallowly, 8-10 cm. Mulch the tree trunk with grass clippings or unseeded weeds. In the fall, be sure to rehydrate.

  1. After the buds open, it is not recommended to replant a plum with an open root system. Sometimes it is moved to a new place even during flowering, but only with a large earthen lump and as a last resort. There is no guarantee of survival.
  2. The main thing when replanting a plum tree is that the soil must thaw enough to allow digging, or prepare a hole in the fall.
  3. During transplantation, the roots are injured. The culture gets sick, and each time it takes more time to recover. A tree older than 5 years may not take root.
  4. Start replanting in spring when the snow has melted and the plum tree can be dug up.
  5. In the first year after transplantation, the crop should not be allowed to set fruit - this interferes with rooting. An operation carried out late - after the leaves have bloomed, and even more so during flowering, will negatively affect the quality and quantity of the harvest for several subsequent seasons.

Look, we wrote earlier: how to plant an apricot.

Which tree needs replanting?

Sometimes objective reasons arise - the tree has not had any harvest for several years. This occurs due to improper planting or placement of the seedling. The need for cross-pollination presupposes that there are other varieties of plum, cherry plum, or at least cherry nearby. The latter option is not very desirable due to a possible discrepancy in flowering times.

It happens that a tree does not receive the necessary illumination due to an unsuccessfully chosen location, the construction of a building by neighbors, or the rapid growth of nearby fruit crops (a common mistake is planting a nut, which not only grows faster, but also has a peculiar effect on the crops placed nearby).

See also

Methods for propagating plums at home in summer, autumn and springRead

Sometimes, when delimiting areas, it turns out that the drain is located on the line of the fence. Neighbors have complaints about non-compliance with distance standards and shading of beds with trees. The reason for replanting a plum tree can even be an extension in the front garden of an apartment building in which a plum tree is planted that is not designed for such transformations.

In this case, a good owner will try to save the tree, but an indifferent average person will simply cut it down without thinking. In any case, replanting a tree is a responsible process, the success of which requires care, optimal planting time and thorough preparation. You can try to replant any tree.

But success is guaranteed if it is one year old, it is doubtful, but possible if the tree is up to 5 years old, and then there is a minimum chance even with the most careful care and compliance with all conditions.

Calendar for transplanting indoor crops for August 2022

Anyone who says that August is the time to harvest a great harvest will be right. However, you need to remember that you need to prepare for next year. In August, you need to start laying the foundations for the future harvest, for example, feeding stone fruit trees. Strawberries and wild strawberries, raspberries and currants need special attention. Remember the flowers too.

August 1New moon. Do some preparation and planning
August 2Waxing Crescent. Day of collecting heart medicinal herbs, prepare, dry the berries
August 3rdWaxing Crescent. You can sow dill, parsley and celery. Watering is favorable
August 4Waxing Crescent. Dedicate the day to strawberries, wild strawberries and raspberries. Don’t make preparations
5th of AugustWaxing Crescent. Take care of current garden chores to put things in order
August 6Waxing Crescent. Do not pick berries and fruits for harvesting today
August 7Waxing Crescent. You can mow the lawn, water and fertilize shrubs and decorative flowers
8 AugustFirst quarter. You can’t pick or pinch, or disturb the leaves of plants.
August 9Waxing Crescent. A good day to harvest berries and fruits for drying
10th of AugustWaxing Crescent. Continue to harvest vegetables and fruits. Control pests
11th AugustWaxing Crescent. Favorable day for digging up root crops and hilling bushes
12th of AugustWaxing Crescent. Make winter preparations from root vegetables. You can do some weeding
August 13Waxing Crescent. Grafting fruit trees is appropriate, as is sowing and planting medicinal herbs
August 14Waxing Crescent. Loosen the soil and mulch the soil. You can dig up root vegetables
August 15Full moon. Do some preparation and planning
August 16Waning moon. Remove excess shoots, prune bushes
August 17Waning moon. Day for abundant watering - spray and feed with organic matter
August 18Waning moon. Watering and fertilizing are very appropriate. Don't harvest yet
August 19Waning moon. You can start fumigating your garden from pests and diseases
August 20Waning moon. Day for harvesting - fruits and berries for drying and preparations for the winter
August 21Waning moon. Dig up root vegetables and bulbs. Nightshades need to be watered
August 22Waning moon. Collect tomatoes for long-term storage and for winter preparations
August 23Third quarter. Dig up potatoes, onions and garlic, but only in the morning
24 AugustWaning moon. Pest Control Day: Kill Them by Spraying and Fumigating
25-th of AugustWaning moon. Take care of strawberries, wild strawberries, plant them. Replant roses, don't forget about cacti
August, 26thWaning moon. This is not the time to collect seeds. Water and feed both fruit and vegetable crops and your “indoor” pets today with organic fertilizers
August 27Waning moon. Water young trees and shrubs. Don't forget about pests
August 28Waning moon. Water and fertilize ornamental shrubs and plants in the house
August 29Waning moon. Trim dried flowers, prepare cuttings, collect seeds
August 30New moon. Do some preparation and planning
August 31Waxing Crescent. Collect and dry herbs, medicinal herbs and berries

On the days of the full moon and new moon, it is better to plan planting

How to choose a good seedling

It is necessary to take into account two groups of factors: varietal characteristics and fruiting characteristics, as well as the condition of the plant. If you buy a sick or severely damaged tree, even if agricultural practices and ideal growth conditions are followed, it will not take root. The most significant features are:

  1. Harvest time. It varies from July to October, it should be selected according to the region; if the summer is not very hot, and the cold period can come early, it is better to use early or mid-season varieties. Options with a long growing season are good for the southern regions.
  2. Sizes and characteristics of fruits. They differ in color, size, and taste. Some options are selected for fresh consumption, and others for preparations.
  3. Is the variety zoned in the region? Choose only those varieties that grow normally in the region, withstand climatic conditions and bear fruit without problems. If you buy a non-zoned option, there is a high risk that the plant will not take root.
  4. Frost resistance. One of the most important nuances, since if the tree is heat-loving, it will die after the first winter. Be sure to clarify the temperature limits that are permissible for plums. Ideally, there should be a reserve so that the seedling can withstand the winter without problems.
  5. Pollination conditions. Most often, a tree requires a pollinator nearby for normal fruiting. If there is another plum on the site or the neighbors have, that will be enough. But if there is no tree nearby, you will have to plant at least two copies, and different varieties.

Advice! If there is not enough space for two seedlings, there is an option to graft 2-3 varieties onto one rootstock. The work is not easy, it is better to ask an experienced gardener for help.

After determining the appropriate variety, you need to choose a strong seedling so that it takes root normally and immediately begins to grow. This is easy to do if you know the basic nuances and follow the recommendations:

Type of root system. It can be open or closed, the first option is much cheaper, and the second is sold in a container with soil, so it takes root better, it is recommended for beginners. The closed variety is also good because it is less damaged during transportation, although it weighs more. Condition of the roots. In the open version, it is easy to inspect this part; the main shoots should be strong and elastic, with numerous branches, without damage, dry areas and dark spots of rot

Nothing is visible in the containers, here it is worth paying attention to the bottom, there should not be many shoots sticking out there, and to the soil on top - if it is very wet and damp, there may be rot inside. The trunk should not be crooked or deformed, branches in the lower part are not allowed

From the root collar to the grafting point, the optimal distance is from 7 to 10 cm

The minimum thickness is from 1 cm, the height is usually about a meter; if the seedling is long and thin, this indicates that it was grown in unfavorable conditions. The buds should not be open. It is recommended to plant during the period when the tree is dormant, so the presence of swollen buds, and even more so leaves, is undesirable. The tree will use all its resources to form the above-ground part, which is why it will not take root well and may die in the first winter.

From the root collar to the grafting point, the optimal distance is from 7 to 10 cm. The minimum thickness is from 1 cm, the height is usually about a meter; if the seedling is long and thin, this indicates that it was grown in unfavorable conditions. The buds should not be open. It is recommended to plant during the period when the tree is dormant, so the presence of swollen buds, and even more so leaves, is undesirable. The tree will use all its resources to form the above-ground part, which is why it will not take root well and may die in the first winter.

Buy in stores or directly at variety testing stations, where the option you like will be dug out of the ground before your eyes. In markets, identical trees are often sold under the guise of different varieties, plus there is no guarantee that the grafting was done well.


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