Features of cultivation
How to grow chrysanthemums in a greenhouse? Chrysanthemums are unpretentious
and are ready to forgive novice gardeners a number of mistakes. Simple rules will allow you to get a healthy, strong, regularly flowering plant.
Soil preparation.
Chrysanthemums are demanding on soil acidity
. The indicator should be 6.5 - 7 pH (neutral) or slightly alkaline (7.5 - 8 pH). In a greenhouse, a bed for chrysanthemums is prepared from garden soil and turf, with the addition of river sand and humus (a bucket per 1 sq.m).
High acidity is suppressed with ash, lime, and dolomite flour. It is recommended to apply mineral fertilizers. Be sure to treat the soil against pests
: pour boiling water or copper sulfate solution.
Planting cuttings.
Can be carried out in a greenhouse at any time of the year. Based on the calculation that at least four months will pass
.
If a bouquet of chrysanthemums is needed for the New Year holidays, cuttings are planted in late August. Cuttings planted between October 10 and 15 will turn into flowering chrysanthemums by March 8.
Favorable time for planting is early morning or evening. Cuttings of bush varieties are planted at a distance of 40 cm from each other. It is enough to leave 20 cm between single-stem varieties. The roots are not deeply buried
, they grow parallel to the ground.
Proper watering.
- chrysanthemums are moisture-loving plants
. Watering should be plentiful. Flowers prefer soft water. The ideal option is rain or melt. To soften, you can add 3 grams of ash per 1 liter; - Do not allow water to get on the leaves. A regular supply of moisture to the roots of chrysanthemums will be ensured by a drip irrigation system
; - loosening will slow down the process of soil dehydration;
- The humidity level in the greenhouse during plant growth should be within 75%. When buds appear, the humidity is reduced to 65%. To increase the duration of flowering, watering is reduced to a minimum.
Temperature and light conditions.
Chrysanthemum loves a lot of light and moderate temperatures
. Rooted cuttings will develop quickly at temperatures not lower than 18 degrees. During the period of bud formation, the temperature in the greenhouse is reduced to 12 degrees. An adult plant will withstand cold temperatures down to -3 degrees, but the buds will die.
The light regime is adjusted depending on the phase of development of chrysanthemums
:
- Growing cuttings need long daylight hours (up to 18 hours). For winter forcing of chrysanthemums, important indicators are light intensity and spectral composition. LED or sodium lamps will help
provide comfortable conditions . - When the first buds appear, the day is shortened to 10 hours. In the summer, black film is used for this.
- Large-flowered chrysanthemums require complete darkness at night, otherwise they will not bloom.
- For regular formation of shoots, maintain a night temperature of 16 - 20 degrees.
It is important to avoid dew on the leaves. This leads to plant disease
Chrysanthemums need mineral fertilizers. At the first stage, nitrogen fertilizers are applied. They contribute to the growth of green mass and strengthening of the root system. During the development of flower shoots and the formation of buds, potassium supplements are necessary
. For long, lush flowering, phosphorus fertilizers are applied.
Once every seven to ten days they feed
infusion of mullein or chicken manure (1 liter for each plant). They prepare it like this: fill a bucket of dung (or two buckets of mullein) with water and leave for three days. Dilute a liter of infusion with ten liters of water.
Fertilizers are applied strictly at the roots into moist soil. Contact with leaves and flowers will cause burns. Too much fertilizer is more dangerous than too little. Excessive feeding causes oppression of chrysanthemums
.
Growing Chrysanthemums in a Greenhouse for Cutting + Sale > Planting + Care + Diseases: + Photo
Blooming chrysanthemums
Chrysanthemum is a bright addition to autumn, reminding a person of the bygone warmth and wild colors of summer. Such a beautiful flower can delight the eye in gloomy autumn weather and cause a sunny smile.
Growing chrysanthemums in a greenhouse is a pleasure, as an exciting hobby, or a business that provides considerable profit. The article will tell you how to do this.
Types of chrysanthemums for greenhouses
Before you start growing flowers, it is worth getting acquainted with the types of flowers recommended for growing in greenhouses.
There are approximately 150 species of chrysanthemums in the world, and through the efforts of breeders, their varietal diversity is increasing every year. Cultivating chrysanthemums in greenhouses has some advantages.
In this case:
- Optimum temperature and air humidity levels are ensured.
- Longer flowering time can be achieved.
- Plants are protected from natural pests.
- It is possible to organize conditions for growing rare varieties of chrysanthemums.
Chrysanthemums from the greenhouse
Beginner flower growers, in order to obtain maximum results, should give preference to zoned varieties that are easy to care for, such as:
- Indian chrysanthemums . They are distinguished by large single buds, with a diameter of up to 18 cm and a height of up to 80 cm.
- Korean chrysanthemums . Unpretentious in care, small in diameter, blooming profusely in the form of a bush up to 70 cm high.
Their main types are presented in the table:
Type of chrysanthemum | Peculiarities |
Indian chrysanthemum variety | |
Diplomat | They have hemispherical buds, up to 15 cm in diameter, wine red and purple in color. |
Princess Anne | Beautiful flowers with shades:
They can be completely white. The buds are flat with a diameter of approximately 14 cm. |
Indianapolis | Chrysanthemums with white, fairly large buds that have a hemispherical shape. |
Luyon | They have spider-shaped buds that can reach up to 17 cm in diameter. |
Blooming Ukraine | Huge flat buds with a lilac tint, up to 22 cm in diameter. |
Small-flowered Korean chrysanthemums | |
Alyonushka | These are compact bushes, up to 50 cm tall, blooming profusely with bright pink flowers, resembling the shape of a daisy in appearance. |
Amber | They have bright yellow double buds. |
Anniversary | Small buds of terracotta or lilac-pink color, up to 10 cm in diameter. |
Pearl | White semi-double buds, with a diameter of up to 5 cm. |
Summer | red semi-double buds, with a diameter of up to 8 cm. |
Greenhouse arrangement
Greenhouse in your garden
The greenhouse can be purchased ready-made (see Kremlin Greenhouse - the leader among domestic polycarbonate greenhouses), or assembled with your own hands. The video will show you how to do this.
A good option might be a greenhouse built in the attic. In this case, it is enough to learn how to plant chrysanthemums in pots, make stands for them and purchase cuttings.
To grow chrysanthemums in a greenhouse, you must provide:
- Good ventilation system.
- Abundant watering of plants. It is best if it is a drip irrigation system. When watering, ventilation in the greenhouse should increase.
- The humidity level in the room should be 70–75%. When the first buds appear, the humidity drops to 60–65%.
- To organize the cultivation of chrysanthemums in a greenhouse as a business, it is necessary to equip artificial lighting.
Plant propagation options
Methods of propagation of chrysanthemums:
Germination of seeds
Chrysanthemum cuttings
Dividing bushes
When growing chrysanthemums from seeds, it is not always possible to get the expected result.
To obtain a full-fledged plant, there are two ways:
- Seeds are planted in the spring, directly in open ground, when there is no threat of late frosts. Wherein:
- Holes are made in the garden bed at intervals of 20 cm.
- Spill with warm water.
- 2-3 seeds are dropped into this slurry.
- Cover with earth.
- Cover with film until shoots appear.
- The first shoots are watered with any liquid fertilizer.
- The soil is carefully loosened. The film is removed.
- When the growth of seedlings reaches 10 cm, one of the strongest shoots is left, the rest are removed.
With this growing method, chrysanthemums will bloom no earlier than autumn.
- Seedlings are grown from seeds. For this:
- Shallow boxes are purchased.
- A drainage system made of expanded clay is laid at the bottom. You can use a container with a lattice bottom.
- A small layer of soil or ready-made soil is poured.
- Seeds are laid out on top, lightly pressed to the ground if the varieties are perennial, and annual varieties are sprinkled with a thin layer.
- Spray with warm water.
- Cover with film until shoots appear.
- After 14 or 17 days, shoots should appear.
- The film cannot be removed immediately. The plants open gradually: on the first day no more than an hour for the plants to “breathe air”, then the ventilation time increases every day.
- Seedlings emerge at the 3-4 leaf stage. Very elongated and weak plants are removed.
- It is advisable to lower the room temperature to 16 - 18°C and provide illumination with an LED lamp.
- Be sure to feed the plants with mineral fertilizers.
Tip: When growing seedlings, it is necessary to ensure abundant watering. It should be borne in mind that when growing chrysanthemums from seeds, the resulting species may be very different from the parent form.
Planting cuttings
These are unpretentious and non-capricious flowers, but to grow them in a greenhouse, several important rules must be followed.
The process technology includes the following stages:
- The soil is being prepared. Chrysanthemums can be grown in garden soil with a small amount of sand and humus. In addition, the following are added per 1 m³:
- Lime – 5 kg.
- Superphosphate – 3 kg.
- Potassium sulfate – 2 kg.
- Calcium nitrate – 2 kg.
Soil preparation
Advice: Do not take soil that is highly acidic.
- The process is performed in the evening or early in the morning.
- The distance between cuttings is 30-40 cm.
- It is not recommended to deepen the roots.
Planting seedlings in the soil
- When growing flowers in summer, it is necessary to create shading under black polyethylene to avoid large amounts of sunlight.
- In winter, artificial lighting sources should be used.
- The temperature in the greenhouse should not be lower than 16°C.
- With the appearance of the first buds, daylight hours must be reduced to 10 hours, and the temperature maintained to 10°C.
- You can grow flowers in a greenhouse all year round.
- After planting the cuttings, after four months the flowers are ready for cutting.
Advice: Before planting chrysanthemums in a greenhouse in the fall, you should carefully prepare the soil and destroy all pests.
Saplings from a bouquet
There is nothing complicated when growing chrysanthemums from a given bouquet of flowers.
The instructions are as follows:
- The flowers you like are selected from the bouquet.
- Buds and leaves are removed.
- The tops of the stems are cut off and the stems are placed in water.
- When roots appear on the cuttings, they are planted.
- To plant a plant in a pot, its diameter is chosen to be at least 28 cm. Holes are made at the bottom of the container to allow excess water to escape.
- Planting chrysanthemums in pots must be done in a neutral substrate.
- To prevent root rotting, high-quality drainage from expanded clay or brick chips should be provided.
- Before planting flowers, the soil must be watered abundantly.
These simple rules will allow you to grow a chrysanthemum from a previously cut flower and extend the life of a beautiful but withered bouquet.
Plant care
Caring for any plants means, first of all, organizing proper watering. For this:
- Watering chrysanthemums should be plentiful. These are moisture-loving plants. It is better to take soft water for flowers. The ideal option is rain or melt water.
Watering chrysanthemum seedlings
You can soften the liquid by adding 3 grams of ash per 1 liter.
- Do not allow water to get on the leaves.
- Dehydration of the soil slows down its loosening.
Tip: To increase the flowering time of mature plants, watering should be reduced to a minimum.
Light and temperature in the greenhouse
Greenhouse arrangement
Chrysanthemum needs a lot of light and moderate temperature. Rooted cuttings develop well at a temperature of at least 18°C. When buds begin to form, the temperature in the greenhouse drops to 12 °C. Mature plants can withstand cold temperatures down to (-3 °C). But the buds may die.
The light regime is adjusted depending on the period of development of chrysanthemums:
- To grow, cuttings need long daylight hours, up to 18 hours. When grown in winter, it is important for chrysanthemums to provide intense lighting and spectral composition.
- After the first buds appear, the day shortens to 10 hours. In summer, black film is used for this.
- Chrysanthemum flowers are large in diameter and need complete darkness at night, otherwise they will not bloom.
- For proper formation of shoots, the night temperature should be 16 – 20°C.
Tip: Do not allow dew to appear on the leaves. This will lead to plant disease.
Feeding chrysanthemums
These flowers require mineral fertilizers. For this:
- At the first stage, nitrogen fertilizers are applied. They help strengthen the root system and increase green mass.
- During the period of development and formation of buds and flower shoots, potassium supplements are necessary.
- Long and lush flowering is ensured by phosphorus fertilizers.
- Every seven to ten days, the plants are fed with an infusion of chicken manure or mullein at the rate of 1 liter per plant. Preparation of the composition:
- Take a bucket of chicken droppings or two mullein.
- Filled with water.
- Infuse for three days.
- A liter of infusion is diluted with ten liters of water.
- Fertilizers are applied strictly at the root. In this case, the soil must be moist.
Tip: Do not allow the solution to come into contact with leaves and flowers. This will cause them to burn, and an excess of fertilizers causes oppression of chrysanthemums.
Plant diseases. Their prevention and treatment
Sick flower
Chrysanthemum is a fairly hardy plant and is resistant to pests. Diseases are the result of improper care.
Main mistakes:
- The air temperature has been exceeded. Chrysanthemums love the sun, but heat above 25°C causes leaf burn.
- The watering schedule has been disrupted. If there is an excess of moisture, the roots begin to rot. Due to lack of water, the leaves turn yellow and the buds drop.
- Presence of pests.
- Aphid.
- Spider mite.
In order to get rid of such troubles, you can use the following plant treatment:
- Dilute a piece of laundry soap in 10 liters of warm water. Spray flowers once every ten days.
- Pass the head of garlic through a meat grinder, mix in 10 liters of water, leave for thirty minutes, strain. Spray chrysanthemums with this solution.
- You can wipe the leaves, but this is a rather labor-intensive process.
Treatment should be carried out on sick plants and healthy ones. The main enemy of chrysanthemums is the nematode. Infection of flowers is indicated by blackened lower leaves. Diseased plants should be burned. There is no use in fighting.
Chrysanthemum is a beautiful autumn flower. Growing it can bring pleasure, and when organizing a business, good profit.
Source: https://parnik-teplitsa.ru/hrizantemy-v-teplice-415
What varieties of chrysanthemums are optimal for forcing?
For forcing chrysanthemums I use the following varieties:
- Viking (light pink inflorescences, hemispherical shape, diameter 13.5 cm, plant height 90-100 cm);
- Mepho White (white inflorescences, hemispherical shape, diameter 16.6 cm, plant height 100 cm);
- Indianapolis Yellow (yellow inflorescences, flat shape, diameter 17 cm, plant height 120 cm);
- Donlops White Giant (white inflorescences, ray-shaped, diameter 21 cm, plant height 120 cm);
- Balcombe Perfection Red (inflorescences are reddish-brown, hemispherical in shape, diameter 15.5 cm, plant height 100 cm).
Vladimir SHULGA, agronomist-vegetable grower, Kiev region, p. Tarasovka Magazine "Ogorodnik" Photo: pixabay.com
Agricultural technology for growing greenhouse flowers
Cultivating flowers in a well-equipped greenhouse is not very different from usual, but still has its own characteristics. We will have to make sure that the plants are in conditions as close to natural as possible.
Preparing the soil mixture
Suitable soil may be right under your feet, but for use in a greenhouse it requires preliminary preparation:
- After the end of frost in the spring, cut off the top layer of soil 5-8 cm thick.
- Place parts of the formation in low piles and cover with opaque material.
- As soon as it gets hot, cover the piles with transparent material and water them periodically throughout the summer.
- In the fall, sift the soil and begin to use it for planting greenhouse plants.
Such actions allow you to cleanse the soil of unwanted impurities (weeds, insect larvae, pathogenic bacteria and viruses) thanks to the natural biological process of “burning” the soil. In addition, the soil for planting should include sand and humus in proportions depending on the specific plants being grown. Subsequently, you can use the same soil for several years, periodically fertilizing it, clearing it of weeds and digging it up.
When growing flowers in small quantities in a greenhouse, peat greenhouses are convenient - prepared soil placed in a polyethylene bag with slots for planting plants. The advantage of packed peat soil is its ability to retain moisture for a long time and retain nutrients.
Disease and pest control
When growing chrysanthemums for sale, special attention must be paid to the quality of planting material. If agricultural technology is fully followed, chrysanthemum bushes grow well and are not at all affected by diseases
After a period of prolonged rains, it is recommended to carry out preventive treatment with fungicides. Starting in August, plants are watered only in the morning to prevent the appearance of fungal diseases. Chrysanthemums can be affected by gray rot and downy mildew. To stop the spread of these diseases, plants are sprayed with Skor (2 ml per 10 liters of water) or Topaz (4 ml per 10 liters of water).
The most common pests on chrysanthemums are aphids, thrips, spider mites, caterpillars and slugs. The drugs “Enzhio”, “Iskra”, etc. are used against ticks and aphids.
To protect against slugs, metaldehyde granules are scattered under the bushes. The most dangerous pest of chrysanthemums is the nematode; a sign of its presence can be blackening of the lower leaves. Plants damaged by nematodes must be removed and burned. In an area infected with this pest, chrysanthemums cannot be planted for several more years.
Business plan for growing flowers
Many entrepreneurs consider growing flowers as a business. Flowers, including chrysanthemums and roses, are sold all year round. People give bouquets of roses and chrysanthemums for anniversaries, memorable events, birthdays and even for no reason. At the same time, chrysanthemums and roses will bring the greatest income in winter. This means that greenhouses must be used to grow flowers. Only this approach will significantly increase revenue, because in the cold season flowers can be sold at a much higher price, which means making a greater profit.
The basis of the flower business will be a greenhouse business plan for growing flowers, which will reflect all aspects of this activity. Flowers are capricious plants, so here you will need to carefully study all the information that relates to growing specific types of flowers. If you have little knowledge in floriculture, it is recommended to start by growing one type of flower. If you have certain skills, then it is better to grow several types of flowers: carnations, petunias, crocuses, nasturtiums, roses, tulips, cacti and orchids. This will allow you to count on more impressive profits.
Features of cultivation
How to grow chrysanthemums in a greenhouse? Chrysanthemums are unpretentious and are ready to forgive novice gardeners a number of mistakes. Simple rules will allow you to get a healthy, strong, regularly flowering plant.
Soil preparation.
Chrysanthemums are demanding on soil acidity. The indicator should be 6.5 - 7 pH (neutral) or slightly alkaline (7.5 - 8 pH). In a greenhouse, a bed for chrysanthemums is prepared from garden soil and turf, with the addition of river sand and humus (a bucket per 1 sq.m).
High acidity is suppressed with ash, lime, and dolomite flour. It is recommended to apply mineral fertilizers. Be sure to treat the soil against pests: pour boiling water or a solution of copper sulfate.
Planting cuttings.
Can be carried out in a greenhouse at any time of the year. Based on the calculation that at least four months will pass from the time of planting the cuttings to obtaining a full-fledged flower.
If a bouquet of chrysanthemums is needed for the New Year holidays, cuttings are planted in late August. Cuttings planted between October 10 and 15 will turn into flowering chrysanthemums by March 8.
Favorable time for planting is early morning or evening. Cuttings of bush varieties are planted at a distance of 40 cm from each other. It is enough to leave 20 cm between single-stem varieties. The roots are not deeply buried; they grow parallel to the ground.
Proper watering.
- chrysanthemums are moisture-loving plants. Watering should be plentiful. Flowers prefer soft water. The ideal option is rain or melt. To soften, you can add 3 grams of ash per 1 liter;
- Do not allow water to get on the leaves. A regular supply of moisture to the roots of chrysanthemums will be ensured by a drip irrigation system;
- loosening will slow down the process of soil dehydration;
- The humidity level in the greenhouse during plant growth should be within 75%. When buds appear, the humidity is reduced to 65%. To increase the duration of flowering, watering is reduced to a minimum.
Temperature and light conditions.
Chrysanthemum loves a lot of light and moderate temperatures. Rooted cuttings will develop quickly at temperatures not lower than 18 degrees. During the period of bud formation, the temperature in the greenhouse is reduced to 12 degrees. An adult plant will withstand cold temperatures down to -3 degrees, but the buds will die.
The light regime is adjusted depending on the phase of development of chrysanthemums:
- Growing cuttings need long daylight hours (up to 18 hours). For winter forcing of chrysanthemums, important indicators are light intensity and spectral composition. LED or sodium lamps will help provide comfortable conditions.
- When the first buds appear, the day is shortened to 10 hours. In the summer, black film is used for this.
- Large-flowered chrysanthemums require complete darkness at night, otherwise they will not bloom.
- For regular formation of shoots, maintain a night temperature of 16 - 20 degrees.
It is important to avoid dew on the leaves. This leads to plant disease
Technological process
These flowers are unpretentious and not capricious, but to work on growing chrysanthemums in a greenhouse, you must follow certain important rules. The technological process has certain stages:
- The soil is selected.
- Cuttings are planted.
- Technology is followed.
- Watering.
- Feeding flowers.
Garden-type soil is excellent for the process of growing chrysanthemums. You need to add humus and sand to it. Soil with high acidity cannot be used. Cuttings are planted in the evening or early in the morning. The distance between cuttings is 30 to 40 cm. Experienced gardeners do not advise deepening the roots.
Experienced gardeners provide cultivation of annual and perennial varieties of chrysanthemums from seeds.
When growing flowers in summer, you can use black polyethylene to provide shade and solve the problem of excess sunlight. Artificial lighting sources can be used in winter. In the greenhouse, the temperature should not be lower than 16 - 18 degrees. Daylight hours are reduced to 10 hours when the first buds appear, and the temperature should not exceed 10 degrees.
Greenhouse construction
To maximize the use of solar energy and save electricity, a thermos greenhouse is ideal. Greenhouse for growing roses, petunias, chrysanthemums, carnations
Installed only on the foundation, not recommended on the ground. Since the greenhouse structure is not heavy, a strip foundation can be installed under it. The base must have a height of 0.3 meters so that the elements of the greenhouse structure are not subject to corrosion.
The greenhouse can have a wooden or metal frame, but it is recommended to use a metal profile. To cover the roof of a greenhouse, cellular polycarbonate, which can withstand snow loads well, is best suited.
Recommended parameters for a greenhouse with a pitched roof:
- 20 m – length of the structure
- 5 m – width
- 1.8 m, 2.5 m – height of opposite walls
A pitched roof is made in order to ensure the most effective penetration of sunlight into the greenhouse, as a result of which it will warm up better.
The northern side of the greenhouse for growing chrysanthemums, carnations, petunias, roses, from which there is no direct sunlight, is constructed from opaque material (wood, cinder blocks). Here you can arrange a place for an electric boiler and storage of the necessary equipment.
A solar collector is also equipped on the north side, designed to process sunlight into heat, which is directed inside with the help of a ventilation system. In a thermos greenhouse, such a collector is an opaque black film. To achieve greater efficiency, hot air is supplied to the seedlings of petunias, roses, carnations, and chrysanthemums using plastic pipes that are laid throughout the bed.
In winter, you need to remove snow around the greenhouse and put roofing felt on the ground. He will warm it up. Also, to maintain the temperature, you will need an electric boiler, but not a wood-burning stove.
How to protect a chrysanthemum from frost
If you grow chrysanthemums from cuttings, then in October install a frame on the site and stretch the film over it - this will be protection from frost.
Young plants are stored in a cool room at above-zero temperatures until February, then exposed to light and heat. You can store it in the house, but then you need to periodically pinch the plants, otherwise the shoots will stretch into growth. The drug “Athlet” slows down the stretching of shoots.
When aphids and mites appear:
- use the insecticidal preparations Actellik and Ratibor;
- You can try to get rid of aphids with flea drops. Dilute 2-3 drops in one glass of water and spray the plants. Repeat the procedure after 3-4 days;
- wash with soapy water every 7-10 days;
- using pyrethrum: 200 g of the drug per 10 liters of water, leave for 12 hours. Take 50 ml of concentrated solution, add 50 g of soap and pour in 10 liters of water;
- Garlic extract is effective: crush 50 g of garlic and add 1 glass of water. Strain after 20 minutes and add water to a volume of 1 liter. In the evening, take 1.5 cups of infusion, dilute it in a bucket of water and wash the plants.
Once again, you can clearly study the features of caring for chrysanthemums and consider in detail the methods of propagating the plant by watching the following video.
This plant is in demand among gardeners as a late greenhouse flower for bouquets. In addition, potted varieties of grandiflora chrysanthemum have become very popular.
The species itself “ Chrysanthemum grandiflorum ” (Chrysanthemum morifolium) is not found in wild form, but it is described from varieties grown in the gardens of ancient China and Japan. That is, all those varieties of large-flowered chrysanthemums that can now be bought are completely artificial plants bred as a result of many years and even centuries of selection.
Description of the species - biology
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6 Reviews
I kept the large-flowered chrysanthemum in a pot that I received as a gift all winter in a cool, ventilated room (with a temperature of about +18 degrees; at +25 degrees and above, the buds quickly dry out). After flowering, the plant was not pruned, but only the yellowed leaves were removed. I replanted it in universal soil and did not feed it with anything. Watered abundantly as the soil dried and sprayed 1-2 times a week.
Closer to summer, I transplanted the chrysanthemum into open ground: I thoroughly watered the soil ball, letting it soak, and took it out of the pot along with the plant. I planted it in a bed with turf soil and watered it. The gift took root well, pleased with its flowering all season and even bloomed the next year. I always follow the rule: plant chrysanthemums in a shaded place - in direct sunlight they quickly dry out. She kept the soil under the plant moist (what a water farmer!). I fed it once every 2 weeks with complex fertilizer for flowering plants. Chrysanthemum loves spraying (at least daily!) - I practiced every three days, but only after sunset, trying not to get it on the flowers and buds so as not to cause burns.
Greenhouse varieties
Of the more than 20 types of chrysanthemums, the following varieties are most suitable for greenhouse conditions:
- Chrysanthemums "Balcombe Perfection" are a plant with medium-sized spherical yellow or orange buds;
- “White Spider” is translated as “white spider”, since the petals of these flowers look like long needles of a light shade;
- "Rayonnante" has purple tints and a longer stem;
- The largest inflorescences are produced by the Bornholm variety, presented in beige and brown tones;
- 'Diplomat' is known for its bright red blooms, with shades ranging from muted pink to rich crimson and burgundy;
- Chrysanthemums of the "Luyona" variety will delight gardeners with carved petals, long stems and lemon-yellow buds.
Before you start growing a plant, you need to use photos and images to determine the desired variety of flower, and also first study the accompanying information about the adaptability of chrysanthemums to greenhouse conditions.
Growing from seeds
Experienced gardeners provide cultivation of annual and perennial varieties of chrysanthemums from seeds. Seeds are planted in spring. Place 2 - 3 seeds in each hole, water them with warm water, and then sprinkle them with a little earth. To ensure good heating, it is necessary to lay the film.
If you are interested in growing chrysanthemums from seeds, you need to know that their flowering will begin in August. Early flowering is achieved by growing chrysanthemums from seedlings.
Seeds are planted in spring. Place 2 - 3 seeds in each hole, water them with warm water, and then sprinkle them with a little earth.
Medium varieties of chrysanthemums
These chrysanthemums bloom in October. They are also divided into subspecies based on flower size.
Medium large-flowered varieties
The needle-shaped flower of the Anastasia variety attracts attention with its bright color - white, yellow, green or light pink. Bud size 18–20 cm
The Ping Pong variety is distinguished by large spherical flowers on a long peduncle. It is good to use it for bouquets.
The Orange variety has an interesting spherical shape of bright yellow flowers in a size not exceeding 20 cm.
The Polizadena variety attracts attention with spherical white or yellow flowers 17–20 cm in diameter
The Regina variety is distinguished by large white flowers, similar to balls up to 18 cm in size.
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The flowers of the Snowdon variety are bright, white, spherical and very large. Their size can reach up to 24 cm.
The Chita variety with large spherical pink-white flowers is ideal for bouquets. The size of the buds is 20 cm.
Medium medium-flowered varieties
The Sterling variety, despite its decorative nature, is very unpretentious and winters well.
The Milka Lilac variety has very bright flowers, the bush reaches 60 cm.
The Gazelle variety blooms very profusely and for a long time from October to November.
The Crimean variety Valentina Tereshkova has large leaves and bright pink flowers up to 15 cm in size.
The Safina variety is distinguished by needle-shaped yellow-orange flowers up to 16 cm in diameter. Looks very unusual, winters well.
The spherical flowers of the Tom Pierce variety are red-golden in color, their size is 15–17 cm.
The Eleanor variety has flowers that look like gerberas, the color is pink, yellow or white, the bud size is 16 cm.
Medium small-flowered varieties
The button blooms very luxuriantly. Up to 160 flowers open on the bush at the same time.
The flowers of the Amadea variety resemble a simple white or lilac chamomile. It looks very beautiful on the bush and blooms until November.
The Amazon variety is distinguished by flowers in the shape of a small lilac daisy.
The Bacardi variety has the peculiarity of abundant flowering; the buds themselves look like white daisies, less often pink.
In the Grand Pink variety, 150 blue or lilac “daisies” bloom simultaneously on a bush.
Flowers of the Monna Lisa variety can be white or pink and resemble daisies.
The amazing flowers of the Sabo variety also resemble chamomile, but with an interesting lilac-white color.
The Lorna Dunk variety is characterized by long flowering and resistance to cold weather.
Variety selection
More than one hundred and fifty species of chrysanthemums are known, and selection work is ongoing. It is better to choose zoned varieties that are resistant to temperature changes and diseases, with a medium or late flowering period.
Indian chrysanthemums (a large species group with large flowers) and Korean chrysanthemums (with small flowers of various shapes and colors) bloom well in greenhouses. Large-flowered chrysanthemums have a tall, strong stem and decorative inflorescences up to 18 cm in diameter. Reaches a height of 80 cm.
Recognized greenhouse varieties :
- "Lujone";
- "Indianopolis";
- "Polysade";
- "Princess Anne";
- "Festival";
- "Diplomat".
Small-flowered chrysanthemums grow in bushes reaching a height of 40–70 cm. They are less whimsical than single large-flowered varieties. They bloom for a long time.
for growing indoors :
- "Talaxi";
- "Nimbo";
- "Sudis";
- "Dramatic"
- "Alyonushka";
- "Saba."
Watering and fertilizing large-flowered chrysanthemums
During the period of active summer growth of chrysanthemums, in order to obtain full-fledged flowers in the fall, the main task of plant care is watering and timely provision of necessary nutrients.
At the beginning of the growth of young chrysanthemums, they need to be watered frequently until the root system is strong enough. When watering chrysanthemums, I try not to wet the leaves.
The most important nutritional element for the growth and development of beautiful chrysanthemums is nitrogen, which affects the height of plants, the color and size of their leaves and inflorescences. With increasing doses of nitrogen added to the soil, the height of chrysanthemums, the size of their leaves and the length of the petals, the diameter and doubleness of the inflorescences increase. Also, the color of the leaves and inflorescences of chrysanthemums fed with nitrogen becomes more intense, and the plants in general become more decorative. However, the positive effect of nitrogen on the development of chrysanthemums is observed only with its optimal ratio with other nutrients (mainly phosphorus).
With a lack of nitrogen, chrysanthemum bushes form weak, with pale green leaves and small, irregularly shaped inflorescences; They bloom very late. When there is a lack of nitrogen in the soil, this nutrient is used by plants secondary (that is, the upper growing part of the shoots “takes” nitrogen from the lower part of the plant). Then the lighter lower leaves on the shoots of chrysanthemums indicate a lack of nitrogen in the substrate.
Excess nitrogen also affects plants negatively: chrysanthemums grow weak, their leaves become dark green, juicy and fragile; Over-fertilized plants also bloom late.
Nitrogen is characterized by a narrow range of optimal doses, so I be sure to re-apply it - in the form of several feedings (especially during the main vegetative growth of chrysanthemums). It is best to feed chrysanthemums with natural organic fertilizers: chicken droppings, fermented grass, mullein infusion, vermicompost infusion, etc.
The positive effect of nitrogen on chrysanthemums appears only with a sufficient amount of phosphorus, which is especially important during the formation of inflorescences. Phosphorus accelerates the flowering of chrysanthemums and increases plant resistance to disease
With a lack of phosphorus, there is a severe delay in the growth and development of chrysanthemum bushes: the plants bloom late and have small inflorescences; the leaves become small, acquire a light green color, and lose their elasticity. In case of severe phosphorus deficiency, the lower leaves of the shoots dry out.
Growing chrysanthemums for sale, or Flowers as a business – VIKO PLUS Publishing House
The chrysanthemum is called the queen of autumn, because it is at this time that its bright inflorescences decorate and enliven the garden. But chrysanthemums can be grown throughout the season - from February to December inclusive, and in heated greenhouses - even during the winter months.
If you organize the process correctly, you can sell planting material and chrysanthemum flowers all year round. This article will help you understand how much effort it takes to grow chrysanthemums in large quantities.
But the methods of selling the grown products are a different story.
How can you make money on chrysanthemums?
Chrysanthemums, unlike other perennials, reproduce quite quickly. Already in the first season, from each mother bush you can get from ten to thirty cuttings (depending on the variety). Within a few months, young seedlings manage to gain strength and, with good care, by autumn they turn into beautiful flowering bushes.
That is why growing chrysanthemums is one of the most attractive areas of the flower business.
There are many options for making money on chrysanthemums, some of the most popular include:
- sale of rooted cuttings;
- sale of potted chrysanthemums;
- growing cut flowers;
- sale of flowering bushes;
- sale of queen plants (bushes with shoots).
You can promote your business in one direction, doing, for example, only growing chrysanthemums for cutting, or you can combine and develop several directions at once.
It will be easier for flower growers with little experience to grow chrysanthemums in the usual time frame from root shoots or rooted cuttings.
What do you need to start a small flower business?
To grow chrysanthemums in large quantities, in addition to planting material, you will need the following:
- cassettes or seedling cups;
- pots with a diameter of 18-25 cm;
- supports for supporting plants;
- twine or other materials for tying stems;
- plates (markers) to indicate varieties;
- universal soil for seedlings;
- rooting agent (liquid or powder);
- growth stimulator;
- nitrogen and potassium-phosphorus fertilizers;
- fungicides and pest control products;
- white agrofibre - for protection against frost;
- black film (or agrofibre) - for shading plants and mulching the soil.
Chrysanthemum is not a very capricious young lady, but, like most flowers, it requires its share of attention. If you plan to grow this crop not only for your own pleasure, but also for sale, then try to thoroughly understand the basic rules of caring for it.
Growing chrysanthemums is one of the most attractive areas of the flower business. © activerain
Preserving chrysanthemum queen cells in winter is the basis of income for the next season
Mother bushes are the basis of our future business. You can preserve queen cells until spring in different ways:
- leave to winter in open ground;
- dig in an unheated greenhouse and cover with agrofibre;
- make a shelter in a greenhouse or trench;
- bring into the basement or cellar;
- Store in any cool, dry place at a temperature of 0 to +5°C.
Chrysanthemums in open ground or buried are well preserved if all conditions for their wintering are met. Water should not accumulate in storage areas; it is also necessary to provide at least minimal insulation for the roots (dry plant stems, a layer of leaves or spruce branches, etc.).
If the queen cells are stored in a trench, then in the fall you need to spread mouse poison there. Rodents often hide in such shelters and can greatly damage the planting material over the winter.
It is much easier to control the condition of the uterine roots of chrysanthemums if they are stored in a basement or other room throughout the winter. If necessary, plants are watered, treated with fungicides and protected from pests.
You also need to make sure that during the thaw the temperature does not rise too high, otherwise the chrysanthemum stems will stretch and the quality of the queen cells will decrease.
In February or early March, when the shoots begin to actively grow, the mother bushes are brought into a bright room or into a greenhouse. After about 2 weeks, when the stems have grown to a height of 10-15 cm, you can begin cutting chrysanthemums.
Reproduction of planting material
It is recommended to divide and plant chrysanthemum rhizomes annually so that the bushes grow stronger and healthier. But this is not enough if seedlings are needed in large quantities. To obtain more planting material, chrysanthemums are propagated in two ways:
- planting root shoots;
- rooting cuttings.
It is not difficult to propagate chrysanthemums by root layering. You just need to plant the shoots with roots in separate cups and put them for growing. But planting material obtained in this way is heterogeneous. In addition, much fewer bushes emerge from layering than from green cuttings.
To obtain seedlings of the same size, chrysanthemums are propagated as follows:
- Take cuttings from the mother bush and shorten them to about 6-8 cm.
- The lower leaves are torn off, the sections are sprinkled with Kornevin powder and the prepared cuttings are immediately planted in a light, moisture-intensive substrate.
- To form roots, plants need to be provided with high humidity, so they are covered with film or plastic bottles.
- The planted cuttings are ventilated and sprayed with water daily.
- When the leaves stop withering (from about the third week), ammonium nitrate is added to the water for irrigation. Plants need to be watered with this solution once a week, gradually increasing the concentration from 0.1% to 0.3%.
For rooting, you can use pure perlite - the root system grows much faster in it. In April-May, when the temperature rises, cuttings can be rooted in open ground. After 2-3 weeks, roots should already appear on them, this is evidenced by the beginning of the growth of new leaves. As a rule, after a month, chrysanthemum cuttings are ready for planting in a permanent place.
To obtain more planting material, chrysanthemums are propagated by cuttings. © NaSotke
Growing multiflora chrysanthemums in pots
Planting material is prepared using the above method. Rooted cuttings are planted in containers with a diameter of 18-25 cm (the volume of the pot depends on the growth vigor of the bush). Any substrate is suitable (except peat, which dries out very quickly). Complex fertilizer for flowering plants (“Master”, “Kemira”) is immediately added to the prepared earthen mixture.
There are certain standards for multiflora bushes grown in pots for sale. Medium-growing varieties (bushes) should reach a diameter of 75-85 cm, vigorous-growing ones - 95-105 cm. The bush should have an ideal spherical shape. This effect can be achieved by planting on a hill, which is done as follows:
- First, a mound up to 30 cm high is formed along the entire length of the bed.
- At a distance of 75-90 cm, dig holes for pots in the embankment.
- The entire length of the ridge is covered with black film, sprinkling its edges with earth.
- Slots are made in the film above the holes (crosswise) into which pots with rooted cuttings are inserted.
- Drip irrigation is immediately installed on the prepared beds.
To get plants of the highest quality, you must feed them with organic and mineral fertilizers. The first fertilizing with ammonium nitrate (10-15 g/m²) is done 15-20 days after planting, and then every 2 weeks.
Nitrogen fertilizers should not be overused, since an excess of nitrogen in the soil can cause burns. In addition, plants overfed with saltpeter become too tender and may be more often affected by aphids.
When buds appear on the bushes, chrysanthemums already require less nitrogen. At this time, potassium-phosphorus fertilizers are applied to the bushes, and foliar treatment is also carried out with potassium humate or the “Bud” preparation.
It must be remembered that even a short-term lack of moisture during the growth period can greatly affect the quality of the bushes. And only in the budding phase the need for water is slightly reduced. Conversely, to prolong the flowering of chrysanthemums, they are kept in drier soil. If night temperatures rise above 16°C in August, flowering may be delayed by 1-2 weeks.
There are certain standards for multiflora bushes grown in pots for sale. © Lowe's
Growing chrysanthemums for cutting
For bouquets and flower arrangements, large-flowered chrysanthemums are most often used, which, as a rule, are grown in one stem.
But in recent years, bright and unusual multi-stemmed santini chrysanthemums have also come into fashion. Some of them resemble daisies, others look like fluffy balls or pompoms.
All cut varieties are grown using two main technologies - traditional and controlled.
Technology of traditional culture
To obtain chrysanthemums for cutting in the early stages (August–October), small film greenhouses are used or plants are grown in an area well protected from the wind. By the end of August, the first inflorescences may be ready for cutting. If severe frosts are expected at the beginning of autumn, a temporary portable frame is placed over the plants and plastic film is stretched.
Large-flowered chrysanthemums are usually grown in 1 stem or 2-3 stems are left. Bushes are formed using pinches, do this like this:
- After 6-8 leaves appear, the top is cut off or pinched.
- When plants produce new shoots, select 2-3 of the strongest ones and remove the rest.
- During the season, the bushes are pruned several more times, removing excess shoots.
Chrysanthemum is a short-day plant. Most varieties bloom in September-October, and the latest ones open their buds only in November.
To speed up the flowering of chrysanthemums, flower growers artificially shorten daylight hours by covering plants with black film or agrofibre in the morning and evening hours.
They begin shading 5-6 weeks before the desired date, and when the buds begin to color, the shelter is completely removed.
Guided culture technology
If chrysanthemum cutting begins in November-December or continues all year round, heated greenhouses are used for cultivation. In winter and autumn, when the day length is shortened, flowers require additional lighting.
It is important that the maximum amount of sunlight penetrates the greenhouse at this time. Throughout the winter season, glass must be cleaned and washed regularly. To enhance the intensity of light entering the greenhouse, it is recommended to paint the frames and supporting elements of the greenhouse white.
Daylight hours are increased to 15-16 hours a day with the help of artificial lighting. For this purpose, 100 W lamps are used, suspended at a height of 1.5 m above the ground and at a distance of 1.6 m from each other. During the period of bud formation, the lamps are turned off, and then the inflorescences are formed under natural light.
To obtain chrysanthemums for cutting in the early stages (August–October), small film greenhouses or shelters are used
Disease and pest control
When growing chrysanthemums for sale, special attention must be paid to the quality of planting material. If agricultural technology is fully followed, chrysanthemum bushes grow well and are not at all affected by diseases.
After a period of prolonged rains, it is recommended to carry out preventive treatment with fungicides. Starting in August, plants are watered only in the morning to prevent the appearance of fungal diseases.
Chrysanthemums can be affected by gray rot and downy mildew.
To stop the spread of these diseases, plants are sprayed with Skor (2 ml per 10 liters of water) or Topaz (4 ml per 10 liters of water).
The most common pests on chrysanthemums are aphids, thrips, spider mites, caterpillars and slugs. The drugs “Enzhio”, “Iskra”, etc. are used against ticks and aphids.
To protect against slugs, metaldehyde granules are scattered under the bushes. The most dangerous pest of chrysanthemums is the nematode; a sign of its presence can be blackening of the lower leaves. Plants damaged by nematodes must be removed and burned. In an area infected with this pest, chrysanthemums cannot be planted for several more years.
Source: www.botanichka.ru
Source: https://nedelka-klin.ru/2019/02/03/vyrashhivanie-hrizantem-na-prodazhu-ili-tsvety-kak-biznes/
Reproduction options
Chrysanthemums are propagated by seeds, cuttings and dividing the bush.
Growing chrysanthemums from seeds.
The method is painstaking and does not always give the expected result.
There are two ways to obtain a full-fledged plant:
- Plant the seeds in open ground in the spring, when the threat of late frosts has passed.
Make holes in the garden bed at a distance of 20 cm from each other and spill them with warm water. Place 2-3 seeds into the resulting slurry and sprinkle with earth.
Cover with film on top until shoots appear
The first shoots should be watered with any liquid fertilizer and the soil should be carefully loosened
Do not cover with film. When the seedlings grow to 10 cm, leave one strong shoot, the rest are removed.
With this growing method, chrysanthemums will begin to bloom no earlier than autumn.
Grow seedlings from seeds.
To do this, you will need shallow boxes with a drainage system (put expanded clay on the bottom or take containers with a lattice bottom). Pour a small layer of soil (you can buy ready-made soil), spread the seeds on top, lightly press them to the ground (perennial varieties) or sprinkle them with a thin layer (annual varieties).
Spray with warm water, cover with film until shoots appear. Make sure that the soil does not dry out. The temperature in the room should not be lower than 23 degrees. Shoots will appear in two to two and a half weeks. The film cannot be removed immediately. The plants open gradually. First, they are allowed to “breathe air” for no more than an hour, increasing the ventilation time every day.
The video contains information about growing chrysanthemums from seeds:
Seedlings must be thinned at the stage of 3-4 true leaves. Remove plants that are too elongated or weak. It is advisable to lower the room temperature to 16 - 18 degrees and provide illumination with an LED lamp. Feeding with mineral fertilizers is required.
When grown from seeds, the resulting chrysanthemum species may differ significantly from the original parent form.
Propagation by cuttings
The best way to grow chrysanthemums using the “controlled flowering” technology. Allows you to plan the planting date depending on the desired time to receive flowers. For cuttings, shoots are taken from the main root (mother plant). Select a leaf with a bud and make a cut above it. The cuttings are cut seven centimeters long, the end is moistened with a biogrowth stimulator (Kornevin, Etamon).
Additional information in the video about propagating chrysanthemums by cuttings:
You can immerse the cuttings in a solution of warm water and honey for four hours (half a teaspoon per 0.5 liter). A layer of well-moistened soil is placed in the box, and two to three centimeters of river sand are poured on top. Need to know! The sand must first be calcined in order to destroy pathogenic microorganisms.
The cuttings are stuck into the sand at an angle of 45º. The room should not be hot, keep the soil constantly moist. Transplant into a greenhouse when the cuttings take root. This will happen in three weeks.
Seedlings from a bouquet are grown using the cutting method.
- Remove leaves and buds from the plant.
- Cut off the top, leaving 8-10 cm of the plant. Place the cutting in water.
- Wait for the roots to appear and plant them in a greenhouse.
Reproduction by dividing the bush.
The easiest, but unproductive method. Apply in early spring, before the beginning of the growing season. The bush is dug up and freed from the clod of earth. Using a knife, divide into several parts without damaging the roots. Three strong shoots are left in each. The woody, rotten ones are removed. After dividing, chrysanthemums are planted in the ground and watered abundantly.
Useful tips in the video on propagating chrysanthemums by dividing the bush:
How to grow seedlings from a bouquet?
Amateur plant growers may have questions about growing chrysanthemums from a bouquet. There are no particular difficulties in this method. You can use donated bouquets to grow flowers you like. This method is the most common type for growing chrysanthemums at home. Cut flowers are grown in the same way as cuttings.
Let's look at the method of growing chrysanthemums from a bouquet. To do this, you can use the following instructions:
- Select flowers from the bouquet that you like. It is necessary to remove leaves and buds from them. Then the top is cut off from the stem and placed in water.
You can grow chrysanthemums from a bouquet given to you.
- When roots appear on the cuttings, they begin to be planted in a flowerbed in a place where there is no wind or drafts. If it is necessary to grow a plant in a pot, then choose one with a diameter of at least 28 cm. It is necessary to make holes at the bottom of the container to ensure the drainage of excess water.
- To plant chrysanthemums in pots, use a neutral substrate. Reliable drainage is created in advance to prevent rotting of the roots. Before planting, abundant watering of the soil is required.
- Before starting work on growing chrysanthemums at home, you need to familiarize yourself with these simple rules. This will ensure that the cut chrysanthemum flower can be grown. Wilted chrysanthemum bouquets can be grown in the garden or on a windowsill.
Organizing a business for growing chrysanthemums in a greenhouse
You can make good money by growing flowers in a greenhouse. Chrysanthemums occupied the largest share of the cut flower market, competing even with greenhouse-grown tulips. Using “controlled flowering” technology, flowers can be obtained in a short time in summer and winter. Let's look at the process of growing chrysanthemums as a business.
There are many varieties of chrysanthemums that can be grown in protected soil. They are divided into different groups based on petal shape and flowering. All groups have their own different options suitable for cutting. There are also universal and potted products.
Novice gardeners are often interested in the time of planting chrysanthemums. If they are planned to be grown in a greenhouse, then the process can be carried out at any time of the year.
To grow and care for chrysanthemums using controlled technology, varieties are used that form beautiful inflorescences under any conditions. In the category of one group, different types of colors are available for selection: bronze, dark red, white and others.
Before growing a spherical chrysanthemum, you need to select a suitable variety, and then get down to business.
Equipment
Before the process of growing chrysanthemums in a greenhouse, you need to purchase the required equipment. First, the ventilation system is installed
It is important to ensure abundant watering, for which drip irrigation systems are used. When watering, increase room ventilation
To get a good result, it is important to ensure abundant watering of the flowers. Do not forget about the humidity level in the greenhouse, which should be between 70 and 75%
When the first buds appear, this level drops to 60–65%. To organize the process of growing flowers in a greenhouse as a business, it is necessary to use artificial lighting
Do not forget about the humidity level in the greenhouse, which should be between 70 and 75%. When the first buds appear, this level drops to 60–65%. To organize the process of growing flowers in a greenhouse as a business, it is necessary to use artificial lighting.
Costs and profitability
The cost of one cutting is from 18 to 20 rubles. The price varies depending on the number of seedlings and variety that you purchase. In May, the cost of cuttings decreases to 15 rubles. In the summer they sell for 7 to 8 rubles.
In addition, you need to invest in a greenhouse and equipment. The total cost of the initial investment depends on the planned volume of chrysanthemum cultivation. Added to the expenses are the salaries of assistants, lighting, heating and water.
Do not forget about serious competition in this direction. You can save money by using high technology, which will also increase profits. To generate additional income, you can simultaneously grow exotic crops.
Why in a greenhouse?
- Only in closed ground can almost year-round flowering be achieved .
- In the greenhouse, chrysanthemums are protected from natural enemies: snails, caterpillars. In an open flowerbed, one caterpillar can destroy all the buds from a bush overnight.
- The quality and duration of chrysanthemum flowering depends on the length of daylight hours. In a greenhouse, lighting is easy to adjust .
- Large-flowered species used for cutting are sensitive to low temperatures and humidity. It is possible to obtain rare varieties in a greenhouse.
Features of watering greenhouse chrysanthemums
For faster growth, chrysanthemum needs good watering. This can be achieved using drip irrigation, especially if the plants are planted in beds. At the beginning of autumn, chrysanthemums should be watered before lunch, and closer to winter - early in the morning, so that the leaves have time to dry by night.
Since the humidity level in greenhouses is always high, to prevent diseases it is important to ventilate the room well after watering chrysanthemums.
Plant diseases. Their prevention and treatment
Chrysanthemum is a fairly hardy plant and is resistant to pests. Diseases are the result of improper care.
- The air temperature has been exceeded. Chrysanthemums love the sun, but heat above 25°C causes leaf burn.
- The watering schedule has been disrupted. If there is an excess of moisture, the roots begin to rot. Due to lack of water, the leaves turn yellow and the buds drop.
- Presence of pests.
- Aphid.
- Spider mite.
In order to get rid of such troubles, you can use the following plant treatment:
- Dilute a piece of laundry soap in 10 liters of warm water. Spray flowers once every ten days.
- Pass the head of garlic through a meat grinder, mix in 10 liters of water, leave for thirty minutes, strain. Spray chrysanthemums with this solution.
- You can wipe the leaves, but this is a rather labor-intensive process.
Treatment should be carried out on sick plants and healthy ones. The main enemy of chrysanthemums is the nematode. Infection of flowers is indicated by blackened lower leaves. Diseased plants should be burned. There is no use in fighting.
Chrysanthemum is a beautiful autumn flower. Growing it can bring pleasure, and when organizing a business, good profit.
Growing chrysanthemums.
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Anya V
writes: How do you cover them for the winter? Please tell us in more detail.
Anya V
writes: How do you cover them for the winter? Please tell us in more detail.
Anya V
writes: How do you cover them for the winter? Please tell us in more detail.
Anya V
writes: How do you cover them for the winter? Please tell us in more detail.
Indian chrysanthemums (a large species group with large flowers) and Korean chrysanthemums (with small flowers of various shapes and colors) bloom well in greenhouses. Large-flowered chrysanthemums have a tall, strong trunk and decorative inflorescences up to 18 cm in diameter. Achieve a height of 80 cm.
Chrysanthemum fertilizer
The first feeding of chrysanthemums is carried out 10 days after planting. During the period of active growth, chrysanthemum needs nitrogen fertilizers, and after the formation of inflorescences - potassium and phosphorus. Fertilizer should be applied at the root. In this case, the dosage must be strictly observed so as not to harm the plants. In addition, to prevent various diseases and control pests, chrysanthemums should be treated with complex preparations.
Video about propagation of greenhouse chrysanthemum by cuttings
Storage methods
There are two standard methods for wintering chrysanthemums - with or without digging them out of the ground. The first option, in turn, assumes the possibility of storing a bush extracted from the ground along with a lump of earth indoors (a cellar, glassed-in loggia or other cool, but not freezing place is suitable for this), or if suitable conditions at home cannot be created succeeds - digging the plant into the soil, but to a greater depth than it initially grew, thus providing the root system with a more gentle temperature during the wintering period.
Important! Most varieties of chrysanthemums can be left without shelter for the winter only in those regions where winter frosts do not fall below -7ºС.
If the gardener does not want to dig the bushes out of the ground for the winter, they can be left in their place, but provided with reliable shelter. When storing chrysanthemums outside the ground, everything is simple and clear. This method, although not very convenient due to the fact that not everyone who likes to grow decorative flowers on their site has at their disposal a fairly spacious cellar for wintering them, is nevertheless good because it allows you to control the condition of the bush at any time. moment to react if the plant begins to rot, mold or sprout. But leaving the bush in the ground under cover or re-burying the plant in deep layers of soil is worth considering in more detail.
Shelter
The thickness and reliability of the shelter directly depend on how low the temperature in the greenhouse drops. The composition of the soil also plays an important role here. For example, it has long been noted that heavy clay soils and loams freeze much less than light sandstone or sandstone. In order for the plant to endure winter more easily, there is no need to rush to cover it. It is best to prepare the bush for wintering after the onset of frost, when the top layer of the earth begins to freeze.
Did you know? After the chrysanthemum was brought to Japan by Buddhist monks from China many years ago, the flower immediately became a symbol of the country. It was depicted on the imperial seal, adorned the throne of the Japanese monarch, and to this day the Japanese dedicate a national festival to the chrysanthemum every year, and call it the “Festival of Happiness.”
Before sheltering, the above-ground part of the plant should be cut off, but not at the root, but leaving small “stumps”. Practice shows that very often it is from them that young shoots begin to grow in the spring. Some gardeners prefer to leave longer shoots, sometimes up to 20 cm, but by spring they still dry out and have to be removed.
For the shelter itself you can use:
- fallen leaves;
- coniferous branches;
- peat;
- sawdust;
- brushwood (an excellent option is the vine left after autumn pruning);
- compost;
- humus;
- garden soil, which is simply raked up to the bush from all sides.
Depending on the severity of the climate, the thickness of the shelter can vary between 30–50 cm. Coniferous branches are best suited as the top layer, since, on the one hand, they are quite heavy so that they are not blown away by the wind, and on the other hand, the structure of such an organic blanket perfectly holds snow on itself, and a snowdrift, as you know, is itself the best natural insulation.
Another advantage of pine needles is that, unlike peat, soil or compost, it ensures that there are many voids inside the shelter, inside which warm air is retained. The same effect can be achieved by covering the bush with a low box made of cardboard or polystyrene foam, and then filling it with available organic matter on top.
Did you know? It turns out that in the central regions of Russia and even more northern regions, the main reason for the death of plants in winter is not freezing at all, but the heating of the root collar, as well as damage to the roots by various types of mold fungi.
If fallen leaves, sawdust or other light material is used as a shelter, it is necessary to lay a layer of agrotex, lutrasil or other air-permeable material on top of the constructed hill (it is fundamentally important that the canvas is light, otherwise the bushes may become warm during a thaw) and secure the structure with pins or stones laid around the perimeter. In order to eliminate this possibility, you need to remove the cover with chrysanthemums in early spring, when the temperature is still negative.
In addition, it is very important not to allow the water formed in the place of the snowdrift covering the bush to stagnate in the roots of the plant in the form of a puddle. Spring dampness is much more dangerous for the root system of a flower than frost, so excess snow from the flowerbed, if it is located in a lowland, must be removed before it begins to melt.
Trench storage
This method of wintering chrysanthemums is more painstaking, but for regions with cold climates it is considered preferable as the most reliable. At the end of autumn, the bushes are pruned in the same way as with regular shelter, after which they should be carefully dug out of the ground, trying not to destroy the soil lump and not disturb the root system. Next, in the free space of the flowerbeds or beds, dig a trench 50–70 cm deep. The length and width of the trench depend on the number of bushes that need to be placed in it.
You will be interested in learning how to grow champignons in a greenhouse.
The dug bushes are placed at the bottom of the pit along with a lump of earth, trying to press them together as tightly as possible. All resulting voids are carefully filled with garden soil, but the trench itself is not filled up, but left until real frosts arrive. When sub-zero temperatures “grab” the bushes, you can safely cover them without fear that the buried plant will be affected by mold or other fungal infections. Having covered the trench with earth, a shelter is built on top according to the same principle as described above.
Prikop or wintering in a trench.
Planting large-flowered chrysanthemums. Propagation of chrysanthemums.
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writes: What variety of chrysanthemums is this?
Elena 8
writes: What a beauty!!! Please tell me what region you live in? Do chrysanthemums spend the winter in a greenhouse? Thank you. All the best to you.
Elena 8
writes: What variety of chrysanthemums is this?
Elena 8
writes: What a beauty!!! Please tell me what region you live in? Do chrysanthemums spend the winter in a greenhouse? Thank you. All the best to you.
To form a tall shoot and a large flower, most cut chrysanthemums after planting in the ground need to be grown for 4 weeks with 14 hours of daylight. The reduction in daylight hours and the period of feeding chrysanthemums in such conditions depend on their variety, usually from 6 to 12 weeks of growth.
For faster growth, chrysanthemum needs good watering. This can be achieved using drip irrigation, especially if the plants are planted in beds. At the beginning of autumn, chrysanthemums should be watered before lunch, and closer to winter - early in the morning, so that the leaves have time to dry by night.
Because the duration of the vegetative and generative phases of chrysanthemums depends on the length of the day, there is a relationship between the date of planting the cuttings and the date of flowering. Most cut varieties require 2-4 weeks of long-day growth after planting (more than 14.50 hours to establish the required number of leaves and internodes to ensure good foliage and shoot height, followed by 6-12 weeks of short-day growth (less than 13 hours), depending on the variety.
Chrysanthemums can grow in a wide range of temperatures from 10°C to 35°C. In summer and early autumn, in greenhouses with good ventilation, the temperature does not fall below 22-25°C, and in sunny hours it is at the level of 35.5-37°C. If the plants have a good supply of water, these temperatures do not interfere with the good growth and flowering of plants, although a lower temperature - 18-22 °C is more preferable. In autumn and winter, the air temperature should be 16-17°C at night, 22°C during the day in sunny weather, and 17-18°C in cloudy weather. During the flowering period, the temperature is maintained around the clock at 15-16°C, and as needed to preserve flowering plants in the standing - up to 12-13°C, and sometimes lower. Sunny weather, coupled with an air temperature in greenhouses of more than 18-20°C, accelerates flowering by 1-1.5 weeks, cloudy weather and low temperatures - up to 15°C and below, delay flowering. Therefore, for winter cultivation using the controlled flowering method, it is necessary to use greenhouses that guarantee the necessary thermal conditions in order to obtain products by the planned date.
The first feeding is carried out 15-20 days after planting, and then every 2 weeks: with ammonium nitrate (10-15 g/m?). From the moment the bud appears, the chrysanthemum’s need for phosphorus increases. In open ground, 2-3 feedings are given per season, in a greenhouse - up to 4-5, but the concentration of the nutrient solution is reduced. From the moment the buds form until cutting, they switch to phosphorus-potassium nutrition.
However, be careful, especially with fertilizing with nitrogen - its excess in the soil causes burns and blackening of the leaves, also leads to a decrease in immunity, provokes the appearance and rapid reproduction of aphids on overfed plants that are pampered and unable to resist. Feeding chrysanthemums is carried out simultaneously with watering or immediately after it. All feeding is stopped during the period of coloring of the buds!
The plant requires constant observation to form the largest flowers. It is necessary that each shoot contains only one flower; all other buds should be disposed of. Side shoots that grow in the axils of the leaves also need to be removed. It is important to leave exactly the bud that is guaranteed to produce a large flower.
Chrysanthemums are propagated by separating cuttings with 4-5 leaves. The ideal soil for cuttings will be a mixture of peat and sand. The shoots are planted in boxes in a greenhouse, the soil temperature should be from 16 to 18 degrees, and the air temperature should be 14-16 degrees. In such conditions, rooting of cuttings will occur in 2-3 weeks.
Careless, incorrect planting of even high-quality plants grown in open ground conditions leads to the loss of the decorative qualities of the plants: if planted too densely, the inflorescences turn out small, various diseases, mainly powdery mildew, spread greatly.
Varieties of the decorative and small-flowered chrysanthemum group are often sold as potted plants. Before transferring to greenhouses, such plants are transplanted into pots with a diameter of 15–17 cm. Plants grown in open ground conditions have a highly developed root system, so when transplanting into pots, the roots have to be partially cut off, which negatively affects the condition of the plants. After transplanting, the plants are watered heavily and, in order to slow down the evaporation of moisture, at first the pots are placed close to each other.
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Also on our website you can see information about the features of growing roses and tulips in a greenhouse.
Daylight regulation
As is the case with temperature conditions, regulating the length of daylight hours affects the flowering of chrysanthemums. These flowers are characterized by short daylight hours. When illumination is less than 14 hours, the receptacle is laid, and the greater the number of such days, the larger the diameter of the flower. The flowers themselves are laid during daylight hours lasting 13 hours or less.
To form a beautiful large flower, you need to leave the strongest shoot and remove the rest, including the side buds.
To form a tall shoot and a large flower, most cut chrysanthemums, after planting in the ground, must be grown for 4 weeks under 14-hour daylight hours. The reduction in daylight hours and the period for growing chrysanthemums in such conditions depend on their variety, usually from 6 to 12 weeks of growth.
In summer, greenhouses need to be protected from the sun with film, and in winter, additional lighting must be installed.
Types of chrysanthemums for greenhouses
Before you start growing flowers, it is worth getting acquainted with the types of flowers recommended for growing in greenhouses.
There are approximately 150 species of chrysanthemums in the world, and through the efforts of breeders, their varietal diversity is increasing every year. Cultivating chrysanthemums in greenhouses has some advantages.
- Optimum temperature and air humidity levels are ensured.
- Longer flowering time can be achieved.
- Plants are protected from natural pests.
- It is possible to organize conditions for growing rare varieties of chrysanthemums.
Chrysanthemums from the greenhouse
Beginner flower growers, in order to obtain maximum results, should give preference to zoned varieties that are easy to care for, such as:
- Indian chrysanthemums . They are distinguished by large single buds, with a diameter of up to 18 cm and a height of up to 80 cm.
- Korean chrysanthemums . Unpretentious in care, small in diameter, blooming profusely in the form of a bush up to 70 cm high.
Their main types are presented in the table:
- Lilac-pink.
- Cream.
- Golden yellow.
They can be completely white. The buds are flat with a diameter of approximately 14 cm.