All about the timing of planting fruit trees: when is it better to plant in spring or autumn

About the rules and timing of planting fruit trees

In order for the orchard to develop well, its planting is carried out taking into account rationalism, acting in the following sequence:

first determine the optimal location for each seedling;
carry out pre-planting preparation of the site;
mark the location for each tree;
dig holes and plant plants in them;
water and prune.

When choosing a landing site, you should take into account the location of the neighboring plot. Tall trees cannot be planted near adjacent fences - they will shade someone else's territory. You should not place them near buildings either - in the future the branches will fall on the roof and can damage the roof.

Fruit trees

It will also be inconvenient to trim such trees and harvest from them. In addition, there is additional (labor-intensive) work involved in collecting fallen leaves. If it is not removed from the roof in time, then this leaf fall will begin to rot there.

Dwarf trees, like shrubs, can be safely placed under vigorous crops (apple trees and pears). They will not interfere with each other's development.

Pleasant neighborhood

When selecting crops for your garden, stone fruit and pome trees are placed separately from each other at a considerable distance (as far as the garden plot allows). This will make it easier to combat fruit tree diseases and pests.

When choosing a neighborhood, take into account the compatibility of plants:

the apple tree gets along well with pears, plums, quinces, cherries; next to some shrubs (currant, barberry, viburnum, mock orange, lilac) the crop feels uncomfortable;
It is better to plant pears with their own kind and apple trees, trying to avoid proximity to the already mentioned shrubs - they oppress the culture in the same way as plums;
It is better to plant cherry separately from other fruit trees, this will ensure a better harvest.

On a note! The connection to the “wind rose” is important. Peaches, apricots and cherries are best planted in the southern and southwestern directions. For others, the northern side of the site is most comfortable. Although in this case it is also worth taking into account the region.

Thus, in the Moscow region and other regions of central Russia, most often the western and northwestern areas of the site are allocated for gardening. Southerners prefer the north exclusively - this way they can protect the trees from overheating.

In the northern zone, naturally, the most suitable place is the southern corner of the dacha. Not a single specialist allocates the eastern plot for a garden plantation, leaving it for building a house.

Note! When choosing a location, you need to take into account the relief. You should not plant a slope with a garden if it is too steep - the fertile layer will constantly be washed out from under the roots. It is also worth ignoring the lowlands, where melt water accumulates in the spring, and the wood is damaged by fragments of sliding ice.

Tree replanting

You can grow a garden in one place for decades. But sometimes there comes a time when it is necessary to transplant fruit trees to another area. Only viable plants suitable for bearing fruit are selected.

To plant an adult tree in a new place, it is prepared for the “move” in advance. 1-2 years before, a groove is dug around the plant, located around the circumference of the crown. The width of the recess is 0.3-0.4 m, the depth is 0.8-1 m. This work is carried out in early spring.

In the process, roots are exposed and cut off from the general system. The sections are treated with clay-earth mash, to which a growth stimulator should also be added.

The ditch is covered with earth mixed with humus and watered abundantly. From this moment until digging, many fibrous processes form on the roots around the trunk. With their help, the plant will take root in a new place.

During such transplants, the main difficulty lies in removing the tree from the old hole. To do everything carefully, you will have to use a system of levers. The removed plant is immediately transferred to a new place, where a spacious hole has already been prepared for it.

Replanting a fruit tree

It is best to replant trees no older than 5 years. But this option is not suitable for all cultivated plants. To preserve the quality of cherries, plums, pears, and apple trees, it is better to graft them onto a younger tree. There are 3 main methods of grafting: budding, cuttings, ablation, which allow you to preserve (or improve) the variety.

Deadlines

Each summer resident determines the planting time for himself. April - the first ten days of May are suitable for some, October is more suitable for others. Recently, there have been enthusiasts who plant fruit trees in the summer.

Note! The laws of fruit growing recommend planting stone fruits in the spring, and pome trees in the fall.

But experienced gardeners argue that this condition should not be adhered to so strictly. The main thing in planting garden trees is to follow the rules of agricultural technology and adhere to the crop placement scheme.

Preparatory stage

The preparation stage begins with the selection of seedlings. They must be healthy and strong, with a trunk thickness of 2-3 cm and skeletal branches 45 cm long. When purchasing, the trunk and the condition of the bark are inspected; there should be no traces of insects and pests on it. If seedlings are sold in a container, the roots should be dense and sit firmly inside the container.

Attention! If seedlings are purchased long before planting, wrap the roots in a damp cloth and put the plant in a cool and dark place. This is necessary in order to prevent the root system from drying out. Before planting, weak roots are removed, and the remaining ones are soaked in the growth stimulator “Kornevin”. From the container, the seedlings are moved into the planting hole along with a lump of earth.

For planting, prepare holes with a depth of about 80 cm and a diameter of 1 m. The earth is dug up, a mixture of compost or humus (2-3 buckets), peat chips (3-4 buckets), 1 kg of superphosphate and 1 kg of ash is added to the hole. A stake is driven in the middle of the hole for support. To improve the nutritional properties, the top layer of soil is set aside and the dug hole is covered with earth mixed with sand, turf and peat.

When is the best time to plant: spring or autumn

Compatibility of fruit trees and shrubs

Beginning summer residents often wonder when it is better to plant fruit trees: in spring or autumn. To choose the optimal period for gardening work, first of all, you should take into account the climatic region:

in the southern regions (Krasnodar, Stavropol territories) spring passes quickly, and May is hot; if you plant trees this season, they will take root poorly, suffer for a long time, will lag behind in development and will begin to bear fruit later than those planted in the fall;
for northerners, the optimal period is precisely spring, closer to mid-May, when the soil warms up and the air temperature becomes comfortable for planting; autumn is not acceptable here, since winter can come early and unexpectedly, destroying the seedlings;
The middle zone is also middle zone because it has absorbed the characteristics of the border regions; Here, plantings are carried out in spring and autumn, based on weather conditions that do not occur from year to year.

Saplings

Having chosen a suitable month for planting, it is recommended to look at the Lunar calendar, which is published annually in periodicals to help “gardening juniors”. The astrological document indicates the best days when planting fruit crops is recommended.

You should not ignore this information, because this method has been used since ancient times (and not only in Russia). The Moon actively influences all biological processes occurring on Earth, this fact has been proven by science.

Choice of terms

The optimal time for planting or replanting a plant is when it finishes actively growing. An indicator that indicates this is the state of the shoots and buds - the shoots become lignified, and the buds are fully formed at the top. In the spring, the fact that the plant is still dormant is indicated by unopened buds, and you need to “seize the moment”, since the period allotted for planting in the spring is short - about three weeks.

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If autumn planting is planned, then the trees are planted 1-1.5 months before the soil freezes. Before frost, they have time to take root, and with the arrival of warmth they begin to actively develop, gaining time over those planted in the spring. In mid-latitudes, depending on weather conditions, planting dates fall in the second or third decade of September. If winters are warm, they shift to October or even early November.

Most varieties of fruit trees (apple, pear, cherry, plum, walnut) can be planted in early autumn and spring . It is better to postpone planting frost-resistant peaches, as well as apricots, cherries, and some varieties of pears until spring. Since many coniferous and deciduous species (spruce, fir, pine, cedar, juniper, chestnut, oak, birch, some varieties of walnut) take a long time to take root due to their biological characteristics, they are also planted in the spring.

Apples are rotting - moniliosis: causes and methods of control

Spring planting should be done before warm days arrive, that is, immediately after the snow melts and the soil thaws. Day and night temperatures during this period should be around +5 °C. You shouldn’t delay it, as the delay will affect the speed of adaptation, which is more successful in cool weather. It will also be reflected in the amount of growth in the direction of its reduction, which will ultimately lead to a delay in fruiting and development. To make your work easier, it is better to prepare planting holes and soil in the fall.

Planting fruit trees in summer

Fruit tree pests

Among modern summer residents there are those who do not like following stereotypes. They also practice planting garden trees in the summer. Moreover, at the present time this can actually be done without harming the trees.

Previously, the argument against the summer period was hot weather, which prevented normal rooting. But then the seedlings were sold exclusively with an open root system, which, indeed, is more comfortable to take root at low temperatures in well-moistened soil.

Now nurseries sell trees in containers with soil mixture, and it is no longer so important for the plant at what temperature it is sent into the hole. The roots are quite well protected and do not dry out.

soil mixture

If an automated standardized irrigation system is installed on the site, then summer is even preferable for planting. June is considered a suitable month. You need to choose days based on the phases of the moon. You should wait until the second or third quarter of the night's activity to plant fruit tree seedlings.

The soil temperature is also taken into account. If it is above 25 degrees Celsius, planting work in summer should be carried out either early in the morning (at 6-8 o’clock) or late in the evening, but before sunset. This will save the root system from burning and allow the plant to adapt better.

Experienced gardeners highlight the following advantages of summer tree planting:

you can choose suitable planting material without haste - in summer there is no such influx of farmers in nurseries;
during the growing season it is easier to evaluate all the advantages of purchased trees;
seedlings planted in summer have time to take root before the cold weather and are more resistant to winter than those planted in autumn.

Important! In order for young trees to withstand winter frosts, during summer planting, all ovaries that appear on the plant should be removed. Otherwise, they will take excess juices from the seedling and weaken it.

Autumn planting of conifers

Gardeners' advice on when is the best time to plant conifers in the fall is divided into two camps:

Some believe that it is better to plant conifers in the fall at the end of August - beginning of September, when the roots of the plant are actively growing. This ensures its success.

Others argue that the best time for autumn replanting of ornamental coniferous trees and bushes is when they have just entered winter hibernation. In our climatic conditions, this is usually November.

Important! During the period when the plant is preparing for winter hibernation (up to three weeks), it cannot be replanted. At this time, complex chemical processes occur in it, which should not be interfered with.

Conditions for planting seedlings

Summer pruning of fruit trees

The rules for planting fruit trees are common to all seasons. Therefore, the gardener just needs to follow these instructions:

the pits are prepared in advance - 2 weeks before planting the seedlings; this is necessary so that the excavated soil has time to ventilate;
the size of the excavation is determined by the type of soil and the type of fruit tree;
the walls are drawn vertically, and the bottom is loosened using a shovel;
when forming a hole, the top layer of soil is laid separately from the bottom - it will need to be mixed with organic fertilizers (peat, manure, compost, humus) and placed on the bottom;
before the seedling is lowered into the hole, the roots are dipped in mash (a clay solution with the addition of soil);
It is advisable to drive a one and a half meter pointed stake, straight and smooth, into the center of the hole;
when planting a tree, it should be on the north side of the stake;
the roots are straightened and covered with earth;
then the seedling is shaken and the soil is lightly pressed down; This is repeated until the hole is filled with earth;
when settling, the condition is observed - the root collar should rise 3-4 centimeters above the ground;
Having tied the tree to a stake with a soft cloth, several holes are made along the edge of the hole, through which the plant is watered abundantly.

Note! If there is close groundwater in the area, then a layer of fertilized soil is not simply poured into the hole, but a ridge mound is formed from it, and a seedling is lowered onto it.

At this point, spring and summer planting can be considered complete. When working in autumn, the final stage is to mulch the tree trunk circle with non-acidic peat or compost, 10 cm thick.

Soil acidity

The mechanical and chemical composition of the soil plays a major role in establishing a garden. The roots of fruit trees need a suitable nutrient medium and comfortable conditions.

The most important parameter for a farmer is the ratio of cations and anions in the soil solution (pH reaction). These elements determine the acidity of the soil, which is indicated by the pH value.

Soil reaction is divided into 3 types: acidic, neutral and alkaline. The most promising soil is with a neutral pH of 6-7. But slightly acidic soil (pH 5-6) and slightly alkaline soil (pH 7-8) are quite suitable for a number of garden crops.

Increased acidity can be observed in regions with excess precipitation (for example, Leningrad and Moscow districts). High alkaline levels are more common in hot, dry areas.

Fruit trees

If a summer resident is not sure about the acidity of the soil on his site, he can take measurements with a potentiometer or use litmus paper. It will tell you the condition of the soil and the composition of the weeds growing there:

for a neutral reaction, garden thistle, field bindweed, creeping wheatgrass, and chamomile are typical;
High acidity is indicated by whiteweed, knotweed, chickweed, mullein, pickleweed, plantain, horsetail, and sorrel.

Meliorants will help improve the properties of the soil. Acidity can be reduced by adding lime, and increased by adding gypsum.

Planting in clay soil

Some garden crops prefer sandy soils, others take root well in clay soils, and others are not particularly demanding of this factor. Many fruit trees do not tolerate heavy clay and depleted sandy soils. Sandy loam and loam are optimal for them.

The characteristics of tree planting and the frequency of watering depend on the mechanical composition. The most difficult situation is for farmers with clay soil. In such soil it is difficult for plant roots to breathe. The density of the soil promotes long-term moisture retention, which in the rainy season provokes the development of fungal diseases.

Clay soil

Indicators of heavy mechanical composition are dandelions, bluegrass, cinquefoil, and creeping buttercup. Having discovered such a “community” of weeds on your site, it is necessary to carry out sanding before planting the seedlings: when preliminary digging the site, river sand is added to the soil.

Clay soil is called structureless - it has an almost uniform composition. This interferes with water permeability. Therefore, such soil requires careful digging and regular loosening. The addition of organic fertilizers during the preparation of the site for planting seedlings will make this soil structural.

On a note! Adding chopped straw or sawdust (along with fertilizers) to the pit for planting fruit trees will help bring the soil composition closer to loam.

A novice summer resident, in order to grow a luxurious garden on clay, should take into account the advice of experienced farmers:

Digging of a clay area before planting seedlings is carried out twice: six months before digging holes and again 10 days before the main work;
the depth of the hole under the tree is made less than in fertile soil;
In this case, clay mash is not used for roots;
It is better to cover the seedling lowered into the hole with imported soil mixed with fertilizers;
After planting the tree, the ground is not pressed down too much so that it does not become compacted.

Growing fruit trees will be more successful the more attentively the summer resident pays attention to the conditions of agricultural technology. The correct choice of location, taking into account the composition of the soil, determining the optimal period and observing the characteristics of planting are important. This is the only way to get a good harvest.

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How to save planting material

Since it is not always possible to purchase planting material at the time of planting, it is purchased in advance. The question of safety also arises when the weather did not allow landing on time. In order for the seedlings to remain viable and be able to take root successfully, they need to create proper storage conditions. There are several ways.

Prikop for frost-resistant breeds

This storage method is chosen for winter-hardy tree species and varieties. It allows you to create conditions such that the plant does not take root and does not freeze. To do this, in an area without stagnant moisture, in a vegetable bed after harvesting, or at the site of a future planting hole, dig a trench, directing it from east to west. The length and width depend on the size and number of plants, the depth is 0.5-0.7 m. The wall of the northern edge is dug at a right angle, and the southern edge - with a slight slope.

Before this, the seedlings are soaked for 4-5 hours, having first removed all the leaves. Then they inspect the roots, cut off damaged and dry areas, remove growths, and tie the branches if there are many of them. Each tree is placed with its roots facing north and its top on a flat edge. This location protects from cold northern winds. If there are a lot of seedlings, you can lay them in two rows. The roots are straightened and covered with a 20-centimeter layer of sand or peat.

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The plants fall asleep completely after frost - a mound is formed on top. In winter, you can pour snow on it and put spruce branches. With the arrival of warmer weather, the mound is removed, and the entire trench is dug up in April. There is no need to cover it with film or slate - awakening may occur earlier, which will lead to a decrease in immunity.

If there are few seedlings, then instead of digging, you can use a simpler option - after soaking, they are placed in any container, the roots are covered with damp soil and stored in a cool room at 0-5 ° C. Seedlings in a coma of earth, after removing the leaves, can be stored in the basement, in a cool room at the same temperature.

Planting a pear in autumn

Pear trees begin to be planted in September-October. She loves a lot of light, space, loose and fertile soil and does not like proximity to junipers.

These trees grow well in garden plots oriented to the west or south.

When planting, consider the groundwater level. If the aquifer in the garden area is close to the surface, arrange drainage.

It is recommended to plant pears immediately in a permanent place, because... the tree does not respond well to transplantation.

Secrets of autumn pear planting in the garden
A properly planted seedling grows quickly and lives a long time, delighting with early fruiting and a bountiful harvest later. After all, a well-developed root system is important for this, and it is laid down literally from the first days after planting.

The pear goes well with fruit crops that need similar care. For example, an apple tree can be planted nearby, but it is better to stay away from a rowan tree, because both of these trees suffer from the same diseases and suffer from the same pests.

It is recommended to wrap only young trees, since they may not be able to withstand the winter cold well. Burlap is used to cover the crown, and spruce branches or breathable synthetic material are used to cover the trunk.

Winter-hardy pear varieties: Samara Beauty, Nektarnaya, Cathedral, Moskvichka, Lada, Tenderness.

Planting cherries in autumn

Cherries are most often planted in a permanent place in the spring, but this can also be done in the fall, a month before the soil freezes. And before winter, the tree needs to be well hilled to a height of 30-40 cm. This will help protect the roots of the young cherry from frost.

To plant cherries, it is better to choose a sunny place, protected from strong winds. Therefore, it should be planted closer to the fence - there are no drafts and more snow accumulates in winter. The plant does not like swampy soil. Light, fertile soil with a neutral reaction is best suited for a cherry tree.

How to plant cherries - step-by-step instructions for beginners
Spring is the best time to plant cherries. We'll tell you how to do it correctly.

Winter-hardy cherry varieties: Turgenevka, Shchedraya, Malyshka, Morozovka, Lyubskaya, Ukrainka, Malinovka, Menzelinskaya.

Planting cherry plum in autumn

In order for your cherry plum to bear fruit well, for planting, choose annual hybrid seedlings with a closed root system and plant them in sunny areas away from windy places.

Moist, well-drained fertile loam is ideal for soil. The depth of groundwater must be at least 1 m (ideally, at least 1.5 m).

Cherry plum in autumn - choose a variety and plant the tree correctly
What varieties of cherry plum are best to plant in the fall and how to do it correctly?

Two to three weeks before planting, dig a hole with a diameter of 60-80 cm and a depth of 40-60 cm.

Compared to apricots, cherry plum is more resistant to cold, but still, for the middle zone of the country it is better to choose winter-hardy varieties.

If your area has cold winters, then you should not plant cherry plum in the fall; it is better to wait until spring.

For the middle zone and the Moscow region, the best varieties of cherry plum are Dessertnaya, Zhemchuzhina, Nesmeyana, Pionerka, Podarok St. Petersburg, Purpurovaya and Violet Dessertaya, and hybrid varieties are Zlato Scythians, Cleopatra, Kolonnovidnaya, Kuban Comet, Mara, Rubinovaya, Seyanets Rockets, Skoroplodnaya, Timiryazevskaya.

To increase the frost resistance of cherry plum, it can be grafted.

Cherry plum grafting: increasing the frost resistance of the tree
In this article you will find useful tips on how to graft cherry plum onto plum.